Slice of history

One man’s search for the world’s greatest sandwich

Wednesday 01/11/23
Rise and shine!
21 ways to enjoy
mornings
page 4

Melissa Broder
On grief, writing
and the desert
page 9

2 The Guardian
A moment that changed me
I joined a game of football and found my life’s mission
When she passed
some kids having
a kickabout,
Luma Mufleh had
no idea she would
end up coaching a
team of refugees –
and then building
a school for them
I t was the deflated
football that did it. The patchy field
behind the apartment complex in
Atlanta, Georgia, was miles apart
– in every sense – from the lively
streets of Amman, Jordan, where
I grew up, but seeing a group of kids
kicking that raggedy ball around
took me right back to the barefoot
street matches I played as a girl.
To me, there was nothing
strange about asking to play with
them. In Amman, anyone who
wanted to play football would just
ask. I grabbed a (fully inflated) ball
from my car. What started as an
impromptu match soon became
a regular occurrence.
Of course, there were differences
between playing in Georgia and
Jordan. When I was a girl, we used
tortoises for goalposts (not always
successfully, as they tended to
wander off ). We all spoke Arabic
and went home to comfortable
houses. Many of my family
members held powerful positions
in business or government. In
Georgia, the kids used rocks as
goalposts; most of them spoke
different languages and went
home to cramped apartments.
The complex was in Clarkston,
a suburb of Atlanta and one of the
•
top refugee resettlement hubs
in the US. Almost all the families
living there had recently arrived
in the US and were doing their
best to rebuild their lives after
fleeing war and persecution:
navigating the unforgiving maze
of US immigration policy, learning
English, working long hours and
facing rampant xenophobia.
As a refugee myself, I knew how
isolating this experience could
be. I left Jordan in the early 90s
to go to university in the US. As
a gay woman raised in a country
where attitudes to homosexuality
are extremely hostile, I had spent
my life feeling out of place, forced
to hide core parts of myself.
I came into my own at university
in Massachusetts and realised
I would never survive a lifetime
of suppressing who I was back
home. So, when I was 21, I applied
for political asylum, which
was granted in 1997. My family
disowned me when I broke the
news to them that I wasn’t coming
back. Overnight, I went from being
the child of millionaires to having
nothing – no family, no money, no
idea how I was going to survive.
I spent a year washing dishes
and scrubbing toilets. Then I
landed a job in Atlanta coaching
elite girls’ football. As I had played
in college, they waived the training
requirements for me. I loved my
team and I soon got used to a life
of privilege again. Football became
about winning – about having the
best and being the best, above
anything else.
That is what struck me when
I happened upon that game
with the deflated ball. My job
was less than five miles from
that field in Clarkston, but it
was a different world.
The scrappy Clarkston crew
eventually became a team – the
Fugees. We stood out instantly:
I was a female coach of black,
Asian and minority ethnic players
in a league where white kids and
male coaches made up the majority.
By the middle of the first season,
the Fugees were walloping their
opponents. The football team
evolved into a study group, then a
school – Fugees Academy – where
we have built a trauma-informed,
community-centred approach to
refugee education that serves as
a model for schools across the US.
As a society, too often we
cherrypick the most exceptional
“success stories” of refugees and
Wednesday 1 November 2023
Mufleh with
the Fugees
team in 2010
As a former
immigrants, putting them on a
pedestal instead of thinking about
what it really means to succeed.
Yes, I am filled with pride when one
of our students is accepted to their
dream university. But I am just as
proud – if not more so – of the kids
asylum seeker, who fail and get discouraged, but
get up and try again.
I knew how I am no longer the coach of the
elite football team; running our
isolating this non-profit, Fugees Family, takes
up all my time. When I think back
experience to that first football match, I realise
could be it changed everything about how
I define success. Now that I have
young kids of my own, that lesson
resonates even more. Yes, I am still
competitive and want the best for
my children. I want them to win
Mufleh at – but I want them to play, rest and
the school love themselves more. I don’t need
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF FUGEES FAMILY
them to have perfect test scores.
I don’t need to be the perfect
mother. What I strive for, every day,
is to show resilience and a belief in
myself that makes self-confidence
second nature to them.
Believe in Them: One Woman’s Fight
for Justice for Refugee Children
by Luma Mufleh is published by
Cogito (£9.99). To order a copy for
£9.29, go to guardianbookshop.com.
Delivery charges may apply
 •

3
Pass notes
The Guardian
Wednesday 1 November 2023

Anita
Chaudhuri
Need more joy? The Buffets are
back – and
answer is yum yums they’re still
and Uncle Wiggily bad news

