0 Q

-----------------------------------
Coves and cliffs
Disc:over a c:hanging c:oastal landsc:ape in South Devon

Explore this dramatic coastline of steep

cliffs and hidden coves.

It's a wonderful place to walk and uncover

the stories of an ever-changing landscape.
You can also enjoy some stunning views
and a ride on a restored cliff railway.

Discover evidence of dramatic earth

movements and the powerful forces of
nature.

Find out why a red cliff collapsed into the

sea while white cliffs were blasted apart View across to Babbacombe harbour
© Pat Wi lson
with dynamite. Compare flaky black rocks
with pink 'Devon marble'.

See where rocks were taken away by day

and drugs were brought in by dead of
night. Learn of genteel Victorians with
their bathing machines and the modern
adventure sport of coasteering.

This walk explores the tremendous

diversity of rocks found along this stretch
of coast.

Discover how their different properties

have created the landforms that you
can see and have influenced human
Rocky outcrop at Babbacombe harbour activities.
© Nicki Wilson

There are also some thought-provoking questions about human intervention along the
coastline.

Note: Prolongued wet weather causes cliff instability. Please check in advance
for any footpath closures or diversions.

-----------------------------------
't
-----------------------------------
Route overview

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11.=~ -*MODEL VILLAGE

·combe Beac

LIFF RAI WAY

ckball

~~ ~~~~~-±~
, ~~~

p~ ,
Long Quarr:

ORQ A1
ate Beach

evil's Point
stey's Cove

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----------------------------------- 5
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Practical information

Location Babbacombe, Devon, Southwest England

Getting there Train - Nearest station Torquay (3 miles); served by direct services
from London.

Car - 2 miles from the centre of Torquay off the A379 Babbacombe
Road. Follow the brown signs to Kents Cavern entrance on the right.
DO NOT TURN IN but park on the left side of the road.

To reach the start of the walk continue on foot for 100 metres until
you see a signed footpath to Anstey's Cove. Follow it into the middle
of the recreation ground.

Bus - The start point can be reached by bus from Torquay or

Teignmouth on Stagecoach routes 22 or 32. Alight on Babbacombe
Road at the Palace Hotel and walk about 300 metres down Anstey's
Cove Road to the car park. To start the walk, cross the car park into
the middle of the recreation ground.

Start point Middle of recreation ground beyond Anstey's Cove car park, TQ1 2JE

Finish point Babbacombe Cricket Club, Walls Hill Road, TQ1 3LZ

Onward From the finish, it is just over half a mile back to !Isham Road or the
journey bus stops

Distance 4 ½ miles

Heed a shoret For a shorter route, you can end at the Babbacombe Cliff Railway
route? (Stop 16)

Level Challenging - the paths and lanes are very steep in places

-----------------------------------
6
-----------------------------------
Conditions The steep paths and lanes can be slippery in wet or icy weather.
Strong boots or shoes are recommended, as is weatherproof
clothing. You may like to take a walking stick.

Suitable for Dogs - though they are only allowed on the beaches at particular
times of year (check notices)

Refreshments -Anstey's Cove Cafe - drinks and snacks (Stops 3-5)

- Cary Arms, Babbacombe Beach - boutique pub (Stop 9, 10)
- Babbacombe Beach Cafe - drinks and ice creams (Stop 10)
- Oddicombe Beach Cafe - wide range of drinks and snack food
{Stop 14, 15)
- Cliff Railway Cafe, Babbacombe Downs Road (Between Stops 16
and 17)
- Babbacombe Downs - various pubs, restaurants and cafes
(between Stops 16 and 17)

Toilets Seasonal public toilets available at:

- Anstey's Cove (only available when the cafe is open)
- Babbacombe Beach (after Stop 10)
- Oddicombe Beach (Stop 14, 15)
- Babbacombe Downs (between Stops 17 and 18, open Easter-Oct)

Things to do The Babbacombe Cliff Railway is open throughout the summer

and during winter weekends. Check opening times before you go
(Tel: 01803 328750)

Kayaks can be hired from Babbacombe Beach Cafe while Oddicombe

Beach offers sail and paddle boats for hire

Look out for grey seals at Babbacombe Beach!

Tourist English Riviera Tourism Company, 5 Vaughan Parade, Torquay

information Tel: 0844 474 2233 www.englishriviera.co.uk

----------------------------------- 7
-----------------------------------
1. Welcome to Babbacombe
Recreation ground off Ilsham Road
This short stretch of coastline has been
designated as a Global Geopark recognised by
UNESCO.

On this walk, you'll find out about the

tremendous diversity in the geology that has
led to this status. You'll learn how to identify
different types of rocks and learn about the
processes that formed the landscape that you
see.

You'll also discover how humans have used

and exploited the particular characteristics of
this section of coast for economic activity and The view over Black Head and Anstey's Cove
for leisure purposes. © Pat Wilson

You are also going to find out about the

processes that continue to shape this
landscape and ponder some questions
about how we respond to them.

