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V6 Friction Ring Replacement

By Ken

Introduction
Ok so we have that evil rattle from the left hand rear bank of cylinders.
Don't like it? Here's how it can be sorted...

Instructions
1. First thing is to remove the inlet manifold and all them plug sockets
and pipes. It's not so bad as it looks to be around an hour to do.
2. Now rotate the engine until you see the paint marks on the rear
cams line up - the marks will be on the helical gears there also may
be a punch mark as well. Now check that the rear exhaust cam
HLA’s are all off the cam lobes - try to rotate each HLA to make
sure. It’s possible on number 6 cylinder they may be a little tight but
don’t worry.

Now remove the cam thrust housing as shown


3. It will only lift about 25mm but just enough to get your finger in to
apply new gasket compound. Now next is to remove the camshaft
bearing caps. When you do this make sure you slowly work you
way across, loosening from left to right now lift out the cam and
take a look at the evil little friction spring .
4. The friction spring is just a big concave washer that loads up the
friction gear, this gear is just one tooth bigger so when under load
from the rotation of the engine itkeeps the main helical gears under
load so stopping gear rattle, because the friction gear is one tooth
bigger it has to slip a little, so what we have is no more than a
simple clutch.
5. OK now to remove that big nut, it’s 41mm and tight. I never had
that size socket so I had to resort to using a plumbing wrench and a
rag it came of just fine - I held the main gear in vice using some
wooden blocks. So with the nut off we can now remove the friction
spring and gear. Take a look at the gear - if it has a groove worn in
from the spring you should replace that too but you may not have to
for a while.
6. 0K clean up time now and fitting the new parts. Now the fun bit
when you reassemble the new spring. You have to make sure that
the friction gear is just past the main helical gear tooth at the point
of our paint mark or dot - if you look close you can see that the
friction gear and helical drive gear teeth flow together. Get his
wrong and the cam wont go back in snug and you will run the risk
of snapping the cam so get this right!!!
7. So with luck our cam is now sat back in the head and we can
replace the bearing caps - remember what way they faced??? slowly
work you way from left to right and do not tighten them right down
at first, just do it in stages. Next we have to get some gasket
compound under the thrust cover, I used silicone compound and
could just get my finger in there. There is a cam shaft end plug that
should realy be pushed in after bolting down but we have no room
so coat this with silicone and sit in place first and bolt up the thrust
housing, time for tea? You deserve it! Right, now rotate the engine
and make sure all is well. Replace the the inlet manifold and and all
them pipes and plugs.
8. Restart the engine and listen to the change in engine sound. It is
well worth the effort take it from me, friction spring is around £9 it
took me 4hrs in total

Founded 17th October 2002. Site design by "Ronin" Adam Jakielski

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