Unilever and Leadership: Gender, Race, and

Classification in Corporate Globalisation

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Author: Maria Humphries-Kil

Pub. Date: 2019
Product: Sage Business Cases
Sage Sage Business Cases
© Maria Humphries-Kil 2019

DOI: https://doi.org/10.4135/9781526469311
Keywords: globalisation, leadership (business), neocolonialism, gender, diversity management, sustainable
living, margarine
Disciplines: Business & Management, Corporate Social Responsibility, General Business & Management,
General Business & Management, Globalization, Business Ethics & Corporate Social Responsibility,
International Business & Management, Business Ethics (general)
Access Date: September 14, 2023
Publishing Company: SAGE Publications: SAGE Business Cases Originals
City: London
Online ISBN: 9781526469311

© 2019 SAGE Publications: SAGE Business Cases Originals All Rights Reserved.

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Abstract

Unilever is known for historic and contemporary product innovations attractive to sanitation, health,
and socially conscientious consumers. October 10, 2017, The Financial Times reported that Unilever
had apologised for an advertisement deemed racist in a widespread social media outcry. This outcry
ought not to have caught Unilever off guard given several similar and well documented errors of judg-
ment. This case provides the opportunity to introduce or extend student familiarity with critical man-
agement studies by paying attention to perhaps unnoticed histories, and through examining the tak-
en-for-granted classifications of humanity carrying selectively ingrained values, interests, and power.
Through this case, stereotypes of masculinity and femininity in corporatized objects of consumption
are highlighted. Opportunities, risks, and potential neo-colonial impacts of a limited social critique in
corporate leadership projects are posited as examples of significant corporate influence on the social
imagination. This case may also be used to consider the efficacy of diversity management projects in
the face of persistent sexism and racism as an example of paradox and contradictions at the heart of
the capitalist–democratic interface.

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Case

Learning Objectives

This case encourages reflective considerations of the opportunities and risks generated from the allocation of
ever greater responsibility to large corporations for the shaping of the human future and our relationship with
Planet Earth. It is intended to encourage a critical perspective on the:

• meanings given to equality, equity, justice, and universal emancipation;

• classifications of gender and race as examples of social fabrications carrying selectively ingrained
but necessarily fluid values, interests, and power;
• concepts of feminine and feminist contextualised in the corporatized ‘health, beauty, and the happy
life nexus’ as objects of consumption;
• opportunities, risks, and potential neo-colonial impacts of including limited social critique in corporate
leadership project(ion)s;
• corporate influence on the social imagination; and
• paradox and contradictions at the heart of the capitalist–democratic interface.

Introduction

On 10 October 2017, Scheherazade Daneshkhu, Consumer Industries Editor for the Financial Times, wrote

Unilever has apologised for an advertisement for its Dove soap brand which has been criticised for
being racist, saying it should “never have happened”. The Anglo-Dutch group pulled the Facebook
ad campaign showing a black woman removing a brown T-shirt and revealing a white woman in a
white T-shirt underneath. The white woman then takes off her T-shirt to reveal an Asian woman. The
3-second video clip made for its US Facebook page, led to an outcry on social media about black
skin being washed away into white. (Daneshkhu, 2017)

Dove soap is a well-known product in many regions of the world and much loved by many consumers. Its
producer, Unilever, is a company known for historic and contemporary product innovations attractive to san-
itation, health, and socially conscientious consumers. Unilever is also an illustrative example of the develop-

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ment of the very idea of a ‘company’ or ‘corporation’ as a legal and social fabrication vested with a variety of
characteristics and traits, some almost human-like: leadership and responsibility among them.

Unilever

Unilever, one of the world’s earliest multinational companies, has its origins in a company founded by Antoon
Jurgen in 1872 in the Dutch town of Oss. There the company set up the first margarine factory in the world.
In 1888 Samuel van den Bergh opened another margarine factory in Kleve, a North Rhine-Westphalia town
in Germany, close to the Dutch border. The two companies merged in 1927 to form Margarine Unie. In 1929
Margarine Unie and the British soap-maker Lever Brothers merged to become the British–Dutch transnation-
al company we now know as Unilever. Its products have included foods, beverages, cleaning agents, and
personal care products now available in about 190 countries. It owns more than 400 brands. In 2012 it was
deemed to be the world’s largest consumer goods company as measured by revenue and was estimated to
be Europe’s seventh most valuable company. Dove products are manufactured in more than 20 countries and
sold to consumers in more than 80 countries. The company headquarters were in London (UK) and Rotter-
dam (The Netherlands) until 2018 when a decision was made to close its London office.

