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FLORENCE

THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

florence.welcomemagazine.it JUNE 2023 #60

ALL YOU
CAN DO
IN THE CITY
EVENTS | SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS

PARTNER
Welcome Smart Network
MAGAZINES | GUIDES | MAPS | WEBSITES
DISCOVER MORE
Florence June 2023

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“I am Andrea Jarach, editor of the Welcome Magazines, periodicals

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Editor tips

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with the upward trend in tourism, last year we added Verona to the

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traditional editions of Venice, Florence, Turin and have expanded 22 SHOPPING

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Fashion & Design


our Milan magazine to the Lombardy region.

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At Brandimarte, the

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Andrea Jarach

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with a Florentine spirit.


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by Global Blue. Welcome to Italy, discover and enjoy!”


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Welcome Smart Network ADO
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Lorenzo the Magnificent

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COVER IMAGE

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Contents
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FR

VIA DEL
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D V LLA
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Riccardi and the greatest


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IU Sacro Cuore R
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3 TOP IN TOWN 28 TOP BRANDS


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» MAP PAGE 46
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HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH THE WELCOME MAGAZINE

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ


In the centre of Florence, a few steps from
FLORENCE
florence.welcomemagazine.it
the Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the
creative heart of Florentine designer Angela PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL
Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano.
plastic jewellery items, much loved by T: +39 02 25063100
internationl customers, are genuinely unique info@proedimedia.com
florence.welcomemagazine.it
pieces of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo
SS. Apostoli boutique it is also possible PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
to purchase a selection of clothing items Andrea Jarach
and accessories that complete the brand’s andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com
collections. www.angelacaputi.com
MANAGING EDITOR
Alessandra Finzi
redazione@proedimedia.com
ART DIRECTION

RINASCENTE Joy Lacanlale


joy.lacanlale@proedimedia.com
In the heart of the city, in Piazza della
Repubblica, Rinascente offers the best CONTRIBUTORS
of cosmetics, fashion, food and design, Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia
with the addition of a new “store of craft” G. Hassmüller, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting
(ground floor) with a focus on hand- Congressi, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli
made products following the tradition, ICONOGRAPHY
in perfect harmony with Florentine’s Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock
identity. And there’s also the opportunity
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to enjoy typical tasty dishes while
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An artisan workshop where you can Sieva Carolo, Daniele Misrachi,
Silvia Mosconi, Rachele Renna
purchase a memory of your trip to Italy. In
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this laboratory shop, the Raffaellis create
their works with mastery and passion, ADMINISTRATION
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plates, then printing them on precious
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MARIA NOVELLA
REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 152, 17 JULY 2019
Under a nineteenth-century vault, an EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455

abundance of perfumes, soaps and DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH

PRINTED BY LAZZATI INDUSTRIA GRAFICA SRL - CASORATE SEMPIONE (VA)


cosmetics are to be found. Those wishing
to immerse themselves in an experience of Although the Publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in
the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to
yesteryear can find ancient preparations, apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published
in the next issue.
herbal teas and herbalist products, typical
The Publisher makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
specialties and liqueurs alongside antique information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences
scientific materials and unusual gifts such arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole
or in part is strictly prohibited.
as perfume diffusers for the home, wax
products, accessories and decorative items. EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS
THE WELCOME MAGAZINE È IN DISTRIBUZIONE NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE,
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1 DUOMO AND CUPOLA 3 CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle
Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in
in Florence was the largest Christian church the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four the square are the Fountain of Neptune
in the world. Today the religious building, main components of the complex of and a series of statues of Renaissance
the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, origin, representing one of the most
Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of red and green marble, the majestic important sculptural cycles in the world.
dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. square-based bell tower, designed by The most famous is certainly
Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy,
Dome, still the tallest construction in the no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from whereas the original is conserved in the
city, is a symbol known all over the world. where you can enjoy extraordinary Galleria dell’Accademia).
views of Brunelleschi’s Dome.
2 BATTISTERO 5 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI
The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is 4 PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA One of the most famous museums in
characterised by an octagonal plan, lined AND PALAZZO VECCHIO the world on account of its extraordinary
with a dome of eight segments, covered This is the central square of Florence, the collections of ancient sculptures and
by a pyramid roof. The outside is seat of civil power and social heart of the paintings (from the Middle Ages to the
decorated with white marble from city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio modern age). The Gallery occupies the first
Carrara and green marble from Prato, (the seat of the Municipal Council of and second floors of the large building
characteristics of the Florentine Florence), the splendid Loggia della erected between 1560 and 1580 based
architecture of the Romanesque period. Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, on a project by Giorgio Vasari.

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m ag a z i ne. i t 3
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6 PONTE VECCHIO it then stretches along the Arno, over the 9 PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO
The official date of foundation of the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo This is the most famous and appreciated
current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great panoramic point in Florence, with its
For the entire Middle Ages the bridge Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On views seen all over the world in million of
hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and display along the Corridor are over 1000 postcards and reproductions. The design
butchers’ shops, who used the river to paintings. of the square dates back to 1869, when
dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to
end of the 16th century, however, when 8 PALAZZO PITTI the city’s most famous artist, the square has
it became the “noble” zone of the city, the AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s
goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, The symbol of wealth and power, the most famous sculptures.
and they have been there uninterruptedly building was inhabited by the Medici,
to this day. then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after 10 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE
the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a
7 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO original architecture dates back to the 15th medieval religious building situated at
The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first one of the highest panoramic points in
connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at Florence. The most spectacular access is
Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens gained via the monumental flight of steps.
entrance to which is at the beginning of are one of the most important examples of The outside of the church is decorated
the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; Italian-style gardens in the world. with green and white marble, typical of

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Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, order. Giotto painted some of his great 14 SANTO SPIRITO
which is unusual and of great beauty, masterpieces here and the French writer A point of reference of the Augustinian
boasts one of the city’s best conserved Stendhal experienced that profound order. The church has given its name to
original floors. artistic agitation that has been known the entire surrounding neighbourhood,
since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of
11 MERCATO CENTRALE The basilica contains the monumental Renaissance architecture, the church
Built at the end of the 19th century, the sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and was the last great project by Filippo
Central Market is a building of a certain Machiavelli. Brunelleschi.
architectural merit. The project was
entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the 13 SANTA MARIA NOVELLA 15 SAN LORENZO
architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele A point of reference of the Dominican One of the “great basilicas” of Florence,
in Milan, who was inspired by order, the church, with its elegant façade founded, according to the tradition, by
Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in
reference for informal but good quality synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance the 4th century AD. Its current appearance,
cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by however, is the result of the last major
Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino reconstruction work that took place in the
12 SANTA CROCE Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo 15th century at the wishes of the Medici
One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, Uccello. and under the direction of the great
a point of reference of the Franciscan architect Filippo Brunelleschi.

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m ag a z i ne. i t 5
WELCOME | LANDMARK

PALAZZO PITTI MUSEUMS


A RENAISSANCE MASTERPIECE

A palace for three dynasties, this extraordinary


building is located in the Oltrarno, at the foot of
Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are
the park of the palace, a genuine open-air museum,
take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti currently
contains four different museums.

Treasures of the Grand Dukes


(ground floor and mezzanine)
Conserved in what were the summer apartments
of the Medici family are the precious “Treasures of
the Medici”: vases made of semi-precious stones,
rock crystals, ambers and ivories, the exceptional
collection of Oriental porcelains; there is also the
silverware of the so-called “Treasure of Salzburg”, an
important collection of jewels created between the
17th and 20th centuries, and a significant section
dedicated to contemporary jewellery.

Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments


(noble floor)
The 14 sumptuously furnished rooms of the Royal
Apartments offer a fascinating blend of styles telling
of the daily lives and tastes of the various periods
and families that lived there. The “Quadreria”, the
Picture Gallery, established between the 18th and
19th centuries by the Lorena family, includes the
world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael,
as well as paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio
and Rubens.

Gallery of Modern Art (second floor)


Today the sumptuous environments that were once
the residence of the Lorena family house paintings
and sculptures, mostly Italian, from Neoclassicism to
the 1930s, with an important group of paintings by
the Macchiaioli school.

Museum of Fashion and Costume


(Palazzina della Meridiana)
This museum possesses a stock of six thousand items,
including ancient clothing, theatrical costumes and
fashion accessories from the 18th century to today, in
addition to underwear, jewels and costume jewellery.
Included among the costumes are the 16th-century
burial clothes of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Eleonor of
Toledo and their son.
Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti.it
© ARKANTOSTOCK/123RF.COM

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w w w.wh e re it a lia .c o m / fl ore nce 7
INDEX
WELCOME | LANDMARK

About Ponte Vecchio

© PANI GARMYDER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
It is one of the undisputed

F
symbols of Florence and, irst of all, it must be said that protruding over the river.
as such, is one of the most Ponte Vecchio (literally “Old Then, grafted onto the high part of the
photographed sites in the Bridge”) is indeed “old”. The bridge is the Vasari Corridor, the strategic
first to identify a ford in the passageway that was built at the wishes
world. Here are some details so Arno were the Etruscans. of Cosimo de’ Medici in 1565 to connect
you can get to know it better. The Roman founders of the the administrative buildings to his private
village of “Florentia” built a wood and stone residence, without exposing the sovereign to
bridge there, the forerunner of the current any danger.
one, which dates back to around 1345.
Since then, with all the various restorations A UNIQUE HISTORY
and modifications, this passage across the The change of identity of the zone during
Arno has remained in its place, actively the Renaissance is due precisely to the
participating in the history of the city. Vasari Corridor. The traditional shops of
greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers, who
© STEFY MORELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ORIGINAL ARCHITECTURE had a preference for the bridge on account


The bridge is characterised by a solution of the ease with which they could throw
with lowered arches, never previously their waste into the river, were evicted en
seen, which makes it particularly stable bloc: it was preferred to offer the sovereign
and its profile unmistakable. From the very goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops, which
beginning, it was understood to be a natural were more appropriate for his gaze (and
continuation of the road, and so it has his nose), and they have continued their
shops and porticos along both sides facing presence there ever since for the pleasure
towards the centre, each with a single shop of tourists. Since then, Ponte Vecchio has
window closed by strong wooden doors, been an assiduous witness – and sometimes
and often with a picturesque backroom a protagonist – of the history of the city:

8  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
considering it a source of great pride, that sometimes you need only turn into an Canottieri Firenze, as well as bringing
Mussolini invited Hitler there in 1938, opening unknown alley to get away from the bustling together sporting rowers, is a point of
up new larger, more panoramic windows for crowds and enjoy a carefree stroll. reference for the activities that take place on
his benefit. One rather romanticised version the banks of the river. Today, the Circle also
claims that Hitler himself, cherishing the UNDER THE BRIDGE offers a stupendous location for aperitifs,
memory of such beauty, would decide to Finally, you should know that there is also lunches and dinners.
save the bridge from the terrible bombing life under the bridge: the historic Società
campaigns of 1944. Unfortunately, the
historical reconstruction seems to prove
that this merit cannot be ascribed to the
German dictator.

LUXURY SHOPPING
For more than four hundred years, Ponte
Vecchio has therefore been inhabited

© FEDERICO MAGONIO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
by artisans creating admirable gold and
silver objects. Still today, this remains the
commercial vocation of the neighbourhood,
which is nevertheless not lacking in other
luxury trades, starting with artisan leather
goods. Obviously, the accesses and areas
surrounding the Bridge, between via Por
Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri
on one side, and between Borgo San Jacopo
and via de’ Guicciardini on the other, are
also swarming with points of interest and
high-quality shops. Bear in mind, however, Vasari Corridor

PH © RAMANA16 / 123RF.COM

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m ag a z i ne. i t 9
INDEX
WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

DISCOVER
AND ENJOY
Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian
traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition,
we bring you this month’s unmissable dates.

PH © ELABIALKOWSKAOKNOSTUDIO

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WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

PALAZZO STROZZI, UNTIL 18 JUNE


LAST
PALAZZO STROZZI DIALOGUES DAYS
WITH CONTEMPORARY ART
EXHIBITION The spring event at Palazzo Strozzi offers a selection of works by
leading international contemporary artists, exploring the main research of the
last four decades through a constellation of works that will be displayed in all the
spaces of Palazzo Strozzi, from the Piano Nobile to the Strozzina, with a special
PH © ELABIALKOWSKAOKNOSTUDIO

new installation for the Renaissance courtyard. Between painting, sculpture,


installation, photography, video and performance, the project enhances the
dialogue between Palazzo Strozzi and contemporary art, offering visitors a path
to discover the great stars of global art of recent years together with a look at the
younger generations.

