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Pink Mosquito
Pink Mosquito
Crochet pattern by
About this toy
Size
25 cm (9.8 in) without ears
Skills required
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rounds, chain, slip stitch, single, half double and double
crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing of stitches.
How difficult
3. Intermediate
Contact me
If you have any questions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me via the email
(monoxa.handmade@gmail.com) or Facebook (@monoxatoys).
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Hi there
I am so-o-o GLAD that you have chosen me to be
your amigurumi crochet guide and decided to
create this cute Pink Mosquito with my help!
THANK YOU. It will be fun, I promise.
Let’s begin!
The plan
1) First, I will give you the list of ABBREVIATIONS, that I am going to use in this tutorial
and remind you of the most common TECHNIQUES.
2) After that, I will show you an INVISIBLE single crochet decrease method.
4) In the next block, I will provide you with the list of MATERIALS AND TOOLS needed
for the Pink Mosquito creation process.
6) After that, I will explain to you how to SHAPE the FACE of the toy. Finally, I will teach
you how to ASSEMBLE all the details together and share with you some of My TIPS.
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Abbreviations and Technology
ch =
chain stitch
sc =
single crochet
dc =
double crochet
inc = increase
Increases look like a
“slingshots” on a crocheted fabric, so it is easy to spot them. You going to need increases to
WIDEN your crochet detail. To increase one stitch, you have to simply work TWO stitches IN
ONE stitch.
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sc3tog – three single crochet stitches decreased to one
hdc3into1 – three half double crochet stitches crocheted into one stitch
dc3into1 – that is an increase made of 3 double crochet stitches (three double crochet
stitches are crocheted into one stitch)
NB! – an abbreviation for the Latin phrase nota bene, meaning “note well.” It is used to
emphasize an important point.
1) Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single crochet stitch. Do not yarn
over.
2) Insert the hook under the front loop of the second stitch and pick it up onto the
hook (it won’t be easy at first and it will take some time to get to use to this move,
but the result is absolutely worth it!). Yarn over.
3) Draw through the first two loops. Yarn over and draw through all loops.
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Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease! J
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Materials & Tools
1) YARN. I used DK weight (8 ply / 11 wpi) polyester yarn (100 g – 220 mt (3,5 Oz –
240 yards))
For decoration, I used thinner black cotton yarn (100 g – 250 mt (3.5 Oz – 273
yards)) – about 5 g (0.2 Oz)
3) Polyester FIBERFILL, wool, wadding etc. for STUFFING (about 80 g (2.8 Oz))
6) PVC glue
J That’s it with the boring staff! Yaho-o-o! Now I invite you to the world of magic stitches!
Our journey begins!
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Patterns
Fingers *8 details
Use pink yarn and 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Right hand
Proceed with pink yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.
Now you have to put three fingers together: forefinger + middle finger + third finger.
The thumb will be attached later, in a row 3.
1) Sc 4 among one edge of the forefinger, sc 4 among one edge of the middle finger, sc 8 among the edge of the
third finger, sc 4 among the other edge of the middle finger, sc 4 among the other edge of the forefinger (Pic 1)
(24)
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2) Sc 24
3) {Sc 4, dec} *4 (20)
Pic 1: Pic 2:
6) Sc 16
7) {Sc 2, dec} *4 (12)
8) Dec, sc 10 (11)
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Stuff the detail with the fiberfill but not too much: only 1/3 of the arm should be
stuffed.
Finish as an open piece, leave a long tail (about 40 cm (16 in)) to attach arm to the body.
Left hand
Proceed with thin black cotton yarn and 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Now you have to put three fingers together (the thumb will be attached later, in a
row 3)): forefinger + middle finger + third finger.
1) Sc 4 among one edge of the forefinger, sc 4 among one edge of the middle finger, sc 8 among the edge of the
third finger, sc 4 among the other edge of the middle finger, sc 4 among the other edge of the forefinger (24)
2) Sc 24
3) {Sc 4, dec} *4 (20)
4) {Sc 3, dec} *2, sc 4 together with the detail of a thumb, dec, sc 2, dec (16)
5) Sc 16
Stuff the detail with the pink thread of yarn.