The aspirations of Unilever are explicit and publicly expressed.

By 2030 our goal is to halve the environmental footprint of the making and use of our products as
we grow the business. This covers our entire value chain, from the sourcing of our raw materials and
our own manufacturing, through to consumer use and disposal. We continue to source over 50 per
cent of our agricultural raw materials sustainably.

Our third big goal is to enhance the livelihoods of millions of people through our social and economic
contributions to many communities through employment, training and advancing human rights.

The Business and Sustainable Development Commission (BSDC) has shown delivering the SDGs
[sustainable development goals] will unlock market opportunities of up to 12 trillion US dollars a
year. It creates new markets, drives growth, reduces operating costs, restores trust and ultimately
future-proofs our businesses. For Unilever, the SDGs have certainly reaffirmed our own belief in the
relevance of the Unilever Sustainable Living Plan (USLP), acting as a further catalyst for our own
actions. Now entering its seventh year, the USLP remains our blueprint for sustainable business.

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By providing quality, affordable products, we are making good progress towards our goal of helping
more than 1 billion people take action to improve their health and well-being. We have reached 538
million people since 2010. (Polman, 2017)

Since 2015, Unilever has been moving towards health and beauty brands sometimes referred to as ‘personal
care brands’. Preoccupation with personal care of the body, mind and soul has become bigger business that
ever – not only for Unilever, but for corporations selling sugar-loaded drinks promising fun-filled lives, car
companies associating high-end car models with emancipation, and whole governments offering investment

opportunity with moral exhortations. 1 Women and men the world over are lucrative targets for the promotion
of consumer items to support them in their quest to what Unilever articulates as ‘look good, feel good, [and]
to get more out of life’ (‘Unilever puts vitality’, 2004).

Along with being assessed as the world’s largest consumer goods company, Unilever demonstrates signif-
icant leadership on matters of corporate responsibility in the context of contemporary globalisation. Corpo-
rate values and market opportunities are yoked and made explicit and accessible for wider consideration in
their Sustainable Living Hub (‘Our Sustainable Living’, n.d.). Unilever is an early and committed member of
the United Nations Global Compact (UNGC; ‘Company Information Unilever’, n.d.), affirmed in early 2017 by
Chief Executive Paul Polman in recognition

of the positive contribution business can make to create a more prosperous and socially and en-
vironmentally sustainable world. It [the UNGC] sets a critical framework for establishing a culture
of integrity, upholding business to meet their responsibilities to people and planet, while setting the
stage for long-term value creation…From peace and prosperity and climate action to education of
the next generation and protecting the most vulnerable. To achieve the SDGs, business must be
part of the solution…Every day, we continue to strive to do business with care for the environment,
respect for human and labour rights and with the highest standard of business integrity. That is why
we are proud to be a founding signatory to the UNGC. (Polman, 2017)

Gender sensitivities – and an acknowledgement of human diversity more generally – are among the many
dimensions of corporate responsibilities signalled as significant by the UNCG and thus all it signatories. At
the time of writing, these signatories numbered almost ten thousand companies in more than 160 countries
(UNGC, n.d.). Appeal to gendered and cultured patterns of life has been a hallmark of the target market of
Unilever since its inception. Consumer consciousness and conscience are known by them to be a powerful
influence on behaviour. Consumers are recognised by Unilever as citizens with diverse identities and values
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and with associated multiple responsibilities and commitments (‘Unilever puts vitality’, 2004). Responding to,
encouraging and/or exploiting a sense of consumer power as a significant aspect of good citizenship is part
of their success story. This sensitivity explains in part the costly withdrawal and apology related to the Dove
soap advertisement.

Consumer Consciousness and Emancipation

The influence of changing consumer consciousness has been well understood by Unilever. The contemporary
direct and indirect alignment of Unilever with various partners demonstrates this understanding. Such part-
nerships continue to expand awareness of Unilever by its direct or indirect presence in the consumer and
public mind. In 2013 for example, Steve Bell of Georgia (United States) won the ‘King of the Castle Home
Upgrade’ sweepstake (Unilever, 2013). The prize included a home upgrade and consultation with Jonathan
Scott of Property Brothers. Jonathan, with his twin brother Drew, finds, buys, and renovates houses with po-
tential. The sweepstake offered ‘a family to win five sensational grand prize options to strengthen their home’.
Customisable prizes include: ‘a moat and functioning draw bridge, a troop of authentic-looking British Royal
Guards, a backyard tree fort of epic proportions, a ‘smart home’ and an outdoor kitchen and dining area’.

