Professional Documents
Culture Documents
From A Linear To A Circular Economy Peruvian Case VF2
From A Linear To A Circular Economy Peruvian Case VF2
Peruvian case
Student : Fiorella Encinas
Contact : f.a.encinas.ballon@st.hanze.nl
Contents
1. Introduction ..................................................................................................................................... 1
2. Literature Review............................................................................................................................ 2
3. Methodology ................................................................................................................................... 8
3.3 Instruments.............................................................................................................................. 9
4. Findings......................................................................................................................................... 16
i
Fiorella Encinas - 436912
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
5.2 Contributions......................................................................................................................... 26
References ............................................................................................................................................. 29
Appendix ................................................................................................................................................ A
ii
Fiorella Encinas - 436912
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
List of tables
Tabla 1 Selection criteria................................................................................................................................................ 8
Tabla 2 Interviewees' information ................................................................................................................................. 9
Tabla 3:Questionnair estructure .................................................................................................................................. 10
Tabla 4 Semi-structured in-depth interview ................................................................................................................ 11
Tabla 5 Data collection procedure .............................................................................................................................. 12
Tabla 6 In-depth interview details .............................................................................................................................. 13
Tabla 7 Data analysis tests .......................................................................................................................................... 13
Tabla 8 Example of the codes and themes ................................................................................................................. 15
Tabla 9 Crombach's alpha table .................................................................................................................................. 16
Tabla 10 Descriptive analysis ....................................................................................................................................... 17
Tabla 11 Example of CE................................................................................................................................................ 21
iv
Fiorella Encinas - 436912
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
List of figures
Figure 1 Conceptual framework ................................................................................................................................... 7
Figure 2 Conceptual framework results ..................................................................................................................... 25
Figure D: Definitions of CE ..........................................................................................................................................JJ
Figure E:Fashion sector value chain (Jacometti, 2019) (Niinimäki et al., 2020) ...................................................... KK
Figure F: Closed loop CF ............................................................................................................................................... LL
v
Fiorella Encinas - 436912
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
1. Introduction
The booming of 'fast-fashion' has been accompanied by increased environmental impact, mainly
because of the significant impact on water and energy, hazardous waste, waste production and
microplastics production (Derisi, 2016). This phenomenon has become a worldwide problem affecting
developed countries and emerging economies like Peru (Jacometti, 2019), generating negative
environmental issues, social footprints, and economic difficulties (Leal et al., 2019).
The present report is based on the Circular Economy (CE) regarding the fashion industry in
Peru, that has been named Circular fashion thoughout it. The circular economy was developed in the
late '70s by Walter Stahel (Stahel & MacArthur, 2019) and have been related to several
definitions(Kirchherr et al., 2017). Most of the definitions are directly related to minimising the impact
of industrial processes in which materials circulate in a 'close-loop system' (Fischer & Pascucci, 2017).
And terms such as reduce, reuse, recycle and recover are coming to the spotlight in many different
industries (Kirchherr et al., 2017) Such as the manufacturing industry, where the fashion sector belongs.
The global fashion industry represents around US$ 920 billion and estimates to increase by
4.4% by 2024 (Global Textile Market | 2021 - 26 | Industry Share, Size, Growth - Mordor Intelligence.
). This industry(sector) encompasses the textile-manufacturing, which is part of the upstream industry
as a primary sector, and garment manufacturing, as a downstream industry part of the secondary and
tertiary sector (Wit, 2020). In Peru, the textile industry represents 6.4% of the GDP, the textile
companies represent 30,8% of the total companies in Peru and provide more than 450 mil employments.
Being one of the most representative industries according to the president Castillo , (PERÚ, Empresa
Peruana de Servicios Editoriales S. A. EDITORA, 2021)
The importance of textile and garment manufacturing in the Peruvian economy and the current
environmental problems due to fast-fashion around the world are mentioned in the II International
Forum for Circular economy (Ministerio de Ambiente, 2019). However, even though this is a pivotal
point to change footprints in the textile and garment world rare actions have been made. That is why
the problem in this research addresses how the knowledge and attitude towards the CF is affected by
the market, materials, designers, and systemic support and how all these combined block the
development of the sustainable fashion industry in Peru that contributes to not close the circle in the
CF.
1
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
This research aimed to assess consumers' attitudes and knowledge toward circular fashion in four
variables: market, designers, materials and systemic support. Additionally, this research emphasises the
importance of transitioning towards circular fashion and promoting a wise purchase.
The main research question is: What are Peruvians' knowledge levels and attitudes
towards the CF, and what are the inhibitor related to this?
• What is the most relevant reason the circular fashion is rare or non-exitance in Peru?
• Are the knowledge of CF affects a favourable attitude towards CF in Peruvians?
This research will contribute to introducing to the Circular fashion industry to Peruvian researchers,
entrepreneurs who might be interested to learn about the topic, to designers to merge this mindset in
their creations, to the government in order to illustrate what can be done and the buyer of fast fashion
to create consciousness about the topic.
This research is structured in six sections. Following the introduction, the literature review has
assessed different papers related to the circular economy and Peru's textile industry. However, there is
a lack in the existing documentation of both combined. The third sector introduces the methodological
approach, the fourth part presents the main results that were found, the fifth part presents the findings,
and the last chapter talks about the most relevant conclusions and contributions to the research,
2. Literature Review
2
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
In this research, we will focus on the analysis done by Kirchherr et al. (2017) and Rizos et al.
(2017). The first research is about the analysis of 114 definitions that were coded according to core
definitions of the 4R framework (European Commission, 2008) and systems definitions (Davis et al.,
2006) were the authors concluded that the CE is a new system economy that replaces the 'end-of-life'
at different levels of the market applying concepts such as reducing, reusing, recycling, and recovering
to benefit future generations. The second report (Rizos et al., 2017) confirms the definition created in
the Conceptualizing the Circular economy (Kirchherr et al., 2017). However, it is important to mention
that some prominent scholars take the definition given by Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which says: 'an
industrial system that is restorative or regenerative by intention and design (…)' (Stahel & MacArthur,
2019)
In Peru, the CE is also considered within the pillars of the European Green Deal, a sustainable economic
development strategy that promotes a modern, resource-efficient, and competitive economy (Diario
Oficial El Peruano, 2017). Since 2018, the European Union in Peru (EU), the Ministry of the
Environment (MINAM), the Ministry of Production (PRODUCE) and recently the Ministry of Agrarian
Development and Irrigation (MIDAGRI) have worked to continue to promote the transition towards
Circular Economy (Ministerio de Ambiente, 2019). However, most of the policies and actions were
taken are regarding plastic.
Peru's fashion sector is part of the manufacturing industry, which contributed 12.6% to the GDP of the
last trimester of 2021 (Instituto Nacional de Estadistica e Informatica, 2021) The Fashion industry is
compounded by textile and garment manufacturing, which at the same time have more different
categories (Instituto Nacional de Estadistica e Informatica, 2021). These sectors participate in 6.4% of
the Manufacturing GDP and 0.8% of the National GDP (Instituto de Estudios Economicos y Sociales,
2021) and it is constituted as the second most important sector within the manufacturing GDP, only
surpassed by the precious and non-ferrous metals industry (Gutierrez, 2019). According to SUNAT,
there are 93,861 productive units, from which the most representative are the MYPE (Micro and small
businesses) with 99.9% of participation, and the rest are big and medium companies.
The textile and garment sector are, together, one of the most important sources of employment
in the country, accounting for 8.9% of the economically active population (EAP), around 400 thousand
employees; and the sector is mostly represented by MYPES (Micro and small companies), which
represent 75% of the sector (Instituto Nacional de Estadistica e Informatica, 2021). However, according
to SNI (2021), the MYPES are 80% informal businesses, which has increased after the pandemic(LR,
2021).
3
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Regarding exportations, the textile and garment sub-sector has shown a decrease of 27% in
2020. Mainly because of the stoppage of industrial activities due to the health emergency, logistical
difficulties in customs due to social distancing measures and lower demand from the main customers
(S.A.S, 2021)The most important exported products are cotton polo shirts and shirts with 70% of the
value exported (Instituto de Estudios Economicos y Sociales, 2021)./*654
However, the fashion sector is affected by the exports of the national products and the imports
of the Chinese garments to the national market. Asian textile companies have entered the international
and national market because of the economy of scale, use of technology and minimum wages that allow
them to have cheaper prices (Gutierrez, 2019)
Some research mentioned the willingness of the consumer to sacrifice for the environment either for
the economic benefit perceived or eco-conscious of the consumer (Hao et al., 2020). However, when
discussing the attitude about CF in the Peruvian context, no studies have been done. The literature
related to the Peruvian market addressed the attitude and intentions of CE (Alvarez-Risco et al., 2021).
This research was conducted with an observational, non-experimental, prospective, and concluded that
the attitude positively influenced the CE.
H1: Attitude towards Circular Fashion differs between female and male in Peru.
H2: There is a difference regarding the attitude toward the Circular Fashion among groups with
different educational background or level.
H3: There is a difference regarding the attitude toward the Circular Fashion among groups with
different ages.
H4: There is a relationship between Peruvians' attitude towards CF and Peruvians' knowledge.
The market in this report will be divided into pre-consumer and post-consumer waste (Niinimäki et al.,
2020). A figure has been drawn (see Figure E in the appendix). Pre-consumer waste transforms raw
materials, textile manufacturers, garment manufacturers, and transport. Those players generate waste
or contamination at different stages (Jacometti, 2019).
The second group, post-consumer waste, is formed by the retailers and consumers. The
retailers generate pollution because they generate landfills and incineration of the not sold products
(Jacometti,
4
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
2019). According to Jacometti (2019) and Ninimaki et all (2020), in the pre-consumer waste, included
transformation and manufacturing process; there are environmental impacts such as energy, water and
soil consumption, use of biocides, use of non-renewable sources, gas and CO2 emissions, discharges
into the water, use of chemicals, production and overproduction waste and hazardous wastee damage
created by the consumers is the most significant to the environment (Jacometti, 2019).
In Peru, the process is the same as in Figure E in the appendix. However, the picture changes because
of the composition of the sector. According to PRODUCE (2017), 75% of the companies from the
fashion sector are MYPES, and 80% of them are informal companies that aim for lucrative results
without considering environmental damage. The different government organisations regulate the other
5% of the total of companies from the sector regarding taxes, security in the operation process,
environmental impact and social affectations (Ministerio de la produccion, 2017). Most formal textiles
and garment manufacturers lack knowledge about preserving environmental sources, so the only way
they avoid contamination is because it affects their profits (Ministerio de la P(Ministerio de la
produccion, 2017).