6) Sc 16
7) {Sc 2, dec} *4 (12)
8) Dec, sc 10 (11)
Stuff the detail with the fiberfill but not too much: only 1/3 of the arm should be
stuffed.
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25) Dec, sc 9 (10)
Finish as an open piece, leave a long tail (about 40 cm (16 in)) to attach arm to the body.
Feet *2 details
Use pink yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.
0) Chain 2
1) Sc 8 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 8 (16)
3) {Sc 1, inc} *8 (24)
4) {Sc 3, inc} *6 (30)
5) {Sc 4, inc} *6 (36)
6) Dec, sc 34 (35)
7) Dec, sc 31, dec (33)
8) Dec, sc 31 (32)
9) Sc 15, Sc3together, sc 12, dec (29)
10) Dec, sc 27 (Pic 3) (28)
11) Sc 28
10
12) Sc 28
13) Dec, sc 26 (27)
14) Sc 27
15) Sc 27
16) Dec, sc 25 (26)
17) Sc 26
18) Dec, sc 24 (25)
19) Dec, sc 23 (24)
Stuff the detail.
20) Dec, sc 22 (Pic 4) (23)
Pic 3: Pic 4:
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26) Hdc 3, sc 3, hdc 4, hdc3tog, hdc 4, sc 3, hdc 3 (21)
27) Hdc2into1, dcinto1, Hdc2into1, hdc 4, (sc3tog) *2, leave the row unfinished (Pic 6)
Pic 5: Pic 6:
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Pull up the loop, cut the yarn, leaving a short tail.
Legs *2 details
Use pink yarn and 2.0 mm crochet hook.
Mark the 3 cm diameter circle with the thread of contrast yarn (Pic 7).
Pic 7: Pic 8:
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2) Sc 10, inc, sc 8, dec (21)
3) {Sc 1, dec} *7 (14)
Stuff the detail.
4) Dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 3 (11)
Finish as an open piece, leave a long tail (about 40 cm (16 in)) to attach leg to the body.
Shape the pointed tip of the forefoot the same way you did claws (with the help of PVC
glue).
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Head
Use pink yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.
0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) Sc 18
5) {Sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
6) Sc 24
7) {Sc 3, inc} *6 (30)
8) {Sc 4, inc} *6 (36)
9) Sc 36
10) {Sc 5, inc} *6 (42)
11) {Sc 6, inc} *6 (48)
12) Sc 48
13) {Sc 23, inc} *2 (50)
14) Sc 50
15) Sc 13, inc, sc 23, inc, sc 12 (52)
16) Sc 52
17) Sc 52
18) {Sc 25, inc} *2 (54)
19) Sc 54
20) Sc 54
21) Sc 54
22) Sc 14, inc, sc 25, inc, sc 13 (56)
23) Sc 56
24) Sc 14, dec, sc 25, dec, sc 13 (54)
25) Sc 54
26) Sc 54
27) Sc 54
28) {Sc 25, dec} *2 (52)
29) Sc 52
30) Sc 52
31) Sc 13, dec, sc 23, dec, sc 12 (50)
32) Sc 50
33) {Sc 23, dec} *2 (48)
15
34) Sc 48
Stuff the detail.
38) Sc 36
39) {Sc 4, dec} *6 (30)
40) Sc 30
Stuff the detail.
2) Insert the needle from the center and under the front loop only. Draw the yarn
through. Pick up all the remaining stitches the same way.
3) Grab the yarn and pull until the hole is tightly closed.
5) Exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip it right against
the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).
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Body
NB! Use DOUBLE pink yarn and 3.0 mm crochet hook.
This way the detail (especially important for the bottom of the body) will be thicker
and will better hold the shape.
0) Chain 2 Pic 9:
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (Pic 9) (12)
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {Sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
5) {Sc 3, inc} *6 (30)
6) {Sc 4, inc} *6 (36)
7) {Sc 5, inc} *6 (42)
8) {Sc 6, inc} *6 (48)
9) {Sc 7, inc} *6 (54)
10) {Sc 8, inc} *6 (60)
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14) {Sc 18, dec} *3 (57)
15) Sc 8, dec, {sc 17, dec} *2, sc 9 (54)
16) Sc 54
17) {Sc 16, dec} *3 (51)
18) Sc 51
19) {Sc 15, dec} *3 (48)
Stuff the detail.