I
went for a walk down my local high street with a dear I recently received an invitation
friend the other day and we took the opportunity to
indulge in one of our favourite silly traditions.
I can’t recall how it started, but every time we pass a
that made me happy for about 10
seconds until I noticed the words
guaranteed to instil dread in my
№ 4,630
particular charity shop together, we scrutinise the items
in the window and decide which is the most hideous. The
store is particularly well equipped for the challenge, a dumping
heart: “A buffet lunch will be
served.” I felt a sense of outrage,
too, because surely, since Covid,
The king’s English
ground for tragic eveningwear, china figurines, questionable buffets have been consigned to Age: The first citation dates back to 1553.
puppets and paintings from the outer suburbs of outsider art. the food waste bin of history. Appearance: Fast vanishing.
For some reason, this never fails to raise my spirits. So I felt a Something weird happens to What is? The king’s English.
sense of validation when I read a New York Times article with the me when I am confronted with a Is he now? Sorry?
headline Why you should make time for oddball rituals. These trestle table groaning with UFOs For what? Goodness. Shall we start again?
weird little practices are, apparently, really good for us. They can (unidentified food offerings). Yes, and please choose your words more
help us with performance anxiety, strengthen relationships and Rather than being rational and carefully this time. I was just saying that the
make us feel more in control of our lives. “While habits help us to deciding on a sensible food king’s English – English as spoken in court,
organise important tasks by routinising them and making them combination, I abandon all also known as received pronunciation (RP)
mundane, rituals imbue our lives with meaning by making certain culinary common sense and or proper English – is disappearing.
things special,” writes Dimitris Xygalatas in his book Ritual: How behave like a contestant on No wonder we’re having trouble
Seemingly Senseless Acts Make Life Worth Living. While a habit Supermarket Sweep. communicating. Meanwhile, cockney –
usually has a clear goal, a ritual does not. On this one occasion, my the classic accent of east London’s working
That is a big reason why such behaviours often evoke a sense of competitive instinct will rise to class – is also fading away.
foolhardy joy. I know someone who, every time she gets in from the fore. I will race to be first in What do we all speak now? Portuguese? Take
work, bursts into a rendition of Peters and Lee’s the queue, elbows out, then move your choice. The traditional accents of London
Wrap it lavishly Welcome Home; all I can say is her family must
really love her. Another oddity is practised by old
at speed in a misplaced need to
beat my fellow diners to all the
and the south-east of England have evolved
into three distinct strains: standard southern
enough and even friends of mine on New Year’s Eve. Every year,
they don coats and boots and walk around the
“good stuff ”.
This is ridiculous, because –
British English (SSBE), estuary English (EE)
and multicultural London English (MLE).
a mini chocolate block carrying a suitcase. A tradition introduced to
them by a Peruvian family member, it is supposed
newsflash – this is a buffet.
We are talking about plates of
Which is best? That depends on your
background, but the distinctions between
bar can bring to augur well for world travel in the coming year.
“It seems to work for her,” says my friend Patricia.
curling, hard-to-identify cured
meats, deep-bowl salads hiding
the three are much less stark than the
contrast between RP and cockney.
comfort “Not so much for us – but we always get at least
one mini-break abroad a year, so who knows?”
problematic ingredients, such as
raw onions and pumpkin seeds,
Says who? A new study from the University
of Essex, which analysed the speech patterns
Rituals around travel are common. In my dressings that appear benign until of 200 participants. About 26% spoke EE,
family, we have a tradition of always buying yum you realise, when it’s already half spoke SSBE and the rest spoke MLE.
yums if we are going on a long train journey. It far too late, that your plate is What are the differences? It’s to do with
has to be this twisted doughnut; no other pastry swimming in a lake of pungent certain pronunciations. Both EE and SSBE
will suffice. Then there are the car journey blue-cheese slime. feature glottal stops – unvoiced Ts – but in
rituals, such as the daft singalongs that will see To compound the problem, EE it can happen in the middle of words –
us belting out Christmas Is Coming in July. buffet lighting is invariably poor; eg “wa’er for “water” – whereas in SSBE it
My friends Annie and Allen have a ceremonial mistakes will be made. happens only at the end of words.
practice involving bunking off for an impromptu I still shudder at the memory I don’t get it. Perhaps it’s easier to use
night away from home, which they have dubbed of attending a conference where celebrity examples.
“doing an Uncle Wiggily”. I had often seen their I was keen to impress my fellow Yes please. Adele and Jay Blades speak EE;
jaunts depicted on Facebook, but they had to attenders. A group of us went up SSBE means talking like Ellie Goulding or
explain the meaning of the term. to the buffet together. When I Prince Harry; MLE is spoken by Stormzy
As a child, Allen had been given an Uncle returned to the table, the woman and Bukayo Saka.
Wiggily book by American cousins. Wiggily turns next to me glanced at my plate. It’s difficult to know where I fit into all this.
out to be an elderly rabbit who drives a bus and “What’s that?” she asked, Sex and ethnicity play a part. Black and Asian
whisks children off for spontaneous adventures. gesturing at a lovely golden British individuals were more likely to speak
Apart from being fun, these activities can help wedge of quiche perched on the MLE. White males were evenly split between
us to cope with stressful or sad events. During the endless calendar edge of my pyramid of sausage the SSBE and EE categories, but women were
of orthopaedic appointments to mend my broken shoulder this year, rolls, garlic bread and beetroot more likely to fall into SSBE. Does that help?
a friend who lived nearby created a bright spot by arranging to meet slaw. “I didn’t notice that one.” Not really. I’m still not sure where I belong.
me for scrambled eggs at the cafe across the street after each visit. By Feeling smug, I took a big bite Geography plays a role. Where were you born?
the end of my treatment, I had come to really look forward to going. and nearly choked. It wasn’t Dundee. I see your problem.
COVER: WINNI WINTERMEYER/THE GUARDIAN

Bereavement is another life experience where rituals can help. quiche – it was lemon tart. Too Does no one in the south-east speak the
Having gone through my own losses, and wanting to support mortified to confess my error, king’s English any more? It’s pretty much
friends facing the same, I established a ritual of sending small gifts. I had to force it down between just the king at this point.
But rather than shove the mini chocolate bar or poetry book into mouthfuls of vinegar-doused And is the drift away from the king’s English
an envelope, I now elaborately wrap the items with lavish paper, garlic bread. inevitable? Pretty much. “Attempting
ribbons, bows and proper gift tags. This performance always cheers “Anyone for dessert?” asked to prevent accents from changing is like
me up, because it’s so over the top, given the modest nature of the my table-mate. For the first sweeping back an incoming tide with a
contents, and I know it offers some small comfort to the recipients. and only time at a buffet, I was broom,” said Dr Amanda Cole, the study’s
So, you may risk looking a bit eccentric, but trust me, adopting an forced to utter the immortal lead researcher. “Instead, we should embrace
oddball ritual or two can brighten up your life – not to mention those words: “I’ve had quite enough linguistic diversity.”
of your loved ones. to eat, thanks.” Do say: “Awright, your majesty?”
Don’t say: “I remember when everyone
around here spoke like Dick Van Dyke.”

