For Pet’s Sake, Do Something!

Book Three How to Heal Your Pets Using Alternative And

Complementary Therapies
Dr. Monica Diedrich
For Pet’s Sake, Do Something!
How to Heal Your Pets
Using Alternative and Complementary Therapies
Book 3 of the Do Something! Series
Copyright 2008, Dr. Monica Diedrich. All rights reserved.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a
mechanical retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by electronic, video,
laser, mechanical, photocopying, recording means, or otherwise, in part of in
whole, without written consent of the publisher.
This book is intended as a reference manual only, not as a medical or
veterinary manual. The information given is designed to help the reader to
make informed decisions about the health of pets. It is not intended as a
substitute for any treatment that may have been, or may be, prescribed by a
veterinarian. The author, the editors, and the publisher shall have neither
liability nor responsibility toward any person or entity with respect to any
loss, damage, or injury caused, or alleged to be caused, directly or indirectly,
by the information contained within this book.
Published by
Two Paws Up Press
P.O. Box 6107, Anaheim, CA 92816-6107 Email: drmonica@earthlink.net
Website: http://www.petcommunicator.com
Printed in the United States of America
Acknowledgments

N
ow that I’ve been writing for at least ten years—in addition to teaching
and talking to animals for even longer than that—I’ve reached a point in my
life where I need to stop and look at where I am today. How did I get here,
especially when it comes to the books I’ve written?
The five books I’ve published are among my favorite personal
accomplishments. But whenever I think particularly about my second, third,
fourth, and fifth books, I remind myself every day that I only realized my
dream of publishing them because of the help and dedication of a single
person. She worked side-by-side with me for four years to complete each
one. Her heartfelt desire to help you give your pets the best of care is very
similar to my own.
I could even go so far as to say, with 20/20 hindsight, her name should
have been included on the covers of all four of these books. Though we
didn’t happen to do that, her name will always be written in my heart with
deep gratitude. That’s how I feel about Colleen Fox, who has blessed me
with her friendship, time, knowledge, and expertise, as well as her research,
writing, and editing skills.
I met her as a client just one time ten years ago, along with her two
Westies, Casey and Peaches. Neither of us knew then what the future would
hold. The Universe, however, had a definite plan in mind for the two of us,
and we were finally brought together again six years later when Casey
became seriously ill and departed this life several months later.
At that time four years ago, I was writing my second book and wanted to
include Casey’s story in the chapter about “Lessons Learned.” I also asked
Colleen if she’d review the first three chapters of the second book to see if
she thought the material would hold the interest of my readers. She agreed
the material was definitely very interesting, but as a former teacher in one of
her four professional careers, she asked if she could show me what I could
do to improve the presentation.
The rest, as they say, is history. From then on, I became the recipient of
the wonderful gift she’s given me during our four-year collaboration. That
gift has included untold hours of research, writing, and revising, as well as
constant attention to detail. She was able to turn only a few pages of my
written material and research into full length interesting and informative
I Dr. Monica Diedrich
chapters by adding a wealth of information from her own knowledge,
experience, and discovery.
It’s she who’s responsible for creating structure and establishing flow for
all I was trying to say while writing in English as my second language. I
can’t count the number of times she’s read my mind, and my heart, and
translated my thoughts into words that accurately express all the ideas I most
wanted to convey. To me, she’s the best ghostwriter/editor I could possibly
have had for a project like this.
Along the way, I also had the valuable help of a number of other people I
want to recognize, and to whom I want to express my sincere thanks.
There’s:
. . . Tony Stubbs, the production editor for my first and second books.
He predicted I’d be writing more than one book. I didn’t believe him at first,
but I do now!
. . . Paul McNeese, from OPA Author Services, the production editor for
my third, fourth, and fifth books. He not only handled all of the production
details from the time we gave him each manuscript, but he also helped me
make each book ready for print and for distribution in e-book format. In
addition, he researched and drafted the initial versions of the acupuncture,
acupressure, and hydrotherapy chapters when we were deep in the throes of
a time crunch.
. . . Sue Cramer, who devoted herself to working with the two of us on
the second book. Because she taught us so much about the technical editorial
process during that time, our work on the third, fourth, and fifth books was
made ever so much easier.
. . . Lorena Pollard, of LP Editorial Services, who also joined us when
we had to complete an initial phase of work on this last book two months
earlier than we originally planned. She gathered and organized some of the
additional material for the original drafts of the chapters about Emergency
Supply Kits, First Aid Procedures, and Poison Proofing Your Home and
Garden. She also contributed significantly to the final technical editing of
this last book as well, by giving us the benefit of her twenty-five years of
proofreading experience.
 Several people offered to read single chapters and provided me, and you,
with the benefit of their expertise in one or more of the books in the For
Pet’s Sake, Do Something! series. They include:
. . . Dr. Leonard A. Sigdestad, DVM, Dr. Jacqueline DeGrasse, DC, Dr.
Robert E. Woods, DVM, Dr. Basilio Toledo, DVM, Marie Cargill, Susy
II
Guerra, Nancy Allah, Ellen Atkins, Kathleen Widdison and her husband,
Fay Jones, LAc, as well as David Roden, owner of Ecclecstacy Arts, and
Vicki Meals, owner of Rainbow Sky 2 (formerly Rainbow Sky Trading),
who both made many valuable contributions to the chapters about incense.
Others, like Cyd Tanimura and Nancy Rubow, provided me with
information or simple suggestions that literally flooded my mind with ideas.
My many clients, too numerous to mention, were also there for me, listening
and encouraging me to put everything into writing.
I also want to say a special thank you to Dr. Jacqueline DeGrasse, DC,
for introducing me to animal chiropractic. Through her love for animals, and
her ever-positive attitude, I’ve continued to learn that we can always “Do
something” for our animals.
To my husband, Albert, my constant friend and companion, I owe a
never-ending debt of gratitude for his faith in what I do, his loving
encouragement, and his patience during my many hours of research and
writing.
And last, but not least, my thanks to all of the animals who have
confided in me over the years, and to Chop Chop, my loyal and beloved Shih
Tzu friend, companion, and teacher who crossed over The Rainbow Bridge
on February 22, 2006 at almost 14 years of age. I’ll be forever grateful to
him for his admonition to me to “Do something,” when he was near death at
the age of two, because his words became the inspiration for this series of
books.
III
Introduction

“W
hat can I do to make my pet more comfortable when he or she has to
cope with pain, illness, or a chronic condition?” “How can I improve my
pet’s overall health?”
I can’t begin to tell you how many people have asked me these two
questions during individual consultations and workshops. At times, their
requests for information have compelled me to search for more effective
answers than I was able to provide at the moment. For that reason, I’m very
grateful to my clients and students since they’ve often piqued my curiosity to
learn much more about topics I might never have researched any further on
my own.
Because of their queries, while I was writing my second book, Pets Have
Feelings, Too!, ideas were already swirling around in my mind for a third
book—a “how to” book that would help as many pet parents as possible by
answering those two questions, and more.
My dream was to compile information, all in a single book, about as wide a
variety of healing modalities as I possibly could. However, the single book
quickly grew so large it soon developed into a series of three books. They’re
all published under the umbrella title For Pet’s Sake, Do Something! and
they’re each about how you can help your pets heal and enjoy optimum
health every day.
I first discovered the importance of “doing something” myself when one of
my own dogs seemed to be giving up on life. At the tender age of two, my
Shih Tzu, Chop Chop, was in severe pain because of hip dysplasia and a
pinched nerve. He spent hours lying with his eyes fixed on the horizon as if
his life had no more meaning for him. I felt I’d most likely have to make a
decision soon to give him the final respite he was looking for. Meanwhile, I
was both desperate and discouraged because there didn’t seem to be
anything more I could do to help him.
He’d already been seen by two different veterinarians and each one had
given him only a bleak prognosis. Not only that, but medications were no
longer able to provide the hoped for relief. It seemed he was very close to
death, and the next day, I would probably have to make a final decision for
him. That night, all I could do was to lie beside him on the floor, crying
buckets of tears, but at least I was keeping him company and comforting him
as best I could.
I’d known, ever since I was eight years old, about the special intuitive gift I
had, but at that moment, my gift for being able to talk with animals was the
farthest thing from my mind. I was unable to think creatively or sense
anything intuitively at all.
What happened next, though, as I lay on the floor beside my precious pet,
feeling utterly miserable and totally helpless, would be one of the greatest
lessons I would ever learn.
As clear as day, I heard Chop Chop say to me, “You call yourself a healer . .
. so do something!”
At first, I had no idea what I could do to bring him any other relief. In fact,
his words played over and over in my mind for awhile before their meaning
even became clear to me. Finally, with a flash of insight, I realized there was
something more I could do.
I’d been using the technique of Cosmic Healing Energy to help people for
some time, but I’d never before thought about using it to help pets. However,
now that Chop Chop was prompting me to be an active participant instead of
a helpless bystander, I set aside my sense of desperation and immediately
began sending him healing light energy. I not only sent him healing light
myself, but I also asked the angels, saints, sages, and healers of all space,
times, and dimensions to join me, as well as guide and help me be an
effective transmitter of Spirit’s ever present healing light and love.
Even when I consciously thought I was finished with the treatment, my
hands intuitively kept moving as if they knew exactly where to touch, press,
and pull. When the flow of healing energy stopped, I thanked everyone for
their help and was filled with gratitude and reverence.
When I went to bed that night, it was with the confidence of knowing I’d
now been able to “Do something” positive for Chop Chop’s highest good,
regardless of what the outcome might be.
What happened the next morning was nothing short of miraculous. He stood
up on all four legs and shook his mane! He hadn’t been able to do either of
those things for quite some time because his hind quarters had been
paralyzed. Within a week of receiving regular healing treatments, he was
completely back to being his normal self!
Most of you won’t ever be faced with quite such an extraordinary situation,
and it’s important to realize that not every spiritual healing
V
treatment brings about a physical cure as this one did, but you will have
many opportunities in everyday life when your pets need healing help in a
variety of other ways, too.
That’s why it’s been so important to me to write this series of books—to
empower you to be an active participant instead of a helpless bystander. By
implementing some of the healing techniques I’ve shared with you, you may
be able to help your pet maintain optimum health, manage more comfortably
through chronic illness or pain, or even recover from a serious illness or
injury.
This third book of the series is designed to provide you with guidelines
for using alternative and complementary methods of healing. Many of them
have a long and successful history of use, and many, that at first may seem to
be unconventional, are actually scientifically supported. Some you’ll be able
to use right away after reading about them, while others will require study or
further research on your part in order to use them correctly. You’ll also learn
about various healing modalities a professional can provide for your pet.
The topics we’ll cover in this third book of the series include:
• Flower Essences for restoring spiritual balance to help relieve both
physical and emotional symptoms
• Essential Oils that quickly and effectively transport oxygen and nutrients
into every cell of the body for physical and emotional healing
• Homeopathy—a healing system based on the principle that like heals like
• Magnetic Therapy, Reflexology, and Massage for pain relief, relaxation,
reducing anxiety, and promoting overall wellbeing
• Sound, in its many different healing forms, which serves as a bridge
between body, mind, and spirit
• Color that can influence how a pet feels and behaves
• Crystals as an effective means for focusing healing energy
• Incense fragrances for healing emotional and behavioral imbalances
• Animal Communication and the importance of healing at every level—
spiritual, mental, and emotional—to bring about lasting physical healing
• Acupuncture and Acupressure to eliminate blockages in the body’s energy
system
• Chiropractic to correct misalignments in a pet’s body
• Hydrotherapy to promote healing in a weightless environment Another
chapter you may find helpful shows you how to pre-test remedies before you
buy or use them. Using the techniques I’ve described may help you discover
ahead of time whether or not a certain modality is the right one to use for
your pet, or this type of pre-testing may save you from spending money on
something that wouldn’t be beneficial for your pet. It’s also important to
know how pets age, what emergency kit supplies to have on hand and first
aid procedures to use, as well as how to provide for your pets when you’re
no longer there, so I’ve included chapters about these topics also. If you’re
able to ease your pet’s pain, or provide a better quality of life by
implementing any of the healing techniques described in this book, or in any
of the books of this series, the time and money you’ve spent will be well
worth it.
My teacher and beloved animal friend, Chop Chop, finally did pass on at
almost fourteen years of age, but what he asked me to do, when he was only
two years old, touched not only our own lives, but also the lives of many
other pets and pet parents as well. Though he and I were both on the verge of
giving up many years ago, he taught me that I didn’t have to be a helpless
bystander and that I could “Do something!”
I hope you’ll “Do something” for your precious pets, too!
Remember, we can’t always do great things in life, but we can do small
things with great love. This is exactly the lesson our animal friends teach us
—whatever you do, do it with unconditional love.
***
You can learn more about the contents of each book in the series by
turning to the Epilogue at the end of this book.
You can read Chop Chop’s entire story in Chapter 1 of my first book, What
Animals Tell Me.
You can also learn how to use Cosmic Healing yourself in Chapter 6 of
Book 1 of the series For Pet’s Sake, Do Something! How to Communicate
With Your Pets and Help Them Heal.
Sometimes, my clients will ask if I still use Cosmic Healing to help people
as well as pets. Many years ago, I did, but there are so many animals who
need my help today that I now devote all of my time to working exclusively
with them.
VII
***
Be Sure to Note . . .
Before you begin to use alternative forms of healing, always remember
to consult your own veterinarian, or find a holistic veterinarian in your area
who can correctly diagnose your pet’s condition and provide any necessary
forms of traditional treatment. It’s always important to provide your pet with
every type of treatment that will help speed his or her recovery.
VIII
1: Flower Essences
T
he healing benefits of flowers have been used throughout human history
but it was the distinguished British physician, Dr. Edward Bach (1886-
1936), who gave us such ready access to flower essence remedies today.
Substances such as traditional medications, herbs, and homeopathic
preparations all act on the physical body, but flower essences act at a
completely different and much more subtle level. They affect our energy (or
Ch’i) by interacting with our very essence. They help our personalities
reconnect with the spiritual side of our being so that harmony and balance
can be restored.
Because they do work on such a different level, one of the beauties of
flower essences is that they’re compatible with practically all other forms of
treatment and with traditional medications.
Are flower essences similar to the homeopathic remedies you’ll be
reading about in Chapter 6? Only in the sense that they’re diluted, and a
small amount is very potent. One primary difference between the two types
of remedies is that many plants used in homeopathic treatments may have
poisonous qualities, but the plants used in the thirty-eight BachTM Original
Flower Essences are all non-toxic. Another key difference is that plants used
in homeopathy treat symptoms of disease, while flower essences are used to
heal the cause of disease at a much deeper level.
Both people and animals experience very beneficial effects from using
flower essences, but to better comprehend why, we must first understand the
connection between the personality and the Soul, or Higher Self.

Understanding Dr. Bach’s approach

Dr. Bach believed every human being has an immortal (eternal) Soul and
a mortal (temporary) personality. When the personality is in harmony with
the Soul, the individual remains balanced and enjoys good health.
So why, then, does disease occur? Dr. Bach believed there are two errors
which are the real cause of disease: 1) the personality temporarily loses the
conscious awareness of its Soul, so that it’s now aware only of what it can
see, hear, taste, smell, and touch, and 2) the personality has begun to act
contrary to the intentions of its Higher Self, or Soul. This kind of behavior
creates a negative state within an individual.
This negative state is manifested whenever we see fear, anxiety, worry,
frustration, impatience, anger, greed, excessive control, domineering
behavior, etc. If these negative feelings are allowed to persist, eventually we
see signs of disease. This is true for animals as well as for people.
These negative feelings, which keep the personality separated from the
Soul, are not symptoms to fight against. Instead, these negative conditions
should be corrected at a spiritual level. The personality needs to find the way
back to its Soul qualities, and when it does, disease may effectively
disappear.
Dr. Bach taught that negative feelings can be overcome by utilizing the
higher, harmonious, effective energies of the right plants. He believed that
flower essences cure, not by attacking disease, but by flooding our bodies
with the beautiful vibrations of our Higher Nature. When this happens, to
use his own words, “disease can melt away like snow in the sunshine.”

What are flower essences?

Flower essences are dilute extracts of flowers which come from what we
might call plants of a higher order. Some ordinary plants may be used to
relieve many symptoms, but those of a higher order can effectively help us
reconnect with our Soul qualities.
The flowers are first gathered from entirely natural locations where they
grow freely. They’re picked when they’re at the point of perfection and
ready to drop. They must always be free from any toxins and pesticides, and
they need to be prepared quickly after being harvested in order to preserve as
much of their energy as possible.
Science recognizes four essential elements, and each one contributes to
the potency of a flower remedy. The flower grows naturally in the earth. The
air and the sun (the element of fire) release the soul of the flower. Pure
spring water is then added so the essence of the flower can be used to fulfill
its higher purpose—healing. A small amount of brandy is also used to
preserve the mixture.
You’ll note that flower essences are prepared in a very simple and
natural way because Dr. Bach wanted a treatment that didn’t require
anything to be destroyed or altered.
Why are flower essences effective?

Each of the thirty-eight plants used in the Bach Flower Remedies has a
certain soul quality, or energy wavelength. Likewise, each person or animal
also has a certain soul quality, or energy wavelength.
The frequency of a plant’s soul quality is in tune with the frequency of a
person or animal’s soul quality, or in other words, it’s on the same frequency
with the human or animal’s energy field. Because of the principle of the
Unity of All Creation, the qualities of a plant can help a person or a pet
reconnect with the similar qualities in themselves.
The reason for this is, while a person or an animal may be temporarily
out of balance by having lost touch with their own soul qualities, the soul
qualities of the plants always remain balanced and harmonious. The qualities
of the flower essences can therefore act as catalysts to help reestablish
contact between the personality and the human or animal soul at whatever
point that contact has been broken.
It’s not even necessary for patients to be aware of their negative feelings
themselves. This has frequently been demonstrated when children, pets, the
elderly, or the unconscious, all of whom have to depend on someone else to
make decisions about their care, have successfully responded to treatment
with flower essences.