20) Sc 48
21) Sc 7, dec, {sc 14, dec} *2, sc 7 (45)
22) {Sc 13, dec} *3 (42)
23) Sc 6, dec, {sc 12, dec} *2, sc 6 (39)
Stuff the detail.
Now, with the help of half double crochet stitches and slim stitches you will make an
inclined ending of the neck.
So that when you attach the head, it will be a little bit inclined forward.
I believe this way it looks cuter and more natural.
Finish as an open piece, leave a long tail (about 40 cm (16 in)) to attach body to the head.
Start to crochet in rows (turn after each row). Ch 1 – counts as a first stitch.
The second stitch is made into the 2nd stitch of the previous row
0) Chain 16
1) Sc 15
2) Ch 1 (counts as a first stitch), Sc 1 into the 2nd stitch, sc 13 (15)
3) Ch 1, dec, {sc 3, dec} *2, sc 2 (12)
4) Ch 1, sc 1, inc 3, sc 7 (15)
5) Dec, sc 5, {inc, sc 1} *3, sc 2 (17)
6) Ch 1, sc 16 (17)
7) Ch 1, {inc, sc 3} *3, inc, sc 3 (21)
8) Ch 1, sc 20 (21)
9) Ch 1, sc 20 (21)
10) Ch 1, sc 20 (21)
11) Ch 1, inc, sc 19 (22)
12) Ch 1, sc 21 (22)
13) Ch 1, sc 21 (22)
14) Ch 1, inc, sc 20 (23)
15) Ch 1, sc 22 (23)
16) Ch 1, sc 22 (23)
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17) Ch 1, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 10, inc (26)
18) Ch 1, sc 25 (26)
19) Ch 1, sc 25 (26)
20) Ch 1, sc 25 (26)
21) Ch 1, {dec, sc 6} *3, sc 1 (23)
22) Ch 1, sc 22 (23)
23) Ch 1, sc 22 (23)
24) Ch 1, dec, sc 20 (22)
25) Ch 1, sc 21 (22)
26) Ch 1, sc 21 (22)
27) Ch 1, dec, sc 18, leave one stitch unworked (20)
28) Ch 1, sc 19 (20)
29) Ch 1, sc 19 (20)
30) Ch 1, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 6, dec, leave one stitch unworked (16)
31) Ch 1, sc 15 (16)
32) Ch 1, sc 15 (16)
33) Ch 1, sc 6, dec, sc 7 (15)
34) Ch 1, sc 14 (15)
35) Ch 1, sc 14 (15) Pic 10:
36) Ch 1, dec, sc 9, dec, leave one stitch unworked
(12)
37) Ch 1, sc 11 (12)
38) Ch 1, dec, sc 8, leave one stitch unworked (10)
39) Ch 1, dec, sc 7 (9)
40) Ch 1, dec, sc 6 (8)
41) Ch 1, dec, sc 5 (7)
42) Ch 1, dec, sc 4 (6)
43) Ch 1, dec, sc 3 (5)
44) Ch 1, dec, sc 2 (4)
45) Ch 1, dec, leave one stitch unworked (2)
46) Ch 1 (Pic 10)
Right ear:
Now you are going to crochet over the edge of the detail, starting from the RIGHT
side (anti-clockwise):
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47) Sc 23, inc 4, sc 18, sc 3 into the corner (Pic 11), sc 14, sc 3 into the corner (Pic 12), sc 43 (Pic 13) (112)
Finish as an open piece, leave a tail (about 60 cm (24 in)) to shape the ear and attach it to the head.
Pic 13:
Left ear:
Turn the work to the other side!
Crochet over the edge of the detail, starting from the RIGHT side (anti-clockwise):
47) Sc 43, sc 3 into the corner, sc 14, sc 3 into the corner, sc 18, inc 4, sc 23 (112)
Finish as an open piece, leave a tail (about 60 cm (24 in)) to shape the ear and attach it to the head.