This walk was created by Pat Wilson.

Pat: "I moved to South Devon a few years ago

from the Home Counties and love exploring
the coastline. I'm a physical geographer so
I'm particularly interested in the geological
formations and coastal processes along this
fascinating stretch of coastline. I hope to
share some of these with you on this walk."
Rocky outcrop at Babbacombe Harbour
© Pat Wilson

Directions 1
From t he m iddle of t he recreati on ground walk to t he Anstey's Cove car par k.

-----------------------------------
10
-----------------------------------
Z. A valley without a river
Car Park, Anstey's Cove Road
Standing with the car park behind you, look across
the field. This is the !Isham Valley. As you walked
across it you would have noticed it has a wide, flat
floor but quite steep, almost cliff-like valley sides.
If you look to both left and right there are wooded
slopes with only one or two houses on this steep
land.

This valley was formed by movements of the

earth which brought a rock called limestone to the
surface. The valley has been formed along a crack !Isham Valley

in the rock, known as a fault line. © Pat Wilson

Limestone is permeable, which means that water

can pass through cracks or joints within the rock.
That's why there is no large stream or river in
the valley - which you might think there should
be given the size of the valley. Instead there is a
network of underground rivers and caves.

Nearby is Kent's Cavern, one of the most famous

limestone cave systems in Europe. It is well worth a
visit as one of the things you can see there are the
remains of these underground rivers.

As you cross the car park look out for the massive
whitish cliffs through the trees in front of you - they
Glimpse of the exposed limestone in Redgate Bay are also made of limestone which underlies this
© Pat Wilson valley.

Directions 2
Leave the car park and cross the lane passing from left to right. Go down the lane that
leads down the slope straight ahead. It is very steep and there are steps if you find these
easier for the descent. At the bottom turn right, go past the small cafe to the end of the
concrete promenade. Go down the steps onto the pebbled beach; if the tide is too high then
remain at the top of the steps.

Note: It is very steep down to and up from Anstey's Cove. If you are not able to manage,
stay by the car park for Stops 3, 4 and 5 then fol low Directions 5.

----------------------------------- 11
-----------------------------------
3. Black and white
Steps at corner of Anstey's Cove beyond the cafi
This beach is called Anstey's Cove. Look down at
what's underneath your feet. You should notice
there are two distinct sorts of pebbles: dark
greenish/black ones and white/pinky ones. Pick up
one of each, roughly of the same size. You should
immediately notice that the darker pebble is
heavier than the lighter pebble.

First let's look closely at the darker pebble. It's

heavier than the lighter one because it contains
iron. You should also be able to see sparkly crystals.
This is dolerite, a rock which formed when hot liquid
(known as magma) from inside the earth made its
way to the earth's crust where it cooled down into
solid rock. Later in the walk we shall be able to see The varied pebbles found at Anstey's Cove
another example of this process happening. © Jenny Lunn

Now look at the lighter pebble. You might be able to see some small circles that are a similar size
to a coin. These are the fossilised remains of a coral reef. This rock is Devonian limestone, which
was formed when this area was underneath a warm tropical sea about 380 million years ago.

Now go over to the base of the cliff and look more

closely at the rocks there. They are quite different
to the two types of pebbles that we have just looked
at. They are black, in thin layers and quite crumbly.
You can see how the sea has been able to wear them
away and create the small beach you are standing
on. These are black shales, which were formed in
deep ocean basins.

These three rock types - dolerite, Devonian

limestone and black shales - are responsible for
shaping not only Anstey's Cove but the coastline
Black shales at Anstey's Cove
that we shall see throughout our walk.
© Jenny Lunn

Directions 3
Go back up the steps onto the promenade. Stop near the cafe.

-----------------------------------
1Z
- - - - - - - -I- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
't. Smuggling, swimming and a cup of tea
Anstey's Cove promenade
In the late eighteenth century, a
man called Donn surveyed this
area.

The map that he produced in 1795

showed 'Anjus Cove' with nearby
Torquay as an insignificant village.

A map published just over 30

years later in 1827 shows this
place as 'Anstie Cove'.

On both maps it is a remote cove

so was ideal for smuggling, which
Anstey's Cove with cafe and bathing machines (1896)
was rampant at the time. Copyright The Francis Frith Collection ® www.francisfrith.com

But all this changed in the Victorian era and the emergence of seaside resorts such as Torquay.
This cove became one of the attractions that people could come to visit.

