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The Fort of Janjira
The Fort of Janjira
Pushkar Sohoni
T
he fort of Janjira is located on an island just off the west coast
of India, approximately 85 kilometers as the crow flies south
of Mumbai. It served as the stronghold of Janjira state, which
was ruled by the ethnic group of administrator-warriors of East African
descent called the Sidis. Starting as nobles in the courts of the Nizam
Shahs of Ahmadnagar and serving them for over a hundred years, the
Sidis eventually created an independent kingdom, centered around this
island fort. They ruled over this sovereign state for over three hundred
years, from 1621 to 1948.1 The fortified island itself was called Habsan
(Persian for Abyssinians), or Murud-Janjira (a concatenation of the
words for island in two languages, Murud in Konkani and Jazeera in
Arabic), while the name Janjira, sometimes used for the island, also
refers to the entire independent kingdom. The territory of the British
Indian princely state of Janjira was fixed as a small strip of coastal
land between the estuaries of the Kundalika and Savitri rivers in the
modern Raigad district of Maharashtra.2 Several features make this
polity unique in South Asia: it was one of two princely states that were
1 For the history of the Janjira kingdom, see Chitnis 2005, Banaji 1932 and Gazetteer
1883, pages 432-452.
2 For the extent of the princely state of Janjira under the British, see Imperial Gazetteer
1908-1931 pages 57-61, esp. p. 57. 1. (opposite) Janjira’s Island fort.
ruled by the Sidis;3 succession was decided by election, and not merely
by bloodline;4 and it was the only Indian kingdom which was militarily
based off the mainland and relied on its naval prowess rather than its
territorial forces. Hence, the architectural importance of the fort of
Janjira cannot be overstated, both as an exemplar of naval fortification,
but also as one of the few sites that could resist all the major imperial
powers of early modern South Asia. The rulers of Janjira were called
Wazirs until 1803, after which they used the title of Nawab, and it was
only after 1879 that the rulers were truly dynastic.5 This essay provides
an exploration of the history of the island and of its terrain, and
presents a political and social context for the period of its occupation.
3 The other Sidi state was Sachin, whose history is entwined with that of Janjira; for
more on Sachin, see McLeod 2006, pages 219-233.
4 Jasdanwalla 2011, pages 41-58, esp. p. 55.
5 Gazetteer 1883 page 452.
6 Ibid., page 434; Kadiri 1967, pages 55-76, esp. p. 55.
7 Eaton 2005 pages 105-128, esp. 107-110 passim.
2. Stamped paper depicting the
8 Gazetteer 1883, page 435.
military and naval power of
the Janjira’s Sidis. Collection of 9 Jasdanwalla 2011, page 46.
Kenneth and Joyce Robbins. 10 Kadiri 1967, pages 74-75.
PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION
OF THE FORT OF JANJIRA
Across the bay from the town of Rajpuri is the island of Janjira.25 The
island, which is congruent with the fort enclosing 22 acres, is located
in the estuarine creek of the Mandad river, about a kilometer from
the mainland. The island is accessible only by boat, and punting is
possible at low tide. The irregularly round island is completely walled in,
ensuring that landings from the sea can be possible at only the heavily
defended control points, of which there are two. The main entrance to
the fort is on the eastern side, facing the mainland, and accessible only
by steps from a small landing area. The other opening to the entire fort
is the postern gate, facing north, which was used during sieges. Only two
other forts in the Deccan are similar to Janjira, the forts of Ahmadnagar
The entrance to the fort is not easily obvious and is visible only at a
short distance from the shallow eastern side. While some of the rock
foundations of the fort are visible at low tide, the shallow depths and
shoals allow only very small craft to come close to the island, particularly
on the eastern side, thus precluding the possibility of scaling the
fortifications from ships. The site is truly liminal, and therefore attacks
by both land or sea were near-impossible; land forces were impeded
by water, and marine forces struggled with land in the shallow depths
around the fort.
The walls of Janjira fort are over 15 meters high at high tide, punctuated
by regularly placed bastions, and with crenellations and loopholes
running the complete length The great entrance is flanked by two round
towers. These are smaller than the seventeen bastions that are placed
along the outer walls at nearly uniform intervals of about 30 meters.
From the outside, the walls present three distinct coursed stories with
battlements on top. The lowermost storey of that facade is clearly a
basement storey, with the postern gate being the sole opening at that
level on the northwestern side. The middle storey has small square
openings at regular intervals, small enough to not make the walls
vulnerable to attack or scaling. Internally, the small openings let in light
to vaulted barracks and storage spaces. The uppermost demarcated
4a-b. (oppsite) Views of mainland
as seen from the fort.
26 Sohoni 2015, pages 111-126, esp. p. 115. 5. (above) The walls of the fort.
The entrance landing leads up a small flight of stairs inside the vaulted
gateway. Straight ahead is an inscription, while on the left wall are a
pair of lions and a pair of elephants, and on the right wall is the motif
of a lion conquering or trampling several miniature elephants. This
imagery had a particular valency in the Deccan in the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries and was present on most military construction as
a device for protection and a proclamation of royal sovereignty.27 All
the Deccan sultanates and early Marathas placed similar sculptures
in relief on the entrance gateways to their forts such as Raigad. The
inscription mentioned earlier is an important one, crediting Sidi Surur
Khan (Yaqut Khan II) with carrying out repairs to the fort and adding
two gateway bastions in the year 1700.28 Another epigraph across from
this one continues the text five years later, and mentions that the two
bastions were completed in 1705 by the efforts of Sidi Surur, suggesting
that the work took five years.29 These bastions, called hulmuk,30 flank
the gateway, above which is the naqqārkhāneh, or drummers’ chamber.
