Cblmpeste

PARTS OF A COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL PACKAGE
References/Further Reading
Performance Criteria Checklist
Operation/Task/Job Sheet
Self Check Answer Key
Self Check
Information Sheet
Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome Summary
Module
Module Content
Content
Module
List of Competencies
Content
Module Content
Module Content
Front Page
In our efforts to standardize CBLM, the above
parts are recommended for use in Competency
Based Training (CBT) in Technical Education and
Skills Development Authority (TESDA)
Technology Institutions. The next sections will
show you the components and features of each
part.
Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Production NCII October 2021 Issued by:
Compost and Page 1 of 69
Harvest Fertilizer Compiled by: MTDF
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(Qualification Title)
COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
List of Competencies
No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code
Raise Organic Chicken Raising Organic Chicken AGR612301

1.
Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611306

2. Vegetables Vegetables
Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611301

3. Fertilizer Fertilizer
Produce Various Producing Various AGR611302

4. Concoctions Concoctions

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MODULE CONTENT
UNIT OF COMPETENCY: Produce Organic Fertilizer
MODULE TITLE : Producing Organic Fertilizer
MODULE DESCRIPTOR: This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitude
required to prepare composting area, prepare raw materials, carry out composting
process, and harvest compost.
NOMINAL DURATION: 21 Hours
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
Upon completion of this module, the students/trainees will be able to:
1. Prepare composting area and raw materials;
2. Compost and harvest fertilizer.
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1.1 Site is selected based on compost fertilizer production requirements and
1.2 Site lay-out is prepared base on location.
1.3 Bed is prepared based in accordance with production requirements.
1.4 Materials are gather based on production requirements and PNS for organic
fertilizer.
1.5 Prepare raw materials following enterprise procedure and PNS for organic
fertilizer.
2.1 Appropriate composting methods are applied based on production
requirements.
2.2 Compost is monitored based on PNS indicators of fully decomposed fertilizer.
2.3 Quality of harvest is checked based on PNS indicators of fully decomposed
fertilizer.
2.4 Processing of compost fertilizer are carried-out based on production
requirement.
2.5 Record keeping is performed according to enterprise procedure.

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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 2
Compost and Harvest Fertilizer
Contents:
1. PNS for organic and mineral fertilizer

2. Factors affecting decomposition process
3. Methods and procedures of composting
 Rapid composting methods
 Double dug composting
 Six month composting
 Substrate composting
4. Factors to be monitored during decomposition
 Moisture
 Temperature
5. Proper use and handling of Moisture Meter
6. Process of compost fertilizer
7. Moisture and temperature interpretation
Assessment Criteria
1. Appropriate composting methods are applied based on production

requirements.
2. Compost is monitored based PNS indicators of fully decomposed fertilizer.
3. Quality of harvest is checked based on PNS indicators of fully decomposed
fertilizer.
4. Processing of decomposed fertilizer are carried-out based on production
requirement.
5. Record keeping is performed according to enterprise procedure.
Conditions
The participants will have access to:
1. Tools and materials:
* Moisture meter * Trichoderma * African night crawler

* Spading fork * Concoctions * Siever
* Shovel * Knapsack Sprayer
* Big Pail * Indigenous Micro-Organism (IMO)
* PPEs * Prepared materials for composting

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2. Learning materials:
* PNS for organic and mineral fertilizer
* Hand-outs and videos for composting methods
3. Training equipments:
* Computer
* LCD
Assessment Method:
1. Demonstration with oral questioning

2. Written exam

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Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome 2
Compost and Harvest Fertilizer
Learning Activities Special Instructions

Listen to your trainer’s discussion on
composting method in information
sheet 3.2-1
After reading the information sheet,
Answer Self-check 3.2-1 you must answer self-check then
compare your answer to the answer
Listen to your trainer’s discussion on key. If you get 80% you can proceed to
processing of compost fertilizer in the next task, but if you failed, review
information sheet 3.2-2 the the information sheet to fully
understand the entire topic.
Answer self-check 3.2-2
Perform Job sheet 3.2-1 Observe your trainer performing the

Job sheet 3.2-1 and evaluate your
work using the performance criteria
checklist. When you are ready,
present your work to your trainer for
final evaluation and recording.
Listen to your trainer’s discussion on
record keeping and documentation of After reading the information sheet,
all operation in information sheet 3.2-3 you must answer self-check then
Answer Self Check 3.2-3 compare your answer to the answer

key. If you get 80% you can proceed to
the next task, but if you failed, review
the the information sheet to fully
Listen to your trainer’s discussion on understand the entire topic.
harvesting and storing of organic
fertilizer in information sheet 3.2-4
Answer Self Check 3.2-4
Perform Task Sheet 3.2-1 Observe your trainer performing the

Task sheet 3.2-1 and evaluate your
work using the performance criteria
checklist. When you are ready,
present your work to your trainer for

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final evaluation and recording.
Listen to your trainer’s discussion on After reading the information sheet,
PNS guidelines on Organic Fertilizer in you must answer self-check then
Information Sheet 3.2-5. compare your answer to the answer
key. If you get 80% you can proceed to
the next task, but if you failed, review
the the information sheet to fully
understand the entire topic.
Answer Self Check 3.2-5

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Information Sheet 2.2-1
Appropriate composting methods are applied based on production
requirements.
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Identify different composting methods.
2. Enumerate the benefits of using compost to agriculture.
WHAT IS COMPOSTING? Composting is the biological decomposition of

organic materials by microorganisms under controlled, aerobic conditions to a
relatively stable humus-like material called compost. Composting can happen in
many different ways using a variety of materials, methods, equipment, and scales
of operation. For agricultural operations the common materials or feedstocks that
are composted are livestock manures and bedding and various residual plant
materials (straw, culls, on-farm processing wastes, etc).
Traditionally some farmers allowed manure to pile up and it decomposed
until they were ready to use it. Some have referred to this as composting.
Composting is much more than just aging manure — it is a science. The
decomposition occurs in a well-managed process to obtain specific positive results
a valuable product with a minimum of negative environmental impacts.
WHY COMPOST? The nutrient content of compost will be quite different
from the manure and other feedstock that go into the mix. As water evaporates,
the carbon breaks down and is lost as carbon dioxide, the compost volume
decreases and the phosphorous and most other nutrients become more
concentrated. Some nitrogen will be lost during composting and some will convert
from readily available forms (nitrate and ammonia) to more stable organic forms
that are slowly released to crops. It has been estimated that less than 15% of the
nitrogen in compost (that has been applied to the soil) will be released in the first
crop year compared to 50–60% for uncomposted dairy manure. The nutrient value
of compost can be highly variable depending on the materials being composted
and the composting system used.

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The finished volume of the compost is frequently 40– 60% of the original
compost feedstock volume. The compost process reduces the volume to be
handled and transported to the field utilization site. It also concentrates many of
the nutrients in the compost material compared to their concentrations in the
original materials. Well-managed compost reduces odours and runoff moisture to
reduce potential environmental hazards.
RAPID COMPOSTING METHOD

Composting is a process in which organic substances are reduced from large
volumes of rapidly decomposable materials to small volumes of materials which
continue to decompose slowly. in this process, the ratio of carbon to other
elements is brought into balance, thus avoiding temporary immobilization of
nutrients. One of the many benefits of adding compost to the soil is that the
nutrients in it are slowly released to the soil and are then available for use by
plants. Decomposition will take place in soil if undecomposed organic materials
are added to it, but in the breakdown process nutrients will be tied up and
unavailable for plants to use. This may result in nutrient deficiencies and poor
growth, especially if large amounts of material are added.
The old method of composting was to pile organic materials and let them stand for
a year, at which time the materials would be ready for use. The main advantage of
this method is that little working time or effort is required from the composter.
Disadvantages are that space is utilized for a whole year, some nutrients might be
leached due to exposure to rainfall, and disease producing organisms, some
weeds, weed seeds and insects are not controlled.
Recently, a new method has been developed which corrects some of the problems
associated with the old type of composting. With this process, compost can be
made in 2 to 3 weeks.
Extra effort on the part of the composter is required in exchange for this time
saving, but for those who want large amounts of compost, or for those who wish to
convert materials which are usually wasted into useable compost, the effort is
worthwhile.
There are several important factors essential to the rapid composting method.
Because all are important, there is no significance to the order in which they are
listed here.
1. Material will compost best if it is between 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches in size. Soft,
succulent tissues need not be chopped in very small pieces because they
decompose rapidly. The harder or the more woody the tissues, the smaller they
need to be divided to decompose rapidly. Woody material should be put through a
grinder, but most grinders chop herbaceous materials too finely for good
composting. Chopping material with a sharp shovel is effective. When pruning
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plants, cut material into small pieces with the pruning shears-it takes a little effort
but the results (and the exercise!) are good.
2. For the composting process to work most effectively, material to be composted
should have a carbon to nitrogen ratio of 30 to 1. This cannot be measured easily,
but experience has shown that mixing equal volumes of green plant material with
equal volumes of naturally dry plant material will give approximately a 30/1
carbon to nitrogen (C/N) ratio. Green material can be grass clippings, old flowers,
green prunings, weeds, fresh garbage and fruit and vegetable wastes. Dried
material can be dead, fallen leaves, dried grass, straw and somewhat woody
materials from prunings. Such materials are easy to find in fall and early spring
but are more difficult to find in the growing season. During this time, paper bags,
cardboard boxes, cereal and milk cartons, and paper can be used for dried
materials but they must be finely chopped or shredded. Newspapers can be used if
shredded and separated by plant tissues so they do not mat - matting is bad
because oxygen is necessary for rapid decomposition and matting excludes
oxygen. Any material which is cut green and is allowed to dry is considered green.
Some green materials, such as grass clippings also may mat if care is not taken to
separate them using dry materials.
3. Composting works best if the moisture content of materials in the pile is about
50 percent. This is not easy to measure, but with experience the correct amount of
moisture can be estimated. Too much moisture will make a soggy mass, and
decomposition will be slow and will smell. if the organic material is too dry,
decomposition will be very slow or will not occur at all
4. Heat, which is very important in rapid composting, is supplied by the
respiration of the microorganisms as they break down the organic materials. To
prevent heat loss and to build up the amount of heat necessary, a minimum
volume of material is essential: a pile at least 36" x 36" x 36" is recommended. If
less than 32", the rapid process will not occur. Heat retention is better in bins
than in open piles, so rapid composting is more effective if bins are used. In
addition, the use of bins is much neater. High temperatures favor the
microorganisms which are the most rapid decomposers; these microorganisms
function at about 160oF (71oC) and a good pile will maintain itself at about that
temperature. A thermometer to measure temperatures inside the pile is helpful
although not necessary.
5. The compost pile needs to be turned to prevent the pile from getting too hot. if it
gets much above 160oF, the microorganisms will be killed, the pile will cool, and
the whole process will have to start from the beginning. By turning the pile it will
not overheat, and it will be aerated also, both of which are necessary to keep the
most active decomposers functioning.
The pile should be turned so that material which is on the outside is moved to the
center. In this way, all the material will reach optimum temperatures at various
times. Due to heat loss around the margins, only the central portion of the pile is
at the optimum temperature. Because of the necessity for turning, it is desirable

