WASHINGTON STATE ENERGY OFFICE

WASHINGTON ENERGY EXTENSION SERVICE

Wood Heat Maintenance and Resources

Cynthia Putnam
Illustrations by Steve Tracy Printed by Seattle City Light EY 1550 August 1982

The high cost of energy has led many consumers to look for less expensive ways to
heat their homes. Burning wood is a solution that many people are exploring. Though
woodburning is hardly a new phenomenon, the technology of heating with wood has changed
drastically over the past few years. Modern airtight woodstoves operate more effic-
iently than old-fashioned pot-belly stoves and traditional fireplaces. They transfer
heat more effectively and give the operator better control over the combustion process.
In the course of developing stoves with greater efficiencies, some special maintenance
problems have been created. This pamphlet is designed to provide fireplace and wood-
stove users with operational guidelines for improving efficiency without increasing
maintenance problems.

CREOSOTE

Causes and Forms

The burning of wood creates

a natural by-product
called creosote that can
accumulate in all parts
of the woodburning system.
Creosote forms when
unburned, volatile gases
condense onto cool surfaces
in the firebox and flue
area. This occurs when
a fire is first being
started and the surfaces
of the system are still
rather cool, or when the
firewood smolders instead
of burns. It may occur
more rapidly in improp-
erly installed systems,
and in flues that are
oversized for the
wood appliance.

In its liquid state, creosote

can run down the sides
of the flue and

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make its way into the home through cracks and gaps in the masonry or metal chimney.
This can be prevented by repairing damaged masonry and making sure that stovepipe
is installed with the crimped ends facing down. Liquid creosote dries to form a solid
black substance that may be flaky, crusty, smooth and shiny, or gummy.

Creosote is dangerous because it is very flammable. It provides the fuel for chimney
fires that can burn at temperatures as high as 3000 degrees Fahrenheit. These tem-
peratures are high enough to melt mortar joints, crack tile liners, and warp metal
stove and chimney pipe. Violent chimney fires can even spread to other parts of the
home through cracks in the chimney or by shaking apart sections of metal pipe. In
addition to being flammable, creosote can corrode mortar joints and metal surfaces
if it is allowed to adhere for long periods of time.

Three Guidelines for Reducing Creosote and Atmospheric Pollution

Although you can't eliminate creosote accumulation, you can minimize its formation by
using a properly-sized woodburning appliance and by following these three guidelines
for operation of your woodstove.

1) The first is to burn dry wood. Dry firewood is wood that has been cut to
length, split and stacked under cover for 9 to 18 months. Some woods require longer
drying periods than others because of moisture content and size. Be sure you know what
the recommended drying period is for the type of firewood you are planning to burn
(see discussion of "Wood Storage" on page 9).

2) The second guideline involves burning the wood as completely as possible.

This means always allowing enough air to enter the fire and maintaining hot flames which
will increase the combustion of the wood. With an open fireplace, complete combus-
tion is almost always achieved because the fire will consume as much oxygen as it needs.
In the case of an airtight woodstove or fireplace insert, the air flow to the fire is
restricted and incomplete combustion occurs more easily. It is a good idea to check
the fire at least every hour. Wood doesn't necessarily have to be added every hour,
but the fire should be monitored to insure complete combustion. Hot fires result in
burning wood more completely, with less creosote, less pollution, and more heat.

One way to monitor the completeness of combustion is to use a stack thermometer. By

keeping the stack smoke temperature in the 250° to 400° Fahrenheit range, creosote is not
likely to form. Another method is to observe the amount and density of smoke that
is coming out of the chimney: the less smoke, the more complete the combustion.
Long, slow, overnight burns result in cool fires that produce a lot of creosote.

3) The third guideline involves warming the flue as quickly as possible. In

the early stages of a burn, the surfaces of the wood heat system are still rather
cool and will cause condensation of the initial unburned gases leaving the system.
In order to reduce this condensation, it is a good idea to get a hot fire burning
quickly to preheat the flue. Start the fire with a small amount of paper and a lot
of dry kindling. Gradually add larger pieces of wood. In an airtight stove, leave
the draft controls open so that the wood has plenty of oxygen for combustion. Let
the fire burn hot for the first 20 minutes to 1 hour of operation. This will enable
the surfaces to warm up and prevent gases from condensing. Once the flue surfaces are
warm, adjust the draft controls and reduce the amount of air flowing through the fire.