4 The Guardian
21 ways to make winter
mornings work for you
Short days, long nights, wind, clouds, rain
and sleet: with the world so gloomy it can
be a struggle to get out of bed. But help is
at hand, as Guardian readers share their
tips for how to start the day on a high
Laugh your
way to work
with a podcast
I don’t lie in bed and fight the clock.
I make a hot milky coffee and take
my hammock out to the garden,
which is secluded and quiet. I hitch
it up and climb into the hammock
to watch the stars in the sky as
they are slowly extinguished by
the dawn. Cindy-Lee Noble, 67,
retired gardener, Dorset
I have to get up at 5.20am to
commute from Leeds to Sheffield.
It’s a bus, a train and a tram, so I
need something to gird my loins
when I leave my flat in pitch
darkness. I listen to my favourite
podcasts (Elis James and John
Robins’ podcast never fails to
lift my spirits). Everyone on the
bus probably thinks I’m weird
for laughing to myself, but I’d be
crying otherwise. Lucy, 35, higher
education research support, Leeds
I have a chronic illness, so when
mornings are dark, I find it extra
hard to get out of my warm bed. I
set a portable radiator on a timer
for an hour before I wake up,
•
then use a smart plug to switch
on a salt lamp with my morning
alarm. Then I read a poem in bed
(the Poetry Foundation does great
anthologies), light some incense
and do some gentle yoga under
a blanket. Even a few minutes
gives me a sense of achievement
before the sun is up. Amy, 33,
actor, Lancashire
I meet a friend at 7.30am for a 5km
run with our dogs. We commit
to the run the night before. We
go in all weather, unless there
is torrential rain, snow or ice.
It’s 40 minutes of exercise, but,
more importantly, we laugh. It
sets us up for the day ahead and
definitely helps to lift the mood.
The dogs enjoy it, too! Sally, 45,
head of strategic partnerships,
Chebsey, Staffordshire
I wake up about 5.50am every day.
At this time of year, it’s starting to
get a bit grim – dark, sometimes
wet and cold. But I always get up,
make a decent coffee and sit in my
drawing room with the curtains
open, waiting for the dawn as
I read the Guardian on my tablet.
If it’s really cold or I’m feeling
glum, I make a fire and stare at it
until the winter sun has crawled
over the horizon. Michael Hainge,
56, commercial consultant,
Wantage, Oxfordshire
I recently started working with a
personal trainer, so I go to the gym
and lift heavy weights. I’ve found it
to be really effective at levelling out
my moods and I don’t feel so grim
as we head into winter. Alongside
the gym, I also use an alarm clock
with an inbuilt Sad [seasonal
I get up at about
affective disorder] light, as well
as making sure I take vitamin D.
5.30am and Eva, 39, pottery teacher, Stockport
have a shower I love to go walking with two of
my friends and their dogs to a
then go back wonderful bakery in town. We
queue up from just before 7.30am,
to bed with a when it opens, to get hot, fresh
coffee and the occasional loaf or
cup of tea cake. We catch up on our news
Wednesday 1 November 2023
and give support to each other
before going home to start our
working days. It helps me all year
round, but particularly as we go
into the winter. Jo Bowditch, 52,
construction trainer and assessor,
Market Harborough, Leicestershire
I have never been a morning
person and I always struggle to
get out of bed. I literally brighten
up dark mornings using a high-
wattage daylight bulb on a time
switch in the bedroom, set to go
off at the same time as the alarm
clock. It’s a bit of a shock, but I’m
sure it helps to keep my body
clock in sync. Steve Conner, 45,
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES
engineer, Glasgow
Nice smells help me to feel more
upbeat. On gloomy mornings, I start
a meal in my slow cooker – usually
a beef roast with potatoes, carrots,
onions, tomatoes and herbs – and
set it to cook for 10 hours. If I am
working from home that day, the
smell fills the house and lifts my
mood in anticipation of a delicious

The Guardian
Wednesday 1 November 2023
Take the dog for
an early walk
Stop off for a
treat at your
favourite cafe
dinner with my family. Dorothy, 50,
lawyer, Maryland, US
One of life’s simplest pleasures
– warm clothes. As I get ready, I
warm my clothes for the day on the
radiator, shaking off the temptation
to get back into bed or stay in my
bathrobe. Ideally, I put them on last
thing, meaning I can enjoy a few
moments of toasty bliss as I slip out
of the door. Hannah, London
On working days, I get up between
5.30am and 6am. I always begin
with a shower, then return to bed
with tea, where I spend half an hour
Enjoy dawn
breaking in
the garden
•
reading, journalling or meditating.
This is my payoff for early rising
on dark, wintry mornings – time
for myself to be quietly absorbed,
creative and reflective. It sets the
tone for my whole day. Rachel, 58,
counsellor, Birmingham
A cold shower! Works wonders.
Sean Tresilian, 67, retired
teacher, Cardiff
I wake up early enough to have
coffee and breakfast in bed. Once I
am set up with something to read, I
use my Lumie light-therapy lamp. I
struggle with depression, which is
Stay in bed
and read for
an extra hour
often worse in winter, and the light
therapy helps me to resist the urge
to stay in bed, go back to sleep and
isolate myself. Kate, 34, children’s
mental health nurse
I have coffee and then watch the
sunrise in the garden, listening
to birds and caring for the plants.
Connecting this way gives me
calm and balance. Lena Welli, 48,
designer, California, US
I know it’s supposed to be
hygge, skiing and candles, but
Scandinavians these days do it with
the help of vast amounts of coffee.
The further north you go in Norway,
the more free coffee there is. Half a
year ago, I bought a used espresso
machine, and that’s getting me
through the dark times this winter.
Ben McPherson, writer, Oslo
I find that chocolate helps to
lift my mood, but I do worry
about the extra sugar. Now, I’ve
found a perfect solution: after
cooking my jumbo-oats porridge
in the microwave with a sliced
homegrown apple, I stir in two
teaspoons of good-quality cocoa.
It’s delicious, I get my chocolate
boost and it helps lift my mood on
a dark morning. Carol, 65, retired
teacher, Wallasey, Merseyside
I try to run every second morning.
Motivation is very hard. I get my
running clothes on, including my
running shoes, then get back into
bed with a cup of tea and cuddle
my dog until I am ready to face the
next step – going out into the street.
On the days I run, I have about
400% more energy, which lasts all
day. Jean, 65, retired, Whitley Bay
Because of the energy crisis, I
no longer use the gas fire; I’ve
put an old electric fire in its
place. I’ve had it since 1995 and
I’m glad I never threw it away.
With the thermostat set as low as
possible, the orange glow makes
the living room feel warmer than
it is. Bart Anderson-Groen, 60,
psychiatrist, Netherlands
5
I watch the
sunrise in
the garden,
while listening
to the birds
Get running to
up your energy
Ground yourself
with your
favourite scent
My husband and I, and our
two dogs, have breakfast at
a nice cafe and pastry shop
five minutes from home. The
little walk helps, then we have
cappuccinos, warm croissants
and, above all, a nice chat
with the owner and the other
customers. It is the human
connection that lifts our mood.
Valeria, 58, tour guide, Italy
I start the day with my little
orange speaker. I put it on,
connect to my Spotify and put
on my morning playlist. I make
sure it’s on shuffle so I always get
a surprise. It never fails to lift me
up. Evie, 45, office worker, Essex
I’ve learned to ground myself
with my favourite scents before
setting off for work. A pan of
boiling karak chai on the hob,
spiced with cinnamon, ginger
and cardamom, is a treat that
lifts me up on dark mornings.
Shaghufta, 46, children’s
social worker, Blackburn
 •

6 The Guardian
Wednesday 1 November 2023

B
accounts involved testing crisps

More than
and savoury ice-cream. But it’s
sandwiches that have taken off;
he has just signed a deal to write
a sandwich recipe book.
Sandwiches are, at least in
bread-eating countries, “the most