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to have two bins so the material can be turned from one into another. Bins made
with removable slats in the front make the turning process easier.
Bins with covers retain the heat better than do those having no covers. Once the
decomposition process starts, the pile becomes
smaller and because the bin is no longer full, some heat will be lost at the top.
This can be prevented by using a piece of polyethylene plastic slightly larger than
the top area of the bins. After the compost is turned, the plastic is placed directly
on the top of the compost and is tucked in around the edges.
If the material in the pile is turned every day, it will take 2 weeks or a Iittle longer
to compost. If turned every other day, it will take about 3 weeks. The longer the
interval between turning the longer it will take for the composting to finish.
6. Once a pile is started, do not add anything (with perhaps one exception, which
will be mentioned in 9). The reason is that it takes a certain length of time for the
material to break down and anything added has to start at the beginning, thus
lengthening the decomposition time for the whole pile.
Excess material should be as dry as possible during storage until a new pile is
started. Moist stored materials will start to decompose and if this occurs, they will
not do a good job in the compost pile.
7. Nothing needs to be added to the organic materials to make them decompose.
The microorganisms active in the decomposition process are ubiquitous where
plant materials are found and will develop rapidly in any compost piles.
8. If done correctly, a pile will heat to high temperatures within 24 to 48 hours. If
it doesn't, the pile is too wet or too dry or there is not enough green material (or
nitrogen) present. If too wet, the material should be spread out to dry. If too dry,
add moisture. If neither of these, then the nitrogen is low (a high C/N ratio) and
this can be corrected by adding materials high in nitrogen (such as ammonium
sulfate, grass clippings, fresh chicken manure or urine diluted I to 5).
9. If the C/N ratio is less than 30/1, the organic matter will decompose very
rapidly but there will be a loss of nitrogen. This will be given off as
ammonia and if this odor is present in or around a composting pile, it means that
valuable nitrogen is being lost in the air. This can be counteracted by the addition
of some sawdust to that part of the pile where there is an ammonia odor - sawdust
is very high in carbon and low in nitrogen (a high C/N ratio) and therefore will
counteract the excess nitrogen. Other than adding water should the pile become
dry, this is the only thing which should be added to a pile once it's started.
Because composting can be done anytime, during the rainy season some covering
of the pile may be necessary to keep the composting materials from becoming too
wet.
10. Materials which should not be added to a composting pile include soil, ashes
from a stove or fireplace, and manure from carnivorous (meat-eating) animals. Soil
adds nothing but weight to a compost pile and will discourage the turning of the
pile which is necessary for the rapid composting process. Wood ashes will not

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decompose. Most soils in California have a basic pH and as wood ashes are basic,
they should not be added to a compost pile or to the soil. Manure from
carnivorous animals such as dogs, cats, lions, tigers, etc., could contain disease-
producing organisms that might infect humans. It is not known whether or not
the rapid composting process will kill these organisms and therefore such
manures should not be used - manures from herbivorous animals such as
rabbits, goats, cattle, horses, elephants or fowl can be used.
11. The rapid decomposition can be detected by a pleasant odor, by the heat
produced (this is even visible in the form of water vapor given off during the
turning of the pile), by the growth of white fungi on the decomposing organic
material, by a reduction of volume,
and by the change in color of the materials to dark brown.
As composting nears completion the temperature drops and, finally, little or no
heat is produced. The compost is then ready to use. If in the preparation of the
compost, the material was not chopped in small pieces, screening the material
through 1-inch-mesh chicken wire will hold back such pieces. These can be added
to the next pile and eventually they will decompose.
Advantages of the rapid composting system include:
• The production of a valuable soil amendment from many organic materials
which normally might be wasted.
• Compost can be made ready for use in as short a time as 14 to 21 days.
• Rapid composting kills all plant disease producing organisms if done as
described. It does not inactivate heat resistant viruses such as tobacco mosaic
virus.
• Insects do not survive the composting process. Though some may be attracted to
the pile, if they lay their eggs in the compost the will destroy them.
• Most weeds and weed seeds are killed. Some weeds such as oxalis bulbs, seeds
of burr clover, some amaranthus seeds and seeds of cheese weed are not killed by
the high temperatures in the pile.
In addition to the above, outdoor exercise is an added benefit.

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DOUBLE DUG COMPOSTING
Why double dig?

Simply put, double digging involves removing the top soil layer, exposing the
subsoil or hardpan beneath, breaking it up, adding organic matter, and replacing
the topsoil that was initially removed.Double digging allows roots to reach deeper
into the earth, where better-draining subsoil makes it less likely they’ll become
water-logged or oxygen-deprived. Deeper roots mean plants don’t have to be
watered as often. And more plants can grow in the same area because they don’t
have to rely on the topsoil alone for moisture and nutrients.That’s the rationale for
this simple technique, but simple doesn’t mean easy. Double digging through
rock-hard subsoil is tough work. Fortunately, double digging a bed is a one-shot
deal you’ll never have to repeat. And it’s the fastest way to good soil.A spade is all
it takes
This low-tech process requires only a couple of tools, the most important of
which is the proper digging implement. I use a short-handled, square-tipped
spade rather than a round-tipped shovel (the latter I use for double digging holes,
not beds). The spade allows me to make flat, sharp slices through the dirt, and the
short handle forces me to bend my knees while digging, thus taking the strain off
my lower back.
You may also need a wheelbarrow for hauling organic matter to work into
the bed. The wheelbarrow can also serve to move topsoil from the first trench dug
to the last; a tarp would work, too. Proceed to the garden before you start,
determine the beds you want dug. Make them 3 ft. to 4 ft. wide if you want to
reach the middle of the bed from either side. They can be as long as you want.
Some plants require wide spacing, such as tomatoes and eggplant. These
don’t need to be put into beds, but can be planted separately with a modified
double-digging technique. Double digging an entire bed for them would mean
more work. Unless you’re a glutton for hard labor, double digging a hole (and
amending the soil) is all you need do for these plants. When you double dig a bed,
you expose the subsoil layer, break it up, and amend it with organic matter.
Technique for double digging. Healthy soil is essential to a productive
garden, so it pays to expend the energy and double dig your way to it. But don’t
hurt yourself in the process. Remember to bend your knees, and try to keep your
back straight. Don’t try to lift too much soil at one time. Take periodic breaks and
drink plenty of water.
When you’re ready to go, expose an 18-in. to 22-in.-deep section of your
soil. Typically you’ll find an upper layer of topsoil and subsoil beneath.
Sometimes, as in the photo at right, the strata are easily seen. In double digging,
you want to work the subsoil, amending it with organic matter.
To double dig a bed, start at one end and move backwards. Once the soil is
loosened, turned, and aerated, you don’t want to step on it again, as compaction

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defeats one of the purposes of double digging. Dig a trench across the width of the
bed, removing the topsoil and piling it at the top of the bed on a tarp or in a
wheelbarrow. The trench should be 6 in. or 7 in. wide, the width of your spade,
and as deep as your spade, 9 in. to 11 in.
1. Dig a trench as wide across as you want the bed to be. The trench should be 9
in. to 11 in. deep and as wide as your spade. Remove this topsoil and pile it at the
end of the bed. Add organic matter to the trench and chop it in. Above, I’ve used
old cornstalks, but any organic matter can be used, as long as it’s disease free.
Now loosen the subsoil another 9 in. to 11 in., working in the organic matter.
2. Do yourself and your soil a favor and don’t walk on it again after you’ve finished
digging. Work backwards and dig another trench just behind the first, following
the same steps. Place the topsoil on top of the first trench’s subsoil and organic
matter mix. Continue to dig trenches until you reach the end of your bed. Don’t
hesitate to take breaks.
Next, put several inches of organic material in the trench. Fresh manure or
any rough, non-woody plant matter like leaves, grass, or old flower stems can be
used. I like hollow cornstalks and sunflower stems because the air trapped inside
them allows microorganisms in the soil to flourish and accelerates the breakdown
of organic matter and the production of humus. Don’t use diseased plants, as they
may infect the soil and pass on the disease to future crops. And save your fine
compost to mix in the topsoil once you’ve finished digging the bed. If this is your
first garden and you don’t have a source of organic materials to add to your soil,
commercially bagged compost or manure will do.
After adding the organic material, loosen the soil to another spade’s depth,
chopping or turning the organic matter into the subsoil. If it is very rough and
rocky, take 2-in. to 3-in. sections at a time. Remove large rocks as you go. You
want to break the hardpan into small chunks interspersed with organic matter,
providing channels for water to drain and roots to grow into. If you find a soil fork
works better than a spade on this bottom layer, by all means use it.
There, you’ve double dug the first trench. Wipe your brow, have a drink of
water, and repeat the process. Start another trench parallel to and just behind the
first, one spade-width wide and one spade-depth deep. Throw the topsoil from the
second trench on top of the first trench’s mixture of organic material and subsoil.
Repeat the process by tossing a layer of organic material into the second
trench, and digging and mixing it into the subsoil. Keep double digging trenches
down the length of your bed. When you get to the end of the bed, you will be one
layer short of topsoil. Go to the top of the bed where you put the topsoil from your
first trench, and bring that layer of topsoil down to spread on the last trench.
That done, rake smooth the top of the bed, add some fine compost or other
soil amendment, and your double-dug bed is finished. You’ll see it’s raised 6 in. or
more above the surrounding area. This is due not only to the addition of the
organic material, but also to the de-compaction of existing soil. And this is how

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soil should be— loose, enriched, well aerated, and as pleasing to the eye as it will
be to your plants.
3. Bring the topsoil from the first trench dug to the last. The soil should be
aerated and free of large rocks. Add compost or other amendments if needed.
4. Rake the soil smooth and take in the bed’s beauty. The bed will be raised a few
inches above the surrounding soil, due to aeration and organic matter. You now
have a home for your plants where they can reach their full potential.

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SUBSTRATE COMPOSTING

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Worldwide edible mushroom production on agro-industrial residues
comprises of more than 11 million tons of fresh mushrooms per year. Waste
problem: For 1 kg of mushrooms there is 5 kg of spent mushroom compost (SMC)
which is a waste with disposal problem. Waste to Wealth: SMC contains mycelium
and high levels of remnant nutrients such as organic substances and macro
elements(N,P,K). remnant nutrients such as organic substances and macro
elements(N,P,K). The spent mushroom is being tried for reuse in agricultural and
horticultural production. Recently, the increase of the global environmental
consciousness and stringent legislation have focused research towards the
application of sustainable and circular processes which together make a circular
economy. Circular economy implies that agricultural waste will be the source for
retrieving high value-added compounds.
Current Disposal Practices of SMC
The substrate after growing mushrooms is usually a problem for their
producers, who are most willing to get rid of the compost after harvest. The
average mushroom farm throws about 25 tons of SCM per month. Cultivation
remnants and the substrate itself attracts flies and other insects that can transmit
diseases and are a potential source of insects that can transmit diseases and are a
potential source of water and air pollution. Some of the current disposal strategy
of SMS/SMC in the world is by burning, spreading on land, burying, composting
with animal manure, or very much common by landfilling. Environmental
regulations have forced mushroom farmers to look for more environmentally
friendly ways of utilizing residual substrates. Most commonly, the research on
SMS/SMC is focused on the enzymatic activity of the residual mycelium and its
ability for production of lignocellulosic enzymes such as laccase, xylanase, lignin
peroxidase, cellulase and hemicellulase as a cheap source of bioremediation,
animal feed and energy feedstock. Energy feedstock. The demand for organic
fertilizers and compost increased due to increasing restrictions on the use of
synthetic pesticides and mineral fertilizers in agricultural and horticultural
cultivation.
MUSHROOM SUBSTRATE TYPES
Mushrooms are cultivated on a specially designed and selective medium
that supplies the nutritional requirements of the mushroom crop. The best
substrates are composed from so called agricultural wastes rich in lignocellulose
components which are difficult to break down; however, can be effectively be done
by mushrooms. Effectively be done by mushrooms. Their composition and method
of preparation varies depending on the availability and geographic location of the
crop. Depending on which mushroom is cultivated there are two kinds of
substrates for cultivation: composted and pasteurised substrate to or sanitised
with pasteurization or sterilisation.