When adding fresh wood to a fire, make sure that there are enough oxygen and embers
present to ignite the wood and prevent it from smoldering. With an airtight appli-
ance, it is recommended that the draft controls be opened completely before opening
the door and adding more wood. This flushes out gases that might build up in the
stove and cause the danger of flashback. After loading the stove, leave the draft

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controls open for the first 20 minutes to allow the fire to revive. The highest
percentage of volatile gases are emitted during the first 30 minutes of combustion.

INSPECTION OF THE CHIMNEY

Since it is impossible to eliminate creosote, all wood heat systems need to be in-
spected on a regular basis and cleaned if they are dirty. The National Fire Protec-
tion Association recommends that a chimney be cleaned when there is a quarter of an
inch or more of creosote buildup. Some metal chimney manufacturers recommend
cleaning when an eighth of an inch of buildup accumulates. Not all forms of creosote
can be cleaned from the flue. Hard, shiny, glazed creosote, called "third-degree
creosote," cannot always be removed mechanically and may still adhere to the flue
after brushing. To avoid accumulation of creosote glaze, inspect the chimney fre-
quently for the type of buildup, and follow the three operational guidelines closely.
Cleaning will not only reduce the risk of chimney fires, but will also reduce corro-
sion and enhance the drafting capabilities of the chimney.

Hiring a Sweep

You can clean the chimney yourself with the proper tools or you can hire a professional
chimney sweep. In 1982, it cost around $45 to have a fireplace chimney cleaned by
a professional. It might be a good idea to hire a sweep once to watch him and learn
how to do it yourself. If you are not sure whether your chimney needs cleaning,
many sweeps will make inspections at a small charge. Some are also skilled at mason-
ry and can perform basic repair work if necessary.

Find a listing of chimney sweep services in the telephone directory. Identify all
the sweeps in your vicinity. Make calls to at least two or three sweeps before select-
ing one. Find out how long they've been in business, where they got their training,
what areas of the chimney they will clean, what types of tools they use, and whether
they are a member of the state or national chimney sweep guild. If you have more
than one flue that needs to be cleaned, sometimes the sweep will give you a price
break for cleaning two or more flues.

Do-It-Yourself

If you decide to clean the chimney yourself, begin by making an inspection of the
flue. The best way to do this is to inspect both from the top and the bottom. From
the top, lower a flashlight into the flue and look for creosote deposits. From
the bottom, shine a flashlight up into the smoke chamber and shelf region (see Figure 3)
and look for creosote deposits, fallen brick and mortar. If you see a quarter of
an inch or more of creosote buildup, you will need to clean the chimney.

In addition to inspecting for creosote buildup, you should also check the structural
condition of the chimney. In a masonry chimney, look for weak mortar joints, cracked
tile liners, loose or fallen bricks, twigs, branches and animal nests or hives. In
a metal chimney, look for missing sheet metal screws at joints, dents in the metal,
and damaged flashing and support components. If the chimney needs repair, see that
it's done before using the fireplace or installing a woodstove or fireplace insert.
Also, be sure to measure the dimensions of the flue so that you will know what size
chimney brush to use. Many older chimneys were constructed with irregular flue
dimensions, so that the top half of the flue may be larger than the bottom half by
an inch or more. If this is the case, try to estimate the size of the bottom half.
It may be necessary to use two different size brushes.

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TOOLS

The tools you will need to clean the chimney can be purchased at most woodstove
stores or rented from tool rental outlets. It is a good idea to make calls to find
out which locations have tools before driving around to pick up what you need.

1. Two cloth drops and tape

2. Ladder
3. Chimney brush with rods, rope or weight
4. Safety equipment -- goggles, gloves,
respirator or face mask
5. Hand brushes -- steel bristle
-- soft bristle
6. Bucket
7. Industrial vacuum cleaner
8. Drop light

A chimney brush is used to clean the flue

area only. When selecting a brush, be
sure to size it to the dimensions of the
flue. If it is not possible to find a
brush that fits the flue dimensions per-
fectly, select a slightly undersized
brush. Steel brushes, with either
round or flat bristles, work better than
plastic bristles on large or very dirty
chimneys. A steel bristle brush will
cost between $15 and $45 (1982 prices)
depending on its size. The brush can be
used with stiff, add-on rods, or with a
rope and weight or a rope on either end.
The rods are made of steel, aluminum, plastic, and fiberglass. Fiberglass rods are
the most versatile in that they are light, flexible, and strong. A five-foot rod will
cost between $8 and $15 (1982 prices) and it may be necessary to purchase as many as
eight rods depending on the length of the flue.