Reaching for the Stars. From Maurizio Cattelan


to Lynette Yiadom-Boakye
Palazzo Strozzi. Piazza Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.org

PH © ELABIALKOWSKAOKNOSTUDIO

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 11
WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

MUSEO NOVECENTO, UNTIL 13 SEPTEMBER


▼ INVESTIGATION INTO THE ORIGINS
OF TIME AND SPACE
ART The title of the exhibition recalls the famous, though
shocking, painting of Gustave Courbet and it gives a different
interpretation that views Eros as the generating force of
human life and outer space. The exhibition includes a series
of drawings and small sculptures aimed at questioning the
genesis of time and space based on two different dimensions:
the past, the birth of the Earth, and the future of the universe,
immeasurable and unpredictable.

Lucio Fontana. L’origine du monde


Museo Novecento. Piazza del Duomo, 8
www.museonovecento.it
IMAGES © FONDAZIONE LUCIO FONATANA BY SIAE 2023

SEVERAL LOCATIONS, UNTIL 24 SEPTEMBER


▲ KAMI PAINTER OF INVISIBILITY
CONTEMPORARY ART “Light, Gaze, Presence” is an exhibition
by the Iranian-American artist Y.Z. Kami with a selection of works
exhibited for the first time in Florence in some of the city’s symbolic
places: Museo Novecento, Museo di Palazzo Vecchio, Museo degli
Innocenti and, exceptionally, in the millenary Abbazia di San Miniato
al Monte. The project is a journey into the pictorial universe of the
artist: his production focuses mainly on the creation of portraits
of women and men captured in close-up, often with their eyes
closed and within neutral backgrounds that leave visible only a few
details apart from their faces. His rarefied painting has the ability
to draw the viewer in, arousing intense feelings, such as a sense of
placid contemplation bordering on transcendence.

Y.Z. KAMI. Light, Gaze, Presence


Several locations: Museo Novecento,
Museo di Palazzo Vecchio, Museo degli Innocenti,
Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte. www.museonovecento.it

IVORY MASTERPIECES
SCULPTURE Rethinking the exhibition itinerary,
improving conservation methods and enhancing the
works on display: this was the aim of the complete
renovation of the Sala degli Avori in the Museo
Nazionale del Bargello, which alone covers a
time span of fifteen centuries, from rare Etruscan
and Roman objects to 19th century artefacts. This
is undoubtedly a collection that in terms of the
abundance and prestige can be considered in line with
some of the great European museums, such as the
PH © ANTONIO VISCIDO

South Kensington Museum in London and the Musée


de Cluny in Paris.

Sala degli Avori


Museo Nazionale del Bargello.
Via del Proconsolo, 4. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it

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WELCOME | OUT OF TOWN

FLORENCE TO RAVENNA, MAY TO OCTOBER


WELCOME ABOARD THE DANTE’S TRAIN
SPECIAL TOUR All aboard the Treno di Dante for a day full of
exploring. The ride starts at Firenze Santa Maria Novella Train
Station and visitors are onboard the train for a total of three
hours, breaking up the journey by stopping at six towns along
the way towards the Apennines. Only on Saturdays and Sundays
visitors can take the heritage train from Florence to Ravenna
stopping at the “Most beautiful villages in Italy” to experience
culture, museums and taste new cuisine and while onboard
viewing beautiful countryside. Pay extra for organized excursions
or walk around the village on your own to experience everything
the villages have to offer.

Treno di Dante
Florence to Ravenna
To see the itinerary: https://iltrenodidante.it/en/le-tappe
To ckect the timetable: https://iltrenodidante.it/en/orari

1 Renowned for the highest 4 Brisighella is a lively town,


concentration of works of art in steeped in tradition and with
the world, Florence marks the some incredibly architecture and
beginning of this journey in stages scenery: ancient narrow streets,
across the Apennines to Ravenna. sections of the town’s walls and
staircases carved out of gypsum.

2 Under the House of Hapsburg- 5 Faenza’s history has always


Lorraine in Tuscany, Borgo San been inextricably linked to its
Lorenzo became the most ceramics, especially majolica
important centre in the whole (it is home to one of the most
Mugello area. The town is ideal important ceramics museums in
for nature lovers. the world!). Founded by the
Romans, the city – so close to the
Appennine foothills - became an
important centre of Neoclassicism
in Europe.

3 Aso known as “Castle”, 6 Three times capital – Western


Marradi is a popular place of rest Roman Empire (402-476), Ostrogothic
for wayfarers and today suggests Kingdom (493-553) and Byzantine
two walks in particular: from the Exarchate (554-751), Ravenna is a
centre of the town to the Rocca short distance from the Adriatic Sea
di Castiglionchio and to the and has 8 monuments which are
Hermitage of Gamogna, an old UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Dante
monastic complex founded by Alighieri was buried here after
San Pier Damiani in 1053. spending the last three years of his life,
from 1318 to 1321, and this is the final
destination for the Treno di Dante.

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 13
WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS


JANUARY EASTER
CAVALCATA DEI MAGI SCOPPIO DEL CARRO
A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany (6 A popular secular and religious tradition
January) when Three Wise Men brought gifts that dates back to the time of the Crusades.
of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the Baby A procession with percussionists and
Jesus. A celebration that takes place wearing flag-wavers in historical costumes, city
splendid fifteenth-century costumes. officials and representatives of the clergy,

PH © G. MONASTA
accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic
tower from the church of SS. Apostoli
PH © ELENA.KATKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is


set alight.

TROFEO MARZOCCO
APRIL-MAY
GIARDINO DELL’IRIS (city wards), represented by jockeys and
The iris flower is the symbol of the city: their horses. It commemorates an ancient
actually, the red flower on the Florentine dispute, which took place around 1200
coat of arms is an iris and not a lily! The in Fucecchio (50 km from Florence).
garden was opened in 1957 and since then, The audience has been waiting for this
hundreds of different species from all over moment for the whole year also to attend
the world have been planted, some of or participate to the historical parade,
CAVALCATA DEI MAGI
which are very rare and ancient. Currently, performed by over a thousand people
this wonderful place next to Piazzale wearing medieval costumes. www.
FEBRUARY Michelangelo houses over 1,500 varieties paliodifucecchio.it
ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE of iris, which come in a variety of colors and
shapes and bloom in late April and early CANTINE APERTE
ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE The “Cantine Aperte” even is the ideal
Celebration of the last heir of the Medici May. www.societaitalianairis.com
experience for wine enthusiasts and much
dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in WISTERIA BLOOMING AT VILLA BARDINI more… During the last weekend of May,
Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures Four hectares of woodland, garden and most of the Italian regions open their
including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine orchard flanked by the city’s medieval walls, cellars to the public and different activities,
Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy located between Costa San Giorgio and combining wine and entertainment, are
is all due to her. To mark the occasion, Borgo San Niccolò. The Garden integrates arranged. If you’re food lover, you might
on 18 February some municipal museums the Italian-style garden, with its magnificent like to know that many wineries will
allow access free of charge. Baroque staircase; the English-style provide food trucks and organize cooking
TASTE FIRENZE woodland which, with its exotic elements; classes, which is the perfect chance to
An annual fait at Fortezza da Basso to explore the agricultural park with a new orchard learn how to make regional specialties
new flavors from across the world speaking and splendid wisteria pergola. www. while sipping a glass of good wine. www.
to international vendors about the history villabardini.it movimentoturismovino.it
of each food. Appreciate the blend of
FESTA DI SAN ZANOBI
international cuisine and Italian dishes and
widen your horizons by understanding just MAY Each year, the town of Scandicci (30 minutes
from Florence) celebrates Festa di San
how Italy is a combination of historical and
PALIO DELLE CONTRADE IN FUCECCHIO Zanobi to honor its patron saint. The festival
modern elements. taste.pittimmagine.com
One of the most awaited events in Tuscany includes several religious events, such as
as it involves no less than 12 Contrade the pilgrimage to the nearby cave of San
Zanobi. Visitors can also enjoy a historical
MARCH parade through the city center, complete
NEW YEAR’S PROCESSION with entertainment and historical costumes.
Florence celebrates the New Year twice In the Acciaiolo Park, witness a medieval
a year: on January 1, with the rest of the field with activities that range from dances
world, and on March 25. This is due to New to pony rides.
Year’s Day coinciding with the Annunciation
TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI
between the tenth century and 1749. The
A contest between historical groups of
Feast of the Annunciation is a celebration
flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai
that brings Christians on a pilgrimage to the
degli Uffizi di Firenze”, and takes place
Basilica dell’Annunciazione. To celebrate
on 1 May in Piazza della Signoria.
the event, the people of Florence hold a
procession through the city with traditional PALIO DEL BALUARDO
costumes, music, and flags. You can see the A crossbow shooting competition on the
procession as it moves from the Palazzo di third Sunday of the month to commemorate
Parte Guelfa to the Basilica dell’Annunziata. GIARDINO DELL’IRIS the birth of the Florentine Republic on 16th

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WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

May 1527, the date when the Medici were neighbourhoods: White from Santo Spirito,
expelled from Florence. The competition is Red from Santa Maria Novella, Green from
held at the Bastione known as the Fonte San Giovanni and Blue from Santa Croce.
della Ginevra.

LA FIORITA
A Florentine tradition celebrating the
JULY
burning at the stake of Dominican preacher FESTA DI SANT’ANNA

PH © G. MONASTA
Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial A secular and religious festival held near
figure in the city’s history. Every 23 May the church of Orsanmichele, in which the
wreath of flowers is laid on the plaque figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the
dedicated to him in Piazza della Signoria, city, is venerated. The event is celebrated
after which rose petals are thrown into the 26 July.
Arno from Ponte Vecchio.
FESTA DI SANT’ANNA
AUGUST
MAY-JUNE siege of the Ostrogoths in 406 AD,
FESTA DI SAN LORENZO an event that marked the triumph of
FESTA MEDIEVALE IN MALMANTILE It takes place in the morning of every 10 Christianity in Florence.
Each year, the walled village of Malmantile August, with a “Historical Procession of the
(30 km from Florence) designed by Florentine Republic” from the Piazzetta
Brunelleschi relives the ancient past with di Parte Guelfa through the streets of NOVEMBER
a unique historical commemoration. The the historic centre to the Basilica di San AUTUMNIA IN FIGLIENE VALDARNO
Florentine town fills up with jugglers, Lorenzo. In the evening, in Piazza San The most eagerly awaited event of the
minstrels, acrobats and knights, that all Lorenzo. Valdarno autumn takes place at Figline
together succeed in recreating the typical Valdarno (1 hour from Florence). The fair
life of the medieval village. is dedicated to agriculture, food and the
www.festamedioevalemalmantile.it SEPTEMBER environment and offers food stands, tastings
and typical products.
CARRO MATTO
This is one of the great traditions of
Renaissance Florence. The “Carro Matto” DECEMBER
is a genuine masterpiece of engineering,
with around 2000 fragile fiaschi (the classic FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI
PH © ALESSANDRA BARUCCHIERI

Tuscan blown-glass bottles, protected by An ancient folkloristic event in which the


straw) stacked in a pyramid in a miraculous “Procession of the Florentine Republic”
balancing act. In the afternoon of the last addresses the civil and religious authorities
Saturday of September it enters Florence to wish them good luck during the
hauled by oxen of the Chianina breed. Christmas festivities.