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Mushroom Compost
One of the most popular commercial blends of mushroom substrate is a mix of
wheat straw, gypsum, and horse or chicken manure. Other ingredients can be
used, but these are some of the most common. To produce industrial-level
quantities of this particular mushroom compost, a manufacturer will begin with
large bales of wheat straw. Bales of straw are dunked in water and allowed to soak
for a few minutes, fully saturating them like a large sponge. The straw is then
saturating them like a large sponge. The straw is then run through a chipper to
make it into a finer particulate. Meanwhile, the manure and gypsum will be
blended together thoroughly, and then the straw worked in. This mixture will be
placed in hot compost piles. They are watered and turned daily to begin the
composting process. This process can take up to two weeks.
Once the initial hot stages have concluded, killing off any wheat seeds that
remain, the piles are turned into long rows and allowed to compost down for
another couple of weeks. This secondary composting slowly turns the piles into a
rich chocolate brown colour. The resulting compost is then pasteurized to kill off
any remaining bacteria or weed seeds that might have gotten in during the
composting phases. The pasteurization fully sterilizes the wheat/manure/gypsum
blend and creates a perfectly clean material.

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The Benefits of Using Composts to Agriculture
Compost has been considered as a valuable soil amendment for centuries.
Most people are aware that using composts is an effective way to increase healthy
plant production, help save money, reduce the use of chemical fertilizers, and
conserve natural resources. Compost provides a stable organic matter that
improves the physical, chemical, and biological properties of soils, thereby
enhancing soil quality and crop production. When correctly applied, compost has
the following beneficial effects on soil properties, thus creating suitable conditions
for root development and consequently promoting higher yield and higher quality
of crops.
1.Improves the Physical Properties of Soils

(a.) Reduces the soil bulk density and improves the soil structure directly by
loosening heavy soils with organic matter, and indirectly by means of aggregate-
stabilizing humus contained in composts. Incorporating composts into compacted
soils improves root penetration and turf establishment.
(b.) Increases the water-holding capacity of the soil directly by binding water to
organic matter, and indirectly by improving the soil structure, thus improving the
absorption and movement of water into the soil. Therefore, water requirement and
irrigation will be reduced.
(c) Protects the surface soil from water and wind erosion by reducing the soil-
dispersion action of beating raindrops, increasing infiltration, reducing water
runoff, and increasing surface wetness. Preventing erosion is essential for
protecting waterways and maintaining the quality and productivity of the soil.
(d) Helps bind the soil particles into crumbs by the fungi or actinomycetes mycelia
contained in the compost and stimulated in the soil by its application, generally
increasing the stability of the soil against wind and water erosion.
(e) Improves soil aeration and thus supplies enough oxygen to the roots and
escapes excess carbon dioxide from the root space.

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(f) Increases the soil temperature directly by its dark color, which increases heat
absorption by the soil, and indirectly by the improved soil structure.
(g) Helps moderate soil temperature and prevents rapid fluctuations of soil
temperature, hence, providing a better environment for root growth. This is
especially true of compost used as a surface mulch.
2.Enhances the Chemical Properties of Soils
(a)Enables soils to hold more plant nutrients and increases the cation exchange
capacity (CEC), anion exchange capacity (AEC), and buffering capacity of soils for
longer periods of time after composts are applied to soils. This is important mainly
for soils containing little clay and organic matter.
(b)Builds up nutrients in the soil. Composts contain the major nutrients required
by all plants [N,P,K, calcium (Ca), magnesium(Mg), and S] plus essential
micronutrients or trace elements, such as copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), iron (Fe),
manganese (Mn), boron (B), and molybdenum (Mb).
(c)The nutrients from mature composts are released to the plants slowly and
steadily. The benefits will last for more than one season.
(d)Stabilizes the volatile nitrogen of raw materials into large protein particles
during composting, thereby reducing N losses.
(e)Provides active agents, such as growth substances, which may be beneficial
mainly to germinating plants.
(f)Adds organic matter and humus to regenerate poor soils.
(g)Buffers the soil against rapid changes due to acidity, alkalinity, salinity,
pesticides, and toxic heavy metals.
3.Improves the Biological Properties of Soils
(a)Supplies food and encourages the growth of beneficial microorganisms and
earthworms.
(b)Helps suppress certain plant diseases, soil borne diseases, and parasites.
(c) Research has shown that composts can help control plant diseases (e.g.
Pythium root rot, Rhizoctonia root rot, chili wilt, and parasitic nematode) and
reduce crop losses. A major California fruit and vegetable grower was able to cut
pesticide use by 80% after three years of compost applications as part of an
organic matter management system. Research has also indicated that some
composts, particularly those prepared from tree barks, release chemicals that
inhibit some plant pathogens. Disease control with compost has been attributed to
four possible mechanisms:
1) successful competition for nutrients by beneficial microorganisms;
2) antibiotic production by beneficial microorganisms;
3) successful predation against pathogens by beneficial microorganisms;
4) activation of disease-resistant genes in plants by composts; and
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5) high temperatures that result from composting kill pathogens.
6)Reduces and kills weed seeds by a combination of factors including the heat of
the compost pile, rotting, and premature germination.
Economic and Social Benefits of Composting
The economic and social benefits of composting include the following:
1.Brings higher prices for organically grown crops.
2.Composting can offer several potential economic benefits to communities:
3.Extends current landfill longevity and delays the construction of a more
expensive replacement landfill or incinerator.
4.Reduces or avoids landfill or combustor tipping fees, and reduces waste disposal
fees and long-distance transportation costs.
5.Offers environmental benefits from reduced landfill and combustion use.
6.Creates new jobs for citizens.
7.Produces marketable products and a less-cost alternative to standard landfill
cover, artificial soil amendments, and conventional bioremediation techniques.
8.Provides a source of plant nutrients and improves soil fertility; results in
significant cost savings by reducing the need for water, pesticides, fungicides,
herbicides, and nematodes.
9.Used as an alternative to natural topsoil in new construction, landscape
renovations, and container gardens. Using composts in these types of applications
is not only less expensive than purchasing topsoil, but it can also often produce
better results when establishing a healthy vegetative cover.
10.Used as mulch for trees, orchards, landscapes, lawns, gardens, and makes an
excellent potting mix. Placed over the roots of plants, compost mulch conserves
water and stabilizes soil temperatures. In addition, it keeps plants healthy by
controlling weeds, providing a slow release of nutrients, and preventing soil loss
through erosion.

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SELF CHECK
Multiple choice. Write the letter only.
1. is a biological decomposition of organic materials by micro organism.
A. Composting C. Double dug composting
B. Rapid Composting D. Substrate composting
2. Substances are reduce from large to small materials which continue to

decompose slowly.
3. ________________ involves removing the top soil layer, exposing the subsoil or
hardpan beneath, breaking it up, adding organic matter, and replacing the topsoil
that was initially removed.
4.___________ a mix of wheat straw, gypsum, and horse or chicken manure.

Rapid composting
5.____________ Is the process, compost can be made in 2 to 3 weeks.
A. Composting c. Double dug composting
B. Rapid Composting D. Substrate Composting
Enumeration: What are the benefits of using composting in agriculture?

Enumeration
1.Improves the physical properties of the soils
2.Enhances the chemical properties of the soils
3. the biological properties of the soils

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ANSWER KEY
1. A 4. D
2. B 5. B
3. C
Enumeration
1.Improves the physical properties of the soils
2.Enhances the chemical properties of the soils
3. the biological properties of the soils

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Processing of decomposed fertilizer are carried-out based on production
requirement.
1. Classify the raw materials needed in fertilizer composting; and
2. Perform the activities on processing the compost fertilizer.

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Processing of Compost Ferilizer

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Composting is nature’s way to
recycle.
Composting happens. It’s simply the slow, natural decomposition of organics.
Composting at home is the controlled and faster decomposition of organics such as yard
trimmings and food waste that you and your family generate. Microorganisms break down
this material into compost – a nutrient-rich product that can be used as a soil
amendment in yards, gardens, flower beds and potted plants.
Why compost at home?

• It’s good for you and the environment.
The product you make is valuable. It can improve the soil, prevent erosion, reduce the
use of fertilizer and water – saving natural resources and money – as well as decrease
the amount of waste you generate.
• It involves little effort, equipment, expense and expertise.

This guide addresses several home composting options and will help you decide which
one is best for you. Backyard composting is the most common choice and the focus of
this publication.
Let’s get started.

Consider the following questions when planning to
compost at home. Use the flow chart on the
following page to help you decide which method to
use.
1. How much space do you have at

home?
2. What material will you be
composting?

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Do-It-Yourself Bins

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DIY Wire Bin
STEP 1: STEP 2:
Use a hammer to drive. Use about 12 feet of chicken
Bins to Buy
TYPE PROS & CONS
Circular Pros: Lightweight, adjustable, can add material
Bins during process.
Cons: Minimal barrier to pets/pests.
Enclosed Pros: Neat appearance, low cost, low
Bins maintenance, good barrier to pets/ pests.
Cons: Slower decomposition time, cannot add
material once full, limited space for material.
Rolling Pros: Can be moved for loading and emptying or
Bins or for out-of-sight storage, low maintenance, less
Barrels manual labor, faster decomposition time, good
barrier to pets/pests.
Cons: Fully loaded drums can be heavy and
difficult to roll, less capacity for material.
Tumblers Pros: Simple loading and emptying, low
maintenance, less manual labor, good barrier to
pets/pests.
Cons: Fully loaded drums can be heavy and
difficult to turn, less capacity for material.
Circular Bin
Enclosed Bin

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Open Composting
TYPE PROS & CONS SUGGESTIONS &
PRECAUTIONS
Piles Pros: Minimal labor, can When adding material,
add material during mix well and cover with
process, low browns.
maintenance.
Cons: Slower
decomposition, no
barrier to pets/pests.
Pits or Pros: Minimal labor, no Fully cover greens and
Trenches browns required, low bury where pets will not
maintenance. dig.
Cons: Slower
decomposition, new
holes/trenches required
for new material.
Sheet Pros: No moving Overlap cardboard or
Mulching compost to garden, low wet newspaper for the
or maintenance. weed barrier and plant
Lasagna directly into the top
Cons: Wait time for
Gardening layers.
planting, no barrier to
pets/pests.
Tumblers
Pit Composting
Collecting Your Household Food Waste

A container with a lid is a great way to store food waste in
the kitchen until you are ready to take it outside. To avoid
odors and flies, empty the container at least every two
days, sprinkle sawdust on top of food layers or store your
food waste in the freezer.
Backyard Composting Step-By-Step

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Once you’ve decided which backyard option you’ll be using, follow these steps.
Size matters. Connect to the soil. Add ingredients.

1 Three square feet is ideal for 2 Your compost needs 3 Making compost is
(e.g., house, fence, trees

). adding material. For enclosed top layer is always browns.
bins, place a layer of soil at
the bottom of the container.
Check moisture. Mix it up. Watch and it’s done!