Ceremonial drums and reed instruments, markers of power limited to
royal favor, were played here to announce important visitors.
The bastion that is just north of the entrance barbican has three large
canons atop it. The largest is named the Kallalabangadi, on account of
its being made of rings fused together (bangadi literally means bangle in
Marathi and Konkani). This technique of producing guns in small forged
iron sections that were then welded together was used in the sixteenth
century, and thus any Maratha attribution for the gun, which would be
much later, can be safely dismissed. The other two guns on the same
bastion are the Chavdi and the Landa Kasam,31 but any explanation for
27 Sohoni 2018.
28 Kadiri 1967, pages 70-71.
29 Ibid., pages 71-72.
30 The Persian “h-l-m-k burj” has been translated as hulmuk-bastions, which refer 6a. (opposite, top) Entrance landing.
to the bastions flanking the main gate; the only other mentions of hulmuk are
in Ghosh 1965 page 59, in which a hulmuk of the gate of the qasba of Malkhed 6b. (opposite, bottom) Inside the
in Gulbarga is mentioned, and in Epigraphia Indica 1960, page 76, in which the entrance landing.
etymology of the word from Indic languages is described. 7a-b. (above) Examples of canons at
31 Deshpande et al. 2011, pages 683-693. the fort.
Further through the gate on the left, there is a small open area in which
stands a shrine believed to have been instrumental in the construction
of the fort. This shrine is of Pir Panchayatan or Panjattan Pak (the Pure
Five). The shrine commemorates the five key figures in Shi’i Islam: the
Prophet Muhammad, his daughter Fatima, his son-in-law Ali, and his
grandsons Hasan and Husain.33 One of the stories regarding the shrine
states that a trunk containing models of panjās (metal palm-shaped
models, the five fingers being of significance) washed ashore and was
then buried by Mirza Ali and Qalb-i Ali, the two earliest Nizam Shahi
commanders.34 The popular narrative today is that five shipwrecked
people were given proper burials on the site before the fortifications were
built. To the right of the tomb is an opening with the tughra motif of a
lion carved in its lintel, featuring a Shi’i proclamation of faith, the Nad-i
Ali quatrain. The Nizam Shahs were staunch Shi’is after the conversion
of Burhan Nizam Shah I (reg. 1509–1553) in the early sixteenth century
and it is possible that the relief is from that period, as the Sidis were
Sunni and would not have commissioned it. Shah
Tahir Husaini, who once was vested with the port of
Danda-Rajpuri and the island of Janjira (mentioned
earlier in the section on history), converted Burhan
Nizam Shah I to Shi’i Islam sometime around 1537.35
Beyond that is the great shell of the palace that was built under Sidi Surur
Khan in the first decade of the eighteenth century. The floors and roofs
of the building have all collapsed, and what remains are the outer walls
built from well-dressed basalt. Situated on a high plinth that formed an
inhabitable basement storey, the building above had at least four storeys.
The floors are articulated on the walls by horizontal bands of masonry
marking the divisions between them. The basement storey has an arcade
of ogee arches that would have formed a long gallery. The actual entrance
to the upper building is on the first floor, marked by an arched doorway,
and the windows on this floor are no more than ventilator openings. The
upper two storeys have larger windows. Now commonly imagined as a
large multistoried court building where justice was publicly dispensed, it is
clear that this would have been a residential palace.
Past this palace is the other water cistern, perfectly round and surrounded
by the ruins and plinths of the Nawab’s palace and women’s quarters,
barely any of which survive. In 1860, a large fire burnt more than half
of the buildings inside the fort.36 The Nawabs of Janjira moved to their
new palace, Ahmad Ganj, soon after its completion in 1904, and the old
palace in the fort fell into disuse.
The fort of Janjira, though largely built in the early eighteenth century,
was unaffected by the developments in military architecture in Europe,
despite sustained contact with the English and the Portuguese. Perhaps
because of its unique context as an island with shallow waters, notions
of planning like trace italienne (star fort or bastion fort in common
parlance) were never implemented. While the Portuguese and English
were building forts with large projecting triangular bastions that covered
each other, the fort of Janjira still followed the old pattern of a round
medieval enceinte with towers that did not project much outside the
over profile of the fort. The highest point on the island was protected
by a second line of ramparts, and provided protection against fire that
emanated from guns on large military vessels. Such ships could not ply
on the eastern side of the island because of its shallow depths.
CONCLUSION
The island fort of Janjira has never been conquered. Subject to at least
three major building campaigns, it was militarily upgraded to keep pace
with the changes in technology. Its natural location deterred attacks from
the land or the sea, aided by the bravery of the men who defended it.
The present form of the fort is largely from the eighteenth century and
is a powerful symbol of resistance to all powers, colonial, imperial and
provincial, which tried to claim it. It is one of the physical markers of
the military and political prowess of the Sidis, a community otherwise
largely marginalized. Janjira is a palimpsest of almost five hundred years
of the history of the Deccan coast.
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