H5: There is a relationship between the sustainable market and the designer’s involvement in
the CF.
This research explains material from the perspective of 'Fibers' such as raw materials and yarn, which
are part of the first row of Figure E and are the materials used in the textile sub-sector; also, considers
'Fabrics' as raw materials for the garment sub-sector; and in the end but not least, the final product
manufactured are also materials for a start over the whole process (See Figure F). According to the
European Commission (European Commission, 2020), only 1% of the materials used to manufacture
clothing end up recycled, and 73% of the materials are landed in landfills or incinerated. During the
garment manufacturing of the pre-consumer process, 15% of the fabric used is wasted (Niinimäki et
al., 2020) and are incinerated or in landfills, as mentioned before. In Peru, around 117.53 thousand tons
of textile are wasted per year, causing irremediable environmental damage(Munive-Talavera et al., Sep
26, 2021).
The increasing number of pieces of clothes and fabrics called to action to create new
eco-materials (van Dam et al., 2020). However, the challenge comes from the complexity of the
fabrics and garments and the lack of technology to support Circular Fashion (Sandvik & Stubbs,
2019). As mentioned by Cédric Vanhoeck (2021), design engineer and co-founder of Resortecs
(Resortecs | Recycling made easy. ):
5
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
"Today, it is impossible to recycle clothes. There are buttons, zippers and labels, and this makes
it a really complicated task because they have to be manually removed and separated from the
textile, which is a very expensive process."
Some innovations regarding the fabrics include heat soluble yarn designed by Resort (GESTIÓN,
2021), and the extension of the lifetime by reusing, reselling, repairing and/or up-cycling (Sandvik &
Stubbs, 2019)
H6: There is a relationship between the sustainable market and the availability of sustainable
materials.
Designers are the start of a garment's idea. Since it is their responsibility to provide unique pieces of
clothing that people enjoy wearing, they are preoccupied with the artwork of the garments (Emma
Haskin, 2017). Designers disengaged between economic goals and environmental problems when
creating garments or fabrics is a topic to address due to the incremental environmental issues for
garments and fabrics (Emma Haskin, 2017) . In order to keep up with the trends and the fashion market,
speed is needed0 (Gill, 2021). This results in designers being unaware of their contribution to a fast-
fashion problem. The speed and fast-changing trends can only be kept up with by using mediocre
materials and much plastics supply and staying ahead of the competition (Smith et al., 2017a).
H8: There is a relationship between Peruvians' attitude towards CF and the designers'
involvement in the CF.
H9: There is a relationship between the designers' involvement in the CF and the availability
of sustainable materials.
The systemic support in Peru is considered governmental support in this research. According to
Alvarez-Risco et al. (Alvarez-Risco et al., 2021), the government is developing and regulating CE in
companies. The law Legislative Decree 1278 and its regulation of Supreme Decree 0142 1017 MINAM
(Ministry of the Environment) brings the structure to develop a CE in different kinds of industries and
mainly talks about solid waste, water and energy,
6
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Additionally, seven Clean Production Agreements (APLs) with companies from different
sectors have voluntarily implemented actions that promote the minimisation and valorisation of solid
waste, such as reuse and recycling, the circularity of materials through their recovery
(Alvarez-Risco et al., 2021; Ministerio de Ambiente, 2019)
However, there is no literature about Circular Fashion in Peru. The fashion sector is regulated by the
legislation beforehand mentioned in topics such as water and energy (PERÚ, Empresa Peruana de
Servicios Editoriales S. A. EDITORA, 2021).
H10 : There is a relationship between Peruvians' attitude towards CF and the systemic support
from the government.
7
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
3. Methodology
The research methodology used in this research was mixed methods, which aimed to gain insights into
Peru's CE. First, a quantitative survey method to provide descriptive design. Second, considering the
information gathered in the quantitative phase, semi-structured in-depth interviews with a person from
the Ministry of the environment in Peru and experts in the field of sustainable fashion in order to gain
depth information from experts in the topic.
The sampling technique used in this survey was random sampling to avoid biased subsets --the 87
responses roughly represent the population of Peru since the responses were 67.8% Female and 32.2%
were male; and according to the INEI --Instituto Nacional de Estadisticas e Informatica- there are 51%
females and the difference males (Instituto Nacional de Estadistica e Informatica, 2018). The mode of
the age group was between 33-48 years old, and the mode of the educational level was a bachelor. The
structured questionnaire was used on the internet self-completion questionnaire in Google Forms.
In this research, two in-depth interviews were conducted to gain insights into the increasing world
problem of the fashion industry in Peru. Therefore, purposive sampling was selected in order to obtain
reliable and trustful information. The participants were selected according to the following criteria:
TOPIC DESCRIPTION
Location: People who live in Peru.
Current work: Government and private organisations.
Field of expertise: Related to sustainable topics in Peru.
Age of experience: More than 5 years.
The sample was organised under three interviews one person from the Ministry of the
environment (MINAN – Ministerio del Ambiente), a textile owner and one designer. However, after
asking a few questions to the textile owner and the student, there were no relevant insides because
of the lack of knowledge about the topic. Nevertheless, an expert was addressed several times in
different documents
8
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
during the archival data collection. After several messages were sent through LinkedIn, an interview
was conducted with the expert in the Circular Fashion.
Table 2 provides the information regarding the background of the interviewees. Both interviewees meet
the requirements mentioned. Both interviewees have a broad knowledge of the circular economy and
sustainable issues in the reality of Peru.
A B
Name Ornela Paz Katherine Riquero
Gender Femenino Femenino
Age 35 years-old 47 years-old
CEO & Co-Founder Bee General Director of the solid waste management
Occupation
Versa directorate
Yeas of
10 year 20 year
experience
LinkedIn linkedin.com/in/ornellapazr linkedin.com/in/katherine-riquero-41296a148
Cultural
Peruvian Peruvian
(nationality)
Lecture of "Centro de Altos
Estudios de la Moda"
A lawyer with experience in the public and private
Member of the community
Working sectors, specialising in environmental and
"Practica de Moda LATAM."
experience administrative issues in the mining and agricultural
Member of Fashion
sectors
Revolution Peru
Consultant
Educational
Communicator Layer
background
Location Peru Peru
3.3 Instruments
3.3.1 Survey - Quantitative
The instruments used in this research have been an analytical self-designed survey to analyse the data
statistically. Table 3 shows how the questionnaire was structured.
9
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Qs
TYPE OF TYPE OF
SECTIONS VARIABLE NUMBE QUESTIONS
VARIABLE QUESTION
R
Section 1 Introduction of the topic and researcher
1 What is your gender? One-Choice
2 What is your nationality? One-Choice
Section 2 MODERATOR DEMOGRAPHIC 3 How old are you? Numeric
4 What is your employment status? One-Choice
5 What is your level of education? One-Choice
29 I would like to easily find recycled clothing
30 I would be willing to buy recycled clothing
The decrease in the consumption of seasonal fashion and with little durability can contribute to
DEPENDENT 31
ATTITUTE improving the environmental impact.
VARIABLE
I would allocate part of my income to buy clothes that have a longer life (those that are repairable,
32
reusable and disposable)
33 I would be willing to reduce my consumption to help protect the environment.
21 Designers are responsible for the contamination of waste garments
DESIGNERS 22 Designers do not take environmental aspects into account when creating new garments
23 Designers should create garments 4 to recycling standards.
6 Speaking of the circular economy, which of these options seems to be the opposite of the main theme?
7 Which of these ideas is NOT part of the circular economy?
KNOWLEDGE 8 How much fashion or clothing does the average person throw away each year?
9 When does Peru aim to be carbon neutral?
10 Who is responsible for promoting the adoption of a circular economy? Five-scale
Section 3
11 There is no market for sustainable clothing or clothing recycling in Peru Liker scale
In Peru, the lack of a recycling market creates an obstacle to access the necessary materials and secure
12
MARKET enough suppliers to create recycled garments
13 There are many brands/companies in Gamarra with sustainable garments
14 Most Peruvians are reluctant to buy recycled clothing
15 The availability of "non-recycled" clothing makes it easy to buy
A polo shirt can be made up of buttons or additives, 50% cotton and 50% polyester; therefore,
17
MATERIALS separating them is an expensive process.
Fashion brands should invest in the production of garments with biodegradable materials or
18
monomaterials
25 There is no legal structure to have an efficient recycling system and processes in Peru.
The government should be responsible for providing the legal and social framework regarding clothing
SYSTEMIC 26
recycling.
SUPPORT
27 In Peru, current policies do not favor companies to recycle textiles in a scalable amount
28 Companies should be responsible for promoting clothing recycling.
Section 4 Greetings
10
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
The in-depth interview was conducted with open questions to acquire broader insights into the CE in
Peru, especially in the Fashion Industry. Table 4 shows how the questions were made in order to answer
the sub-research questions and, at the same time, the main research question.
RQ VARIABLE Qs
SRQ QUESTIONS
Market 1 Is there a sustainable clothing market in Peru?
Is there any obstacle that does not allow this
Market 2
market to grow?
Is there a recycling process in the pre-
Market 3
consumption of the fabric/garment?
Is there a recycling process in the post-
Market 4
consumption of the fabric/garment?
Are there brands that use recycled clothing to
Market 5
manufacture garments?
Are there companies that create garments based
Market 6
on plastic or food waste?
Do Peruvians have a favourable perspective of
Attitude 7
recycled clothing?
What are
Peruvians' Does the technology exist to separate the types of
What is the most Materials 8
knowledge the fabric of a piece of clothing?
relevant reason the Is there any tendency to use sustainable products
levels and circular fashion is Materials 9
attitudes by large Peruvian producers?
rare or non-exitance
towards Are designers involved in the pre or post-
in Peru? Designers 10
the CF, consumption of garments?
and what Designers 11 Designers are educated on environmental issues
are the Systemic Is there any law or regulation that encourages the
inhibitor 12
Support creation or design of sustainable pieces?
related to Systemic Is there any legal structure to encourage the
this? 13
Support recycling process in pre and post-consumption?
