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Body Scrub Class Booklet
Body Scrub Class Booklet
Body Scrub Class Booklet
Your skin sheds 30,000 to 40,000 dead cells per minute, but sometimes this natural shedding isn't
enough. If you don't remove dead skin cells, dirt and debris can become trapped in your pores.
Dead cells that have been on the surface of your skin are duller and dryer than the newer cells
underneath.
Exfoliating your entire body can help prevent body acne in many places below your neck, such
as the chest, back, and arms. It also helps you avoid ingrown hairs by preventing dead skin cells
from plugging up follicles where you've shaved or waxed. It assist in evening out skin tone and
keeps your skin hydrated and soft.
Don't scrub on a daily basis. People with normal or dry skin need to exfoliate only once or twice
a week. Keep in mind that the purpose of exfoliating is to remove skin cells that are dead. You
shouldn't have to scrub too hard or too often to make that happen. If you do, you're likely to take
off healthy cells, too, which might leave your skin looking red and feeling sore. Rubbing the
particles firmly but gently on your skin in circular motions should be enough to get the job done.
When exfoliating less is more. Use only a small amount of exfoliatant and take time to really
gently scour your skin in circular motions; if you take a large dollop, the exfoliatant will grind
against itself instead of your skin and you will not receive the benefits. You may exfoliate when
the skin is dry or exfoliate after you have damped your skin (this is up to your personal preference).
After showering off residue be sure and GENTLY pat your skin dry. Exfoliating will help prime
your skin to soak up the benefits of your favorite lotion or cream so don’t skip this step. If your
skin will be exposed to the sun, add sunscreen 20 to 30 minutes before you head outside. Sunscreen
is always a good idea, and it’s particularly important after exfoliating, which exposes fresh new
skin that's especially prone to sun damage.
DO Feel your skin before and after exfoliating (experience that WOW after!)
DO Make this an enjoyable experience for yourself
DO Shave AFTER exfoliating
DO Use a moisturzing cream, butter or lotion after exfoliating
DO Go treat your self to a Spray Tan
SALT
Traditional scrubs are formulated with salts as they have muscle relaxing qualities, minerals and
trace elements, and are ideal exfoliate's.
There are differences between the “Fixed Oils” (aka Carrier Oils) and volatile plant oils. Fixed
oils do NOT evaporate. Plant Essential Oils DO evaporate because they are Volatile.
Fixed oil will leave a permanent oil mark on paper because of there lubricating quality and low
volatility.
Essential oils do not leave an oily mark on paper (although if there is color to the oil the color
present will leave a stain).
Fixed oils have high viscosity. Essential oils have low viscosity.
The aroma of fixed oils are weak. Essential oil aroma is strong.
Fixed oils can be solvent or cold expressed. Essential oils are distilled or Expressed
Fatty Acids:
Saturated Fatty Acids: 4.4% (stearic 4.4%,)
Monousaturated Fatty Acids 23.4% (palmitoeic acid 7,2% oleic 16.2%)
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids 70.6% (Linoleic)
Trace acids: Saturated: myristic, palmitic, arachidic behenic.
Uses (scrubs)
light and dry, tones the skin
barrier repair and moisturizing, reduction in trans epidermal water loss, damaged and stressed skin
supports cell membranes
Good for those who cannot tolerate “nut” oils
Properties (scrubs)
Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant
Fatty Acids:
Saturated Fatty Acids: 6% Palmitic
Monousaturated Fatty Acids: 25.4% Oleic
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids: 65.4% (a-Linolenic 25.6%, Linoleic 39.8%)
Rich in Vitamins: A, C, E (anti-oxidants)
Uses (scrubs)
rejuvenating and soothing
moisture and nourishment
Good for sensitive skin
Good for dry skin
Properties (scrubs)
None documented at this time
Fatty Acids:
Saturated Fatty Acids: 17.8% (Palmitic 13.0%, Stearic 4.8%)
Monousaturated Fatty Acids: 23.3% Oleic
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids: 57.2% Linoleic
Trace acids: Saturated: eicosanoic (C20:0), tetracosanoic (C24:0). Monousaturated: eicosenic (C20:1),
tetracosanoic (C24:1) a-linolenic
Rich in Zinc, and contains Vitamins B, C, E.