FESTA DELLA RIFICOLONA CHRISTMAS GERMAN MARKET


The origins of this much loved feast IN SANTA CROCE
date back to the 17th century, when the Huts and wooden stalls selling delicious Italian
FESTA DI SAN ZANOBI many people who had come into the city and German titbits, decorations and hand-
with their families from the surrounding crafted products. Street food, Italian and in
countryside lit up the itinerary with some cases international. An event that is now
JUNE lanterns of various kinds, known as very dear to Florentines and also intriguing
A CENA DA MESSER GIOVANNI “rificolone”. The feast on 7 September for tourists and the curious, held in one of the
Each June, Via Bocaccio in Certaldo (30 km begins at 8pm in Piazza Santa Felicita, city’s main (and most beautiful) squares.
from Florence) transforms into a medieval passes through Piazza della Signoria and
dinner. Large tables are set up along arrives in Piazza Santissima Annunziata
the street to recreate the atmosphere of for the final festival with music and the
PH © A G BAXTER / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

a medieval meal. Enjoy entertainment awarding of a prize to the most beautiful


throughout dinner, such as sword duels, fire “rificolona”.
eating, juggling, acrobatics, and fireworks.
FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE
DEL CALCIO STORICO
OCTOBER
Every 24 June, this is a contest that has FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA
taken place in Piazza Santa Croce for 600 At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the
years on the day of St. John the Baptist, the ceremony is held on 8 October offering
patron saint of the city. Highly competitive, candles in the crypt. According to the
it combines football, rugby and wrestling legend it was thanks to the miraculous
and is held as the culmination of a intercession of Saint Reparata that the
tournament between teams from the city’s Florentines succeeded in repelling the CHRISTMAS MARKET

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 15
WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

PALAZZO VECCHIO
► DISCOVERING THE SECRETS OF
FLORENCE
EXPERIENCE Guided tours of Palazzo Vecchio allow you to

PH © BRADLEY GRZESIAK (CC BY-SA 2.5)


visit a series of particularly precious rooms, including the
staircase built at the behest of Gualtieri di Brienne and carved
into the thickness of the wall, the Studiolo di Francesco I de’
Medici, a refined treasure chest “of rare and precious things”,
and the Scrittoio of his father Cosimo I (better known as
the “Tesoretto”), and finally the imposing truss structure that
supports the coffered ceiling of the Salone dei Cinquecento.

Percorsi Segreti. Palazzo Vecchio, Salone dei Cinquecento,


Studiolo di Francesco I. musefirenze.it/attivita/percorsi-segreti/

PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI, UNTIL 5 SEPTEMBER


THE MASTER OF ITALIAN BAROQUE
ART “An amazing painter, made by God to please princes”: that’s
how Granduca Cosimo III de’ Medici defined Luca Giordano, one
of the most virtuous and prolific artists of Italian Baroque. The
painter left testimony of his works in the vaults he frescoed for the
Galleria degli Specchi and the Biblioteca Riccardiana in Palazzo
Medici Riccardi, the first large residence of Medici family, then
acquired by Riccardi family in the mid-seventeenth century. The
exhibition focuses on the relationship between the Neapolitan
artist and the greatest Florentine families and it features a selection
of nearly 50 masterpieces, some of which belong to the National
Gallery and Italian museums such as the Uffizi Gallery, as well as to
private collections never seen before in Florence.

Luca Giordano. Maestro barocco a Firenze


Palazzo Medici Riccardi
www.palazzomediciriccardi.it

GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA
PH © GUIDEO COZZI

► THE NEW GALLERY


OF PLASTER CASTS
ART A true jewel, the Gipsoteca of the Galleria dell’Accademia
has recently reopened to the public with a new look, after two
and a half years of renovation and fitting-out work. The plaster
casts, restored and cleaned, are enhanced by the light powder
blue of the walls, so much so that they seem alive with their
stories. The collection consists of over 400 works, including
busts, bas-reliefs, monumental sculptures, original models mostly
by Lorenzo Bartolini, one of the most important Italian sculptors
of the 19th century.
The Gipsoteca is one of the pieces in the renovation process of
the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence and Beyond the David
is the title with which the new setup was presented, underlining
the fact that the museum is not only a treasure trove of
Michelangelo’s sculpture, which is loved all over the world, but it
is also a witness to important collections related to Florentine art.

16  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

FROM GALILEO TOWARDS


THE MODERN SCIENCE
SCIENCE Don’t miss a visit to the Museo Galileo, an extraordinary
collection of scientific instruments collected over nearly three
centuries by the Medici and Lorraine families, including the only
original telescopes by Galileo Galilei in the world. This is a precious
testimony to the progressive improvement of observation and
measurement instruments that favoured the enormous advancement
of scientific knowledge in the 16th and 17th centuries, a decisive
contribution to the affirmation of modern science.

Museo Galileo. Piazza dei Giudici, 1.


www.museogalileo.it

WINE TOURS AND MUST-DO


EXPERIENCES IN THE TUSCAN
COUNTRYSIDE
EXPERIENCE The spring season is definitely the
best time of the year to relax and savor the beauty
of the Tuscan countryside. These places offer a
wide selection of experiences that combine leisure
and entertainment. For example, if you are a wine
or truffle enthusiast, you absolutely need to book
a visit to the historic cellars of Montepulciano,
as well as have lunch in the vineyards and wine
tastings in San Gimignano, where you can also go
truffle hunting in the woods and then have a truffle
lunch. Alternatively, if you love animals, the best
choice for you is taking horse-riding tours through
the vineyards in San Gimignano or on the Sienese
hills, followed by a picnic or a wine tasting, to your
liking.

If you want to live a once-in-a-lifetime experience,


going trekking or taking a walk with the sweetest
alpacas in the Florentine hills is exactly what you
are looking for. The experience is suitable for both
adults and children, even to those who are not
much of a walker.

On the other hand, if you are interested in something


more dynamic and adventurous, you absolutely
shouldn’t miss the quad excursions arranged in
some fairytale landscapes, such as the Chianti hills
or the Maremma. After the ride, you are also offered
a lunch with grilled meat and good wine or wine
tasting, depending on the package you choose.

www.holidoit.com

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 17
WELCOME | WHAT TO DO

PH © STEFANO CASATI
Giardino Bardini

PH © VITA48/123RF.COM
Giardino di Boboli Giardino delle Rose

A DAY IN THE GREEN HEART OF FLORENCE


The month of April is the best time of the authentic oasis in the heart of Florence as collection of sculptures by Jean-Michel
year to visit the numerous and gorgeous it is situated on a hillside above the city’s Folon, a Belgian artist. In this oasis of peace,
gardens the city of Florence has to offer. historic center. The garden is renowned for visitors can escape from the chaos of the
the terrace it features, which offers stunning city, strolling around the gardens and
Located on a hill behind Pitti Palace, which
views of the city, as well as the iconic enjoying the fragrance of the flowers and
was the residence of the Medici family, The
wisteria pergola that takes visitors into a the amazing views below them.
Boboli Garden (Giardino di Boboli) is one of
passage where they can live a romantic
the greatest open-air museums in the city Giardino di Boboli - behind Palazzo Pitti,
experience while admiring the breathtaking
and one of the finest examples of Italian- www.uffizi.it
landscape of Florence around them.
style gardens. It is home to a wide variety of Giardino Bardini - between Ponte Vecchio
trees, fountains and sculptures and its layout The Rose Garden (Giardino delle Rose) is and Uffizi Gallery, www.villabardini.it
inspired many European Royal gardens, located just below Piazzale Michelangelo, Giardino delle Rose - below and to the
such as Versailles. on a hillside overlooking the city. The left side of Piazzale Michelangelo,
garden houses a wide selection of roses, www.ilgiardinodellerose.it
The Bardini Garden (Giardino Bardini) is an
about 400 species, together with a

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO © CEZARYW/123RF.COM

FLORENCE AT YOUR FEET


EXPERIENCE Piazzale Michelangelo is one of the most
charming belvederes in Florence, an unmissable terrace
overlooking the city, an essential destination for tourists and
Florentines alike. The panorama to be enjoyed from here is
breathtaking, as it embraces the entire city, from Forte Belvedere
to Santa Croce, along the Lungarni and the Ponte Vecchio, and
then the Duomo with its dome and Giotto’s bell tower, Palazzo
Vecchio, and beyond, the hills to the north of the city. In the
square dedicated to Michelangelo there are bronze copies of his
famous works: the David and the four allegories of the Medici
Chapels of San Lorenzo, the originals of which are obviously
conserved in the city. For a guaranteed wow effect, go there
at sunset. You can get there by bus or on foot, going along the
Lungarno, or from Piazza Poggi, by climbing up the charming
Rampe del Poggi, a combination of steps, grottos and fountains.

18  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
2023 EVENTS IN ITALY Find the next year calendar on florence.welcomemagazine.it

© VALERIO PENNICINO © TANIAVOLOBUEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM


© ECSTK22/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© ENNEVI © SIMONE MIZZOTTI © MARCO BRESCIA - TEATRO ALLA SCALA

© ROBERTO VICARIO © ENRICO FIORESE © PETER SZAKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

JUNE SEPTEMBER NOVEMBER


11/6 | Mugello (Tuscany) | Moto GP. Gran 3-9/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1. 1-5/11 | Turin | Paratissima (19th edition).
Premio d’Italia. www.motogp.com Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com www.paratissima.it
13-17/6 | Brescia-Rome-Brescia | 4-24/9 | Milan and Turin | MITO 2-5/11 | Verona | Fieracavalli (125th edition)
Mille Miglia 2022. www.1000miglia.it SettembreMusica. mitosettembremusica.it www.fieracavalli.it
15-18/6 | Milan-Monza | MIMO Milano Monza 6-10/9 | Mantua (Lombardy) | Festivaletteratura 3-5/11 | Turin | Artissima (30th edition).
Motor Show. www.milanomonza.com (27th edition). www.festivaletteratura.it www.artissima.art
16-20/6 | Milan | Milano Moda Uomo. 9-17/9 | Venice | The Venice Glass Week. 7-12/11 | Milan | EICMA. International
www.cameramoda.it theveniceglassweek.com Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition.
16/6-8/9 | Verona | Arena di Verona 10/9 | Misano (Emilia Romagna) | Moto GP di San www.eicma.it
Opera Festival (100th edition). Martino e della Riviera di Rimini. www.motogp.com 15-19/11 | Milan | BookCity Milano.
www.arena.it 15-17/9 | Florence | Fragranze. bookcitymilano.it
fragranze.pittimmagine.com 17-25/11 | Venice | Teatro La Fenice -
JULY 15-18/9 | Terni (Umbria) | Umbria Jazz. Opening of the Opera and Ballet season
2/7 | Siena | Palio di Siena-Palio www.umbriajazz.it www.teatrolafenice.it
di Provenzano. www.ilpalio.org 19-25/9 | Milan | Milano Fashion Week 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute.
7-16/7 | Perugia | Umbria Jazz. Women’s. www.cameramoda.it venice.welcomemagazine.it
www.umbriajazz.it 21-26/9 | Genoa | International Boat Show.
15/7 | Venice | Festa del Redentore. www.salonenautico.com DECEMBER
venice.welcomemagazine.it 30/9-8/10 | Trieste | Barcolana (55th edition). 2-10/12 | Milan | Artigiano in Fiera.
www.barcolana.it www.artigianoinfiera.it
AUGUST 7/10 | Milan | Oh Bej! Oh Bej! – Traditional street
16/8 | Siena | Palio di Siena-Palio OCTOBER market. milan.welcomemagazine.it
dell’Assunta. www.ilpalio.org 7/10– 3/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | 7/12 | Milan | Teatro alla Scala –
30/8-9/9 | Venice | Biennale Cinema. International Alba White Truffle Fair Opening of the Opera Season.
www.labiennale.org (93rd edition). www.fieradeltartufo.org www.teatroallascala.org

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 19
[ W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A]

Dream experiences
THE SPECIAL ONES
To discover the beauties of the city or to try out special
experiences, Welcome to Italia offers you some unmissable MARKET TOUR AND TUSCAN
opportunities. Choose whether to take part in exclusive COOKING EXPERIENCE
Let’s visit the Sant’Ambrogio Market with a chef-
city tours or book the experience you’ve been dreaming: guide and buy all the necessary for a cooking
www.welcometoitalia.com class. Enjoy your meal with a wine tasting.

ALL ABOUT FLORENCE!


Make the most of the city in one day. If
you are planning to stay in Florence only
24h then you can’t miss this combination
tour. You will have the opportunity to
enjoy a guided tour of the Accademia
Gallery and the Uffizi Museum and to
walk around the city center.

TOP MUSEUM TOUR SPECIAL HUNT FOR


Visit the two most important museums FAMILIES AND CHILDREN
in Florence which host some of the Learn about Florence’s past in a fun and
greatest art pieces of the Italian history. entertaining way in an intriguing quiz and
The guided tours include the skip the animal art hunt. Two itineraries are available:
line tickets and the free admission to the Medieval and Renaissance.
Archeological Museum and the Museum
of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure.