In the 1890s, the entrepreneurial Thomas family set up a tea shop on the beach. Ladies could get
away from crowded Torquay and take their carriage here. They could think they were in the wilds
but still get a cup of tea! There was a notice at the top of the hill:

Picnics supplied with hot water and tea

At a nice little house down by the sea
Fresh crabs and lobsters every day
Salmon, peel sometime red mullet and grey
The neatest of pleasure boats to let out on hire
Fishing tackle as good as you can desire
Bathing machines for ladies are kept
With games and towels all quite correct
Thomas is the man that supplies everything
And also teaches young men to swim

There is an old photograph of Thomas standing at

The sign above Anstey's Cove (1896)
Copyright The Francis Frith Collection ®
www.francisfrith.com
the door of his cafe (see next page) and it shows
the poem above in Latin - just for the amusement
of his rich clientele.
-----------------------------------
In 1929 Jonathan Thomas and the local landowner
sold the Cove to the Council for £7,000. The cove

r:,.~-,
is still a popular stop to visit but the activities have
changed. There's still a cafe but bathing machines
have been replaced by kayak hire!

And if you thought smuggling was a thing of the

past, think again. Here in Anstey's Cove in October
1988 sixty policemen and customs officers swooped
II ----
~

on smugglers who had landed a cool five million

pounds worth of cannabis here at the dead of night! -

Mr Thomas outside his cafe in Anstey's Cove,

with the poem in Latin above the door
© Torquay Museum

A quiet Anstey's Cove today

© Jenny Lunn

Directions 4
Continue along the promenade to the far end where there are some metal railings. Stop
here and look round the corner to Redgate Beach.

-----------------------------------
1':t
 Route overview

*MODEL VILLAGE

icombe Bead

LIFF RAil WAY

lackball
!"».ocks

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Long Quar,

ORQ A~
gate Beach

Devil's Point
l':aie:."til.Anstet s Cove

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Detail of the first part of the route
Gas:king'1 Rock
St o ... , • r--
Ftegstaff Point

WIiis Hill

Long Quarry Point

Quarry

Redgate Beach
•
~ ~1 Devil's Point
t ( • \.OVO

I
•

a,,t
Schoot 1m~ Ordnance
- ~ Survey
1 L k:en!Wld P11 ~
 Detail of the second part of the route

Model Giant Rock

Village

'Chureh

Oddicombe Beach

Blackball Roc::b

Tide Rock

Rad Rodes
M~ Pit p .
Withy otnt
Bath, ng Cove

I -llr!j?.! Ordnance
~ Survey
Ucensed P11rtner

:topping points

9. Old lampost by the Cary Arms, t't. Oddicombe Beach, looking at cliff fall
Babbacombe Beach
15. Oddicombe Beach, looking at Petit Tor Point
lO. End of harbour wall, Babbacombe Beach
16. Babbacombe Cliff Railway, lower station
L1. Wooden walkway over Half Tide Rock
17. Viewing platform, Babbacombe Downs
 Fresh air has come so much into fashion now that ... this more bracing side,
though two or three miles from any railway station, ... is quickly developirig
(Black's Guide to Devonshire 1898)

Babbacom be 's face and edge [is) tastefully laid out with walks and gardens ...
[its viewjfine r than from any point of Torquay . .. the limestone and marble
cliffs give place to the glowing red sandstone conlinued on to Dawlish and
reflected from the other side ofthe Exe estuary (ibid.)

Babbacom be has its own facilities for concerts, sport and shopping, and in
sultry weather it offers an agreeable change from the more southerly parts of
Torquay (Ward Lock Guide Torquay & South Devon 1924).

2. 7 A major loss has been the large mid-Victorian villa The Vine whose extensive
gardens linked the Downs with the shore, with the villa promine ntly located between
them. After its demolition the Babbacom be Theatre was built in the 1950s in the
upper part of the fonner grounds.

3 CHARACTER AREAS

3.1 The three separate parts of the conservat ion area are defin ed by their diffe1i ng
topographical situation, all preserve a sense of discrete identity; they are shown on
Appraisal Ma p One and can be summaris ed as follows:

3.2 (1) The Downs

A large ly uniform 19 century fronlage overlooks the Downs and the coastline. The
th

buildings are mainly domestic in scale and well-proportioned, unifonnly finished in

smooth render with some classical ornament. Pitched roofs alternate with flat roofs
a nd parape ts. The form of development varies from short terraces to detached villas,
now mostly hotels, in their own grounds. This part of the conservati on area extends
eastwards in a narrow strip along the southern edge of the plateau to include some
scattered mid-20 century development along Walls HiU Road.
th

3.3 (2) Beach Road and The Harbour

This area consists of the early hamlet a nd the north-faci ng slopes in the small hollow
above the harbour and its stone je tty. Buildings are infonnaUy grouped on the hillside
above and include several picturesqu e cottages, a villa, and the Cary Anns Hotel on
the seafront against a wooded backdrop. The curve of the coastline ensures Lhat this
small settleme nt is clearly visible as part of the broader sweep of the coastline.