Uses (scrubs)
rejuvenating and soothing
moisture and nourishment
Good for sensitive skin
Good for dry skin
Properties (scrubs)
Anti-inflammatory
ORGANIC COFFEE
Topically Applied coffee helps to redistribute fat cells and decrease the formation of
cellulite. It acts as a vasorestritor, tighting and shrinking blood vessels thereby helping
eliminate varicose vein. The main chemical in coffee is caffeine, a natural antioxidant.
Antioxidants neutralize the effects of free radicals, when a coffee body scrub is applied, the
skin aborbs this.
There are no real therapeutic benefits to Organic Vanilla Speck – it's simply a scent for
your Body Scrub.
This is an organic Vitamin E T-50 oil a natural heat stable antioxidiant and organic
preservative.
Some books recomemend that essential oils be used “neat” on the skin. Essential oils are never to be
used “neat” unless you have had training (chemistry, botany, and aromatherapy) and experience with the
oils.
Blending: Basis dilution for EO's that are applied to the skin should never exceed 1% unless the
formulation has been prepared by a trained Aromatherapist
When using Organic carrier oils it is imporant that the end user is not sensitive to “nuts” or “latex”.
Great care must be taken when using Carrier oils (aka Fixed Oils) and Essential oils during pregnancy as
many have a stimulating effect on the uterus.
Essential oil's can be transfer from the mother milk to the baby when nursing – so avoid use when
nursing.
Many essential oils will remove the finish when spilled on furniture!
Keep all EO bottles tightly closed to prevent evaporation and oxidation. Store in cool dark area.
Be aware of all the medications you are taking – many Essential oils will negate your medication or
cause other problems.
Ignorance is Bliss? Much of the misnaming of oils for aromatherapy comes through ignorance on the part
of the supplier. Occasionally a supplier sells an expensive fixed oil, such as evening primrose, as an
essential oil, putting it into a small bottle with an integral dorpper and within an essential oil price range.
Unfortunately, aromatherapy is a popular bandwagon to jump on, and the very word has selling power,
being used by the unscrupulous, sometimes at the expense of the unwary honest dealer. Standardized oils
are cheap and easy to obtain, unlike the genuine unadulterated essential oils necessaray for aromatherapy.
Quality variation
Variation in the quality of an essential oil may be natural or due to human intervention. Wine is
a comemodity which is expected to have a different taste and character from year to year,
although harvested, processed and bottled at the same vineyard and from the same vines. Plants
are subject to varing amounts of sunshine, frost, rain, heat or cold each year, and it is these
factors, plus the comeposition of the soil, which are responsible for the variations in quality and
comeposition (and therefore the aroma) of the plant extracts, occurring naturally from year to
year.
Imitations
Expensive essential oils such as Melissa officinalis [melissa] and Aloysia triphylla [Lemon
verbena] are often imitated by the perfume industry by using blends of cheaper oils to stimulate
the aroma; to the perfumer, the aroma is the most important asset of an 'essential oil', not whether
Deterpenized Oils
Essential oils used in fragrance industry often have their terpenes partly or wholly removed on
account of their insolubility in alcohol, which would result in cloudiness – a distinct comemercial
and asthetic disadvantage in a perfume! The deterpenized oil is incomeplete and contains in
higher proportions the remaining consituents of the oil, for example the deterpenization of
peppermint increases the content of the possibly hazardous ketone menthone. In aromatherapy
there is no necessity for this and it is imperative not to interfere with the natural balance of the
essential oil. Some therapist purchase bergapten-free bergamot oil, as this constituent (a
furanocourmarin) can be responsible for phototoxicity of the skin in sunlight, but this is
unnecessary.
Contaminants
The majority of essential oils are produced for use by the food and fragrance industries which,
generally speaking, are not concerned whether or not fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides may be
present in the oil. Stewart (2004 p. 10) says that herbicides, fungicides and pesticides are
intrinsically toxic and inevitably end up as contaminants in the oils, directly affecting their efficay
and safety.
comemerial grade oils can present toxic effects as a result of adulteration, folding, strechting
etc. to which they are subjected in order to have:
. A standardized product which can be repeated at any time, which is impossible with
naturally grown plants:
. A product at a price comepatible with their marketing strategy (often meaning cheap).
For therapeutic use aromaterapists use only distilled essential oils and expressed essences,
although some occasionallly make exception to the rule by using jasmine absolute or benzoin.