4 Water is important. Too 5 Air is essential. Use a 6 As material breaks down the
a lot like a pile or bin, but don’t exceed microorganisms from the soil.
The Compost Recipe

Four basic ingredients are required for
backyard composting: 1) browns; 2)
greens; 3) air; and 4) water.
Mixing the right amounts of these ingredients will
provide the composting microorganisms with enough
carbon and nitrogen as well as oxygen and moisture to
break down the material into finished compost.
Recipes vary. A common mix is three parts browns to
one part greens. Other variables in making compost
include pile size, content, particle size, turning
frequency, moisture and temperature. Getting the right
proportions may take time and adjustments, but don’t
get bogged down on the recipe.

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What goes in your backyard compost?
CARBON MATERIALS (Browns) NITROGEN MATERIALS (Greens)
Shredded cardboard Bread & grains

Dryer and Coffee
grounds &
paper filters
vacuum cleaner lint

Fruits (cooked or
uncooked – limit citrus)
Crushed egg shells
Fireplace or wood ash (no coal ash)
Green grass clippings

Hay and straw Green leaves
Green shrub prunings
Pinestraw (small
amounts)
Nut shells Hair and fur

Household plants
and used potting soil
House plants
Old brush, shrub

trimmings and prunings
Kelp or seaweed

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Manure from chickens,
rabbits, cows, horses
Paper towels and towel (herbivores)
rolls
Saw dust and wood chips

(untreated)
Old flowers
Tea bags (with tags)

Shredded
newspaper
Yard trimmings (dry
Vegetables (cooked or uncooked)
leaves, clippings and twigs)
NOTE: Always mix food waste into the middle of the pile to avoid odors and pests.
DO NOT COMPOST THESE ITEMS IN BACKYARD BINS!

Coal ash from briquettes Glass Plastic
Dairy products Meat, bones or seafood Treated or painted wood
scraps
Trimmings toxic to other
Diseased or infected
Metal plants (e.g., black walnut,
plants
hemlock)
Dog, cat or human waste Oils, fats, grease or lard Weeds, roots or seeds
Temperature Check
Temperature is an essential component of composting. As
organic material decomposes, heat is produced. This heat
provides an environment where the microorganisms can
work to break down the material. Understanding and
monitoring the temperature are integral to ensuring that
you produce quality compost that is free from potentially
harmful pathogens.
Here is some basic information on temperature.
• A properly working compost pile will reach
temperatures of 130°F to 160°F.
• Use a compost thermometer. Temperatures should
be taken from the center of the pile where it is hottest.

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Keep a record to compare different phases based on
ingredients and methods.
• Heat destroys pathogens and weed seeds. Most
pathogens are destroyed at temperatures of 130°F to 140°F
for 72 hours. Most weed seeds are destroyed at temperatures
of 140°F or above for 72 hours.
• Don’t overheat. Heating your pile above 170°F for more
than a few hours is not recommended because it inhibits
most microorganisms and shuts down decomposition.
Common Problems & Simple Solutions

Anytime you try something new, problems can arise. Luckily, composting is not
too complicated and most problems are simple and can be easily remedied. Here
are the usual trouble spots.
SYMPTOM SITUATION SOLUTION

The pile has a rotten-egg There is too much water. Turn the pile and add
smell. more browns if it’s soggy.
The pile has an ammonia There is too much Add browns and turn the
smell. nitrogen or not enough air. pile.
The pile isn’t decomposing The pile is too small. Mix new ingredients into
quickly enough or isn’t the pile.
producing enough heat.
The material is too dry. Add water and turn the
pile.
The pile needs nitrogen. Add greens.
The pile needs oxygen. Turn the pile more
frequently.
The pile is too hot. The There is too much Add browns and water,
temperature is 170°F or nitrogen. then turn the pile.
above.
The pile is losing heat The material is going Add greens and turn the
before the compost is anaerobic – losing air. pile.
finished.
Flies and/or gnats are The greens are exposed. Check the material list on
around the pile. page 7. Cover the greens
with browns.
When is your compost ready to use?
When material at the bottom has no remnants of food or yard trimmings and the
pile begins to cool, your compost should be ready to use. The temperature will

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begin to drop while turning the pile just before the compost is cured and ready to
use. It will be the rich brown color of good soil and smell earthy.
Other Methods of Composting & Diversion
• Grasscycling
Grasscycling is the natural recycling of grass
clippings by leaving them on the lawn after
mowing. Grass clippings consist of at least 80
percent water and rapidly decompose. They
enhance soil fertility – returning water, nitrogen
and other valuable nutrients to the soil. You spend
less time maintaining the yard and save money by
using less fertilizer and water.
Grasscycling
• Vermicomposting
Vermicomposting – composting with worms – turns food
waste into a nutrient-rich soil amendment from worm
castings and can be used
on both houseplants and
outdoor plants.
Vermicomposting is
relatively easy
– using only a container,
bedding, worms, water and food
waste from your home. Worm
bins can be purchased or easily
made with a 3 to 12-gallon plastic storage bin.
Bedding can be shredded newspaper or leaves. The
worms needed for vermicomposting are red wigglers
(Eisenia fetida), which can eat their weight in organic
can be purchased locally or online. This project is
great
Vermicomposting Bin for indoor composting in a minimal space and is
virtually odorless. It typically takes three to four
months to produce
material per day and
vermicompost. Another product of vermicomposting is “worm tea” that is a high-
quality liquid fertilizer.
• Food Digesters
Food digesters – also know as Green Cone Composters – are designed
to accelerate the natural decomposition process by raising temperatures,
maintaining aerobic conditions, and encouraging the growth of
microorganisms. This system processes almost all household food waste
including the “don’ts” like raw and cooked meat, fish, bones and dairy.
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The cone has a basket installed below the ground, which forms the base
for an above ground solar chamber with a sealed access lid. The food
waste is converted into water, carbon dioxide and a small amount of
residue Food Digester
without the need for mixing or turning the waste. After about five years the
small quantity of residue is removed and dug into the garden soil.
• Bokashi
Bokashi is an anaerobic method developed in
Japan that uses inoculated bran to ferment food
waste. Food waste is broken down quickly by
microorganisms until it is pickled – producing
“pre-compost” that can be mixed with soil. This
method also creates a leachate that can be used
as compost tea – a nutrient-rich fertilizer.
Bokashi bran and equipment are required for
this method.
• Commercial Compost Haulers

Commercial composters may have residential
pick-up or drop-off options in your area. Because
the material is going to a commercial compost
site, more compostables can be included with
food waste such as meat, bones, compostable plates and dinnerware, wax
paper and spoiled leftovers. Contact your county recycling coordinator at
www.scdhec.gov/ recyclehereSC, or find a compost hauler in the Green
Resource Bokashi-Style Bucket Index at www.scdhec.gov/gri.
Visit www.scdhec.gov/compost to learn more about these and other methods of

composting.

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SELF CHECK
Write before the number the letter C if the raw material written is
CARBON and write N if it is NITROGEN.
______1.shredded cardboard
______2.Dryer and cleaner vacuum lint
______3. Crushed egg shells
______4. Fire place or wood ash
______5. Hay and straw
______6. Pine straw
______7. Nut shell
______8. Household plants and potting soil
______9. Saw dust and wood chips
______10. Shredded news paper
______11.Bread and grains
______12 Coffee grounds and paper filter
______13.Frouts
______14.Green grass clippings
_______15.Green leaves
_______16.Hair and fur
_______17.Green shrub prunings
_______18.Old flowers
_______19.Tea bags
_______20. Vegetables
Organic Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Agriculture October 2021 Issued by:
Production NCII
Compost and Compiled by: MTDF Page 37 of 76
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ANSWER KEY
1. C
2. C
3. C
4. C
5. C
6. C
7. C
8. C
9. C
10. C
11. N
12. N
13. N
14. N
15. N
16. N
17. N
18. N
19. N
20. N

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JOB SHEET 3.2-1
Title: Processing of Compost Fertilizer
Performance Objective: Given (condition), ,you should be able to

(performance) following (standard).
Supplies/Materials :
Equipment :
Steps/Procedure:
1. Clear a corner of the backyard by the fence or near the edge of the garden for
your compost pile or bin. It should be close to a water source and easy to reach,
but out of the main traffic flow. Make sure the compost pile out of the direct
summer sun, but away from buildings.
2. Construct or place your compost bin, if you choose to confine your compost pile.
You can use a variety of materials, such as untreated wood pallets, wire mesh, snow-
fencing or concrete blocks to make a simple structure for your compost.
3. Add "browns" and the "greens." Browns are fallen leaves, evergreen needles, woody
matter, including bark, twigs and branches, sawdust, wood chips and other materials
that contain carbon, such as shredded cardboard and paper. Greens are grass
clippings, green garden waste, vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, eggshells, fruits and
other kitchen waste. These items release nitrogen as they break down.
4. Avoid using meat and dairy products, including meat and fish bones, oils and
grease, carnivorous animal manure. Don’t use grass or plant clippings that have
pesticides on them, or pressure-treated wood. Lastly, don't use diseased garden plants
or weeds.
5. Add safe animal manures to the compost heap, if available. Use manure from grass,
grain and hay eaters, such as horses, rabbits, cows and chickens.
6. Moisten the pile periodically with your garden hose as you add to it. Sprinkle
a shovel or so of finished compost or healthy garden soil over the compost
materials to add live microorganisms that will begin to break down the
trimmings and scraps.
7. Watch for the pile to settle, a sign that the composting is working. Natural
decomposition does the work of transforming the materials, heating up the pile to
between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit in a few weeks. Speed things up by turning
the pile with a shovel or pitchfork every week or two. Move materials on the outside of
the pile into the center. This allows the material to decompose more evenly.
8. Check for signs that the compost is finished in one to four months, if you layer
material and regularly turn it, or two months to two years if you don't. Your compost is
ready to use when all the materials turn into a clean-smelling, crumbly, earth-like
brown substance. Use it to enrich your garden soil or outdoor potted plants.

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CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Clear a corner of the backyard by the fence or near the
edge of the garden for your compost pile or bin. It
should be close to a water source and easy to reach, but
out of the main traffic flow. Make sure the compost pile
out of the direct summer sun, but away from buildings.
2. Construct or place your compost bin, if you choose to
confine your compost pile. You can use a variety of
materials, such as untreated wood pallets, wire mesh,
snow-fencing or concrete blocks to make a simple
structure for your compost.
3. Add "browns" and the "greens." Browns are fallen

leaves, evergreen needles, woody matter, including
bark, twigs and branches, sawdust, wood chips and
other materials that contain carbon, such as shredded
cardboard and paper. Greens are grass clippings, green
garden waste, vegetable scraps, coffee grounds,
eggshells, fruits and other kitchen waste. These items
release nitrogen as they break down.
4. Avoid using meat and dairy products, including meat

and fish bones, oils and grease, carnivorous animal
manure. Don’t use grass or plant clippings that have
pesticides on them, or pressure-treated wood. Lastly,
don't use diseased garden plants or weeds.
5. Add safe animal manures to the compost heap, if

available. Use manure from grass, grain and hay eaters,
such as horses, rabbits, cows and chickens.
6. Moisten the pile periodically with your garden hose as

you add to it. Sprinkle a shovel or so of finished
compost or healthy garden soil over the compost
materials to add live microorganisms that will begin to
break down the trimmings and scraps.
7. Watch for the pile to settle, a sign that the composting
is working. Natural decomposition does the work of
transforming the materials, heating up the pile to
between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit in a few
weeks. Speed things up by turning the pile with a
shovel or pitchfork every week or two. Move materials
on the outside of the pile into the center. This allows
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the material to decompose more evenly.
8. Check for signs that the compost is finished in one to

four months, if you layer material and regularly turn it,
or two months to two years if you don't. Your compost
is ready to use when all the materials turn into a clean-
smelling, crumbly, earth-like brown substance. Use it
to enrich your garden soil or outdoor potted plants.

