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    11530511

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    United States Patent USOL1S30511B2 a2} (10) Patent No, US 11,530,511 B2 Yasin (45) Date of Patent: Dec. 20, 2022 (8) GARMENT PLEATIN 6 References Cited (71) Applicant: Petit Pli Limited, London (GB) sags eee nacarirmeall (72) Inventor: Ryan Yasin, London (GB) 2134690 A 10/1938 White oe (79) Asignoe: PETIT PLL LIMITED, London (GB) ee Date (4) Notice: Sabet any dimes the em of his (Costin) patent ened or tse unr 35 USC. S80) by 90 a FOREIGN PATENT DOCUMENTS 2 x lore 8 a199 (21) Appl Nas tongs a eee ae (22) PCP Eos Jan 28, 2008 (Contin) (88) PCPNos —PeTGHan8NsITIs OTHER PUBLICATIONS $371 6x, A como pie tet om aio les og a (2) Deke Des. 18,2019 Fob his retin hytong ny Eset (57) PCT Pv. Nos Wonniase794 ae TP Date De. 27,2018 ©) Primary Bsaniner—¥ Grin Hl us anos AI Os. 22,2000 (78) Aton, Ago, oF Frm — Froaon & Py, Pa (90) Foregn Appleton Porty Data 4m, 20,2017 (6) 82 67 apsreact ©) mec. A math of peting » Stic, the mtd comping Doss ina «2mso1y plein the faba wih few plein poco To este ain ti Gave fst set of pl in he fabri sng ew ex peti he (Comins) Uric wit soon plating procs to eet 4 se «) us. of plein te ac longs second a ilo th fit ¢ ass 113 201300 A410 1100 sxn wernt so tf ples ae pleted ver he (Bois, Aare 00 201801 Daas 1702 est of pet and when se finest ps (201301) of spline pes ving subtly in te pane of the (58) Fel of Casein Sate Tbr and We seconds of pt of eine ce Dos) 1/0 DOG! 1/02; DO6I 1404; DOG] 1V06; DOG! 108; DOG) 1/10: DOG! 1/12; AID LUO SIE] 33°00 plication file for complete search history pleats whieh stand out of the plane of the Fabric. 28 Claims, 8 Drawing Sheets yeast US 11,530,511 B2 Page 2 (3) mec FOREIGN PATENT DOCUMENT AMI 3300 (2006.01) a ea oes vor (2006.01) Be oooui2 Al* 6 Be Gono Al” G1990 a” aootosasts A 33001 60) References Cited ie donna? A 102001 ie aomiisina A» “43002 4 $ ie aomuisia A” 42002 US, PATENT DOCUMENTS By mista A 42002 4308450. A © LDIOSI Kleber ot 110076 136227 OTHER PUBLICATIONS 4725486 A * 21988 Corbiore Does 12 “2S152 _Theworldof pleas explained! blog datod May 20,2015, eieved SB38165 A * 81904 Takizawa DOG! 12 at hpe:byhandondon com blogs by-handlondon 26070276 26169 R wordt pleaseplained, by Examiner on Fb, 10, 2022 (Yea: 5356055 A * 10998 ‘Takizawa Does V12 2015) 26169 R Types of Pleats bog dad Ma. 13,2012 setoved at pe SS10I67 A * 411996. Cand AMC HIT onlneaviestore comblog ypes-oF eats, by Examine on Feb ena 10.2022 (Yea 2012)" 6506219 B2* 1/2003 Kondo AMID2708 DCT Incmational Seach Report and Writen Opinion dated Sep ‘811g 27,2018 for In. App. No, PCT GB2OIS0S1715, fom which Ue 790.741 B2* 32010 Ors ow 18283 insam applicton fs based. 9 ps 22028 GB Pat App, No. 17098127, Seach Report under Seton 175) 104156039 B2* 122018. Komaow AALLL3U0? dated Now’ 8 2017, 3 pope. aorTinogt237 Al* "22017 Ya MIBLIS aorTinosso0s AL* 32017 Nondstrom MID 102 * cited by examiner U.S. Patent Dee. 20, 2022 Sheet 1 of 8 US 11,530,511 B2 7} Figure 2 US 11,530,511 B2 Sheet 2 of 8 Dee. 20, 2022 U.S. Patent Figure 3 LLL (LLL, (LLL, LLL, LL Figure 4 U.S. Patent Dee. 20, 2022 Sheet 3 of 8 US 11,530,511 B2 Pleat garment with a first set of pleats along a first garment axis Pleat garment with a second set of pleats along a second garment axis Figure 6 U.S. Patent Dee. 20, 2022 Sheet 4 of 8 US 11,530,511 B2 16 24 U.S. Patent Dec. 20, 6 4 months old 2022 Sheet 5 of 8 Figure 9 expansion US 11,530,511 B2 36 er] Figure 10 3 years old Figure 11 a 2 & ix U.S. Patent Dec. 20, 2022 Sheet 7 of 8 US 11,530,511 B2 Figure 13 U.S. Patent Dee. 20, 2022 Sheet 8 of 8 US 11,530,511 B2 Figure 14 US 11,530,511 B2 1 T PLEATING GARI RELATED APPLICATIONS ‘This application is a 35 U.S.C. 371 national stage fling from Intemational Application Ne. PCTIGB2018051715, filed Jun. 20, 2018, which claims priority to British Appli cation No. 1709843.7 filed Jun. 20, 2017, the teachings of ‘which are incorporated herein by reference “The present application relates to method of pleating, and to garments and textiles produced via the method. The present upplication relates particularly, but not exclusively, fo oaterwaar for children, Dlestng typically refers toa process of folding fabric to rete floss ease or texture in a garment. nits most basic oem, a pleat includes atleast ane fold line and at least one placement ine, To construct a pleat a portion of fabric is typically fold along a pre-lefined fld line, and the fold thar is thus created is aligned with and placed onto a pre-defined placement line, The fabric may then be pressed to fix the pleat. Garments often include multiple pleats, ‘which are often spaced equally apart ‘Many ferent types of pleat are known in the textile industry. A common type of pleat is Nat (oe Knife) pleat, Which is a pleat baving a single fold line and a single placement line that i pressed 1o ie fat against