Peru balsam from El Salvador and tolu balsam are both standardized or synthesized in
Europe
Sandalwood from South India (Mysore) is not availabe yet continues to be sold.
Rosewood oil from the Amazon is not availabe because the industry is finished . The same
situation exist with Copaiba balsam.
Tea Tree – there are three times more sold in the world than is produced in Australia; tea tree
oil is a comparatively simple oil comeprising only about 30 compounds (cf. Ylang ylang, with
about 1200) and so it is easy to reconstruct; also the 'natural' oil iis often 'regulated' at the source.
Barreme lavender (a lavender high in linalyl acetate) has not been produced for many years but
unbelievably appears on some sales list.
. Genuine, meaning that nothing is added to the essential oil and that it is pure, natural and
comeplete.
. Pure, which specifies that no other essential oils or vegetable oils are present in the product.
An oil diluted with vegetable oil, like grapeseed or canola, is generally easy to detect by its texture
and its inability to evaporate. Often times, more expensive oils are stretched, or adulterated, using
other oils. For example bergamot (citrus bergamia) may be stretched using lemon (citrus limon),
. Natural, which means that no synthetic ingredients are added to the essential oil. Perfume oils,
even so-called natural perfume oils, may be diluted with petrochemicals like mineral oils,
propylene glycol, phthalates or other synthetics. This should be easy enough to detect, but again,
experience is important in the detection process.
. comeplete, indicating that the oil has not been decolorized or deterpenized. The flavor and
fragrance industry requires certain molecules (terpenes) and color to be extracted from natural oils.
This practice, not used in aromatherapy, may cause the oils to have less activity or to becomee
irritants.
. Authentic describes the source of the oil. An essential oil used in aromatherapy should be
clearly defined as coming from one plant of an identified botanical source. The distillation should
be from one specific plant and not a mix of similar plants or plants that grow alongside the chosen
path.
Finally, when purchasing essential oils, you should know their specific botanical origin. This
criterion tells you which plant the oil is extracted from and is generally identified by genus and the
species of the plant. An oil labeled “chamomile” could be from Matricaria recutita, Anthemis
nobilis, or Ormensis multicolis. Each of these plants produces oils that have distinctly different
properties. You will avoid confusion by knowing the correct botanical designation of the essential
oil.
LEMON
Citrus limon (Lemon), Family: Rutaceae, obtained from coldpressing of fruit. Origin: Italy
Fragrance Character: Top Note, Lemony, moderate to high odor intensity
Characteristic components:
Monoterpenes: Limonene (70%)
а-pinene and β-pinene (hydrocarbons)
Aldehydes: citral (5%)
Coumarines (2%)
Uses (scrubs)
Properties (scrubs)
Anti-viral, antibacterial, antimelanistic (brown skin spots, freckles), antisclerotic (combats ageing process),
phlebotonic (varicose veins)
Note: Like other citrus peels oils Lemon oil is cold pressed. The process of cold pressing presents no barrier for
pesticides to reach the oil. It is therefore crucial that lemon oil, especially when used come from Organic cultivation.
Caution: This oil is phototoxic therefore exposure to sunlight is to be avoided for 1 hour after skin application.
SWEET ORANGE
Citrus Aurantium Var. Sinenis Per. (Sweet Orange), Family: Rutaceae, obtained from cold
pressing of fruit and peel . Origin: Italy. Fragrance Character: Top note, orange, low to
moderate intensity
Characteristic components:
Monoterpenes: limonene (90%)
Alcohol: linalool (5%)
Esters: geranyl acetate, linalyl acetate (2%)
Uses (scrubs)
Purifying aids in breaking down cellulite,
Mood uplifting, improves mental alertness, memory sharpens the senses, depression relief
Relives Spasms
Properties (scrubs)
Antibacterial, antidepressant, antifungal, anti-inflammatory
Note: Like other citrus peels oils Lemon oil is cold pressed. The process of cold pressing presents no barrier for
pesticides to reach the oil. It is therefore crucial that lemon oil, especially when used come from Organic cultivation.
Caution: This oil is phototoxic therefore exposure to sunlight is to be avoided for 1 hour after skin application.