a filling
universal of all fast food”, writes
arry Bee Wilson in her book Sandwich:
Enderwick’s adventures in A Global History. “They are eaten
sandwiches began with a filling by schoolchildren and high-court
of chopped raw oysters. It was, judges, by soldiers and pacifists,
he says, “so gross”. Still, his epic by busy call-centre workers and
sandwich exploration continued leisurely picnickers.” People in
with gusto. Since December 2018, the UK, she writes, each eat an
Enderwick – a one-man historical estimated 200 sandwiches a year.
For most of us, the sandwich is just a quick lunch. For Barry re-enaction society, armed with
mayonnaise and old cookery books
The sandwich, Wilson continues,
liberated us “from the constraints
Enderwick, who has recreated more than 700 classic recipes, – has recreated recipes for his social
media accounts, Sandwiches of
and rules of formal meals”.
John Montagu, the fourth Earl
it’s history on a plate. Emine Saner shares the highs and lows History. What began as occasional
posts on Instagram, and then
of Sandwich, gave his name to
the creation in the 18th century –
TikTok, has now turned into a daily eating, one-handed, beef between
lunchtime creation for hundreds bread – but, of course, he didn’t
of thousands of followers. invent the sandwich. In cultures all
Its success has come as over world, humans had been using
something of a surprise. bread as a vehicle or envelope for
“This shouldn’t have worked,” he meat and other foods for almost
says. “I’m a 55-year-old balding guy certainly thousands of years.
on social media; there’s no way I Enderwick’s sandwiches, which
should have had anybody following have so far mainly focused on
me. I can speculate that amid all
the people dancing, shaking, doing
whatever, I’m the guy standing in
his kitchen like: ‘Hey, let’s make
a sandwich.’ There’s a calmness
about it.” But mainly, he says, it’s
that “sandwiches have universal
appeal. You can put anything
in there. You can cross
cuisines, and it’s portable. John Montagu,
You can make a sandwich the fourth Earl
really expensive if you want of Sandwich
to, but by default, it is not
an expensive food item.”
Enderwick estimates he has
filmed the making of close to 700
sandwiches. It began when a friend
sent him a pdf of a little-known
1909 masterpiece called The Up-to-
Date Sandwich Book: 400 Ways
to Make a Sandwich, featuring
Barry such creations as the peanut,
Enderwick banana, lettuce and mayonnaise
with a pan sandwich, and a sardine and cream
bagnat cheese monstrosity. From the
start, Enderwick planned to make
a social media project of it. Since
I want to be
then, he has scoured other recipe
books, almost all American and
able to fit it in
with delightfully straightforward
titles, including 500 Tasty
my mouth. And
Sandwiches (1941). There’s even, the flavours
for British followers, Ken Dodd’s
Butty Book (once a week, he must be there
finds an international recipe, and
also now includes family recipes for a reason
from followers). “I love the idea
of looking at what people ate in
different eras, and seeing if that
is something that we would enjoy
today. And I do love sandwiches.”
He is a relative latecomer to the
deliciousness of food. His parents,
he says kindly, were not the best
cooks. It wasn’t until he met his
partner that he realised what things
were really supposed to taste A selection of
like. “Since then, I love to cook, to Enderwick’s
explore,” he says over Zoom from favourite
California, wearing one of the floral recipe books
shirts familiar from his videos.
Enderwick’s career, his bread and
butter if you will, is in marketing,
including 11 years at Netflix, but
he was always interested in food
on the side – previous social media

