Professional Documents
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HD JL Eyebrow Manual
HD JL Eyebrow Manual
Colorimetry chart
Aftercare
For me, as an eyebrow designer, it is very important that all artists of this art such as
makeup, HD/4K eyebrows, micropigmentation etc, understand the importance of
respecting people's faces and not transforming them. When a make-up is done, it is
not to make a transformation, it is to highlight what nature in its wisdom provided us
with. So, why do we seem to be in a competition where we fight to be the one who
puts the most eyelashes? Who makes the lips thicker? Who makes the thickest
eyebrow or who contours the most? We are not on RuPaul's Drag Race and I think
it's important to always keep in mind that we should not transform our customers.
When you receive clients the first thing you must explain is, you are not going to do
an eyebrow design that you want, much less what they ask me to do. As
professionals we must design what in your opinion looks good, we must always be
based on your bone structure, in the proportions of your face and our guide will
always be the eyes. They say that the eyes are the windows to our soul, and now
the eyebrows are the frame of those windows.
We always talk about the morphology of the face, but do we really know what this
means? Morphology is the discipline that studies shapes. We talk about different
face types (face shapes) to do a job and this is useful when doing a haircut, doing
makeup, even when accessorizing, but is it really necessary for an eyebrow design?
No.
Our bone structure is the guide to create the eyebrow, for this reason we should not
worry about the type of face we have in front of us. Many times as consumers we
don't know it or perhaps as makeup artists, micropigmenters, stylists, we may see
one in one way and another colleague sees it differently. Let's play it safe and use
our bones to guide us.
The eyebrow should grow above the eye socket. It has even happened to us that we
make the eyebrow too high. Why do we make this mistake? This is because we run
our finger or brush gliding it across the temple. The base of the eyebrow begins just
where the frontal bone begins. So, in terms of makeup, if we use morphology to
make the contours, but rely on our bones for the brow, we will get superior balance
and harmony.
How to know your Face type
We have heard a lot about the shape of the face; whether it is square, round, heart-
shaped? But what does this mean? Or rather, what is the point of finding a shape for
our face? Well, in the world of beauty this is very important, since knowing what type
of face we have, we can take better advantage of our features.
When it comes to make-up, haircuts, hairstyles or accessories, knowing what type of
face you have will help you look your best and find a balance between the shape
you have and what you adorn around it. If you still don't know what your face type is,
then I invite you to take out pen and paper and write down the following simple
steps. Ready to know your face shape?
Materials:
Pencil or pen
A blank sheet of paper at least letter size
Mirror
Ruler or tape measure.
Step by step:
We are going to place ourselves in front of the mirror so that our face is straight and
looking straight ahead.
Next, we will begin to measure different points of our face to represent them on the
sheet of paper, so I advise you to place yourself in a place where you can look at
yourself with enough light and with the accessibility to draw lines.
First, let's measure the length of our face. This is from the hairline to the chin,
passing through the nose, i.e., splitting the face in half vertically.
This line should also be represented vertically in the middle of the sheet.
Subsequently we are going to take measurements horizontally. Remember that if
you use a tape you have to place it as straight as possible, do not follow the contour
of your face but keep it firm as if it were a ruler.
Now measure the width from temple to temple and draw the line at the top of the
sheet, making a perpendicular with the first vertical line. This will form a T. We
continue with the measurement of the eye line. Position yourself where the hair
starts to grow and pass over the eyes until you reach the other end; you will draw
this line about 4 cm below the first horizontal line. Next, we are going to
take the measurement that goes from cheekbone to cheekbone at approximately the
height of the ears and we are going to place it again about 4 cm below the second
horizontal line.
Finally, measure the length of your face at the level of the jaw, just where the bone
begins to slope toward the chin, and bring it under the third line.
With the same ruler join the corners of each line and you will see how the resulting
shape will resemble a figure like a heart, oval, diamond, circle, etc., which are the
most common shapes of faces, so identify yours and that's it.
My result was an oval face and yours?
Face Shapes:
-Oval
-Rectangular
-Redondo
-Square
-Heart
-Triangular
-Diamond or
Inverted
Eyebrow Design
according to your Face Triangle
Type
An eyebrow design will make or break your HD/4K eyebrow application and your client's
entire makeup look.