EUCALYPTUS DIVES
Eucalyptus Dives Ct. Piperitenone fol., (Eucalyptus Dives), Family: Myrtaceae, Distillation of
the branches leaves. Origin: Australia. Fragrance Character: Top/Middle note, fruity
“eucalyptus” moderate odor intensity
Characteristic components:
Monoterpenes: а-phellandrene (30 %)
Ketones: piperitone (40%)
Alcohols: linalool
Properties (scrubs)
Antibacterial, anti-infectious, antiviral
PEPPERMINT MITCHAM
Mentha x Piperita Fol., (Peppermint), Family: Lamiaceae, Distillation of the young leaves.
Origin: France. Fragrance Character: Top and Middle Note, mint, moderate to high odor
intensity
Characteristic components:
Alcohols: menthol, peperitol (45%)
Ketones: menthone, piperitone (25%)
Oxides: 1,8-cineole, pipertone-oxide (>10%)
Uses (scrubs)
Lack of concentration, muscle spasms, memory, refreshing, stimulant uplifting
Properties (scrubs)
Antifungal. Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antidepressant
LAVENDER, WILD
Lavandula angustifolia (I. Vera) Flos, (Lavender, Wild), Family: Lamiaceae, Distillation of
the flowers. Origin: France. Frangrance Character: Middle note, floral, moderate odor
intensity
Characteristic components:
Esters: linalyl acetate, lavendulyl acetate, gerayl acetate (<60%)
Acohols: linalool, borneol
Coumarines (>30%)
Over 200 active comepounds
Properties (scrubs)
Analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, balancing, calming, sedative
HOPS
Humulus lupus (Hops), Family: Cannabinaceae, Distillation of the upper part of the plant.
Origin: Germany (Bavaria). Frangrance Character: Middle to Base Note, “woody”, moderate odor
intensity
Characteristic components:
Sesquiterpenes: farnesene, β-caryophyllene, а-humulene (60%)
Esters: geranyl acetate
Uses (scrubs)
Calming, promotes a restful sleep, releases cramps
Properties (scrubs)
anti-inflammatory, calmative, emollient, tranquilizer, Hops oil is one of the strongest sedative agents in
aromatherapy.
FRANKINCENSE
Boswellia Carteri Res. Dist (Frankincense), Family: Olibanum, CO2 extraction of the resin. Origin
Oman. Frangrance Character: Base, Middle note, resinous, smokey, “spiritual”, moderate odor
intensity
Characteristic components:
Monoterpenes: a-pinene, limonen (30%)
Sesquiterpenes: a-gurjunene
Sesquiterpene Alcohols: borneol, farnesol
Properties (scrubs)
antibacterial, antidepressent, antioxidant, antiseptic, rejuvenator (skin)
MYRR
comemiphora momol (Myrr), Family: Burseraceae, CO2 extraction of the resin. Origin Oman.
Frangrance Character : Base, Middle note resinous, earthy, “spiritual”, moderate odor intensity
Characteristic components:
Sesquiterpenes (50%)
Uses (scrubs)
Mood uplifting, healing to the skin, calming
Properties (scrubs)
antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, rejuvenator (skin cells), revitalizing (skin), sedative, tonifying
You can use either One Essential oil or you can combine two Essential Oils (for clarification speak
with class instructor) to create the body scrub you would like.
Congestion: Eucalyptus Dives, Peppermint (this combination will wake you up!)
Relaxing: Lavender,
Morning Scrubs: Coffee & Vanilla (no EO's), Lemon, Sweet Orange, Eucalyptus Dives,
Peppermint
Adulteration the introduction of an inpurity that is either accidentally or more normally deliberately
introduced into a product and that alters it comeposition and properties, making it of an inferior quality.
Antioxidant a natural or synthetic substance which minimises the destuctive effect of free radicals e.g.
vitamins C and E.
Aromachology science of the effects of aromas influencing emotions, feelings and behaviour via the
nose/brain system
Aromatherapy (one of the many definitions) the art and science of using essential oils derived from
plants, flowers, fruit, seeds, and woods for the health wellness of the body, mind, and spirit
Astringent causing contraction of living tissues (often mucous membranes), reducing haemorrhages,
secretions, diarrhoea etc.