The Guardian
Wednesday 1 November 2023
20th-century recipes, are positively
modern, if also unfamiliar. I like
the trends in ingredients, such as
the regularity with which almonds
pop up in sandwiches in his earliest
recipe books, and the enthusiasm
among American recipe-writers for
Worcestershire sauce.
“And tinned fish was big in the
early sandwiches as well, and
understandably so. You could have
that anywhere in the country – you
didn’t have to be at a port to get
fresh fish. A lot of pimentos were
used for a while, and olives were
a mainstay in older recipes across
many decades.”
He has trained his eye on the
trends among modern sandwiches.
“For a while it was just bigger, more
extravagant, throw everything on
it, which I’m not a fan of. First, I
want to be able to fit it in my mouth.
Second, I want to make sure that
the flavours are there for a reason.”
It’s true that some of today’s fillings
can sound try-hard and gimmicky,
but looking at Enderwick’s menu
of sandwiches, you realise nothing
is really new.
In The Up-to-Date Sandwich
Book, one is made from popcorn,
cayenne pepper, sardines, ketchup
and parmesan. Mushrooms are
paired with ground lobster and
ketchup (from the 1902 book
101 Sandwiches), cream cheese is
mixed with cornflakes (from 1936’s
1001 Sandwiches), and there is
even a banana and salmon creation
from 1967. Bow down before the
not-entirely-appetisingly named
Bummers Custard “sandwich”
(from 1909, it’s served on crackers),
with its filling of roquefort, brandy,
olive oil and Worcestershire sauce.
Onion juice features in a cheese
sandwich from 1936.
W
e may scoff
at the modern idea of a “breadless”
sandwich, one that someone in
mortal fear of carbs might pull out
of a lunch bag, but The Up-to-Date
Sandwich Book got there first –
its “dairy sandwich” is simply
two slices of Swiss cheese, with
butter between. For all that the
modern sandwich is supposed to
PHOTOGRAPHS: MACMILLAN; WINNI WINTERMEYER/THE GUARDIAN
•
I’m a 55-year-
old balding guy.
There’s no way
I should have
had anybody
following me
A peanut
butter and jelly Vietnamese bánh mì is
sandwich, made one of his favourites,
to a 1901 recipe while the oldest recipe
be quick and easy – the ultimate
capitalist foodstuff gets people
fed and back to work, or better
still feeds them while they are still
at work – many older recipes are
ridiculously time-consuming or
complex. “Some recipes turn out
to be pretty tasty, but some of them
are overly complex for no reason,”
says Enderwick. Imagine soaking
a chopped hotdog, grated cheese
and cream cheese sandwich in a
milk and egg mixture overnight, as
one recipe has it, then baking it in
the oven. Some sandwiches need
special dressings to be mixed. Egg
yolks are common in Enderwick’s
earlier recipe books, he says, “and
many of them call for the yolk of
hard-boiled eggs, pushed through
a sieve”.
Through the medium of bread
and fillings, you can also trace
societal and cultural shifts. “It’s
interesting, because there’s a
book, 1001 Sandwiches, from 1936,
right in the Great Depression. Sure
enough, they have sandwiches
that are kind of bare bones, but the
book also has a caviar sandwich.”
In the post-second world
war US, “there are definitely
more processed ingredients,
like cheese”. Later, sandwiches
become sweeter, Enderwick says,
with sugar added to bread and
sauces: “That was part of the plan
by companies to sell more.” Portion
sizes began to swell around then,
too. “Definitely towards the mid-
century, sandwich sizes started
to grow. The earlier sandwiches
are thin fillings. One of the things
that used to happen a lot in the old
sandwiches is they would grind
ingredients together – grind the
ham and nuts, mix with butter.
I think part of the reason for that is
to make the protein, which would
be expensive, go further. As you
get towards modern times, you
start to see slices of ham.”
He is fascinated, he says, “to
see there’s sandwiches in just
about every cuisine”. He regularly
tries recipes from all
over the world: the
he has tried is the rou
jia mo, originating in the Shaanxi
province in China, from about
200BC, featuring spiced meat.
What other sandwich discoveries
has he made? The many uses of
peanut butter, he says, though he
perhaps shouldn’t be surprised
when he grew up eating peanut
butter and dill pickle sandwiches.
“There’s a lot of opportunities
for peanut butter to be used as a
savoury ingredient in a sandwich.
My grandmother used to make a
sandwich with peanut butter and
a fried egg.” Enderwick added hot
sauce and coriander, “and that is
a tasty combination”.
The concept of a “dessert
sandwich” is something he hadn’t
really considered before. The
nostalgic comfort of a jam or
marmalade sandwich is familiar,
but I like the sound of one 1909
recipe he tried, featuring thin
lemon slices, rinds cut off, and
sprinkled with sugar, between
buttered bread. “There’s a
chocolate sandwich from 1908,”
says Enderwick – it involved
melting chocolate and sugar with
wine. “It brought out the wine-y
notes of the chocolate and it was
really good.”
Enderwick is unafraid to
wade into sandwich controversy –
a hotdog, he would argue, is a
sandwich. Burgers are too, he says.
He also features open sandwiches,
(in my view an oxymoron; this is
where he and I part ways). As for
cutting sandwiches, “I’m of the
opinion that diagonally is great
because it fits in your mouth better,
you get more surface area, and
more ingredients in there. But
that doesn’t mean that I’m going
to be hardline about it. This is a
sandwich. Have fun, enjoy it.”
Does he ever wish he hadn’t
started? Does he wake up in the
morning and dread his daily
sandwich? “I do not,” he says.
“I don’t get sick of sandwiches;
I love them. There are times when
I’m not shooting a sandwich where
I’m like: I’m hungry – I need to eat
something.”
An idea pops into his head –
something quick, easy, filling and
tasty. “I’ll make a sandwich.”
7
Barry Enderwick’s
Top 5 sandwiches
The Tomato (from the 2022
cookbook by New Orleans
sandwich shop Turkey and the
Wolf, pictured left): sliced tomato
with salt and pepper, salted roasted
sunflower seeds, dill, basil, lemon
juice, mayonnaise. “Recent history,
and easily the most delicious
vegetarian sandwich I’ve ever had.
I’ve made it three times off-camera.
It has no business being that good.”
Reuben sandwich (1930s): corned
beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese with
Russian dressing (mayonnaise,
mustard, ketchup and other
ingredients) on toasted rye bread.
“It was created in the midwest and
it is just fantastic, delicious and
wonderful.”
Pan bagnat (originating in Nice,
France): tomato, cucumber, red
onion, rocket and radish, with a
vinaigrette dressing with oregano
and marjoram. Fill a baguette, add
sliced egg, tuna and anchovies.
Leave overnight, wrapped and
weighed down, in the fridge. “It’s
like a salade niçoise in bread.
Everything soaks into the bread
and it’s just so good.”
Rou jia mo (circa 200BC): beef
marinated in soy sauce, sesame
oil, cumin, fennel seed, cinnamon,
nutmeg and cloves, served in a bun
with onions and ground ginger.
“There are so many different
seasonings, and it’s so delicious
and flavourful.”
Superb club sandwich (1974):
prawns, mayonnaise, condensed
mushroom soup, grated cheese, baked
until cheese melts. “You feel like it’s
not great for you, but it’s tasty.”
And the five worst
Yeast sandwich (1936): a block
of compressed fresh yeast, mixed
with Worcestershire sauce. “It was
not good.”
Oyster sandwich (1909): chopped
up raw oysters, olive oil and
Worcestershire sauce, with lettuce.
“It was a slimy mess; so gross. No.”
Farmer’s egg sandwich (1912):
hard boiled eggs, with homemade
vinegary mayonnaise. “The reason
this was terrible was because it
said to boil the egg for 30 minutes.
I can’t figure out why, but there
are other recipes that call for 30 to
45 minutes to boil an egg. It tastes
like sulphur.”
Goblin sandwich (1946): toasted
chopped Brazil nuts, devilled ham,
avocado, Worcestershire sauce,
served in a doughnut. “This was
weird.”
Cheese sandwich No 2 (1912): pub
cheese (a type of cream cheese),
A how-to guide parmesan, salt, pepper, anchovy
for Turkey and paste and tarragon vinegar. “It
the Wolf’s doesn’t sound bad – the problem
sandwich is the amount of salt made it taste
The Tomato like a salt lick. Just awful.”

8 The Guardian
‘Within a
year, they’ll
be partying’
Forget boring retirement homes. This
radical, open-plan social housing for
over-65s looks like an alpine spa and
boasts film nights, yoga sessions –
and perfect corners for a bottle or two
of wine. Oliver Wainwright reports
I
f you hadn’t walked in
from a stretch of bustling city life,
you’d be forgiven for thinking you
were in an Alpine spa hotel. Water
runs along a channel beside a lush
bed of ferns in a sunny courtyard,
before tinkling into a shallow pool
beneath the dappled shade of
mature ginkgo trees. On timber-
lined walkways that wrap this
tranquil space, some residents sit
on benches outside their flats while
others tend to herbs in the rooftop
garden. The only signs of the rat
race are the red double-decker
buses, visible from the courtyard
windows of this new almshouse in
south London.
“People are so often pushed
to the margins in later life,” says
Martyn Craddock, chief executive
of United St Saviour’s, the charity
behind this handsome new block of
social housing for over-65s. “We are
here to provide an option for people
who want to live independently in
the centre of the city – and have fun
in their later years.”
The word almshouse may conjure
images of medieval paupers living
a monastic existence, squirrelled
away behind high-gated walls.
But Appleby Blue, as the building
is named, has been conceived as
a lively social hub for its residents
and the wider community. “It’s the
opposite of a retreat,” says Stephen
Witherford of architects Witherford
Watson Mann. “The traditional
almshouse was often a U-shaped
•
Arts Wednesday 1 November 2023
courtyard of homes, with social
spaces shielded away from public
view at the back. We’ve turned that
around and put the heart of the
community right on the street.”
A huge wooden bay window
projects out from the five-storey
purple brick building towards the
busy main road, framing a cosy
space of armchairs and sofas where
residents can sit and watch the world
go by. “A group of us often come
here with our bottles of wine on a
Saturday night,” says Rob McCleary,
who moved in with his wife, Sheree,
in July. “It’s nice that we can see ‘We want people
all the goings on in the street, and to live better
people wave at us from the bus. I’ve and for longer’
requested some treadmills too, so … Appleby
we can exercise with a nice view. Blue; left,
The Shard looks amazing from here, the sociable
all lit up at night.” walkways
From the street, it makes a
compelling shop window for what
an enriching later life can look like.
Behind the bay window are rooms
for hobbies and crafts, and a large
multipurpose room that plays
host to film nights, yoga sessions
and dance classes, designed,
says Craddock, “to feel like a
proper community asset and not a
residents’ lounge”.
St Saviour’s, which was founded
in 1541, near where Borough Market
now stands, is also a grant-making
trust, funding local groups for
off broad, light-flooded walkways
that circle the courtyard, sealed
says Witherford. “But the reaction
was, ‘Why would I want to sit there
When we
refugees, youth centres and music
and arts. The idea is that these
from the elements but designed
with an outdoorsy feel. They are
on my own?’” Instead, the usual
planning requirement for private
offered private
groups will make use of the new
space, helping it to feel like an
paved with terracotta tiles and
lined with planters and chunky
outdoor space has been fulfilled by
making the walkways wider and
balconies,
integral part of Bermondsey life,
not a secluded retirement home.
wooden benches that are open on
one side for wheelchair access, and
more sociable than they would
otherwise be. “It really helps with
people said:
The architecture is a radical
departure from the usual older-
have wide arms to rest a cup of tea
on, or to help people get up.
getting more reclusive people to
join in,” says Craddock. “They
‘Why would
living model of carpeted, hotel-like “In the consultation process, might sit outside their flat and chat I want to sit
corridors with flats off either side. we asked potential residents if to their neighbour one day. Within
Instead, the 57 homes are accessed they wanted private balconies,” a year they’ll be partying.” on my own?’