We will discuss morphology, bone structure, different techniques for eyebrow design,
recommended products and tools for eyebrow design.
• Round: sharp, angular eyebrows will compensate for the roundness of the cut of the
eyebrows.
face (the beak is quite noticeable).
• Square: eyebrows with an angle, but less marked than in the previous case, will soften the
volumes of this type of face.
• Elongated: almost flat eyebrows with a small drop at the outer end will compensate for the
verticality of this type of face.
• Heart (wide forehead and thin chin): it is best for angular eyebrows, contrasting with the
width of the forehead, but not as pronounced as in the first case. Here the shape trend
should be more rounded.
TYPES OF EYEBROWS
ACCORDING TO THE TYPE OF CAR
The Eyebrows
The success or total failure of a look is based on something essential: the eyebrow.
It is so important for the face, and many times we don't give it the time and relevance
it needs. In the eagerness to look for the perfect eyebrow or to follow trends, we fail
to take into account the most important thing, which is not so much the morphology
of the face or makeup techniques, but the bone structure.
We've all probably reminisced about old times by looking at pictures from the 80's or
90's and laughing at the thin eyebrow we had. I even remember that I had
classmates in school who were traumatized for being "uni-browed" and who suffered
from the jokes that others made to them for having such bushy eyebrows, since at
that time the trend was to wear thin eyebrows. Who would have thought that today
bushy eyebrows are the most enviable and how many women have regretted
removing eyebrow hairs. Something important to know is that our eyebrows never
grow back as they were originally born, information that we must also communicate
to our clients.
Over the years eyebrow trends have been very different, today the trend is related to
very thick and bushy eyebrows. But while it is true that fashions change and trends
always seek to innovate, I repeat, and I will do so constantly throughout this article,
we will not always be able to follow fashions! Just as some people look bad with thin
eyebrows, some people can look bad with eyebrows that are too thick.
Beyond being guided by trends, we must consider the measurements of our face, in
order to achieve the perfect, ideal and personalized look for each of our clients. To
make our clients beautiful we must respect the mathematics we have in our face. In
1175 a mathematician named Fibonacci was born in Italy. Years after his birth he
would be remembered as the most talented mathematician of the Middle Ages. This
genius discovered a sequence of numbers and patterns that can be found
throughout nature, measurements so perfect that he made mathematics an art.
These same proportions are found throughout our body.
5 On the temple bone place a pencil with a sharp point and slide it downwards, this
will mark a point of intersection with the middle line, the one you crossed with the
iris.
6 Mark the base of the eyebrow, locating exactly the eye bone, so that it does not
sink into the eyelid, and not too high either.
7 Mark the thickness starting from the base, about one centimeter upwards.
8 Once you have all these crosses, join the points as shown in the image. The
result should look something similar to the following.
Eyebrow correction
When correcting the eyebrows we will always observe three points:
1. Looking straight on from the outside of the iris is the measurement of point B.
2. The eyebrow is divided into three points: Start (A) center (B) and end (C).
Form Corrections
Types of eyebrows and how to pluck them:
1. Thick: We will wax the lower and upper part trying to arch the ideal shape of the
points A, B and C.
2. Fine: With the help of a pencil, simulate the natural line on the eyebrow to give
greater thickness to the inner part of the beginning (point A) and height at the top
(point B).
3. Straight: Lower point A, raise point B and structure the eyebrow with eyeliner
and fine brush.
4. Arched: Depilate the highest part and fill in with the help of a brush the area
that has been depilated.
5. Short: Lengthen with the help of an eye-liner and a fine brush the outer edges.
6. Long: Always pluck on the outer edges of the eyebrow, never on the bridge that
joins the two eyebrows unless they are close together.
2. For point 2 we place the thread in the position of the line 02 of the image the
thread passes next to the corner of our nose and to the end of the iris of the
person arriving until the highest part of our eyebrow and there we mark with
the thread after we place the thread as it shows the first black horizontal line
and in a straight form we mark the highest points of the eyebrow and where
this line makes intersection with the one that we trace later 02 we fix point 2
of our eyebrow.We place the thread as shown in the first black horizontal
line and in a straight way we mark the highest points of the eyebrow and
where this line intersects with the one we drew later 02 we fix the point 2 of
our eyebrow.