Systemic Are there companies in Peru that encourage
14
Support recycling?
What do you think is the attitude of Peruvians
Attitude 15
towards recycled or sustainable parts?
Do you think there is a division between his
Attitude 16
wanting and doing?
What would be the main change from a linear
Market 17
economy to a circular one?
Is the knowledge of
CE affects a Is there awareness on the part of textiles or
Knowledge 18
favourable attitude clothing manufacturers regarding the
towards CF? environmental issue in their creations?
11
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
The data of the archival study was collected with information found on the data from the
University of Hanze, Ellen McArthur Foundation's website, EU Commission, United Nations,
OECD, Google Scholar and Connected Papers.
Proceeding the structure and analysis of the contextual framework, the primary
data was collected with a mixed method. In the first stage, a deductive process through a
positivism study was conducted. After that, an inductive process through interpretivism was
achieved. Table 5 shows the data collection process graphically, and table 6 shows extra
information about the in-depth interviews.
N
PROCESS INFORMATION DESCRIPTION Q OBJECTVE
Gather information from Gather
Contextual
1 different sources information from
framework
Visualise the framework different sources
Random sample technique
Technique: Online Google Form
Tool: Post and send on Social To obtain
Distributed: Media 87 descriptive
2 Survey
Number of Qs: 28 Questions Responses qualitative
Time: 15' insights
Dates: 10th – 17th December, 2021
Analysis tool: Analyse into SPSS
Technique: Purposive sample technique
Tool: Video calls by Google meets
Selection: Selection criteria
In-Depth 2 To gain insights
3 Number of Qs: 2 Interviews to specialist
Interview interviews from experts
Time: around 45' each
Dates: 6th and 15th of January, 2022
Analysis tool: Atlas ti. 8.00
12
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
A B
Location Peru Peru
Date 16th of January 9th of January
Duration 46' 09'' 53' 53''
Facility Google Meets Google Meets
Received questions in
No No
advance
Extra occurrences in
that day that is
No No
affecting the
interview.
The qualitative data was analysed by excel and SPSS 28 edition. Excel was used to analyse the
frequency and statistical results and translate the questions from Spanish to English. Table 7 shows how
the data was analysed and what tests were used. First, a reliability test was performed to measure the
validity of the data.
The qualitative data - interviews were recorded through Google Meets, transcribed
with the office tools, translated with Google Translator, and analysed by Atlas. Ti 8. The
interviews were transcribed and sent to the interviewees for member-checking to
guarantee that the interviews were conducted accurately. Therefore, the results are
derived from interviews conducted and managed appropriately.
13
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
The code of the in-depth interviews was completed with Atlas. Ti 8.0, open-coding methods
were used at first, but after repetition, axial and selective codes were used throughout the
recorded videos. After structuring the codes, these were established into themes. Table 8 shows
three examples of the list of themes; for further details, see appendix A.
14
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Interview from
Theme Code Sentences from transcription translated
Appendix - Time
Attitude "I think there is a potential market that is still slowly opening its eyes." I1 - 00:03:56
"There are perceptions that the products are very expensive, I have had to explain the reasons why they are more expensive, such as certifications,
Perception - Consumer
sustainability, sustainable value chain, etc." I1 - 00:25:58
Perception - companies "As I tell you, my perception is the following, when I hear textile companies talk about sustainability I think they are still doing it at a level where
Attitude we have our sustainability policy, that is, they are going for much more wide." I1 - 00:25:58
Attitude of "If you go, what happened to me, you are going to talk to the Gamarra entrepreneurs and you talk to them about sustainability. They, those who
entrepreneurs answer you, is that I don't care about sustainability. I have to make money." I2 - 00:48:04
"And it has happened to us and it happens to us, not from the local public. Hey, I'll tell you this mask that you have in your hands is made of fish
Examples
leather, but they smell it, no, and it's like clear and it's logical " I1 - 00:42:20
Challenges "It is still in process and I think that ecodesign, both in fashion and in any industry, is clearly that great challenge that all designers have." I1 - 00:29:21
Formation "I think fashion schools are still at a level of sustainability,(...)" I1 - 00:31:10
"Ecodesign if there is ecodesign applied, no, that is precisely that goal of zero waste, they are going for much broader issues
Designers
Company ITESSA PET plastic and they transform it into threads, and now they are making mergers, hence the cotton with Alpaca and PET yarn,
Eco-disign
sorry with cotton and PET yarn with other types of materials, no.
I don't know if you have heard of EVEA https://evea-ecofashion.com/en/." I1 - 00:21:00
"Fast- Fashion are playing a role that I do not share, let's say, but important because they are giving you garments that they say are sustainable, but
Fast fashion
at a fairly affordable price, right?" I1 - 00:10:00
Production capacity "(…)But there are also other limitations, such as the installed capacity of these projects, right?" I1 - 00:05:43
"The government is committing to change its type of economy from linear economy, circular economy. Right now, for example, there is a circular
Economic sources economy roadmap for agriculture; however, work is still being done on the issue of fashion or the textile industry. There is no allocation of
economic resources in this industry yet." I2 - 00:02:06
"The man ended up understanding it, I don't buy it and it's okay not to buy it, but he understood it, no, and he began to ask about other things, etc.
Purchase
(…)" I1 - 00:45:17
Sustainable business "(…)I was working last year with Coca Cola doing a consultancy here in Peru and they are working on all plastic recycling. So they work hand in
Market hand with social enterprises that are also seeking precisely that purpose." I1 - 00:21:19
"(...) And we came to the surprise that these these products, the brands of these products were the ones that began to lead the top 3 of the best-
Hand made product selling brands in our space. No? And then there I go with the price, because the price of the embroidered products was not a price that you say I
buy today and tomorrow and so on, if they were not embroidered jackets that cost you 300 soles." I1 - 00:08:24
"Entrepreneurs who say I do circular fashion, so I get excited because they tell me that in Peru something is being done for me.
MYPES - Entrepreneur And from the concept that I have or not then, when I ask them and we talk, they tell me, if what I do is recycle and they stick to recycling (...)" I1 - 00:27:50
"What is sustainability on the social side, he works with families from the Peruvian Amazon, specifically from the Awajún community, and
Example of companies together they discovered that, through latex, this milky liquid from the chiringa trees is obtained. Through this latex extraction without cutting
down the tree, but using ancient techniques with very delicate needles, they extract latex (...)"
I1 - 00:13:49
15
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
In the survey, the questionnaire was created with parallel questions to measure the consistency
of the responses. However, when analysing the reliability of the results in SPSS the result was
lower than 0.7 (Bonett & Wright, 2015) Table 9 shows the results.
In the research conducted using mixed methods, first, the researcher ensures that all the
participants' answers from the survey and the interviews have been gathered strictly for
academic reasons; second, the respondents from the survey remain anonymous in order to
maintain privacy; and third, no sensitive political information was asked during the research.
4. Findings
The quantitative and qualitative findings are analysed and reported in the next section to achieve the
objectives, the main research question, sub-research questions (established in section 1), and the ten
hypotheses (stated in chapter 2).
16
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
The descriptive results for the independent and dependent variables are shown in table 10.
SYSTEMIC
DEMOGRAPHIC N % STATISTIC ATTITUDE KNOWLEDGE DESIGNER MARKET MATERIALS
SUPPORT
_
4.01 1.45 3.09 3.10 3.69 3.91
Female 59 67.80% X
SD 0.48 0.24 0.49 0.65 0.48 0.51
_
3.81 1.46 3.04 2.98 3.38 3.79
Male 28 32.20% X
SD 0.55 0.21 0.33 0.75 0.68 0.43
_
3.95 1.46 3.08 3.06 3.59 3.87
Gender 28 100.00% X
SD 0.51 0.23 0.44 0.68 0.57 0.49
_
4.34 1.37 3.07 3.12 3.88 4.13
17 to 32 14 16.10% X
SD 0.45 0.23 0.45 0.83 0.48 0.39
_
3.93 1.44 3.03 2.97 3.59 3.87
33 to 48 41 47.10% X
SD 0.48 0.21 0.45 0.62 0.57 0.55
_
3.82 1.50 3.15 3.18 3.51 3.78
49 to 64 26 29.90% X
SD 0.50 0.25 0.41 0.65 0.58 0.41
_
3.67 1.57 3.08 3.06 3.28 3.67
More than 65 6 6.90% X
SD 0.55 0.23 0.56 0.90 0.57 0.44
_
3.95 1.46 3.08 3.06 3.59 3.87
Age 87 100.00% X
SD 0.51 0.21 0.44 0.68 0.57 0.49
SYSTEMIC
DEMOGRAPHIC N % STATISTIC ATTITUDE KNOWLEDGE DESIGNER MARKET MATERIALS
SUPPORT
_
4.10 1.70 3.63 4.00 4.33 4.13
Highschool 2 2.30% X
SD 0.42 0.42 0.53 0.47 - 0.18
_
3.69 1.56 3.18 3.14 3.51 3.63
Technique 17 19.54% X
SD 0.58 0.24 0.36 0.73 0.60 0.59
_
4.03 1.42 3.05 2.97 3.53 3.97
Bachellor 47 54.02% X
SD 0.48 0.21 0.42 0.63 0.58 0.44
_
3.92 1.42 2.93 3.07 3.68 3.79
Master 19 21.84% X
SD 0.44 0.24 0.46 0.75 0.49 0.49
_
4.30 1.40 3.75 3.50 4.17 4.00
Doctor 2 2.30% X
SD 0.99 - 0.71 0.24 0.24 -
_
3.95 1.46 3.08 3.06 3.59 3.87
Educational level 87 100.00% X
SD 0.51 0.23 0.44 0.68 0.57 0.49
17
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
This section shows the hypothesis tested according to the literature review.
4.2.1 Hypothesis 1
The Hypothesis (H1) indicated a difference between Peruvians’ females and males regarding the attitude
towards CF. The independent sample T-Test conducted on a five-point Likert scale showed that both
females and males are generally positively toward Circular Fashion because both means are above 3,
(3.52) females and (3.4) males. Furthermore, the attitude towards CF did not differ between females
and males in the sample t(85)=1.683, p=0.096. As a result, at a 95% confidence level, H1 is not
supported.