The Guardian
Wednesday 1 November 2023
Witherford Watson Mann, who
won the Stirling prize in 2013
‘The Shard looks
amazing from
here’ … the
new residents
for their magical reinvention of
the ruined Astley Castle for the
Landmark Trust, have brought
their acute sensitivity to context
to craft a building that feels grown
from its surroundings. On either
side, the block extends the grain
of the Victorian terraced streets,
with a dignified frontage of
two-storey bay windows, before
stepping up towards the main
road to meet the scale of the
nearby postwar social housing.
A monolithic sense of solidity and
permanence is provided by precast
concrete sills, lintels and copings,
which along with the mortar are
tinted purplish brown to match
the Danish bricks. The brick bond
is subtly varied as it rises, with
projecting bricks adding depth and
texture. It is the charity’s first new-
build project in almost 500 years,
and it looks like it’s been designed
to last just as long.
Inside, the courtyard echoes
the scale and form of the galleried
coaching inns along Borough High
Street, which were often used for
Elizabethan theatre, and it creates
a similarly active, social setting.
You can imagine the oak-framed
windows being flung open and
residents declaiming soliloquies
from the galleries – or, more likely,
hollering to their neighbour to pop
over for a cuppa. In the top-floor
flats the Tudor theme continues,
with chunky oak ceiling joists left
exposed and quirky corner window
nooks, in a welcome departure
from the usual characterless white
plasterboard interiors of most
modern housing.
Back downstairs, a communal
cooking session is under way in the
big catering kitchen to celebrate
the start of National Curry Week.
It’s a busy scene, coordinated in
part by Dr Sophia Amenyah from
Bournemouth University’s ageing
PHOTOGRAPHS: PHILIP VILE; PHILIPP EBELING
and dementia research centre. She
and another academic will be living
in the almshouse for a year, in a
novel form of embedded, on-site
research, monitoring the impacts
of growing food, cooking and
eating together on the residents’
health, wellbeing and social
connectedness.
“Food is a great social leveller,”
says Amenyah. “The residents
have been sharing stories and
•
9
Broder found
fame on Twitter
posting as
@SoSadToday
recipes from
their childhoods,
Not so sad today
we’ve given Twitter star Melissa Broder lost her father during the
them cameras to document their
cooking and we’re planning a food pandemic. She tells Shaad D’Souza how she turned
walk around Bermondsey. Living
here means I can build these close her grief into a riotously funny story of desert survival
personal relationships, so it doesn’t
M
feel like I’m barging in.” elissa Broder describes we still had this forward propulsion together.
Unusually for a later-living her third novel, Death And then when I finished the book and sent
charity, United St Saviour’s has an Valley, as “a send-up of it to my agent, I was like, ‘Oh. He’s really not
in-house head of research, Alison autofiction”. Its opening coming back.’”
Benzimra, whose role is to initiate section sticks loosely to Despite all this, Death Valley is often
these kinds of partnerships and Broder’s life: an unnamed riotously funny. While the protagonist meets
disseminate their findings beyond LA-based novelist drives out into the desert few other people in the desert, her internal
academic circles. “We don’t just on a research trip for her new book. Her monologue is accented by a motley chorus
want the research to be published father is in an intensive care unit, just as of Reddit commenters, woo-woo audiobook
in a peer-reviewed journal that Broder’s was while she was writing Death hosts and anthropomorphic rocks. Broder rose
only academics read,” she says. Valley. Her husband has a mysterious chronic to prominence as the anonymous author of an
“We want it to inform and influence illness, just as Broder’s does. But about 40 account on X (formerly Twitter) called So Sad
others in the housing and ageing pages in, things take a turn for the surreal. Today, which chronicled the abject loneliness
sector, to really understand not While on a hike, the protagonist encounters a of modern life through a wry, pithy lens.
only how to help people live longer, giant cactus. And inside the cactus she meets While Death Valley isn’t necessarily
but to live well for longer.” her father in child form. about the internet in the way that other
She recently co-authored an So begins a witty, psychedelic exploration recent millennial novels have been, it’s still
Almshouse Longevity Study with of grief – the wackiest sharply attuned to the way social media
Bayes Business School, which
found that living in an almshouse
Twitter is no book yet in an oeuvre
that includes 2018’s cult
can be a potent source of stress, solace and
absurdity, often at the same time. “Most of
can boost a resident’s lifespan by
as much as two and a half years.
longer a weird favourite The Pisces, about
a woman falling in love
us are completely in a relationship with the
internet,” says Broder, “but I also find Reddit
“The physical design of the building
is a big part of it,” she says. “Even
little village. It’s a with a merman. For Broder,
the harsh Californian
so hilarious – the language of it is very funny.
People aren’t just posting when they’re
simple things like the courtyard
form, meaning you come out of your
mishmash of hell desert provided the perfect
backdrop for a story about
having a great day, right? It’s more like when
they’re in hell and seeking an answer. I like
front door and see your neighbour a woman navigating complex feelings of, as to have a good time when I’m writing – and I
across the way, helps to tackle she puts it, “anticipatory grief”. Broder adds: knew I would have fun writing about Reddit.”
loneliness and social isolation.” “We are powerless over our emotions. We Broder’s relationship to X is more complex.
The fact that this remarkable are powerless over how long grief is going to She says the site “lost its lustre about five
place exists at all is a happy last. And we are powerless over nature. But years ago, long before ‘the musking’” –
byproduct of our faustian planning although the desert can appear desolate, it is meaning its purchase by Elon Musk. “What
system. It was built as the Section actually teeming with life – you have to learn I loved about Twitter was that it was a weird
106 affordable housing contribution how to navigate that terrain.” place where you could become friends
in a development of luxury The idea for this story of grief and desert with, like, this bat avatar, or a moose on
flats near Tate Modern called survival came to Broder during the pandemic. rollerskates. And you’d have no idea who this
Triptych Bankside, where a pair of Her father had been in an accident and was person is, but every day you’d look forward
penthouses recently sold for £20m in an ICU on the east coast. Due to Covid, to their weird tweets. Over the past five years
(not far off the £25m construction the family weren’t allowed to visit. Driving there have been more points to prove, less
cost of the entire almshouse). through the desert to her sister’s house in Las experimentation and more certitude. My
Designed by Squire & Partners Vegas – “trying to escape a feeling, like my feed doesn’t feel any more like this weird
for Slovakian developer JTRE, it narrator” – provided the spark for her not-so- little village of poetics and humour. It’s now
takes the form of a generic group of auto autofiction. Working on the book gave a less explicitly experimental, more decisive
towers dressed in rippling bronzed Broder what Covid had denied: “It made me mishmash of hell.”
PHOTOGRAPH: DYLAN COULTER/THE OBSERVER
panels, with flats arranged in the feel really connected to my dad.” The nature of Death Valley’s conception has
usual anonymous vertical silos – a She wrote it as a homage. And unlike given Broder mixed feelings about its release.
place, as the marketing spiel has it, The Pisces and 2020’s Milk Fed, which were “Since I sold the book, I’ve been like, ‘Why
“where creativity inspires life”. The written through dictation, she “wanted it am I not as glowingly happy about it as I was
well-heeled residents can enjoy a to be like poetry all along – I just wanted about Milk Fed and The Pisces?’ I published a
gym, lounge, workspace, games that level of refinement.” After writing each book – that’s what every author wants. But I
room and private cinema. But it’s chapter, she would edit it hard, sentence don’t have that celebratory feeling.” And yet,
hard to imagine they’ll be having as by sentence, in the hope that each section she adds: “It might be my favourite. I’m so
much fun as the pensioners down “would be a diamond”. proud of it, so glad it’s in the world.”
the road at Appleby Blue, chatting Her father died in May 2021 and Broder Death Valley is published by Bloomsbury
across the courtyard and sitting continued working on Death Valley for (£13.99). To support the Guardian and the
with their wine in the window, another year. “The whole time I felt like, not Observer buy a copy at guardianbookshop.com.
watching the buses go by. that it was going to bring him back, but that Delivery charges may apply
 •