Using flower essences

You don’t need any special medical training to use the flower essence
remedies effectively, but you do need to be perceptive, and to experience a
natural sensitivity and feeling for the person or animal you want to help.
When using the flower essences, you must remember you’re not treating
the disease itself. You’re treating the individual, and the underlying cause(s)
that predisposed the personality to manifest the disease in the first place.
Whenever you’re choosing a remedy, don’t think about the physical
symptoms or the type of disease. Instead, think about the patient’s mood and
temperament and the feelings the mood produces.
In a flower essence reference guide, you’ll find that a single remedy is
recommended to treat multiple symptoms. However, a person or an animal
doesn’t have to have all, or even most, of those indications in order for that
essence to be the best choice. Just one symptom, or possibly two or three,
may be a sufficient reason for using a specific remedy.
If you inadvertently select a remedy the body doesn’t need, it won’t
cause any harm. The Higher Self knows what should reach the energy field,
and what should not, and it directs the energy of the remedy appropriately.
A fine tuned sense of intuition is the most important tool you can employ
when deciding which remedy to use. And you won’t find just one remedy
that applies and then use it forever. You must tune in to the subtle changes
that are taking place and choose the remedy that’s appropriate at the
moment. For example, you might treat for fear first, followed by treating for
sadness or anger, and later choose a third remedy to help release the feelings
altogether.
If you find multiple remedies you think might be useful, ask yourself
which ones would be most appropriate right now. Often, using only one or
two may be better than using five, six, or seven at a time. That’s because the
energetic impulse of a single flower may have a more profound effect than
six different impulses taken at the same time. A severe emotional state,
however, may require using as many as six or seven remedies, at least
temporarily.
Whenever you can do so, though, focus on just one or two goals. During
this time, some lesser symptoms may also disappear. When you’ve
accomplished the first goal or two, then see what else may still need to be
worked on.
In a nutshell, multiple flower essences can be taken at the same time, and
they can be used even when you’re giving your pets regular medications,
herbs, or homeopathic remedies at other times of the day. Also, the
thirtyeight flowers used in the Bach Flower Remedies are not toxic, so you
don’t have to be concerned about overdosages, side effects, or
incompatibility with other methods of treatment. The BachTM Original
Flower Essences are pure harmonious frequency energies, so the flower
essences themselves don’t cause side effects.
In rare cases, if your pet does seem to feel a little worse temporarily
before feeling better, it may actually be a good sign. It usually means the
body or the emotions are trying to clear out something that shouldn’t be
there, and the pet’s personality is working to reconnect with its Soul.
If this should happen, continue using the remedies, and even add some
Rescue® Remedy (described in the List of BachTM Original Flower
Remedies below). Rescue® Remedy can be used for support, if necessary,
until the Soul connection becomes stronger again. You’ll know intuitively
when this is happening by the positive changes your pet experiences.
Animals often respond to the flower remedies even more quickly than
people do. Their course of treatment may last less than ten days, while
people may have to treat themselves for a much longer time.
There may even be times when both people and pets should be treated
simultaneously. Our pets often do seem to take on, or mirror, our own
physical and emotional symptoms in an effort to help us, or to be more like
us, so it may be that both the person and the animal will benefit from using
the same flower essence at the same time to bring both of them back into
balance.

General information, administration, and dosages

Most of the information in this section is applicable to both people and

pets, but you’ll also find additional recommendations specifically for
administering the remedies to pets in the next section.
• BachTM Original Flower Remedies are available in liquid form
preserved in an alcohol base (usually brandy, but sometimes cognac).
• Rescue® Remedy is available as a liquid and also as a cream for topical
application. Recently, the company has also developed an alcohol-free liquid
version of Rescue® Remedy to use for pets (and also one for children) who
don’t tolerate the taste of alcohol well. If you can’t find the new alcohol-free
product in health food stores, check the website, www.nelsonstore.com.
• You can also use the liquid form of a flower remedy as a topical application
by applying it directly from the stock bottle (described below). For a person,
the drops can be applied directly to pulse points (wrist, temples, neck) or to
energy points (the locations of each chakra as described in Chapter 13,
Color and Light). For a pet, the drops can be applied to the paws, ears, lips,
gums, forehead, or tummy.
• Flower essence drops can also be added to creams and baths, or prepared
for use as a whole body mist. Additionally, you can prepare a compress
using the liquid form if you need to treat irritated skin or areas of
inflammation. Directions are provided further below.
• There are two kinds of bottles: stock bottles and treatment bottles. Stock
bottles, which you buy in a health food store, contain the concentrated form
of the flower essence preserved with a little brandy or cognac. A treatment
bottle is an empty 1 oz bottle that has a dropper. It’s filled with water to
which a few concentrated drops from the stock bottle are then added.
Remedies are usually administered from a treatment bottle unless there’s a
particular reason to use the concentrated drops directly from a stock bottle.
• One suggestion is to fill a treatment bottle ¾ full with natural spring water
or still mineral water. Add two drops of each remedy you’ve chosen, for up
to seven remedies. If you’re going to be carrying the treatment bottle around
with you, or you can’t refrigerate it, or you won’t use up the contents within
about a week, also add a spoonful of brandy or apple cider vinegar to the
treatment bottle as a preservative.
• The alcohol content in a treatment bottle is so slight that even people who
are sensitive to alcohol don’t usually need to be concerned about it, and pets
usually don’t mind the taste. However, there’s also another way to prepare a
treatment bottle. Fill an empty 1 oz bottle ½ full with vegetable glycerine,
which is used to preserve herbal preparations. Add 2 drops from each stock
bottle you’re using. Fill the remainder of the treatment bottle with pure
water.
• Only a small quantity is necessary to act as a dose from either a stock bottle
or a treatment bottle.
• The common recommendation for people and for small to medium sized
pets is to take 4 drops, a minimum of four times daily, from the contents of a
treatment bottle. However, two times daily may also be effective. Smaller
pets will require fewer drops while larger pets may require more.
• Another way to use flower essences is to administer 2 drops of each flower
essence directly from the stock bottles themselves. This is particularly
appropriate in acute cases, although pets may not care for the stronger
alcohol taste.
• It’s most effective to take the remedies on an empty stomach and with a
clear mouth. Ideally, both pets and people should avoid eating food or
drinking beverages, or using products such as medications, nutritional
supplements, herbs, toothpaste, and mouthwash for at least 15 to 30 minutes,
or longer, both before and after using flower essences so the remedies can
achieve their full effect. However, it isn’t always possible to do so in every
situation, so you may need to adjust the timing occasionally. A practical
four-times-a-day schedule might be the first thing in the morning, before
noon, around 5:00 p.m., and before bedtime.
• The most effective route of administration is to put the drops on, or under,
the tongue and hold them there for a few moments before swallowing. Try
not to let the dropper touch the tongue. Putting the dropper back into the
bottle after it has touched the tongue won’t spoil what’s in the bottle,
although any digestive enzyme residue from the tongue which is left on the
dropper could possibly alter the taste of the contents somewhat.
• The drops may be taken in a teaspoon of spring water, or put into a small
amount of water and sipped occasionally.
• If you’re putting the drops in water, it’s probably best to use spring water
or still mineral water and avoid distilled water. Distilled water isn’t suitable
because it’s like dead water.
• While water is probably best to use, the drops may be put into fruit juice if
you’re giving your pet something like Noni or Morinda Citrifolia juice, or
into other beverages, even warm ones like green tea.
• In emergencies, you can give a dose every 10-30 minutes until you see
improvement.
• If a case is severe, but not an emergency, you may want to administer the
remedy every half hour.
• If a condition has persisted for a long time, then treatment every two or
three hours, give or take, may be appropriate.
• For a pet or a person who’s unconscious, moisten their lips frequently with
a remedy. Rescue® Remedy (described below) is always a good choice in a
case of this type.
Storing flower essences
Flower essences, in both stock bottles and treatment bottles, should be
kept away from electro-magnetic fields that are produced by TV sets,
microwave ovens, speakers, and other electrical appliances. Exposure to
direct sunlight and high temperatures should also be avoided. The bottles
should always be closed tightly between treatments.
***
The following are suggested guidelines that come from The Bach Center.
• Always use 2 drops from a single remedy stock bottle regardless of
whether they’re placed on the tongue, into a treatment bottle, or into a glass
of water. The principle is that the amount of flower essence you take is not
as important as it is to be sure you’re taking the minimum amount.
• Always use 4 drops from a Rescue® Remedy stock bottle whether the drops
are placed on the tongue, put into a treatment bottle, or into a glass of water.
This is done to assure that you receive a full minimum dose since there are
five single remedies in Rescue® Remedy.
• Always use 4 drops at a time from a treatment bottle of any flower essence
or combination of essences, including Rescue® Remedy.

Specific directions for animals

In Water
• You may add drops of each prescribed essence to your pet’s water bowl
and let him drink it periodically throughout the day. The most common
dosage is 2-4 drops of each essence. Very small animals may require only 1-
2 drops while small to medium size animals might use 2-4 drops. Large dogs
or giant breeds (such as Irish Wolfhounds, Great Danes, or St. Bernards)
may use 6 drops. For even larger animals, such as cows and horses, 10-15
drops may be appropriate.
• You may want to put the drops into only a very small amount of water to be
sure your pet consumes the entire amount. Remember to put down additional
water as soon as your pet has finished the treated water.
Internally
• Rub the liquid remedy on the gums, or place drops under the pet’s
tongue.
• Remember that cats or small dogs may not like the alcohol taste. If they
don’t, then dilute the drops with more water first, or use vegetable glycerite
when preparing the treatment bottle as described above.
• Put drops on treats for your pet (although administering them away from
food is still preferable). Or put the flower essence drops in a small bowl, add
one or two teaspoons of water, and then add two or three drops of baby food
pureed vegetables to entice your pet to lap it up.
Externally
• Dab the drops on the pads of the paws, behind the ears, or on the
forehead.
• Place the drops in the palms of your hand, then apply them by gently
petting the animal as close to the skin as possible. The tummy is a good area
for this.
• Put drops in a misting bottle and spray the air the animal breathes. This is a
good method to use for cats, reptiles, and birds.
• Put several drops of the flower essences from the stock bottles into a pet’s
bath water.
• Make a compress to apply to skin irritations or inflammation by using 6
drops from the stock bottle in 1 pint of water.

List of BachTM Original Flower Remedies

The thirty-eight flowers identified by Dr. Bach as being the most

effective to restore balance and harmony through conscious awareness are
listed below. They’re made in England but are available in many countries.
Remember to let your intuition guide you when making choices for your
pet or for yourself. In addition there are some helpful guidelines in Chapter
24, How To Pre-Test Remedies, to help you determine ahead of time which
ones might be most effective.
AGRIMONY
• For concealed distress where there’s panting and rapid heart rate ASPEN
• For unknown fear or terror in an animal; especially indicated when treating
wild or nervous animals
CENTAURY
• For lack of assertiveness; beneficial for animals who are submissive and
overly compliant
CERATO
• For pets with lack of confidence, or those seeking contact approval
CHERRY PLUM
• For extreme tension or stress; for example, when a terrified animal is
trapped
CHESTNUT BUD
• For instilling effective learning patterns during training; to stimulate the
animal’s emotional memory and ability to retain learned behaviors without
repeating mistakes
CHICORY
• Especially indicated for younger animals such as whining puppies or
kittens; also indicated when the illness may be psychosomatic, or a pet is
frequently trying to get attention
CLEMATIS
• For absentmindedness; promotes alertness
CRAB APPLE
• For uncleanliness, infection, or poisoning; restores cleanliness and dignity
ELM
• For inadequacy or being overwhelmed
GENTIAN
• For discouragement, or in case of a setback
GORSE
• For hopelessness, or for feelings of despair
HEATHER
• For loneliness; might show as inattentiveness; promotes quiet composure
HOLLY
• For jealous pets, especially when jealousy involves another pet vying for
the attention of the caretaker; fosters trust
HONEYSUCKLE
• For homesickness, or help in adjusting to present circumstances
HORNBEAM
• For weakness and unresponsiveness; restores vitality
IMPATIENS
• For nervous, high-strung, impulsive animals
LARCH
• For loss of confidence
MIMULUS
• For nervous conditions in animals and for animals with fears and anxieties;
good for jittery horses, or for shy animals who hide from people
MUSTARD
• For depression and gloominess
OAK
• For lack of resilience in normally strong animals
OLIVE
• For mental and physical exhaustion or fatigue
PINE
• For guilt or apologetic behavior; restores positive attitude RED
CHESTNUT
• For over-protectiveness; restores confidence and trust
RED CLOVER
• For calming hysterical animals, particularly cats; can be used effectively
when taking an animal to a veterinarian for treatment
ROCK ROSE
• For terror and hysteria; restores courage and calm
SCLERANTHUS
• For imbalance and uncertainty; restores stability and balance
STAR OF BETHLEHEM
• For abused animals, or any animal who has suffered injury or trauma
SWEET CHESTNUT
• For extreme mental and physical distress when intense pain and distress are
evident
VERBAIN
• For hyperactive, overly tense animals
VINE
• For animals that dominate younger or weaker animals WALNUT
• Beneficial before and after a major move; helps break links to old places of
residence; also good for animals after giving birth WATER VIOLET
• For aloofness or indifference; restores social contact
WHITE CHESTNUT
• For preoccupation, restlessness, or sleeplessness
WILD OAT
• For lack of direction or unfulfilled potential
WILD ROSE
• For apathetic, listless animals
WILLOW
• For maliciousness and spitefulness; restores good temper RESCUE®
REMEDY
• This combination of five different flowers is the best known of the
Bach Flower essences. It’s counted as a single remedy and is the one to
always have on hand, especially for use in emergencies. Use it for any
situation where there’s stress, injury, or trauma for dogs, cats, or people.

The Flower Essence Society

For many years, The BachTM Original Flower Remedies were the only
form of flower essence treatment that was available. While the BachTM
Original Flower Essences are still what we might call “the gold standard,”
another key provider of quality flower essences is the Flower Essence
Society (FES), located in the Sierra Nevada foothills in Nevada City,
California. They have an extensive practitioner research program and are
continually researching new flower essences.
The Flower Essence Society makes a large number of essences known as
FES Quintessentials. Several are worth mentioning individually.
YARROW
• is effective for protecting both people and animals from the effects of
harmful environmental influences such as radiation, pollution, and
electromagnetic radiation (for example from computers and televisions). It
also protects against negative emotions that can affect health and well-being.
Animals are particularly sensitive to picking up the emotions and moods of
the people around them. Emotional stress in animals, picked up from the
family, can manifest as psychological stress such as inappropriate urination,
chewing excessively on themselves, or feather plucking in birds. Yarrow can
often help in these situations.
BLEEDING HEART
• is another very useful FES flower remedy that, as it suggests, helps heal
emotional upsets of the heart. It’s invaluable to use after experiencing any
kind of grief, such as the loss of a family member or a pet. It’s helpful for
both people and animals suffering from that kind of a loss. It’s also
beneficial for breaking undue emotional attachments to caretakers,
especially when whining cats or moping dogs are waiting for their owners to
return. It can be used for a female animal when her puppies or kittens leave
to go to other homes, or for any pet whose human “parents” are going
through a divorce or separation. Animals are affected just as much as people
by the stress and painful emotions of these events and may therefore need
the help of a flower essence to regain their inner balance.
OREGON GRAPE
• is an essence revered for its ability to replace feelings of fear,
apprehension, and hostility with optimistic and positive expectations of
others. It’s useful for animals who have been abused or neglected in the past,
or for animals who have become wary of humans and expect the worst.
SELF HEAL, also known as HEAL-ALL
• stimulates the animal’s self healing mechanism and is an overall remedy
for any animal who has been sick and is in recovery.

Other flower essences

You may also find flower essences prepared by groups other than the
Bach Center and the Flower Essence Society. Some of these other products
include remedies already described in the two lists above, as well as the
following helpful essences:
ARNICA
• For shock, trauma, illness, injury, and recovery from surgery
BEECH
• For intolerance and bad temper
BORAGE
• For lifting the spirit of an animal who may be depressed because of illness
or old age
CHAMOMILE
• For barking dogs; also for emotional upset accompanied by stomach
distress such as gas or vomiting
COSMOS
• For encouraging interspecies communication; helpful where different
kinds of animals are gathered; useful when training animals or establishing
psychic bonds in one-on-one relationships; indicated for both animal and
caretaker
DILL
• For a sense of overwhelm or confusion or when an animal is over
stimulated; useful during travel or schedule upsets
LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING
• For wounded or deeply suffering animals who may not live MARIPOSA
LILY
• For assisting mother-infant bonding, especially if the animal is being
introduced to a surrogate mother; also good for young animals in a new
home or for abandoned animals
PENSTEMON
• For illness or trauma; gives inner strength during adverse circumstances
PINK YARROW
• For pets who take on, or mirror, the emotions of their human caretakers
QUAKING GRASS
• For helping animals adjust when they’re living together in a group or herd;
especially important when a new animal is introduced to a pack or a family
SNAPDRAGON
• For animals who bite; especially indicated for aggressive tendencies in
horses such as biting and sucking
TIGER LILY
• For hostile or aggressive cats or dogs; for wild or untamed animals * * *
Using search topics such as “flower essences for pets”, “Bach Flower
Remedies”, or “Flower Essence Society”, you can obtain a wealth of further
information about flower essences on the Internet. Please note that when
doing a complex search containing multiple words or complex terms, you
must use quotation marks before and after the entire term you choose to use
and not use any other punctuation inside the quotes. For that reason, a
number of the periods, commas, and semicolons associated with certain
Internet search topics have intentionally been placed outside of the quotes.
Or, look for books on the subject in health food stores, regular
bookstores, and online, especially Bach Flower Remedies for Animals by
Helen Graham and Gregory Vlamis.
***
Earlier in this chapter, we said that when negative conditions are
corrected—when the personality reconnects with its Soul qualities—disease
can disappear.
But will diseases and their symptoms disappear in every case? Most of
the time they will when the personality is able to reconnect with its Soul’s
purpose. But what if the Soul is ready to leave this earthly experience and
the timing is in alignment with its higher purpose? When this happens,
there’s no remedy that can, or should, be used to change the course of
events. This is the time when you must detach from your desire for a
different outcome and accept the fact that, when a pet leaves this experience,
it’s part of the balance and harmony of the Universe.
You may use the appropriate flower essences and other remedies as a
loving form of support for your pets during their final illnesses and
transitions, but you should never interfere with the Soul purpose of your pets
by using remedies to prolong this earthly experience when their time has
definitely come to leave it.
Instead, know deeply within yourself that you’ve done everything you
should. Release any sense of feeling that you should, or could, have done
more. Then use the appropriate flower essences to bring yourself into
harmony and balance with the normal ebb and flow of life as you progress
through your healing after the loss of your pet.
Always remember, our pets feel it’s not the quantity of time they spend with
us; it’s the quality of time that’s most important.
2: Essential Oils
E
ssential oils are one of the oldest, most effective, and easy-to-use healing
therapies available to us today. They have their roots in the ancient histories
of several cultures, but, as you’ll soon see, modern scienctific research
clearly shows us why they’re such powerful and effective healing tools for
everyday use.
In fact, many animals respond amazingly well to the proper and safe use
of therapeutic grade essential oils. They become calm and serene when
they’re allowed to inhale the scent, or when they’re receiving a massage
with oils. Wounds often heal faster, blood sugars can be lowered, tummy
distress can be soothed, allergies can be alleviated, itching from bites and
skin conditions can be relieved, and the pesky problem of fleas can also be
reduced—or sometimes eliminated altogether—with the use of these
beneficial oils.
Therapeutic grade essential oils are particularly effective because they
don’t treat just the symptoms; they actually help to relieve the cause. This is
particularly true for those oils that help to release emotional feelings,
including those associated with traumatic incidents that a pet, or a person,
may have experienced in the past. Oils that help release feelings of fear,
anxiety, and lack of trust can be very useful for helping pets more quickly
become comfortable in their new homes.
The oils can be used, with the proper precautions, for almost any animal,
but they’re particularly effective for dogs and horses. Cats may benefit from
using certain essential oils, also. However, they’re so sensitive that some
extra special precautions have to be observed when using any oils for them.
Very small animals, such as birds, hamsters, gerbils, ferrets, etc., have also
been treated with essential oils, but because of their delicate size, it’s very
important to know exactly how to use essential oils safely on these small
creatures.
In this chapter, we’ll take a quick look at the interesting history of
essential oils and the various meanings of aromatherapy. Then we’ll explore
the power of essential oils and why this type of therapy is so important and
so effective.
 In the next chapter, we’ll talk about how to distinguish between
therapeutic grade essential oils and those oils that may be adulterated, and,
consequently, not effective for healing purposes.
In the last two chapters about this topic, you’ll find important guidelines
to help you safely use the power of essential oils for a variety of pets (the art
of aromatherapy). There will also be lists of oils that are particularly
beneficial for animals, and when to consider using each one of them.
Although initially you may be looking only for remedies to use for your
pets, you may find that essential oils will also be beneficial for you. The key
to achieving effective results for your pets, and for yourself, is to be certain
you’re using only therapeutic grade essential oils. You’ll see this term used
very frequently in each of the essential oil chapters because it’s so important.