3.4 (3) The Cliff Paths and Railway

Early photograp hs indicate that this part of the conservation area was extens ively
planned and laid out in the mid-late 19 century as a pleasure ground with a network
th

of paths descendin g the cliffs and with far fewer mature trees than al present. The
introduc tion of the Cliff Railway in 1926 led to a cha nge of emphasis and the paths
are now relatively little used as a route to the beach. The landscape has since largely
naturalise d with no buildings other than the two station buildings.
 Abbey
2.2 Babbac ombe enters the historic al record c.1200 as Babbecumbe in the Torre
: the vaJley of a man
CartuJary; the place name fonn deriving from a personal name
ombe
called Babba. The form Babbec ombe in 1467 become s recognisably Bahbac
Early Chance ry Proceed ings as a result
between 1504-1 5 when it is reconJed in Lhe
at £12
of some lawsuit. In 1535 Lhe tithe return gives the annual value of the fishery
20 ships
(Brixham and Kingswe ar togethe r were only worth £17). In 1635 among the
and 800 crew sailing from the Torbay ports were sailors from Babbac ombe.
11 pattern of
2.3 The present urban topography reflects an almost entirely l 9 ' century
for Lhe Carys, who had been manorial
development. An estate map compiled in 1775
Babbaco mbe Downs
overlords since 1595, shows the whole area of what is now
medieva l
consisti ng mainly of manorial common, a few fields of early e nclosure or
Road (the ancient coastal route
bounda ries soulh of what is now Babbac ombe Downs
building s
north), and the tiny hamlet of Babbac ombe itself clustere d anmnd tlie
between what is now occupied by the Glen and Cary Arms Hotels.

from
2.4 The isolation of the originaJ setting of the small fishing hamJet is still evident
where
the original Ordnance Survey l-mile-to-1-inc h map surveyed in 1809
noted but hardly anythin g else.
Babbac ombe Sands and Babbac ombe Bay are
ancl St
Babbac omhe Road was re-constructed as a turnpike between Ton:iuay
the
Marych urch in 1824-2 7. In the 1840s this scatter of smaJI collages facing
as 'a Swiss village ... and much
harbour was thought of as fashiona bly picturesque
appear to
illustra ted as one of the sights of Torbay'. Several of the earlier cottages
e, until
have been remodelled at about that time. Landing facilitie s were primitiv
breakwa ter was built
1889 boats still had to be hauled up onto the beach, the existing
i.n that year, a la rge proportion of the cost being met by the Carys.

s and
2.5 T his earlier settle me nt contras ts with that above on The Downs where building
mid-late
associa ted landsca ping were onJy laid out as a small cliff-top resort in the
of this fom1er manoria l common which
19 century. The Downs the mselves were part
th

a bandsta nd provide d.
was laid to grass and prome nades with railings, shelters and
a number
While Ton:iuay proper was grew most rapidly be tween 1840 a nd 1870, ancl th
St. Marych urc h in the early-m id 19
of villas were built to the south and west of
ment is
century, largely contem porary with those in Ton:iuay, Babbacombe's develop
mbe
slighlty later and took slightl y longer. The terraces of the 'front' on Babbaco
Between 1860 w1d 1880 a number of
Downs Road are mid-century developme nts.
Princes
streets of plain terraces were built fronting or adjoining Babbac ombe Road:
ted
Street, St. Anne's Road, and Vic toria Place. All now lie between the designa
conservation areas of Babbac ombe Downs and Cary Park.

Torquay,
By the end of the l 9 century Babbac ombe was an establis hed suburb of
th
2.6
to its separate identity , and
a lthough contemporary guide books continued lo refer
:
even comme nt upon the change of climate from the more southerly part of Torquay

The builder of Lale years has transformed a retired hamlel inlo a considerable
ll
and fashion able town (Thorough Guide Series Sowh Devon & South Cornwa
1889)

3
1 LOCATION AND E.5.SENTIAL CHARACTERISTICS

1.1 The Babbacombe Downs conservation area lies a little over 2km (1 ½ miles) northeast
of the centre of Torquay; situated on a relatively level plateau some 90 metres above
th
sea level, it is essentially a 19 century s uburb of St Marychurch. It lies close lo both
the St Maryclmrch and Cary Park conse rvation areas, with which it forms a distinct
group, although nowhere does it share a boundary with them being separc1ted by a
strip across Babbacornbe Road which varies betwee n 40-lOOm. The conservation area
marks the edge of Torquay's 19 1, century developmen t nearest lo the northern
1

coastline, and consists of detached villas, now mostly hotels, and several short
terraces.

1.2 Where undeveloped the conservation area is mainly open in character and includes
The Downs, an attractive grassed area from whjch there are extens ive coastal views;
between them and the shoreline, lie tree-clad cliffs lo the northeast, with the Cliff
Railway, opened in 1926 providing access lo Oddicombe beach. The easte rn part of
the conservation area is a sleep combe with vehicular access via Beach Road to what
th
was formerly a muc h older fishing hamlet, with a scattering of early-mid 19 century
villas, one or two of which have modest collage ornee embellishme nts. The whole area
is much frequented by holiday visitors, especially during the summer months.

th
1.3 There are major 19 century embe llishme nts lo the natural landscape. The Downs
were created as an important open space for public enjoyment, as were the many
infom1a l paths that in places climb the s teep slopes by means of steps - in some cases
running into hundreds - easing their way through the limestone crags. Conte mporary
guidebooks give an impression of how Babbacombe and its particular allrc1ctions
developed, especially between the nud-l9'h and early-20'h century when most holiday
destinations were still within the United Kingdom. Just prior to the second world war
Babbacombe Downs was still being referred to as 'a breezy plateau' .