10 The Guardian

TV and radio Wednesday 1 November 2023

Shetland
9pm, BBC One

Sid Owen
in HMP Shetland has always been oddly
Shrewsbury
hard to place. Its setting suggests an
element of cosy crime but it often
has surprisingly sharp claws. With
Douglas Henshall’s Jimmy Perez now
gone, it’s up to Ashley Jensen’s DI
Review Banged Up, who tries to entertain the new boy with memories of
prisoner scaldings with hot water and sugar. “His face Ruth Calder to carry the torch. She’s
Channel 4 was bubbling!”
Then comes Tory MP Johnny Mercer, Sandhurst
a Shetland native who couldn’t wait
graduate and former member of the commandos who to get off the island, but an apparent
has come, he says, to gain insight into the system. He gangland killing in London sees her
is paired with contract killer Kevin Lane who feels bad
A reality show about the time he kidnapped, beat, gassed and nearly
drowned the wrong man. Fortunately a passerby
reluctantly heading home in search of
a fugitive witness.
that gives lie to pulled his innocent victim out of the Thames and he
lived. “I’m a nice person,” says Lane, “but I had no
father to guide me.” It would be funny if there wasn’t
Phil Harrison

even the grittiest an almost visible aura of mortal danger around him.
A caption at the start of the programme assures us
Vanished: The Search
for Britain’s Missing
Hall. While regular
Who composer Murray
that all the ex-convicts involved served their time and 8pm, Channel 5 Gold’s themes are well-
prison docs are reformed. Looking at Lane, you have to hope this
assurance is firmly backed by facts. It is fascinating to
Host Dan Walker’s live
investigation series
represented, music from
classic stories such as City
watch Mercer press him on the morality of his actions. returns, bringing fresh of Death is also featured,
Is it courage or the fat cushion of privilege around him urgency to decades- along with a new full-
that makes the MP feel untouchable? old missing persons length suite from Segun
★★★★☆ Finally, in this episode, there is former Gogglebox cases. This includes Akinola, The Woman
star Marcus Luther who believes that a criminal that of two-year-old Who Fell to Earth.
Lucy Mangan career is a choice. “I grew up in the hood,” he notes.
“I chose to do the right thing. Not to do crimes.” He
Katrice Lee, last seen in
November 1981 while
Ali Catterall

is there to try to gain experience that might help him out shopping with her Payback
guide the young men at his boxing club away from mother on a British army 9pm, ITV 1
their own potential bad choices. Luther is immediately base in West Germany. It’s the penultimate
targeted by a gang who want to “G-check” him Can conversations with episode of this Scottish