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Record keeping is performed according to enterprise procedure.
1. Determine what particular pile condition will be recorded; and
2. Understand why and how to record compost fertilizer.
Monitoring and Record Keeping

The ability to make good compost starts with a good recipe and with your
ability to monitor the compost and respond to changes as they occur. Many
operators suggest there is "an art to composting". Good records can help you
to improve your compost quality. It is important to keep records of the
feedstock materials being composted, C:N ratios and approximate moisture
content at the start of the composting process.
Records should also include when the compost was turned and the
conditions of the compost at that time. Temperatures need to be monitored
regularly. Some standard operating procedures require daily temperature
recording during the active phase, to ensure that the required temperatures
have been achieved. It is recommended that the thermometer has a one
metre (or three-foot stem) with a 0-80 °C temperature range, and be inserted
into the centre of the pile in several locations at each monitoring event.
Make notes of moisture condition and any odours. Foul odours may indicate
anaerobic conditions or lack of oxygen. Ammonia smells may indicate high
nitrogen content (C:N imbalance) and a need for more carbon material.
Additional records and sampling may be required when composting permits
are required, such as when off-farm materials are added, or when selling
compost as a soil amendment or fertilizers.

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Compost Site Management
Monitoring Piles: Why and How
Monitoring Compost Piles
Monitoring compost piles is done for several reasons. Monitoring provides
the composter with insight into activity in the compost pile, and this
information in turn guides management choices regarding the specific piles
you are monitoring, as well as how you make and manage compost on an
going basis. Monitoring provides you with a feedback loop for maintaining
optimal composting conditions and producing a quality product. For
example, temperature monitoring can be very useful in determining when a
pile should be turned to sustain optimum microbial activity.
Additionally, pile monitoring is a requirement for many composters who
operate within a regulatory framework, such as a solid waste permit or the
organic standards. The monitoring requirements of solid waste permitted
operations composting food scraps (source-separated organics or SSO) in
Vermont are covered in this guide, although the general practices
described will apply to composters of farm wastes and other materials as
well. Most regulatory requirements for pile monitoring, aim to ensure that
a heat treatment called the Process to Further Reduce Pathogens or PFRP
is achieved. In addition, consistent reduction in pile temperatures can be
an
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important Vermont guidelines are covered in the Pile Temperature
Monitoring section on this guide.
When To Monitor
To paraphrase an old Chinese proverb – “The best fertilizer is a farmer’s
footsteps.” The composter’s attention is the best ingredient for making good
compost. Diligent monitoring will help you correct small issues before they
become big problems and help refine your practices over time. The Vermont
Solid Waste rules require daily temperature monitoring
1
during the temperature treatment period and records of monitoring
activities during this period are needed in order to remain in compliance.
However, continuous monitoring outside of the treatment period is critical
to producing quality compost, especially during the first two to three
months when the pile is most active. Two times weekly is usually adequate
for most turned windrow composters. Those using Aerated Static Pile and
In-Vessel Methods usually benefit from continuing with a daily monitoring
regime, since temperature swings can be dramatic with those systems.
Since monitoring informs good management decisions, more regular
monitoring is always beneficial, particularly for anyone who is new to the
composting process.
How To Monitor Your Compost

In creating and managing compost, you are working to ensure that you
have created suitable habitat for aerobic decomposer organisms. As a best
management practice, pile monitoring is designed to assess the ongoing
health of the pile as a microbial habitat.
There are four primary pile conditions to assess when employing monitoring
practices:
∞ Pile Temperature
∞ Pile Moisture Content
∞ Pile Structure
∞ Pile Odor
The cause of problems can often be determined by crosschecking between

multiple monitoring practices. For instance, if a pile is generating an
ammonia smell, the operator may be able to determine that it is a result of
pile dryness, using moisture monitoring to verify. While individual
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monitoring measurements can provide the operator with valuable
information, only the results of the combined monitoring techniques
collectively can tell the whole story. In addition to pile monitoring practices,
consistent observation of the site may alert you to other issues.
Pile Monitoring: Why and How

Techniques for performing these four pile monitoring practices are covered
in the rest of this guide, including a short description of why the specific
monitoring practice is used, the tools required, how the monitoring is
performed, Vermont Solid Waste rules that relate to the practice, and
general recommendations for the operator response to some conditions you
might observe. When monitoring, it is important to consistently monitor the
pile in the same locations to provide the operator with an accurate picture
of the pile over time.
Note: Whi Note: While not discussed here, monitoring pile oxygen is
also a useful practice to consider.
Pile Temperature
Function
The temperature of a compost pile is primarily a product of the metabolic
heat being generated in the pile from microbial activity. Pile temperatures
can also be affected by physical characteristics of the materials being
composted (more versus less insulating), as well as chemical reactions (at
high temperatures) and external environmental variables. Pile temperatures
are an imperfect but useful indication of microbial activity. Newly formed
piles commonly reach or exceed 130 degrees within several days to several
weeks of pile construction. Piles constructed during extremely cold weather
or with frozen feedstocks will take longer. If you are trying to ensure weed
seed and pathogen destruction you will need to
obtain 130+ degree temperatures for
several days and obtain these tempera-
tures again following multiple turnings. Field Tools
∞ Compost temperature probe

For Turned Windrow Operations use a 3’ probe with a 5/16” stem. For
Aerated Static Piles systems, longer probes 4-6’are often beneficial. In
colder climates or on large sites, multiple temperature probes with
quick response stems can be useful for efficient
monitoring.
∞ Pile Monitoring Log

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How To Measure
Pile temperatures should be taken roughly every 5 – 20 feet along the pile,
depending on the total pile length, and your regulatory status. Additionally,
temperatures should be taken at depths of 12” and 36”. The probe should
be left in place for at least one minute or until the dial stops moving.
Record pile temperatures in a monitoring log and keep monitoring logs on
file (see Monitoring Log documents, which are part of this resource
package).
Vermont Solid Waste Rules
Permitted food scrap composters in Vermont are required to heat treat

compost, meeting the Process to Further Reduce Pathogens (PFRP). Meeting
PFRP is slightly different depending on the composting method utilized. The
following are from the Vermont Solid Waste Rules:
∞ If using a turned windrow system, the temperature must be

maintained at 131 degrees Fahrenheit (55 degrees Celsius), or higher,
for at least 13 of 16 consecutive days, during which time the materials
must be turned to ensure that all materials reach this temperature.
∞ If using an actively or passively aerated static pile (including static
windrows), or the within vessel method (including bins), the temperature
must be maintained at 131 degrees Fahrenheit (55 degrees Celsius), or
higher, for at least three consecutive days.

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records shall indicate appropriate schedules for turning, monitoring of
moisture within the required range, and an appropriate mix of composting
feedstocks.
General Responses
Temperature will impact your decision to turn or not turn a pile, and may
indicate that factors in your pile recipe need to be adjusted. There may be a
number of reasons for depressed temperatures, such as a C:N ratio that is
too low or too high, high or low moisture content, compaction in the pile, or
excessive pile density. Low temperatures that correlate with a high or low
moisture content can be addressed by remediating the moisture issue. If
you are experiencing low pile temperatures and moisture is not the issue,
your C:N ratio or the pile density are the next issues to explore. If
everything in your pile recipe seems fine, try turning the pile once to mix
and aerate it.
If your pile is heating, your temperature monitoring will help you
determine when to turn the pile (or in the case of Aerated Static Pile
Composting, what sort of aeration schedule to maintain). Based on
temperature, you will want to turn your pile after your pile’s initial heating
has peaked and is beginning to decrease or if your pile temperatures at 12”
are consistently 20 degrees different than those at 36” throughout the pile.
Turning to meet PFRP will likely require turning the pile before the
temperature spikes, in order to complete several turnings within 16 days.
Additionally, if your pile is heating very well and your temperatures have
Rules require that composters monitor every 5’ along

the pile at 12” and 36” depths and that composters keep
monitoring records on file for at least 5 years.
In addition to meeting PFRP, temperature decline is one

of the indicators used to determine compost maturity
prior to distribution. To meet the temperature reduction
criteria Vermont Solid Waste Rules state that the com-
post temperature must decline to near ambient con-
ditions (less than 100° F) provided that the decline
is not the result of improper management
of the composting process.Organic
Composting Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP
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gone above 160 degrees, you should consider turning your pile to cool it
down and prevent excessive loss of nitrogen.
Pile Moisture Content

Function
Moisture in the pile is a critical factor regarding microbial activity and

hence the decomposition process. If you have too much or too little
moisture, microbes cannot function effectively. You are targeting a moisture
content of roughly 60%. Pile moistures of 50-65% are okay, however
moisture levels approaching the outside of this range should be closely
monitored and if moisture moves outside 50-65% it should be addressed.
Moisture surrounding the pile can also adversely affect the composting
process, as it will inhibit oxygen intake through its sides. Standing water
around the piles will result in the saturation of the pile base, creating
undesirable, anaerobic conditions.
Field Tools
∞ Hands ∞ Eyes ∞ Pile Monitoring Log
How To Measure
palm. If the contents remain in a ball, depending on how tightly they

Take a small handful of compost in one hand, remove maintain their form,
excessively large particles and squeeze the material. your moisture
Watch for water dripping freely from your hand, observe content is 50-60%. If
the contents fall
the space between the fingers and look for signs of
apart, your moisture
excess moisture. If the contents in your hand begin to
level is below 50%
drip moisture from between your fingers, the moisture
content is likely above 65%. If there is no dripping, but . A visual inspection of
the moisture glistens between the fingers, the moisture the pile and the
content is roughly 60-65%. If no moisture is seen, open surrounding site will
the hand so that also provide you with
the contents feedback regarding
remain on moisture. Site
the moisture and pile
moisture may be
connected or not, and
therefore clarifying
where the moisture is
originating, from the
pile or the site
Pile Monitoring: Why and How
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(including water coming onto the site from the surrounding environment), is
important.
Record pile moisture content in a monitoring log and keep monitoring logs
on record (see Monitoring Log documents, which are part of this resource
package).
Permitted food scrap composters in Vermont are required to keep a record