2 IDSTORIC ENVIRONMENT, ORIGINS AND DEVEWPMENT

2. 1 Historically the land area comprising Babbacombe Downs belonged to both the
parish and manor of St Marychurch. There has been human activity and settlement in
the St. Marychurch area since prehistoric times. Within the parish and adjoining the
southern boundary of the conservation area lies the prehjstoric field system of Walls
Hills; the third or southernmos t ' hilJ' contains a remarkably well preserved complex
of six complete fields as well as parts of others and has been scheduled as an Ancient
Monument. The series of individual fields and their boundary banks are survivals of
what was once a very much larger field system dating from the Late Bronze- and
Early Iron Ages c.1200-800 BC. The urban centre of St Marychurch has its origins in
the Saxon settlement from the 8'h century onwards; the pre-Conquest manorial
h
stnacture, recorded in Domesday, was probably established here by the t0• century.
In 1086 the Domesday Book recorded two manors at St Marychurch , Babbacombe
Downs is entirely contained in that of SCJE MARJJE cerce which can be identifieed as
St Marychurch proper.

1
 and what appears to be at least one specimen of the locally found Lucombe Oak
(LUCOMBEANA). The well-wooded slopes interspersed with bare rock-faces are now a
special feature of this section of coastline. The buildings rising above the harbour are
set against this backdrop which is dominant landscape feature.

6 THE SE'ITING AND FEATIJRFS OF SPECIAL IMPORTANCE

6.1 The 1911, century ability to tame seemingly impossible and 'sublime' landscapes for
public recreation and enjoyment is well represented here by the considerable
network of paths and roadways which cut across the contour lines in a sequence of
curves and hairpin bends. Many of the paths have steps, some with railings. From
much of the more elevated part of the conservation area there are dramatic outward
views, both out to sea, and along the coastline. Those qualiti.es that give the
conservation area its special c haracter may be summarised here, and indications
given of where there is the potential for improvement:

❖ the coastal hamlet and its setting with early-mid I 9

th
century alterations and
additions to earlier buildings;

❖ the wide extent and variety of open space between the built-up edge of Babbacombe
and the coastline;

❖ the Downs development facing the sea from the mid-19th century onwards, much of
which remains significantly unaltered, including overall frontage detail, spatial
arrangement, roof profiles, stacks and original pots;

❖ the historic house of 1878 designed by WE Nesfield;.

❖ the extent of the remaining 19th-century street layout, including the historic quality of
the open spaces, the quayside and pier, the walkways and their historic surfaces, the
street furniture including lamps, seals, railings, shelters el al;

❖ the range of historic frontage and layout fonns which employ an intricacy of detail,
and a range of materials including decorative stucco cornices and moulding; and the
often imaginative use of building materials in combinations which characterises
·h
much of the best development that took place between the early lo late 19' century;

❖ the survival of a high proportion of period detail: original sash windows with glazing
bars, panelled doors, and shutters; cast-iron features: railings and balustrading; and
a smaller proportion of original ground-floor frontage detail including window
reveals;

❖ the extensive network of cliff footpaths and steps amidst the remnants of a mid-l9'h
century planned landscape setting; and the survival of boundary walls using local
limestone rubble;

❖ extensive tree cover and tree groups which often act as an important foil to buildings,
especially in the Beach Road area.

9
 hanging at NesfieJd's Babbacombe Cliff House near the top of Beach Road is
probably Comish. The more widespread use of plain tiles on buildings close to tbe
harbour, not a traditional feature in tbe locality, may indicate that these were
originally shipped in.

4.3.3 Of particular merit, though afforded little statutory protection, is tbe wealth of period
detail. Although partly compromised by later alterations and additions, especially at
ground floor level, there are several good decorative examples of stucco and render
including brackets, cornices, eaves and architrave detailing. Cb.imney stacks are
topped witb mainly cream terracotta chimney pots, although many have been
removed. There are also doors and windows with original panels and glazing bars,
and balconies with cast iron balustrading, for example 37-43 Bahbacomhe Downs
Road. Such detail, where it occurs, adds much to the overall character and charm of
the conservation area.

4.4 CONDITION OF BUILDINGS

4.4.1 From superficial external observation, the majority of buildings in the conservation
area appear to be in a sound structural condition, the large majority being in private
domestic or commercial use. There are some indications of ageing roofs, including
flat roofs, which may soon require a complete overhaul. Other significant factors,
including the loss of architectural features and the mutilation of building fabric are
most likely to occur when the original historic detail is under-maintained or has been
neglected to the point where replacement is the easier option.

