International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering 15 (2023) 100535

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International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering

journal homepage: http://www.journals.elsevier.com/
international-journal-of-naval-architecture-and-ocean-engineering/

A numerical experiment on a new piston-type wavemaker: Shallow

water approximation
Jinsoo Park a, Daeseung Cho b, Taeksoo Jang b, *
a
Deep Ocean Engineering Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Ships and Ocean Engineering (KRISO), Busan, Republic of Korea
b
Department of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Pusan National University, Busan, Republic of Korea

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: In this paper, we present a numerical experiment on a new piston-type wavemaker using a recently
Received 30 September 2022 proposed piston-type wavemaker theory. The theory was primarily derived from the classical Boussinesq
Received in revised form equation, based on the Pseudo-parameter Iteration Method (PIM). We first use the new theory to observe
9 June 2023
low amplitude propagating solitary waves and cnoidal waves, whereby we see the workability and
Accepted 11 June 2023
Available online 17 June 2023
validity of the theory. We further succeed in obtaining the graph of a mean power characteristic, in the
range of 0.4
kh
1.0, of the new piston-type wavemaker from the new theory.
© 2023 Society of Naval Architects of Korea. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open
Keywords:
Mean power
access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
Piston-type wavemaker theory
Pseudo-parameter iteration method
Classical boussinesq equation

1. Introduction
Recently, a new piston-type wavemaker theory (Jang and Sung,
2021), derived from the classical Boussinesq equation (as a
nonlinear shallow water approximation), was proposed based on
the pseudo-parameter iteration method (Jang, 2021). The new
theory might be distinguished from the previously well-known
theories from the traditional perturbation approaches or finite
difference schemes, and so on. Especially, the new theory gives the
analytic expressions regarding the depth-averaged velocity and the
wave elevation for the wavemaker when considering long wave
approximations with small wave amplitude. Being compared with
the existing linear theory (such as Havelock's one), the new theory
seems to be valid and useful in the range of kh
1.0.
Compared to the traditional wavemaker theories, the theory
proposed (Jang and Sung, 2021) might have some advantages. First,
although the Boussinesq equation, valid for the shallow water wave
motion, is applied as a governing equation for generating water
waves caused by the movement of piston-type wavemaker, the
theory could yield good efficiency and accuracy for simulating the
propagating waves in the limited region of relative depth. Second,
* Corresponding author.
E-mail address: taek@pusan.ac.kr (T. Jang).
Peer review under responsibility of The Society of Naval Architects of Korea.
the new approach looks simple but could solve the initial value
wavemaker problem (Joo et al., 1990; Miles, 1991). This may
contrast with the existing linear theory, which is applicable only
with the assumption of regular waves for completely developed
wave trains (or the periodically steady harmonic motions after the
transient motions). The new theory provides a linear analytic so-
lution in the time domain, including steady-state and transient
water elevation for the piston-type wavemaker problem.
There are considerable efforts devoted to the novel works of
piston-type wavemakers. To name a few, Koo and Kim (2006)
numerically simulated a nonlinear wave force based on a fully
nonlinear two-dimensional numerical wave tank in time domain
using a wedge-shaped wavemaker where the combined BEM-MEL
method was used. Gu et al. (2011) also simulated the motion of
piston-type wavemaker based on Navier-Stokes equations of two-
fluid of water and air. Schmitt and Elsaesser (2015) reviewed four
wave-making methods, analyzing their limitations, computational
efficiency, mesh requirements, and implementation complexity.
Davarpanah et al. (2018) numerically simulated a piston-type
wavemaker based on a Lattice-Boltzmann method with multi-
layer moving nested grids and the iWeno5 method. Windt et al.
(2019) constructed several CFD-based fully nonlinear numerical
wave tanks and analyzed their performance in wave generation and
absorption. Sun et al. (2021) derived a simplified method for the
wedge-shaped plunger wavemaker and confirmed its accuracy
through simulations and comparisons with several specific waves.