the fabri or farment in which the pleat is formed. If there is more than fone flat pleat formed in the fabric, all of the Bat pleats ‘usually fae the same direction, and the undespeat i usually smaller than the overeat. ‘An accordion pleat i a special case ofa fat peat, where the underpleat and the overpleat are the sume size, soch that afer pressing the finished pleats stand out ofthe plane ofthe Tabic or garment, making the final pleated fabric or garment resemblean econo, Usually an aceontion ple is siller than a flat plest. Sometimes the term “crystal pleat” is sometimes used to refer 10 a small accordion pleat, eg. having a pleat size of 23 mum, ‘When designing snd manufacturing clothing for chikdren, ‘tis acommon problem that children grow quickly, aa thus regularly outgrow clothing tht is otherwise sil in good condition, Pareats thus often have wo replace ele that is still wearable simply because it ao longer fits their child This ean be both expensive and wastefl Tig an object of the present invention 40 provide an ‘alternative method constrvction for paemeat, a well 38a expandable fabric for # garment ‘According to first aspoct ofthe iaveation we provide a ‘method of pleating a fabric the method comprising: pleating the fabric with a fist pleating process to create a fist set of pleats in the fabric alg a first axis; pleating the fabric with {second pleating process lo ereate a cond st of pleats in the fabric along a second axis different to the frst axis, ‘wherein the second set of plats are plated over te ist set ofpleats and wherein te frst set of pleats sa set of in-plane pleats Iying substantially i the plane of the Fabrie and the econd set of ples is a set of out-of-plane pleas which Stand ost of the plane of the fabric. Therefore, the ist set of| pleats i a set of in-plane pleats lying substantially in the plane of the fabric after the fist pleating process and the Second set of pleats is-a set of out-of-plane pleats which Stand ont of the plane ofthe fabric after the second pleating process AA fabric pleated in line with the above method has a substantially attic behaviour That s, wen sch a fabric is subjected toa tensile stress (€g stretched) along the fist ‘xis, iil abo undergo an expansion along the second axis 2 This behaviour isin contrast to most conventional fibres, which typically undergo a contraction along sacond axis when stretched along a frst axis. Furthermore, the combi nation ofa fist set of in-plane pleas (ie. a typeof pleat that lies in the plane ofthe fabric after being formes or prested) slong ist axis and a second set of out-of-plane pleats (.. ‘type of pleat that stands up from the plane of the fabric afer being formed or pressed) along a second axis enables the fabric to expand smoothly and reliably’ along both axes, thereby enancing the contollbiliy and predictability of the auxetic behaviour of the labs ‘material pleated in accordance to the abowe meso is useful for clothing, particularly children’s clothing, 2s a fmt that is mad from such a fabric will expand simil- taneously in two dreotions, and ois advantageously able 19 sccommedate the growth of the wearer and facilitate The ‘dressing ofthe wearer. Funber, the combination of ist set of incplane pleats long a frst axis and a second set of out-of-plane pleats along a second axis enables the garment to achieve an optimal balance between aesthetics and teh- nical performance, so that the garment is both aesthetically appealing and adaptable fo the growth ofa paniculae wearer. The material pleted in accordance to the above method Js not exclusively for use in garments and may be also used jn any form of expandable or deployable equipment such as somge equipment, backpacks, Iigaage, tents, dyaamie rook ing, emergency siclters or sictches, The pleated material in scoordance tothe above method allows for ease of packing tnd storage for later use ax well asthe case of transportation fom one location to another, al of which enable the pleted material to be use in a wide range of applications and not only in garments The fist set of pleats and the second set of pleats preferably comprise continuous pleas “The ‘it set of pleats and the second set of pleas preferably extend over substantially the entire fabric “The gamient may be steamed after each pleating process to fix the pleats. Fach steaming prooess may take up to 40 minutes, for instance 20, 25, 28 or 30 minutes, Steam ‘may not be necessary, especially with some fabrics, s0ch a8 synthetic fabrics, for which the pleating process is perma nent, Steaming for too long may damage the fabric “The second axis is preferably 75-00 degrees to the fist axis, for example 8090 degrees, or 85-90 degrees. Most preferably the second axis is substantially othogonal to the first axis (ie, 90 degrees to the fist axis). Tis helps 10 ensure the fabric grew Tineaely along the second axis it is stretched along the frst axis. The