4.4.2 In tbe conservation area as a whole the potential for the removal and replacement of
historic detail, especially doors and windows, as well as some elevational detail and
boundary features is always high. This is particularly the case with unlisted buildings
where there is liule or no statutory protection - even some listed buildings have been
partially affected. A considerable proportion of period joinery and glazing to windows
and doors has already been lost lo quite unsuitable PVCu replacements that bear
little relation to the original form or fabric. Much remaining 19th century joinery,
except where it has obviously lacked maintenance, is still in good condition, and
normally capable of restoration, rather than replacement.

5 GREEN LANDSCAPE AND TREES

5.1 In Babbacombe Downs Road and St. Alban's Road mature trees are mainly found
within the grounds of the hotels and guest houses - tbe former villas - close to the
street frontage where tl1ey are an important feature. Most are deciduous, for example
lime (Tilia) sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus), beech (fagus sylvatica) • horse
chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) with a few Mediterranean pines, mainly J:orsicarl
(Pinus nigra var. maritima) or Monterey pine (Pinus radiata). •

5.2 Many trees cover the cliff-slopes stretching from the edge of the plateau of The
Downs lo the shore-line with a few glades. This was not always the case, as early 20th
century photographs show. Many also appear to have naturalised with similar
deciduous species to those above-mentioned. Also present are holm oak (quercus ilex)

8
 4.2 BUILDING FORM & ORNAMENT

4.2. 1 The handsome stucco or rendered frontages of both I.he terraces and viUas are a
feature of Bahbacom be Downs Road. The vilJas typicaUy have hipped slate roofs with
occasional projecting gables or bay windows incorpornted in the hips; even the
smaller terrnces a lso have hipped sla te roofs. Facing the Downs, several buiJdings of
three storeys or more have Oat roofs with parnpel.s. The position of chimney stacks in
relation to roof profiles varies conside rably with no set pattem. The majority are
rendered, and some are comiced. The moulded brickwork lo the tall stacks in
Nesfield's house of 1878 display especia lJy fine craft.smanship.

4.2.2 Openings can vary widely in detail although the surving sash windows are most
freque ntly of the local pattem of a single horizontal glazing bar. The corner detail of
buildings, especially at road junctions can be quite subtle with two main street-facing
frontages in evide nce, such as Oddicombe Hall Hotel which faces onto both St
Alhan's and Babbacornbe Downs Roads. Behind the e nlarged hotels of Bahbacombe
Downs Road which were once villas, rear service access is obtained from Bedford
Road, but poor quality rear extensions with unattractive elevations predominate a nd
do nothing to enhance the conservation area. This has been a llied to the
tra.11sfom1ation of the sea-facing frontages to a more contemporary appearance and to
link, or considerably , extend the previously de tached villas. The result has been to
spoiJ the ir proportions, consume the open space between them and end in frontages
which bear little or no rela tion to the original l 9'h century buildings as well as to
deny any sea views to the terrnces set behind in Bedford Street.

4.2.3 Additional ornament lo buildings extends in a few instances to the appearance of

rusticated quoins, string courses, bracketed eaves, glazed porches; and ironwork
detail on balconies and canopies. As in much of Torquay, the extensive boundary
walls, mostly of randomly coursed limestone make an enonuous contribution to the
historic built environment and are difficult to replace. Most are freestanding but
where there are sharp changes of level, they sometimes transform into retaining walls.
th
Other typical Torquay features are the 19 century cast iron street-light columns,
originally carrying gas lamps and normally e mbossed with local foundry names; and
the seats with a characteristic coiled snake design. An especially prominent feature
is the perimeter cast-iron posl and rail fence bordering the western edge of the Downs
for much of its lengll1.

4 .3 USE OF MATERIALS

4.3. I Stucco and white or colour-washed render over stone are the predominant building
materials. Bricks may have been used as the underlying material from the 1850s.
The use of exposed natural stone is limited, and where it occurs it is usually rough-
faced. Dressed stone, often of a different variety, is used for quoins and openings.
The local grey Devonfan limestone is most widely used as randomly coursed rubble
in boundary a nd retaining walls, with dressed exam1Jles used as steps to paths, and
as kerbstones and gulleys.

4.3.2 Welsh or Comish sla te quickly became Ute dominant roofing material of the 19th
century, although much bas now been replaced by artificial s ubstitutes. The slate-

7
Sot 37

are two short l 9'h century terraces facing each other: Nos 71-85 on the west side, and
Nos 76-84 on the east, the former coastguard station and cottages. Although both
have been much modified, they form a good group fronted by boundary walls of local
limestone rubble.