3. For point number 3 we place the thread in the position of the line 03 passing
through the corner of the eye and that is where we will mark how far our
eyebrow will reach, to define point 3 it is approximately 2.5 of distance from
the corner of the eye to the tail of the eyebrow.
4. For our point number 4 we follow step 1 but we base it on the last black
horizontal line and where it intersects line 01 we mark point 4.
6. Finally we will join all the stitches and we will have a perfect eyebrow.
Eyebrow
measurements
Mapping
Our work area
Our furniture is:
• Side table
• Reclining armchair
• Bank/banking
• Preferably with LED light
Our work tools:
• Fields
• Nitrile gloves
• Mouthpieces
• HD eyebrow kit (pigments, keratin, wooden stick, brush, osmotic plastic, etc.)
depending on the brand is the material you get.
• Vernier/ruler
• Thread
• Black or brown wax marker
• Profiler
• Cotonetes
• Microbrush
• Wet wipes
• Pads
• Cream
• A container with water
• Protective lenses with magnification if you need them
• Scissors for trimming eyebrow hairs
• Disposable cap
• Eyelash brushes
Remember that the way we present ourselves for work must be impeccable, neat
and neatly dressed, nails short and clean, hair preferably tied back.
Hygiene and skin preparation.
The skin must be properly prepared to achieve a better adhesion of the pigment /
henna on the skin.
They work on 4 types of skin.
• Combination skin:
Combination skin is, as the name
suggests, skin that consists of a
mixture of skin types.
The type of skin is an important factor in the duration of the pigment, since the
effect ranges from 5 to 10 days for normal skin, 5 to 12 days for dry skin and 3 to 6
days for oily skin.
SKIN TYPES
Eyebrow preparation
The materials required are as follows:
• Samphoo
• Wet wipes
• Hand towel
• Pads
• Water
• Eyebrow brush
Apply the shampoo and/or makeup remover on the eyebrows of our client, lightly
clean the area and remove it with pads and water, wipe the area with a damp towel
to verify that there are no traces of makeup or dirt particles, dry the area perfectly
with a hand towel and brush the eyebrows.
Once these steps are completed, we have the skin and hairs of our client ready to
start with the eyebrow design.
Complete procedure for a
4K OR HD CELLS
1. DESIGN
2. DEPILATION
3. REDIRECTION
4. PIGMENTATION
Once we have our skin and eyebrows ready, we will start the CEJAS HD 4K
procedure.
Step 1. We design the eyebrow of our client, (designing eyebrows with thread).
Step 2. We pluck the eyebrow of our client, you can use any of the methods
explained above to perform the eyebrow waxing of your client.
Once you have the reference points that will define the shape of your eyebrow, you
can start trimming the hairs and remove the excess. To trim longer hairs comb your
eyebrow upwards with a brush (eyebrow brush, toothbrush or mascara brush) and
trim the hairs with scissors or a razor to remove any protruding hairs. These long
hairs should never be removed with tweezers as this would leave small bald spots
that would spoil the appearance of the eyebrow.
Next, use tweezers to give your eyebrow the ideal look, taking into account its
original shape and your face type. After a first review in which you remove the most
obvious and annoying hairs in sight, step away from the mirror to check the effect
and see if you need to remove any more to give shape. After shaping, you will only
have to remove the hairs that protrude more obviously from the imaginary outline.
Note that, in general, the eyebrow is usually thicker in the first half (up to the
highest point) and slightly thinner in the final half. If you are in doubt about the
thickness, think that it is preferable that you fall short in plucking than that you
overdo it and leave too thin eyebrows that get lost in the distance (think Jennifer
Lopez's!).
Once we have designed and plucked our eyebrow, we proceed to the redirection.
Before starting we ask our client if she has ever had an eyebrow service and how
long ago it was performed, since HD eyebrows cannot be performed if she has had
ironing done within 28 days before, if she has any lesion or irritation on her skin, if
she suffers from dermatitis átopica.