FLORENCE BY NIGHT
PRIVATE EXPERIENCE
Explore the city center with a private tour:
you can enjoy a pleasant walk with an
expert guide who will take you in the main
squares and most interesting landmarks of
Florence, from the Signoria square to the FASHION TOUR
Ponte Vecchio and the Oltrarno district.
IN FLORENCE
The best of town temptations: the antique
Florentine perfume shop, Officina Profumo
Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella and the

EXCLUSIVE TOUR
Museo Salvatore Ferragamo.

AT THE ACCADEMIA
Don’t miss an original tour discovering
the stories of the “David” by Michelangelo,
one of the most famous sculptures in
the world, and a must-see masterpiece
in Florence. The Accademia ticket and
museum reservation fees are included.

Discover other experiences:


www.welcometoitalia.com
20  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
Live your dream and get
your experience in a click

Welcome to Italia network


promotes the Italian tourist heritage,
combining selected contents
with high-quality experiences. www.welcometoitalia.com
Shopping
FASHION & DESIGN INDEX

Brandimarte, on a silver platter


At the historic Florentine Guscelli, Stefano’s daughter.
Brandimarte is distinguished for the hand
silverware brand, you can crafting and sale of silverware for the
purchase engravings, glasses, table and 925 sterling silver jewellery,
decanters, bracelets, rings, in addition to its collection of historical
necklaces, pendants and much silver medals.
The collections of jewels, exclusively made
more besides, all strictly made in Italy, created by the best Florentine
in Italy. artisans, include bracelets, rings, necklaces,
earrings and much more besides. Among
the lines to be worn, standing out are the

I
n the heart of the historic centre of “timeless” hammered jewellery, elegant
Florence, there is a special boutique, and sophisticated.
a genuinely exciting place to tour which In the boutique you will also find the
aims to re-educate you on the use of silver “Wine Collection”: decanters and tasting
in everyday life, breaking the habit of glasses made of 925 sterling silver.
seeing the silver item as a luxury piece to This metal, in fact, has organoleptic and
only be exhibited on special occasions. antibacterial properties, is a heat conductor
This is the workshop of Brandimarte, a and enhances the aromas within drinks.
company that was established in Florence
in 1955 and that was run by the founder’s >> www.brandimarte.com
grandchildren, Stefano and Giada Guscelli. Via del Moro, 92/r.
Since 2017 the brand is owned by Bianca T: 055 2693384. Map D3

22 F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
The entire
Ferragamo universe
PH © GUGLIELMO DE’ MICHELI FOR SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Florentine brand that has known how to combine age-old hand Salvatore Ferragamo
Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r.
crafting skills with the creativity typical of products made in Italy,
T: 055 292123.
today Salvatore Ferragamo represents quality, contemporary www.ferragamo.com.
elegance, innovation and tradition.
The Florentine boutique, which contains all the fashion house’s
men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections, is located
inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company’s historic
workshop since 1938, today its headquarters and the site of the
Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.
The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside
large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes, stretching from
Piazza Santa Trinita to the banks of the River Arno.

FERRAGAMO’S CREATIONS – The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the Ferragamo’s Creations corner, with the
exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic. This is a space whose layout recalls the studio where Salvatore Ferragamo
received his customers and all its creative inspiration. A unique opportunity to fully immerse yourself in the universe of this gifted innovator
who has revolutionised the world of women’s footwear through new models, volumes and materials.

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 23
SHOPPING

Strolling
through
Florence
The city’s blend of old-
world charm and modern
specialty stores makes
for a shopping experience
that will satisfy every kind
of visitor.
© TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

VIA DEL PARIONE:


THE ARTISANAL HEART OF THE CITY
A street celebrating Florence’s artisanal shopping
opportunities, revealing artisanal stores and modern
boutiques that offer one-of-a-kind goods. This area
houses Il Bisonte, a Florentine brand of unique high-
quality Italian leather items and Anichini, a traditional
tailor’s shop for children where skilled artisans create
elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters
using the best Italian fabrics. Don’t miss the Antica
Legatoria Alberto Cozzi, a store filled with the arts of
bookbinding, personalizing original leather goods, and
embellishing paper through the rare process of marbling.

VIA DE’TORNABUONI: LUXURY SHOPPING


Together with Via della Vigna Nuova, Via de’ Tornabuoni is believed to
be the most famous shopping area in the city, containing many top
designer fashion brands. This district, which is the medieval heart of the
city, has been associated with luxury shopping since the 19th century. The
historical buildings have been renovated into modern stores housing
famous brands like Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bulgari, Burberry, Damiani,
Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Loro Piana, Montblanc, Pomellato,
Prada, Saint Laurent, Stefano Ricci, Valentino, Tod’s, Hogan, Emilio Pucci
and many others. Visit the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo within the same
boutique, which honors the world-famous Florentine designer with piece
showcases and historical evolution documents. Also, make sure to visit
L’Olfattorio, a bar à parfums that blends Renaissance architecture with
the sale of contemporary products, where you can inhale scents from
wine glasses.

24 F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
SHOPPING

PONTE VECCHIO, LUXURY SHOPPING OVER THE BRIDGE


Ponte Vecchio is a passageway over the Arno River that is devoted to shopping for
gold and jewellery. The jewellery shops on the Ponte Vecchio have a long history. Back
in 1563, Grand Duke Ferdinand I ordered local goldsmiths to set up shop along the
bridge, in order to replace the butchers’ and grocers’ shops that had been established
there for centuries. The latter threw garbage and scraps from their shops into the

© EQROY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Arno and this damaged the image of the centre of a prestigious city such as Florence.
After four hundred years, this is still the commercial vocation of the district, which
nonetheless does not lack other luxury trades, starting with handmade leather goods.
Particular attention should be paid to the Cassetti 1926 boutique, whose first shop
on the Ponte Vecchio dates back to 1976 and whose second was opened in 1981. This
was followed by the Rolex Boutique in 2009 and, since 2014, the Vacheron Constantin
Boutique, which, with its watchmaking history of almost 260 years, adds further value
to the range of luxury goods offered by the Cassetti brand.

SAN LORENZO
MARKET
The market of San Lorenzo is a not-
to-be-missed experience in Florence.
The indoor section, called Mercato
Centrale, is a gourmet heaven
that offers an endless selection of
international foods in a 19th-century
building. Shop for groceries or spend
© JULIA LAV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

time tasting all the food in the eating


area. The market also has an outdoor
area that stretches across multiple
streets surrounding Mercato Centrale,
consisting of hundreds of vendors
that give you the opportunity to buy
authentic souvenirs.

ARTISANS IN OLTRARNO
From a recent census, it seems that there are around 800 artisans’
workshops in the Oltrarno. Via Maggio, in particular, traditionally
a temple for antiquarians, is today still a concentration of art and
culture. However, if you have a weakness for shoes, you are in the
right place, because this zone is the very place where you can see
craftsmen busy at work on made-to-measure shoes, such as those
of Roberto Ugolini (see photo). Do you love the unmistakable aroma
of paper? Then you will not be able to resist going into one of the
marbled paper and bookbinding artisan shops in the Oltrarno, such
as Il Torchio.
But this zone is also swarming with goldsmiths’ workshops: for
example, drop in at Ugo Bellini, a stone’s throw from Piazza Santo
Spirito, where they create exclusive jewellery using age-old methods,
also based on customers’ designs. And what can you say about the
Antico Setificio Fiorentino, one of the very few silk production
workshops left in Europe? Since 1786 they have been spinning
precious silk fabrics, today used above all by the houses of haute
couture and by architects to furnish residences and boats.

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 25
SHOPPING

OLTRARNO,
ITALIAN TRADITION AT THE TOP

© KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
In the districts of the Oltrarno - San Frediano, Santo Spirito
and San Niccolò - you breathe the air of a more authentic
“Florentine-ness”. In this labyrinth of lanes and alleyways
you can still find craftsmen and women who conserve and
hand down original and sophisticated working methods.
The confines between these districts are rather fluid and the
Oltrarno can be considered one large sprawling district.
Once considered among the most infamous
neighbourhoods in the city, today San Frediano has become
fashionable, also thanks to the famous Lonely Planet
SANT’AMBROGIO, THE PICTURESQUE
guide, which defined it as “the coolest neighbourhood in
the world”. In particular, Borgo San Frediano has become DISTRICT OF FLORENCE
renowned both for its traditional artisan shops and for the
Sant’Ambrogio is a lesser-known area filled with stores
many venues spread out among its lanes and alleyways,
and restaurants, featuring the beauty of Florence without
but there is also no shortage of churches and historical
plentiful crowds. Shop for fresh ingredients in the Mercato
monuments. Don’t miss the legendary art form with a visit
di Sant’Ambrogio, a historic indoor market that has
to the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria
offered produce and specialty foods since 1873. For
Novella (see photo), a 600-year-old perfumery located in a
antiques and crafts, stroll through the Ciompi Antiquarito
breathtaking antique structure. Still using ancient recipes
in Piazza Annigoni. Open daily, this market offers vintage
to make modern-day perfumes and skincare goods, its
items such as jewelry, prints, and books. If you love leather
products have been famous for centuries.
accessories then you must not miss Cuore di pelle, a small
artisan shop located between the Synagogue and Piazza
Sant’Ambrogio. Here you can buy bracelets, belts, bags,
passport holders, brush holders, bottle holders, wallets
and plenty more besides, all obviously made of handsewn
leather (www.cuordipelle.com). In Via De’ Macci, towards
Santa Croce, you must not miss taking a glance at the
workshop of Cecilia Falciai, who specialises in working
scagliola and in the technique of Florentine mosaic-making
(commesso) using semi-precious stones and marble
(www.ceciliafalciaiscagliola.com).
In Via Sant’Egidio, the historic shop Sbigoli Terrecotte offers
a vast range of artistic ceramics, entirely made and decorated
by hand, following the Tuscan handicraft tradition of majolica,
in other words, terracotta enamelled with medieval and
Renaissance decorations, but with more modern influences
(www. sbigoliterrecotte.it).

VIA PORTA ROSSA AND PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA

In the heart of Florence, the network


© BAHDANOVICH ALENA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

of streets between Via Porta Rossa and


Piazza della Repubblica form a paradise
for shoppers. Browse through countless
luxury stores and marvel at window
displays in Via Porta Rossa to find the
perfect Florentine souvenir. Don’t miss
Rinascente, a department store in Piazza
della Repubblica that sells the best
brands and artisan products in the city,
even offering a terrace with a breathtaking
panoramic view of the city.

26 F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
SHOPPING

BORGO SS. APOSTOLI


Borgo SS. Apostoli is a road tucked between
Ponte Vecchio and Ponte Santa Trinita, a
quiet haven in the center of the bustling
city. The street contains historic buildings
and numerous antique stores that embody
Florentine artisanship. Find historic stones,
artwork, and leather goods in the traditional
stores that line the peaceful road.

BORGO OGNISSANTI, TOP OF ANTIQUES

The street of Borgo Ognissanti runs parallel to the Arno River and is
located nearby the Duomo. Considered the “path of opportunity,”
this area is filled with stores whose products range from flowers
to pastries to hardware tools. Discover showrooms that span from
antique to contemporary as well as interior design stores. Walk
through Piazza Ognissanti, the site of the annual antique fair where
global dealers meet to display their traditional paintings and furniture.

Tax Free Refund Guide


According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may • the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month document was issued.
be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian
or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an “customs stamp”; retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve
advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free”
to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of be electronically transmitted by the national seller to sign in its window).
the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer
guide according to the Italian legislation to discover Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods
the common system of value added tax exclusively for carried out. leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating
non-EU resident travellers. • after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will the passenger from having to return the invoice to the
send a message to the retailer that all the requirements retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major
1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse international airports or main border crossings. Most
services, and is part of the European Union’s value added the amount due or will settle the tax relief. major department stores have Tax Free Refund
tax system. • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within offices.
2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. four months after the purchase was made. If the invoice 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the
This refund does not cover the services supplied by is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought payment of a small administrative sum which is directly
hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the
3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: the purchase. traveller.
• you are a non-EU resident; 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund
• the goods purchased are intended for personal or shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-
family use only and are carried in your luggage; territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned
• the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE companies.
Euro (VAT included); checking in). 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly
• the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the by customs offices.
should include a description of the goods purchased, original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs
your personal information as well as the details of your office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/
passport or any other equivalent document; returned within four months from the date when the

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 27
INDEX
[FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands
ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open
www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.
Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4
T: 055 212995. Map E4
CHANEL—www.chanel.com.
ANNAMARIA CAMMILLI — Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della
www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4.
3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm- Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am-
7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12R. T: 055 2608617. 7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli,
Map F4 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3

ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. CHOPARD— www.chopard.com.


Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm;
Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Sun 11.30am-7pm.
Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r.
Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; T: 055 2670157. Map E4
Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm.
Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. DAMIANI— www.damiani.com
T: 055 287931. Map E4 at Rinascente department Store.
Piazza della Repubblica, 4.
BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. www.rinascente.it. Map F3
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.
Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 DIOR— www.dior.com.
9040090. Map E4 Women. Open daily 10am-7pm.
Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. T: 055 2669101.
BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com. Map E3
Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat
10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/ DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it
3pm-7.30pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi,
T: 055 219179. Map E3 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby.
Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’
BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm.
Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com
Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.
Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082.
BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Map E4
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm.
Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it
Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm;
Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— T: 055 264254. Map E3
www.brunellocucinelli.com.
Open daily 10am-7pm. ETRO—www.etro.com.
Via dei Pecori, 16/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm.
T: 055 285832. Map F3 Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r.
T: 055 2670086. Map D3
BULGARI—www.bulgari.com
Open daily 10am-7.30pm. FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat
Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r.
T: 055 2396786. Map E4 T: 055 212305 Map E3

BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. FURLA—www.furla.com.
Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30.
Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza
T: 055 293811. Map E4 della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANI suit, the fruit of the incredible mastery of Italian craftsmanship,
consisting of a short jacket in embroidered tulle that creates a delicate floral-inspired
motif, declined in shades of blue and grey. Perfectly paired with straight trousers in
double silk satin.

28  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30;
Sun 11am-7.30pm.Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r.
T: 055 266981. Map E3

MAX MARA—
Sparkling in all the colours of the rainbow, each facet of it.maxmara.com. VALENTINO GARAVANI rockstud
the magnificent “Nudo” gems evokes the joyful spirit of Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- strappy décolleté fully embroidered
POMELLATO. These jewels are all about discovering, 7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. with tubular beads.
mixing and combining. T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat
10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori,
23/r.
GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com.
T: 055 287761. Map F3
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- Open daily 10am-7pm.
2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r.
T: 055 219041. Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; T: 055 9040100. Map E3
Sun 10.30am-7.30pm.
GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat SALVATORE FERRAGAMO—
Piazza della Repubblica, 43.
10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ www.ferragamo.com. Open daily
T: 055 290284. Map F3
Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r.
• Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. MISSONI—www.misson.com. T: 055 292123. Map E4
T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-
Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. 79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com.
T: 055 75927010. Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1.
HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; T: 055 210856. Map F3
Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r.
degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 T: 055 2608931. Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-
MONCLER—www.moncler.com. 7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 055 216227. Map F3
Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583.
Map E3 TOD’S—www.tods.com.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-
MONTBLANC— 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm.
www.montblanc.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni,
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. 60/r. T: 055 219423.
Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. Map E3
T: 055 292050. Map E3
VALENTINO—
POMELLATO— www.valentino.com.
www. pomellato.com. Women. Open daily
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-7pm.
1pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via de’ Tornabuoni,
CHANEL’s “Le Venis” is an ultra-resistant, 89-91/r. 23/r. T: 055 293142.
protective beauty polish designed to bring out T: 055 288539. Map E4
vibrant colours for an even lacquer effect: it offers Map E3
a palette of shades inspired by an exclusive style.
PRADA—www. prada.com.
Open daily 10am-7pm.
HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; 286035. • Open daily
Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. 10am-7pm. Via de’
T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Tornabuoni, 53-67/r.
T: 055 267471
HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Map E3
Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa
Maria, 70-72/r. T: 055 294909. Map F4

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Handcrafted from soft, shiny, candy-pink calfskin, JIMMY CHOO’s small “Bon Bon”
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. bucket bag features a sculptural silhouette defined by the drawstring and light gold
Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. metallic details.
T: 055 2398688. Map E4

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 29
INDEX
[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets
LUGANO
MENDRISIO
BERGAMO BRESCIA
Not far from
NOVARA TRIESTE
Florence, in MILANO
Tuscany but also
in nearby Emilia- ALESSANDRIA
Romagna, don’t TORINO FERRARA
miss a trip to PIACENZA?
Fidenza Village MAR
these shopping GENOVA Castel Guelfo
ADRIATICO
BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets
destinations The Mall Sanremo FORTE
DEI MARMI Barberino RIMINI
offering discounts ? MAR LIGURE LUCCA THE APPENNINI
? Designer
MOUNTAIN RIDGE
Outlet
year-round. PISA
VENTIMIGLIA FIRENZE

? The Mall Firenze


SAN GIMIGNANO
LIVORNO Valdichiana ANCONA
SIENA ? Village

PERUGIA
BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE
McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a
adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers
from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA
customers
CORSICA
centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the
near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes
Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.
ROMAOpen daily 10am-7pm (in June,
near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm).
to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the
• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR TIRRENO
and initiatives direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the
direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right
shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus
NAPOLI
Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus
FIDENZA VILLAGE
point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central
One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester
Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door
Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China:
office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in
a unique experience combining shopping, art,
• WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge.
SARDEGNA
great food and exclusive services. Open daily
designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance
10am-8pm.
With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands
• WHERE: in Emilia-Romagna, near the city
restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci,
of Parma, only 2 hours from Florence. Take
surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana,
the A1-E35 motorway and exit at Fidenza/
and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and
Salsomaggiore Terme.
something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening).
• WHAT: more than 120 boutiques of Made in
• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè
CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS Italy and international fashion and lifestyle brands
Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store,
The point where quality, style and convenience at prices reduced by up to 70% all year round;
is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to
meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, the Hands-free Shopping service, the Global Blue
savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s
sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with Tax Free Kiosk for immediate VAT refund and the
shopping. www.themall.it
discounts of between 30% and 70% all year personal stylist service are available in the Village.
round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Fidenza Village is an VALDICHIANA VILLAGE
in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from open-air museum embellished by over 30 street An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province
Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun art works by some of Italy’s and the world’s of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a
10am-8.30pm. greatest street artists. With a selection of cafés pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique
• WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit and restaurants where you can sample Italian shopping experience characterised by quality
at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is and regional delicacies, Fidenza Village is the and convenience. It has several facilities and
available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme perfect destination for a pleasant day out. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground,
railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

30  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
best local food and wines are on offer.
Open daily 10am-8pm.
• WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the
direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana
Bettolle.
• WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops
characterized by quality and convenience
offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round
and further discounts during sale periods:
Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein,
Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi,
Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour
and many others.
• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of
the restaurants and refreshments, a modern
playground, the possibility of recharging your
electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge
and, in the event of rain, the possibility of
walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze
www.valdichianaoutlet.it

Valdichiana Village Fidenza Village

Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 31
Tasting
INDEX

FOOD & WINE

One restaurant, three souls


High-quality ingredients courses, makes the restaurant’s proposals
dynamic and highly personalisable. The
from small Tuscan farms specialities range from street food to tartares,
and an elegant, welcoming as well as salads, home-made pasta, cheeses
environment make and meats, with a selection of vegetarian
Foody Farm the ideal place for offers, all based on local ingredients from
carefully selected small Tuscan farms. Inside
an appetising break at any time the restaurant three souls coexist, which are
of day. By Giulia Minero perfect to respond to guests’ requirements
at any time of day. BreakFarm, for example,
is available every day from 7am to 10.30am

D
on’t let yourself be deceived by the and envisages an innovative format based
antique ceilings or the vintage tables, on the international buffet breakfast with
because Foody Farm’s proposals sweet and savoury food, while Farmology
could not be more innovative. This restaurant, reinterprets the classic concept of aperitifs
a few yards from the Ponte Vecchio, with its or after dinner drinks proposing cocktails
modern furnishings, its petrol blue coloured of balanced ingredients mixed in glass, then
velvet seats, mosaics and wrought iron served in bottles at temperatures that differ
details, makes the rediscovery of Tuscan raw according to the preparation.
materials, combined to bring innovative
recipes to life, its distinctive feature. Then >> Lungarno Corsini, 2A
the absence of a traditional dining approach T: 055 242327. Map E4
envisaging hors d’oeuvres, first and main www.foodyfarm.it

32 F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
TASTING

2023 Michelin-starred restaurants


Il Palagio
Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450
www.ilpalagioristorante.it
Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated
environment with tables both indoors and
outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary
proposal that looks to the Italian and regional
tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the
terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or
cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps
and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu
that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials
and colours, at times venturing far beyond the
confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle,
wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine
menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which
also served by the glass.
Santa Elisabetta

In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its
prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants
that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together.

Enoteca Pinchiorri romantic evening. In this case the winning recipe


Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality
enotecapinchiorri.it ingredients (lamb in sea water or Bresse rooster
How do you manage to be honoured with and octopus are an example of this), all washed
three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900
which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the
worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, potato-based one is unmissable) or à la carte.
it comes from the winning combination of prime
quality raw materials, the search for innovation, Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura
yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 Enoteca Pinchiorri
culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura
detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the
includes highly prized labels, along with others creative liaison between Gucci and Bottura
that are little known but equally interesting. Then celebrates two things Italy is renowned for:
we can add the fact that the restaurant is located fashion and fine cuisine. Head of the team is
inside the 18th-century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. The menu is
and that its desserts are a delight for the senses. an explosive blend of flavours ranging from Italy
to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits such
Santa Elisabetta as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed
Piazza Santa Elisabetta, 3. T: 055 27370 bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated
www.ristorantesantaelisabetta.it Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines
In the heart of the historical centre of Florence, in shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro
a unique location, the Byzantine Pagliazza plays around the tones of green and pistachio and
Tower: built around 541-544 AD, today it is part can welcome up t o 35 diners indoors.
of the register of historical Florentine buildings. Borgo San Jacopo
Santa Elisabetta is on the first floor of the tower, Chic Nonna di Vito Mollica at Palazzo Portinari
with a particular circular shape, in an intimate Salviati (Corte degli Imperatori)
atmosphere that only houses seven tables. Its Via del Corso, 6. T: 055 5353555
menu respects nature and the seasons. The chicnonna.com
Chef chooses to experiment with minimalism, A restaurant focused on fine dining, run by
on dishes with a single product that is the Executive Chef Vito Mollica, whose philosophy
protagonist and two or three others that act is to use raw materials of exceptional quality;
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

as a support. Each dish is characterized by the aim is to create seasonal menus with a
the contrasts between acidity and sweetness, traditional yet international flavour, presented
cooked and raw, sapidity and lightness. with a haute cuisine style. It is here that Vito
Mollica creates his most ambitious dishes, thanks
Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo to that combination of technique and childhood
San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 memories that made him appreciated by
www.borgosanjacopo.com national critics and earned him his first Michelin
Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a Star in 2011.
picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the Chic Nonna di Vito Mollica
The menu is à la carte, with a choice of two tasting
restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a courses, one traditional and one vegetarian.