Base note aromatic materials of low volatility, giving an extended persistence of fragrance. Do not
evaporate quickly
Carrier Oil non-volatile oil, plant oils consists of esters of fatty acids usually triglycerides. A vegetable,
nut, or fruit oil in which essential oils are diluted. Carrier oils are often selected for their individual healing
properties. ALSO called 'fixed oil'
Chemotype visually identical plants with significantly different chemical comeponents, resulting in
different therapeutic properties; abreviated to ct, as in Thymus vulgaris ct. alcohol
Cutting a dilution or weakening of a substance. Essential oils may have many additions to increase their
volume such as alcohols, terpenes from other oils, and DPG (dipropylglycol) used for bulking up lavender.
Emollient softens the skin and soothes inflamed and irritated tissues.
Essential oil many definitions exist, referring to the odoriferous and volatile products from natural sources.
Usually extracted by expression or steam distillation from a single species, producing an essential oil that
corresponds to that species in chemical comeposition and odour.
Fixed oil non-volatile oil, plant oils consists of esters of fatty acids usually triglycerides. A vegetable, nut,
or fruit oil in which essential oils are diluted. Carrier oils are often selected for their individual healing
properties. ALSO called 'carrier oil'
Hydrophilic a substance is hydrophilic when it readily mixes with water or waterlike liquid such as
alcohol.
Lipid generic name for all fats, oils and fatty substances; a fat or fat-like substance insoluble in water and
soluble in organic solvents
Lipophilic having strong affinity for lipids. A substance is lipophilic, when it readily mixes with other oily
or fatty substances
Middle Note a fragrance note of intermediate volatility and lasting power, moderate evaporation rate.
Nature identical oils a combination of synthetically produced chemicals, or chemicals extracted from
cheap oils, made to imitate a genuine essential oil. Owing to the complex and variable nature of natural
essential oils, synthetics cannot hope to replicate their properties and are not suitable for aromatherapy.
Note a classification for aromatic components of essential oils and perfumes. Top notes are sharp,
penetrating and highly volatile (e.g. citrus oils, peppermint) evaporating quickly. Middle note
characteristics are used to give body to blends (e.g. geranium, lavender) and have a moderate evaporation
rate . Base notes are the least volatile and used as fixatives to give more permanence (e.g. sandalwood,
vetivert), they are more viscous oils have a deeper fragrance and have a slow evaportion rate.
Phenylpropanes, soft strongly spasmolytic, influence the Autonomous Nervous System and digestive tract
Photosensitization abormally increase sensitivity of the skin to ultraviolet radiation or natural sunlight; can
follow ingestion or contact with various substances
Phototoxicity an excessive reaction to sunlight (or UV light) caused by chemicals when applied to the
skin.
Polarity: A molecular quality, whereas lipophilicity is the quality of macroscopic physical matter.
A molecule is generally considered to be polar if it has centers of opposite partial electrical charges. i.e. a
terpene alcohol will concentrate a partial negative charge surrounding the oxygen and a partial positive
charge somwhere away from the oxygen. Polar molecules make for hydrophilic substances. Non polar
molecules make for lipophilic
Rectification the process whereby an essential oil is processed to removed unwanted comeponents, e.g. by
redistilling, deterpenizing. Recertificated Oils are not suitable for aromatherapy.
Sesquiterpene alcohols broad variation of properties (e.g. Ginger – stimulates digestion, Patchouli –
antimycotic (anti-fungal) for skin, Sandalwood – urinary tract antiseptic, Atlas Cedar – circulatory stimulant
etc.)
Skin irritation a reaction to an irritant that produces itchiness and inflammation. The reactions of
different individuals to a given potential irritant can vary, as there is a wide tolerance range. The majority
of essential oils in aromatherapy used in the correct dilutions are perfectly safe, but potential irritants are
usually used at a strength of 1% or less
Skin sensitization This differs from skin irritation in that, once the skin has reacted to the substance, upon
subsequent exposure it will be even more sensitive. This is an example of an allergic response as the
immune system has reacted to produce antibodies. Upon subsequent exposure, antibodies can be rapidly
released again.
Terpene Alcohols mild, antimicrobial, antiviral, tissue firming, restores tonus in muscles and nerves
Top Notes the most volatile ingredients of an essential oil or perfume. The first smells perceived by the
olfactory apparatus quickest to evaporate.
Variety (botany) indicates a botanical rank between subspecies and forma; abreviated to var., as in Citrus
aurantium var. amara
Name: _________________________________________________
Formulation Recipe
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