At a time of significant public anxieties in a number of countries where accessing a family home appears to

have moved beyond the reach of a generation, 2 the continued desirability of home ownership can be seen in
the popularity of house hunting and renovation programmes on TV along with all the subtler images of home
maintenance and refurbishment depicted in the myriad of advertisements for products and services that sup-
port home renovations, cleanliness, image, status, and the security of a warm healthy family home. The ‘King
of the Castle Home Upgrade’ sweepstake is just one of many direct and indirect ways the dream of home
ownership is kept alive – even as it is becoming an increasingly difficult aspiration for many people to mate-
rialise. For the purposes of ‘look good, feel good’ style campaigns, cleaning products and deodorisers do not
require house ownership. Security, warmth, and beauty should not need to depend on a significant capacity
for consumer outlay.

The ‘home as one’s castle’ sweepstake is not only about home ownership and enhancement. The sweepstake
depicts subtly embedded Victorian notions of male heads of households, which are a gendered insensitivity or
subtle endorsement of gendered stereotypes as perceived in the case of race in the Dove ad. The collective
impact of the story told in this sweepstake through popular media draws on a specific set of colonial and class
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imagery with direct engendering images Unilever is so committed to transform.

The continued appeal to desires for a clean and healthy home and personal grooming at times now involves
more male protagonists. In this example, however, an appeal is made to deeply-rooted male colonial imagery.
The original vesting of male dominance and lordship over a household and complementary but degraded do-
mestic responsibilities in women has deep roots in Unilever’s skilful target-marketing – now to be challenged
as women and men both become the targets of the ‘look good, feel good, [and] get more out of life’ branding.
The gender binary is embedded.

Normalising Cleanliness and Health: A Vital Relationship

Unilever tells of its historic contribution to health and cleanliness with a specific attention to both the social
responsibilities attributed to women with regard to domestic and the personal hygiene and also their desire
and the requirement to look attractive. For example,

In the 1890s, William Hesketh Lever, founder of Lever Brothers, wrote down his ideas for Sunlight
Soap – his revolutionary new product that helped popularize cleanliness and hygiene in Victorian
England.

It was “to make cleanliness commonplace; to lessen work for women; to foster health and contribute
to personal attractiveness, that life may be more enjoyable and rewarding for the people who use
our products”.

That sense of purpose and mission has always been part of Unilever’s culture. In the 21st century,
we’re still helping people to look good, feel good and get more out of life – and our purpose as a
business is ‘making sustainable living commonplace’. (‘Our History’, n.d.)

Think for a moment of industrialising Europe during the 19th century. Think of the squalor even in the highest
echelons of society. It was Prince Albert, Consort of Queen Victoria, who arranged for water-closets (toilets)
to be installed in their home at Balmoral Castle, not only for the flushing of Royal waste but for the use by all
members of the household. Albert’s vision was for a cleaner England. Albert is an example of a leader who
saw the connection between provision of personal amenities and securing public wellbeing (Joyce, 2009).

As in so many industrialising European cities of the time, much pressure was placed on politicians to build

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public infrastructure. After all, diseases generated from human squalor were highly infectious and do not obey
the boundaries of class. But the compelling evidence, as reported by experts, associating hygiene with im-
proving public health was not always welcome in industrialising Europe. During this time, for example, Ignaz
Semmelweis, a Hungarian physician, was alerted to contrasting rates of deaths as a consequence of child-
birth between women giving birth in a supposedly safer institutions and those giving birth on the streets of
Vienna.

Semmelweis proposed connection between cadaveric contamination and puerperal fever. He demonstrated
that those staff members who had no contact with corpses experienced a much lower mortality rate. He insti-
tutionalised washing hands between autopsy work and the examination of patients. The mortality rate in April
1847 was 18.3%. After the institutionalisation of handwashing in mid-May, ‘the rates in June were 2.2%, July
1.2%, August 1.9% and, for the first time since the introduction of anatomical orientation, the death rate was
zero in two months in the year following this discovery’ (‘Ignaz Semmelweis’, n.d.).

But Semmelweis did not reap any personal gain from his life-saving intervention. In 1865 it was said he was
lured to a Viennese insane asylum. When he tried to leave, he was severely beaten by several guards. He
died two weeks later from a gangrenous wound, possibly caused by the beating.

In the public imagination, Louis Pasteur now carries much credit for the value of handwashing (Ginnivan,
2014). Throughout Europe, cleanliness was placed next to godliness and soon became visually displayed on
the body and the clothing as part of the common understanding of not only virtue, good health, and commu-
nity safety, but also began to be associated with personal attractiveness. The story connecting cleanliness to
personal wellbeing and the common good is a great story to attract investors and conscientious consumers
to the products to meet the new demands, as demonstrated in the story of the Lever brothers and continued
in the form of Unilever as a corporation explicitly endorsing the values and mandate of the UNGC. It is an on-
going story that benefits from continued attention – in the interests of individual wellbeing and of the common
good – two sides of the same coin.