A less expensive alternative is to devise a rope and weight method, or a rope and
rope method with a person on either end pulling alternately. If you decide to use
the rope and weight method, a 10- to 15-pound weight should be heavy enough to pull
the brush through the flue. Use a length of rope that is sturdy enough to hold this
weight. Three-eighths inch nylon rope works well.

CHIMNEY CLEANING PROCEDURE

The procedure for cleaning a chimney will vary according to whether you have a fire-
place chimney, a furnace chimney, or a free-standing metal chimney. If you have a
fireplace chimney, you will need to clean three areas: the flue, the smoke chamber
and the smoke shelf. On the furnace chimney or a metal chimney, it is only necessary
to clean the flue because there is no smoke chamber or smoke shelf. If a woodstove is
attached to either of these chimneys, it will be necessary to clean the connecting
stove pipe and the appliance itself. Fireplace inserts must be removed before the
smoke chamber and shelf can be properly cleaned.

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The Flue

The most effective way to clean the flue is to mount the roof and clean from the top
down. The exception to this is an exterior metal chimney with a bottom clean-out
cap. This chimney can be cleaned from the bottom up by removing the clean-out cap
and inserting a properly-sized brush. The other exception to cleaning from the top
down is a leaning chimney or an old masonry chimney with weak mortar joints. These
chimneys may not be safe to clean from the top. They can be cleaned from the bottom
if a brush and flexible add-on rods can be inserted through the damper of the firebox.
Attention must be given to falling bricks. Repair the chimney before using it again.

Before sweeping a fireplace chimney, tape a piece of plastic or heavy cloth over the
face of the fireplace to prevent creosote and ash infiltration into the room. Leave
the damper open. Spread a large drop cloth over the hearth and surrounding floor
area to catch particles that may escape from the firebox.

If you can clean the flue from the top down, you will need a ladder to mount the roof.
Position the ladder against the side of the house, not the chimney. Mount the roof
with rubber-soled shoes. Some professional sweeps remove their shoes for a better
grip on the roof.

It is recommended throughout the cleaning process that you use the proper safety
equipment to protect your skin, eyes, throat and lungs from exposure to creosote
particles. Wear long sleeves, work gloves, eye goggles, and a respirator or face mask.
Creosote particles are carcinogenic. Inhalation of them should be avoided.

Lower the brush into the flue and sweep until the surfaces are free of creosote.
Depending on how dirty and how large the flue is, this may take as little as five
good sweeps of the entire length. In some cases, it may take longer. Most of the
creosote that you sweep will drop to the bottom of the flue where it will need to be
cleaned out. Try using chisels or a garden hoe to scrape off glazed creosote.

The Smoke Chamber and Shelf

Once the flue is clean, you will need to

dismount the roof and clean the debris from
below. On a fireplace chimney, remove the
drop cloth taped to the front of the fire-
place. Using the proper safety equipment,
climb inside the firebox.

Take a flashlight or drop light and place

it in a location where it will shed light
on the damper area. Take a wire bristle
hand brush, reach up behind the damper with
the brush, and sweep off the walls of the
smoke chamber and shelf. This is an un-
pleasant part of the job as creosote debris
will drop down on top of you when you sweep.
Having a bucket or bag handy to catch some
of the debris is useful, and will save you
time sweeping the firebox clean later.

Many smoke shelves are inverted and trough-

like. This makes them very difficult to
reach. If you are unable to reach your smoke
shelf by hand, it may be necessary to use a vacuum cleaner hose to remove it. Avoid

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using a household vacuum cleaner for this. Creosote and other particles such as ash
can be too fine for an ordinary household vacuum cleaner filter. They can pass
through the filter bag to the motor and cause ball bearings to burn out. Use a shop
or industrial vacuum cleaner for the job. Test the machine with a handful of
creosote to make sure it can handle the fine particles.

The Appliance: Woodstove or Fireplace Insert

Creosote swept from a furnace flue will drop to the bottom of the flue where it can
be removed through a clean-out door usually located in the basement or crawl space.
With a metal chimney, creosote will drop to the base of the pipe where it can be
removed. By disassembling the lower sections of stovepipe and reaching in through the
smoke outlet or the loading door of the appliance, it is possible to clean additional
creosote. Interior surfaces of a woodburning appliance should be inspected for creo-
sote buildup and swept clean with a wire bristle hand brush. Creosote buildup may
occur on the baffle, on the air intake, or on walls and in corners of the stove. This
must be cleaned as well.