Hirst set of pleas isa set of in-plane pleas, The frst set of pleats may comprise a single typeof in-plane pleat or ‘combination of diferent types of in-plane plats. Profi ably te first set of pleats ib a set of equally spaced fat pleats. Each flat pleat preferably has an overplest depth less than 15 mm, for instance 2 or 3-15 mm, 5-12 mm, and preferably 7-10 mm. The undespleat depth may be less than the overpleat dept, for example less than 12 mm, such 36 2 3-10 mm, 7-10 mm, and preferably 7 mm. Altematively, the undeeplet depth may be the same as or larger than the foverpleat depth. Constricting the fist set of pleats a Hat pleats conveniently allows the fabric to be pleated a socond time, because flat pleats lie in the plane ofthe Fabre. The second se of pleats se of out-of pane pleas. The second set of pleats may comprise a single type of outof plane pleat or a combination of dillerent Iypes of outol plane pleats, Preferably, the socond set of pleats isa st of ‘equally spaced secordion pleats. Fach accordion pleat may havea depth ofS-10 mm, and preferably between 7-10 mm. US 11,530,511 B2 3 The first and second sets of pleats may comprise pleats that are not equally spaced. The spacing between consceu- ve pleats may vary throughout the fabric or gument andor say altemate between dierent spacing values. The spacing between consecutive pleats may follow a pat sequence of diferent spacing values The inventor has fad that this specific combination of flat and accordion pleat types most reliably prodvces an auxetic stoctire in the widest range of fabric types and Tibric thicknesses. Furthermore, out of the Iype of pleats ‘mentioned below, the combination of flat and accordion pleats guarantees an optimal deformation or expansion pee Tormance for a wide ringe of fabric types and fabric thick: esses. The inventor also found thet garments made from such fabric are more likely to reliably return to its original tundeformed state with minimal wrinkles or creases than tarments made with fabries having different combinations ‘fpleats. The build-up of wrinkles or ereases ean negatively allt the reliability of the expansion peoperies of the pleated fabric. Additionally, the combination of at and ovordion pleat iypes provides a stracture resembling a ied oof. Such a Yike-roo? structure directs Muid or solid Particles off the outer surfece of the garment or fabric and provents the fli solid particles from being trapped and ‘ceumulating within the pleas, thereby improving the ‘weatherablty of the fabri¢ or garment. The structure pr: vided by the combination of flat and accordion plet types also provides the fabric or garment with symmetrical and consistent properties throughout the material. This means that, for example, the weathorbility or aerodynamic prop- eis of he fabric or garment are the same on both ses of the garment and throughout the pleted material, However, its also possible forthe second vet of pleats to comprise pleats such as flat (or knife) pleats, box pleas, ‘inverted pleats, sunrey (or sunburst) pleas or crystal ples. Wiss possible forthe fist se of pleats to comprise pleats such as Box pleas, inverted pleas, crystal pleat, accordion pleats of sunray (or sunburst) pleats. It is preferred that pleat which lies inthe plane of te fabrie when pressed is ‘sed for the fist plat, To instance box plats of inverted pleats, as using a first pleat which lies Nat means tha the Second pleating process eat be applied without damaging the appearance ofthe frst set of pleats. Furthermore, other ‘ypes of flatlying pleat than knife pleats typically result in thier fabric onee the second pleating process hs beet applied, thus knife pleats are preferred "The depth ofthe second pleats may be Jess than the depth ‘of the first pleats, such thatthe fabric expands more along the frst axis than along te second axis “The method may further eomprise the step of forming one ‘ormore holes in aa underpleat of at least one plat i the fst set of plats, The bole or holes may’ be formed by punching ‘rcuting, €, laser cutting. The fabric may be pated prior to forming he holes, and te pleats stretched par so thatthe holes cam be formed inthe underplets. Preferably a plurality ‘of holes is formes in the underpleat ofthe fst st of pleats ‘at equally spaced intervals, ex. one for every thre, Wo or fone of the second set of pists. TFomming holes in the inderpleat conveniently provides ventilation 10 the fabric. Such a fabric can be used for ‘inwear, as the ventilation holes are concealed in the “undeepleat seh tat ain is diverted away’ Fem the hoe By the overpeat, Preferably the fubric comprises a garment, and preferably the first and second pleating processes are applicd to the tzarment. The plesting may be applied ater the garmcat has been flly sewn, but before any fastenings of trimmings 4 have been added to the garment. The garment may be a single layer gament, or may be a