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijnaoe.2023.100535
2092-6782/© 2023 Society of Naval Architects of Korea. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://
creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
J. Park, D. Cho and T. Jang International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering 15 (2023) 100535

What seems to be lacking, however, is the mean power of a

piston-type wavemaker of the new theory, which may be an ds
UðtÞ ¼ ;t  0 (3)
essential characteristic for engineering purposes. It is regarded as dt
one of the essential aspects of wavemaker design. That is, a According to the new theory (Jang and Sung, 2021), the initial
reasonable estimate of the (mean) power to operate the wave- boundary value problem consisting of Eq. (1) - Eq. (3) was solved,
maker is, in practice, required. Motivated by this, based on nu- yielding not only nonlinear solutions for the surface elevation h and
merical experiment, the present study suggests finding the mean the depth-averaged velocity u but also a linear solution expressed
power characteristic for the engineering application of the new by
piston-type wavemaker theory (Jang and Sung, 2021). To this end,
we first observe three small amplitude propagating water waves ðt ∞
ð
2 h,cos kx
(i.e., the solitary and cnoidal waves) using the new piston-type hðx; tÞ ¼ . , cos½uB , ðt  tÞ,UðtÞdkdt; (4)
wavemaker theory. Thereby, we have shown that the theory is p 1 þ k2 h2 3
0 0
appropriate to solve the real wave maker problems when small
wave motion (i.e., small wave amplitude) is assumed.
ðt ∞
ð
This study is organized as follows. In Section 2, we introduce the 2 3c20 h2 u2B
uðx;tÞ¼
.  ,k sin kx,sin½uB ,ðt  tÞ,UðtÞdkdt
new theory proposed by Jang and Sung (2021). In Section 3, We p 3uB 1þk2 h2 3
00
have conducted numerical simulations of properly propagating " pffiffiffi#
solitary and cnoidal waves with small wave amplitudes. In Chapter x 3
þUðtÞ,exp 
4, we numerically simulate small wave amplitude regular waves, h
investigating the mean power characteristic corresponding to the
(5)
new wavemaker theory.
where k denotes the wave number and uB the wave frequency
satisfying the dispersion relation of the classical Boussinesq equa-
tion (Whitham, 1974):
2. Review of the new piston-type wavemaker
c20 k2
Before proceeding further, it might be helpful to review some u2B ¼ . (6)
concepts of the new piston-type wavemaker (Jang and Sung, 2021). 1 þ k2 h2 3
We consider a 2D wave channel of uniform depth as depicted in
Fig. 1, where h and u imply free surface elevation and depth- The solutions in Eq. (4) and Eq. (5) can be represented in con-
averaged velocity, respectively. Here, a typical progressive wave ventional numerical integrations such as Simpson's or Trapezoidal
illustrated is characterized by wave height H and wavelength l. rules.
Further, sðtÞ and UðtÞ represent the displacement of the vertical
wall of the wavemaker moving from its mean displacement x ¼ 0 to 3. The theory revisited
its extremity (i.e., stroke S) and the velocity of the wall, respectively.
In the study of the new piston-type wavemaker (Jang and Sung, In this section, we perform several numerical experiments for
2021), a fourth-order nonlinear partial differential equation gov- propagating waves of small amplitudes, i.e., solitary and conodal
erning depth-averaged velocity u is considered, i.e., waves in the time domain.

1
2  1
utt  c20 uxx ¼ u  h2 uxxtt ; (1)
2 xt 3 3.1. Solitary wave
pffiffiffiffiffiffi
where c0 ( ¼ gh) denotes the characteristic velocity, g the gravi- The Boussinesq Eq. (1) is known to have the solitary wave so-
tational acceleration, and h the uniform water depth. The nonlinear lution in the form (Debnath, 1994):
partial differential equation was derived from the classical Boussi- rffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 
nesq equations (Debnath, 1994). The initial conditions are assumed u0
uðx; tÞ ¼ u0 sech2 ðx  Ct  x 0 Þ (7)
null, i.e., 4Ch2

uðx; 0Þ ¼ ut ðx; 0Þ ¼ 0: (2) Here, u0 denotes the amplitude of the depth-averaged velocity, h
the depth, x0 an arbitrary distance coefficient, g the acceleration
And the wave-making boundary condition is given as follows: gravity, and C the speed notified as follows:

Fig. 1. Definition sketch of the piston-type wavemaker (Jang and Sung, 2021).