A short history of aromatherapy

From the ancient past to the present

The Egyptians may have been the first to recognize and record the many
potential uses of essential oils, but ancient texts from Chinese and Indian
cultures, plus over 180 references in the Bible, also provide us with
information about the extensive history of fragrant oil use, both for
enjoyment and for healing.
While these oils have been in continuous use in Middle Eastern and
Eastern cultures throughout the centuries, they’ve only gained recognition in
the European and Western world within approximately the past hundred
years. The discovery of their effectiveness in modern times came about quite
unexpectedly.
In July, 1910, a French chemist, Dr. René-Maurice Gattefossé, Ph.D.,
was severely burned in a laboratory explosion. In 1937, he wrote about that
event in his book, Aromatherapy, saying that after extinguishing the flames
on a grassy lawn, “both my hands were covered with rapidly developing gas
gangrene.” He also wrote that “just one rinse with lavender essence stopped
the gasification of the tissue. This treatment was followed by profuse
sweating and healing which began the next day.” Dr. Gattefossé continued to
apply pure lavender oil to the burned area, and soon it healed completely
without even the trace of a scar.
He’d been analyzing oils, especially for cosmetic use, for some time
before the accident, but based on the favorable outcome he experienced, he
now did further analysis on lavender oil and found that it contained many
identifiable chemical properties, or chemical constituents, that were
responsible for promoting healing.
He then shared his findings with Dr. Jean Valnet, MD, of Paris, France.
When Dr. Valnet ran out of antibiotics during the war, he decided to try
using essential oils, and did so with amazing results, saving the lives of some
soldiers who probably would have died if they’d received only traditional
antibiotics.
Two of Dr. Valnet’s medical students, Dr. Paul Belaiche and Dr. Jean
Claude Lapraz, subsequently expanded his work. Their research contributed
significantly to developing techniques for treating infectious diseases with
essential oils. That’s because they discovered that essential oils contain
antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, and antiseptic properties.
Not only that, but they also found that the oils increase the oxygen levels
in the blood, and act as carriers to deliver nutrients to the cells of the body.
Since viruses, bacteria, and other microorganisms can’t grow in an
oxygenrich environment, and cells can regenerate themselves if they have
the right nutrients, just think about the possible health benefits of using
therapeutic grade essential oils, both for your pets and for yourself.
Today, modern science in many parts of the world continues to discover
and document new findings. We now know there are anywhere from 80 to
300 chemical constituents in each oil, and thousands of these constituents
and aromatic molecules have already been identified and registered.
Documented research also indicates that most viruses, bacteria, and fungi
can’t live in the presence of essential oils that are high in phenols, carvacrol,
thymol, and terpenes.
This kind of scientific evidence, plus the wealth of anecdotal evidence
demonstrating their everyday effectiveness, clearly highlights the potential
benefits we can all enjoy from using therapeutic grade essential oils.
Aromatherapy—multiple interpretations
The word “aromatherapy” was probably first used by Dr. Gattefossé
when he was doing research on the healing properties of essential oils, but
today it’s a term that’s come into very common use. However, depending on
where you live, it has some very different meanings.
In the French model, the use of aromatic medicine is recognized as a
medical specialty. Oils are prescribed for both topical and internal use.
In the German model, the primary emphasis is on scent or fragrance, so oils
are highly valued for their aromatic benefits and their strong effects on the
brain.
In English speaking cultures, however, the idea of “aromatherapy” has
traditionally been associated only with relaxing full-body massage to relieve
stress—the kind of massage that uses essential oils diluted in pure vegetable
oils. This concept definitely doesn’t measure up to the same type of
therapeutic use found in the French and German models.
The benefits of the French and German models have subsequently come to
be accepted gradually, spreading to many other parts of the entire world. In
the United States, holistic practitioners, as well as knowledgeable
healthconscious people, regularly use essential oils for physical and
emotional healing purposes with great success. And the therapeutic use of
essential oils for animals continues to expand.
Why is the use of essential oils called aromatherapy?
If we think of “aroma” as meaning “fragrance,” and “therapy” as
meaning “treatment,” it’s easy to see that the word “aromatherapy” means
“treating with fragrance.”
Consequently, aromatherapy is a very appropriate term to describe the
use of essential oils. That’s because essential oils are the fragrant essences
distilled from plants, and essential oils can be used to alleviate the
discomforts of a wide variety of diseases and conditions.
To expand on the initial meaning, we could also say aromatherapy is the
practice of “treating” with an inhaled fragrance.
Inhalation is very effective because pure essential oil molecules have the
ability to easily pass through the cell membranes of the nose and quickly
enter into the bloodstream. Once they’ve reached the bloodstream, they can
transport oxygen and nutrients into all of the cells of the body. This is
particularly beneficial for physical support.
Equally important is what essential oils can do to influence moods and
emotions. The amygdala is a small gland in the head, located approximately
behind the pituitary and pineal glands. It’s the memory center for fears and
traumas.
When this gland is stimulated with appropriate fragrances, it becomes
possible to release the emotional effects of past fears and traumas. So far as
we know, fragrances are the best way to trigger a response in this gland. This
is one reason a pet may respond well to essential oils that are diffused into
the air, especially if the animal has been traumatized in the past.
But remember, inhalation isn’t the only beneficial way to use aromatherapy.
According to the French model, topical applications and internal use are also
highly effective means for using therapeutic grade essential oils.

The power of essential oils

What makes essential oils so beneficial?

While we may look at various plants, bushes, shrubs, and trees in their
natural state and enjoy their beauty, we seldom think about the fact that
they’re actually unique self-contained chemical factories.
That’s because the fluids (the oils) in plants contain oxygen, plus trace
elements of nutrients, horomones, enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and
antibodies. They also contain antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral,
antimicrobial, anti-infectious, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and immune
stimulating properties.
The ancient Egyptians developed some improved methods early on to
extract this precious oil essence from the flowers, roots, stems, leaves, and
seeds of plants, and from the bark, leaves, and roots of trees and shrubs.
Today, therapeutic grade oils are distilled using much more modern and
sophisticated techniques, and we’ve gained significant new understandings
about how and why they work.
Do essential oils actually heal? It’s not the oils themselves that do the
healing. Their role is to support the body’s ability to heal itself. When even
one drop is inhaled, or applied to the soles of the feet of a person, or to the
pads of the paws, or to the tummy of an animal, the beneficial effects of that
single drop can travel throughout the entire body within about twenty
minutes. Sometimes the effect is even faster.
Every cell in the body has internal programming that tells it exactly what
to do to become healthy again, but the cells have to rely on receiving the
proper nutrients to do this. Sometimes, they can do their work in an almost
miraculous way when they receive the added benefits of the oxygen and the
nutrients found in plant oils.
However, without those extra nutrients and oxygen, it’s much more
difficult for the cells to act on their internal programming, and sometimes
it’s even impossible if they’ve already been severely damaged. But with the
help of extra oxygen and nutrients, the cells can often bring about significant
healing changes.
 One of the most important functions essential oils perform, in addition to
removing toxins, is to bring beneficial oxygen and nutrients all the way to
the inside of the cells. This is very different from the action of most other
substances, such as vitamins and minerals. These reach the outside of the
cell walls, but if the cell is unable to absorb them because the molecules are
too large, or the cell is already quite damaged, those substances may not be
of much benefit.
However, pure essential oils, because they’re made up of such tiny
molecules, are able to penetrate the cell walls. This means they can nourish
even damaged and diseased cells from deep inside. The cells themselves can
then make effective repairs using the nutrients they’ve received.
But pure essential oils aren’t useful only for diseased or damaged cells.
They’re also beneficial for healthy cells because they act in a preventive way
to help keep the immune system strong.
Essential oils have another particularly valuable benefit in a world where
traditional antibiotics often lose their effectiveness. Many strains of bacteria
have successfully been able to mutate in such a way that pharmaceutical
antibiotics, which were effective at one time, are now powerless to combat
them. But so far as is known today, bacteria and viruses have not been able
to mutate against the unique antibacterial and antiviral properties of pure
therapeutic grade essential oils.
There’s frequency, and then there’s frequency
One reason essential oils work so well is that they have a measurable
frequency, and their frequency is in harmony with the energetic frequencies
of both animals and people. The oils work in a synchronized way with
animal and people energy because their frequency is coherent and harmonic.
Nutritious foods and herbs are another source of coherent and harmonic
frequency, which is why they’re also beneficial for both animal and people
bodies. Some of the frequencies for fresh produce, dry herbs, and fresh herbs
measure in the 12 to 27 hertz range. But the frequency of therapeutic grade
essential oils is even higher than that of herbs and foods, measuring in the
52-320 hertz range.
The kind of frequency found in essential oils, foods, and herbs is both
beneficial and entirely different from the kind of frequency given off by
TV’s, microwaves, telephones, fluorescent lights, etc. That type of electrical
energy is incoherent and chaotic, and it may even disrupt the body’s natural
flow of energy.
 The average frequency of a human body is around 62-78 hertz. When
we’re sick, our frequency level drops and our immune systems begin to
weaken. The same is true for animals. Some of the tested frequencies in
humans have shown that colds start at 58 hz, flu symptoms at 57 hz, and
cancer at 42 hz.
When the frequency of a human or an animal body drops, it means that
disease organisms have a favorable environment in which to grow and
flourish. If we can change this environment by raising the frequency of the
body high enough, with the help of therapeutic grade essential oils, we can
deprive harmful organisms of the opportunity to grow and flourish. This
means we may be able to prevent some diseases from occuring in our pets
and in ourselves, or be able to heal more quickly from those diseases which
may already be present.
While therapeutic grade essential oils may not always be able to keep
body frequencies from dropping initially, they can definitely be helpful when
it comes to supplying either the human or animal body with the oxygen and
nutrients that will then help the body manage its own recovery.
What can essential oil properties do for us and for our pets?
In his book, Natural Home Health Care Using Essential Oils, French
physician, Dr. Daniel Pénoël, says that pure therapeutic grade essential oils
can be helpful in eight key areas:
• Congenital: for hereditary conditions and complications from
pregnancy
• Organic: for the organ systems of the body including heart, lungs, liver,
kidneys, spleen, digestive system, etc.
• Bioelectric: for balancing pH, increasing electrical resistance, and reducing
oxidation within body fluids
• Microbial: for keeping the flora and fauna that exist in our bodies in
balance; eliminating the bad while preserving the good
• Immunity: for stimulating, regulating, and modulating immune system
response
• Structural: for bones, joints, muscular system; especially for the spine
• Glandular: for regulating the network of endocrine glands throughout the
body
• Neuro-psychic: for nervous system functions and all the functions directly
related to, and controlled by, the brain
Since the oils can work on several levels at the same time, they’re beneficial
in multiple ways:
• they help maintain optimum health
• they’re a form of preventive therapy
• they can be used as a treatment for chronic and acute illnesses
• they alleviate emotional disturbances
• they’re helpful for enhancing spiritual growth and openness of spirit.
Are essential oils safe to use?
Pure essential oils are safe to use. They don’t upset the body’s natural
balance, they don’t leave any toxic residue in the body, and they don’t cause
side effects as many traditional veterinary and human medications do.
Why is this true? Pharmaceutical medications often use only one or two
components which have been isolated from a plant. But in a pure essential
oil, all of the chemical components are present. This provides complete
balance and harmony.
The side effects in pharmaceutical products sometimes occur because the
other chemicals necessary to keep the isolated chemicals in balance are no
longer present. But in an essential oil, if one constituent exerts too strong an
effect, another constituent may block or counteract it.
This doesn’t mean, though, that you can simply apply every essential oil
in just any manner or any amount, or that every oil is safe to use for every
pet. It’s very important to learn the basics about each remedy you want to
use, and then use it with care.
***
Next, we’ll look at how to choose essential oils for their therapeutic
qualities, and then we’ll explore some guidelines for using essential oils
safely.
3: Before Buying Essential Oils

N
ot every essential oil product on the market today retains its therapeutic
qualities all the way from tiny seedling, to harvested plant, and on through
the distillation process, into the bottle. That’s why it’s very important to be
able to recognize and select only the highest quality oils to use for your pets,
or for yourself, for healing purposes.
Now that you know what makes essential oils so beneficial, and what
some of their helpful properties can do for you and your pets, you may be
ready to run out to your nearest health food store or fragrance shop to see
what you can find. But it would be to your advantage not to buy anything
until you read this chapter first.
Before you make your purchase, you need to know how to distinguish
between high quality oils and low quality adulterated oils, and how to tell a
beneficial therapeutic grade oil from one that’s only recreational or food
grade.
How will you know if an essential oil is pure or adulterated?
About 98% of all essential oils are used in the perfume and cosmetic
industry. The standards for distilling oils for these purposes are usually
considerably lower than the standards for distilling oils that maintain their
healing properties. For this reason, most oils on the market will be
adulterated.
A company may even run the same batch of plant material through more
than one distillation to squeeze out every drop they possibly can. The
properties that remain in an oil after the second or third run may be
acceptable for use in perfumes and cosmetics, but those properties are no
longer present in sufficient levels to be therapeutic.
This means that if you’re looking for oils with therapeutic properties,
you need to be very discerning about the brands you choose.
Not everything on store shelves is of equal quality, even those that say “pure
and natural.” Also, store personnel cannot usually be relied on to provide
accurate information because typically they’re not well versed when it
comes to understanding the differences between oils for enjoyment and oils
for healing, and how to distinguish between the two types.
How plants are grown, harvested, and distilled, for use in the production of
essential oils, has almost everything to do with whether or not an oil will
have the therapeutic qualities you’re looking for, so when you’re buying
essential oils, it’s very important to select them from a company that
provides clear and detailed information about all of their processes.
What are the characteristics of therapeutic, food grade, and recreational
oils?
• Recreational grade oils provide a pleasant aroma and can have relaxing
effects. They may be less expensive, but that’s because they may also be of
the lowest quality.
• Food grade oils are usually of a higher quality and can be used for cooking
and seasoning.
• Therapeutic grade oils, however, have properties that can help the body
facilitate its own healing process—physically, emotionally, and spiritually.
They can also be added to foods, or used for recreational purposes.
How can you tell the difference?
If you want to be certain an oil, or an oil blend, has therapeutic properties
that will benefit you or your pet, here are some guidelines you can use.
Therapeutic grade essential oils will have these characteristics.
• The quality of the oil will be maintained all the way from seed, through
growth conditions, harvesting, distilling, and bottling.
• The plants will be organically grown according to high standards.
• They’ll be distilled only at low temperatures and under low pressure within
24 hours after being harvested.
• The equipment will be constructed in such a way that steam from the
distillation process won’t be collected in with the pure oil.
• The equipment will be made of a costly food grade stainless steel (instead
of copper or aluminum) so the oils won’t be chemically altered in the
process.
• No solvents or other chemical agents will be used in the distillation
process.
• No chemical extenders will be added; only the pure oil will be collected
and used.
• Oils from different harvests won’t smell exactly alike from batch to batch
the same way synthetic oils do.
• Some pure essential oils that are high in waxes may leave a stain or a spot
if spilled, while oils produced synthetically with solvents or diluting agents
may not.
• The company will label their products with the Latin botanical name of the
plant, which helps to identify the properties of each oil. This can be very
useful especially when there are several different types that share a common
name (such as eucalyptus radiata, eucalyptus globulus, Roman chamomile,
German chamomile, etc.).
• Batches of oils will regularly be tested by at least one, or more than one,
AFNOR certified outside laboratory.
• The quality of the oils will meet the requirements of AFNOR (Association
of French Normalization Organization Regulation) and ISO (International
Standards Organization).
Recreational oils, on the other hand, will likely have the following
characteristics.
• They won’t necessarily be organic.
• Chemical fertilizers and pesticides may be used to treat the plants, which
will reduce the quality and effectiveness of the oil produced.
• Before being distilled, the plants may lose some of their beneficial
properties by being left in hot sunny fields for several days after being
harvested.
• Plants may be distilled quickly under high pressure and at high
temperatures.
• Steam from the distillation process may collect in with the oil.
• Solvents may be used to extract as much oil as possible from the plant, but
solvents adulterate the oils.
• Chemical extenders may further adulterate the pure oil, though they do
generate greater quantities and higher revenue for the manufacturer; this is
particularly true for Lavender oil.
• The solvents and chemical extenders in oils produced this way may cause
burning, skin irritation, and rashes.
• The oils may be called by a familiar name, and they may even have a
similar scent; this is often true for lavender, though another form of the
plant, with entirely different properties, may have been used instead (for
example, using lavandin but calling the finished product “lavender”).
• The oils will not be produced according to AFNOR and ISO standards.
When is a bargain not a bargain?
 Lavender oil is readily available in many forms, and it’s added to a
multitude of products such as shampoos, skin care preparations, and
soothing creams. It’s very tempting to buy lavender oil at the most
economical price, but the lower the price, the less quality you’ll likely be
buying.
Consider that there’s twice as much, or more, lavender product sold and
used than there is lavender grown in the entire world. So where do producers
of lavender oil ever find enough to meet the high demand? Two ways to
produce more lavender oil than the amount of lavender actually grown are to
increase the quantity by adding chemical extenders, or by using a hybrid
form of lavender from the plant called lavandin.
The importance of using pure therapeutic grade lavender oil is clearly
illustrated by the fact that pure lavender oil will heal even severe burns, but
lavandin will have the opposite effect, and can even increase the intensity of
the burn because it usually contains higher levels of camphor. Even though it
smells very similar to lavender, it has an entirely different chemical
composition.
If the label says “lavender,” you need to know whether it’s pure lavender
oil, lavandin oil, or lavender oil that’s been diluted and extended with
chemicals. If the cost of a bottle of lavender oil seems to be a wonderful
bargain, it’s probably not therapeutic grade.
Other potentially adulterated oils sometimes sold at bargain prices
include Frankincense and Melissa. Both are very costly and expensive to
prepare properly, but both may also be extended with solvents. Quality
Frankincense and Melissa oils will only be sold in small quantities, and will
be quite expensive if they’re therapeutic grade.
There’s also another consideration to keep in mind when it comes to
cost. There may be many different varieties of the same plant, but not every
variety has the same effective properties, or can provide a therapeutic effect.
Tea Tree oil is definitely in this category. Again, low cost may mean a less
effective product and no beneficial results.
***
At this point, you’re probably wondering how you’d ever find all of this
information about the oils you want to use, but companies producing high
quality oils are happy to provide it. One company that does provide detailed
documentation, and has been a leader in meeting all of the criteria for
producing therapeutic grade essential oils is Young Living Essential OilsTM
at www.youngliving.com. You may also be able to find other reputable
companies through an Internet search.
***
Now that you have an appreciation for what essential oils can do for you
and your pets, and you also know how to chose them for their therapeutic
value, we’ll explore how to use them safely and effectively in the next
chapter.
4: Using Essential Oils Safely
M
any people like to choose essential oils intuitively for their pets and for
themselves, and this is acceptable if you’re using them only for relaxation or
uplifting your pet’s or your own spirits. But pure essential oils are such
powerful and complex substances that it’s actually very important to do your
own research and study to understand how to use them safely and effectively
for healing purposes.
At times, information about essential oils may look fairly technical, but
it’s easy to learn the basics, and both people and reference guides are
available to help you.