Chemical Chimney Cleaners

Many woodburners ask the question of whether it is safe or effective to use chemical
chimney cleaners. Recent studies have shown that chemical chimney cleaners are not
effective at removing creosote. Some chemical cleaners are effective at loosening
tough creosote deposits, thus making it easier to sweep clean. If you have a tough
or shiny, glazed creosote deposit on your flue. many professional sweeps will recom-
mend that you use the chemical cleaner two or three times in the week before sweeping
the chimney. When selecting a chemical chimney cleaner, avoid salt-based products.
Salt is corrosive to exposed mortar joints and metal.

Chimney Fires: What To Do If You Have One

It is not always easy to tell if you're having a chimney fire. One way to tell is by
the sound that it makes. Large amounts of room air rush up the chimney to feed the
fire, and sometimes this creates a loud noise or causes the chimney to shake. If
you suspect a chimney fire, step outdoors and observe the top of your chimney. If
you see large clouds of smoke, sparks, or flame coming out of the stack, you probably
have a chimney fire.

In the event of a chimney fire, the National Fire Protection Association recommends
that you shut off the air supply to the chimney. Call your local fire department
immediately and get everyone out of the house. Shutting off the air supply to the
chimney will starve the fire of oxygen. If you have a woodstove or a fireplace insert,
you can shut off the air supply by closing the doors and air intake controls. With
an open fireplace. it is more difficult to shut off the air supply. If you have glass
doors or a metal cover, you can reduce the air supply by closing the doors or putting
the metal cover in place. If it is safe to do so, reach up and close the fireplace
damper.

Some chimney sweeps recommend using a chimney flare to suffocate the fire. The flare
will produce a large cloud of smoke that smothers the chimney fire. The disadvantage
of using the flare is that it is only effective if it is placed behind the damper on
the smoke shelf. This can be dangerous if the damper is hot. Sometimes. it is
necessary to use more than one flare at a time to extinguish a fire.

WOOD: SPECIES, HEAT VALUE, MOISTURE CONTENT

There are hundreds of different species of wood in the United States. Depending on

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where you live and accessibility of forest land, you will probably be limited to a
small number of species for fuelwood consumption. In Washington State, some common
species used for fuelwood are alder, cedar, cottonwood, Douglas fir, hemlock, maple,
pine, and tamarack. Less common species such as Pacific madrone, Oregon white oak,
and Oregon ash are also used.

Different wood species produce different amounts of heat when they are burned. The
heat value of wood is usually measured in BTUs per cord. It is affected by the density
and moisture content of the wood. In order to understand density and moisture content,
it helps to visualize a piece of wood as a stack of wood fiber straws, filled with
water and air space. The more wood fiber per square inch in a piece of wood, the
greater the density and potential heat value that wood has. Woods, such as maple
and madrone, are more dense than cedar and Douglas fir, and therefore have higher
heat values.

Wood species also vary in moisture content when they are first cut. Moisture content
refers to the amount of water in wood. Some species contain 50 percent water and 50
percent wood fiber when they are first cut. When this wood is allowed to season or
dry under cover for 9 to 18 months, the moisture content is reduced to about 20 per-
cent. This is considered suitable for burning. A cord of unseasoned wood has a lower
heat value than seasoned wood. The reason for this is that some of the heat from the
fire must be used to evaporate the water in the wood before it begins to burn. Seasoned
wood, because it contains less water to evaporate, can release more heat during
combustion.

Below is a chart which lists fuelwood characteristics for nine species of wood common
to Washington State. Figures for wood density and heat potential vary significantly
from source to source. The figures in Table 1 have been drawn from three sources which
are footnoted below.