4.2.2 Hypothesis 2
The result showed that there was not a difference regarding the attitude towards CF among the group
with different educational levels [F(4, 82 ) = 1.7, p=0.16>0.05]. At a 95% confidence level the One-
Way Anova test showed that hypothesis (H2) was rejected. It is important to highlight those who had a
positive attitude toward CF such as: doctors(M=4.3), high school students(M=4.10), and bachelors
(M=4.03). It can be interpreted that people with more academic background and young generations are
more willing to accept CF.
4.2.3 Hypothesis 3
The hypothesis 3 (H3) stated that there was a difference regarding the attitude towards CF among groups
with different ages. According to the One-Way Anova test showed that there was a difference regarding
the attitude towards Circular Fashion among the different age groups [F(3, 83 ) = 4.36, p= 0.007<0.01].
The age group with a favourable attitude towards CF ranged between 17 to 32 with an M=4.34 and
SD=0.45. At a 99% confidence level, H3 was accepted. It can be interpreted that younger people from
the survey are more willing to adopt CF.
4.2.4 Hypothesis 4
A Pearson's correlation test was conducted in order to assess the relationship between Peruvians' attitude
towards CF and Peruvians' knowledge regarding the same topic. The results showed a moderate
negative relationship between the variables analysed (r=-0.57, p >0.01). At a 99% confidence level, H4
was not supported.
18
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
4.2.5 Hypothesis 5
Pearson's correlation test was conducted in order to assess the relationship between the sustainable
market and the designers' involvement in the CF regarding the same topic. The result indicated that
there was a weak and positive relationship between the variables analysed (r=0.25, p <0.05). At a 95%
confidence level, the hypothesis is accepted. It can be understood that the more involved designers are
with CF, the more sustainable the market increases.
4.2.6 Hypothesis 6
A Pearson's correlation test was conducted in order to assess the relationship between the sustainable
market and the availability of sustainable materials regarding CF. The test explained that there is a weak
and positive relationship between the variables analysed (r=0.21, p <0.05). At a 95% confidence level,
the hypothesis was accepted. This result can be explained as there is a relationship between the
sustainable market increase and the materials available in the market.
4.2.7 Hypothesis 7
A Pearson's correlation test was conducted in order to assess the relationship between Peruvians' attitude
towards CF and the availability of sustainable materials. The test results showed a weak and positive
relationship between the variables analysed (r=0.26, p <0.05). The outcomes can be interpreted as the
attitude of Peruvians about CF will increase when the availability of sustainable materials increases. At
a 95% confidence level, the hypothesis was accepted.
4.2.8 Hypothesis 8
A Pearson's correlation test was conducted in order to assess the relationship between Peruvians' attitude
towards CF and the designers' involvement in the CF. As a result the test showed that there is no
relationship between the variables analysed (r=0.12, p >0.01). At a 99% confidence level, the hypothesis
was rejected.
4.2.9 Hypothesis 9
Pearson's correlation test was conducted in order to assess the relationship between the designers
involvement in the CF and the availability of sustainable materials regarding the same topic. The results
showed that there was a weak and positive relationship between the variables analysed (r=0.23, p
<0.05). At 95% confidence level, the hypothesis was accepted. The outcome can be explained as the
more involve the designer are in the sustainable industry, the more they create sustainable materials.
19
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
4.2.10 Hypothesis 10
A Pearson's correlation test was conducted in order to assess the relationship between Peruvians' attitude
towards CF and the systemic support from the government about CF. The outcomes in the test were
that there was a moderate and positive relationship between the variables analysed (r=0.34, p <0.01).
At a 99% confidence level, the hypothesis was accepted. These can be understood, as the government's
systemic support could help increase a favourable attitude towards CF of Peruvians.
20
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
The professional backgrounds and knowledge of the CF and CE have been considered in the analysis
of the responses. Interviewee 1(I1) had broader knowledge about the CF; therefore, SRQ1 were mostly
addressed with I1 responses. In the case of interviewee 2 (I2), her professional experience was related
to Government management of solid waste; hence, I2 questions are regarding systemic support.
4.3.1 Sub-Research question 1: What is the most relevant reason why is the circular fashion
is rare or non-exitance?
According to Ornella Paz, there is a potential market that is still slowly opening the eyes, changes have
been made since 2010 regarding sustainability. However, talking about CF in the world, interviewee 1
mentioned that fast-fashions companies are creating more consciousness about the topic in Peru; for
instance, they are working on awareness and communication through the tag and affordable pricing (see
appendix B- 00:10:00). In the Peruvians' case, most entrepreneurs and companies that claim to do
Circular economy most of the time do recycling or sustainable practices. However, they do not complete
the process to close the loop (See Appendix B - 00:12:16). Interviewee 1 highlighted that most
companies' practices are sustainable and from the point of view of recycling. As mentioned in the
literature and by Ornella, there is a high level of informality (Bonett, Dante Carhuavilca et al., 2021),
and these players mainly aim to have economic benefits rather than economic benefits contributing to
the environment. In the case of formal companies, they create sustainability for stakeholders and
customers (See appendix B - 00:34:12). Nevertheless, some companies mentioned by interviewee 1 are
reusing solid waste (see table 11).
Tabla 11 Example of CE
INDUSTR COMPAN
Y OBJECT USES Y WEBSITE
Net Purses and wallets Not mentioned
Fisheries Fish leather, bag, shoes,
Fish skin wallets Qaya Peru https://qayaperu.com/
Chiringa https://evea-
Footwear
tree Eco-Latex for shoe sole EVEA ecofashion.com/en/
Plastic PET bottle Yarns ITTESA https://www.itessa.com.pe/en
Talking about the most important limitations for the development of the CF, the examinee responded
that the lack of technology creates and remake garments, the current production capacity of the sector,
the shortage of economic resources, the scarcity of communication about the topic, the availability of
materials and the purchase decision; are factor to consider when dealing with the CF (See appendix B
- 00:05:43).
21
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
The respondent mentioned as one limitation the availability of materials; from her consultant
perspective, she had cases where there were entrepreneurs that wanted to create the recycled garment,
but they failed to find supplier for sustainable additives, yarn and fabrics that are aligned with the CF
mindset (See appendix B- 00:37:37). Interviewee 1 mentioned that some textile companies sell the
destock to small traders, which sells the fabric to designers or garment manufacturing for small scale
production, reuse the fabrics for cleaning or industrial purposes, and/or donate them to different entities
(See Appendix B- 00:23:09). As mentioned before, the respondent talked about companies using
sustainable materials to produce eco-materials, like the one in table 11. Another comment that
interviewee 1 said was about the cost of clothes produced with organic materials, like the sweater (See
appendix B- 00:43:53), she stated: "The issue of costs, that many times the prices of tickets are also
said to be much higher, people still do not understand why the price of a sweater can be that they
perceive as very expensive.." (see appendix B- 00:05:50) Regarding recycled fabrics or garments, the
interviewee 1 said that she was not aware of a company that was using recycling fabrics or garments to
create a new piece of clothes (see appendix B- 00:20:32).
Regarding the designers' involvement in the CF, from her lecturer perspective, interviewee 1
acknowledged that: "It is still in process and I think that eco-design, both in fashion and in any industry,
is clearly that great challenge that all designers have..". As a lecturer of CEAM1, interviewee 1,
believed that fashion schools are sustainable.
Respondent 1 said the eco-design has raised from an economical goal of "Zero waste" from the
business perspective. However, some other initiatives are mentioned like EVEA and ITTESA (see table
11). She explained that EVEA uses latex from the "chiringa" tree to create shoe soles and
develop native communities (see appendix B- 00:13:49).
1
https://www.ceam.edu.pe
22
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
and ground quality. She mentioned that there is a specific law(Legislative Decree 1278 and its
regulation of Supreme Decree 0142 1017 MINAM (Ministry of the Environment). (See appendix C-
00:00:36)
"this law establishes the integral management of solid waste, 1 of the principles is the principle of
circular economy, then, For example, it could be said that there is a circular economy Peru." (See
appendix 2 00:00:47). Interviewee 2 stated that different entities regulate that companies and
stablisments do not produce any kind of danger at the environment, such as Municipalities with the
environmental operating permit. Otherwise, they would receive sanctions, as, Interviewee 2, said: "This
has administrative sanctions, not that they are pecuniary and commanders, this imperative mandates,
some are with this, they can dictate a preventive measure or a corrective measure." (See Apendix 7.2.2
- 00:12:23.)
The third code was incentives, I2 and I1 assured that there were no economic incentives to
promote the CE, but there are awards for innovations and sustainable practices (see appendix C-
00:20:57). Interview 1 mentioned that there are entities called business accelerators focused on
developing sustainable start-ups (see appendix B- 00:33:06).
The fourth code considered was promotion where regarding the promotion of the CE,
Interviewee 1 thought that no organisations help to promote the knowledge or practices with the
environment (see appendix B- 00:31:31); however, interviewee 2 stated that there are
organisations that supervise environmental matter in Peru, named National Environmental
Enforcement Agency ( see appendix C-00:29:58)
The fifth code considered was external, which according to I2, there is a project with the EU
regarding the circular economy. The EU is collaborating with the Peruvian government to develop
the CE (see appendix C-00:24:47). From the business perspective, I1 stated that companies adopt
environmental managerial because those practices demand external influences like clients and
communities affected by it. She said: "the foreign client asks for it because the foreign client complies
with those international standards." See appendix B- 00:34:57
The last code was challenges, I1, mentioned that from her perspective, the main challenges come from
"knowledge about the topic, economic factor, accessibility and lack of wide-scale dissemination" (see
appendix B-00:46:01)
23
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
According to interviewee 1, there is a long way to run regarding the CF in Peru. The perception of the
high cost of the CF garments; the acknowledgement of the value chain, certifications, and labour
conditions according to human rights are not value (see appendix B- 00:10:27). Interviewee 1 said that
people are distrustful about the origin of the materials; she explained that once she mentioned that a
face mask was made of fish leather, they smelled it. (see appendix B-00:42:20) At the end, she answered
that people understand the garments' sustainability but do not buy it (see appendix B-00:45:17).