Some general guidelines for both pets and people

The following guidelines are especially useful for first time essential oil
users, though you may want to review them from time to time, especially if
you don’t use them frequently.
• Pure essential oils are highly concentrated. Some oils may need to be
diluted before applying them, and others may always need to be diluted,
depending on their properties.
• Essential oils do not dissolve in water. You need to dilute them with some
type of pure food grade vegetable oil (almond, grapeseed, olive, etc.).
Mineral oil is not recommended for this purpose because it’s a by-product of
distilling petroleum.
• Test for any sensitivity to an oil first by applying only a single diluted drop
to a small area of the skin.
• When using oils for the first time, wait 30 minutes before trying a different
oil to be sure you know what the reaction was to the previous oil you used.
Too many oils, applied too quickly, may cause some unwanted detox
symptoms in a body that is full of toxins. After initially detoxifying the body
gradually, more than one oil can then be applied at the same time without
producing detox discomforts.
• If an oil seems to be causing any skin irritation, don’t wash it off with
water. Instead, apply a pure food grade vegetable oil (almond, grapeseed,
olive, etc.), which will effectively dilute the strength of the essential oil.
Examples of some pure essential oils that can be irritating unless they’re
sufficiently diluted before they’re applied include black pepper, cinnamon,
ginger, juniper, lemon, peppermint, pine, oregano, and thyme.
• If you have essential oils on your fingers and you inadvertently touch your
eyes, your contact lenses, your pet’s eyes, or any sensitive area of your body
or your pet’s body, there may be a stinging sensation. Again, avoid using any
water. Instead, put 1-2 drops of pure food grade oil, such as olive oil, into
the affected eye, or pour a sufficient amount of pure food grade oil onto the
sensitive area to neutralize the stinging.
• Never put drops of essential oils into the ears. Instead, put a drop or two
onto a piece of cotton or a swab, or rub some onto your finger (so it’s not
runny), and apply it only to the exposed part of the ear.
• Some essential oils are light sensitive, so the treated area of the body
should not be exposed to direct sunlight for a prolonged time. This can be
for at least 12 hours, and up to 24-48 hours in some cases. This is
particularly true when you’re using citrus-based essential oils such as
bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange, and tangerine.
• If you need to use more than one oil at a time, you may apply them, one on
top of the other, without waiting in between, once you know the effect of
using each oil by itself.
• You may mix a single oil and an oil blend together in your hand before you
apply them. However, two oil blends should not be mixed together in that
way. Doing so may alter the effects of one or the other of the blends.
• If you’re using homeopathic remedies (described in Chapter 6) for
yourself or for your pet, it’s important to avoid using the essential oils of
peppermint, eucalyptus, and black pepper, as well as those with camphor or
menthol, at the same time, because these oils may neutralize the effects of
some homeopathic remedies. You may be able to use both types of remedies
on the same day, but you should leave up to one hour between using those
oils and using a homeopathic remedy, if at all possible.
• Pure therapeutic grade essential oils are safe when they’re used
responsibly. Usually, if a person or a pet being treated with pure essential
oils seems to have some discomfort after an application, it’s not the oils
themselves that are causing that discomfort. It may be what’s called a
“healing crisis.” The oils are drawing toxins out of the cells in the body and
the person or pet is feeling the effects of those toxins as they pass through
the system on their way out. Once they’ve been eliminated, the discomfort
goes away.
• Occasionally first time users of pure essential oils may experience rashes
or allergic reactions. While this may happen because a very strong oil wasn’t
diluted first, it may also be caused by an interaction of the oil with the
residues that have collected in our bodies from the continual use of synthetic
petroleum-based personal care products. For pets, this could be caused by
the chemical residues from shampoos and flea products.
• If you’re using essential oils regularly for your pet, or for yourself, during
that time, it’s very important to avoid using any products containing
substances such as sodium lauryl sulfate, propylene glycol, aluminum salts,
benzalkonium chloride, methylene chloride, methyl isobutyl ketone, methyl
ethyl ketone, etc., or any ammonium or hydrocarbon-based chemicals that
could interact with the oils and cause undesirable or toxic interactions.
Watch for them in all kinds of personal and pet care products.
• As always, don’t attempt to self-diagnose or treat any serious disease or
injury that requires professional attention. Seek qualified help first.

Essential oils and pets

It’s important to exercise even more caution when using essential oils on
pets than it is on humans. They’re much more sensitive to the effects of
essential oils than humans are because their skin absorbs the oils at a
different rate than human skin does, and their metabolisms are so different.
For this reason, it’s important to use only the right quantity, and to dilute the
oils before applying them, especially on small size animals.
There may even be occasions when the same essential oil should be used
on both the animal and the person at the same time. This should be done
whenever an animal seems to have “taken on” the same symptoms or
diseases his or her human is experiencing.

Specific guidelines for the safe use of essential oils on pets

The following guidelines for pets are intended to be fairly conservative

for first time essential oil users. Once you’ve learned more about the power
of essential oils through your own study, or by consulting a professional,
you’ll better understand when you should, or shouldn’t, make exceptions to
these recommendations when it comes to treating your own pets.
Except for direct references to other types of pets, most of the following
guidelines apply to dogs and horses.
• Follow all of the guidelines in the general list above.
• Always have some pure food grade oil (almond, grapeseed, olive oil, etc.)
available to use for diluting.
• The smaller the pet, the more cautious you need to be. For small pets, use
the guidelines recommended for cats in that section below.
• Birds, gerbils, hamsters, ferrets, rabbits, etc. are best treated using the
hydrosols of essential oils (described in the section about cats below). Two
to four drops of a hydrosol can be put into a bowl of fresh (non-chlorinated)
drinking water for these smaller animals. Because pets of this size have such
delicate constitutions, it’s better to use hydrosols instead of using even
diluted essential oils on these pets without first seeking professional advice.
• Very small or toy breed dogs and puppies should be at least ten weeks old,
and medium to large breed puppies should be at least eight weeks old before
using essential oils on them. Hydrosols (described in the section about cats
below) would be a gentler form to use for puppies, toy breeds, and very
small dogs instead of using diluted essential oils themselves.
• For small dogs, essential oils should ALWAYS be diluted with pure food
grade oils (never mineral oil).
• In the beginning, apply the oils only to the pads of the paws until your pet
has become accustomed to them.
• Ordinarily, avoid oils which are high in phenols and ketones for small
dogs. If a professional directs you to use this type of oil, use a 90% dilution
and apply them only to the pads of the paws.
• To apply oils to large open wounds or hard-to-reach areas, put the oils into
a spray bottle and spray them directly on the location. Use only pure, non-
chlorinated water, and shake the bottle gently but thoroughly, each time
before spraying so that the oil is at least temporarily distributed throughout
the water.
• An open wound, treated with pure essential oil, should then be covered
with an ointment to seal it and protect it from infection. (See Animal
ScentsTM Ointment in the next chapter.)
• If you want to use essential oils in your pet’s bath water, remember that oils
don’t dissolve in water. They float on top of it. Mix them first with a small
amount of Epsom salts and then add that mixture to a tub of bath water.
Remember, an oil such as peppermint can cause stinging in sensitive areas.
• If there’s a need to use the oils of peppermint, rosemary, niaouli, melaleuca
(Tea Tree), spearmint, ravensara, or eucalyptus, be sure they’re highly
diluted before applying them.
• For pets or people who are prone to seizures, or who have epilepsy or high
blood pressure, avoid the following oils, or use them with extra caution:
basil, fennel, hyssop, nutmeg, peppermint, rosemary, sage, tarragon, tansy,
and wintergreen.
• The essential oil to avoid using on all pets is Pennyroyal because it has a
constituent that can be highly toxic.
• The two best ways for essential oils to enter the body are through the nose
and through the skin. Some can also be used internally, but only with caution
and according to specific directions. If you’re thinking about administering
oils internally, be sure to let your regular veterinarian know what you want
to do. Also check with the provider of your oils and/or a holistic veterinarian
to determine the proper dosage for your pet’s weight and overall condition.
(See the section about internal use for animals below.)
• Be aware that while pure therapeutic grade essential oils are ordinarily safe
and beneficial to use for many pets, especially if the oils are well diluted
first, there are some oils that could be toxic if they’re used incorrectly. Do
your own research to learn about which essential oils are right for your pet,
and how much to use based on the pet’s age, weight, and condition.
• If a pet is sensitive to the use of a particular single oil, you may still be able
to use that oil if it’s contained within an oil blend.
• Treat every pet as an individual and use common sense. When in doubt,
consult a professional.
• Remember, a remedy that may work for one pet may not work for another
pet, even in the same household, or with the same problem.

Using essential oils on cats

Cats are very sensitive to strong odors. Also, their bodies can’t easily
excrete some of the chemical compounds found in essential oils because
their livers don’t have the enzymes necessary to do that job. Consequently, if
certain essential oil chemicals accumulate in a cat’s body, they can cause a
toxic reaction and even death.
Symptoms indicating a toxic build-up include being clumsy,
uncoordinated, despondent, vomiting, drooling, being partially paralyzed, or
acting dazed. If this happens, it’s important to seek veterinary care and blood
testing to see if the liver enzymes are elevated.
To prevent a toxic overload, it’s best to avoid any oils for cats that
contain phenols, ketones, pinenes, and limonene. The following list is not
all-inclusive, but it will acquaint you with some of the oils that should not be
used on cats.

Essential oils to avoid for cats

Basil Lime Sage Bergamot Mandarin Savory Birch Melaluca (Tea

Tree) Spruce
Cinnamon Orange Tangerine Clove Oregano Thyme Eucalyptus
Pennyroyal Wintergreen Grapefruit Peppermint Wormwood Lemon
Pine Any fir oils
As you do your own research, you’ll notice that different authors
recommend different procedures, and sometimes even different oils to use,
or avoid, for cats.
A number of references say never massage oils directly into a cat’s skin
or fur; only let the cat inhale the scent of the oils. Since cats are so sensitive
to fragrances, it makes good sense not to apply oils to their skin and fur
where the scent would remain for a long time, and where the cat would have
to metabolize whatever amount of oil was applied.
Other professional aromatherapists indicate that some oils are acceptable
to apply, in very well diluted form, at least on the bottom of a cat’s paws.
You should check with your regular veterinarian, a holistic veterinarian,
and/or the company that makes the oils you’re using before using this
technique for the first time.
So how can you safely use essential oils on cats?
The safest method—hydrosols
The safest method for administering essential oils to cats (and other
small animals) is to use hydrosols. They’re usually used as a mist in the air,
but in some cases they may actually be sprayed directly on the pet, or added
to a pet’s drinking water.
Hydrosols, sometimes called floral waters, are a by-product of the
distillation process that accumulates when the steam used for distillation
condenses back into water. This water still contains important essential oil
properties that have been captured in the steam, but it doesn’t contain the
phenols and ketones that occur in the essential oil itself.
When purchasing hydrosols, or floral waters, the important thing to
remember is that they must be the by-product of pure essential oil steam
distillation with no added chemical solvents or alcohol.
If a hydrosol has been synthetically formulated, or if the true hydrosol
has been chemically reconstituted or extended, it may have lost it’s
therapeutic benefits, or not had any in the first place. If chemicals were used,
the resulting hydrosols could be irritating to the skin and should not be
added to drinking water.
Some hydrosols that are useful for cats include:
• Calming effect—Chamomile or a combination of rose, lavender,
geranium, and neroli
• Wound cleansing—Lavender, rose, geranium, or chamomile
• Itching—Lavender, rose, or German chamomile
In general, the use of essential oils for cats is best done with professional
guidance. Even safe full strength essential oils must always be diluted first if
they absolutely need to be used on cats. And overall, the hydrosol form of
essential oils is probably the safest method to use.

How are essential oils administered to dogs and horses?

There are three primary methods for administering essential oils to dogs
and horses: direct inhalation, diffusion, and external application. In some
cases, with prior veterinary approval, therapeutic grade essential oils can
also be administered internally, as described further below.
Direct inhalation
Direct inhalation means simply smelling the oils. One easy way to do this is
to place several drops of oil on a cotton ball and place the cotton into an
empty prescription bottle or similar non-breakable container with a lid.
Remove the lid periodically and place the container near your pet’s nose.
How near will depend on how your pet reacts to the scent, and on whether or
not he or she wants to play with the cotton. You could also place some drops
of oil on a tissue or a piece of cloth.
It’s better not to use the bottle of essential oil itself for inhalation
purposes if possible. This will prevent contamination because there won’t be
a risk that the animal’s nose will touch the opening of the bottle. And in the
case of small dogs, they won’t be overwhelmed by the strength of the scent
coming from the full bottle.
Diffusion
Diffusion means dispersing the oils into the air. The best method for
doing this is to use a cold air diffuser because heating can destroy the
therapeutic qualities of the oil.
The most effective cold air diffusers run on electricity. The oil drops are
placed into a well and then dispersed in an ultra-fine vapor into the air
through a glass nebulizer.
Other cold air diffusers also operate electrically. In an ultrasonic unit, the
oil drops are put into a well filled with water, while in the non-ultrasonic
units, the oil drops are placed on a filter, and a fan in the diffuser then
circulates the fragrance into the air. There are also fan diffusers that operate
on battery power.
When you first begin diffusing a new oil, one recommendation is to
leave the diffuser on for only 10 minutes a day until you determine the
effects of the oil on your pet (or yourself). You can then increase the length
of time after you see how your pet reacts.
The size of the room and the potency of the oil being used will help
determine the length of time. You can diffuse milder oils in a larger room for
a longer period of time. However, you should diffuse stronger oils for less
time, especially in a smaller room.
Another recommendation suggests running the diffuser for 1-2 hours per
day in a kennel area, depending on the conditions (size of the area, potency
of the oil, and tolerance of the animals). However, it may be more effective
to run the diffuser for about half an hour at a time up to four times per day
once an animal, or a group of animals in a kennel, have become accustomed
to an oil.
You may need to observe caution, especially if there are birds, cats,
puppies, kittens, or other small animals in the room where an essential oil is
being diffused. It’s best not to diffuse oils in an entirely closed room in the
presence of these animals because most of them are unable to leave the room
of their own accord if the effects become too overwhelming for them.
An alternate method is to put several drops of oil into purified water in a
spray bottle. Since the oil will settle at the top of the water, shake the bottle
gently first, then spray a mist into the air in the area where the pet is
spending time. This is a more potent form of using an essential oil than using
a hydrosol. This method is also often recommended for cats, kittens, birds,
pregnant and nursing females, and for infant pets when something stronger
than a hydrosol is appropriate.
It’s also possible to use essential oils with a humidifier, but never place
oils inside of the humidifier itself. They won’t mix with the water or rise
with the water vapor, and they may damage the humidifier. Instead, place a
few drops of oil on a tissue or on a small cloth and place it in front of the
escaping steam.
External application for dogs
For dogs, follow these guidelines for external application.
• For fast absorption, oils are best applied to the pads of the paws or
between the pads.
• For topical application on small dogs: In general, dilute 1-2 essential oil
drops with 8-9 drops of a pure food grade oil (not mineral oil). Apply 3-5
drops of this diluted preparation for each application.
• For topical application on medium to larger size dogs: In general, apply 3-5
drops of neat (undiluted) essential oils for each application, unless you’re
using an oil that always requires dilution.
• Less is often better. For very small size pets, use fewer drops and/or greater
dilution. For larger size pets, you may ordinarily use more drops with less
dilution.
External application for horses
For horses, follow these guidelines.
• For topical application: Apply 20-30 drops of neat (undiluted) essential
oil for each application.
• Apply oils on the spine or auricular (acupuncture) points of the ears.
(Never put oils inside the ears.) Apply on the gums, tongue, or underneath
the top lip.
• For long-term treatments, oils can be applied 3-4 times daily. Frequent low
doses repeated during the day will be more effective than one strong dose
once a day.
Internal use for animals
Some oils that are classified as foods may also be administered
internally, but this should always be done very cautiously and with the
approval of your veterinarian.
• You should only administer oils to your pet internally under guidance
and close supervision, and with the approval of your veterinarian. A trained
aromatherapist can provide you with information to share with your vet if he
or she is not familiar with the oils you want to use.
• Not all essential oils are safe for internal use, and some that are safe, in
general, should not be used during pregnancy.
• Any oils that are used internally should be classified as GRAS oils
(Generally Regarded As Safe). Also, be absolutely certain that the oils
you’re using internally are pure and free from chemicals, solvents, and
adulterants.
• It’s best to put the essential oil drops into pure food grade oil (almond,
grapeseed, olive, etc.) for internal use. This mixture may be put into a
capsule if necessary, or mixed in with the pet’s food.
• For small dogs: Use 1-2 drops, well diluted in pure food grade oil. This
may be mixed in with food 2-3 times a day.
• For larger dogs: Use 1-3 drops in at least a small amount of pure food
grade oil.
• For horses: Use 5-20 drops per application. A safe application would be 1
drop per 20 lbs of body weight, 2-3 times a day. Treat acute conditions for 3-
7 days.

Storing essential oils properly

There’s a vast difference between essential oils and food grade oils.
Essential oils aren’t greasy as food grade oils usually are, and they don’t
deteriorate or become rancid quickly the same way food grade oils do. (The
possible exceptions would be pressed oils, or essential oils high in plant
waxes, if they haven’t been distilled properly, or if they’ve been exposed to
heat for extended periods of time.)
The natural properties of essential oils help to give them a fairly long
shelf life. It’s interesting that some oils found in Egyptian tombs still had
their full potency when they were tested some 2000 years later! However,
over time, and under certain conditions in present day culture, they may
begin to lose their potency.
Here are some ways to keep your essential oils fresher for the maximum
length of time.
• Don’t leave the lid off the bottle for long periods of time. Some of the
lighter, lower molecular weight parts of the oil may be lost, or oxygen in the
air will react with, and oxidize, the oil faster.
• Tighten the lid securely after each use.
• Store away from light, especially sunlight, even if the oil is in a dark amber
glass bottle. The darker the storage conditions, the longer an oil will
maintain its original chemistry and quality.
• Store in a cool location, away from sources of electric and magnetic fields
(EMF’s) such as television sets, microwaves, computers, and other
electrically powered equipment. Excessive heat can change the molecular
structure of the oil the same way ultraviolet light from sunlight can.
• Use only dark glass bottles if you decide to put a small quantity of oil into
a separate bottle. These keep out light which could chemically alter or
degrade the oil over time.
• Avoid using plastic bottles because they tend to “breathe.”