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Inner parts of the ears *2 details
Use blue yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.
0) Chain 5
1) Dс 7 into the 3nd stitch, skip 1 stitch, sl.st 1 into the last stitch (8)
2) Ch 2, dc 1 into the 1nd stitch, (dc2into1) *6, dc 1 (15)
3) Ch 2, dc 2 into the 2nd stitch, dc 1, {dc2into1, dc 1} *5, dc2into1, leave 1 stitch unworked (21)
4) Ch 2, sc 1, sl st 17, sc 1, hdc 1 (Pic 14) (21)
Now you are going to crochet over the edge of the detail, starting from the LEFT side
(anti-clockwise):
5) sc 3 under the dc (Pic 15), inc 3, sc 1, inc 3, sc 3 under the last dc (Pic 16)
Finish as an open piece, leave a tail (about 15 cm (6 in)) to shape the ear and attach it to the head.
Smile
Use blue yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.
0) Ch 44
1) Sc 5, hdc 16, hdc2together, hdc 15, sc 4, inc (43)
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How to change the color
My TIP is that you change color in the end of previous stitch. That means, that you start the
last stitch (of the old color) as usual, but for the final loop, which you pull through, you are
already using a new color.
So, the last stitch of row 1) you start with blue color, but finish the last loop already with the
white color.
Pic 19:
4) Ch 1, sc 1 into the 2nd stitch, sc 2, hdc 8, hdc2tog, hdc 12, hdc2tog, hdc 8, sc 2 (Pic 20),
extra stitch: sc 1 into the ch 1 of the 2nd row (Pic 21), turn (Pic 22) (37)
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Pic 20: Pic 21:
Pic 22:
Finish as an open piece (see description below), leave a long tail (about 40 cm (16 in)) to attach smile to the head.
1) Make a slip stitch to the next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving about 40 cm (16 in) long tail
(you will use it later to sew detail together). Draw the yarn tail through the loop.
2) Insert the hook through the next stitch from FRONT to BACK and draw the yarn tail
through.
3) Insert the hook through the next stitch from BACK to FRONT and draw the yarn tail
through.
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My TIP: See below ANOTHER METHOD, how to finish an open piece in a way that you
cannot spot the ending of the row (it is especially important for such parts as eyes, pupils
and spots on the body, where you definitely need an even edge).
1) Pull the tail under the both loops of the first stitch of the previous row
2) Pull the tail back, under the FRONT loop of the last stitch of the row
Eyes*2 details
Use yellow yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.
0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12 )
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {Sc 8, inc} *2 (20)
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Now you can insert safety eyes between the 1st and the 2nd row (so that they are
located not exactly in the middle of the yellow part, but a little bit closer towards the
upper part)
J The half of the work is done and all the details of the toy are ready!
Yeh-o-o-o! Congratulations! Now you just have to assemble them all together and you Pink
Mosquito will come to life!
P.S. No, there is no crochet pattern for the mosquito nose and wings… Because we all know,
that real Pink Mosquito does not have them J
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Assembling
The whipstitch is best for joining crocheted rows.
You join the crochet pieces by whip stitching the row-end (BOTH LOOPS) of open piece ->
to the single crochet stitches (that go directly UNDER) of a closed piece.
NB! Mark the center of the body with the contrast thread of yarn.
2) Sew the edge the folded part to the main part of the ear with the thread of pink
yarn (Pic 24).
3) Stuff this hollow part of the ear with the pink yarn (it will add more density, than
fiberfill and the ear will hold the shape better).
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4) Sew the inner part of the ear to the main part.
28
How to shape the feet
1) With the thread of black yarn make tightening stitches on one foot (they will help to
make it flatter and will add a cute clumsy look).
29
How to shape the hands
1) Make the fold on the inner side of the arm: unite 8th and 10th row of the arm with
4-5 stitches. This fold will help to make hands crooked.
30
How to shape the head
Tightening stitches – is a technique that allows to shape EYEHOLES of the toy, giving the
face alive-looking impression.
