Cutting Room Technology

Spreading
Fabric Spreading:

In large-scale production, fabric has to be cut in a large quantity so as to give continuous

input to the sewing section. For this reason multi-piece markers are planned. As per
marker length fabric has to be laid layer after layer on a strong solid table. This laying of
fabric on a table as per marker is called fabric spreading.
Some times more than 200 plies of fabric are placed on a table. All the plies laid on a
table as per lay plan is called a lay of fabric.

Fabric spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spreading in order to get required
length and width as per marker dimension. This is a preparatory operation for cutting and
consists of laying. The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layers. The
maximum width of the cutting marker is considered by the usable width of fabric. During
spreading number of lay should be not more than three hundreds. But it depends on
thickness of the fabric and the height of the knife.

 Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine
2. Volume of production
3. Types of fabric itself (rough or slippery)
4. Thickness of fabric

Types of spreading:

 There are two types of spreading:

1. Flat Spreading &

2. Stepped Spreading.

Objectives of spreading:

 i. To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly
aligned as to length and width.
 ii. To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garment
marker plans and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting
many plies at a time.
 iii. To make every ply plain and flat.
 The main function of spreading is laying fabric as per marker so that right quantity
of fabric may be cut in conformance with the customer’s order.

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Requirements of fabric spreading:

 Alignment of fabric plies:

Every ply should comprise at least width of the marker plan, but should have the
minimum possible extra outside those measurements. The natures of textile materials
vary in width. The marker plan is made of fit the narrowest width. In accuracy in this
alignment could mean that plies do not cover the whole area of the marker plan and parts
of some pattern pieces would be missing when cut the fabric.

 Fabric must be flat:

The fabric laid on the table should be flat otherwise there will be ridges in it.

 Elimination of fabric faults:

Fabric faults (holes, stains etc.) may be identified by the fabric supplier and additional
faults may be detected during examination of fabric by the garment manufacturer prior to
spreading. The fold of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary steps
should be taken to remove these faults. It is the duty of the operator. Computerized
methods of achieving this are now available which provide a display of the marker plan
on a computer screen on the spreading machine.

 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability:

These two factors must be considered together. They depend on fabric type, pattern
shape and the spreading equipment that is available. When the pattern pieces have
been positioned in a particular direction in the marker plan, it is essential that the
fabric is spread in away that maintain that direction.

 Correct ply dimension & Pressure:

Fabric lay is made fairly by placing one ply of fabric above the other. Fabric lay can be
done manually as well as it can also be done by machine. Whatever way the fabric spread
is done; it must be ensured that each ply of fabric must be tension free. During fabric
spreading it is to be taken care so that fabric spread is not done in loose condition. If it
happens then fabric lay will be defective.

 Elimination of static electricity:

In fabric spreading static charge may produce due to friction specially the fabric
containing the man-made fiber like polyester, nylon etc. To overcome the problem, we
should take following steps:
i. To use the antifriction paper,
ii. To increase the moisture of cutting room,
iii. To use silicon finish in cutting blade.

 Avoidance of fusion of plies:

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In case of thermoplastic fiber fabrics may fuse together during cutting if the cutting
knife becomes hot. We can prevent fabric from fusion by –
a) Using anti-fusion paper,
b) Using silicon lubricants on the knife blade.
c) Reducing ply height.
Note: Fusion means blend or mixture.

 Matching check and stripe:

During fabric spreading it should be carefully noticed that checked and stripe should be
matched otherwise garments may be fault.

 Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles:

Identification marks are used in plies due to color or shade variation.

Types of fabric lay:

 The types of fabric lays can be done mainly in two methods. For example, based
on the construction of the lay and based on the direction of spreading of fabrics in
lays. About the classifications of the types of fabric lays of both the methods are
discussed below:

Based on the Construction:

(i) Straight Lay

(ii) Stepped Lay

 Straight Lay: Every ply is placed according to the marker length. It is most
common & most of the garments are used in this type of lay.

 Stepped Lay: Every ply is not spreader according to the full length of marker but
in stepped manner. It is needed different types of marker for stepped lay.

