21st World Textile Conference AUTEX 2022 Passion for Innovation June 7-10, 2022, Lodz, Poland

AUTEX 2022 Conference Proceedings 978-83-66741-75-1 © Lodz University of Technology, 2022

DOI: 10.34658/9788366741751.80

ELASTIC RECOVERY OF FULL PLAITED KNITTED FABRIC

Amany Khalil1,2(*) , Pavla Těšinová1
1
Textile Evaluation Department, Technical University of Liberec 46117, Liberec, Czech Republic
2
Textile Engineering Department, Mansoura University, Mansoura 35516, Egypt
(*)
Email: engamanysalama@gmail.com; amany.khalil@tul.cz

ABSTRACT
In this paper, fabric growth of elastic full plaited single jersey knitted fabric were investigated. Full
plaited fabric knitted were produced from combed yarn 35 Ne at 2.9 mm and five levels of spandex
weight percent (4, 5, 6, 7, 8%). For comparison, 100% cotton fabric was produced at the same yarn
count and loop length. Flexi-frame was designed according to ASTM D2594–04 to measure fabric
growth and stretch, as investigated below. The fabric growth of elastic samples were less than 100%
cotton samples and fabric growth in wales direction (FGW) was less than fabric growth in course
direction (FGC) for both 100% cotton and elastic knitted fabrics.

KEYWORDS
Elastic single jersey knitted fabric, full plaited, fabric growth.

INTRODUCTION
Knitted fabrics are characterized by comfort compared to woven fabrics due to their high extensibility
(compression and elongation of individual stitch), air permeability, and heat retention, but the
dimensional stability after repeated washing especially single jersey knitted fabrics (SJKF) is considered
the main disadvantage [1]. To enhance the dimensional stability and maintain the dimensions during use
and after repeated stresses of knitted fabrics, the additional spandex (full and half plaited) and core-spun
yarn are used. Spandex proportion is one of the most important parameter of single jersey plaited fabrics
and influences fabric characteristic [2]. Elastic fabrics are used for outer and under wear according to
their extensibility, body fit and free body movement [3]. The amount of stretch and the elastic recovery
determine the suitability of knitted fabrics for specific uses [4]. The body skin can be extended by a
simple body movement 50% and the fabric have to easily accompany the stretch and recover on
relaxation. Involved hard movements in active sports may require even greater garment stretch. Drastic
differences between skin and fabric movement result in restrictions of movement to the wearer [5].
The elastic recovery of fabrics knitted from natural and mercerized carded and combed cotton yarns was
determined by means of hysteresis loops of stress-strain curves by using adapted machine used for
measuring breaking strength and elongation of yarns [4]. The results showed that elastic recovery of
fabric knitted from mercerized cotton yarn was greater than for those knit of natural cotton yarn, also,
the fabric knitted from combed cotton had greater elastic recovery than fabrics of carded cotton. Elastic
properties of full plaited knitted fabric at three different levels of spandex input tension, loop length and
spandex yarn count were studied [5]. Full plaited fabrics have a better recovery from deformation than
normal fabric without spandex. The spandex yarn input tension, the cotton yarn loop length and the
spandex yarn linear density had a significant effect on the elastic properties of spandex/ cotton plaited
plain knitted fabrics.

© 2022 by the authors. This article is an open access article distributed under
the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC-BY) license
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)
21st World Textile Conference AUTEX 2022 Passion for Innovation June 7-10, 2022, Lodz, Poland

Stretch fabrics improves comfort by freedom of body movement by providing the necessary elasticity
for a garment to respond to every movement of the body and return to its original size and shape [5][6].
So, more research is needed to evaluate the fabric growth and fabric stretch of elastic knitted fabric and
this paper considered a step in this way.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Five full plaited single jersey knitted fabrics were produced at loop length 2.9 mm with five levels of
spandex weight percent 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 %. Spandex yarns are incorporated by plaiting technique as shown
in Figure 1 and the adjustment of elastane percentage is obtained by adjusting and optimizing the speed
of elastane delivery system. For comparison, 100% cotton sample was produced at the same loop length.
All samples were produced from combed cotton yarn 35 Ne on VIGNONI SJ-B (number of feeders: 57,
diameter: 19-inch, machine gauge: 24 needles/inch), and were treated according to elastic knitted fabric
finishing recipe. First, heat setting at 185 °C was applied, followed by dyeing at 95 °C and finally
compacting at 90 °C. Spandex count is 30 dtex for full plaited respectively to get the same spandex
weight percent (SWP).

Plaiting roll
Guide eye of cotton
yarn

Guide eye of
Latch needle elastane yarn

Figure 1. Plaiting technique in knitting machine [7].