Traveling by air with essential oils

While the potency of essential oils can best be assured by keeping them
away from sources of radiation, this isn’t always possible, especially if
you’re going through airports.
It’s important to check with the airlines first to see if you can include
essential oils in your carry-on luggage, or whether they should be placed in
your checked-in luggage instead.
If the airline does permit you to bring them with you as carry-on items,
you can present them to airport security and ask if they can be handchecked
instead of x-rayed. However, even if your essential oils do have to be x-
rayed, they may still retain their effectiveness, based on subsequent tests of
some batches of essential oils that have had to undergo mandatory x-ray
inspection during airline travel.
***
In the next chapter, we’ll look at some specific essential oils and how they
might be beneficial for your pets.
5: Selecting Essential Oils For Your Pets
Y
ou don’t have to have a degree in botany to be able to select the essential
oils you want to use, but you do need to understand something about their
unique names, therapeutic properties, specific uses, and safety precautions.
These can vary widely from oil to oil, even among oils with the same
common names such as Lavender, Chamomile, Eucalyptus, and Rosemary.
For example:
• Pure Lavender oil should have the botanical name “Lavandula
angustifolia;” a bottle that says Lavender on the label, but has an oil made
from Lavandin, should say “Lavandula x hybrida”
• The common name, Chamomile, may mean the oil is of either the
Roman Chamomile or the German Chamomile variety; each type has
different properties and, in some cases, they’re used for different therapeutic
purposes
• If you’re looking for Eucalyptus or Rosemary, you’ll find that the common
name on the label may represent one of at least five different types of
Eucalyptus, or one of several types of Rosemary, each with its own specific
botanical name and therapeutic use
• Sometimes an oil name may look as if it’s a combination of more than one
oil, but don’t be fooled; for example, Rose Geranium is actually the name of
a specific plant, not a blend of roses and geranium
As you look up information about specific oils you’d like to use for your
pets, or for yourself, you’ll quickly become familiar with several kinds of
information that will help you choose the correct oil(s).
Each essential oil has multiple constituents, and each constituent is
responsible for certain effects. Recognizing the effects of the main
constituents is a good place to begin.
For example, the aldehydes in Lavender and Chamomile are calming.
Eugenol in Cinnamon and Clove is antiseptic and stimulating. Ketones found
in Lavender, Hyssop, and Patchouly, stimulate cell regeneration and liquefy
mucus. Sesquiterpenes in Frankincense and Sandalwood are soothing to
inflamed tissue. Phenols in Oregano and Thyme oil are highly antimicrobial
and stimulating. The list could go on even further, but you’ll find that kind
of information when you’re doing your own research. It’s not something you
need to commit to memory.
You may want to select an oil based on its Latin botanical name, its
chemical constituents (such as CT cineol, CT thymol, CT linalol, etc.), or
what source the oil has been distilled from (bark, leaves, stems, roots, etc.).
But how do you find all of this information if you don’t have a degree in
botany and can’t even pronounce or spell some of the names? Using a
reference guide can be extraordinarily helpful when it comes to making the
right choices because all of the information about each oil is provided for
you at a quick glance.
A helpful reference guide will include at least the common name, the
Latin botanical name, a list of the chemical constituents, a list of the
medicinal properties, and a list of possible uses for each oil. One such guide
is the Essential Oils Desk Reference published by Essential Science
Publishing (ESP) (www.essentialscience.net).
When you’re ready to make your selection, the key factor is to always look
for therapeutic grade oils in order to experience therapeutic results.

Essential oil blends

Many companies also develop oil blends by combining multiple single

oils. These have been very carefully designed to maintain their effective
properties and still have a pleasing scent. Blend names are assigned by the
company that produces them, so the same combination of single oils, or a
combination that’s very similar, may have different blend names from
company to company.
You may be tempted to create your own blends, but this is actually better
left up to the professionals. It’s not a matter of simply putting together a
number of single oils for which you have a particular preference. There’s a
definite art and science to doing it right, especially when it comes to
maintaining the therapeutic properties.

Some beneficial essential oils for pets

Sometimes dogs (and horses) are instinctively attracted to the scent of

specific oils that will benefit them. Dogs will even roll over onto their backs
in anticipation when they know you’re about to apply an oil they like on
their tummies!
Some essential oils that are helpful to use on animals for problems
ranging from flea control to depression include: Lavender, Melaluca (Tea
Tree), Chamomile, Bergamot, Cedarwood, Juniper, Geranium, Rosemary,
Sandalwood, Patchouli, Orange, and Eucalyptus. Consult a reference guide
to determine which oils to use for the specific problem you’re trying to
resolve.
Essential oils that may help particularly with separation anxiety, stress,
and fear in animals include Cedarwood, Lavender, Roman Chamomile,
Vetiver, and Valerian, and the Young Living® essential oil blends of Peace
and Calming®, GroundingTM, Valor®, and Trauma LifeTM. These should be
used consistently for a period of time until a pet has been able to release all
of the fear and anxiety associated with a past or present event.
The following list is a general compilation of information I’ve acquired
about some essential oils and their properties that may be beneficial for pets.
Bergamot
… has antibacterial, antiviral, antidepressant, antiparasitic, analgesic,
antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, and calming properties. It may be useful
as a digestive aid, a diuretic, a laxative, a stimulant, and a tonic. It may help
to stimulate the appetite; clear bladder infections; and relieve colic, stomach
or intestinal cramps, and flatulence. It’s helpful for pets who have a fever or
who have worms. It should be greatly diluted before it’s applied topically.
Also, the treated area of the body should not be exposed to direct sunlight
for 12-48 hours afterwards.
Cedarwood
… has antibacterial and lymphatic stimulating properties. It also calms
nervous tension and anxious emotional states, helps to dry up phlegm, and
may act as an expectorant. At night, animals in the wild often like to lie
under cedarwood trees for the feeling of protection, recharging, and
rejuvenation the trees give them.
Chamomile
… comes in two varieties, Roman and German. Each has different
chemical constituents, but between the two of them they have
antiinflammatory, pain-relieving, antispasmodic, anti-parasitic, gasrelieving,
fever-reducing, antiseptic, wound-healing, and digestive properties. The
calming and relaxing properties of both varieties make them beneficial for
combatting depression and stress, and for eliminating some of the emotional
charge that accompanies anxiety, irritability, and nervousness. This means
they’re especially useful for over-excited, nervous, or angry animals, or for
those who have experienced trauma in the past. Applied topically, Roman
chamomile treats cuts, infections, burns, and abscesses. Taken internally
(observing the appropriate cautions), German chamomile is helpful for
colitis, intestinal infections, gallbladder problems, colic, flatulence, and
gastritis. Sprayed in the air, they’re both spirit-lifting air fresheners. Roman
chamomile is the most commonly used form. Chamomile is safe for even
very young animals and nursing mothers, and it’s one of the most versatile
and best tolerated essential oils. This is a “must have” oil.
Cinnamon
… has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, antiparisitic,
and anticoagulant properties, and it’s also a circulatory stimulant. It can be
used externally (if properly diluted) to repel lice and small parasites, and
may be useful for treating warts and worms. Taken internally (using the
appropriate precautions because this is a very strong oil), it stimulates
appetite, helps prevent colitis, and heals intestinal infections. Sprayed around
animals in a well diluted solution, it helps improve circulation, combats
fatigue, and boosts the immune system. It’s very powerful, always needs to
be very well diluted, and should be used with extreme care for animals.
Eucalyptus
… has antibacterial, antifungal, antimicrobial, antiviral, and
antiinflammatory properties, depending on which variety is used. Almost all
varieties have expectorant properties and enzymes that help to break down
mucus, making eucalyptus extremely useful for respiratory complaints. Used
in a diffuser, eucalyptus oil helps with bronchial infections and improves
breathing. It also helps inhibit the spread of contagious disease and
discourages insects. A couple of eucalyptus varieties work exceptionally
well as an insect repellent when combined with citronella, cedarwood, and
peppermint oils. It can be toxic if swallowed, so it’s not for internal use.
There are at least five different varieties of Eucalyptus, so the correct variety
needs to be chosen,
depending on the symptoms to be treated.
Geranium
… has antispasmodic, antioxidant, antitumoral, anti-inflammatory,
antibacterial, and antifungal properties. It also helps to stop bleeding,
improves blood flow, stimulates the liver and pancreas, helps detoxify the
liver, and revitalizes skin cells. It balances the emotions, lifts the spirit, helps
release negative memories, and eases nervous tension.
Juniper
… has antiseptic, purifying, and detoxifying properties. It’s also a digestive
stimulant and cleanser, increases circulation through the kidneys, promotes
the excretion of toxins, and promotes nerve regeneration. It’s useful for skin
conditions, liver problems, urinary and bladder infections, and fluid
retention.
Lavender
… has certain calming, analgesic, antidepressive, anti-inflammatory, and
anticonvulsant properties. It soothes the spirit and helps to relieve anger.
Pure lavender oil (but not lavandin) is excellent for treating burns,
regenerating tissue, and reducing scarring. It has a beautiful aroma and is
very useful because it’s known to work wherever there’s a need in the body.
It can be applied directly to the skin, used in spray form, or added to
shampoos and baths. To calm down nervous or hyperactive dogs, place a few
drops on the dog's crate pad or papers. Also, rub a little on the pads of the
paws. Lavender is another “must have” oil to always have on hand for
physical and emotional purposes.
Lemongrass
… has antifungal, antibacterial, antiparasitic, and anti-inflammatory
properties. It regenerates connective tissues and ligaments, dilates blood
vessels, improves circulation, and promotes lymph flow. It stimulates the
mind, lifts the spirit, and clears the head. It also stimulates appetite and is
helpful with colic and indigestion. Lemongrass helps prevent the spread of
contagious diseases and is useful for bladder infections, respiratory
infections, digestive problems, parasites, fluid retention, and torn ligaments
or muscles.
Myrrh
… has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumoral, antimicrobial,
antiseptic, and astringent properties. It’s useful in the treatment of diabetes,
cancer, hepatitis, fungal infections, tooth and gum infections, and some skin
conditions. As a revitalizing oil, it uplifts the spirits and promotes spiritual
awareness.
Orange
… has anti-tumoral, anti-inflammatory, anticoagulant, antidepressant, and
calming properties. It boosts immunity and circulation, reduces depression,
and induces relaxation. Although bitter orange oil is nontoxic, sweet orange
is toxic in large doses. Orange is one of the photosensitive oils, so the treated
area of the body should not be exposed to direct sunlight for 12-48 hours.
Patchouli
… has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties and is also a
relaxant and a digestive aid. It’s very soothing to the skin and relieves
itching, making it beneficial for many uncomfortable skin conditions. It’s
also useful for treating fluid retention and hypertension.
Peppermint
… has anti-inflammatory, anti-tumoral, antiparasitic, antibacterial,
antiviral, and antifungal properties. It stimulates the digestive system and
gallbladder and relieves pain. It’s very useful to prevent motion sickness and
nausea, and very effective in discouraging insects. It smells cool and
refreshing. Like cinnamon, peppermint is a very strong oil and needs to be
very well diluted. It should not be used on fresh wounds, on burns, or on
sensitive areas of the body.
Rosemary
… has anti-tumoral, antifungal, antibacterial, antiparasitic, and
liverprotecting properties. It’s useful for treating infectious diseases, liver
conditions (including hepatitis), as well as throat and lung infections.
Inhaling rosemary may boost alertness and ease anxiety. It shouldn’t
be used, however, for a pet who has seizures.
Rosewood
… has antibacterial, antiviral, antiparasitic, antifungal, and stimulant
properties. It’s useful for treating candida and other fungal infections, for
improving skin elasticity, and for treating dry skin and other skin conditions.
Inhaling rosewood can be emotionally stabilizing and empowering.
Sage
… has anti-tumoral, antifungal, antiviral, and hormone regulating properties.
It’s astringent and antiseptic, making it helpful for preventing gingivitis and
treating laryngitis, tonsillitis, and other oral inflammation. It supports
metabolism and is a circulatory and gallbladder stimulant. It’s mentally
stimulating, helping to combat
despair and mental fatigue.
Sandalwood
 … has antiviral, anti-tumoral, antidepressant, and immune stimulating
properties. Applied topically, sandalwood may help heal dry, cracked skin.
Diffused in the air, it helps clear bronchial and respiratory infections, as well
as dry coughs. Taken internally, it helps with cystitis and urinary tract
infections, and it helps prevent diarrhea and nausea. In all applications,
sandalwood lifts the spirits, relieves nervous tension, and encourages restful
sleep.
Tea Tree
… has antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antiparasitic, and
antiinflammatory properties. Its most important use is to help the immune
system fight off infectious diseases. It activates the white corpuscles to form
a defense against invading organisms and helps to shorten the duration of
illness. It’s also useful for treating canine influenza, gingivitis, and urinary
tract problems. Its strong antiviral and germicidal properties are useful for
treating repeated infections. Its fungicidal properties help relieve vaginal
thrush. It can provide relief for genital and anal itching as well as general
itching or rashes caused by insect bites. A series of massages with tea tree
oil before surgery may help to fortify the body. Tea tree has extensive
applications in medicine and veterinary medicine. However it’s potentially
dangerous to use on cats and birds, so it should only be used with
professional guidance for these animals. Otherwise, Tea Tree is another
"must have" essential oil.
Valerian
… has calming, relaxing, grounding, and emotionally balancing properties.
It’s been used for thousands of years as a sedative, and it’s tranquilizing to
the central nervous system. There’s evidence that it calms the brain, relieves
stress, and even relaxes muscles. It’s useful for treating anxiety, restlessness,
and sleep disturbances. Once you know how your pet reacts to Valerian, you
can then use it when you have to leave your pet alone. Since Valerian helps
to calm animals, pets who use it may learn to accept being alone without
fear.
Vetiver
… has psychologically grounding, calming, and stabilizing properties, so it’s
valuable for relieving stress, depression, and insomnia, as well as helping
animals and humans recover from emotional traumas and shock. It’s known
as a natural tranquilizer, and most animals love the scent of it. It also has
antiseptic, antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, and circulatory stimulant
properties, making it helpful for treating arthritis and rheumatism.

Single oils and oil blends for use in animal treatment

The following list has been compiled from the Essential Oils Desk
Reference published by Essential Science Publishing. It identifies some
conditions in animals that can be treated with therapeutic grade essential
oils. The names of the recommended oil blends, massage and diluting oils,
and animal care products in this list are those used by Young Living
Essential OilsTM.
You can find specific directions in the reference guide for using many of
the recommended oils on pets. These can be found in the chapter about
“Animal Care and Horses.”
• Arthritis—Pine, Spruce, Wintergreen, PanAway®, Ortho Ease®
Massage Oil
• Birthing—Gentle BabyTM
• Bleeding—Geranium, Helichrysum
• Bone (pain and spurs)—Birch, Lemongrass, Spruce, R.C.TM,
Wintergreen, PanAway®
• Bones (fractured or broken)—Birch, Spruce, Wintergreen,
PanAway®, Ortho SportTM Massage Oil
• Calming—Lavender, Peace and Calming®, Trauma LifeTM
• Colds and flu—Exodus IITM, Di-GizeTM, ImmuPowerTM
• Colic—Di-GizeTM
• Digestive disturbances—Di-GizeTM
• Fleas and parasites—Citronella, Eucalyptus (all types),
Lemongrass, Peppermint, Tea Tree, Di-GizeTM
• Inflammation—Birch, Pine, Spruce, Wintergreen, PanAway®,
Ortho Ease® Massage Oil
• Insect repellent—10 drops each of Citronella, Eucalyptus
Globulus, Peppermint, and Purification® in an 8 oz spray bottle
with purified water. Shake bottle every time before spraying.
Hydrosols (floral waters) of Peppermint and Idaho Tansy can also
be used.
• Ligaments/tendons (torn or sprained)—Lemongrass and
Lavender (equal parts)
• Mineral deficiencies—Mineral EssenceTM (for animals who
chew on furniture, etc.)
• Mites—Purification®, Peppermint (swab the outer part of the ear
with a Q-Tip®; never put oils into the ears)
• Nervous anxiety—Geranium, Lavender, Valerian, Valor®,
Trauma LifeTM
• Pain—Clove, Peppermint, Helichrysum, PanAway®, Relieve ItTM
(to dilute: use Young Living’s V-6TM Enhanced Vegetable Oil
Complex, or food grade oils such as almond, grapeseed, or olive
oil)
• Shiny coats—Rosemary, Sandalwood
• Sinus problems/lung congestion—Eucalyptus Radiata, Pine,
Myrtle, Exodus IITM, RavenTM, R.C. TM, Thieves®
• Skin cancer—Clove, Frankincense, Lavender, Myrrh
• Tick removal—Cinnamon, Peppermint, Tea Tree
• Trauma—Chamomile, Lavender, Melissa, Rosewood, Valerian,
Peace & Calming®, Trauma LifeTM, Valor®
• Tumors or cancers—Mix Frankincense with Ledum, Lavender,
or Clove and apply on area of tumor
• Worms and parasites—ParaFreeTM, Di-GizeTM
• Wounds (open or abrasions)—Helichrysum, Melrose
• Wounds (to seal and protect after applying essential oils)—
Animal ScentsTM Ointment
You’ll also find a helpful list of essential oil products to have on hand in a
first aid kit for animals in Chapter 28, Emergency First Aid Kits.
***
As you can see, therapeutic grade essential oils are exceptionally
powerful healing tools we can safely and effectively use both for our animals
and for ourselves. And there’s a wealth of information available in books
and on the Internet to support you as you learn about them.
6: Homeopathy
H
omeopathy is a therapeutic system of medicine that’s recognized by the
World Health Organization as the second largest therapeutic system in the
world. It’s based on the principle of “similars”—that “like cures like.”
For example, the symptoms of a bacterial infection may actually be
cured by using a remedy prepared from the same strain of bacteria as the one
causing the illness. We often use a similar technique in a preventive way
whenever we use a vaccine to immunize a person against a specific disease.
It’s interesting to note that a homeopathic remedy administered to a
healthy person may actually cause that person to develop symptoms of the
illness, but if the person already has the symptoms of that illness, the same
homeopathic remedy can effectively eliminate them.
What are homeopathic remedies? They’re extracts from herbs, roots,
plants, minerals, or animal sources that have been mixed with alcohol and/or
water and diluted a number of times. They can be used for prevention and
for treatment because they help stimulate the body's own immune system
and defense processes.
The principle of homeopathy has been used for centuries, but a
standardized system of homeopathy was only established about 200 years
ago by a German physician, Samuel Hahneman.
Dr. Hahneman’s research showed that homeopathic remedies, when
given internally, must be administered in extremely small doses because
high doses are toxic and can produce unwanted side effects.
To reduce the toxicity of a remedy, Hahnemann diluted each preparation
in stages. By diluting only a little bit at a time, he maintained the beneficial
effects while eliminating the toxic effects. He also found that a higher level
of dilution, coupled with strong agitation of the mixture, enhanced the
medicine’s effect. The more dilute the mixture became, the more potent it
seemed to be. This discovery eventually led him to call the medicines
“potencies.”

Homeopathic formulation

How is a homeopathic remedy prepared?

 A botanical extract is first mixed with alcohol to form a “mother
tincture.” Today, this is done according to standards set by HPUS
(Homeopathic Pharmacopeia of the United States). A mother tincture must
only be prescribed by a professional because it’s far too strong for treating
most conditions. However, a mother tincture can be diluted until it reaches a
form that’s safe to take as an over-the-counter remedy.
A mother tincture may be diluted into several different strengths
(potencies). The most common dilutions are 1:10 (one part tincture to 10
parts water), 1:100 (one part tincture to 100 parts water), and 1:1000 (one
part tincture to 1000 parts water).
The strength of the homeopathic remedy is then expressed in terms such
as 6X, 30C, or 1000M (where X=10, C=100, and M=1000). The expression
6X means that the solution was diluted six times using a 1:10 ratio; 30C
means it was diluted 30 times using a 1:100 ratio; 1000M means it was
diluted a thousand times using a 1:1000 ratio).
For example, to prepare a 30C potency, one drop of the original botanical
substance is diluted with 100 drops of water and shaken vigorously a
specific number of times. Then one drop of that mixture is diluted in another
100 drops of water. This process continues 30 times and is known as
potentization. The final solution may then be applied to small sugar pellets
which absorb the remedy so that it can easily be taken orally.
Some commonly used potencies are 6X, 12X, 30C, 200C, and 1M,
though any potency of 200C or higher usually has to be prescribed by a
professional. Lower potencies such as 6X, 12X, and 30C are available over
the counter in health food stores and homeopathic pharmacies.

How to administer homeopathic remedies

How often can a remedy be administered?