Based on the direction of spreading:

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During the time of making of fabric lay by spreading the fabric, fabric lay is classified in
three types based on the direction of spreading of fabrics. The types are mentioned and
discussed below:
(i) All face up/down
(ii) Face to face
(iii) Zig-Zag

 All face up/down:

This type of lay is suitable for wide and open fabric. The face side of each ply of the
fabric is placed either on the top side or on the bottom side. But the direction of fabric
spreading is always in the same direction. After spreading of each ply, the fabric end is
cut and again the fabric is spread from the same end. For this reason the spreading
machine needs to be brought to the same place after completion of spreading of fabric for
each of the ply.

 Face to face:
This type of lay is suitable for wide and open fabric. The front side of the ply of the fabric
is placed face to face in pairs and for making the lay, the fabric roll is required to be turn
after completion of spreading of fabric for each ply. For making this type of fabric lay,
special type of fabric spreading machine is required.

 Zig Zag Lay:

For making this type of lay, fabric spreading starts from one end as per the marker
length and reach the other end and without cutting the fabric end, it is kept hold and the
fabric spreading runs continuing. This way the zig zag lay is done. Zig zag lay is widely
used in garments industry but for asymmetric fabrics this type of lay may create problem.

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Methods of fabric spreading:

 1. Manual Method
 2.Mechanical Method
i. Semi-automatic
ii. Full automatic

Manual Method:

 By Hand:

Fabric roll is spreading on the table by two labors according to the length & width of
marker. Sometimes it is done by entering a rod which is made by wood or metal in the
center paper table which is present in the center of the fabric roll.

 By Hook:

This method also a part of manual process called hand process with hook because this
process is a little different from hand process with a little extra material called hook.
Which is made from iron and this tool looks like an English alphabet “J”. This method
has a little advantage than hand process.
In this process the top of the table on which the fabric is spreading is set at 10 degree
angle perpendicularly. The hook which placed on the upper face of the table is 15 cm
long & the hook is joined with one end of selvedge of fabric & the other end of selvedge
is draped on this weight.

 Spreading truck with the help of operator:

There is a spreading truck on the one end of the spreading table in which the fabric rolls
is placed. Then the truck is operated by hand from one end to the other end of the table
& with the same time the fabric is open out from the fabric roll and the fabric is
spreading according to the length and width.
Semi-Automatic:

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 The spreading machine is run on the specific path with the help of motor on two
rails at the two sides on the top of the table. The fabric roll is placed at the specific
place in the machine. The spreading machine makes the fabric lay on the table by
spreading of the fabric moving from the one end of the table to the other with the
help of electrical and mechanical power.

Advantages of semi-automatic machine are listed below:

There is system for counting the fabric plies automatically.

There is system for cutting the fabric plies automatically.
There is system for holding the ends of the fabrics automatically after cutting of the
fabric plies.
There is inspection light for making the fabric faults during spreading of fabrics.
There is system for controlling of fabric tensions.
There is leveling blade for making the fabric top flat and straight.
There is turn table for turning the fabric roll.
It can spread up to 100 meters of fabric per minute.
Up to 25 cm of height lay can be made.
There is photo electric guide for making the selvedge alignment.

Disadvantages of semi-automatic machine are listed below:

More time is required here.

It has needed higher labor cost.
It cannot be possible to make desired fabric spreading technique by using this method.
There is no sensor in the spreading head.
Any kinds of fabric cannot be spread here.

Full Automatic:

 The full automatic machine is improved version of the semi-automatic machine.

All the advantages available in semi-automatic spreading machine are present
here; moreover, some additional advantages are available in the full automatic
machine because these machines are run by robot and micro processor controlling.

Advantages of full automatic machine are listed below:

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This machine can be directed or fixes how many ply have to spread before start
spreading.
This machine is working by robotic technique so if the fabric roll gone empty then this
machine gets another new roll automatically without any human power and start again
spread where it was ended.

There is a sensor in front of head. This sensor marks the fault area of any fabric and
automatically cut the fabric width and stat again spreading.

Every type of fabric is able to spread and its can makes every type of lay.

This is automatic spreading machine so it can work so many faster than others spreading
methods.

Disadvantage of full automatic machine are listed below:

It is very expensive, so that capital investment is high.

Skillful operator is needed to operate these types of machine.

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