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 33
TASTING

TUSCAN CUISINE Lungarno23


In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani,
Benedicta this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat
EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P.
to which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 mark and come from small local farms. Forget the
forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near image of fast food, because here the hamburger
Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-
Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes
contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally and browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it.
sourced ingredients that changes every two Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957.
months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm- Map G6
11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October
you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€. L’Ortone
www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie
T:055 2645429. Map D2 district, opposite the charming street market,
the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with
Bordino Trattoria a focus on traditional first courses and grilled
High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If
the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always you want to try something more adventurous you
crowded with both locals and tourists because can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale
of its quality food at very affordable prices. The and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza
dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4
grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality.
A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies Tuscani 3 (I)
the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call
www.trattoriabordino.it. Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse
213048. Map F5 and delicatessen that is very famous in the city.
Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few
Cammillo steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously
A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also
Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards
long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously
recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via
curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s Dante Alighieri 18/r.
signature dishes. Also very good are the croutons T: 055 285356. Map F4

Your home with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca


alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San
Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5
CANTINE
restaurant Cibrèo Ristorante
In Florence and in the area near the Market of
Antica Mescita San Niccolò
Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD
Dedicated to those who want to Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the
Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating
experience the real regional culinary Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used
well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and
to serve as a customs post for wine originating
tradition, the typical products of the regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with
from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and
territory and recipes handed down no fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic
predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects
or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the
through the generations of Italian the season and the local territory, with dishes
image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are
families. The “Cesarine” network such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita,
strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected
bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to
- spread out over 140 Italian cities farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€.
name just a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via
with over 1000 amateur chefs - has www.cibreo.com/ristorante. Via Andrea del
San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6
become established over recent years Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 2341100. Map L3

with this very aim: to offer a complete Da Burde Buca Lapi


This is one of Florence’s oldest eating
gastronomic experience by opening The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen,
places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the
and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with
up the doors of home with lunches and Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves
chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro,
dinners, personalised show cooking, traces of over a century of history thanks to the
and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide
cooking competitions, visits to markets meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes.
as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has
Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of
or local producers or catering in remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food,
the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan
simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina,
exclusive locations. Having lunch with dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons,
with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also
an Italian family, with dishes prepared ribollita or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.
French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www.
following the typical traditions of the bucalapi.com.
vinodaburde.com. Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206.
Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3
local cuisine, tasting the wines of the Off Map
territory, is a truly unique experience! Latini (Il) Buca Mario
And from this year live cooking courses Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders
highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca with famous names beneath the bare brick
and virtual appointments are available
alla fiorentina, there are pork chops and ribs on ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine
on the cesarine.com website, in both Florentine cuisine (although you can still request
the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also
Italian and English, so you can continue available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery a private room for up to ten people in classic
to learn family recipes and all the Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca
cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or
secrets of traditional cuisine.
autochthonous and non, as well as the big French pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.
www.cesarine.com bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r.
labels. €€€. www.illatini.com
Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 T: 055 214179. Map D3

34  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
Obicà, not only
Advertorial

TASTING

Mozzarella and Pizza

PHOTOS © ANDREA GRANATIERO


In the elegant and sumptuous setting of a period palace Obicà Obicà Mozzarella Bar
Via de’ Tornabuoni 16
Mozzarella Bar welcomes its guests with the best of traditional
T: 055 2773526
Italian cuisine. www.obica.com
The Obicà Menu for Winter is not just a list of gastronomic
proposals suited for the season, but the result of almost 20 years
of work in the name of quality. Among the tastiest dishes we can
mention the Potato Flan with Mortadella IGP, Sicilian pistachios and
Parmigiano Reggiano DOP fondue, Pizza with Porcini Mushrooms,
Pumpkin, Buffalo Mozzarella and Parmigiano Reggiano DOP flakes,
Potato Gnocchi with Camembert di Bufala Fondue, Gorgonzola,
Caramelised Pears and Walnuts. Finally, one of the most iconic
PH © ALBERTO BLASETTI

dishes of the Mediterranean melting pot, the Sardinian Fregola:


squid, baby octopus, organic tomato sauce and croutons to complete
a dish that promises to be unforgettable.

OBICÀ ALL OVER THE WORLD – The authenticity and genuineness of the best Italian products of which the Obicà Mozzarella Bar Group is a
spokesman, can now be tried in no less than 24 restaurants around the world. In Italy, between Milan and Palermo, Florence and Rome, but
also abroad, where the Italian soul is intertwined with a cosmopolitan spirit: London, Porto, New York, Tokyo, Osaka and Yokohama.

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 35
TASTING

Florentine food terms


PAPPA COL POMODORO
On the face of it this is just another variant of
bread and tomatoes. But until you’ve tried this
soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes,
garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt
and pepper, you’ll never guess how good it is.
Everyone loves this tasty, genuine dish, including
the kids. So much so there’s even a popular
children’s song all about it.

RIBOLLITA
Another delicious country dish typical of Florence
and the whole of central Tuscany is ribollita,
a soup made of stale bread, kale and beans
(borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). ’Ribollita’ literally
means boiled several times. The name derives
from the fact that in the old days peasants used
to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over
a number of days, each time tastier than before.

SCHIACCIATA
This simple focaccia baked in a wood oven
and dressed with olive oil and salt is a great
favourite with Florentines, who eat it on its own
or stuffed with salumi and cheeses, either as a
Buca Mario quick lunch or substantial snack. Again, like many
traditional Florentine recipes, it is based on a
horror of wasting any left over bread dough. In
’Lampre…’ what’s that? Florence has a multitude of culinary specialities Florence you’ll find it at any baker’s, but of course
of peasant origin that are still very popular in the city today. Some are so everyone has their own preference: soft and well
niche as to be unknown outside Florence, let alone to foreigners. So we’ve oiled, crisp and salty, or made with ancient grains.
Just try it to decide which is your favourite!
decided to put together a glossary of Florentine food terms to help you find
your way among the soups, animal parts you never thought you could eat
and distinctive eateries. By Chiara Zaccarelli
Ribollita

BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA CIBREO


This is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence A dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical
cuisine. The succulent steak is obtained from a main course of Florentine “poor cuisine”
specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs,
the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone lemon juice and onion. Even though presented
in the middle. It should be grilled at a very high like that it seems to be an inauspicious mixture,
temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly it is famous for having been one of the favourite
on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends dishes of Caterina de’ Medici, who attempted
on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the - unsuccessfully - to export it to France and it
outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, seems she was so fond of it that it gave her
but not cooked through. It should also be at least indigestion a number of times.
3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and
1.5 kgs. At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by LAMPREDOTTO
weight: an average price to be sure of getting the This is Florentine street food par excellence.
real thing is around 50 euros a kilo. But watch out, it’s not for weak stomachs.
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Actually it’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known


CANTUCCI as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and
This is one of the best-known cake recipes most commonly served in a panino soaked
in Tuscan cuisine. The finger-shaped almond in the broth or topped with the local parsley-
biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of based green sauce. Historically a poor man’s
baked dough while still hot. The dough is made dish, it is still very popular in Florence today
with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds, thanks to the numerous open-air kiosks known
not toasted or shelled. Tuscans normally dunk as “lampredottai”, doing a roaring trade with
their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Florentines as well as tourists who can’t wait to
Santo made from dried grapes. You can find them try this speciality, accompanied by the obligatory
in any bakery or local foods shop. glass of wine.

36  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
INDEX
TASTING

Historic cellars for foodies


Florence’s cantine, where in the past the well to do kept their wine, salumi
and meats, haven’t lost their vocation as custodians of fine taste. The
majority, with dining rooms located beneath street level, are still called
“buca”, although some have become proper restaurants, with menus (and
prices) more suited to international visitors, while others still offer simple,
authentic Florentine home cooking. (C.Z.)

classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca


alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or
pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù.
www.bucamario.com
Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r T: 055 214179.

Buca Poldo - A few yards from Piazza della


Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves Buca San Giovanni
characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita,
pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as
well as a few forays into other regional cuisines. Fiaschetteria Nuvoli - Just a few steps from
Although the majority of the courses are meat Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination
based, some fish dishes are also available. The for anyone who has ever wondered what
kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in
watch the chefs at work. the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until
www.bucapoldo.com evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities
Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/R. T: 055.239.6578. such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts,
tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains,
Buca San Giovanni ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast
Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan
restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby wines, also available for aperitifs.
Buca Lapi
Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. T: 055 239 6616.
cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’
Antica Mescita San Niccolò - Ever wanted to eat secret initiation venue and countless notables Ristorante Buca dell’Orafo - A few yards from
lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a Ponte Vecchio, in an old goldsmith’s workshop
you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of inside the walls of a 13th century palace, is the
also used to serve as a customs post for wine classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina restaurant Buca dell’Orafo. Traditional Tuscan
originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in dishes and menus that vary depending on the
excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other season testify to the quality of the ingredients.
also reflects the season and the local territory, Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini Don’t miss the ribollita, the maltagliati (flat,
with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or irregular offcuts of pasta), autumn mushrooms
ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, linguine al pesto. and taglierini with fresh spring peas.
to name just a few. www.bucasangiovanni.it www.bucadellorafo.com
www.osteriasanniccolo.it Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Via dei Girolami, 28/r. T: 055 213619.
Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836.

Buca Lapi - Buca Lapi is one of Florence’s oldest


eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of
the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves
traces of over a century of history thanks to the
meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes.
Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the
real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are
worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild
boar with polenta. The bill won’t be particularly
easy on the pocket, especially if you go for the
steak, but as we know quality doesn’t come cheap.
www.bucalapi.com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768.

Buca Mario - For years ordinary folk have rubbed


shoulders with famous names beneath the bare
brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple,
genuine Florentine cuisine (although you can still
Buca Poldo Buca dell’Orafo
request a private room for up to ten people in

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 37
Leisure
INDEX

ENTERTAINMENT & TOURS

Cheers to the new Paszkowski


Since 1846, quality and 1991, when it became one of the Locali Storici >> Piazza della Repubblica, 35/R
d’Italia. Today, in its sophisticated rooms, T: 055 210236. Map F3. caffepaszkowski.it
tradition have been combined which have recently undergone a conservative
at the Caffè Concerto restoration, it hosts a Café with an attached
Paszkovski, an unmissable tea room, a cocktail bar and a restaurant. The
destination for breakfast, a first, today, as yesterday, is the ideal place to
treat yourself to a coffee prepared respecting
snack or an aperitif with an the best Italian tradition, accompanied by a
authentically Florentine spirit. selection of home-made sweet and savoury
pastry delights. The ritual of the aperitif takes
place every day in the cocktail bar, with drinks

F
irst inaugurated with the name Caffè ranging from the great classics to signature
Centrale, given its position in the heart cocktails, together with a selection of beers.
of Piazza della Repubblica, the Caffè The classic dishes of the tradition and the
Concerto Paszkovski took on its current proposals that have contributed to the history
identity in 1903, when the Società Toscana C. of the café, with the addition of contemporary
Paszkowski per la Fabbricazione e la Vendita offerings, become the protagonists of the
di Birra purchased it, to transform it into a Restaurant under the skilful guidance of chef
café concerto and then a literary café. From Fabio Barbaglini. Here particular attention is
that moment on, the venue welcomed high- reserved for the selecting of high-quality raw
profile figures of the calibre of D’Annunzio, materials, prepared with cooking processes and
Montale, Saba and Pratolini. A further methods that bring out their flavour without
demonstration of its historical value arrived in altering their properties.