Keratin and redirection.
What is Keratin? Its main function is to deeply moisturize and eliminate frizz, in our
eyebrows it helps to redirect the hairs with the help of a neutralizer and to keep it
smooth and in a certain position in a short period of time, the Keratin acts on the
cuticle of the hairs thickening them up to 30% more, at the same time it facilitates to
give shape and direction.
Step 3. Redirection.
Comb the eyebrow hairs upwards, place the product with a toothpick to redirect the
hairs and leave for 10 minutes of pose, if the hairs are very thick or Chinese you
can leave the product for 15 minutes of pose, if you like you can place osmotic
plastic over the eyebrows, at the end of the pose time clean with pad and water.
Step 4. Neutralizer
Once you have removed the product for redirection and cleaned the area well with
pad and water, comb the hairs in the direction in which they naturally grow and
apply the neutralizer with a toothpick.The pose time is 5 minutes less than the time
you placed the first product if for example your pose time of the first product was 15
minutes the neutralizer you leave it for 10 minutes, you can also place osmotic
plastic if you wish and at the end of the pose time you remove the product with pad
and water.
Step 5 Keratin
Apply Keratin on the hair with a clean stick and leave it on for 5 minutes, then
remove the product with a pad and water.
Colorimetry Chart
□
1
10 LIGHTER BLOND PALE YELLOW
VERY LIGHT
9 BLOND
YELLOW
Violet ■
3
8 CLEAR RUBY YELLOW/ORANGE
Blue/Violet ■
2mn-
7 RUBIO ORANGE
■
6 DARK BLOND RED/ORANGE
Blue/Green
■ ■■
4
LIGHT BROWN
BROWN
RED
RED/ VIOLET n
■
■■
I YellowGreen
■■■
1 BLACK BLUE
Aftercare
Avoid any heat and humidity treatment within 24 hours.
Avoid washing the area within 24 hours
Do not use make-up remover on the area within 48 hours.
Avoid sunbathing for 24 hours
Do not scrub the area too hard when bathing or washing the face.
1. Leave the product on the eyebrows longer, at least 45 minutes, some studies
recommend that the ideal is to leave it on for 2 hours and remove it afterwards, but
that depends a lot on you and your clients since many of them will not want to leave
your studio with the eyebrows still with pigment, but the longer the pigment is on the
skin the more intense the color will be and the longer it will last.The longer time the
pigment remains on the skin will help the color to be seen with more intensity and it
will last longer.
2. Try not to wash your eyebrows too much, remember that it will wash away with
the water and not melt and stain your skin hehe NO!!!! The color fades until it
disappears, so the ideal is not to wash them so much.
3. Do not apply makeup while the product is on the eyebrows, I don't see the need
if they are pigmented, besides, applying makeup will cause them to need to remove
makeup so they will do it with greasy products, creams, oils, etc. These products
will remove the natural color quickly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do HD/4K eyebrows last?
HD/4K eyebrows last from 3 to 15 days depending on the brand of pigment you
use. It depends on the type of skin, for example, if it is oily skin, it will not last long
because the oil will eliminate it quickly.
How often is it done? at least once a month, excellent if they did it twice a month.
Can HD/4K eyebrow treatment be performed if the client has no hair?
Yes, it is possible since the pigment also pigments the skin.
What is the difference between HD eyebrows and Microblading? In the HD
eyebrows we only pigment the hairs and the skin of our client, the method is not
invasive and these eyebrows will only last for a period of 3 to 15 days, the
microblading is an invasive procedure in the skin where by means of an inductor we
introduce the pigment in the skin of our client which will have an effect within the
skin of our client.Microblading is an invasive procedure in the skin where by means
of an inductor we introduce the pigment in the skin of our client which will have an
effect inside the skin from a year to a year and a half depending on the ph of our
client.
How long does the HD Eyebrow procedure take? The procedure takes
approximately 30 to 60 minutes, the time will depend a lot on your ability to design
the perfect eyebrows for your client, since of all the steps for HD eyebrows in my
opinion it is the most time consuming step.