In taking the opportunities for leadership and influence from its endorsement of the UNGC, Unilever has will-
ingly placed itself under scrutiny. A willingness to be open to scrutiny of corporate integrity is driven in part
by necessity. The consciousness and conscientiousness of consumers, corporate peers, and competitors in
UNGC, a growing influence of ethical investors, and critics in social media have more access to information
and are able to form activist networks more quickly and more widely than ever before. With its acknowledge-
ment of the SDGs and the associated need for the control of water for the production, packaging, transport,

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consumption, and disposal of Unilever products, the porous boundaries of responsibilities among social, po-
litical, economic, and environmental concerns are paramount. Unilever is not shying away from this complex
entanglement of issues as set out in the USLP.

The Unilever Sustainable Living Plan (USLP) is our blueprint for achieving our vision to grow our
business, whilst decoupling our environmental footprint from our growth and increasing our positive
social impact. The Plan sets stretching targets, including how we source raw materials and how con-
sumers use our brands. (‘Our sustainable living’, n.d.)

Added to this explicit statement of commitment by Unilever to a sustainable future and to positive social im-
pacts are many proclamations and projects intended to realise universal human rights, gender equality, and
so forth. That Unilever acknowledges that they make mistakes is an important step towards the reclamation
of their reputation and their market brand.

However, this is the second time that the brand has been accused of racism. In 2011, it ran a cam-
paign showing three women of different ethnicities with a label “before” over a black woman and
“after” over a white woman. Mary Harding, managing director at communications agency Tangerine,
said: “The fact that this isn’t the first time Unilever has been called out for not portraying women
of colour ‘thoughtfully’ raises wider questions about its creative process and what consumer testing
was put in place ahead of the social ad going live.” Dove has in the past enjoyed plaudits for its “real
women” campaign using females of all shapes and sizes for ads instead of relying on skinny mod-
els. Though some social media users talked of boycotting the Dove brand, Ms Harding said it was
not a given that sales would suffer. “At the end of the day, whether the ad offends you or not it’s got
everyone talking…” (Daneshkhu, 2017)

But are we talking enough? Are we critical enough in our talk? Is purported consumer consciousness and
conscientiousness a robust enough social force to attend to the issues of social and environmental degrada-
tion facing humanity? In a recent advertisement by a different company for a spray-product to remove odour
from toilet bowls, a rather ditsy woman is hugely relieved that she will not leave a tell-tale smell behind for the
subsequent user of the toilet (The Grocer, n.d.). The play on ‘shame’ and ‘power’ are somewhat camouflaged
by the spoof-like story the advertisement tells. A match lit above the toilet bowl, however, can deal to any
lingering smell if natural smells are to be considered an affront to our personal dignity. Yet shame, (un)cleanli-
ness, and (un)happiness are woven into consumer identity by many producers of the nexus between beauty,
health, and happiness – and then linked again in the public mind by the example of Unilever’s connection to

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justice and sustainability in the social imagination. Think of the unspecified contribution to air and water pol-
lution of the product ingredients and the manufacture and disposal of the containers. Along with many such
advertisements from many producers, the marketers tell us ‘you are worth it’ (“Because You’re Worth It’, n.d.).

Unilever has a big agenda.

We continuously review the USLP, challenge ourselves and set new targets. We announced in Jan-
uary 2017 that [we] are committing to ensuring that 100 per cent of our plastic packaging will be
reusable, recyclable or compostable by 2025. This was in addition to our existing commitment to in-
crease our use of recycled plastic in packaging by at least 25 per cent by 2025.

We are making ongoing improvements in the management of our environmental and societal impact
and to the longer-term goal of developing a sustainable business. To achieve this, we work in part-
nership with others – including government, NGOs and other companies – to create the transforma-
tional change needed in today’s world, while also increasing our understanding and sharing of good

practice. (Polman, 2017)

Unilever’s aspirations and actions are necessary perhaps as a requirement to ensure their licence to operate
is to be sustainable – a condition of existence outlined by Morgan (2019). The proposed actions may be nec-
essary but are still insufficient to generate a future of universal sustainable life for all people and planet. To be
realised, such aspirations may require a different model of development than one that serves corporate-led
sustainability above all (Humphries-Kil, 2019). Baking soda is already a known safe cleaning agent. Its wide-
spread use for cleaning, as a match lit over a toilet bowl for the elimination of undesirable odours, might do
more for the environment than all the corporate leadership through product promotion linked to the ‘good’ life.