2
J. Park, D. Cho and T. Jang International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering 15 (2023) 100535

in the time domain, being substituted in solution procedures (4)

sffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
and (5). Fig. 2(b) illustrates the wave profiles of Eq. (4) and the
u0 u2
C¼ þ gh þ 0 (8) analytic solution of Eq. (9) (Goring and Raichlen, 1980) measured at
6 36 x0 ¼ 25 (the reason for using the position of x0 ¼ 25 involves the fact
Goring and Raichlen (1980) suggested the relationship between that the generation of waves may be sufficiently developed at that
the depth-averaged velocity and the wave elevation in shallow point where their profiles can be easily observed); the amplitude is
water, so the analytic solution of solitary wave elevation is obtained h0 ¼ 0.0480, which is 3.8% smaller and later than t 0 ¼ 1.0 (time
by substitution of Eq. (7) into the relation, i.e., delay) compared to the analytic solution. In addition, Fig. 2(c)
corresponds to the wave profiles at time t 0 z 93.9 (the reason for
h,u using the time instance t 0 z 93.9 is similar as the above, i.e., near the
h¼ : (9) time instance, the generation of waves seems to be sufficiently
Cu
developed, being easily observed); their wave heights are the same
To generate the solitary wave in a wave flume using the piston- as in Fig. 2(b), but the peak is later about x0 ¼ 1.60.
type wavemaker, the numerical integration procedure (in Appendix Table 1 presents the amplitudes of the solution (the new theory
A) is needed for finding the paddle displacement sðtÞ and the ve- Eq. (4)), the distance between the waves, and the time delay in the
locity UðtÞ for Eq. (4) and Eq. (5). For the numerical experiment of non-dimensional domain using the relation in Eq. (10). According
propagating solitary wave, we set u0 ¼ 0.15 m/s, h ¼ 1.0 m, x0 ¼ to Table 1, as the amplitude u00 of the depth-averaged velocity in-
-40 m and required calculation domains are chosen as 0
x
80m
creases, the wave height also increases; the error in amplitude, the
(increment Dx ¼ 0.02 m) and 0
t
30 sec (increment Dt ¼
distance between waves, and the time delay of the wave increase as
0:02 sec). Moreover, appropriate dimensionless coefficients are
well. As a result, it might be confirmed that the new theory of Jang
defined as follows:
and Sung (2021) is relatively useful for simulating low-amplitude
rffiffiffi solitary waves.
x g 0 h 0 u sðtÞ
x0 ≡ ; t 0 ≡t  ; h ≡ ; u ≡pffiffiffiffiffiffi; s0 ðtÞ≡ (10)
h h h gh H
3.2. Cnoidal wave
Here, H denotes the wave height, which is the maximum value of
the analytic solution (9). We introduce the cnoidal wave analytic solution expressed
Fig. 2(a) shows the displacement and the velocity of the paddle below:

Fig. 2. Solitary wave generation and comparison with the analytic solution.

3
J. Park, D. Cho and T. Jang International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering 15 (2023) 100535

Table 1
Result of numerical experiment on solitary waves.

u00 Wave height Shift-distance (x0 ) Time delay (t 0 )

Goring and Raichlen (1980) Numerical experiment Error (%)

0.0319 0.0328 0.0319 2.74 1.14 0.75

0.0479 0.0499 0.0478 4.21 1.60 1.00
0.0639 0.0675 0.0635 5.93 1.98 1.25
0.0798 0.0855 0.0790 7.60 2.32 1.44

rffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
   16mh
x  Ct  x0  l¼h KðmÞ (14)
hðx; tÞ ¼ h2 þ H,cn2 m ; (11) 3H
D
pffiffiffiffiffiffi H

1 3 EðmÞ

 C¼ gh 1 þ 1 m (15)
H EðmÞ mh 2 2 KðmÞ
h2 ¼ 1m ; (12)
m KðmÞ
where g implies acceleration gravity; note that wave period T is
obtained by l=C from the results of Eq. (14) and Eq. (15).
rffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi The relationship between the wave elevation and the depth-
l 4mh
D¼ ¼h : (13) averaged velocity in the shallow water region is, once again, ob-
2KðmÞ 3H tained as follows using the approximation formula of Goring and
Raichlen (1980).
Here, H denotes the wave height, h2 the trough elevation, m the
elliptic parameter, C the phase speed, and D the width parameter.
C,h
Further, cn denotes one of the Jacobi elliptic functions, KðmÞ the u¼ (16)
hþh
complete elliptic integral of the first kind and EðmÞ the complete
elliptic integral of the second kind. The wavelength l and speed of Using the wave elevation (11) and the velocity (16), the
the generated wave C are then represented, respectively, as follows: displacement of the wavemaker paddle can be calculated using the

Fig. 3. Comparison of displacement and velocity of wavemaker paddle and numerical solutions.