Fabric growth were measured according ASTM D2594 – 04 [8] as follows:

Felxi-frame was designed according to the standard as shown in Figure 2. Fabric samples were cut with
dimensions of 125 mm*400 mm, folded in half lengthwise forming a loop and sewed, then bench marks
100 mm were placed on samples. Fabric sample was hanged on rods of flexi-frame as shown in Figure 3,
then extensions 15% and 30% were applied in wales and course direction respectively by moving a
movable board down. After extension was applied for 2 hrs ±5 min, the sample was free from flexi-
frame and put on table, then the length between bench marks was measured after 1 min and 60 min by
ruler. The Fabric growth was calculated as follows:

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21st World Textile Conference AUTEX 2022 Passion for Innovation June 7-10, 2022, Lodz, Poland

B-A [1]
Fabric Growth1 min (%) = *100
A
C-A [2]
Fabric Growth60 min (%) = *100
A

where, A is the original distance between bench marks (100 mm), B is the distance between bench marks
measured after 1 min of tension force release, C is the distance between bench marks measured after 60
min of tension force release.

Displacement
monitor

Fixed board Timer

Rods

Movable board
Pin to fix
movable board

Magnetic strip to Slider slot

measure distance

Figure 3. Hanged sample.

Figure 2. Flexi-frame.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Figures 4 and 5 shows the fabric growth after 1 and 60 min of relaxation time in wales (FGW) and
courses (FGC) directions respectively at loop length 2.9 mm for both 100% cotton fabric and elastic
fabrics at 5 levels of SWP. In both directions, the 100% cotton fabric growth was higher than elastic
fabric because of the presence of spandex.

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21st World Textile Conference AUTEX 2022 Passion for Innovation June 7-10, 2022, Lodz, Poland

100% cotton 4% 5% 6% 7% 8% 100% cotton 4% 5% 6% 7% 8%

5 5

Fabric Growth in Courses dir. (%)

Fabric Growth in Wales dir. (%)

4 4

3 3

2 2

1 1

0 0
1 60 1 60
Relaxation Time (min) Relaxation Time (min)

Figure 4. Fabric growth in wales direction. Figure 5. Fabric growth in courses direction.

FGW was lower than FGC. Approximately 95% and 99% of extension in wales direction were recovered
after 1 and 60 min respectively while in 100% cotton the recovery percent were 79 and 89 % after 1 and
60 min respectively. The effect of SWP was insignificant on the growth of elastic fabric.

CONCLUSION
The fabric growth of 100% cotton and elastic full plaited single jersey knitted fabric were investigated.
Full plaited fabrics were knitted from combed yarn 35 Ne at 2.9 mm and five levels of SWP. For
comparison, 100% cotton fabric was produced at the same yarn count and loop length.. Flexi-frame was
designed according to ASTM D2594 – 04 to measure fabric growth and stretch. It was concluded that
fabric growth of elastic samples were less than 100% cotton samples and FGW was less than FGC. The
effect of SWP is insignificant on the growth of elastic fabric.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT
This work was supported by the Ministry of Education, Youth and Sports of the Czech Republic and the
European Union - European Structural and Investment Funds in the frames of Operational Programme
Research, Development and Education - project Hybrid Materials for Hierarchical Structures (HyHi,
Reg. No. CZ.02.1.01/0.0/0.0/16_019/0000843).

REFERENCES
[1] Khalil A., Fouda A., Těšinová P., Eldeeb A. S., Comprehensive Assessment of the Properties of
Cotton Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics Produced from Different Lycra States, Autex Res. J. 2020,
doi: 10.2478/aut-2020-0020.
[2] Abdessalem S. B., Abdelkader Y. B., Mokhtar S., Elmarzougui S., Influence of Elastane
Consumption on Plated Plain Knitted Fabric Characteristics, J. Eng. Fiber. Fabr. 2009 vol. 4, no
4, pp. 30–35,
[3] Khalil A., Těšinová P., A. Aboalasaad R. R., Thermal comfort properties of cotton/spandex single
jersey knitted fabric, Ind. Textila 2021, vol. 72, no 3, pp. 244–249, doi: 10.35530/IT.072.03.1760.
[4] Hansen A. M., Fletcher H. M., Elastic Recovery in Cotton Knitted Fabrics, Text. Res. J. 1946, vol.
16, no 11, pp. 571–575, doi: 10.1177/004051754601601105.
[5] Senthilkumar M., Anbumani N., De Araujo M., Elastic properties of spandex plated cotton
knitted fabric, J. Inst. Eng. (India), Part TX Text. Eng. Div. 2011vol. 92, no AUG, pp. 9–13.

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[6] Shishoo R., Textiles in sports. England: Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC, 2005.
[7] Khalil A., Těšinová P., Aboalasaad A. R. R., Effect of Lycra Weight Percent and Loop Length on
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10.2478/aut-2021-0030.
[8] ASTM D2594 – 04 2016. Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having
Low Power.

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