Interviewee 2 mentioned that reusing happens less, but with High Fashion, not with Peruvian
designers' clothes (see appendix B-00:34:43). Normally, garments you do not wear are used to clean
the house (see appendix C 00:34:56). From her perspective, Peruvian's food waste is generated in larger
quantities than clothes (see appendix C -00:37:02)
Concerning the importance of the knowledge about CE and CF, in both interviews, there is a
lack of knowledge of Peruvians' about the main topics discussed in this research. From the I1
point of view, the topic is in the first step of the development of the CE and the main topics in
the agenda are plastic and water (see appendix B-00:12:16). Regarding the CF, she mentioned
that the main achievements had come from the recycling and reuse method, but entrepreneurial
do not have further knowledge about closing the loop (see appendix B-00:28:03). As stated for
I2, the government is taking action in water, plastic, food, and agricultural matter of the CE;
however, Peru's fashion sector is not a priority. (see appendix C-00:37:02)
Besides, throughout the interviews, there was a puzzlement between the CF and sustainable
practices.
24
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Demographic
Accepted
factors Rejected
Qs : 1,2,3,4,5
Knowledge H1 H2 H3
Qs : 6,7,8,9,10
H4
Designers H8
Qs : 21,22,23
H5
Attitude to
Market
H9
Qs : 11,12,13,24
adopt CE
H6 Qs : 29, 30,32, 33
Materials H7
Qs : 15,17,18
Systemic
H10
Support
Qs : 25,26,27,28
This research aimed to assess consumers' attitudes and knowledge toward circular fashion in four key
(variables)areas: market, designers, materials and systemic support. Additionally, this research
emphasised the importance of transitioning towards circular fashion and promoting a wise purchase.
25
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Nevertheless, Peru is building knowledge through the fashion schools that teach new CF
trends in a career like management and fashion design (see appendix B-00:29:34). This is aligned
with the relationship between the involvement of the designers in the CF, which will increase the
availability of the materials in the CF.
The systemic support from the government, the most relevant entity to promote CF, is related to the
attitude towards CF. However, the government is slowly adopting the CE in other sectors, not the
fashion sector.
5.2 Contributions
The present research contributes to the textile and garment sector to gain insight into the CF. This is a
trend that many countries worldwide are adopting (Mishra et al., 2021) and considering the importance
of the industry in the Peruvian economy, either in the local or the international market (S.A.S, 2021).
And as stated by I1, many companies in the fashion sector implement environmental actions because
of external players.
The close relationship between the designers and the materials found in the literature
(Sandvik & Stubbs, 2019) explained that they need to work together in order to foster the supply
chain and the CF market. Considering the Peruvian context, where more than 75% of the business in
the fashion industry are MYPEs (Instituto Nacional de Estadistica e Informatica, 2021). It is relevant
to gain insights into the knowledge and the attitude that Peruvians have towards CF.
The crucial role of the government in the topic of research showed in the previous studies
(Sandvik & Stubbs, 2019), has proven that sustainable actions should come from authorities that can
enhance the knowledge and promote hands-on actions; moreover, in developing countries like Peru.
(Dagiliene et al., 2021)
There was no information regarding the Peruvian consumers' attitude toward CF;
however, observational research conducted in Peru involving the attitude on the intention of CE found
a positive influence between those two variables (Alvarez-Risco et al., 2021). This confirms that
there is space for building a CF market if available materials and garments are available.
Last of all, this paper will contribute to building knowledge and gaining insight into the CF in Peru for
future researchers.
26
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
The research aimed to assess consumers' attitudes and knowledge about the CF considering 4 variables:
market, designers, materials, and systemic support. Throughout the study, other variables were found
such as technology, cost and price; these were found under the variables of market and attitude. It is
important to highlight the reliability of the variables since they scored results lower than 0.7 Combrach's
alpha; this might have distorted the results.
Regarding the main research question: What are Peruvians' knowledge levels and attitudes
towards the CF, and what are the inhibitor related to this? The present paper presented that the main
steps should be promote from the government and companies since there is a gap between the attitude
and the knowledge of CF that comes from the lack of communication or knowledge, and the availability
of materials.
The sub research questions were answered through the survey and interviews and were described in the
findings.
27
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
The research limits considered the objectives, the literature, and the research methodology related to
the study in the Peruvians.
The first limitation is that the aim and objectives of this research were ambitious for
the period considered, which led to the lack of numerous responses and interviews; for future
research, more realistic goals should be set.
The second limitation is in the literature review. There are two main limitations. One is the
scarce or non-sufficient literature regarding circular fashion in Peru and Latin America.
Consequently, the secondary data collected considered different contexts, cultural and resources
variations. The second one is related to the inhibitors that were left aside and were mentioned during
the in-depth interviews. Those important inhibitors were perception, technology, and cost, were not
considered the main topic but included in the findings.
The last limitation is that the methodology was affected by three aspects. One is the self-designed
questionnaire by the researcher who had no previous experience that may lead to unrealiable answers;
the second is about the sampling technique was non-probability sampling. A generalisation about the
population is not possible in this research. Use other sources to spread the survey according to more
suitable sampling techniques for future considerations. And the last one was that the data collection
procedure could be affected by biases because the sample was not representative. For future works, use
sample techniques models, like the total survey model (TSE) (6 Errors to Avoid When Designing
Surveys. ).
28
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
References
References
management/research/survey-errors/
Alvarez-Risco, A., Estrada-Merino, A., Rosen, M. A., Vargas-Herrera, A., & Del-Aguila-Arcentales,
10.3390/environments8090095
Bonett, D. G., & Wright, T. A. (2015). Cronbach's alpha reliability: Interval estimation, hypothesis
testing, and sample size planning. Journal of Organizational Behavior, 36(1), 3-15.
10.1002/job.1960
Dagiliene, L., Varaniute, V., & Bruneckiene, J. (2021). Local governments’ perspective on
implementing the circular economy: A framework for future solutions. Journal of Cleaner
Derisi, S. (2016). Review of The Dirty Side of the Garment Industry: Fast Fashion and Its Negative
https://www.jstor.org/stable/44864111
Diario Oficial El Peruano. (2017, 21 de diciembre). Reglamento del decreto legistalivo N1278, Ley de
Emma Haskin. (2017, Jun 20,). Sustainable fashion show tackles issue of unwanted clothes head on.
29
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32008L0098&from=EN.
European Commission. (2020). A new circular action plan for a cleaner and more competitive Europe.
().
Fischer, A., & Pascucci, S. (2017). Institutional incentives in circular economy transition : The case of
material use in the Dutch textile industry. Journal of Cleaner Production, 155(2), 17-32.
10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.12.038
GESTIÓN, N. (2021). ¿Cómo puede ayudar en el reciclaje textil un hilo que se disuelve? | ECONOMIA.
Gestión. https://gestion.pe/economia/como-puede-ayudar-en-el-reciclaje-textil-un-hilo-que-se-
disuelve-noticia/
Gill, S. (2021, Aug 14,). Designer on keeping clothes and lives sustainable during a pandemic.
explore/search?query=any,contains,999107227302837&tab=innz&search_scope=INNZ&vid=N
LNZ&offset=0
Global Textile Market | 2021 - 26 | Industry Share, Size, Growth - Mordor Intelligence.
https://www.mordorintelligence.com/industry-reports/global-textile-industry---growth-trends-
and-forecast-2019---2024
Gutierrez, R. Q. (2019). Análisis de las estrategias del Marketing Digital que impulsen el
10.13140/rg.2.2.10403.20006
Hao, Y., Wang, Y., Wu, Q., Sun, S., Wang, W., & Cui, M. (2020). What affects residents' participation
in the circular economy for sustainable development? Evidence from China. Sustainable
30
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Iivari, N. (2018). Using member checking in interpretive research practice. Information Technology &
https://sni.org.pe/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Presentacion-Textil-y-confecciones-IEES.pdf
Instituto Nacional de Estadistica e Informatica. (2018). Peru: Perfil Sociodemográfico 2017. ().
Instituto Nacional de Estadistica e Informatica. (2021). Informe Tecnico de la Produccion Nacional. ().
https://www.inei.gob.pe/media/MenuRecursivo/boletines/12-informe-tecnico-produccion-
nacional-oct-2021.pdf
Jacometti, V. (2019). Circular Economy and Waste in the Fashion Industry. Laws, 8(4), 27.
10.3390/laws8040027
Kirchherr, J., Reike, D., & Hekkert, M. (2017). Conceptualizing the circular economy: An analysis of
10.1016/j.resconrec.2017.09.005
https://larepublica.pe/economia/2021/03/12/informalidad-textil-creceria-al-85-sin-salvaguardas/
https://www.gob.pe/institucion/minam/informes-publicaciones/395650-ii-foro-internacional-de-
economia-circular
Mishra, S., Jain, S., & Malhotra, G. (2021). The anatomy of circular economy transition in the fashion
31
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
evaluation of a dry anaerobic digestion reactor for the degradation of solid waste from the textile
industry with the use of fungal keratinolytic strains. Paper presented at the 155-158.
10.1109/ICRERA52334.2021.9598726 https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/9598726
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental
price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews. Earth & Environment, 1(4), 189-200. 10.1038/s43017-
020-0039-9
PERÚ, Empresa Peruana de Servicios Editoriales S. A. EDITORA. (2021, Marzo,). Industria textil y
industria-textil-y-confecciones-es-una-fuente-para-generacion-empleo-837047.aspx
Rizos, V., Tuokko, K., & Behrens, A. (2017). The Circular Economy A review of definitions, processes
and impacts
de-sectores-textil-y-confecciones-en-peru-crecieron-227-en-primer-trimestre-3165553
Sandvik, I. M., & Stubbs, W. (2019). Circular fashion supply chain through textile-to-textile recycling.
Smith, P., Baille, J., & McHattie, L. (2017a). Sustainable Design Futures: An open design vision for
the circular economy in fashion and textiles. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S1938-S1947.
10.1080/14606925.2017.1352712
32
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Smith, P., Baille, J., & McHattie, L. (2017b). Sustainable Design Futures: An open design vision for
the circular economy in fashion and textiles. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S1938-S1947.
10.1080/14606925.2017.1352712
Stahel, W. R., & MacArthur, E. (2019). Theœ circular economy (1st ed.). Routledge.
10.4324/9780429259203
van Dam, K., Simeone, L., Keskin, D., Baldassarre, B. R., Niero, M., & Morelli, N. (2020). Circular
10279. 10.3390/su122410279
33
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Appendix
And it has happened to us and it happens to us, not from the local
public. Hey, I'll tell you this mask that you have in your hands is
made of fish leather, but.