38  
38 FFLO
LORREEN
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GAAZZIIN
NEE II JJU
UNNEE 2023
2023
LEISURE

APERITIVI (more than 1500 labels, also to buy), coffee,


aperitifs and snacks. Delicious Tuscan and other
CONCERT VENUES
Chiaroscuro regional bites. Rooftop terrace with view of Ponte & THEATRES
Opened in 1999 as a place to celebrate coffee, Vecchio. www.signorvino.com. Via de’ Bardi, 46/r.
Florentines today are attracted by the original and T: 055 286258. Map F5 Teatro Comunale
The Teatro Comunale di Firenze is the city’s
genuine snacks. Coffee, hot chocolate and aperitifs
Three Sixty largest theatre. Overall, it occupies approximately
served in a popular bar-cafe furnished with a retro
From May to September the Grand Hotel half a block between corso Italia, via Magenta
touch. Until 9.30pm. www.chiaroscuro.it.
Minerva, next to Santa Maria Novella, opens its and via Solferino. The main theatre has seating
Via del Corso, 36/r. T: 055 214247. Map G3
magnificent panoramic terrazza with swimming for around 1800, but also part of the complex
Easy living pool to outside guests. Aperitifs from 7pm. is a foyer called the “Piccolo Teatro”, which can
Better known to Florentines as the “spiaggina” www.grandhotelminerva.com. Piazza di Santa hold a little under 600 spectators. The name
(little beach), its location is quite singular: this Maria Novella. T: 055 27230. Map E2 “Comunale” [Municipal] dates back to 1933, when
strictly summer-only bar is built right on the river- the Florentine Maggio Musicale was established
bed of the Arno, opposite Torre San Niccolò,
from where patrons can enjoy a leisurely aperitif
BRUNCH (see entry), but the theatre itself dates back
to the second half of the 19th century.
with a stunning view of Ponte Vecchio, often Ditta Artigianale www.operadifirenze.it. Corso Italia, 16.
with live music. There is always a cooling breeze, Founder Francesco Sanapo finished sixth in T: 055 27791. Map B2
a big plus in a sweltering Florence summer. a contest held in Melbourne in 2013 involving
www.easylivingfirenze.it. Piazza G. Poggi. competitors from 60 countries to find the world’s
Teatro Verdi
The largest “Italian-style” theatre in Tuscany
T: 055 2341112. Map I6 best coffee barista. Back in Florence, he opened
is located in Florence, in the historic district of
this bistrot which, besides the exceptional coffee,
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura serves a brunch menu (from 9am to 3.30pm)
Santa Croce, and hosts all genres of performance.
The style of one of the world’s favourite fashion Inaugurated in 1854, since 2000 it has been owned
ranging from Greek yogurt and crudités to bacon
brands, a star chef and an incomparable location, by the Orchestra of Tuscany, which is based there.
and French toast. Designer atmosphere. www.
surrounded by Florentine art. Popular at any hour, www.teatroverdifirenze.it. Via Ghibellina, 99.
dittaartigianale.it. Via dei Neri, 32/r. (Santa Croce
aperitifs are a particularly draw. www.gucci.com. T: 055 212320. Map H4
district). • T: 055 2741541 or Via dello Sprone, 5/r.
Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038. Map F4
(Santo Spirito district). T: 055 0457163. Map E5 Teatro Goldoni
Il Locale Foody Farm
Inaugurated in 1817 in the presence of Ferdinand
Ideal at any time of day, but perfect for aperitifs, III of Habsburg-Lorraine, thanks to its proximity
“The right food from the right places” is the motto
located in a small street not far from the Duomo. to Palazzo Pitti it soon became the court theatre.
of this little restaurant where the quality and
Hanging garden, lounge bar, cantina and intimate Oval-shaped, with 80 boxes distributed over
traceability of the ingredients is the holy grail. An
snugs, all beautifully restored. Exquisite nibbles four orders, the theatre experienced a period
original and genuine light lunch, with the option
and excellent wine list. www.localefirenze.it. of abandonment. After a lengthy restoration,
of half portions. Tuscan street food and fast food,
Via delle Seggiole, 6. T: 055 9067188. Map G3 it returned to its original pomp in 1998, with a
including lampredotto and pecorino, chianina
historical design by Italian director and actor Luca
Il Rifrullo and croutons, besides pasta and soups. 11am
Ronconi. www.operadifirenze.it. Via Santa Maria,
In 1981 it was the first American Bar in Florence till midnight. Intimate bistrot in the Santa Croce
15. T: 055 2779309. Map C6
and it has never lost its appeal as a rendezvous for district. www.foodyfarm.it. Corso dei Tintori, 10/r.
both Florentines and visitors, renovated several T: 055 242327. Map H5 Teatro del Maggio
times but still a landmark. You can enjoy its rightly The Teatro del Maggio is in the centre, beside
Odeon Bistrot the old city walls, next to the historic Stazione
acclaimed aperitifs and abundant buffet in the
Burgers, brunch and aperitifs in this beautiful
garden in summer or in front of the fire in winter. Leopolda (see listing). The garden that welcomes
little restaurant with a very elegant exterior, white
www.ilrifrullo.com. Via San Niccolò, 55/r. visitors is Piazzale Vittorio Gui, named after the
columns and vaulted ceiling. Open each day from
T: 055 2342621. Map H6 founder of the Stabile Orchestrale Fiorentina
8.30 in the morning till 3 at night, for snacks and
and the Florentine Maggio Musicale. Symphony
Moyo traditional Tuscan dishes as well as an exceptional
concerts and operas are performed in a
Aperitifs and light dinner in a locale that offers wine list. City centre, next door to its namesake
contemporary space in a large wood-covered hall.
international cuisine, cocktails and DJ set in cinema. www.odeonbistro.it. Piazza degli Strozzi,
www.operadifirenze.it. Piazzale V. Gui, 1.
a modern and stylish setting, a landmark of 8/r. T: 055 215654. Map E4
Off Map
Florentine nightlife. www.moyo.it. T: 055 2479738.
Procacci Stazione Leopolda
Via dei Benci, 23/r. Map H4
This delicatessen founded in 1885 has become
Inaugurated in 1848, it was Florence’s first railway
Rivalta Cafè an institution, and not only in Florence, especially
station: it was decommissioned, and today has
Aperitifs, DJ set and Italian menu in a chic venue for its truffle-based specialities and impeccable
become a sought-after venue for meetings,
that combines modern furnishings and frescoed selection of wines. Combines a gourmet food
conferences and various events. A versatile,
ceilings. The sight of the Arno at dusk always shop and wine bar in a relaxing atmosphere,
multifunctional space, it has its name associated
attracts a crowd. www.rivaltacafe.it. Lungarno with delicious snacks to eat in. 10am till 9pm
with the recent history of Italy, being the venue of
Corsini 14/r. T: 055 289810. Map E4 (Sunday from 11am till 8pm). Historic venue in the
the event that launched the career of Florentine
heart of Florence. www.procacci1885.it. Via de’
politician Matteo Renzi. www.stazione-leopolda.
Rooftop Bar La Terrazza Tornabuoni, 64/r. T: 055 211656. Map E3
com. Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 5. T: 055 212622. Map A1
Cocktails and champagne on an elegant patio
furnished to contemporary taste, looking over at Teatro del Sale Visarno Arena
the medieval Consorti Tower. On the top floor of Theatre-club-lounge-restaurant inspired by
It is located inside the Ippodromo Visarno
the Hotel Continentale. www.continentalehotel. Florentine celebrity chef Fabio Picchi – formerly
racecourse, located in Florence in the Parco
com. Vicolo dell’Oro, 6. T: 055 27265987. Map F4 patron of the legendary Cibreo restaurant – and
delle Cascine. Surrounded by greenery and with
co-founder, president and artistic director Maria
seating for 60,000, the area is the favourite venue
Se·Sto on Arno Cassi. Every day from 12-noon it serves a highly
for major open-air events. Active since 2015, it
The Westin Excelsior opens its bar for aperitifs original brunch of buffet food and hot snacks at a
has already hosted, among others, concerts by
every evening from 7pm to 9pm. Two large fixed price of 15 euros (20 euros on Saturday and
David Gilmour, Massive Attack, Einsturzende
terrazze provide a 360° view over the marvels Sunday). From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30pm-9pm),
Neubauten, Sting and Duran Duran, but also the
of Florence. www.westinflorence.com. dinner with after-dinner show, both at a fixed
2015 and 2016 editions of World Refugees Day.
Piazza Ognissanti, 3. T: 055 27151. Map C3 price of 30 euros. www.teatrodelsale.com.
www.visarnoarena.it. Parco delle Cascine (approx.
Via dei Macci, 111/r. (Sant’Ambrogio district).
Signorvino two kilometres from the Central Station of Santa
T: 055 2001492. Map I3
This wine bar on two floors offers Italian wines Maria Novella). Off Map

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 39
Itineraries
INDEX

LANDMARKS & MUSEUMS

Amid faith, art and history


Universally recognised as one memory of the “Antipope” John XXIII created >> Battistero di San Giovanni
by Michelozzo and Donatello, the precious Piazza San Giovanni. Map F2
of the locations symbolising
gilded mosaics of the dome representing www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it
the city, consecrated in 1059 the Angelic Hierarchies and Universal
in honour of its patron, Saint Judgement stand out, dominated by the
John, the Baptistery of San great figure of Christ the Judge.
Giovanni is one of the oldest The exterior of the Baptistery, on the other
places of worship in Florence. hand, entirely covered in slabs of white
marble from Carrara and green marble from
By Giulia Minero Prato, is famous for its three bronze doors,
of immense historical and artistic value. The
South Door, by Andrea Pisano, dating back

L
ocated opposite the complex of Santa to 1330, illustrates the life of Saint John the
Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery owes part Baptist in 28 inlaid panels, the North Door,
© ARTONO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

of its renown to its particular octagonal by Lorenzo Ghiberti, imagines the life and
plan structure - typical of the baptisteries passion of Christ through 20 panels, and with
of antiquity - surmounted by a pyramidal a further eight, the four evangelists and four
dome consisting of eight segments, the “fathers of the church”, while the East Door,
richly decorated interior of which bears the located opposite the Cathedral and known by
signatures of great Renaissance artists of the the epithet conferred on it by Michelangelo,
calibre of Cimabue and Coppo di Marcovaldo. of “Porta del Paradiso” (Gate of Paradise),
Among the masterpieces contained in it, consists of ten gilded panels representing Gate of Paradise, detail.
in addition to the funerary monument in scenes from the Old Testament.

40 F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
ITINERARIES

ATTRACTIONS www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della


Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
Piazzale Michelangelo
Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and
& MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio
appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its
views seen all over the world in million of postcards
Duomo and Cupola There has been a bridge at this point of the River
and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most
Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet,
famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some
official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, between floods and reconstructions, the official date
of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access
is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as
to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree-
Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted
lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the
important artists of the period participated in its greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops,
monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe
creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous who used the river to dispose of their waste in a
del Poggi”. Map I7
multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it
19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths San Miniato al Monte
construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the
world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious
foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. history, on prominent display on the bridge is a building situated at one of the highest panoramic
it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith points in Florence. The most spectacular access is
of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge gained via the monumental flight of steps (which
Battistero between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli is not advisable, however, for those with problems
Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via walking). The outside of the church is decorated
Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 with green and white marble, typical of Florentine
building that completes the considerably striking Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic
appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli
decorates the central part of the façade. www.
but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century. The symbol of wealth and power, the building was
sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34.
It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-
T: 055 234 2731. Off Map
dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy
The outside is decorated with white marble from family. The original architecture dates back to the Mercato Centrale
Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was
of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque owner. The building is located on the left bank of the entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of
period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was
decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and most important examples of Italian-style gardens inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first
mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in the world and are considered a genuine open-air floor of the historic covered market there has been
in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, museum. Currently they are the site of four different a complex containing dozens of small restaurants,
its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the leisure activities and street food options, and this
www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery has now become a point of reference for informal
Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and but good quality cuisine for both Florentines
Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del
Campanile di Giotto www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798.
84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation 294883. Map E6 Map F1
of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the
Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components
of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del
Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like
that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square-
based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be
visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the
top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of
Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.
it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3

PH © IVANTAGAN / 123RF.COM
Piazza della Signoria
This is the central square of Florence, the seat of
civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it
is located at the centre of medieval Florence south
of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman
Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over
the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio
(see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the
Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and
Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent
in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a
series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing
one of the most important sculptural cycles in the
Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties
world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno
David: the one on display in its original position is a district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of
copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the
dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious
Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains;
Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest
of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an
synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one
important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume
of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its
imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today.
its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6
make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 41
ITINERARIES

Santa Croce
Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD www.firenzecard.it
and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”,
a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a
radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober
appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta
floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some
of his great masterpieces here and the French
writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic
agitation that has been known since then as the
“Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the
monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo
and Machiavelli. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza
Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 2466105. Map H4

Santa Maria Novella


Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo
Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of Firenzecard costs €85 and allows access to 60 museums and is valid for 72 hours
reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or
dates back to the end of the 13th century but work from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes:
on it continued for centuries, so the church, with • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum
its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a on the Firenzecard circuit
harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria degli
styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts
Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free.
exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto,
Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio
and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 -
piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Full onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts,
T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2 ticket price: Basilica + Medici Library €8.50. www. performances, contemporary art installations and
bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and
Santo Spirito Map F2 holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum
Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org.
Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a Cappella Brancacci Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3
point of reference of the Augustinian order. The The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del
church has given its name to the entire surrounding Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, Forte di Belvedere
neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’
“Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. that is universally renowned for the frescos of Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti
A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hil.
was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed The fort currently hosts top-level events and
www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion
T: 055 210030. Map D5 eventually completed by Filippino Lippi between of temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3.
1481 and 1482. You are advised to book (T: 055 www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via San
San Lorenzo 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun Leonardo, 1. Map F7
Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri
Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Galleria degli Uffizi
€6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione
Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and
Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini.
Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth second floors of the large building erected
comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055
century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in between 1560 and 1580 based on a project
2768224-558-2382195. Map C5
the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous
of the last major reconstruction work that took place in Cappelle Medicee museums in the world on account of its
the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures
the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. museum, but their history is closely associated and paintings. The collections of paintings from
Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a
rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, they are part. The museum consists of the New number of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to
which unfortunately was never executed. The interior Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its Botticelli, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are
is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel also important collections by German, Dutch and
by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and
operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where Rubens. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed
9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €20. www.
buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which contains uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6.
MUSEUMS & the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder. Open
daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday
T: 055 23885. Map F5