multi-layer gament, for Jnstance a garment including a lining. Where the gament comprises slewves, prior to the fist pleating proces, the method may further comprise the step Df folding the slaeves at an elbow region such that a sloove axis extends substantially parallel to dhe fist garment axis, ‘ith wrist portion ofthe sleeve towards lower edge ofthe ament. The sleeve folds preferably kept the same for both the first and second plesting processes. This belps improve the movement of the sleove whea the garment i Wont, ad helps to ensure that each sleeve grows along its axis a the same rte thatthe body ofthe garment grows along its axis Where the method is applied 10a sewn garment, the first axis is preferably selected to be substantially verial when the garment is worn, and the seooad ais is preferably sclcted to be substantially horizontal when the garment is ‘wom, This results in a consistent expansion along the length and width ofthe garment as the wearer grows. Preferably the fabri is a synthetic fabri, as synthetic fubris tend to retain plats beter than natural bres. Most preferably the fabric i» PU (polyurethane) coated non or polyester. Alternatively, the fabricmay bes syathetc/natral Abe blend, such as polycotton. Ifthe fabric is to be sewn Jno a garment peor fo pleating the fabric is preferably thin, and may have a Weight of less than 4 oz per square ya {about 140 grams per square meter or gsm), and preferably hs a weight of approximately 2 07 per square yard (about 70 gsm). Alteratively ifthe fabric 1 to be pleated prior 19 sewing, the fabric may have a weight of up 10 12.02 per square yanl (about 410 ysmn), eg. 5-10 07 per square yard (about 170-340 gsm), oF 810 o2 per square yard (about 270-340 gsm). According fo a second aspect ofthe invention there is provided a method of consiicting a garment, whercin the method comprises sewing a labric into fst garment layer, fnd pleating the first garment layer, sewing @ second fabric into a second garment layer of substantially the same size and shape othe frst yarment layer, soa fo provide a fining to the firs garment layer, and pleating the second yarment Jayer; and sewing the fist garmeat layer to the second parmeat layer, wherein both garment layers are pleated in fccordanee with the method of the fist aspect of the invention. The second garment layer is preferably pleted with the same pleat stecture (i.e size of pleat, type of pleat, and layout of pleats) asthe fist garment layer in order tensive that both garment layers expand inthe same manner when the garment is worn. However, the second garment layer could be pleated with a dillerent pleat structure (.. sizeof pleat, type o pleat, and layout of pleats) to that ofthe fiat patment layer Insulation may be inserted hereon the first and second parment layers. An insulated. and expandable outerwear armeat can thus be conveniently prxiuced vie this method. ‘According to thir aspect of the invention, a fabric is provided comprising fist so of pleas long is axis ad ‘sccond st of pleats along a second axis ifferent to the fst fxis, wherein the sconnd sot of pleats are pleated over the first set of pleats and wherein the frst set Of pleats is a sot of inplane pleats lying substantially in the plane of the Tare and the second set of pleats isa set of out-of-plane pleats whieh stand out ofthe plane of the fabric. The fabric may be pleated according to the method of the frst aspect of the invention. Therefor, the first set of pleats is set of| plane pleats iying substantially inthe plane ofthe fabric afer the first pleating process and the second set of pleats is US 11,530,511 B2 5 set of out-of-plane pleas which stand out of the plane of the fabric ater the second pleating process. According to a fourth aspect of the invention, a garment is provided comprising fist set of pleats along a fist axis second set of pleas along a second axis dillereat to the fist axis, wherein the second sot of pleats are pleated over the frst set of pleats and wherein the first set of pleats i a sc ofinsplane plats Iying substantially in the plane of the {garment and te second set of pleats isa et of ont-ofsplane pkeats which stand out of the plane of the garment. The fzrment may be pleated according to the method ofthe frst fspect ofthe invention. Therefore, the frst set of pleats a set of in-plane pleats lying substantially in the plane of the tment itr the frst pleating process and the second set of| pleats isa et of out-of-plane pleats which stand out of the plane ofthe garment after the second pleating process The first set of pleats and the second set of pleats preferably extend over substantially the entire fabric or arment “The second axis is preferably 75-90 degrees to the fit axis, for example 80-90 depres, or 85-90 degrees. Most preferably the second axis s substantially orthogonal #0 the fist axis (Le. 90 degrees to the frst axis. “The frst st of pleas is preferably a set of equally spaced fat pleas. Fac fat pleat preferably has an overpleat depth of less than 1S mm, $-12 mm, for stance 7-10 mm. The tunderpleat depth may be less than the everpleat depth, for fxample less than 12 mm, 7-10 mim, and preferably’ 7 ma. Wisalso possible forthe fists of pleats 10 beerystal pleas, for another type of fat-lying pleat such as box pleats. ‘The second set of pleas is preferably a set of equally spaced accordion pleats. Each accordion pleat may have a depth of $-10 mn, and preferably between 7-10 mm. I is alo possible fr the second st of pleats to be lat pleas or cxystal pleats. The depth ofthe second set of plats may be less than the depth ofthe frst set of pleats. 