They smell it, no, and it's like clear and it's logical 00:42:20 I1
It is still in process and I think that ecodesign, both in fashion and in
Challenges
any industry, is clearly that great challenge that all designers have.
Formation I think fashion schools are still at a level of sustainability,
Ecodesign if there is ecodesign applied, no, that is precisely that goal
of zero waste, they are going for much broader issues
Designers Company ITESSA PET plastic and they transform it into threads, and
now they are making mergers, hence the cotton with Alpaca and PET
Eco-design
yarn, sorry with cotton and PET yarn with other types of materials,
no.
I don't know if you have heard of EVEA https://evea-
ecofashion.com/en/.
Fast- Fashion are playing a role that I do not share, let's say, but
Fast
important because they are giving you garments that they say are
fashion
sustainable, but at a fairly affordable price, right?
Production But there are also other limitations, such as the installed capacity of
capacity these projects, right?
Economic The governments are working on a circular economy with agriculture
Market
sources and industries related to plastic.
People question the prices of garments of sustainable origin, in the
end the client ends up understanding the reasons for the higher price
Purchase for a certified cotton polo shirt; however, I don't buy and it's okay
that I don't buy it, but he got it.
I had only experienced that they held events to spread the word YY
A
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Working last year with Coca Cola doing a consultancy here in Peru.
Plastic recycling, right? So they work hand in hand with social
Sustainable
enterprises that are also seeking precisely that purpose
business
Textil del Valle carried out the implementation of, I think I don't
know how many solar panels.
that these these products, the brands of these products were the ones
that began to lead the top 3 of the best-selling brands in our space.
Hand made No? And then there I go with the price, because the price of the
product embroidered products was not a price that you say I buy today and
tomorrow and so on, if they were not embroidered jackets that cost
you 300 soles, 350.
Entrepreneurs who say I do circular fashion, so I get excited because
they tell me that in Peru something is being done for me.
And from the concept that I have or not then, when I ask them and we
talk, they tell me, if what I do is recycle and they stick to recycling
MYPES
YES you are going to talk to the Gamarra entrepreneurs and talk to
them about sustainability. They, those who answer you, is that I don't
care about sustainability. I have to make money and end. Even worse
in a context of political and economic crisis.
There is technology in other supplies or with other other materials
such as PET, which transform it into thread to create garments. - THE
ITESSA COMPANY
Market / What is sustainability on the social side, he works with families from
Example of
systemic the Peruvian Amazon, specifically from the Awajún community, and
companies
support together they discovered that, through latex, this milky liquid from
the chiringa trees is obtained. Through this latex extraction without
cutting down the tree, but using ancient techniques with very delicate
needles, they extract latex.
The textile balances also what they did was donate it to some
Materials Donation organisation that can use it in developing other types of products with
those balances
So, and this issue has been going on for many years, right? On the
Plastic
subject of PET plastic, and they are still investigating and finding out
. The issue of costs, that many times the prices of tickets are also said
Prices -
to be much higher, people still do not understand why the price of a
Cost
sweater can be that they perceive as very expensive,
B
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
D
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Appendix B: Interview 1
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
E
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
F
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
G
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
H
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
I
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
J
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
K
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
L
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
¿Entonces, tú crees que todo el tema del cuidado del medio ambiente por
00:26:58 FE parte de las empresas textiles o de las confecionistas?
El mercado de confección viene más sobre todo por un tema de
mentalidad económica. ¿At tengo la oportunidad de venderlo, sacarle
provecho, digamos al a lo que queda de la producción a los residuos
00:27:06 FE textiles no a darle un poco de ingresos por ese lado, no?
00:27:12 OP ¿Todo bien?
¿Y dime mencionadas en el tema del ecodiseño, cuán importante es que
están el involucramiento de los diseñadores en el tema? ¿Por ejemplo,
00:27:25 FE desde la construcción de la de la tela?
Si se quiere la justamente, ahí está el reto de la economía circular que
todavía poca, o sea, todavía se está difundiendo a más personas. Creo que
00:27:38 OP todavía existimos muchas personas, me incluyo.
Que no conocemos a tal detalle, la economía circular, o sea, te digo, yo he
conversado con algunos emprendedores que me dicen hoy ornella quisiera
00:27:50 OP entrar a vender mis productos circulares
Yo hago moda circular, entonces yo me emociono porque que me digan
00:28:03 OP que en Perú se está haciendo moda circulares algo para mí.
Y desde desde el concepto que tengo o no entonces, cuando le pregunto y
conversamos, me dicen, si yo lo que hago es reciclar y se quedan en
00:28:10 OP reciclar y no, y el gran mito hoy en día no es mito, sino el error.
Es entender la economía circular como solamente es reciclar cuando
sabemos que hay un amplio modelo en donde hay muchas más acciones
00:28:23 OP de por medio, empezando por el ecodiseño como tú lo dices, no entonces.
00:28:34 OP Partiendo de.
De que la economía circular es esa esa práctica si le quieres llamar de
hacer moda aplicada a la moda de hacer moda, pero cuidando los recursos
naturales, también está de crear ese producto, pero que claramente tengo
un ciclo largo de vida que está elaborado con insumos naturales que no
contaminen el medio ambiente, etcétera. ¿Pero también no perdamos de
00:28:35 OP foco este lado social que también debe ser presente, no? Entonces, en.
Yo creo que todavía a nivel de economía, yo creo que a nivel de
00:29:04 OP sostenibilidad aún estamos.
Andando, no en pañales, pero estamos andando. Y en economía circular
si estamos en pañales o sea todavía, yo creo que es un proceso largo, no
00:29:09 OP es sostenible de un día al otro, los negocios no se convierte en la otra.
Entonces, todavía hay un proceso y creo que el ecodiseño, tanto en la
moda como en cualquier industria, claramente es ese gran reto que tienen
00:29:21 OP todos los diseñadores..
Yo dicto en CEAM. Yo dicto clases a las carreras a gestión y a diseño de
moda. Siempre yo les digo a ellos, no le cuando ustedes lean economía
circular y si quieren encaminarse, la tendencia que en unos años va a ser
justamente eso, ustedes tienen que empezar a ya empezar aimaginarse que
tienen el reto de tener que crear colecciones, prendas, pero con eso que te
contaba al inicio, no. ¿Qué es lo que te dice la economía circular?
¿Entonces, cómo creo una colección de polos que luego de 3 años de
usarlo, el cliente pueda, no sé, pues de repente convertirlo en compost o
puede ser biodegradable o puedes regresármelo a la tienda y a la
00:29:34 OP tecnología necesaria para poder desintegrar y utilizarlo, no?
N
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
O
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
Pero no hay incentivo mayor que eso, se diría no como en Europa, pues
00:33:41 OP no, en donde ya las leyes etcétera existen, aquí en Perú, por ejemplo.
Cuando yo estaba en el año 2014 en Perú 2021 no. 2015 estaba en la
constructora la smb, por ejemplo, te estoy hablando fuera del lado, moda
00:33:54 OP ya, pero para dar un ejemplo, la smb.
00:34:11 OP Lo que hizo.
Fue decir OK. Todas las empresas que cotizan en la bolsa a partir del año
00:34:12 OP 2016 van a empezar a presentar su reporte sostenible.
¿Por ejemplo, OK? Ninguna de las que cotizan en bolsa en Perú se puede
quedar sin presentar, así como presentar su reporte anual económico
00:34:24 OP financiero.
También la sostenibilidad, ese tipo de prácticas, no en donde te presionan
para que realmente las podría también suceder y podría ayudar a impulsar
00:34:33 OP justamente y acelerar eso.
Ahora, cuando hablado con una textil era grande del Perú en algún
momento. Una de las respuestas que me dieron cuando les pregunté y
00:34:45 OP porque si dice.
00:34:54 OP Acelerar tu transformación hacia la sostenibilidad.
Dos gerentes de los 5 que con los que conversé me dijeron porque el
cliente extranjero así lo pides porque el cliente extranjero que es Hugo
00:34:57 OP Boss, estamos cerrando este año.
Estoy hablando de hace cuatro años, estamos cerrando este año y viene a
ser auditoría y lo que me dices, tú todavía no recircula el agua, tú todavía
no tienes eficiencia energética, pero si quieres continuar conmigo hacia
los próximos años trabajando, necesito que implementes este tipo de
00:35:11 OP prácticas.
00:35:28 OP ¿Tanto así?
Que para cuando el gerente me decía, ordena, yo no sabía qué hacer
00:35:29 OP porque nosotros en sostenibilidad no sabíamos nada.
Ahora, cómo diablos implementó un circuito cerrado, no de recirculación
de agua, tuvimos que contratar ingenieros, o sea, tuvimos que correr para
poder cumplir con esos estándares internacionales, no entonces exigencias
de afuera, check chévere, pero qué bacán. Sería que también fue la
00:35:36 OP linterna.
Si total, entonces te comento un poquito, también yo he conversado desde
la perspectiva de Gobierno, estamos en economía circular, básicamente
hablando de agua, de plástico, es donde estamos dando pasos más. No se
00:35:55 FE habla todavía de Del tema de la ropa,
¿Conociendo que la industria textil es sumamente importante para nuestra
economía, dentro De hecho, de la manufactura, es la tercera más
00:36:18 FE importante, entonces sí es un tema que deberían abarcar.
00:36:34 FE Respecto al tema de materiales, los insumos, hemos hablado de las telas.
Pero también hay los aditivos, llámese los botones, las piezas que que son
00:36:41 FE para decorar.
Existe nombre, es de tu conocimiento que existen productos de este tipo,
00:36:48 FE que sean reciclados o normalmente es.
Menor incluso vienen de China, etcétera, y no hay nada de temas, de
00:36:58 FE reciclaje o de que vengan de un rehusó. ¿Conoces algo del tema?
P
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
Q
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
R
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
S
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
¿Entonces, es por eso que nosotros creamos diversas para poder juntar en
un solo espacio diferentes propuestas, no? Entonces el tema de
00:46:35 OP accesibilidad también.
¿Ya quiero alimentarme más sano, a dónde voy? ¿Cuáles son las tiendas?
¿En mi barrio? ¿Existe alguna? ¿Me entiendes? ¿Entonces el tema de
00:46:45 OP costo? El tema de accesibilidad.