of moisture content monitoring along
with their other pile monitoring records. The monitoring logs should show
that moisture content was managed within an appropriate range.
General Responses
If your moisture content (MC) is high (above 65%) you need to dry out your
mix. If the mix is not significantly above 65% MC, simply turning the pile
may achieve the desired drying effect. Turning, as well as general exposure
to dry climatic conditions can reduce pile moisture over time. In many
cases, multiple turnings over several dry days may be sufficient. One
further step along these lines is to open the top of the pile up with the
tractor bucket to create more surface area from which the air and wind can
wick away moisture. If the mix is significantly moister than 65% or in very
wet times of year, the addition of dry matter is required. This can be done
by opening the top of the pile with the bucket, forming a trough, adding
some dry matter, and then rolling or otherwise turning the pile to
incorporate the material. Windrow turners are particularly effective at
drying the pile mechanically.
If your pile moisture is below 50%, the addition of moisture is required. In
some cases impending rain may sufficiently wet the pile. When you are
adjusting pile moisture up or down you need to be careful
not to adversely impact the pile recipe in other ways, such as C:N ratios. If
you are bringing the MC down, the use of neutral C:N ingredients (those
around 2530:1) with low MC will help. Ingredients like dry, heavily bedded
horse manure, hay or small ruminant bedding often meet these criteria. If
you are bringing up your pile moisture, water may be an effective way of
increasing the moisture while not impacting the C:N (rain may easily
suffice). This can be a good use for leachate or dirty storm water collected
from the site if the pile is still actively achieving thermophilic temperatures
(to ensure pathogen destruction). If other indicators of pile health are good
and your MC is on the low side, but within the acceptable range (50-55%),
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minimizing pile agitation will help to retain as much moisture as possible
until the pile is naturally moistened by rains. Turning or flattening the pile
during rain events will increase the volume of moisture that the compost is
able to absorb. In dry climates (or in a dry Vermont summer) operators
may mix to a higher moisture content to offset the climatic drying effects.
Moisture released from the pile, which is called leachate, is indicative of
excessive pile moisture and that the pile moisture requires significant
adjusting. Site moisture from rain, runoff or flooding may also impact your
pile management. Ponding on the site is problematic and can limit site
access, turning capabilities and reduce the pile’s ability to passively respire.
Addressing the reasons for site ponding is important to prevent on-going
issues. Pile orientation should be roughly with the slope of the site to
prevent ponding. Site management practices, such as scraping ruts after
working on the site, will reduce low spots where moisture will accumulate.
Pile Structure
Function
Pile structure refers to the “architecture” of the pile. The pile’s ability to
maintain its shape and porosity over time, impacts how well the pile can be
aerated, both actively and passively. The structure of your pile is the result
of how the pile was constructed, the recipe and in particular the particle
size and density. Poor structure causes overly dense compost, slumping
piles, and can lead to anaerobic conditions.
When monitoring and wo∞ Observe the compost pile’s overall shape.
Windrows that are slumping or unable to maintain a vertical
conformation (parabolic or triangular) indicate poor structure.
∞ While performing the moisture content squeeze test, observe the
compost’s density, diversity of particle sizes, looking for a range of
visible particles from 1” and down within the mix. Woody particles in
particular provide excellent structure.
∞ Observe crusting on pile surfaces, which will reduce air exchange in
the pile.
∞ More involved field and lab tests are usually not needed unless there
is a consistent problem. Field tests for bulk density and porosity can be
found on-line and lab analysis of porosity, particle size and bulk density
are also available.
Record descriptions of pile structure in a monitoring log and keep
monitoring logs on file (see Monitoring Log documents, which are part of
this resource package).

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General Responses
Poor pile structure is an indicator that the compost recipe needs

adjustment or that there was not adequate homogenization of materials
during blending. If a pile is too dense or slumping it will result in increased
pile density
at the core of the pile, thereby diminishing the availability of oxygen to that
part of the pile. Slumping piles should have more bulking material (wood
chips or bark 5-10% of mix by volume) incorporated into them and should
be reformed.
Additionally, if the piles were large to begin with
(8+ feet tall) then the operator should consider
reducing the pile size. All compost piles will reduce in size. This is not an
indication of pile slumping but rather volume reduction. Also, if surface
crusting is observed on the pile, turn the pile to re-blend the crusted
materials and reopen the surface to air flow. Finally, efforts should be made
when constructing and turning piles to limit compaction.
Pile Odor
Function
Being aware of odor occurring in the pile will provide the operator with
indicators of the internal dynamics of the pile and may direct management
choices. Odors from compost piles and composting feedstocks are
commonly associated with the release volatile organic acids (VOAs) and
other chemical compounds such as ammonia and sulfur dioxide. Smell is a
natural byproduct of microbial decomposition, however, particularly when
composting food scraps, there is a high nuisance potential and bad smells
are an indication that the compost needs attention.
Take note of the smell of both the site and individual piles by consciously
breathing in through your nose while working around the piles, including
during monitoring and turning. You may observe a particular character to
an odor or isolate the odor to a certain location, pile, or portion of a pile.
Record descriptions of pile odors in a monitoring log and keep

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monitoring logs on site (see companion Monitoring Log documents). Be
aware that you will become accustomed to the smells on the site after time.
Careful monitoring means being able to identify an objectionable odor, even
when you may not find it off-putting yourself.
Permitted food scrap composters in Vermont are required to operate in a

manner that does not create “objectionable odors” or other “nuisance
conditions”. Continuous odor issues could result in fines and eventual
closure.
General Responses
The general character, intensity, and objectionability of odors are all

indicators of whether a particular smell is a problem. Subtle odors from the
pile may indicate potential problems or areas in which to improve upon in
the next batch of compost, but may not be of specific concern. Additionally,
some odors may be noticeable when raw feedstocks are combined, as well
as when fresh compost piles are first turned. While these unsubstantial
odors may not require an operator’s response, they should also not be
ignored. When odors are distinct, strong, and/ or present when the pile has
not been agitated they are commonly an indicator of a problem in the
compost pile and should be responded to. Common odors from compost
piles include ammonia and sulfides (“rotting garbage” smell).
Most odors are indicative of one of three things: the pile is low in carbon,
the pile is low in oxygen/high in moisture, or the pile is too dense. Often it’s
all three, as these conditions are usually related.
Adequate carbon prevents excessive nitrogen volatilization, which is

associated with most odors, and creates binding sites where odorous
compounds can be captured and metabolized before they are released to the
sur-
rounding environment. Carbonaceous materials basically act as a biological
scrubber for odors where they can be metabolized by microbes. If the pile is
low in carbon, steps should be taken to incorporate additional carbon

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material into the mix. Often, addressing deficiencies in Carbon will also
address low oxygen and high moisture conditions. For additional
suggestions to reduce pile moisture see the “General Responses”
recommendations in the “Moisture Content” section of this guide.
If the pile is too dense, the best response is to incorporate a bulking
material, something with a large enough particle size to allow more airflow
in the pile such as wood chips or bark (5-10% by volume). This can be done
in a similar manner to adding carbon or dry matter. If such a material is
not immediately available, several successive turnings may suffice to elevate
pile oxygen sufficiently.
Self Check
Multiple choice: Choose the correct answer, write the letter only.
1.Why we have to monitor compost?
A.Monitoring provides you with a feedback loop for maintaining optimal

composting conditions and producing a quality product.
B.Monitoring provide important matter on how worms eat the organic

matter.
C.Monitoring provides information on how the compost undergoe

decomposition
2. The ability to make good compost starts with?
A. A good recipe and with your ability to monitor the compost and respond
to changes as they occur.
B.A good environment and the availability of the raw materials.
C. A good practices and an appropriate knowledge on composting.
3. ___________need to be monitored regularly.
A.moisture B Temperature C. aeration
4. It is recommended that the thermometer has a _____and be inserted into

the centre of the pile in several locations at each monitoring event.
A.one metre B. two meters C. three meters

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5. There are _______ primary pile conditions to assess when employing
monitoring practices.
A. 2 B. 3 C. 4
6. If your pile moisture is below _______ the addition of moisture is required.
A.30% B 40% C. 50%
7. The temperature of a compost pile is primarily a product of the metabolic

heat being generated in the pil e from?
A. moisture B. the aeration C microbial activity
8. Pile temperatures should be taken roughly every _______ feet along the
pile.
A. 10-15 B. 15-20 C 5-20
9. If your moisture content (MC) is high (above 65%) you need to _____ your
mix.
A. dry out B. moisten C. Check
10. Moisture released from the pile, which is called ______ is indicative of
excessive pile moisture and that the pile moisture requires significant
adjusting.
A. leachate B. air C. temperature
Answer Key
1. A 9. A
2. A 10. A
3. B
4. A
5. C
6. C
7. C

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8. C

Harvesting and storing of organic fertilizer
1. Learn how to harvest the compost fertilizer; and
2. can perform the proper storing of the compost fertilizer.
How to Harvest Your Compost

You have been faithfully adding organic matter to your compost bin, and
now it’s time to reap the harvest! In the spring and summer, your plants
need lots of organic fertilizer to grow strong. Maintaining a composting bin
or pile is the best way to make your own organic fertilizer at home. When
you are getting ready to plant, or need to nourish an existing garden,
turning your compost bin gives you access to the compost.
Most of our customers use worms to help break down the compost. Our Red
Wigglers are champion composting worms that often lay eggs to continue
the population; Super Reds (European Night Crawlers) are superior for
releasing into the garden or for living and reproducing in a vermicomposting
bin that gets exposed to temperature extremes. Certain composters for red
wigglers are suitable for indoor composting, but most composting systems
are outdoors — or indoors in the winter and outdoors in the summer.

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Note: We carry a Compost Pile Turner that is great for aerating and
maintaining a healthy composting system. However, it’s designed to be use a
couple of times a month, not at harvest time.
How you harvest your compost depends mostly on the type of composting
system you have. The more basic the composting bin, the more work it will
be to harvest the compost without removing a lot of worms.
Tray Composting System
The tray-based composter is the easiest to harvest from. An example is the
Worm Factory 360, which is a best-selling item at Uncle Jim’s. You should
have been feeding only in the top tray. The lower trays should be full of rich,
dark composted matter and very few worms. So, remove the lowest trays.
Sort and screen out any undigested organic matter. If a couple of stray
worms make it into your final product, don’t worry too much. You can either
pick them out and put them in the top tray, or just leave them. These
stragglers will be happy as free-range worms.
Drawer Composter
Some composters have a drawer at the bottom. Follow manufacturer
directions to remove compost from this drawer. The undigested organic
matter – and most of the worms – will be in the top of the composter, and
the finished compost will be in the drawer. Sort, screen and apply the
compost to your plants (see “Processing” below).
Tumbler Harvesting
Tumblers let you roll the bin or crank a handle to turn it. Depending on the
type, many owners turn the compost a couple of times a week. This means
the compost, worms and finished compost will be evenly distributed. You
should stop adding scraps to the composter in the couple of weeks before
you want to harvest the compost. This will give the organic matter a chance
to break down. Scoop out your finished compost and sift through it before
applying it to your plants.
Composting Bin Harvesting Shortcuts
A large, deep plastic tote, plastic barrel or composting bin – fancy or plain –
needs to be “turned” to find the decomposed compost on the bottom.
The exception is if there is less than half a foot of black gold, organic matter
and worms in a tote composter (such as the Worm Friendly Habitat). You
might get away with relocating your worms to one corner of the bin. Simply
feed them in one place for a while and most of them should migrate to that
spot. Then you can harvest from the other parts of the tote. However, if your
worms won’t cooperate, you’ll have to turn it.