In general, the higher the potency, the less frequently it should be
administered, while the lower the potency, the more frequently it may be
administered. This means that low potency remedies (6X, 12X) may be
given more frequently (every 2-4 hours) while moderately high potency
remedies (30C) and high strength remedies (200C, 1M) should be given
much less frequently. Veterinarian-prescribed higher potency doses may
need to be given more frequently in the beginning of treatment, but should
be continued less frequently on a maintenance basis.
How much should you use?
The amount of a remedy to use is the same for every pet, regardless of a
pet’s size. Follow the directions on the label and remember that less is often
better. It’s a good idea, though, to keep a written record of what you actually
give so you can match the dose with the results, especially if there happen to
be any undesirable effects.
How many remedies should you use at the same time?
According to classical homeopathy, only one remedy should be used at a
time. However, you may find some over-the-counter formulations where
several single remedies have been combined. These formulations are usually
intended to treat a specific condition or diagnosis.
While these combined formulas may not cause any undesirable
interactions, using more than one remedy at the same time may prevent
either one of them from providing their fullest effect that might result in a
cure. A homeopathic professional should be the one to decide whether only a
single remedy or a combined formulation should be used.
Which remedy should you choose?
It’s very important to select the right remedy to match the symptoms.
You can find guidance about which remedy may be best to use on Internet
sites, from books about homeopathy, and of course, from a trained
professional.
Are homeopathic remedies safe to take when your pet is already taking
medications, herbs, flower essences, etc.?
Homeopathic preparations don’t usually conflict with herbs and flower
essences, but it’s still best to take them at separate times of the day. If your
pet is taking prescribed medications, however, check with your veterinarian
first before beginning to use any homeopathic remedies.
Are there any precautions that should be observed when you’re using
both homeopathic remedies and essential oils?
It’s important to avoid using the essential oils of peppermint, eucalyptus,
and black pepper, as well as those with camphor or menthol at the same time
because these oils may neutralize the effects of some homeopathic remedies.
You may be able to use both types of remedies on the same day, but you
should leave up to one hour, at the very least, between using those oils and
using a homeopathic remedy if at all possible.
Can homeopathic remedies be given at regular mealtimes?
 No, they should be given at a separate time because they’re much more
effective when they’re given all by themselves. It’s best to withhold water
for at least 5 minutes, and food for at least 10-20 minutes, both before and
after administering a remedy.
In what forms can you find these remedies?
Homeopathic remedies come in powders, tablets, pellets, and liquids.
The pellets should never come in contact with your hands because they’re
coated with a base of lactose and sucrose that can dilute when the pellets
react with the natural warmth and moistness of your skin.
Instead, pour the desired quantity into a small paper cup, a paper towel
funnel, a small empty medicine container, or a pill dispenser designed
specifically for pets, and then dispense them into your pet’s mouth. When
they’re dissolved under the tongue, they provide the highest level of
absorption.
While pellets can be put directly into a pet’s mouth, you do need to be sure
the pet doesn’t spit them out before they’re fully dissolved.
Liquid homeopathic remedies do need to be diluted in water before being
administered. They’re usually preserved in an alcohol solution, so they’re
too strong to be given directly from the bottle.
Homeopathic powder preparations also need to be diluted in water and given
orally.
Creams and ointments, however, are applied directly to the skin according to
the directions on the label.
For what conditions are homeopathic remedies beneficial?
While over-the-counter homeopathic remedies can be very beneficial for
treating minor ailments, many doctors recommend not using them to treat
acute conditions. In the case of major medical problems, the use of
homeopathic remedies may delay the diagnosis and treatment of a serious
illness.
However, in acute conditions where it’s acceptable or necessary to use
homeopathic remedies, the lower or medium potency medicines can be
given every 15 minutes for up to four doses during the first hour. In the
second hour, the dose is reduced to once every 30 minutes. In the third hour,
only one dose is given. The frequency of treatment may be reduced as soon
as the animal shows a positive response. When the pet does show signs of
improvement, a once a day maintenance dose may then be given for up to
five days.
What if there doesn’t seem to be a favorable response to a remedy?
If four doses of the remedy have not begun to bring about a favorable
response, then possibly that particular remedy isn’t going to be beneficial. If
there’s no improvement within 24 hours, it may be best to try a different
remedy. Once the animal is obviously moving toward recovery, the
medication may be discontinued.
How can a homeopathic remedy be administered to a horse?
When giving remedies to horses, you can dissolve 4-5 pellets in 12cc of
spring or distilled water and squirt it into the horse’s mouth with a syringe.
Most horses will take this solution very willingly. Because the medicine is
absorbed by the mucous membranes in the mouth, it doesn’t need to be
swallowed.
What’s important to know about higher potencies?
Remember, the more potent the remedy (the more times the original
substance has been diluted), the longer and deeper the remedy acts in the
body. That’s why higher doses need to be prescribed and monitored by a
professional, and administered less frequently than lower doses.
Higher potencies may also be more likely to cause a “healing crisis”
when the remedy is first administered. When this happens, the symptoms
seem to become worse before there are any signs of improvement. Using
lower potencies in the beginning of treatment usually helps avoid any
healing crisis.

Common homeopathic remedies

The two lists that follow are meant only to provide you with general
information about a variety of homeopathic preparations and their possible
uses. Since these remedies are very powerful, it will be necessary for you to
consult with a professional, or do more in-depth research on your own,
before actually trying to use them for your pets.
Aconite—Monkshood
This is a beautiful, but poisonous, plant that grows in the mountains of
France, Switzerland, and Germany. Two primary uses of this remedy are for
shock and inflammation. It’s also useful for treating acute fever, fear, panic
attacks, burning pain, acute infections that develop suddenly, eye injuries
with inflammation, corneal ulcers, and the earliest stages of Lyme disease.
Acute influenza is a classic Aconite case for humans.
 Aconite 30C is a good first remedy to give when there’s been any type
of accident or injury. The severe shock of an incident such as a traffic
accident, or being attacked by a pack of animals, can be greatly helped by a
few doses of Aconite. Give every 15 minutes for 4 doses or until
improvement is seen. Remember shock can be very serious, so be sure to
seek professional help.
Complaints which come on after exposure to dry cold weather or
extreme heat may also respond to this remedy. This would make Aconite
30c a good choice to use for birds who are chilled in cold, dry, windy
weather. However, it wouldn’t be the first treatment of choice if pathological
(severe) bodily changes have already occurred
For female pets, Aconite is used to treat metritis, a bacterial infection of
the uterus occurring just after breeding or giving birth, and also to treat
mastitis, an infection of the mammary glands in nursing mothers.
Aconite would be an appropriate choice for a horse who is experiencing
fear or panic. It could be beneficial, for example, during trailer loading,
clipping, or when entering the show ring. However, it wouldn’t be the choice
to use for a horse who just doesn’t want to do something.
Anterior enteritis type colic in horses may also be treated in its early
stages with Aconite.
Aconite is also one remedy to consider for treating acute cystitis in cats.
Apis - Honeybee
Apis 200C is often used to treat bee stings and swelling, edema,
soreness, blister like swellings, burning pain, heat intolerance, and fever with
lack of thirst. Apis is also used for allergic reactions with puffy type
swelling. It can be life saving in an acute anaphylactic type reaction. Another
use for Apis would be for joint swelling with heat, fluid retention, and pain.
Apis 6C is recommended for animals recovering from surgery, and may
be given every two hours for a total of three treatments. Apis 30C is useful
for treating abscesses in dogs and cats when swelling and redness around a
boil looks shiny.
Apis may also be beneficial for cats with laryngitis when inflammation
is accompanied by swelling and edema. In mares, Apis may be used for
ovarian inflammation and cyst formation, especially if these occur on the
right side
In most cases, patients who would benefit from using Apis are not
usually thirsty at all, though they may occasionally show signs of extreme
thirst.
Arnica - Leopard’s Bane
Arnica is a flowering herb that’s routinely used by herbalists and
homeopaths. In the form of an ointment, it’s one that every home should
have available. While Arnica is usually applied topically as an ointment, or
in tincture form, it can also be found as a homeopathic preparation which
can be used internally.
It’s used externally primarily for muscle soreness and bruises, and it
should be the first remedy used for all injuries. Other remedies can then be
used, based on the individual’s healing response. This remedy should be
used after falls, bites, or operations. Septic conditions may also respond to
Arnica.
Arnica 30C can be given to prevent infections in females who are giving
birth during normal deliveries. It’s also useful for birds who suffer from
blows and other injuries that produce pain, swelling, or bruising, for
example, when they’ve flown into a window.
Arnica 200C may be used for concussion. Arnica should also be
considered for any symptoms that develop after an injury. Head injuries are
notorious for causing persistent symptoms long after the original injury
appears to be healed. A usual dose is given 3-4 times daily for two days.
Arsenicum album
Arsenic is an extremely toxic chemical in crude form, but it can be
tonifying and strengthening when it’s prepared as a homeopathic potency.
Consistent with the homeopathic principle that “like cures like,” it’s used to
treat symptoms that arsenic would cause if it had been taken internally in
crude form.
Arsenicum 30C is a very deep acting remedy with many indications for
use in all animals. Some of the symptoms that may prompt you to use
Arsenicum 30C include restlessness with extreme exhaustion, fearfulness,
chilliness, bloody diarrhea, vomiting, and putrid discharges. The patient may
be very thirsty, but only for frequent small drinks.
It’s also beneficial for treating food poisoning, sometimes called garbage
gut in dogs, or moldy feed enteritis in horses, and it can be used to treat
bright green, liquid diarrhea in birds. It’s also a good remedy to learn more
about for treating chronic diseases.
Arsenicum 6C is suggested for feline infectious peritonitis, and for cats
who are anxious, chilly, thirsty, and restless.
Arsenicum album can help in the treatment of gastroenteritis, and in cases
of parvo virus or food poisoning if they’re causing vomiting and diarrhea. It
can be given hourly for four doses, or three times daily in less acute cases.
Your pet would first need to be treated by a veterinarian, but Arsenicum
album could be helpful as an additional part of therapy.
Belladonna
Belladonna is useful to treat acute conditions which begin suddenly, such as
a high fever, or ailments that produce sensitivity to noise, light, touch,
pressure, or pain.
It may help with boils, ear aches, fever in young animals, red and
swollen breasts, and painful teething.
Belladonna 6X can be used for liver disease in which fever, restless
agitation, a hot head, and dilated pupils are symptoms.
Belladonna 6C can be given for gastritis in feverish animals with dilated
pupils, and for cases of eclampsia in pregnant females.
For birds, Belladonna 30C is useful for treating abscesses that produce
redness and pain, but little swelling.
Calendula - Marigold
Calendula, in lotion or cream form, is most often applied externally to
open wounds because it repels insects and speeds healing. It may also be
used internally by using its flowers to make a tea.
Cantharis
Burning pain when passing urine is the keynote symptom for using
Cantharis. Cats and dogs who suffer from cystitis may sometimes pass
urine that’s tinged with blood. A few doses of Cantharis can help.
Carbo Veg
This preparation is used to treat low vitality, exhaustion, weakness, or shock,
especially after surgery. It’s also useful for poor circulation, indigestion,
flatulence, and bloating.
Carbo Veg 30C is recommended for dogs with bloat.
Carbo Veg 200C, given one dose every 30 minutes until improvement
occurs, is useful for birds who collapse.
Chamomilla - Chamomile
Another favorite of herbalists and homeopaths, Chamomilla is most
famous for it’s calming effects. Mothers depend on it to relieve teething,
earache, and colic pains in children. In horses, Chamomilla is primarily a
colic remedy. It may also be helpful to use before any anxiety-producing
event. Animals who are overly sensitive to pain will be most likely to
respond to Chamomilla. It should not be used in animals who are already
very calm.
Colchicum - Meadow Saffron
Another toxic plant with medicinal properties, Colchicum is primarily
used for joint stiffness. It’s also an excellent remedy for colic in horses when
they’re very bloated and you hear high pitched gas sounds when listening
over either flank. It’s best used in conjunction with Nux Vomica, because
many gas colic cases also have an impaction in the intestine. If a horse
passes a small amount of stool covered with mucus, this may be an
indication that Colchicum would be beneficial.
Hamamelis
Hamamelis can be used in tincture, distilled liquid, ointment, or cream
form, either alone or in combination with herbal extracts. Emotionally, it’s
beneficial for depression, irritability, and restlessness. Physically, it’s useful
for treating burns, sunburn, eczema, eye inflammation, earaches, headaches,
toothaches, arthritis of the joints, stomach ulcers, poison ivy blisters, sore or
strained muscles, and internal fractures that aren’t accompanied by open
wounds. It’s an effective astringent that promotes wound healing of minor
skin injuries, and relieves skin inflammations, ulcerations, and diseases of
the skin. The liquid form is very helpful for stopping the flow of minor
bleeding or even hemorraghing. The cream or ointment form is usually
applied 1-2 times daily for 2-3 days.
Hamamelis is the Latin name for the witch hazel plant and, as a
homeopathic remedy, it's prepared from the twigs, bark, and the outer layer
of the root. But hamamelis as a homeopathic preparation is not the same as
an hamamelis herbal remedy, nor is it the same as any of the witch hazel
products you’ll find in stores that are used for astringent, medicinal, and
cosmetic purposes. Hamamelis, as a homeopathic remedy, must be obtained
from a source that provides homeopathic products.
Hepar Sulph
Abscesses and any swelling painful to the touch, such as a boil, can be aided
with four doses of Hepar Sulph over 24 hours. Tooth abscesses, where there
is swelling on the face below the eye, may also respond well to this remedy.
Hypericum - St. John's Wort
Another popular herb, Hypericum is a great remedy for injuries to nerves,
especially of fingers, toes, and nails. Excessive pain in these areas is a
symptom indicating the possible use of Hypericum. It can help prevent
tetanus after puncture wounds. It can also be used for pain after surgical
operations. It’s excellent for injuries to the spine. It’s good for dogs and cats
who get their tails caught in doors, or for horses who sit back and fall on the
base of their tails. It should also be considered for animal bites and
laceration type wounds with accompanying weakness from loss of blood. It’s
an excellent toothache remedy. Externally, it’s used in lotion form to ease the
pain of damaged nerves, for instance after a nail puncture in the hoof. Give
one dose of Hypericum hourly for four doses or so.
Ledum
Ledum has many uses including treating insect bites, stings, bruises, eye
injuries, conjunctivitis, corneal ulcers, cuts, scrapes, and puncture wounds. It
may also help with rheumatic pain, swollen joints, and stiff tendons.
For birds, use Ledum 12C for puncture wounds over which the skin has
closed and the skin is cold.
Ledum 1M for Lyme disease is a prescription-strength potency.
Merc Sol
Some indications for using Merc Sol 6C include strong smelling and
burning bodily discharges, throat and mouth complaints, bad breath,
gingivitis, chronic conjunctivitis, nasal mucus, skin lesions, blisters, open
sores, or skin ulcers. Ear infections, dysentery, liver problems, and kidney
disease may also respond to this kind of treatment.
Merc Sol 30C is often used for bladder problems, licking after urination, a
tendency to drool or salivate, and for dogs with Lyme disease.
Nux Vomica - Poison Nut
This poisonous substance, in crude form, causes patients to become overly
sensitive to external stimuli. They may react violently to light, sounds, or
odors, and suffer from spasms. They may also have a negative reaction to
drugs. The homeopathic preparation may therefore help when these
symptoms are present. Nux Vomica is frequently used by homeopaths when
they start to treat someone who has been heavily medicated.
Nux Vomica 6C is useful for treating digestive complaints such as
indigestion, vomiting, diarrhea with painful intestinal cramps, nausea with
colicky pain, and constipation. It’s also useful for urinary tract infections
such as cystitis, frequent urination, insomnia, morning sickness, labor pains,
and umbilical hernias.
 Nux vomica 6C may also be useful for anemia, and is appropriate for
animals with back pain, muscle tightness, lower back spasms, and weakness
or paralysis of the hind legs, if caught early.
Nux vomica 30C can be used for gastric dilation, or bloat, in dogs, and
for acute bladder infections in cats. Since it helps with spasms and
constrictions, it’s a good choice for treating cystitis in cats.
Nux Vomica is also a good remedy for impaction colic in horses. Colic
cases which respond well to Nux Vomica are not as painful as those needing
Chamomilla.
It’s also very important not to forget the animal’s mental state when
treating something like colic. For example, the Aconite case may be in a
state of anguish, the Chamomila case would be irritable, and the Nux
Vomica patient might be downright mean.
Overeating and lack of exercise are often found in the history of a patient
who may benefit from using this remedy. Nux Vomica is especially useful
for show horses on high grain rations who have to spend extended periods of
time confined to their stalls.
Many skin conditions respond well to Nux Vomica initially, but other
remedies may be needed to completely resolve the case.
Phosphorous
Phosphorous is useful for treating hemorrhage and vomiting, or weakness
following blood loss. Two of the indicators for using this remedy are
vomiting almost as soon as food or water is taken, along with a high degree
of thirst for large amounts of water. It can also be helpful if a pet is afraid of
thunder or fireworks. Animals who need Phosphorous tend to be very
friendly and excitable.
Pulsatilla—Wind Flower
Pulsatilla is primarily used for females because it’s a great remedy for
those who have thick, yellow, or green discharge. As a general rule, patients
who do well using this remedy have a wonderful, gentle disposition, dislike
heat, tend not to be thirsty, and prefer to be outdoors. They love attention.
Cat owners, especially, will report how affectionate they are.
Pulsatilla may also be beneficial for horses with summer colds. For dogs
who bark constantly when the owner is gone, giving Pulsatilla 200C 12
hours apart for four consecutive times can be helpful. Repeat once a month.
Rhus Tox
 Rhus Tox is a remedy for injury, particularly a tendon injury. It can also
be useful for itchy skin if the skin is red and swollen. Rhus Tox, mixed with
Arnica and Ruta, can be given after injuries that cause lameness, as long as
you’re sure no veterinary attention is required. It’s useful for end-ofmuscle-
to-bone repair. Give Rhus Tox 6C three times daily for up to five days. If
there’s no improvement, contact your vet.
Ruta Grav
Sprains and strains, as well as tendon and ligament injuries, will benefit from
Ruta Grav. It can be given with Rhus Tox for an enhanced effect, where,
for instance, you’re trying to achieve gentle movement in bone-tobone
motion.
Sepia
Sepia is used to help the reproductive systems of female dogs and other
animals. It’s also useful for both sexes for treating exhaustion, muscle
weakness, gas and tenderness in the abdomen, indigestion caused by milk,
nausea, circulatory problems, hair loss, and itchy discolored patches of skin.
Sepia 6C is recommended for cats with feline leukemia, with red or
inflamed gums, as well as for cats with kidney failure combined with nausea,
vomiting, or loss of appetite.
Sepia 30C is recommended for cats with recurring bladder infections,
and a condition known as pyometra. It’s beneficial for cats who are finicky,
aggressive toward other cats, and, in general, difficult to handle.
Silicea
Silicea is a deep acting remedy and should be considered for many chronic
cases. It may be useful for pets who have swollen glands, have an excessive
dislike for hypodermic injections, and have a sensitivity to heat even though
they’re chilly.
Silicea is also a good choice for treating ill effects from vaccinations,
scarring after injury, and a tendency toward abscess formation.
It’s recommended for corneal ulcers of the eye, cysts in dogs, minimizing
scar tissue, and shrinking some forms of tumors.
It can be beneficial for treating ailments that result from inadequate
nutrition. It will often help a pet assimilate minerals.
In horses, dry cracked hooves are a primary indicator for the use of Silicea.
Silicea 30C is suggested for cancers such as solid tumors in dogs, or
lymphosarcoma associated with rapid weight loss and ravenous appetite.
For hard cysts in birds, use Silicea 30C twice daily for three days, then once
a day for a week, then once a week.
Thuja
Thuja can be used in the treatment of warts and other skin complaints,
exhaustion from overexcitement, and a loss of appetite in the morning.
Thuja 30C is suggested for dogs with kidney or bladder stones, as well as
for breast tumors, and for the prevention of warts in older pets.
Thuja is also recommended for dogs and cats who have epilepsy. It should
be followed one month later by Silicea 30C.