Y el hilo que te decía al inicio la falta todavía de difusión a gran escala,
no comunicación experimentos sociales en la calle, en los centros
comerciales no creo que son como algunos de los Santos retos que deben
haber para que pasemos del creer hay. Yo quisiera esto al a la acción, al
00:46:55 OP hacer.
¿Cuál seria el principal cambio que deberiamos realizar en el Perú para
00:47:34 FE pasar de una economía lineal a una economía circular?
00:47:43 OP ¿Cuál sería el gran cambio?
00:47:49 OP Es una pregunta bien difícil a.
00:47:55 OP Yo creo que.
00:47:57 OP Conociendo el nivel de sostenibilidad, conociendo que todavía.
Si tú vas, que me ha pasado, vas a hablar con la con los emprendedores de
Gamarra y les hablas de sostenibilidad. Ellos, los que te responden es a mí
00:48:04 OP no me importa la sostenibilidad. Yo tengo que hacer dinero.
00:48:15 OP Ahorita si le hablas según contexto de crisis económica.
00:48:20 OP Con mayor razón, o sea, te mira y dice.
00:48:22 OP Chau me habla de sostenible.
Quiero comer, quiero llevar comida a mi casa y es totalmente razonable,
00:48:23 OP yo quería Exteriores.
De repente estoy hablando tonteras, no sé, pero mi forma de pensar es que
hay que tomar un poco los ejemplos de cómo fue de repente la
responsabilidad social en sus inicios no entendí lo de los años 90 en el
Perú, un poco ir por el lado del negocio del emprendedor, o sea, encontrar
00:48:30 OP esa forma de decirle que a nivel económico.
Éste puede verse perjudicado si es que no incluye estrategias de
sostenibilidad. Te cuento un caso que no es de moda, ya me pasó en la
constructora cuando nosotros empezamos a trabajar toda la estrategia del
plan y demás, a mí me tocó lidiar con primero. El gerente central de
00:48:51 OP construcción, que manejaba las 15 obras a nivel nacional.
Y luego me tocó lidiar con cada gerente de operación de cada obra. ¿En
qué sentido? Cuando nosotros llegamos a presentarle la estrategia del plan
de sostenibilidad, y cuando le dijimos que tenía que separar un porcentaje
de su presupuesto de obra para orientarlo a las relaciones comunitarias y a
00:49:17 OP las prácticas medioambientales, dio el grito al cielo.
Seaford y te estoy hablando, que lo conversamos con un señor de más de
00:49:39 OP 60 años.
Que o sea sostenibilidad para él es como que bonito, nada más. Yo quiero
hacer negocios, quiero hacer dinero, ingeniero y un poco lo resalto porque
00:49:45 OP porque por el perfil mayormente también de los ingenieros no.
00:49:58 OP Seas tan como que.
La cosa es que nos costó un montón poder hacer eso, pero no lo logramos,
00:49:59 OP lo logramos a veces, cuando paralizaron la obra cuatro días.
T
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
U
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
TIME
SPEAKER TEXT
Appendix C: Interview 2
TIME
TEXT
SPEAKER
V
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
¿El plástico hay empresas como San Industrias San Miguel que recepción a
las botellas de plástico, están, las limpian, las convierte nuevamente en PET
00:01:31 KR y hacen botellas nuevamente plásticas, no?
Este inclusive dentro de la normativa ambiental tenemos este de gestión de
residuos, acuerdos de producción más limpia a PL. Se llama estos papeles
00:01:47 KR son los que las empresas se muchas empresas por un tema propio.
El gobierno se está comprometiendo a cambiar su tipo de economía de
economía lineal, la economía circular. Ahorita por ejemplo, existe una hoja
de ruta de economía circular para la agricultura; sin embargo, aun se está
trabajando en el tema de la moda o industria textil. No existe asignacion de
00:02:06 KR recursos economicos en esa industria todavia.
Este y acá en el país, quienes están apoyando mucho el tema de impulsar el
tema de la economía, de cambiar de una economía lineal a una economía
00:02:37 KR circular, es la Unión Europea.
00:02:49 KR Tenemos este apoyo de ellos.
¿Coméntame un poquito más porque sí, sé que hay un proyecto que se
inició el año pasado, el ante año pasado con los distritos me parece de
00:02:53 FE1 San Juan y de la victoria, verdad?
00:03:05 KR De que sobre qué es sobre economía circular sí.
Y en la industria de la moda me parece que es o en la industria textil
00:03:07 FE1 específicamente.
00:03:14 KR Ya de repente son proyectos pilotos.
00:03:17 FE2 Hay algo porque pueden ser nuevos todavía así.
Entonces, mira, si así no, aquí que yo tengo conocimiento, ahorita que haya
00:03:20 KR un proyecto así.
00:03:29 KR No tengo conocimientos.
No hay ningún proyecto, digamos que está impulsando y me
mencionabas de que sí existen hojas de ruta para otros tipos de
Industria como la agricultura, sin embargo, no existe una hoja de ruta
00:03:31 FE2 para la industria textil aún.
Creo que no, no sé si es, creo que de verdad eso no lo tengo bien mapeado,
pero como yo estoy más en el sector agrario, sé que en el sector agrario si
00:03:46 KR existe la o un proyecto de hoja de ruta y ha sido apoyado con este.
00:04:05 KR Con la Unión Europea.
00:04:08 FE1 ¿Ese proyecto también está dentro de la Unión Europea? Ah, perfecto.
La Unión Europea acá y la Unión Europea está apoyando mucho al acá, el
Gobierno peruano para que impulsen el tema de economía circular
inclusive ya creo que vamos en el tercer o cuarto evento internacional de
00:04:12 KR economía Circular, pero en el tema de residuos sólidos.
00:04:32 FE2 De principalmente plástico.
Mira, por ejemplo, también hay un tema que hay, un, este hay un grupo acá
en Perú, pero es con alimentos sin base, llama SINBA (Sin Basura), puedes
00:04:36 KR entrar a su página, se llama sin basura.
Son unos jóvenes que recogen la comida de los restaurantes y esta es la
convierten en comida para hacerlos. ¿Prácticamente ellos están haciendo
00:04:53 KR economía circular, no?
00:05:05 KR Es un modelo de economía circular, pero en el tema de alimentos.
00:05:11 FE2 Hablando, en general, sí del tema de economía circular.
¿Cuáles crees que son las mejores? ¿Hasta ahora? ¿Los mayores logros
00:05:16 FE1 que se han logrado respecto a ese tema?
00:05:23 KR Acá en el país.
W
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
X
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Todo lo que pueda generar un impacto tiene que tener antes de empezar sus
operaciones, un instrumento de gestión ambiental y en ese instrumento pasa
a decir yo voy a construir o voy a hacer esta empresa, pero tiene que estar
00:08:59 KR dentro de los parámetros ambientales, nada puede pasar.
De lo que ya está establecido en la norma. ¿No, yo no puedo hacer tanto
ruido, no? Ahora el ruido no, por ejemplo, ya yo antes tú ponías una
00:09:16 KR empresa en cualquier lado y el ruido.
00:09:27 KR Está el motor.
No, ahora ya no, porque ya tenemos estándares de calidad para ruido dentro
00:09:28 KR de la zona urbana. ¿Entonces tú no puedes hacer ruido, no?
¿Cuándo te refieres a instrumentos de gestión integral te refieres? ¿Por
00:09:36 FE2 ejemplo, indicadores de luces?
De gestión ambiental de gestión, instrumentos de gestión ambiental son los
instrumentos que contienen todos los estándares de calidad ambiental y son
00:09:40 KR vendrían a ser empresas eco amigables.
00:09:54 KR ¿No, si tú cumples esos estándares, no?
Y esto es, me imagino, que estos instrumentos son diferentes a las
00:09:59 FE1 certificaciones tipo ISO 14001.
¿Ya el tema es certificaciones ISO 14001, es otra cosa, es eso? Están, no
son estándares, es saber para que tú abras una tienda, un ejemplo, no una,
00:10:07 KR yo voy a poner una tienda ya de de hablarlo.
¿Entonces, yo antes de hacer una tienda de abarrotes tengo que tener una
licencia municipal, no es cierto? ¿Mhm para mí ya es lo mismo ahora para
que todas empresa capaz de tener tu licencia municipal tienes que tener una
certificación ambiental porque es cuando tú presentas tu instrumento de
gestión ambiental, que es un expediente muy grande, puedes decir yo voy a
hacer esta actividad, pero yo no voy a generar ruido, yo no voy a
contaminar, por qué voy a hacer esto esto esto para evitar una
00:10:24 KR contaminación?
Entonces te otorga la certificación ambiental con eso recién puedes
empezar a construir y una vez que ya está construido, ya que tú empiezas a
operar y cumple todos los estándares que has dicho en tu instrumento, te
pueden hacer una auditoría y ahí viene el tema del ISO 14000, porque la
auditoría te lo hacen con los estándares y con los parámetros que establece
00:10:55 KR la norma ISO 14001.
Esta auditoría es aleatoria, no es cierto, o siempre que se crea una
00:11:20 FE1 nueva empresa.
00:11:23 KR ¿No es éste esa potestad de la empresa?
Pero lo de la certificación si es un mandato legal, es algo que el Estado en
00:11:29 KR el Perú telo, Tel o te lo exige.
Y esto se hace a través de empresas como homologado horas OA través
00:11:38 FE1 quienes.
¿No son consultoras las empresas que hacen estas estos instrumentos son
consultoras ambientales inscritas en cada Ministerio o en nosotros? Acá en
el país tenemos 111, entidad muy grande que se llama Sena, Servicio
Nacional de certificaciones ambientales. ¿Entonces ellos son los que los
00:11:43 KR que dirigen todo está poli?
00:12:07 KR Cano, a través del Ministerio del Ambiente.
00:12:10 FE2 Ah perfecto.
Genial y existen sanciones si es que, por ejemplo, aquellas empresas que ya
00:12:14 FE2 existen.
00:12:20 FE1 ¿Qué tipo de sanciones se dan?
Y
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Z
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
AA
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
CC
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
No, porque no está dentro de las competencias entonces para que eso se
00:26:04 KR haga.
00:26:10 KR Formaría parte de un de una política y dentro de la política en el país, no.
00:26:16 KR Llegas a ese punto.
Porque, por ejemplo, en el tema de la comida, si hay un tema que si tú dices
00:26:19 FE2 es que eres saludable, bajo.
