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Overview
Spinning mill
Knitting Factory
Knit Garments factory
Knitting Composite factory
Fully fashion(Sweater)
Woven Garments factory(Denim)
Trims & Accessories factory
Classification of Apparel sector based on fabric construction & garment manufacturing method:
Apparel Sector
Knitwear
Woven
Weaving
Yarn
Spun/Staple
Filament
yarn
Carded Combed
Yarn Manufacturing Process
Neps
Yarn
Melange
Yarn
Yarn Package
Knitting Factory
T-shirts Jumpsuits
Polo shirts Joggers
Tank tops
Shorts
Henley shirts
Active wear
Sweatshirts
Hoodies
Sleepwear
Crew neck Loungewear
Cardigans Baby clothing
Pullovers Underwear
Knitting Composite Factory
Knitting department
Knit dyeing department
Yarn Dyeing department
Garments department (CAD + Cutting)
Print & Embroidery department
Maintenance department
Accounts & commercial department
IE & Planning department
HR department
R&D department
D&D department
Store department(Yarn, Fabric, Trims & accessories)
Yarn Dyeing
When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn,
it is called yarn dyeing.
In this method, the dyestuff penetrates the fibers to the core
of the yarn. Yarn dyeing is slightly difference from woven or
knit dyeing.
Dyed yarns are used for making stripe knit or woven fabrics
or solid dyed yarn fabric or in sweater manufacturing.
Process of yarn dyeing?
Design and development
Design and development in garment production is a
process that involves creating new fabric designs
and styles of clothing, as well as improving existing
garments — the goal is to create products that are
both stylish and functional.
This can be done by:
Attending trade shows
Reading fashion magazines
Talking to trendsetters
Pattern making
Once the design is finalized, a pattern must be created.
• This is done by transferring the design onto paper or fabric
and then cutting out the individual pieces that make up the
garment. As with any other garment production process, the
pattern maker is important for manufacturing. Patterns are
used to create the basic shape of a garment — usually created
by hand or with the help of a machine.
• Once the pattern is complete, it is then used to cut fabric and
construct the garment.
G ra ding
T his is do ne by creat ing dif f erent v ersions of t he
pat t ern in dif f erent sizes. Af t er t he pat t ern is cu t ,
t he garment goes t hrou gh a series of processe s cal l ed
“g rading . ” G rading is creat ing dif f erent sizes of a
garment f rom a base size.
T here are t w o t ypes of grading:
Horizont al
V ert ical
Marking and fabric cuttings
Marking is the process of creating lines or markings on fabric
to indicate where to cut the fabric.
Cutting is cutting the fabric along those lines or markings.
There are a few different ways to mark fabric for cutting.
Once the fabric is marked, it is time to cut it. This can be done
with a rotary cutter, scissors, or a knife. It is important to use
sharp tools when cutting fabric to avoid fraying or tearing the
material.
So rt ing o u t & b u ndling cu t f abric
Af t er t he f abric is cu t accordi ng t o t he
pat t ern, it is sort ed based on size, co l o r, and
st yl e. T he so rt ed pieces are t hen bu ndl ed
t oget her and l abel ed f or easy ident if icat io n
du r ing t he sew ing pro cess. Bu ndl ing ensu res
t hat t he correct pieces are u sed f or each
g arment , redu cing t he risk of errors and
improv ing ef f iciency in t he produ ct ion
process.
Screen printing is the process of applying paint-based
graphics to fabric using presses and textile dryers.
Specifically, screen printing involves sweeping a rubber
blade across a porous screen, transferring ink through a
stencil and onto the fabric.
Textile Printing Screen
Printing
The word of “printing” has
derived from a Latin
word which
means “pressing “. It implies
a process that uses pressure.
Textile printing is one kind
of localized dyeing where
dyes or pigments & chemical
applied by any method
which can produce a
particular effect of color on
fabric according to design. Block
In a word, Applying colored
patterns and designs to Printing
decorate a finished fabric is
called ‘Printing’.
Print Paste Ingredients
a) Dyestuffs or pigment.
b) Wetting agent.
c) Thickener.
d) Solvents dispersing agents.
e) Defoaming agents.
f) Oxidizing and reducing agents.
g) Catalyst and oxygen career.
h) Acid and alkali.
i) Career and swelling agent.
Alternative of Printing
Applique
Yarn dyed Stripe Fabric Embroidery
Singeing
Mercerizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Styles & Methods of Printing
Screen
Printing
Block
Printing
Discharge Style
of Printing
Polyamide(Nylon) +
Other fiber (But not
Polyester) . burn out
chemical Aluminium
Gel Printing
Gel printing is a
monoprinting technique
with a gel printing plate.
A gel printing plate,
sometimes called a gelli
plate, is a sort of soft
and sticky plate made
out of a polymer
material.
Methods of Printing
BLOCK
Block printing is a method where the pattern was cut
into wooden blocks, or was built through an assembly
of metal stripes, nails and so on. The print paste is
PRINTING
applied to the design surface on the block and the
block then pressed against the fabric.
The process is repeated with different designs and
colors until the pattern is complete. The block printing
is used from time immemorial and is still being
practiced in all Asian countries as it can be done even
at homes by the people in their free time.