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The deep bin or compost pile needs to be “turned”. Under the rotting
material on top is fully composted humus, perfect for gardening. Get your
pitchfork and follow along:
Dig into the top of the bin and pull out the material that has not yet broken
down. This may be several inches to several feet deep, depending on recent
weather conditions, how many worms are munching away in there, bin
health, and how much you’ve added to the bin. Put this stuff (Part A) on a
plastic tarp, into a big pail or trash bin, or even on the ground (if it’s a rough
patch that doesn’t need to look beautiful later). There might be a lot of
worms in here. This stuff can be stinky, depending on the health of your
bin.
When you hit the dark, earthy-smelling layers, take inventory of your worm
population. Are there a lot of worms on the top? If so, and you want to keep
them, put another few inches or feet of worm-filled humus with the other
undigested organic matter.
Use a pitchfork or large spade to move the rich compost to another
container, such as a wheelbarrow, sack, bucket or plastic tarp (Part B).
Refill the compost bin with the partially-undigested matter and worms you
set aside in steps 1 and 2 (Part A).
If you are concerned that your finished compost has more worms than you
want to release, you can expose the top of the finished compost to a bright
light or the sun for a few hours (but don’t cook them in the sun too long).
Worms don’t like light, so they will dig down. Scrape the top off and use it as
your Part B. You can repeat this a few times to isolate the worms on the
bottom. Then, put the worm-filled bottom material back into the composter.
Processing Your Compost
The finished compost (Part B) might have sticks, fruit pits, rocks, large
seeds, produce stickers, partial avocado skins, tea bag tabs, etc. It’s a best
practice to remove most of these items, if possible, before using the compost
on your fruits and veggies. They can act as barriers to plants sprouting and
can introduce problems if they take root.
Some gardeners choose to buy or build a screen to run the compost
through. See our post about screening compost. This will also remove some
of the stray worms, which you can reintroduce into the compost bin.
You can also sort out the compost by hand.
Dig the black gold into on your garden, mix with other ingredients for
seedlings, or make compost tea.
If your vermicomposting system doesn’t have many worms in it, you could
wait a bit and see if they bounce back. Sometimes there are enough eggs to
rebuild the population. If you want to quickly boost your composting worm
population, just order worms from Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm.

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No matter how you manage your compost, know this: You are making a
good decision to turn garbage into black gold. This free fertilizer makes your
plants happy and strong, and it helps save the earth, too!
SELF CHECK
Multiple choice: Choose the correct answer, write the letter only.
1.in composting what is the most efficient decomposer?
A worms
B.insect
C.micro organism
2.it is a kind of worm that is suitable for indoors composting.
A african night crawler
B.red wigglers
C super reds
3.it is used for aerating and maintaining a healthy composting system.
A.shovel
B spade
C compost pile turner
4.What composting system is the easiest way to harvest the compost?
A tray composting system
B drawer composter
C tumbler harvesting
5. The lower trays should be full of rich, dark composted matter and very
few worms. So _______ the lowest trays.
A. remove B. Dispose C. Throw
ANSWER KEY
1. A
2. B
3. C

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4. A
5. A
6.
TASK SHEET 3.2-1
Title: Harvesting and storing Compost
Performance Objective: Given (condition), ,you should be able to

(performance) following (standard).
Supplies/Materials :
Equipment :
Steps/Procedure:
1. Move your bin over adjacent to its current location and transfer the
unfinished material back into the bin. You can then harvest the
remaining material.
2. Remove the top portion of the pile. Once you have harvested compost
from below, you can then shovel the contents back into the bin and
start adding new material on top.
3. Store fertilizer separate from other chemicals in dry conditions.
4. Extra care needs to be given to concentrate stock solutions.
Secondary containment should be used.
5. Provide pallets to keep large drums or bags off the floor. Shelves for
smaller container should have a lip to keep the containers from
sliding off easily. Steel shelves are easier to clean than wood if a spill
occurs.
6. If you plan to store large bulk tanks, provide a containment area large
enough to confine 125 percent of the largest bulk container.
7. Keep the storage are lock and clearly labeled as a fertilizer storage
area. Preventing unauthorized use of fertilizers reduces the chance of
accidental spills or theft. Label on the windows or doors of the
building give fire fighter information about fertilizer and other
products present during an emergency response to a fire or a spill.
8. Provide adequate road access for deliveries and use, in making the
storage area secure, also make it accessible, to allow getting fertilizers
and other chemicals out in a hurry
9. Never store fertilizers inside a wellhouse or a facility containing an
abandoned well.

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Assessment Method:
Demonstration with questioning
Written test

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CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Move your bin over adjacent to its current location
and transfer the unfinished material back into the bin.
You can then harvest the remaining material.
2. Remove the top portion of the pile. Once you have
harvested compost from below, you can then shovel the
contents back into the bin and start adding new material
on top.
3.Store fertilizer separate from other chemicals in dry
conditions.
4.Extra care needs to be given to concentrate stock
solutions. Secondary containment should be used.
5.Provide pallets to keep large drums or bags off the
floor. Shelves for smaller container should have a lip to
keep the containers from sliding off easily. Steel shelves
are easier to clean than wood if a spill occurs.
6.If you plan to store large bulk tanks, provide a
containment area large enough to confine 125 percent of
the largest bulk container.
7.Keep the storage are lock and clearly labeled as a
fertilizer storage area. Preventing unauthorized use of
fertilizers reduces the chance of accidental spills or theft.
Label on the windows or doors of the building give fire
fighter information about fertilizer and other products
present during an emergency response to a fire or a spill.
8.Provide adequate road access for deliveries and use, in
making the storage area secure, also make it accessible,
to allow getting fertilizers and other chemicals out in a
hurry
9.Never store fertilizers inside a wellhouse or a facility
containing an abandoned well.

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Compost is monitored based PNS indicators of fully
decomposed fertilizer.
1. Determine the characteristics of fully decomposed fertilizer; and
2. Initiate actions on how to maintain the good quality of the compost
fertilizer.
Organic fertilizer any product of plant or animal origin that has

undergone substantial decomposition either through natural or accelerated
processes through the application of microbial inoculants where the original
materials are no longer recognizable, free from any pathogens, soil-like in
texture, contains not less than 20 % organic matter (o.m.), and can supply
nutrients to plants
Pure organic fertilizer an organic fertilizer material or any
substantially decomposed product of plant or animal origin which was not
enriched with chemical ingredients to increase its nutrient content with
minimum total NPK of 1.5 %
Organic matter any material that originated from living organisms
Microbial inoculants biologically active products containing
optimum population of one or a combination of active strains of beneficial
bacteria, actinomycetes, enzymes, algae and fungi that are useful in
different biological activities, such as N2fixation, accelerated decomposition
of organic residues and solubilization/concentration of a specific element
from the soil for faster nutrient absorption by the plant
Humus that stable fraction of organic matter after a major portion of plant
and animal residues have decomposed, usually amorphous and dark in
color.
Pathogens organisms causing diseases of man, animals and crops
Plant micronutrients group of nutrients, which are essential for plant

growth but are required in small amounts (less than 1 ppm in plants).

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These include readily available forms of iron, manganese, boron,
molybdenum, copper, zinc, chlorine, and cobalt
Plant macronutrients group of nutrients needed by plants in large

amounts (usually greater than 1 ppm in plants). This can be applied
artificially in fertilizer
Compost any product of plant or animal origin that has undergone

substantial decomposition through natural processes or accelerated with the
use of microbial inoculants and/or proper C:N ratio of substrates where
traces of the original materials are still recognizable, maybe partly soil-like
in texture, and can supply nutrients to plants
Bio-organic fertilizer an organic fertilizer material of fully decomposed

product of plant or animal origin which is fortified with beneficial microbes
and enzymes to eliminate pathogens, render inert foreign impurities such as
pharmaceuticals and antibiotics, and improve the availability of the
material’s macro and micronutrient contents for faster absorption by the
plant.
Treated animal manure (TAM) a bio-organic fertilizer made from pure
animal manure treated with microbial inoculants to kill pathogenic bacteria
and render inert pharmaceuticals and antibiotics ingested by the fowl,
through a hastened fermentation and decomposition process and enriched
with beneficial microbes and enzymes to help release the manure’s full
macro and micronutrient contents for faster absorption by the
Organic fertilizer must conform to the requirements specified in this
standard.
Physical
An organic fertilizer must be substantially decomposed as evidenced by the
following characteristics:
Material -The original materials are biodegradable.
Color -Color is from brown to black.
Texture -Must be friable soil-like texture.
Moisture Content -Must not exceed 30 %.
Odor -Must emit the completely decomposed substrate.

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pure organic fertilizer must not emit the original or partially
decomposed substrate.
Organic matter -must at least be 20 %
Carbon nitrogen ratio -C:N ratio must not be higher than 15:1.
Temperature -The temperature of the product must not be higher than 30
oC.
Germination test -the product shall show a % seed germination higher or
equal with the control or checkplant.
Nutrient Content -Nutrient content is specified as:
Specifications of pure/fortified organic fertilizer
Specification Level
Total NPK 1.5% min
C:N 15:1
Moisture content < 30 %
Organic matter > 20 %
Test for pathogens for organic fertilizer -Organic fertilizer must be free of
pathogens (man, animals/livestock & crops).
Specification Level
Fecal streptococci < 5 x 102 colonies/g
Total coliforms < 5 x 102 colonies/g
Salmonella 0
Infective parasites 0
Allowable level of heavy metals in organic fertilizer

Heavy metal Maximum allowable level in
compost (mg/kg dry weight)
Pb 750 - 500
Hg 5
Cd 5
As 5
Cu 300
Cr 150
Ni 50
Zn 50
Euro - BSWM
Presence of weed seeds -Seeds may be present but no viable weed seeds
must be present.

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Absence of Foreign Materials -Plastics, aluminum wrappers, stones and
other inert materials must be totally removed from the product.
Sampling -Organic fertilizer must be sampled in accordance with PNS 85.
Test Methods -Testing is made in accordance with the following methods:
Moisture and volatile content – Annex A; Organic matter – Annex B; Organic
carbon – Annex B; Germination test – Annex C; and Total nitrogen – Annex
D.
Organic fertilizer weighing more than 5 kg must be packed in woven
polypropylene sack conforming to PNS 95 with polyethylene liner while those
weighing 5 kg or less must be packed in polyethylene bag with a suitable
thickness to afford maximum protection from normal hazard of
transportation and handling.
Sizes -Organic fertilizer is packed with a tolerance of ±0.4 % as shown
below:
Mass, net weight (kg) Allowed variance (Tolerance), in
grams
50 ± 200
25 ± 100
10 ± 40
5 ± 20
1 ±4
Marking and labelling

Information must be legibly and indelibly printed on the bag in conformity
to PNS 1033:
Left panel
Manufacturer/distributor, name and address
Date of formulation
Lot no.____
Color band – violet-purple
Front
Name of material (Pure or Fortified organic fertilizer), Trade name or brand
name
Guaranteed analysis

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Total N (%) Ammoniacal nitrogen (%) Nitrate nitrogen (%)
Total P2O5 (%) -Available P2O5 (%)
Total K2O (%) -Water-soluble K2O (%)
C:N ratio
Moisture content
Trace elements and secondary elements (optional) (ppm for each
element, if any)
Optional: animal or plant substrate without ratio.
Net mass in kg
FPA registration number
Back
Contents (Net mass, in kg.)
Annex A -Determination of total water (Thermal oven method)

This method determines total water in mixed fertilizers. It is not applicable
to yield samples of volatile substances other than water at drying
temperature.
Apparatus
Constant temperature oven
Weighing dish with cover
Desiccators containing anhydrous magnesium perchlorate or other suitable
desiccant.
Procedure
1.Weigh 2 g of sample into a tared weighing dish.
2. Place the dish, with cover removed, in the drying oven at 100 oC ± 1 oC
for 5 hours.
3.Remove from the oven, cover the dish and cool in the desiccator.
4.Weigh and determine the weight loss. Repeat procedure until constant
weight loss is attained.
Annex B