4. 1.5 At the junction of Babbacombe, Babbacomhe Downs and Walls Hill Roads are
situated an eclectic group of buildings of the 19 th and 20th century. Under the current
designation these lie just outside the conservation area boundary. St Anne's Church
Hall is in an earl y Arts-and-Crafts style, built of the local grey limestone with
Hamstone dressings beneath slate roofs; dating from 1883 it may be the earliest Arts-
and-Crafts building in Devon. A Heritage Lottery grant in 2004 will faci litate a
comprehens ive repair and restoration of this interesting and split level building. On
the south side of WaJls Hill Road Nos 1-6 with their steep cat-slide gabled frontages
are late examples c.1914 of the s tyle. Almost opposite the church hall 90-96
Babbacombe Road is an impressive three and four-storey complex with an ashlared
double front and many decorative features including prominent comices, window
reveals and a rounded comer entrance bay al the comer below a turreted roof. These
buildings make a positi ve contribution to the conservation area and should be
included within it, partic ularly the unlisted ones.

4.1.6 The only other listed buildings fom1 a scattered group within the com.be itself and
mainly date from the 1840s, although some are built on earlier foundations; they are
described in the list as ' part of a group of picturesque small houses buih on the steep
wooded cliffside above Babbacombe beach'. Although largely concealed behind
trees, the largest is The Grove (c.1849) which is built of stucco and slate to a
symmetric 3-bay plan in a cottage omee style with its two outer bays bowed and
gabled. The deep bracketed eaves, orname ntal barge-boards with apex pendants, and
centre window with arched heads are typical suc h omee features.

4.1.7 The others are closer to Beach Road and much more visible. Undercliff, (c.1840s)
and close to the sea, has an asymmetric L-shaped plan with canted bays and two
ground-floor French windows, all with hood-moulds . Apart from a glazed verandah on
posts across Lhe front there is no grand entrance elevation. Cllifaide Cottage Hotel
(also 1840s) is of stucco and slate with rusticated quoins. The front elevation has two
gables and a fi rst floor timber verandah, with a Tudor-arched arcade. Windows are
mainly timber casements, although some 20th century metal windows have been
added. Nearby is Rose Cottage (agai n 1840s) which plastered with a tliatched roof,
hipped at both ends and pierced by s tacks with rendered shafts . There is little detail
other than a timber front verandah with slated roof; the two-light casements have
recently installed diamond glazing bars.

4.1.8 The remaining key buildings are those that fom1 a significant group which rise above
the Harbour. All show aspects of architectural merit with some intrinsically good
detailing, both original and modified; not least the presence of red brick and tile
which is of great visual importance in re lation to the coastal setting. The Arts-and
Crafts Beach Cottage appears to be a remodelling of the mid-Victorian or earlier
Beach House. The seafront carpark occupies the site of the early villa The Glen, but
its demise was early for it is absent from the 1904 Ordnance Survey.

6
4:37 PM Sun Apr 9 ••• ~ 27% I ·

The Setting and The Downs

1-5 The Babbacombe Downs conservation area is an eclectic mix of contrasting
environments; the dynamic since the mid-19th century has been to create a holiday
and recreational setting; this is now predominantly aimed at summer tourists. 'The
Down' not only functions as a garden to the hotels and guest houses that flank the
south side of Babbacomhe Downs Road (1) but also as a form of 'green' beach (2).
From here outward views are spectacular (3); they are also in complete contrast to
the sense of enclosure gained whilst negotiating the steep descent to the foreshore
(4, 5). Much of the wooded and rock-faced coastline at Babbacombe was made
accessible by the extensive network of paths and steps created by the Victorians as a
Romantic Landscape.

6 The dramatic coastline dwarfs buildings; the conservation area is as much of

landscape as of townscape value. The cliffs exhibit the complex local geology of
Devonian limestones and Triassic red sandstone, both used as a local building
material.
 12

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Guide lo the Watering Places on the S.E. Coast of Devon, Trewman & Son High Street
Exeter 1803

Eiiglami - Black's Guide Books for Tourists Adam & Charles Black Edinburgh 1857

Ward, C.S., & Baddeley, M.J.B. South Devon & South Cornwall - Thorough Guide Series
(third edition) Dulau & Co., London 1889

Hope-Moncrieff, A.R (Ed.) Black's Guide to Devon.shire (sixteenth edition) Adam & Charles
Black London 1898

Baedeker, K. Great Britain - Handbook for Travellers (sixth edition) Karl Baedeker, Leipzig
1906

Ward, C.S., & Baddeley, M.J.B. (Compilers). South Devon & South Cornwall (ninth edition)
Ward Lock & Co. Ltd. London c.1923

Reel Guides: Torquay & South Devon Ward Lock & Co. Ltd. London (Twelfth Edition)
1923-24; (Fifteenth Edition) 1939-40

Winbolt, S. E. Devon - Bell's Pocket Guides G. Bell & Sons Ltd. London 1929

Ellis, Arthur C. An Historical Suroe-y of Torquay 1930

Hoskins, W.G. Devon William Collins London 1954; (revised edition) Devon Books 1992