Block printing is a slow and laborious process and is not
suitable for high volume commercial use. This printing
method is used only at small scale or in cottage
industry and is not used at industrial scale because of
less flexibility and productivity.
Roller
• Printing
In this method, engraved copper cylinders or rollers are used
in place of handcarved blocks. When the rollers move, a
repeat of the design is printed on the fabric.
• Roller printing has traditionally been preferred for long
production runs because of the very high speeds possible. It is
also a versatile technique since up to a dozen different colors
can be printed simultaneously.
• The basic roller printing equipment consists of a number of
copper faced rollers in which the design is etched.
Roller Printing
• There is a separate printing
roller for each color being
printed.
• Each of the rollers rotates over
the fabric under pressure
against an iron pressure roller.
• A blanket and backing cloth
rotate over the pressure roller
under the fabric and provide a
flexible support for the fabric
being printed.
• A color doctor blade removes
paste or fibers adhering to the
roller after contact with the
fabric. After the impression
stage the fabric passes to the
drying and steaming stages.
Roller
Printing
Screen Printing
https://youtu.be/JbmI Screen
Rotary Screen Printing
A printing machine that utilizes seamless
cylindrical screens made of metal foil was
originally developed in Holland. This process is
called rotary screen printing.
Disadvantage:
The main disadvantage of fully fashion knitwear is low volume
production because operator has to increase & decrease the number of
needles for creating a shape.
Classification of Knitted Structure
Knit
Warp knitted
Weft knitted
Structure
Structure
Knitting section
Linking inspection
Mending section
Finishing section
Manufacturing Process of Sweater garments:
•Yarn distributing center: After winding all yarns cone comes to this section.
Hanks to cone winding machine
Washing machine
Hydro extractor Section: Squeezing the garments to remove water & garments
become dry.
•Quality Control Section: In the quality control section, where each part of sweater is
checked carefully, thus if the sweaters are found not up to the standard, they are sent
back to the Third Inspection section for mending the loopholes.
•Poly Packing Section: After quality checking needs to attach hangtag, price tag to
garments, then it turns into poly bag.
Two types of poly bag is used: 1) Blister poly 2) Single or solid poly.
•Packaging section: In this section, garments turn to carton means cartooning.
•Inspection by Buyer: After 100% completion of packaging, garments are checked by
the Buyer representatives according to AQL. Mainly 1.5 & 2.5 AQL is used but more
preferable AQL is 2.5.
Types of Machines used in sweater garments:
•Winding m/c.
•Knitting m/c.
•Linking m/c (Adjusting all parts).
•Over lock m/c.
•Washing m/c.
•Hydro extractor m/c (For water removing).
•Dryer.
•Iron/ Steam Iron.
•Single needle lock stitch m/c ( For adjusting label)
Single Jersey/ Single Knit/ Plain Knit/ Basic Type
Stitch:
Properties/Identification:
1) Appearance: Technical face has V shape stitch/ jersey stitch and Technical
back has semi circle stitch.
T/B () () () ()
Stitch diagram of Single Jersey:
T/F V V V V
Semi circle stitch is also known as purl stitch because it looks like purl.
Laddering: Laddering can be repaired in flat bed knitting but not in circular
knitting.
It is a defect which occur because of-
What is single knit fabric?
• Single knit fabric or single jersey is a general term for knitted fabrics
produced by the knitting machines using one set of needles only.
• The fabrics could be composed of different patterns, stitches, materials and
different weight and thickness.
Diagrammatic notation
Single Jersey
Notation
Graphical notation
Diagrammatic
notation
Characteristics and properties of single jersey
• Plain jersey is produced by a single set of needles, drawing the
loops away from the technical back and towards the technical face side
of the fabric.
• The technical face is smooth, with the side limbs of the needle
loops having the appearance of columns of Vs in the wales.
• On the technical back, the heads of the needle loops and the bases of
the sinker loops form columns of interlocking semi-circles.
• The single jersey is a weft knitted fabric formed with face knit
stitches on the face side, and back knit stitches on the rear.
• The fabric curls at the free edges on flat surface-towards the front
at the upper and lower edges, and towards the back at left and right
edges.
• The fabric shrinks in width/circumference, and the
extent of shrinkage is about in the range of 25-40 per
cent.
(3) It is now normally knitted with two sets of latch needles and
known as double jersey fabric.
Identification:
1) Appearance: Both sides
are same in appearance. Both
technical front and technical
back has V shape stitch/
jersey stitch.
1) Edge curling: This fabric also does not curl at the edges. Reason is that it is
more balanced fabric because all needles are active on both sides (T/F and
T/B bed). So tension is uniform on both sides.
3) Unraveled: We can unrope the structure from the end section only (because
it forms from double bed).
End Uses:
Normally for heavy knitwearinterlock is used because it is fitted.
Light knitted is preferred for sportswear (sports T-shirt) because it absorbs
sweat well and dimensional stability is good.
For ladies skirt. And also for tube fabric to make pocket.
Differences between Rib and Double
jersey knit: Rib Double Jersey
• AIl face Ioops are in one side and alI back loops are in other side.
• Both sides are should be different appearance.
• Both sides of the fabric contain only face loops (basic rib and interlock
fabrics) or only backloops (basic purl fabric) or combination of face and
back Ioops.
• Both sites are same appearance for basic and balanced structure, but
different on other structures