'A least one pleat inthe first set of pleats may comprise ‘one oe more holes formed in an waderplest, Preferably a phuality of hols is formed inthe undeepleat of the ist set ‘fpleats at equally spaced intervals, eg. one for every three, {0 or one of the second se of pleats “The garment may comprise # ist garment layer and a second garment layer of substantially the same size and shape tothe firs garment layer so as to provide a lining 1 the first garment layer, and insolation between the 10 layers, wherein each garment layer i pleated in accordance with the method of frst aspect of the invention, willbe appreciated thatthe various features ofthe above aspects of the invention may be combined together in any ‘ppropriste combination in use, ae desired by the skilled person. “The invention will now be desribed in more dei, by way of example only with reference to the accompanying drawings in whieh FIG. 1 shows a pleated chilis jacket; FIG. 2 shows a pair of pleated child's trousers; FIG. 3 illustrates a first exemplary pleat construction; IG. 4 illystates a second exemplary pleat constuction; FIG. illustrates the placement of first set of pleats and. 1 second set of pleas FIG. 6 shows an exemplary method of plating; FIG. 7 shows an unpleaod sewa garment, FIG. 8 shows the garment of FIG. 7 folded ready for a fist plating process: TIG, 9 shows @ once-plested garment folded ready fora second pleating process: 6 FIG, 10 iustrates pleated garments (a) worn by 8 four ‘month okt baby, and (b) by a three year old child FIG. 11 shows a pleated fabric including. venti holes; FIG, 12 is a schematic cross sectional view of a fabric similar to that shown in FIG. Mz IG. 13 shoses the ventilated pleated fabric of FIG, 12 in more detail, and FIG. 14 illustates six stages included in a process for constructing a double layer plated ament Referring to FIGS. 1 and 8, a garment 10 comprises a frst sctof pleats Zenda seoond st of pleats 14. The fis pleats 12 are folded into the garment slong (je, orhoganal to) a first axis 16. The socond pleats are folded into the garment slong (ie. onbogonal to) a second axis 18 different tothe fist ais: The second st of pleats 14 x pleated over the fst eof pleats 12 to produce double plested structure. Bach pleating process i, inthe example sewn, applied 1 a whole tarment aller iti sewn, sch th in each pleating process both sides ofthe garment are pleated atthe same time and inthe same pater, The locations ofthe first and second axes are yelected 10 dicate the desired directions of garment expansion when the arment is in use. Inthe examples shown, the fist axis 16 Js selected to be substantially vertical when the garment is ‘wom, sad the second axis 18 is selected tobe substaatally horizontal when the garment is worn. Ths ensures that the sin directions of growth are vertical and horizontal, which ‘mice the typical growth ofa wearer, and haps the garment ‘maintain ite overall shape as it expands, ‘As shown best in FIG. 5, the second axis satan angle 22 to the fist axis, In the examples shown, the angle is approximately 90 deyrees (ie. orthogonal), Pleating the zarmeat along two orthogonal axes again helps the garment {o maintain its overall shape asthe garment grows with the Reming now to FIG. 3a garment segment including an exemplary fist set of pleats 12 i shown in more detail. The illustrated first pleats 12 are flat plats (also known as knife pleats). Fach pleat has an overpleat depth 2a and an lunderpleat depth 126. The overpleat dept is defined, in this case, as being the distance betveen each fld line 13 when the pleats are pressed and lying lt, the distance hetwoen the leading edge of each pleat. The underpleat depth is, in this ease, s how far each plat folds back on itself (i. half the distance betwoen afk ine ais respective placement Fine before the fabric is pleated, Tn the example shown the overpleat depth is between $ and 12 mm, in this ease approximately 10 mm, whilst the underpleat depth is between 7 and 10 mm, inthis case approximately 7 ma. ‘When folded into th fabric the ft pleats Left against the surface of the fabric (Le. incplane pleat). FIG. 4 shows.a garment segment including an exemplary set of second pleats 