I prefer to make shaping stitches using the thick nylon thread, because it is very durable
and doesn’t lengthen out.
2) Find the right placement of the neck (it should be in the middle of the bottom of
the head).
My TIP:
Find something circular that is roughly the same width as the openings of the
neck, coin for example (diameter should be about 2,5 cm), and mark this circle
with the thread of yarn of contrast color.
3) Mark the central line of the head with the thread of contrast yarn (yellow line
on the picture below).
4) Find the right places for the tightening stitches. I suggest those points are located
18 rows from the both sides and 3 single crochet stitches to the front from the
central line.
Mark those points with sewing pins.
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View from above: Front view:
5) Fasten nylon thread on the bottom of the head in the middle of the marked area
(Pic 25).
6) Bring the long needle to the left point marked with the pin (Pic 26).
7) Make a short stitch and bring the needle back to the bottom of the head.
8) Grab the thread and tug gently, pulling the tightening stitch in (Pic 27).
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9) Secure the thread with a double knot.
10) Repeat the same procedure with the right point.
Try to make the tension equal on the both sides (Pic 28).
1) Mark the central line of the body with the thread of contrast yarn (see the picture
below).
Mark the center of the bottom of the body as well (see the picture below).
2) My TIP:
Find something circular that is roughly the same width as the openings of the legs,
coin for example (diameter will be about 2,2 cm), and mark these circles with
the thread of yarn of contrast color.
33
3) Place openings of the legs exactly on the marked area and attach them with
sewing pins (NB! Check the position of forefeet at this point – they should be
directed to the sides! Soles of the feet should be located on one line, that is
parallel to the central line of the head).
5) When there are 2-3 whip stitches left to the end, remove the contrast thread
of the yarn, and stuff the leg. Complete attaching.
6) Secure the last stitch with a knot. Use your yarn needle to hide the tail inside your
work, then exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip
it right against the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).
34
How to sew neck to the head
1) Mark the center of the body with the thread of contrast yarn.
2) Place openings of the neck on the area marked in the step, when you shaped
the head. Attach it with sewing pins.
3) Whip stitch the pieces together: Go down through BOTH LOOPS of the stitch
of the last row of the leg and bring the needle back directly UNDER the next
stitch, grabbing 3-4 mm of crocheted fabric BEHIND the marked area of the
body with it. NB! Draw the yarn very tight after every stitch!
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3) When there are 2-3 whip stitches left to the end, remove the contrast thread
of the yarn. Complete attaching.
4) Secure the last stitch with a knot. Use your yarn needle to hide the tail inside your
work, then exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip
it right against the head (the tail should disappear inside the head).
1) Fasten nylon thread on the bottom of the head in the left marked point (Pic 29).
2) Bring the long needle to the top of the head into the left marked point (Pic 30).
3) Make a short stitch and bring the needle back to the bottom of the head.
4) Grab the thread and tug gently, pulling the tightening stitch in.
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5) Secure the thread with a double knot.
Pic 31:
1) Make 17 vertical stitches with black thread of yarn across the white area of the
smile.
Those stiches do not have to be very neat: you a making a monster, so he has to
be a little bit crooked.
37
2) Make 17 horizontal black stitches, joining each two neighbor vertical stitches.
38
How to sew smile to the head
Sew the SMILE to the head as it is shown in the picture below.
39
How to sew ears to the head
1) Find the right placement of the ears.
2) My TIP:
Find something circular that is roughly the same width as the openings of the ears
(diameter is about 2,5 cm).
40
3) Whip stitch ears to the head.
4) When there are 2-3 whip stitches left to the end, remove the contrast thread
of the yarn, and stuff the ears. Make sure, that you stuff the ears really well,
so they hold the shape!
5) Complete attaching.
6) Secure the last stitch with a knot. Use your yarn needle to hide the tail inside your
work, then exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip
it right against the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).
41
J That is IT! You made it! Your Pink Mosquito is alive and it’s the most precious toy in the
world!
If you have any questions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me on Facebook –
@monoxatoys or via email monoxa.handmade@gmail.com
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