4
J. Park, D. Cho and T. Jang International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering 15 (2023) 100535

procedure presented in Appendix A. In addition, performing nu-
merical experiments for a cnoidal wave with small amplitude, we
set the water depth h ¼ 1.0 m, the wave height H ¼ 0.04 m, x0 ¼
-30 m, and the elliptic parameter m ¼ 0.999, respectively. This
enables us to obtain trough elevation h2 in Eq. (12), wavelength l in
Eq. (14), the speed C in Eq. (15), and the wave period T,
being 0.0082 m, 55.9 m, 3.1554 m/s, and 17.7sec, respectively.
Here, we choose the numerical calculation domain 0
x
80m
(increment Dx ¼ 0.02 m) and time domain 0
t
100 sec (incre-
ment Dt ¼ 0:02 sec); the non-dimensional space and time domains
0
x0
80, 0
t 0
313 using the relation in Eq. (10).
Before the numerical experiment, we need to introduce a ramp
function to avoid numerical difficulty arising from a sudden
movement:
   
1 10
Rm ðtÞ ¼ tanh ðt  0:8TÞ þ 1
2 T
where T denotes the wave period. So the displacement of the
paddle may be expressed as follows:
44.5), as shown in Fig. 3(b), where a cnoidal wave appears. Fig. 3(b)
shows that the solution of (4) compared to the analytic solution
(Goring and Raichlen, 1980); they are in good agreement with each
other. However, as time passes, some deviation may be observed, as
shown in Fig. 3(c).
Table 2 gives numerical values of the wave peak height, wave
period, and time delay of the new theory and Goring's analytic
solution for various wave heights of cnoidal waves. Here, the errors
(compared to Goring's solution) increase as the wave height in-
creases. The period of the wave of the new theory agrees well with
Goring's solution, but as the wave height increases, the wave peak's
time delay increases.
Fig. 4 illustrates a further result of the numerical experiment
carried out here, which gives the various wave profiles of Eq. (4) for
wave heights H=h, at position x0 ¼ 25. For relatively low wave
height, we could not observe a tail of the cnoidal wave, but when a
(17) high wave height is considered, it may be possible to see a tail of the
wave. This implies that the linear solution of Jang and Sung (2021)
appears to be useful and valid only when relatively low wave
heights are taken into account.

sRm ðtÞ ¼ sðtÞ  Rm ðtÞ (18)

Fig. 3(a) shows the plot of displacement and velocity of the
paddle, and Fig. 3(b) shows the solution of (4) obtained by
substituting UðtÞ into Eq. (4). Here, a comparison study is carried
out for wave profiles at x0 ¼ 25 in the wave tank. Because of the
ramp function, the paddle begins to move gradually after 0.8T (t 0 z
4. Mean power of the piston-type wavemaker
4.1. Total average energy per unit surface area
Assuming that a small amplitude periodic (regular) wave is
propagating, the potential energy averaged over one wavelength

Table 2
Numerical experiment of cnoidal wave for various wave heights.

Wave height (H= h) Wave peak height (h0 ) Wave period (t 0 ) Time delay (t 0 )

Goring and Raichlen (1980) Numerical experiment Error (%) Goring and Raichlen (1980) Numerical experiment

0.02 0.0159 0.0157 1.26 78.73 78.73 0.63

0.04 0.0318 0.0308 3.14 55.43 55.43 0.94
0.06 0.0476 0.0447 6.09 45.09 45.09 1.19
0.08 0.0635 0.0578 8.98 38.89 38.89 1.38

Fig. 4. Cnoidal wave simulation for various wave heights using Eq. (4).

5
J. Park, D. Cho and T. Jang International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering 15 (2023) 100535

may be approximated as follows (Dean and Dalrymple, 1984):

ðl
xþ
ðl ðl
rg
xþ
ðh þ hÞ 2
xþ z h2 dx (19)
1 1 h2 2l
PEw ¼ rg dx  rg dx
l 2 l 2 x
x x
The average kinetic wave energy over a unit wavelength can be
approximated as

Fig. 5. Plot of wave trains.