EXHIBITION SITES Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze


and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket price:
The Galleria owes its vast popularity to
€8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/
Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org.
the presence of a number of sculptures by
Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but
Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055
Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the above the famous David, transported here from
282984. Map F2
architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by
Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the
wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of adjacent premises are works coming from the
gained by ascending the monumental staircase private architecture of the Renaissance and a Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and
designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo dynamic cultural centre that hosts international the convents themselves, which were abolished
Ammannati in 1559. The Library conserves approx. level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca,
11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian
often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, icons and musical instruments of the courts of
19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare the café and the museum shop, which looks out the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun

42  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
ITINERARIES

8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full Museo di Santa Maria Novella Museo Salvatore Ferragamo
ticket price: €12. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes This is a museum devoted to the history of the
beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder,
T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 monumental cloisters. The church contains Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every
extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, year it organises exhibitions that investigate the
Museo degli Innocenti relationship between fashion and art. The museum
Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix,
The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale
the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which
degli Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi.
workshop and the Strozzi Chapel by Filippino was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the
Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned
Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the headquarters for his company and his workshop
children, today it continues its function as
Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of
the “Institute of the Innocents”. The museum
Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket price: Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries.
itinerary combines the documentary and
€7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.
historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery
comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza
hosts precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli,
Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4
Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni,
Map E3
Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Museo Stefano Bardini
Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the Museo Giardini di Boboli A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant
terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922)
beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who donated his private collection to Florence,
www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima were first responsible for designing their layout, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance
Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1 creating the model of the Italian-style garden that building that housed his antiquarian gallery.
was to become an example for many European There are over 2000 items there, including
Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure sculptures, paintings and objects of applied
courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance
An elegant collection of works made of semi-
statues, adorned with grottos - including the arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century,
precious stones and multi-coloured marble and
famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, with a major presence of works from the Middle
scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings,
such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they Ages and the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-
instruments, plus an extensive collection
are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced Mon 11am-5pm. Full ticket price €6. www.
of stone samples. The works are displayed
area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai,
in chronological order from the early 17th
Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427. Map G6
century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-
At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina
2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.
del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain
Orsanmichele
opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. A unique, extraordinary monument, in which
Museum. Closed first and last Monday of the
T: 055 218709. Map H1 civil and religious functions are combined. Built
month. Full ticket price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza
as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was
Museo di Palazzo Vecchio Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6
consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground
For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria,
or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the
Museo Nazionale del Bargello floor the Church houses a grandiose marble
This imposing building, built between the 13th tabernacle by Orcagna. The originals of the
city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the
and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine
Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over
and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that
time it has undergone numerous enlargement and
between 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves adorned the niches outside on the four sides of
transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine
a highly important collection of Renaissance the imposing stone cube are conserved in the
routes are rooms and private environments
sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca museum on the first floor. On the second floor you
sumptuously decorated by some of the most
della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria
famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with
and Giambologna, and prestigious collections del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here.
period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces.
of “lesser arts”. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm.
Open daily, 9am-11pm; Thursdays throughout
Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei. Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/
the year: 9am-2pm. Museum full ticket price: €10.
beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. Via del musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1.
www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della
Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 T: 055 2388606. Map F4
Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4

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f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 43
Essentials
INDEX

MAPS & INFO

PHOTO © SEAN XU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM


The museum city
Within its historic centre to vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by
that you tour it on foot, to best enjoy its the Florentines. It was originally outside the
(declared a “Unesco world
beauties, but you can also count on quite historic centre, but today it contains important
heritage site” en bloc) an efficient public transport network attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the Boboli
Florence contains a unique (which, however, is severely limited during Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s
concentration of historical and the nighttime hours, so take care after most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades
artistic attractions. Here is some midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the the Florentine naming system has had a
guidance for you to enjoy it. strategic points, whereas private cars are peculiarity that is gradually disappearing,
usually only allowed into the centre to load but some traces of it can still be found: the
and unload your luggage at your hotel (but civic numbers, in fact, were divided between
always ask your concierge, also so you can “black”, which denoted he residences, and
receive indications of where the car parks “red”, for businesses. Some red numbers still

F
lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up are located in the centre). To find your way remain, so bear that in mind.
of alleyways and sidestreets, derives around the city, it is a good idea to keep well Finally, some suggestion for improving your
from its medieval origins. Yet the in mind that Florence is developed along visit. The Tuscan regional capital is one of
city’s period of maximum splendour was the two banks of the River Arno. All the the cities with the highest tourist density on
undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which roads that run alongside the river, on both the entire planet: wherever you wish to visit,
countless masterpieces remain. With less sides, are called “Lungarno” and it is only book in advance (or have them book for you
than four hundred thousand inhabitants the second part of the name that changes. at your hotel).
and covering an area of little more than Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for example, is You should also bear in mind that the serious
a hundred square kilometres, Florence is right in the centre: it is there that the Vasari overcrowding takes place around mid-
practically impossible to tour by car, and in Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks out over morning, so if you are an early bird then that
fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited it. The whole area on the other side of the could give you a significant advantage.

44  F LO R E N C E T H E W E LC O M E M A G A Z I N E I J U N E 2023
ESSENTIALS

Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE


AMBULANCE – T: 118
POLICE – T: 055 3285
FIRE SERVICE – T: 115
PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2.
T: 055 49771.

Taxi
TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it
TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it
www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and
Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi
drivers.
Fixed taxi fares to airports
From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre):
€22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for
night or holiday travel).
From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180
/ Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan
Malpensa: €650

Trains
The most important railway station is Santa Maria
Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della
Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed
and international trains arrive at and depart
from there.
Florence offers fast-track access to major cities
across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: •
Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h
40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52
min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min
TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021.
www.trenitalia.com.
ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.
www.italotreno.it.

Airports
AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA
Getting around Florence (which is approximately the part located within
the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, which is a
“AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - The Florence bus network consists of 91 lines protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a
(4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, operated by Autolinee Toscane. Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone.
to the North-West of Florence, lies between AT-Autolinee Toscane www.at-bus.it/en/firenze Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and
the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Infoline daily 6am-midnight. scooters are allowed to enter.
Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Green Line T: 800 964424.
T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it
Ordinary ticket: €1.50, valid for 70 minutes; Tourist Information
• Connections to the airport
VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from can be used on buses, trams or trains. INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO -
S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every GEST-Tramvie www.gestramvia.it www.firenzeturismo.it
30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and The tramway is the efficient, convenient, 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4.
approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be punctual and ecological transport system for T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and
purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord getting around Florence, connecting the centre holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information
ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station to the northern and western suburbs of the city. and sales point for Firenzecard.
(Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices Infoline daily 6am-midnight. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R.
(www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip Green Line T: 800 142424. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm.
ticket: €10. The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” line connects Free brochures and complaints service.
S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci. Sales point for Firenzecard.
The Tramway T2 “Vespucci” line connects 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1.
AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA)
the Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Piazza T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and
- (80 km from the centre of Florence).
dell’Unità d’Italia. holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service.
Call centre T: 050 849300.
Electric buses move around the historic centre 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1.
www.pisa-airport.com
and also reach the pedestrian areas T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm.
• Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella
Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola (C1-C2-C3-D lines). TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000
Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most Info about services for tourists, exhibitions,
€4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, important museums in Florence: it operates from events, opening times of museums, how to
travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 7am to 8.30pm and with 25 stops crosses the move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm
1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu historical centre. The service runs approximately in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish.
2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: 170 times a day, one every 10 minutes, Via email (touristinfo@comune.fi.it) you can
€7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, connecting the Parterre/Via Ponte Rosso area ask for information in any language, including
travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. to Lungarno Torrigiani/Ponte alle Grazie. Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and
1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it The entire historic centre of Florence Arabic (answers within 24 hours).

f lo re n c e.we lc o m e m a g a z i ne. i t 45
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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S I N F L O R E N C E ]

The Welcome Magazine

PH © KAVALENKAVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
The magazine in digital or paper version is available at these hotels which are part of the
Welcome Smart Network circuit. www.proedi.it/welcome-smart-network

5 STARS 4 STARS • Off Map


Allegroitalia San Gallo Firenze – Via Lorenzo Il Magnifico, 2 AC Hotel Firenze by Marriott – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map Palazzo Ognissanti Hotel – Via Maso Finiguerra, 12/r • Map C2
• Off Map Adler Cavalieri – Via della Scala, 40 • Map C1 Palazzo dal Borgo – Via Della Scala, 6 • Map D2
Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Albani Firenze – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • Map F3 Pierre – Via de’ Lamberti, 5 • Map F4
Off Map Balestri – Piazza Mentana, 7 • Map G5 Pontevecchio Suites & SPA – Via De’ Belfredelli, 9 • Map E5
Bernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) Continentale – Vicolo dell’Oro, 6/r • Map F4 Rapallo – Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, 7 • Off Map
• Map G4 Dei Cavalieri Relais Monna Lisa – Borgo Pinti, 27 • Map H2 Roma –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 • Map E3
FH55 Villa Fiesole – Via Frà Giovanni da Fiesole detto Executive Firenze – Via Curtatone, 5 • Map B2 Rosso 23 –Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 21 • Map E2
l’Angelico, 35 (Fiesole) • Off Map FH55 Calzaiuoli – Via Calzaiuoli, 6 • F3 San Firenze Suites e SPA – Piazza di S. Firenze, 3 • Map G4
Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 FH55 Grand Hotel Mediterraneo – Lungarno del Tempio, 44 Santa Maria Novella – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 1 • Map E2
Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4 • Off Map Torre Guelfa – Borgo SS. Apostoli, 8 • Map F4
Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3 Gallery Hotel Art – Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 • Map F4 UNAHOTELS Vittoria Firenze – Via Pisana, 59 • Off Map
Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1 Garibaldi Blu – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 21 • Map E2
Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3 Ginori al Duomo – Via de’ Ginori, 22/24/26 • Map F1 LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONS
Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off Map Glance Hotel In Florence – Via Nazionale, 23 • Map E1 Antica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4
LHP Hotel River & Spa – Lungarno della Zecca Vecchia, 18 Grand Hotel Adriatico – Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 • Map C2 Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 • Map F3
• Map L5-L6 Horto Convento Firenze – Viale L. Ariosto, 13 • Map B4 Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2
Lungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Hotel Cellai – Via 27 Aprile 14, 52/r • Off Map
NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 Hotel Degli Orafi – Lungarno degli Archibusieri, 4 • F5 4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS
• Map E4 Hotel Londra – Via Jacopo da Diacceto 16/20 • Map C1 AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6
Palazzo Montebello– Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1 iH Hotels Firenze Select Executive – Via G. Galliano, 24 • Off Map Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1
Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3 IL Tornabuoni Hotel – Via de’Tornabuoni, 3 • Map E4 Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map
Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 J & J – Via di Mezzo, 20 • I3 Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map
Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 Kraft – Via Solferino, 2 • B2 Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map
Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1 L’Orologio – Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 24 • Map E2 Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala,
The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31 Mercure Firenze Centro – Via Nazionale, 21-23/r • Map E1 33 • Map D2
FLORE
THE
WEL
COM

The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 • Map C3 NH Collection Firenze Palazzo Gaddi (S) – Via del Giglio, SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5
E MAG
AZIN
E

Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map


Ville sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 • Off Map
11 • Map E2
NH Firenze – Piazza V. Veneto, 4 • Map A1
NCE
florenc
e.welc
omem
agazin
e.it

COUNTRY HOUSES JUNE


2023
#60

Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a NilHotel – Via E. Barsanti, 27 • Off Map Il Paluffo – Via Citerna, 144-Fraz. Fiano
Marignolle, 10 • Off Map Novotel Firenze Airport – Via Tevere, 23 (Sesto Fiorentino) (Certaldo, Firenze) • Off Map
ALL
CAN YOU
IN TH DO
EVE E CITY
NTS
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