Treat the symptoms, not just the disease

So often, when we already know the exact diagnosis, we tend to think

only about treating the disease, but each disease may have several different
symptoms. It’s actually very important to observe all of the symptoms and
treat them appropriately. This is especially true when you’re using
homeopathic remedies.
The following list contains some ideas that may help you think, not just
about the disease, but about each of the symptoms your pet is experiencing.
It contains suggested homeopathic remedies, some of which were not
included in the list above, as well as recommendations for the use of some
flower essences.
• Arthritis/Hip Dysplasia. If an animal is sore and stiff when getting up,
try Rhus Tox. If an animal is moving about in a stiff manner and the pain
seems worse, use Bryonia. If smaller joints are affected, particularly in the
feet and neck, use Caulophyllum. For arthritis and rheumatism that seems
to affect the whole body, try Actea Racemosa. When the animal’s hind legs
tend to sway, and there’s painful stiffness or difficulty of movement in the
hindquarters, try Conium maculatum.
• Convulsions/Seizures. Don’t interfere with, or try to move, your pet when
he’s having an episode. Simply keep the situation as safe as possible, and be
there for moral support, especially when the episode is over. If possible, put
a couple of Aconite pellets on his tongue. If a pet seems frightened
afterwards, you can follow this with some Rescue® Remedy (a BachTM
Original Flower Remedy explained in Chapter 1, Flower Essences). If an
episode doesn’t stop within a few minutes, then contact your vet for
additional help or advice.
• Cuts. Clean with water, removing any foreign bodies, and then apply
Calendula or Hypercal® lotion after drying. Continue applying twice daily
while healing.
• Cystitis. Many animals who suffer from this disease, which manifests as
frequent, painful urination, sometimes with blood in the urine, can be helped
with Cantharis.
• Fevers, flu, etc. A sudden onset of many infections (similar to flu in
humans) can be nipped in the bud with a few doses of Aconite. If your
animal is red hot with a bounding pulse, then Belladonna may be more
suitable.
• Fractures. Broken limbs obviously need professional care. Until you can
get to the vet, cover any wounds with clean gauze, and apply a temporary
splint if the fracture is low down on the leg. Put your companion in a
comfortable position, preferably on a firm surface, and transport to the vet.
Give him doses of Arnica 30C every hour for up to four doses. For
aftercare, use Arnica for two days and then Symphytum 2X daily for two
weeks. Add a Calcium-Phosphorus supplement if necessary.
• Puncture Wounds/Bites. If possible, clean the wound as soon as you
become aware of it and remove any embedded hairs or splinters. This
includes punctures with sharp objects such as nails, as well as insect bites
and animal bites. Give Ledum two pellets every hour or so for four doses. If
the bite later becomes infected, forming an abscess, then use Hepar Sulph
to treat the infection.
• Shock. This accompanies severe injuries such as those from traffic
accidents. The signs are rapid breathing and pulse rate, and collapse,
possibly with loss of consciousness. Give Aconite every 10 minutes until
some improvement is seen. If there’s a lot of bruising or internal
hemorrhage, then Arnica may be a better choice to start with, using it in the
same way. Always follow with Arnica four times daily to aid recovery from
any injury.
• Vomiting and Diarrhea. For several hours afterwards, give nothing to eat,
and only small sips of water. Follow with a light diet of boiled chicken,
boiled rice, or scrambled eggs. Also give four doses of Phosphorus or
Arsenicum Album over 24 hours, depending on the symptoms.
***
Homeopathic treatments are safe and effective remedies for both pets
and people when they’re used appropriately. However, if you’re not already
familiar with them, it’s definitely best to consult a homeopathic professional
first.
7: Magnetic Therapy
I
magine being able to apply a remedy to the outside of the body and have it
work as effectively as certain medications do, but without any of the
potential side effects that might be caused by those medications.
It’s very exciting to think about what magnetic therapy can do for our
pets, especially if they’ve been seriously injured, or suffer from hip
dysplasia, inflammatory diseases such as arthritis, or central nervous system
disorders such as seizures.
This form of therapy has been in use for thousands of years, perhaps
even longer than acupuncture. The ancient Chinese, Greeks, Hebrews,
Arabs, Indians, and Egyptians all used magnetic therapy for health purposes.
They didn’t have magnets as we know them today, but they did grind up a
magnetic substance called lodestone (magnetite) and applied it as a poultice,
or added it to food and other substances.
Today, the use of magnetic therapy is well established in countries such
as Japan, China, India, Austria, Germany, and Russia. Some good
information about animals and magnetic therapy also comes from England.
The Western medical community regularly uses magnetic technology in
its sophisticated forms of testing equipment (for example in MRI machines),
and gradually, they’re even beginning to recognize its other therapeutic
benefits as a complementary therapy.
As with so many alternative forms of therapy, even if magnetic therapy
hasn’t yet been widely recognized for its effectiveness by the traditional
medical community, many veterinarians, medical doctors, and people in all
walks of life wouldn’t want to be without the benefits they’ve observed in
others or experienced for themselves.
Some veterinarians have used this form of therapy for animals for many
years because it helps bone fractures heal faster. Without the healing benefits
of magnetic therapy, many racehorses and other animals would have had to
be put down as a result of their serious injuries.
But veterinarians aren’t the only professionals who are aware of the
benefits of magnetic therapy. In fact, it’s the long-term successful use of
magnets for racehorses and other animals that now has some medical doctors
recommending their use for professional athletes because magnets do relieve
pain and speed up the healing process following injuries for both people and
animals.
Some athletes use them not only for healing after exertion or injury, but
they also wear magnets while they’re competing because magnets warm the
muscles and joints and help to prevent injuries. Magnets can have the same
kind of beneficial effects for dogs and racehorses who exercise heavily or
participate in competitions.

Helping the body heal itself

Until recent years, the trend in western medicine has been to rely on
surgery and pharmaceutical medications for healing, but even traditional
human and veterinary professionals are beginning to pay much more
attention to the body’s own natural healing ability. And one of the better
ways to help the body exercise that ability is the use of biomagnetic therapy.
Already, there’s significant research and other documentation to show
that many conditions in both pets and people can successfully be treated with
magnets. Magnets have been shown to improve circulation because, when
they’re placed next to the skin, they relax the walls of the capillaries. They
also relax muscles to either prevent or relieve spasms. Additionally, magnets
seem to interfere with, or block, the transmission of pain messages between
the nerve cells and the brain. This means that using magnets can have a
soothing effect on cells, tissues, and nerves to help lessen pain, stiffness,
soreness, and swelling.
In the eastern approach to healing, we’d say that magnets remove energy
blockages in the body’s meridians, and when these blockages are removed,
energy (Ch’i) can once again flow freely, returning the body to a state of
balance and harmony.
As is true for every form of therapy, magnets themselves don’t cure
anything. What they do is to relieve tension, stress, and inflammation that’s
keeping the body in an unbalanced state. As the body becomes more relaxed,
healing then begins to take place naturally from within.
It’s also important to know that the positive and beneficial effects of
magnetic therapy are very different from the negative effects of
electromagnetism produced by all of the electronic equipment with which
we’re usually surrounded.
 While magnetic therapy may not work for everyone, there’s both
scientific and anecdotal evidence that it works for the greater majority of
dogs, cats, horses, and people. How well and how quickly magnets work will
depend on how long an unhealthy or chronic condition has persisted, how
severe it is, and how strong the magnet is.

What you need to know about magnetic therapy

Two kinds of magnetic therapy

There are actually two kinds of magnetic therapy: pulsed
electromagnetic therapy and fixed, or static, magnetic therapy.
Pulsed therapy is usually used to treat fractures, hip disorders, osteoarthritis,
and rotator cuff injuries.
In this chapter, however, we’ll be talking primarily about fixed magnetic
therapy—the kind you’d normally use at home for your pets, and for
yourselves.
In some cases, fixed magnets may also help the same kinds of problems
usually treated by pulsed therapy, if the magnet used is strong enough to be
effective.
Why we and our pets need the effects of magnetism
There are trillions of chemical reactions taking place every day, both
within and between the cells, in human and animal bodies. These reactions
create normal magnetic fields within all forms of life—plant, animal, and
human—enabling every living organism to maintain a healthy balance.
However, when a person’s or an animal’s magnetic field is disrupted in
any part of the body, even in a few cells, something called depolarization
takes place. For example, a pain signal coming from the brain has the effect
of depolarizing cells in the location where there’s an injury.
Depolarized cells begin to lose their state of healthy balance. This
happens because the energy levels of the atoms that make up those cells
decreases. Cells that become depolarized become so vulnerable they may no
longer be able to use their own ability to recover.
If this state of imbalance persists for awhile, people and animals begin to
experience chronic conditions, become seriously ill, or may even die.
NASA scientists discovered just how important magnetism is when early
astronauts came back sick, and laboratory rats died, after being in outer
space. That’s because they all encountered a prolonged lack of magnetism
during space travel. Scientists solved the problem, however, by placing
magnets in both spacesuits and spacecraft.
Only a few people and animals will travel to outer space, but many will
experience cellular imbalances caused by depolarization right here on earth
whenever their biomagnetic fields are disrupted by accident, injury, or
illness. They may also be disrupted by over-exposure to the electromagnetic
fields produced by all of the electronic equipment to which we and our pets
are exposed on a daily basis.
However, by applying specific types of magnets to the affected parts of the
body, those imbalances can be corrected. The only tools you need are
therapeutically designed magnets, and something to help them stay in place
long enough to provide benefits. We’ll talk more about the kind of magnets
that are designed for therapeutic use a little later in this chapter.
What magnetic therapy can be used for
There’s an ever-growing list of possible uses for magnets for both
animals and people. It would require a very long list to include all of those
uses, but in this section, we’ll highlight some of the more important reasons
you might consider using magnetic therapy for your pets, or for yourself.
• Pain relief—Magnets can provide relief from muscle pain, spasms,
tension, leg cramps, joint pain, tendonitis, torn ligaments, arthritis, back
pain, ear pain, headaches, and the pain of minor burns.
• Improving circulation and reducing inflammation—Magnetic therapy helps
to dilate blood vessels and send more blood flow to an injured area. It also
promotes healing by reducing inflammation. Magnets can be useful in cases
of head injuries, heart disease, asthma, amputation, and dermatitis, as well as
being helpful for relieving diabetes-related symptoms of numbness, pain,
and tingling in the feet. They’re also beneficial to use in cases of inflamed,
red, itchy skin (eczema).
• Reducing swelling—If magnets are applied immediately after trauma to the
tissues, they can be used for common sprains, bumps, and bruises, in lieu of
ice packs and compression, with potentially better benefits. Minimizing
swelling means there’ll be less pain and faster healing.
• Correcting imbalances in the central nervous system—Epileptic seizures,
panic attacks, and hallucinations may all respond to the use of magnetic
therapy, potentially reducing the need for tranquilizers and antidepressants.
• Speeding up healing—When the two ends of a bone fracture don’t readily
reunite, magnetic therapy has often helped bring them together again
successfully. It’s also beneficial for use in cases of asthma, bronchitis, and
certain cancerous tumors (but only with proper precautions that don’t
stimulate cell growth). Magnets can be used prior to surgery over the area
where the incision will be made, after surgery over the sutured area, and to
help reduce scar tissue.
• Increasing immune function—Magnetic therapy is useful for oxygenating
white blood cells. By promoting lower acidity, it also makes it more difficult
for microbes to survive.
• Reducing stress and depression and improving sleep—A magnetic field
applied to the head (for example, with a magnetic pillow pad) helps to
stimulate the production of melatonin, which is known to reduce stress,
induce sleep, and help with depression.
• Enhancing energy, endurance, and performance—Race horses and dogs,
who compete in sporting events, show evidence of increased stamina when
magnets are used.
Magnetic therapy for animals can be helpful in cases of spinal and other
forms of arthritis, paralysis, chronic disc disease, and hip dysplasia. It can
also provide relief for animals who move stiffly or slowly, especially
following strenuous exercise, or for those who have difficulty rising and
walking again after a prolonged period of sleep or rest.
Magnets should never be the only therapy used in cases of serious
medical conditions, but they do work well when used together with
modalities such as acupuncture, acupressure, massage, compresses, vitamin
and mineral supplements, and traditional forms of treatment.
Using magnets for your pets
Magnets can be very healing and comforting for almost any dog, cat, or
horse, and you can see from the list above how many chronic and/or painful
conditions may respond well to the use of magnetic therapy.
But how do you begin to properly use magnets for your pet? The initial
step is to have your pet’s condition diagnosed by his or her veterinarian. You
can do more for your pet when you know clearly what it is you’re trying to
treat.
If necessary, find a veterinarian who’s familiar with magnetic therapy and
can tell you exactly where to place the magnets, and what size and strength
to use. You can also find guidance in the book Complementary and
Alternative Veterinary Medicine: Principles and Practice by Allen M.
Schoen and Susan G. Wynn. Some veterinarians may have this book as a
reference, and might let you study it while you’re at the clinic.
You should use the best therapeutic quality magnets you can for your
pet, as well as the right size and strength. The size of the magnet, or
magnets, depends on the size of your pet and the size of the area that needs
to be treated. The larger the pet, the stronger the magnet will need to be.
Try to find magnetic therapy products specially designed for use on
animals . For daytime use, when your pet is active, use wraps or collars that
will keep the magnets securely in place. For nighttime use, consider a
magnetic bed or a pad for your pet to sleep on.
Some pets adapt to magnetic therapy immediately, but others need some
time to adjust. If your pet falls into the “needs time to adjust” category, be
patient. Use the magnets only for a short time several times a day, or let your
pet decide how long he or she wants to sleep on a magnetic pad. Eventually,
most pets will find their own comfort level.
In the next section, be sure to read the cautions about circumstances in
which magnets should not be used.
Safe use of magnetic therapy
Magnets are both safe and non-invasive. Unlike medications, which have
to be taken internally and have an effect on the entire body, magnets are used
externally, and only on those targeted locations where treatment is actually
needed.
When it comes to pain relief, they’re often as effective, and sometimes
even more effective, than drugs for the same purpose. They can do, from
outside the body, what drugs are typically used to do inside the body, and
they can do it without any of the undesirable side effects.
Magnets can also safely be used around bone plates and pins. That’s
because these implants, which are used to help fractures or broken bones
heal properly, are made of an antimagnetic material. Plaster casts aren’t a
problem either because magnetic fields will penetrate right through plaster
casts.
If magnets are used for the first time for a chronic condition, for instance
where tissues haven’t been receiving adequate blood flow for some time, the
problem may seem to get a little worse at first. This is usually only a the
problem may seem to get a little worse at first. This is usually only a 48
hours.
 If your pet seems to be experiencing more discomfort than before, you
can decrease the length of time he or she wears the magnet during the first
few days. Once adequate blood flow has been restored to the affected area,
you can then gradually increase the length of time the magnets are worn. If
the problem persists, be sure to check with your veterinarian.
There are several cautions about circumstances when the use of magnets
should be avoided.
• Magnets should not be used around the abdomen of pregnant pets.
However, wearing them on the shoulders and legs may be acceptable if the
fetuses won’t be exposed to the magnetic field when the magnets are placed
in those positions.
• A pet with an implanted electronic device, such as a pacemaker, needs to
avoid having magnets placed over the area of the heart, or even on the back,
in the area behind the heart.
• Magnets increase blood flow, so they should not be used by pets who are
receiving anticoagulants or who have polycythemia (an excess of red blood
cells). Magnets should also not be used on any wound that is actively
bleeding. However, once the blood has begun to coagulate and the wound
shows signs of beginning to heal, a magnet can then safely be applied to
promote further healing.
• Although magnets have been used to treat certain types of cancerous
tumors, it’s extremely important to know how to do it properly, and it’s best
to do it only under the direction of a professional.
• If magnet therapy might be beneficial, in addition to traditional forms of
treatment for a cancerous tumor, you must be sure to use the right type of
magnet. This should probably be a monopole or unipolar magnet, with the
negative (north) pole side placed against the body.
• The negative (north) pole of a magnet is thought to create an oxygen-rich
environment, and cancer cells don’t thrive where there’s an abundance of
oxygen. Using the positive (south) pole, on the other hand, could potentially
create rapid cellular growth, which you definitely don’t want when cancer
cells are present. (You’ll find more information about the north and south
poles of magnets, and various magnet designs, in the section below about
Polarity.)
• Magnets, or at least bipolar magnets, are not recommended for use in the
presence of any viral, bacterial, or fungal infections, including candida. This
caution has to do with the fact that the south (positive) pole of a magnet is
thought to promote cell growth.
How long to use magnets
How long magnets should be left in place depends on the animal and on
the condition being treated.
One way to use them is to put them in place for anywhere from ten minutes
to an hour several times per day. Another is to wear the magnets all day, but
not at night, or use them all night, but not during the day. There may be
times, though, even if your pet sleeps on a magnetic bed at night, when you
might also need to treat on and off during the day. The main consideration
for taking at least some time off is to prevent the animal from becoming
desensitized to the good effects of magnetic therapy.
However, there are some conditions when a much longer application is
desirable, or even necessary, without any time off. In this case, you might
have your pet sleep on a bed or a pad that has magnets embedded in it, and
use a magnetic wrap during the daytime.
If your pet hasn’t experienced noticeable relief after approximately 30 days,
the magnets you’re using may need to be positioned differently, they may
need to be stronger, you may need to use a different type of polarity, you
may even need to use a different type of magnet, or it may be that magnets
aren’t the appropriate form of therapy to use for your pet’s condition.
Before discontinuing the use of a magnet that doesn’t seem to be working,
you should try placing it directly over the nearest acupuncture point first to
see if that will bring about any improvement. You can find diagrams that
show the location of acupuncture points in acupuncture books and on some
Internet websites.
How to select therapeutic magnets
Magnets for therapeutic use come in a variety of sizes, shapes, strengths,
and polarities. For this reason, it’s helpful to have at least some basic
information about them before you go shopping.
The information below should be regarded only as a general guideline.
This is the kind of product you’ll need to research further, or ask a
professional about, before making a decision about what to purchase for use
on your pet, or on yourself for that matter.
To be effective, a magnet needs to have the right strength and thickness,
and it needs to be a little larger than the area being treated. If you’re using
multiple small magnets, they need to be spaced properly.
Strength
The strength of a magnet is measured using the term “gauss.” The higher
the gauss, the stronger the magnet will be.
For example, a typical refrigerator magnet is only about 10 gauss, while the
strength of an MRI magnet may measure up to 30,000 gauss. Refrigerator
magnets, magnets that come on the backs of calendars, or a child’s toy
magnet would probably be ineffective because they wouldn’t be strong
enough to do anything more than barely penetrate the skin.
Therapeutic magnets, depending on their use, usually measure somewhere
from 100 to 10,000 gauss. Most will probably measure between 200 and
1,000 gauss, though in certain cases, an even stronger magnet will be
required to provide effective results.
When purchasing magnets, it may help to know the strength of the magnet
both on the surface and at its core. If the magnetic field has to penetrate
through a thick layer of skin, the gauss at the surface of the magnet will have
to be high enough to accomplish this, or it may not make any real difference.
If a manufacturer uses a design that stacks several magnets close together in
the same direction, there will be a stronger magnetic field that will penetrate
more deeply.
Thickness
The thicker a magnet is, the deeper the effect will penetrate. You can use a
thinner magnet for areas of the body close to the surface, but you’ll need a
thicker one for treating certain deeper areas of the body, for example, in a
case of hip dysplasia. You don’t want a magnet to be so thick, though, that it
becomes uncomfortable to wear. Usually 1/4th to 3/8ths of an inch may
work well in most cases.
Polarity
You’ll see words like “monopolar,” “unipolar,” “bipolar,” and “quadripolar”
used to describe the polarity of magnets. Every magnet has to have two
poles, north and south, so the words “monopolar” and “unipolar” are
misleading at first.
In layman’s terms, a monopolar or unipolar magnet has only one field on
each side (a north pole on one side and a south pole on the other), while a
bipolar magnet has a mixed north and south field on each side of the magnet.
It’s thought that this mix may help balance the effects of either pole.
Some scientists think the north (negative) pole has calming effects, while
the south (positive) pole has stimulating effects. There’s some disagreement,
or at least very little research, about this in scientific circles.
However, if it is true, then the north pole of a magnet would be better
used for the purpose of reducing swelling, relieving pain, sending more
oxygen to the tissues, calming the nervous system, and promoting sleep. The
south pole of a unipolar magnet would be better used for exactly the
opposite purposes. Since the south pole, according to this theory, may
accelerate cell growth, it should not be used to treat cancerous growths.
A quadripolar magnet is actually a special arrangement of four magnets,
and according to research done at Vanderbilt University, this design can be
significantly more effective for relieving pain than magnets using other
designs. That’s because the quadripolar design is said to stop pain signals
instead of just minimizing them.
Veterinarians usually recommend using the north pole of a monopole or
unipolar magnet, but many veterinarians, medical doctors, and people who
regularly use magnetic therapy have also had success using bipolar or
quadripolar magnets.
Size
The magnet needs to be slightly larger than the area being treated. This
means you could use something as small as a coin-sized magnet, or one that
covers a much larger surface area of the body. You can also use several
smaller magnets to cover a larger area as long as they’re placed close enough
together to keep the magnetic field uniform across the entire area being
treated.
The directions that come with a set of small magnets should tell you how
far apart they should, or shouldn’t, be, and how to position the magnets so
you’re getting a true north (negative) pole effect. If they’re not positioned
correctly, there may be a south (positive) pole effect that would reduce the
overall effectiveness of the treatment.
Padding
Normally, there needs to be a thin padding between the magnet and the body,
though with pets, the thickness of their fur may serve this purpose. Material
Magnets made from neodymium or ceramic are considered to be more
powerful than the plastalloy type.
Types
Circular or rectangular magnets are best for therapeutic use. Avoid
horseshoe and bar shaped magnets because these are usually magnetized
only at the ends.
 Small magnets may be purchased with self-adhesive strips, but these
may be difficult to remove from a pet’s fur. You can still use small magnets,
however, by placing them inside a piece of material or velcro type bandage,
which you can then wrap around the appropriate part of your pet’s body.
This keeps the magnets in place for prolonged treatment.
There are also beds, pads, blankets, wraps, and collars for dogs and cats,
and blankets for horses, that come with magnets embedded in them.
Magnetic products have the added benefit of helping to eliminate fleas since
fleas can’t tolerate the effects of a magnetic field.
Where to buy
The sale of magnets has become a very big business in recent years.
Some are very costly while others are very inexpensive. Since this is the
case, you’ll need to exercise discretion when you’re purchasing a magnet to
be certain you’re getting quality that’s truly therapeutic.
If you’re having difficulty finding reliable sources, try doing an Internet
search on “magnetic therapy+animals”. Another resource you might use is
the list of “Where to Get Magnetic Products” at the back of Gary Null’s
book, Healing With Magnets. Look for reputable companies that offer a 30-
day (or longer) money-back guarantee in case your pet doesn’t experience
significant relief in that length of time. You’ll also find substantial additional
information, as well as products for pets, on this British website:
www.worldofmagnets.co.uk/articles/animals.htm.
8: Reflexology
R
eflexology is a wonderfully relaxing and invigorating form of therapy.
While it’s often administered by a professional, you can easily learn some of
the basics to use at home on animals and humans alike. It’s not only
beneficial for relieving physical problems, but it can also relieve some
emotional, behavioral, and fear-based problems of pets, as well as humans.
Reflexology is a non-invasive touch technique performed with the hands.
It doesn’t require the use of any tools or medicines to aid in healing. It uses
either gentle compression or a motion referred to as “thumb-walking,” a
movement similar to that of an inchworm moving across the skin, but not
intentionally moving the skin back and forth. This touch technique is
different from that of massage, and may even be more relaxing and
rejuvenating than massage. The beneficial effects of reflexology may also
last longer.
Reflexology is usually done on the feet, but it can also be done on the
hands and the ears of a person. For a pet, it’s done on the paws, legs, and
ears. It brings the body back into balance by helping to release toxins and by
increasing circulation. It’s also incredibly relaxing, and when the body is in a
relaxed state, it can then much more easily do its own self-healing work.
The intriguing thing about reflexology is that the feet, hands, and ears of
a person, and the paws, legs, and ears of an animal, are each like miniature
replicas of the entire body. There are nerve endings and energy pathways in
each of these locations that correspond to specific locations on the body and
to each internal organ. When these reflex points are touched in specific
ways, they can actually influence related parts of the body in a positive way.
If a reflexology point is tender or painful when the point is touched, it’s
an indication there may be an existing or potential problem in the
corresponding internal organ or related part of the body.
However, if those nerve endings are stimulated by steady compression,
or by moving the pads of the thumbs and fingers into the skin and underlying
tissue using gentle pressure, it sends a flow of oxygen-rich blood to the part
of the body or the organ that’s in need of help. This can often eliminate the
pain, and when the pain at the reflex point is eliminated, the problem in the
corresponding organ or part of the body can also be minimized, or it may
even disappear altogether.
Because reflexology helps detect problems before they become fullblown, it
can be a very useful tool to prevent potential problems from turning into
severe illnesses or debilitating conditions.
By now, you may be thinking reflexology would be a wonderful therapy
to use for your pet, but you have a major concern. Your pet won’t let
anybody touch her paws. Not to worry. If you use the appropriate techniques
described later in this chapter, they’ll help your pet understand that good
things happen when someone touches her paws, legs, and ears!