¿Contiene tal cosa? Sí, sí, porque ya hay, hay. Hay una normativa que te
habla de eso, lo que lo acá, lo que se puede hacer y cuando no, es si el
ciudadano se da cuenta que no es así. ¿Puedes ir de copi y denunciarlos, por
00:26:24 KR qué haces una publicidad engañosa?
00:26:49 KR Pero no por un tema ambiental, no por un tema ambiental, sino por favor.
Y hay algún. Ay, no sé si es que también esto. Quizá por ahí que hayas
escuchado. ¿Existe alguna forma de hacer la trazabilidad del origen de
00:26:54 FE1 las materias? Por ejemplo, he dentro, no sé, del imaginemos del.
¿la procedencia o el proceso que ha tenido que sea responsable? ¿Hay
00:27:09 FE1 alguna forma de hacer esa trazabilidad?
Yo no sé si en en el tema de Ed. De confección de pero como te digo en el
tema industrial, con con esto de las botellas, si tienes cómo hacer la
trazabilidad, porque industrial, yo he ido a la fábrica de Industrias San
Miguel y Ves el plástico, las botellas ahí, enteras, como las lavan, como las
pica tal cómo va todo hasta que sale con la nuevamente una botella que
00:27:19 KR tiene.
00:27:45 FE2 Claro, todo puede ser todo el proceso.
¿El proceso, como por ejemplo tenemos la botella de San Luis, no sé si tú
00:27:49 KR has estado hasta el año pasado, me imagino a cabo no?
00:27:55 FE2 Este ha sido el año pasado.
00:27:57 KR Ya en la botella de San Luis, Tú le agarraba si era sumamente delgada, sí.
00:28:03 KR Ya es este un material 100% reciclable.
¿Una consulta, cuánto, cuánto? ¿Si tendremos que ponerle del 1 al 10?
En cuanto en que camino estamos para el tema de economía circular
00:28:06 FE1 respecto al plástico, que es 1 de los temas más.
00:28:18 KR Al plástico, mira, estaremos bien, 1%.
00:28:23 FE2 ¿Ah, vamos todavía?
00:28:25 KR Bajo, mira en el tema reciclaje estamos, creo que hay como país en un 3%.
00:28:31 KR ¿Mhm de lo producido, no?
00:28:35 KR ¿Y solamente papel bote y lo más comerciable no?
Y una consulta, cómo está estructurado el tema de la economía circular
o todo el tema del reciclaje está estructurado a nivel de
municipalidades, principalmente son las fiscalizadoras a nivel de
00:28:41 FE1 Estado.
No. A ver, yo te comento cómo. Cómo funciona el tú sabes que el
00:28:56 KR Gobierno, nosotros tenemos un Gobierno central.
Y cuando tú viajas a provincia tienes un Gobierno regional, pero el
Gobierno central es el Presidente con sus ministros. No creo que tenemos
00:29:03 KR 13 ministerios, agricultura, energía y minas, industria, educación, mujer.
Pero los que tienen producción, por ejemplo, energía y minas, industria,
este agricultura, transporte, transporte, porque porque ellos hacen
00:29:24 KR carreteras, eso yaks después que no has estado agricultura.
Creo que ya dije, pero son 6 o 7 ministerios que te podrían decir que tienen
producción, comercio exterior y turismo también está dentro de los que
00:29:41 KR pero entonces estos ministerios tienen sus normas ambientales.
00:29:56 KR Y todos los todos.
DD
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Todos sus los que pertenecen a las empresas, ellos los van a supervisar y si
no lo puede supervisar ellos, nos supervise lo efa el Organismo Nacional de
00:29:58 KR Fiscalización Ambiental.
Ah perfecto, entonces digamos que a nivel de municipalidades no hay
00:30:12 FE2 ninguna.
Parecido no es el Gobierno central, la municipalidad se encargan de ver la
00:30:17 KR licencia de funcionamiento y el ornato de la ciudad, pero es si en la.
¿En las empresas no tienen un, si reciben una denuncia ambiental, no van a
pasar al sector, no? Sí, sí van y ven que Coca Cola sin pactando una fábrica
o bueno a ver como te explico, a ver. ¿Te acuerdas que en la en la Avenida
00:30:28 KR Venezuela había 1 de pinturas?
00:30:50 FE2 Sí, claro, la que se te amo.
Ya entonces Ponte ya ahí, si esa cuenta porque hubiera estado funcionando,
que sacaba humo, entonces los vecinos pueden denunciar al municipio,
pero el municipio tendría, él no puede intervenir, tendría que ir a industria a
00:30:53 KR mandar una carta al sector industria y decirles, tenemos esta contaminación.
El sector viene y hace la supervisión y ver si realmente, cómo está
00:31:12 KR impactando esa esa fábrica al entorno.
Ah perfecto, entonces más que todas las municipalidades son como
00:31:21 FE2 mediador.
00:31:25 KR Claro, sí, sí, sí, estamos para eso.
00:31:28 KR Son los sectores, no los sectores, los que los que ven.
Me comentaste que si el incinera miento de prendas está prohibido o de
00:31:39 FE1 cualquier desecho en general.
00:31:47 KR Sí, sí, sí, sí, lo que.
00:31:51 KR Tú, valoriza, pero hay, hay un.
Hay un proceso que le llaman valorización a través de una pirólisis, ador,
que es otra, es como una crema, pero de otra forma, pero no puedes quemar
00:31:55 KR así nomás, no, que yo voy y prendo fuego, no, no.
00:32:10 KR Porque ahí si generas un impacto al medio ambiente, no directo, no.
Pero si me dices que hay una, una variación de esa incineración que
00:32:15 FE2 digamos en es menos dañina las.
00:32:21 KR ¿Lo puedes hacer a través de máquinas, no?
#¡VALOR! A personas.
00:32:32 KR Pero en el tema de la moda no sé cómo están, están.
Yo creo que 1 de los puntos de con EA que en el tema de moda es reutilizar
00:32:36 KR las prendas, no lo uso de prendas. El primer paso ya.
00:32:45 FE2 Sí, sí, yo creo.
Cual es el paso más simple para para nosotros que todavía no tenemos
00:32:46 FE1 la tecnología.
00:32:50 KR De hecho, ya hice.
¿Las que son biodegradables existen en el mundo que estas están
utilizando, no, la mayoría es algo que recién están también inventando,
00:32:51 FE1 no?
00:33:01 KR Claro, las biodegradables.
00:33:01 FE1 ¿Lo que hice?
00:33:03 KR ¿Bueno, también acá es traerla porque es la maquinaria y todo, no?
Es la tecnología que me imagino no tenemos y como la mayoría son mi PC
es mucho más complicado si si tuviéramos nosotros. Hoy por hoy la
00:33:07 FE2 capacidad de bueno, si lleváramos un proceso de reciclaje en el en el Perú.
EE
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
En esto yo que te he explicado, por ejemplo, para sí, yo quiero una blusa,
imaginemos no una blusa hecha de algodón y poliéster y que tiene aditivos
00:33:23 FE2 como botones, etcétera.
¿Para poder reciclar esa ropa para que la materia prima vuelva a
pasar por todo el proceso necesita ser separada bastante mensualidad,
no? Los botones el algodón del POLIÉSTER, etcétera. ¿Tú crees que la
00:33:34 FE1 industria sea?
Las las textile son los confeccionistas están preparados para realizar
00:33:54 FE1 ese gasto. ¿Estarían dispuestos ello?
No, porque 1 también acá en el Perú. Recuerda que acá las tienen y compra
00:34:02 KR mucho algodón porque nuestra materia prima es muy barata.
00:34:11 KR ¿Es algo entonces más caro? ¿Saldría hacer ese proceso, no?
00:34:17 FE2 No, que que.
¿Hacer claro esto puede ser en países europeos, que claro que de repente su
00:34:18 KR costo es un poco más mayor, no? Pero acá no, no tienes ese.
00:34:28 KR ¿Y es o la materia prima para?
¿Para nosotros es más barato comprar una prenda nueva que hacerse
00:34:30 FE1 reciclarla?
00:34:36 FE2 Etcétera, claro, claro.
00:34:38 KR Por eso es que acá tampoco no funciona mucho el tema de póntelo.
¿Lo este, tú no vas a vender lo que vendes y normalmente se está vendiendo
ropa de segunda, pero extranjera, tú no encuentras ropa peruana
00:34:43 KR vendiéndose de segunda, no?
¿1, que dura un montón el algodón peruano, pues ya no sea antiguamente
creo que alaban como trapeador, pero bueno, ya no lo hacen, no, pero hay
que porque ya veo cuando um Trapeador no, pero ahora no, no, no, no se
00:34:56 KR ve, no?
00:35:14 FE1 Y una pregunta al Perú se trae ropa de segunda mano.
Porque yo recuerdo lo que yo recuerdo es que hay el mercado, por ejemplo,
00:35:19 FE2 de.
00:35:24 KR Virgin Ass.
¿Si te acuerdas que traba ropa de China, pero creo que eso ya lo han
00:35:27 KR regulado la demanda. No sé cómo está ese tema, no?
Hola, manejado, pero también entra ropa como de donación, le llaman
la ropa de la nación, que también entra, digamos, como una especie de
00:35:34 FE1 de.
Creo que ya porque fue en la época de Fujimori que el que donaba en
00:35:43 KR Japón.
00:35:50 FE2 Sí, sí.
00:35:50 FE2 Ya no, ya sé está más regulado como.
00:35:51 KR Porque si eso ya no.
¿Así porque los niños realmente hacen? ¿Llegamos las los países
desarrollados para tratar de ser circulares de alguna forma es realizar
la donación y lo envían, digamos que su desecho lo envían a países en
desarrollo para que a ellos vean que tienen que hacer con ellos ya mi
00:35:52 FE1 país está libre, no?
Claro, es lo que mira Averiguaste solo destaca más el desierto de Atacama,
00:36:11 KR Chile.
00:36:16 KR Que me he quedado.
Impactada es no sé que han querido hacer ahí o lo quieren reciclar, quieren
00:36:17 KR entrar al tema económico.
FF
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
GG
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
HH
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
II
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
Figure D: Definitions of CE
JJ
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
ff
Figure E : Fashion sector value chain (Jacometti, 2019) (Niinimäki et al., 2020)
KK
From a linear to a circular economy: Peruvian case
LL