14. For clarity, the second yet of pleas jn FIG. 4s showa in isolation, athe than pleated over afist feof pleats. The illustrated second pleats 14 are accordion Pleats Again, cach pleat hasan overpleat depth 14a and sn tndeepleat depth 14, which inthis case are substantially ‘ential to cach other, and are defined as being the distance berwoon 2 fold line and its respective placement line, s0 28 to predice a set of pleats that stand up from the fabric in a three dimensional manner (ie. out-of-plane pleats). The pleat depth isin this example between 7 and 10 mm, for example 7 mm. “The garment 10 shown in FIG, 1s jacket fora child. An alterative example of a garment 20 Is shown in FIG. 2, ‘which illustrates 2 pair of trousers fora child. In both cases, US 11,530,511 B2 7 the garment is sewn fist, and then the fist and second pleating processes applied tothe substantially finished gar- ment. Any necessary fastenings or timings such as but ‘ons, zip, elastic, stiups, ribbons or cords are applied later 50 a5 abt to interfere with the pleating processes. Altern ively, any necessary fastenings or trimmings sich as But ‘ons, vps, clastic, straps, ribbons or cords can Be applica before or in between the pleating processes ‘An exemplary pleating process is schematically illus teated in FIGS, 6-9. As outlined ia FIG. 6, & method of pleating fabric comprises: frst, pleating the fabric with a Fis pleating proces to crete firs set of pleas in te fabric Jong a frst axis; and then second, pleating the fabric with ‘8 second pleting process lo ereate a second st of pleats the fabric along a second axis different to the first axis, ‘wherein the second set of pleats ae plated over the ist set of pleats ‘When pleating a garment, rather than a fabric, itis preferable t first sew the zammeat int the desired shape as Shown in FIG. 7. thin fabric is preferred, as aftr plesting the garment will be folded into four layers (°4 ply") in some spots, and may be up to 12 ply’ at the seams. 'By “Thin” we mean preferably inthe ofder of 2 07 per square yard (about 70 gsm) by weight. Inthe example shovsn the garment is made from a synthetic fabric, such as poy: ester or PU evated nylon. Synthetic fabrics are suitable for pleating because they can be made to permanently deform Ulring the pleating process, ensuring they hold the pleats ‘well. Any wesrable material which exhibits similar behav: four when pleted can be used es an alternative required. For instance, syntetienatual fabric hybrids such 4s polycottons can pleat well too, Such hybrid fabrics my also be suitable for ianerwear An advantage of making a garment by sewing first and then pleating. is that pleating the fabrie(s) frst and then sewing the pleated fabric(s) nto a gammeat aller pleating can be tricky. The fabric most be held in an expanded state in ‘onder to Sow the garment pieces together, and this ean result Jn bowing at the seams (if, for instanee, the pleats of the sleeve do not alin with the pleats onthe torso section). Thus although iti possible to pleat a fabri first and then sew arment afterwards, in many circumstances sewing the fret fit and then plating afterwards is more efiient {sit simplifies the process and removes the need to align the eats, ‘Aer sewing the garment is ready for the fist pleating step of the method. Where the garment has sleeves as shown in FIG, 8, tis prefered thatthe sloeves are folded 30 at an elbow region 32, soch that longitudinal axis 24 of the sleeve lies substantially parallel to the vertical axis of the tarment (which in this case coincides wih the ist pleating axis 16) As illustrated in FIG. 8, the fold 30 may’ extend trom the elbow region 32 ofthe sleove oa shoulder region 3M ofthe sleeve. Altematvely, as shown in FIG. 9, the Fold ‘30 may extend from the elbow region 32 ofthe sleeve to at ‘underarm region 86 ofthe sleeve, Whichever type of Told 30 Js made inthe sieve, it should preferably be maintained in the same fold configuration for both the frst and second pleating processes, fi ‘When the garment has been folded as desired, the fist st of pleats 12, in this ease flat plats, are folded into the {garment down the Vertical axis ofthe garment. The pleats are most efficiently applied using a commercial pleating ‘machine 26. The garment is fed flat into the machine ater sowing (and, if required, folding) such that the ist pleating xis 16 is parallel toa fod direction of the machine 26, This ensures thatthe first pleats are applied into the garment ric if 8 perpendiculaeo the fist pleating axis The pleating machine Shen in FIGS. & and 9's standard commercial pleating ‘machine, which sandwiches a garment tobe pleated betveen to sheeis of pleating paper 28 and applies leat to the fabric during plating to assist in fixing the pleats. Inthe process ‘used in the present example, the machine is operated st a slow frequency —about 1 row per second which helps enstre the garment is fed in