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Determination of organic carbon and organic matter (Walkley-black
method)
Reagents
Potassium dichromate solution. Dissolve 49.04 g of K2Cr2O7 in 1 liter of
distilled water. Dichromate should be dried at 200 oC for 2 hours.
H2SO4, concentrated.
H3PO4, 85 %.
Diphenylamine indicator. Dissolve 0.5 g diphenylamine in 20 mL distilled
water. Add 100 mL H2SO4 and mix.
FeSO4 solution, 0.5 N. Dissolve 140 g of FeSO4 or 200 g of Fe(NH4)2SO4
in 15 mL concentrated H2SO4. Make up to 1 liter with distilled water.
Procedure
-Weigh 0.025 g sample.
-Place in Erlenmeyer flask and add 10 mL K2Cr2O7.
-Add 20 mL H2SO4.
NOTE If color changes immediately to green, reduce the sample. Stand for
30 minutes. Dilute to 200 mL.
-Add 10 mL of 85%H3PO4, then add 1.0 mL diphenylamine indicator.
-Titrate against FeSO4, end point is blackish green.
Calculation
Calculate for % organic carbon (o.c.)
10 N of FeSO4 = Vol. of FeSO4 used
(V blank – V sample) x N FeSO4 x 0.399 % o.c. = Weight of sample
Calculate for % organic matter
% organic matter = % o.c. x 1.72
Annex C
Germination test
1CCME Compost maturity criteria
The CCME deemed a compost mature if it meets two of the following
requirements:
Production NCII
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◊ C:N ≤ 20 ◊ Oxygen uptake ≤ 150 mg O2/kg volatile solids/hour ◊
Germination rate of cress (Lepidium sativum) and radish (Raphanus sativus)
seeds in compost must be greater than 90 % of the germination rate of the
control sample, and plant growth of the compost-soil mix must not differ by
greater than 50 % when compared to a control.
OR ◊ Compost must be cured for at least 21 days; and ◊ Compost will not
reheat upon standing to greater than 5 oC above ambient Philippine
temperature.
OR ◊ Compost must be cured for a minimum of 21 days, and ◊ Reduction
of organic matter must be > 60 % by weight.
OR ◊ If no other determination of maturity is made, the compost must be
cured for 6month period under aerobic conditions. This curing stage begins
when the pathogen reduction process is complete and the compost no longer
reheats to thermophilic temperatures.
Table C.1 – Classification of compost

Catergory
CCME (provinces and territories) A, B
2BNQ AA, A, B
3 AAFC One category based on trace
element limits of B
Canadian Council of Ministers of the Environment

Bureau de Normalisation du Quebec
Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
Under the BNQ standard, compost may be categorized as AA, A or B.
Types AA and A are of higher quality than type B. The requirements for Type
B compost are considered to be the minimum necessary to obtain good
compost. Under the CCME guideline, two compost categories have been
established. Category A compost can be used for all types of applications: on
agricultural lands, in residential gardens, in horticultural operations, or
nursery and other enterprises. Category A criteria for trace elements are
achievable using source separated municipal solid waste feedstock. Category
B compost has restricted use. It may be controlled under provincial or
territorial regulations. For ‘fertilizer’ use, the AAFC recognizes only one class
of compost, reflective of product safety criteria. It is based on the limits of
Production NCII
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category and type B compost for trace elements and reflects the
requirements of the standards for pathogenic organism, maturity and the
presence of sharp objects. Due to the variability of results and variations
on the germination test procedures by many scientists, Warman (1999)
suggested that more research using different test plants and other bioassay
procedures must be done in order to achieve a universal test procedure for
evaluating compost maturity.
*CCQC Compost maturity index
The CCQC uses a minimum of three parameters:
◊ C: N ≤ 20 ◊ Group A tests
o Carbon dioxide release or respiration
o Oxygen demand
o Dewar self-heating test
◊ Group B tests
o Ammonia:nitrate test
o Ammonia concentration
o Seed germination or plant growth test
Method Units Ratings

Very mature Mature Immature
CO2 test C g-1 day-1 <2 2-8 >8
Ammonia:Nitrate No units < 0.5 0.5 – 3 >3
Total ammonia mg kg-1, dry < 100 00 < 500 > 500
Seed basis > 90 80 – 90 < 80
germination % of control > 90 80 - 90 < 80
Plant trials % of control
Plant assay for determining compost quality

Germination is the emergence and development of the seedling to a stage
where its essential structures indicate whether or not it is able to develop
further into a satisfactory plant under favourable conditions in soil (Basra,
1995).
Zucconi et al. (1981) proposed germination tests using Lepidium sativum L.
and a compost extract to determine compost maturity. Some modifications
to the procedure such as seed soaking, direct seeding into compost or
Production NCII
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compost-peat mixture, use of centrifuging instead of filtering to separate
compost from the supernatant have been made (Inbar et al., 1990; Inbar et
al., 1993; Grebus et al., 1994; Keeling et al., 1994; Gajdos, 1997; Warman,
1999; Buckerfield et al., 1999). Variations in the test plant species have
also been made such as the use of Chinese cabbage (Warman and Termeer,
1996; Warman, 1999), ryegrass (Inbar et al., 1993), and komatsuna
(Chanyasak et al., 1983).
Plants as indicators have been used along with chemical assay in
investigations on compost and vermicompost maturity. Radish and marigold
are among the commonly used in plant bioassays.
Plant seeds that may be used for germination test: Radish, marigold, or
Chinese cabbage Seed vigor test (Source: Ang Lopez, 2001)
Line a petri dish with filter paper moistend with deionized water. Place 20
test seeds on the filter paper and keep the petri dish in the dark at 22 °C.
Count the number of germinated seeds after 5 days. (Germination count
must not be less than 85 %. Adjustment on the number of seeds to be used
in the Germination Count Test must be adjusted if the germination in the
seed vigor test is less than 85 %.
Germination test using 1:4 (w/v) or 1:8 (w/v) Compost extract (Warman
1999)
Line a petri dishes (9 cm) with Whatman No.1 paper. Moistened the filter
paper with 5 mL of the extract. The filter paper in control petri dish must be
moistened with 5 mL of deionized water.
In three replications, place 30 seeds of radish, or marigold placed in the
dishes and germinate in the dark at 20 °C. Take germination count after 48
hours.
Direct seed germination test (Warman 1999b)
The direct seed germination test (Warman, 1999b) on radish, marigold and
upland cress, done in three replicates, was conducted by mixing
vermicompost with Pugwash sandy loam soil in 5 % and 10 % (w/w)
combinations. Seventy-five mL of moist vermicompost soil mix was placed in
each cell pack. Each treatment was seeded with 30 seeds of each test plant.
Moisture in the cell was maintained by adding deionized water as required.
The cell packs were kept under 12 to 14 hours of light daily at 24 °C ±2 ºC
in the plant growth chamber. Germination count was taken ten days after
seeding, after which, the plantlets were thinned down to 2 in each cell.
Annex D
Determination of total nitrogen
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Bacarisas
Reagents
H2SO4, concentrated.
Salt mixture. Mix together 100 g K2SO4, 10g CuSO4 • 5H2O and 1.0 g Se
or 1.4 g SeO2.
Sodium hydroxide, 40 %. Dissolve 400g NaOH flakes in 1 liter distilled
water. Cool in water bath with running water.
Boric acid, 2 %. Dissolve 20 g boric acid in 1 liter distilled water. Heat to
hasten dissolution.
Mixed indicator. Dissolve 0.099 g bromocresol green and 0.066 g methyl
red in 100 mL ethanol.
Standard H2SO4, 0.03 N.
Procedure
Digestion (NOTE – Run a blank test on the reagents).

Nitrate free samples (Organic fertilizers and samples that do not contain
nitrates).
-1.0 g sample 2.0 g salt mixture
-Shake or mix before digestion
-40.0 mL conc. H2SO4
- Dilute to 250 mL after cooling and mix.
Organic fertilizers and samples containing nitrate (NH4NO3, KNO3, etc.)
1.0 g sample or 0.5 g sample
3.0 mL H2SO4 – salicylic acid mixture (1.0 g salicylic acid + 30 mL conc.
H2SO4)
a) Thoroughly mix and let it stand for 30 minutes.
b) Add 5.0 g sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O2)
c) Shake and let it stand for 5 minutes. Digest with slow heating (preheated
at setting 5) until foaming lessens (5 to 10 minutes). Let cool. Continue
digestion until clear solution results. Dilute to 250 mL after cooling and
mix.
Distillation

Production NCII
Bacarisas
Take 20 mL aliquot of the solution and transfer to a distilling apparatus.
Add 25 mL of 40 % NaOH. Collect 50 mL to 75 mL distillate using a receiver
containing 10 mL of 2 % boric acid solution and 0.5 mL mixed indicator.
Titrate distillate with 0.03 N H2SO4.
Self Check
Multiple Choice. Chose the correct answer.
1.Color is used in determining the good quality of the compost. What
specific color is it?
a. Brown to black b. Black to brown
c. Red to orange d. white to black
2.Texture is used in determining the good quality of the compost. What
specific texture is it?
a. Friable b. Coarse- textured
c. Coarse to medium-textured d. Fine to medium- textured
3.It is the stable fraction of organic matter after a major portion of plant and animal residues
have decomposed.
a. soil b. sand c. Humus d clay
4. Any material that originated from living organisms.
a. organic fertilizer b. Organic matter

c. Humus d. Soil
5. Group of nutrients needed by plants in large amounts.
a. Micro nutrients b. Macro nutrients

c. Trace elements d. Essential elements
6.Moisture content of the compost fertilizer must not exceed to _______
percent?.
a. 20 percent b. 30 percent c.40 percent d. 50 percent
7._________ is organisms causing diseases of man, animals and crops.
a. Insects b. Pathogens c. bacteria d. fungi
8. It is a tests using Lepidium sativum L.
a. Petri dish b. Seed box c. Plant assay
9.It is a method used in determining total water of compost fertilizer.

Production NCII
Bacarisas
a thermal oven method b. water content test c. moisture test
10.C:N ratio must not be higher than_________.

a. 15:1 b.20:1 c. 25:1 d. 30:1
Answer Key
1a 6. b
2a 7. b
3c 8. c
4b 9. a
5b 10. a

Production NCII
Bacarisas
Production NCII
Bacarisas

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PARTS OF A COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL PACKAGE

Performance Criteria Checklist

Self Check Answer Key

Learning Outcome Summary

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

Raise Organic Chicken Raising Organic Chicken AGR612301

Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611306

Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611301

Produce Various Producing Various AGR611302

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: Produce Organic Fertilizer

MODULE TITLE : Producing Organic Fertilizer

NOMINAL DURATION: 21 Hours

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

1. PNS for organic and mineral fertilizer

1. Appropriate composting methods are applied based on production

The participants will have access to:

1. Tools and materials:

* Moisture meter * Trichoderma * African night crawler

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

1. Demonstration with oral questioning

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Compost and Harvest Fertilizer

Learning Activities Special Instructions

Perform Job sheet 3.2-1 Observe your trainer performing the

Answer Self Check 3.2-3 compare your answer to the answer

Perform Task Sheet 3.2-1 Observe your trainer performing the

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

WHAT IS COMPOSTING? Composting is the biological decomposition of

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

RAPID COMPOSTING METHOD

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Why double dig?

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

1.Improves the Physical Properties of Soils

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

2. Substances are reduce from large to small materials which continue to

4.___________ a mix of wheat straw, gypsum, and horse or chicken manure.

Enumeration: What are the benefits of using composting in agriculture?

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Why compost at home?

• It involves little effort, equipment, expense and expertise.

Let’s get started.

1. How much space do you have at

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Organic Agriculture Date Compiled: Document No. TM1- OAP

Collecting Your Household Food Waste

Backyard Composting Step-By-Step