W
ell, my goodness, here’s a thing: a (gangster check – see how hard he is and whether family and police offer crime drama and Lexie
reality show that feels real. I can’t he’s affiliated with a gang) by forcing him to add to resolution at last? (Morven Christie) is
remember the last time something the 20,000 or so prisoner-on-prisoner attacks that Ellen E Jones about to come to the
felt real (including reality), but happen every year. He refuses. “I’m going to be a light sickening realisation of
Banged Up strikes out against the in a dark place.” By the end of the second day, he is Signora Volpe who she’s dealing with
tide. I suspect the makers would looking strained. “Prison will take all the goodness 8pm, Drama in murdered husband
prefer their series in which celebrities do a week in you have,” notes McCoy, “and manipulate it into Emilia Fox is Sylvia, an Cal’s secret criminal
the decommissioned HMP Shrewsbury with former something negative.” uptight, perpetually world. There is a chance
inmates – instructed to behave exactly as they would Banged Up’s greatest strength is the lie it gives to What’s On furious spy in this new to escape it all, but it
have done while serving their sentences – to be referred other prison-set documentaries. What passes for Scan the QR drama. After being comes with high risk.
to as a social experiment. But it is a reality show, even the grittiest, most honest depiction of prison code below undermined by her Hollie Richardson
albeit one with far less fake tan, no expensive breasts life stands revealed as a mere shadow of a thing. The to sign up for bosses, she heads to
or dental work and with an air of genuine violence threat of violence in Shrewsbury is everywhere and the What’s On rural Italy for her niece’s Roman Kemp: The Fight
hanging over the whole. palpable. Another caption at the start may tell us newsletter, our wedding, where the for Young Lives
The opening episode introduces three of the there is security 24/7, but this is easily forgotten as free TV email quality of life has the edge 9pm, BBC Three
seven celebrities who have volunteered for this odd you watch the pressure of being locked up with 100 with the best on London. The trouble After the death of
experience. First up is Sid Owen, formerly Bianca’s volatile men build, as verbal threats of rape and other reviews, news is, as a spy, she can’t stop a friend, Roman
Rickaaaaay! in EastEnders. He credits acting with violence bounce off the walls day and night, as the and exclusive nosing around in other Kemp made the 2021
saving him from ending up in prison like most of the sheer physical strength of them as they fling chairs at writing direct people’s business. Fun documentary Our Silent
men in his family. His dad has done time for armed walls and otherwise go off is endlessly apparent and to your inbox and silly. PH Emergency, which dealt
robbery, one of his brothers for theft and another suffocatingly oppressive. How any of them – or the every Monday with men’s mental
for drug trafficking. His mum was, he says, a petty wardens – survive seems increasingly impossible to Doctor Who @ 60: A health. He returns to the
thief. “We were poor but we didn’t want for anything fathom. And how we expect anyone to emerge from Musical Celebration subject, posing another
because we’d just go out and nick it.” He seems to be there anything other than markedly worse in every way 8.30pm, BBC Four question: many men are
there partly to understand his father and brothers – for themselves, for society, for the future – becomes The BBC National now more willing to talk
better, partly to make up for not visiting them enough a ridiculous thought. Perhaps by the end of the series Orchestra of Wales and about mental health but
when he was little and scared of the place and partly this will even occur to Mercer, secure though he seems BBC Singers perform how can meaningful,
to do some strange penance for his good fortune. He in his belief that everyone can rehabilitate themselves music from Doctor Who targeted support be
is cellmates with money launderer Reece McCoy, if they really want to. at Cardiff ’s Hoddinott offered? PH
 •
The Guardian
Wednesday 1 November 2023 11

BBC One BBC Two ITV1 Channel 4 Channel 5 BBC Four

6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.15 Morning
Live (T) 10.0 Scam
Interceptors (T) 10.45
Frontline Fightback (T) 11.15
Homes Under the Hammer
(T) (R) 12.15 Bargain Hunt
(T) (R) 1.0 News (T) 1.30
Regional News (T) 1.45
Doctors (T) 2.15 Money for
Nothing (T) 3.0 Escape to
the Country (T) (R) 3.45 The
Travelling Auctioneers (T)
(R) 4.30 The Repair Shop
(T) (R) 5.15 Pointless (T) 6.0
News and Weather (T) 6.30
Regional News and Weather
(T) 7.0 The One Show (T)
7.45 EastEnders (T)
6.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 7.0
Homes Under the Hammer
(T) (R) 8.0 See Hear (T) 8.30
Marcus Wareing’s Tales from
a Kitchen Garden (T) (R) 9.0
Nicky Campbell (T) 10.0
News (T) 11.15 Politics Live
(T) 1.0 Impossible (T) (R)
1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R) 2.15
Wanted Down Under (T) (R)
3.0 Call That Hard Work? (T)
(R) 3.45 The Farmers’ Country
Showdown (T) (R) 4.15 Tribes,
Predators & Me (T) (R) 5.15
Flog It! (T) (R) 6.0 House of
Games (T) 6.30 Strictly: It
Takes Two (T) 7.0 Celebrity
Antiques Road Trip (T)
6.0 Good Morning Britain (T)
9.0 Lorraine (T) 10.0 This
Morning (T) 12.30 Loose
Women (T) 1.30 News and
Weather (T) 1.55 Local News
and Weather (T) 2.0 James
Martin’s American Adventure
(T) (R) 3.0 Lingo (T) (R) 3.59
Local News and Weather
(T) 4.0 Tipping Point (T) (R)
5.0 The Chase (T) (R) 6.0
Local News and Weather (T)
6.30 News and Weather (T)
7.30 Emmerdale (T)
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Cheers (T) (R) 7.35 Everybody
Loves Raymond (T) (R) 8.25
Frasier (T) (R) 8.55 Frasier
(T) (R) 9.25 Frasier (T) (R)
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(R) 10.55 Renovation Nation
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Steph’s Packed Lunch (T)
2.10 Countdown (T) 3.0 A
Place in the Sun (T) (R) 4.0 A
Place in the Sun (T) 5.0 Help!
We Bought a Village (T) 6.0
Four in a Bed (T) 6.30 The
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 •

TODAY’S TRIVIA CORNER ANSWER: WHITE TEETH

12 The Guardian

Puzzles Wednesday 1 November 2023

Yesterday’s Quick crossword no 16,689

solutions 1 2 3 4

Wordsearch Across Down 5 6

5 Naval base in Hawaii (5,6)
7 Semi-precious variety of agate (4)
8 Simple percussion instrument (8)
9 Dante’s tongue (7)
11 European capital – Trojan prince (5)
13 Embarrassing blunder (5)
14 Savings (4,3)
16 Land visited by Gulliver (8)
17 Small monetary unit (4)
18 Lacking distinctive features (11)
1 Author of Das Kapital (4)
2 Area of high level ground (7)
3 Herb used in pesto (5)
4 Plentiful (8) 7 8
5 Use of commas, colons, etc (11)
6 Wealthy (7,2,2)
10 Means of rescue – crease on the
palm (8)
12 Cos, eg (7) 9 10 11
15 Secret agents (5)
17 Goatee location (4) 12

13 14

Solution no 16,688 15

E L P A S O S P I R I T
S A M A A A 16 17
C O R G I M O R N I N G
A E T A A S I
P A N T H E R G L E A N
E T K O E
S HO R T E N E D
18
M R W A H
E X T R A A F F A B L E
R H T I E H C
C A R T OON W H A C K
E O R E N L
R I B E Y E T R U D G E
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Sudoku no 6,256

Sudoku no 6,257 Suguru Wordsearch

Medium. Fill the grid so that each row, column and Fill the grid so that each square in Can you find 15 “new” words in
3x3 box contains the numbers 1-9. Printable version at an outlined block contains a digit. the grid? Words can run forwards,
theguardian.com/sudoku A block of two squares contains backwards, vertically or diagonally,
the digits 1 and 2, a block of three but always in a straight, unbroken
squares contains the digits 1, 2 and line.
3, and so on. No same digit appears
in neighbouring squares, not even
diagonally.
Word wheel
CAMCORDER

Suguru

Word wheel Trivia corner

Find as many words as What is the name of
possible using the letters Zadie Smith’s debut novel?
in the wheel. Each must a. The Autograph Man
use the central letter b. White Teeth
and at least two others. c. On Beauty
Letters may be used only d. NW
once. You may not use Answer top right
plurals, foreign words or
proper nouns. There is at
least one nine-letter word
to be found. TARGET:
Want more? Get access to
Excellent-40. Good-33.
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