TABLE 1. Fuelwood Characteristics

WOOD TYPE WEIGHT (lbs/cord) DENSITY HEAT POTENTIAL

(Common Name) WET DRY (lbs/cu ft) (Btus/cord)
Alder 4000 2500 25.5 17.2 million
Cedar, W. Red -- 2100 19.9 15.2 million
Cottonwood -- 2272 28.4 15.9 million
Douglas Fir 3900 3000 31.2 22.1 million
Hemlock -- 2700 28.0 19.3 million
Madrone 5200 4300 40.4 27.9 million
Maple, Big leaf -- 3000 34.4 20.4 million
Pine, Ponderosa -- 2200 24.9 17.0 million
Tamarack -- 3300 33.0 23.5 million
MOISTURE CONTENT OF WOOD (effect on heat potential)
Laboratory conditions "kiln-dried" wood: 0% moisture content = 8600 btus/lb
Seasoned "dry" wood: 20% moisture content = 6700 btus/lb
Unseasoned "green" wood: 50% moisture content = 5500 btus/lb
SOURCES: Shelton, Jay. The Woodburners Encyclopedia. Vermont Crossroads Press, Waitsfield.
Duft, Ken D. The Economics of Firewood Harvesting: Does it Pay to Cut, Haul or
Purchase?. Washington State University, Pullman.
Hansen, Hugh J. Fuelwood Facts. Oregon State University, Corvallis.

Page 7 of 10
PURCHASING FUELWOOD

Woodburners have the choice of harvesting their own wood from urban or rural sites,
cutting it at a local "U-cut" wood yard, having a load of logs delivered, or purchasing
it from a fuelwood dealer. If you do not have easy access to a harvesting site, a
hauling vehicle or tools, then purchasing firewood may be more cost-effective than
harvesting. Firewood dealers advertise in most major newspapers. Prices for cordwood
range from $65 to $125 per cord
(1982 prices) depending on the type
of wood and the moisture content.
Cordwood prices tend to be low in
the spring and summer months and
high in the fall. In the State
of Washington, firewood must be
sold in a unit of measurement
called a cord (see figure 4).
A cord is a unit of uniformly
stacked wood that measures
4 feet high, 4 feet deep, and
8 feet long. It is a volume
measurement that occupies a
total of 128 cubic feet. Firewood
must be sold by the cord or any fraction thereof, such as a half-cord or third-cord.
Terms such as "face cord" or "rick cord" are not legal units of measurement.

Some important things to know about the wood you are planning to purchase are the
species of wood, how long it has been seasoned, and whether there are additional charges
for cutting, splitting, delivery, and stacking. Once you select a dealer, make sure
that you obtain a receipt for the purchase. The receipt should have on it: 1) the
date of purchase, 2) your name and address, 3) the dealer's name, address, and phone
number, 4) the amount of wood delivered, and 5) the price paid (the dealer is required
to charge sales tax on every transaction). It is also helpful to obtain a driver's
license number or a vehicle license plate number as additional information.

If you feel the dealer did not deliver the amount of wood specified on the receipt,
you can call your local office of weights and measures, listed as a municipal office
under licensing department, or listed as a state office. They will send an inspector
to your home to measure the wood. The wood must be stacked. If their measurement
is not in agreement with what appears on the receipt, they will notify the dealer and
ask that a reimbursement be made.

Aside from cordwood, there is another type of fuel that can be purchased from local
dealers. It is referred to as processed fuel and comes in the form of compressed
logs or pellets. There are many brand names for these products such as "Prestolog"
or "Duraflame." Processed fuels are made from wood, straw, and other biomass residues
that have been compressed at a high temperature. Some of the manufacturers add
binding agents such as waxes or glues to hold the logs together or to give color to
the flame when it burns. Processed fuel logs that are manufactured with binding
agents burn at very high temperatures and are safe to use in open fireplaces only.
Processed fuels made without the binding agents are safe to use in most woodburning
appliances. To be on the safe side, check with the woodstove manufacturer first.

Processed fuels can be purchased in small packages of 1 to 6 logs, or by the pallet

load of 700 logs. They are available at many retail outlets and the prepackaged,
uniform size makes them easy to store for later use. Unlike cordwood, processed fuels
do not need a lengthy seasoning period. They do, however, need to be stored under
cover, protected from rain and snow. Though they may be easy to store and convenient
to purchase, they tend to be more expensive than cordwood--sometimes 5 times more!

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HARVESTING FUELWOOD

If you have access to a low-cost or free fuelwood cutting site, a vehicle for hauling
the wood and tools for cutting it, you may find that harvesting firewood is more
cost-effective than purchasing it. Fuelwood is available for harvesting in both
urban and rural areas. In urban areas, scrap wood can be obtained from industrial
and construction sites. You can often make arrangements with worksite foremen or
supervisors to pick up scrap wood on a regular basis. Scrap wood that contains
glues, or has been treated with wood preservatives or lead-based paint should not
be burned in large quantity.