6
J. Park, D. Cho and T. Jang International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering 15 (2023) 100535

ð l ðh
xþ
1 u2 þ w 2
KEw ¼ r dzdx
l 2
x h

ðl
xþ
rh
z u2 dx: (20)
2l
x

Here, we assume that the vertical velocity component w is negli-

gible because we use the shallow water approximation, i.e., the
vertical velocity component is much smaller than the horizontal
velocity component (Dean and Dalrymple, 1984). Then, the total Fig. 6. Graph of mean power characteristic.
average wave energy per wavelength of the wave is obtained by
summing the potential energy and the kinetic energy;
 rffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 
Ew ¼ PEw þ KEw 1 gh 1 2kh
(21) Ptheo ¼ rgH2  tanh kh  1þ : (27)
8 kh 2 sinh 2 kh
The power of the wavemaker to generate the wave is deter-
mined by multiplying the average energy (21) and the group ve- Fig. 6 depicts the theoretical mean power ðPm Þtheor and the new
locity of the Boussinesq equation in Eq. (1) as follows: theory's mean power ðPm Þnumer resulted from Eq. (24) at the same
time. Here, the error was about 2.5% at kh ¼ 0.4 and about 12% at
P ¼ Ew ,Cg (22) khz 1.0. This implies that the new theory would provide a rela-
tively good result for realizing the mean power characteristics.
where the group velocity Cg is calculated by the derivative of the
dispersion relation (6), i.e., 5. Concluding remarks

du  c0
Cg ¼ B  ¼ . 3=2 : (23) We carried out numerical experiments on the new wave make
dk k¼kp
theory based on shallow water approximation (proposed by Jang
1 þ k2p h2 3
and Sung (2021)). Thereby, we could investigate the mean power
characteristic of the new piston-type wavemaker theory, which is
Finally, the non-dimensional form of mean power, denoted by Pm ,
essential for designing for the real wavemaker system in an engi-
is expressed as
neering sense. In addition, other numerical experiments, on three
P different waves, such as the solitary waves and the cnoidal waves,
Pm ¼ . (24) are also performed to check the workability of the new theory
rg,S2 h T when small amplitudes are considered; the result was relatively in
good agreement with the analytic solution. Conclusively, the mean
power characteristic of the new theory is obtained from the present
numerical experiment, which is useful and practical in the range of
4.2. Mean power characteristic 0.4
kh
1.0.

As a numerical experiment, we simulate wave trains caused by Declaration of competing interest

an oscillating piston-type wavemaker of piston's stroke S over
water depth h with a period T. For the simulation, the numerical The authors declare that they have no known competing
values for the stroke and the water depth are chosen as 0.06 m, and financial interests or personal relationships that could have
1.0 m, respectively. The simulation domains are taken as 0
x
appeared to influence the work reported in this paper.
80 m with increment Dx ¼ 0.02 m, 0
t
100sec with Dt ¼
0.02sec, and 0
k
5 rad/m with Dk ¼ 0.005 rad/m, respectively. Acknowledgments
We introduce a different type of ramp function Rm ðtÞ (to avoid a
sudden impulsive response), This work was supported by the Basic Science Research Program
  through the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) funded
1 2 by the Ministry of Education (NRF- 2018R1D1A1B06049813) which
Rm ðtÞ ¼ tanh ðt  3TÞ þ 1 ; (25)
2 T was managed by the GCRC-SOP (Global Core Research Center for
Ships and Offshore Plants). And the first author declares that this
giving
research was supported by Korea Research Institute of Ships and
dsðtÞ pS 2p t Ocean engineering a grant from Endowment Project of “Develop-
UðtÞ ¼  Rm ðtÞ ¼ cos  Rm ðtÞ; (26) ment of performance evaluation technology for KRISO standard
dt T T
offshore structures in the Deep Ocean Engineering Basin(DOEB)”
where sðtÞ denotes the displacement of the paddle. Fig. 5 shows the funded by Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries(PES4760).
result of the wave profiles (Eq. (4)) generated by the wave-making
boundary condition (26); x0 ¼ 25 (left) and t 0 z 313 (right) with Appendix A. Paddle movement
stroke S ¼ 0.06 m. Here, the water depth is taken as h ¼ 1.0 m and
the stroke is S ¼ 0.06 m. The procedure for determining the displacement of the wave-
According to the (well-known) Hovelock's linear theory (Dean maker paddle from the mean position x ¼ 0 is used by applying the
and Dalrymple, 1984), the theoretical power is represented as method introduced by Wu et al. (2016). Using the displacement, the
7
J. Park, D. Cho and T. Jang International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering 15 (2023) 100535

velocity of the wavemaker paddle is obtained by using numerical References

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