Discussion Questions

1. Explain and give examples of meanings given to equality, equity, justice, and universal emancipation
in your general education, in your management studies, and/or in the jurisdiction you hope to find
employment.
2. Notions of gender, race, and class are examples of social classifications carrying deeply ingrained
values, interests, and power. What can we learn about the social and environmental leadership of
corporations for universal justice in a more critical reading of the Dove advertisement in question?

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Relate your answer to Unilever’s apology in their response to the specific social media outcry and to
the seemingly unnoticed stereotyping in the ‘King of the Castle’ sweepstake outlined in the case.
3. Examine the prevalence of feminine and masculine stereotypes in various advertising media, and
subtle changes in their depictions in relation to the corporate values of the sponsor. Compare and
contrast liberal and radical feminist ideas in the framing of your analysis.
4. Discuss the nexus of health, beauty, and the happy life and the power of corporate influence on the
social imagination. What does it matter if leadership in such influence is largely corporate driven?
5. Potential neo-colonial impacts of including social critics in corporate creative teams are not frequently
considered in management education programmes. What are the claims of scholars concerned with
neo-colonial processes and impacts? Why should we trouble ourselves to understand their claims?
6. Universal human rights and competitive individualism are two characteristics of neo-liberalism. What
are some of the ideals vested in these notions? What contradictions may arise when these two ideas
and ideals are simultaneously valued?

Notes

1. Indonesia

2. The question that might be asked is: What are Unilever doing re the vagaries of house prices and accessi-
bility, homelessness and housing as a human right when access to a home is out of reach for so many people
even in ‘advanced economies’ – economies deemed the epitome (thus far) of the form of globalisation the
whole world is pressed to take up?

References

Because you’re worth it: The story behind the legendary phrase. (n.d.). L’Oréal Paris. Retrieved from
https://www.lorealparisusa.com/about-loreal-paris/because-youre-worth-it.aspx

Company information Unilever. (n.d.). United Nations Global Compact. Retrieved from https://www.unglobal-
compact.org/what-is-gc/participants/9643-Unilever

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Daneshkhu, S. (2017, October9). Unilever pulls Dove ad after complaints of racism. Financial Times. Re-
trieved from https://www.ft.com/content/32e16984-acf4-11e7-beba-5521c713abf4

Ginnivan, L. (2014). The dirty history of doctors’ hands. Method, 1, http://www.methodquarterly.com/2014/11/

handwashing/

Humphries-Kil, M. T. (2019). A [business] model for world development. SAGE Business Cases.

Ignaz Semmelweis. (n.d.). Wikipedia. Retrieved June 19, 2018 from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignaz_Sem-
melweis#cite_note-Nuland1-36

Joyce, M. (2009). From past to present; The changing focus of public health. Unpublished manuscript, Col-
lege of Social Science, School of Health & Social Care, University of Lincoln, Lincoln, UK. Retrieved from
http://eprints.lincoln.ac.uk/1839/

Our history. (n.d.). Unilever. Retrieved from https://www.unilever.co.nz/about/who-we-are/our-history/

Our sustainable living report hub. (n.d.). Unilever. Retrieved from https://www.unilever.com/sustainable-living/
our-sustainable-living-report-hub/

Polman, P. (2017, June22). United Nations Global Compact communications on progress (COP) message
from our chief executive officer. Unilever. Retrieved from https://www.unilever.com/Images/unilever-ungc-
cop-2017-ceo-leadership-statement_tcm244-508417_1_en.pdf

The Grocer. (n.d.). Airwick kicks off 2 million pound push for V.I.P. loo spray. Retrieved from https://www.the-
grocer.co.uk/buying-and-supplying/marketing/air-wick-kicks-off-2m-push-for-vipoo-loo-spray/548928.article

Unilever. (2013, November22). Dove® Men+Care™ Hair crowns “King of the Castle Home Upgrade” winner.
PR Newswire. Retrieved from https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/dove-mencare-hair-crowns-king-
of-the-castle-home-upgrade-winner-232993431.html

Unilever puts vitality at core of new mission. (2004, February12). Unilever. Retrieved from
https://www.unilever.com/news/Press-releases/2004/04-02-12-Unilever-puts-vitality-at-core-of-new-mis-
sion.html

UNGC. (n.d.). See who’s involved. Retrieved from https://www.unglobalcompact.org/what-is-gc/participants

https://doi.org/10.4135/9781526469311

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