Wilson, John R.A. A Study in the Development of a Fashionable Resort Unpublished

Dissertation Wellswood Park Torquay 1957

Russell, Percy A History of Torquay and the Famous Anchorage ofvTorbay Torquay Natural
History Society 1960

Clifton-Taylor, Alec The Pattern of English Building Faber & Faber London 1975

Bom, Anne, The Torbay Towns Phillimore 1989 ISBN 0 85033 694 5

Cherry, Bridget and Pevsner, Nikolaus The Buildings of England, Devon Penguin (second
edition) 1989 ISBN 0 14 071050 7

Toulson, Shirley The Compa,iion Guide to Devoti Harper Collins London 1991
ISBN 0-00-215135-9

Travis, John F. The Rise ofthe Devon Seaside Resorts University of Exeter Press 1993
ISBN 0-85989-398-8

I3
 10

resloralion and conversion of Nesfield's house is a good example of whal may be

achieved. Addilionally Lhere is also scope to preserve boundary features and Lhe
surviving historic elements of design and ornament including the sympathetic use or
re-use of appropriate mate rials.

8.4 Enhancement can also be achieved by 'the control of development in adjacent areas
which could impact significantly on the townscape and environmenlal qualities
within Conservation Areas' (Local Plan, 14.10). It has been noted a bove (4. 1.5) that
just outside the conservation area boundary I.here are a number of good individual
buildings and building groups, listed and unlisted.

9 CONSERVATION AREA POLICIES

9.1 Conservation Area policies are addressed in the adopted local plan:

Policy BES - Developmem within or affecting a Conservation Area will only be

~ where it will prueroe or enhance the characw or appearance of that
area.

The Policy outlines the Council's strategy for Conservation Areas. It includes
issues such as the control of demolition, alterations and extensions, boundary
features and design aspects, as well as the control of developmenl in adjacent
areas which could impact significantly on the townscape and environmental
qualities within Conservation Areas. (The Built Environment 14.9)

further it is recognised that:

Roof materials, chimneys, cornices and mouldings, original windows and

slwpfronts, railings and boundary walls can all make an important
co.ntribution lo the character of a Conservation Area. The Council will
introduce Article 4(2) Directions to bring such items under normal development
control. (The Built Environment 14.56)

9.2 To frame specific policies within the Babbacomhe Downs Area:

(1) All unlisted buildings identified as key buildings or groups of buildings that
contribute to the historic built environment (see Map One) should be
included within Article 4(2) Directions to control inappropriate changes to
the principal elevations.

(2) Protect from detrimental loss all those key local features of special
importance (see Section 6), which need to be safeguarded or enhanced, when
detennining development proposals within the conservation area; ancl where
in future, Conservation Area, or Article 4 consent may be required.

(3) Give due consideration to other key loca l factors which mak e up the features
of special importance, suc h as the building groups of spec ial merit outside
the conservation area - or more practically extend the conservation area to

11
 7 EXTENT OF LO~, DAMAGE AND INTRUSION

7.1 There are however a number of elements that are detrimental to the character and
appearance of the conservation area. Those currently ide ntified include:

♦ those buildings fronting The Downs which have suffered later additions and
alterations, completely out of charac ter witJ1 their original form, which spoil tJ1e effect
of potentially very attractive frontages overlookfog an extensive area of public open
space;

♦ those buildings that are in a poor state of repair, are under-maintained, or have been
subjected to mutilation;

♦ tJ1e gradual but incremental loss of distinctive architectural features, such as window
surrounds, cornices, canopies etc;

♦ the loss of a large proportion of historic joinery, especially original sash windows with
glazing bars, and four and six-panel original doors;

♦ the loss of natural roofing slate and its partial or complete replacement with artificial
substitutes, some of which are very poor imitations of the original;

♦ the loss of the traditional frontages, especially at ground-floor level to commercial

premises, and their replacement with plain fascias and strong horizontal elements al
variance with the pe riod detailing of the upper floors.

8 SUMMARY

8.1 The Babbacombe Downs conservation area both possesses and is within sight of some
of the highest quality coastline within the environs of Torbay, and indeed Devon as a
whole; it has the charac ter of a separate small resort within the larger resort,
retaining its own individuality, both in terms of the later 19'h century development
and the origins of the earlier hamlet muc h closer to tJie shoreline.

8.2 To some exte nt the original 19'h century character has been compromised by
subsequent alterations and additions, which is also typical of some other Torbay
conse rvation areas. The Adopted Local Plan acknowledges this:

many of Torbay's Conservation Areas have been designated 'warts and all'
and contain areas of very mi.xed quality, including past development thal is
totally oul of context with the surrounding area. Redevelopment or alterations
to existing buildings may provide opportunities to design more appropriate new
buildings or to restore lost or degraded features. (Torbay Local Plan 1995-
2011, The Built Environment 14.8)

8.3 Thus conservation planning advice will always aim to improve tJie quality of new
building, or to restore lost or degraded features from historic ones. The recent

10
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