Another source of supply is suburban land-development sites where wooded areas have
been clear-cut for construction. Cutting rights to the felled trees can be obtained
by talking to a site foreman or contractor. If possible, ask for a signed permission
slip before cutting.

In rural areas, state and national forests and some private owners open cutting sites
to the public. These lands usually contain wood that is not economical for commercial
logging but is perfectly suitable for firewood. A permit must be obtained before
entering the site to cut. In many cases, you will be required to bring a fire
extinguisher, a shovel, and a spark arrestor on the chainsaw when cutting at these sites.

In Washington State, on Department of Natural Resources (DNR) managed land, wood

cutting permits are free of charge and entitle you to cut 6 cords of firewood.
For information on the location of DNR free cutting sites, call toll free 1-800-562-6010.
For information on the location of national forest cutting sites and permit requirements,
call the local forest supervisor's office listed under U.S. National Forest Park Service.
The following is a list of forest supervisor's numbers in Washington:
Colville 684-5221, Okanogan 422-2704, Olympia 753-9534, Pendleton 276-3811, Seattle
442-0170, Vancouver 696-4041 and Wenatchee 662-4335.

Another source of firewood is forest land owned by timber companies. By calling

the regional business offices for these companies, it is possible to obtain information
on the availability, locations, and hours of cutting sites, and the cost of a permit.
Many private forest owners contract with firewood management agencies who administer
cutting activities for the landowner. The sites are advertised as "U-cut" areas in
the classified section of local newspapers. Frequently, they are located near urban
areas, making them especially convenient for urban harvesters. In 1982, typical
charges for "U-cut" areas were 9 to 18 dollars per cord of wood harvested.

The best time of year to harvest firewood from forest sites is in the early spring
when they are not crowded with other woodburners. If you get to the site early in
the day, your chances of finding wood close to the main road are better. From April
to October of each year, many cutting sites are closed due to fire danger. If possible,
call to verify that the site is open before making the trip to cut.

Choose a convenient location outdoors to stack your wood pile. It is best to position
it in an area where there
is good air circulation,
at least 6 feet from
the house or other
wooden structures. Place
the pile at least 3 inches
off the ground, and
stack it loosely so as
to expose the greatest
amount of surface area.
The ground underneath

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the pile should be covered with a waterproof material to prevent ground moisture from
moving up through the pile. The pile should be protected from rain and snow by
covering it with plywood, sheet metal, heavy plastic or canvas, or by stacking it
in a wood shed. If the pile is covered with plastic or canvas, place the material
over the top of the stack and one-third of the way down the ends (see Figure 5).
This will allow for air to circulate through the two uncovered sides. After a
9- to 18-month drying period, checks and cracks should appear in log ends. This is
a sign that most of the moisture has evaporated out of the wood and it is ready to
burn.

If you are not able to store your wood for a 9- to 18-month period, seasoning can be
speeded up by storing wood inside a bin with clear glazing on all sides. Sometimes
referred to as a solar dryer, these bins must be carefully designed to provide for
air circulation through the wood pile and ventilation of moisture from the wood.
Glazing should be at least 9 inches away from the wood. The bin should be placed in
a location where it will get the maximum amount of exposure to the sun. Wood stored
in this fashion may be ready to burn in as little as 3 months.

Avoid storing large quantities of firewood on porches, in garages, in basements,

or up against the side of the house. Firewood may contain plant or insect life that
can be potentially damaging to the structure of the home. Some rodents are attracted
to firewood stacks for nesting.

CONCLUSION

For many people, heating with wood offers the prospect of lower heating costs and
an old-time sense of self-reliance. But for others, the yearly cost of chimney
maintenance, safety, and fuelwood resources greatly diminishes the appeal of wood
heat. Before making a decision about whether to burn wood, evaluate your cost and
time in purchasing, installing, and maintaining the system. A well-built, efficient
system can be a pleasure and comfort to maintain. If it is installed correctly and
cleaned regularly, your safety will prevail. With a low-cost supply of fuelwood
that is close at hand, the cost-savings of burning wood may be realized in a short
period of time.

SUGGESTED READING:

The Woodburners Encyclopedia. Jay Shelton. Vermont Crossroads

Press, Waitsfield, VT.

Wood Heat Safety. Jay Shelton. Garden Way Publishing, Charlotte, VT.

Be Your Own Chimney Sweep. Curtis and Post. Garden Way Publishing,
Charlotte, VT.

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