wel, and heat is applied for Tonger duration. The temperature used is typically in the range 130-180 degrees C, and in tis example is about 140 degrees C Tis prefered that the fst pleats ane inserted into the fabric sch thatthe fold ine 18 Of each plat points towards the bottom ofthe garment shen the garment is wor, This helps provent the underpleat fold from tapping unwanted substances such as dirt or rainwater whe the garment is ‘wom, Wit tis in ming, in the pleating machine shown in IG. 8, the end of the garment which will be the tp of the armeat in use is fed into the pleating machine fs, so that the folds 13 ofthe fist set of pleats are directed sway from the top ofthe garment ‘Afr the first pleating process is complete, the gament ‘may be removed from the plating machine 26 and steamed between the sheets of plating paper to fx de first set of pleats 12 into the gameat. In the example shown, heat ‘andlor steam is applied for approximately 0 minutes However it will be appreciated that the duration of the steaming will depend to some extent on the type of fabric ‘which is used fr the garment-—some fabrics will require ‘more or less heat andor steam to ix the pleas ‘After the first pleas ar fixe, the garment is then fad back Jno the pleating machine (or a differet pleating machine) 19 apply the second set of pleats 14, Prior the second pleat step, the garment is rotated though an angle 22 (eal 90 grees) unl the second pleating axis i substantially par el withthe feed direction of the pleating machine. This ensures thatthe second set of less is applied at an angle 22 to the first set of pleas, in order to produce the desired expandable stcture Ater the second pleating process the garment is again heated andr steamed (in this case again for 30 minutes) 10 fx the second set of pleats in place As otlined above, the fs st of pleats is ideally made up of fat pleats. Forming te fist set of pleats as it pleats is preferable because this type of pleas les flat atinst the Barment, so permitting a second pleating proeess to be ppliod Over the top. Inthe exemplary process discussed above the second set ofpleatss ideally made up of accordion pleats. These pleats 1 typically smaller than fat pleats. With this combination ff pleats we have found it desirable thatthe st pleats are applied lang the vertical axis of the garment, whilst the accordion plats are applied along the horizontal axis. I'he ‘overpleat depth of te flat pleat is selected to be lager than the depth of the acconlion pleats, this means that the meat will expand more along its length (ie in ine with the vercal axis) than along its width (Le in line with the horizontal axs) when itis worn, which mimics the typical growth of a child. Ifdesited the amount of expansion in the {amnt canbe controlled by selecting the ratio ofthe depth Df the frst pleas to the depth ofthe second pleats. That is, the deeper the pleats along are one axis than the pleats along the ether axis, then the more the garment will expand along respective pleating axis ‘\gament made according othe process described shove has many properties which make it advantageous for use as ‘outerwear, particularly outerwear for children. For instance, US 11,530,511 B2 9 ‘garment made according othe method desribed herein is extremely portable, as itcan shrink toa smal size for storage fad expand to a larger size for wear. One garment ca fit a wide range of wearers, meaning stores can, if they wish, stock fewer garments and sill full the range of sizes demand hy their customers A gament made according to the methods described herein is extremely expandable, making dressing a eid easier for both the child and parent, and more comfortable Toe the child, Once on, the garment contracts to comfortably {tthe dimensions ofthe child and expands to permit a wide range of motion. FIG. 10 illustrates the lage expansion possiblo—the same garments are shown wom by'a 4 moath Old buby and a 3 year old child. Garments made according to the process deseribed herein are thus versatile, long lasting, and cost effective, and heace more environmentally tien. ‘So long as the selected fabric holds pleats well (e. a synthetic fabric), the gamment can be washed repeatedly and 3 ‘ill maintain is suxetie properties after washing, ineloding ‘machine washing (cold/30 degrees is recommended). ‘When pleating a presewn garment, as described above, Js dsirable forte lbrie o be thin, when the fabric i ed nto the pleating machine 26 forthe fir pleating operation itis double thickness, or more at he seas, which ean be up to 4 ply, plus thread thickness. Aematvely, the fabric cat be pleted pri to construction of a garment, and then formed into'a gament at later ime, or can be used as segiments of a garment for added benefits such a increased mobility or ventilation panels (especially on sportswear). This might be desirable, for example, if manufacturing rainwear Suc items are typically formed from waterproof ‘material, such as 50% Polyester, 50% Polyurethane (PU); GoreTex!™: 100% Polyester, 100% nylon. ‘These materials typically have restricted hrethability, making them fot and "uncomfortable to wear in some situations. Some ean also reach a saturation point at which they lose effectiveness ‘fabric peated according to the methad of FIG. 6 an conveniently be provided with one or more ventilation holes 38 under the first pleats, as shown in FIGS. 1113. The Ventilation holes ean prove more effective at providing ‘ventilation than conventional breathable materials due 19 their size, and ean be more cost effective than many breath able materials, which can be expensive Te holes can either be formed in the fabric prior to the pleating. processes, or can be formed alter pleating, by Stretching the pleats apart unt the fabric is at. Forming the holes after pleating may result in a more accurate bole placement. The holes may be formed by punching or laser ‘uting, Prferably the bles are form in he fabric in pi layout, with each hole located in an area of te fabric which ‘ill frm part ofan underpleat of the first st of pleats when the fabric is fully pleated. Preferably” the holes are nat positioned on the ereasesbends of the pleated material: but between them Gin order to maintsin stetctral rigidity from the pleating process). The diameter of the holes may depend, to some extent on the sie ofthe pleats, ait is desirable for the holes to be completely covered by the overeat when the pleats are lat, 5038 to avoid rain ingress. Typical the holes fay be 1-3 mn in diameter ‘When the garment sin use typically the pleats do not He completely flat agains the wearer's body, but rather apen Up slit, allowing ar wo passthrough the Venilacon hoes in the underside of the pleat, cooling the wearer, whilst water ingress is prevented by the overhang ofthe overpleat (by the “tle-oot strctue), as shown in FIG. 12. The wearer can 10 pull he fare to stretch the plats further apart, as shown in FIG. 13, if farther ventilation is roquired. Refeting now to FIG, 14, « method of constructing 9 wo layer garment is shown, The two layer garment may be an insulated garment, in that it compres insulation material such as down or synthetic (eg. polyester) filing inserted between the layers, The method comprises sewing a fabric into first gament layer, an pleating the fist gamient layer in Tine with the method outlined above. 4 second fabri is also sewn into a second garment layer of substantially the same size and shape as the fist garment layer, so as 10 provide lining othe fst garment layer, and pleated inline ‘vith the method outlined above orn ine with an alternative Pleating method. The fist garment layer and the second armint layer are sewn together atthe edges. Insulation is then inserted between the layers, if requted. The garment ray then be sewn together slong one or more seams (6. side seams) to assist in holding the garment together and the inslation in place “The invention has been described above primarily with respect to a gamaent, but twill be appreciated that expend- able fabric described herein could have other uses, 38 an expandable structure such asa tent or emergency shelter. ‘Although the examples deseribed above depict the first and second axes being located vertically and horizontally when the garment is in use, it will be appreciated tht the aes can be located differently if desired, depending on Jimplemeatation, For instance, both axes might be positioned fon'a diggonal if more growth is required in a diagonal Girvetion. Such an arrangement might be appropriate i The Jabrie i implemented in an expandable structure rater than a garment Similarly although the axes are described above as being substantially orthogonal, it will be appreciated that ther angles are possible. For a garment, we have found that pleating the garment along two orthogonal axes helps the arment to maintain a consistent shape as it expands. There Js some tolerance for deviation from 90 degrees, for instance 75.90 degrees, or 80-90 dezrees, but preferably the to axes are within 85.90 degrees of eachother For other implemen tations however, the angle betveen the axes need not be 90 degrees it can be selected aeconling to the desired main dlircctions of expansion, In addition in some circumstances it may be desimable for @ garment t0 grow more in one direction than in another (eg. maternity wear). The angle berwoen the pleating axes may this be selected by the user 18 appropiate to achive the desired growih. The invention claimed is: 1. method of pleating a fabric, the method comprising: pleating the fabric with «first plating process to create a first set of pleats in the fabric along a fist axis: pleating the fabric with a second pleating proses create 'socond set of pleats in the fabric along a second axis,

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