Reflexology in ancient and modern times

Reflexology is a complementary therapy that’s been around for a very

long time. Though not always known by that name, reflexology techniques
have been found in ancient cultures including China, India, and Egypt. In the
United States, there’s evidence that it was used by American Indians as early
as the 17th century.
Most research doesn’t identify exactly when reflexology came into use in
modern times. However, we do know that Dr. William Fitzgerald brought the
first form of reflexology to western culture around 1913. He’d studied
medicine and graduated from the University of Vermont in 1895, then
traveled extensively in England and Europe.
During his travels he apparently discovered healing techniques that
intrigued him. He brought those ideas back and developed a technique he
then called “Zone Therapy.” As far as we can determine, this therapy was
the forerunner in the western world to what, in 1961, eventually became
known as Reflexology.
Dr. Joe Shelby Riley, of Washington D.C. learned “zone therapy” from
Dr. Fitzgerald and used this method extensively in his practice for many
years. He made the first detailed diagrams and drawings of the reflex points
located on the feet. Riley’s work with reflexes and zones also included
limited reflexes on the ear.
During the early 1930s, Eunice Ingham worked with Dr. Riley as his
physical therapist in St. Petersburg, Florida, and is credited with further
developing reflexology techniques. She expanded on Dr. Riley’s drawings,
creating charts to document specific reflex points on the feet. She discovered
she could detect congestion or tension in various parts of each foot that
mirrored congestion or tension in the corresponding internal organ or part of
the body. Her ability to tell doctors what was wrong with their patients,
when even they didn’t know, often astounded them. Her contribution to
reflexology has been profound.

What can reflexology do?

Reflexology continues to surprise people who try it for the first time, and
people are often surprised by what happens to their pets when they try it on
them for the first time, too. It’s very relaxing, so much so that an animal or a
person may even fall sound asleep.
If you or your pet have a problem that developed only recently, the
results of a single session may be enough to correct it. Problems of longer
duration, of course, will require more sessions.
Following a session, you or your pet may experience any of the following
benefits:
• A feeling of relaxation and balance
• A sense of well being
• A noticeable reduction in tension and stress
• Better energy and vitality
• Relief from pain
• Relief from other aggravating symptoms
• An improved immune system
• Improved circulation
• An improvement from previously low energy or depression
• More balance in previously overly stimulated areas
• Better muscle tone
• Improvement in sleep patterns

What health problems can be helped by reflexology?

Animals in the wild rarely if ever get diseases, yet our domestic pets
suffer from many of the same illnesses we do, including cancer, heart
disease, diabetes, arthritis, allergies, insomnia, and obesity. They also suffer
from emotional problems that are unknown among animals in the wild.
That no doubt happens because they share our stressful lifestyles and
because they’re exposed to the same environmental toxins and processed
foods we are. Just as our immune systems are compromised by these factors,
our pets’ immune systems are equally compromised, so they’re just as likely
to become sick as we are.
Not every disease can be helped by reflexology, but reflexology can be
used to reduce or eliminate many problems we humans and our pets have in
common, and pet owners will be happy to know it’s also useful for treating
fear, aggression, and other behavioral problems in animals.
Some of the health problems reflexology can help resolve, in both pets and
people, include:
• Pain of many types - recent onset or chronic
• Shoulder and neck stiffness
• Back pain
• Foot or knee pain
• Migraines and other headaches
• Sports injuries
• Diabetes
• Arthritis
• Nausea
• Digestive disorders
• Dizziness
• Poor circulation
• Stress
• Anxiety
• Grief
• Insomnia
• Other sleep disorders
• Weakness in the immune system
• Toxicity
• Sinusitis
• Eczema
• Hormonal and glandular problems
• Fertility problems
• Pregnancy discomfort
There are even some known cases where people have been able to avoid
major surgery, or have been told by their primary physician they no longer
have asthma following a series of reflexology sessions.
 And the benefits so many have experienced from reflexology aren’t all
just anecdotal reports either. There are many published studies providing
evidence that reflexology can be helpful for a variety of conditions.
It’s even possible for reflexology to help with the symptoms of
something as serious as diabetes. After several sessions, the pancreas may
begin to work more efficiently, insulin levels may be closer to normal, and
loss of feeling may even be restored to feet that have gone numb.
Just about any part of a pet’s or a person’s body can be strengthened
through the use of reflexology. If points on the feet are tender, then the body
is using those tender points to try to tell you where it needs help.

How does reflexology work?

In general, the answer is, nobody knows for sure, but the theories fall into
four main categories:
Microcosm Theory
According to this theory, each point on the foot corresponds to a specific
organ or part of the body because the foot is simply a microcosm of the
larger body. Stimulating a point on the foot will cause a reaction in the organ
or part of the body to which that point corresponds. This is also true for
points on the hands and the ears.
Blood Circulation Theory
In this theory, it’s believed that certain substances will settle in the feet
because of gravity. These substances will eventually cause blockages in the
circulatory system and affect the organs to which they correspond. The
pressure or massaging action applied during a reflexology session breaks up
these blockages so blood can flow freely throughout the circulatory system.
Nerve and Humoral Regulation Theory
This theory is based on the idea that, when certain internal organs or
body parts aren’t functioning properly, the improper function shows up in
the feet. A reflexologist may describe the area he or she is touching as
“ropey,” “crunchy,” “tight,” or as having “air pockets,” and those points may
actually be painful when they’re touched. But gently massaging or putting
steady pressure on those points will “work them out.” The change that takes
place in the reflex point will be communicated to the nerve centers in the
brain, and the brain will convey the correction to the corresponding organ or
body part. The body will then use its own natural healing ability to make the
correction in the actual organ or affected part of the body.
Channels and Collaterals Theory
The fourth theory has its basis in Chinese medicine. Chinese medicine
works on the principle that there are channels or meridians running from the
head, through the entire body, and ending in the feet. Life force energy, or
Ch’i, flows through these channels. If there’s a blockage anywhere in these
meridians, it’s called stagnation, and it will show up in the feet as a painful
reflex point. But, if that point is gently reflexed, or if steady pressure is
applied to it, the stagnation can be broken up, and the pain at the reflex point
will diminish. When the blockage has been eliminated, the energy can then
flow freely again, and healing will occur naturally in whatever organ or part
of the body was affected.
Each of these theories is a very plausible way to explain how reflexology
works. The main thing is that whenever the tender locations, or any
“deposits” of material that shouldn’t be there, are “worked out,” the
corresponding physiological problem in the body can be relieved and may
even disappear.

Reflexology and animals

People walk and maintain their balance using the entire length of both
feet, but animals (mainly dogs and cats) essentially walk on only the toes
and balls of their feet (namely, the pads of their paws). Yet, they remain
incredibly well balanced, even on two hind legs at times, and they can run at
high rates of speed over both smooth and uneven terrain. Some dogs also
participate in the rigors of agility competition or search and rescue efforts,
which pose additional challenges when it comes to maintaining steady
balance.
Whatever their activity level, if animals are actively moving around from
place to place, especially under challenging conditions, they can experience
aches and pains in their paws and legs, just as we do when we’re on our feet
for extended periods of time. A soothing reflexology session at home after a
long day can provide our pets with the same kind of relief we enjoy.
Our pets’ feet also have to adapt to their weight, to the way they walk, to
the way they stand, to changes in their overall health, and even to what
emotions they’re feeling at the moment. Just by observing those
characteristics in an animal, a reflexologist (or you, with a little training) can
often tell immediately what points on their feet and legs are affecting their
health, their state of mind, and their emotions. And a relaxing reflexology
session may be just the therapy our pets need to bring their bodies and their
emotions back into balance.
Working with “foot” points on pets
If you want to do reflexology on your pet, you need to know how an
animal’s “foot” differs from a human foot. On an animal, the whole “foot”
includes not only the paws, but also the hock—the lower part of the leg that
extends all the way up to the hock joint where the leg first bends.
The paws on an animal are equivalent to just the toes, or the toes and the
ball of a human foot. An animal’s hock, or lower leg, is equivalent to the
human instep, and the animal’s hock joint is equivalent to the heel of the
human foot.
In a human foot, all parts of it touch the ground—the toes, the ball of the
foot, the instep, and the heel. On an animal, however, the parts of the foot
we’d call the instep (the lower leg) and the heel (the part closest to the hock
joint) never touch the ground during walking as those parts of our feet do.
This is true for dogs, cats, and horses.
If you’re doing reflexology on an animal’s “whole” foot, it means you
need to work on more than just the paws. In fact, working only on the paws
alone may be more irritating than calming. You need to work all the way
from the paws up to the hock joint in order to reach the reflexology points
that represent the buttock, hip, and lower back.
A typical reflexology session for pets
For humans, a session begins with a gentle massaging and flexing of the
foot to bring about a sense of relaxation before any “real work” begins. The
same is true for pets.
With your pet lying on her side, you’re going to hold her whole foot in
your hands and gently use motions that turn it, stretch it, and “wring” it,
much as you would a wet cloth.
Stretch the foot slowly backward and hold it for a moment, then stretch it
a little bit more. Next, stretch the foot slowly forward, holding it for a
moment, then stretch it a little bit more.
Also hold the tail at the base with both hands and gently pull back on it.
Your pet will probably pull forward a little bit because this pulling action
feels good on the spine and neck.
Remember to breathe while you’re doing these initial exercises, and watch
your pet’s breathing also.
Once the animal is relaxed, you can gently touch specific points on the
paws, the hock, and the hock joint using either gentle compression or
“thumbwalking.”
Normally, one hand should be supporting the part of the body you’re
working on, and the fingers or thumb of your other hand should be used to
do the reflexing.
Compression is applied by holding your thumb or fingers in place on the
correct reflex point and exerting a gentle but steady pressure.
To perform the “thumbwalking” motion, begin by applying pressure with the
soft part of the reflexing thumb placed horizontally on the correct reflex
location. As you bend your thumb vertically, deeper pressure is then applied
with the tip of the thumb. Keep moving the thumb from the horizontal
position up to the vertical position and back to the horizontal position.
As your thumb rocks up to the tip and back onto the soft, flat part, it will
gradually begin to move forward in a motion similar to the way an
inchworm moves. Don’t intentionally move the skin back and forth in the
process, however, and be sure your nails are short enough that they won’t
dig into the skin and cause discomfort.
The more often you work with your pet, the more you’ll develop a sense of
anything that feels “unusual” or “different.”
If your pet pulls away when you touch a certain point, you may have found a
painful spot. Don’t ignore it. Very gently move your thumb or fingers around
in that area by going up, down, and in circles in both directions, holding
each position momentarily. Repeat this motion in different places on the
entire foot. Alternatively, you may be able to apply gentle steady pressure on
the painful location for a few moments.
The pain should diminish or go away altogether. Not only will it go away at
the reflexology point on the paw, lower leg, and hock joint, but it should also
go away in the part of the body that’s associated with that particular
reflexology point.
On an animal’s foot, the toes correspond to the area of the head so you’d
work on them for headaches, as well as eye and ear problems. The paw pads
correspond to the lungs, while the metatarsal/instep area of the lower right
leg corresponds to the liver, gallbladder, and ascending colon. The
metatarsal/instep area on the lower left leg corresponds to the stomach,
spleen, and pancreas.
How will you know, in more detail, what point on the foot corresponds to a
specific part of the body? I found a manual, a DVD, and some pet
reflexology charts available from two different websites. Although I haven’t
reviewed any of them personally, they look as if they’d be very helpful.
The website www.petreflexology.net offers an instructional pet reflexology
DVD, as well as reflexology charts.
The website www.touchpointreflexology.com features a small but interesting
diagram that helps to illustrate the close relationship of the foot to the body.
The “store” on the same website also offers a manual about reflexology for
animals by Yvette Eastman. Her articles have been excellent resources for
some of the information in this chapter.
Touching a pet’s paws
Many animals are very sensitive about having their feet touched under
any conditions. At first, they’ll automatically pull away, even when no pain
is involved. They need time to discover that good things happen when you
touch their feet, and they need to learn to trust you.
If you get your pet as a puppy, it’s important to begin right away to
gently touch and hold its paws several times a day so the puppy becomes
used to the feeling. If you adopt an older dog, he or she can also become
accustomed to having the paws touched regularly, though it may take a little
longer.
One technique you can try begins by stroking the front of the upper part
of the leg with just one finger. Gradually work your way around to the sides
and back of the upper part of the leg. As your pet learns to accept a touch in
this area, gradually move lower and lower down each leg on the front, sides,
and back, still stroking with only one finger. Eventually, your pet will let you
stroke with your finger all the way from the upper part of the leg to the tip of
the paw.
When your pet willingly accepts the touch of a single finger, you can
then use several fingers for awhile. As your pet begins to trust you more and
more, you’ll soon be able to grasp a leg gently with your closed hand, and
then even massage the paw.
Another technique is to place your open hand under your pet’s paw and
simply let the paw rest against your hand. After you’ve done this several
times a day for several days, you should be able to gradually close your hand
gently over the paw and begin massaging it. Remember, you need to
accustom your pet to having all four paws touched, so if you can’t do all four
paws every day, rotate which paws you work with from one day to the next.
If your pet is particularly sensitive about having her paws touched, you
may need to desensitize her using these gentle, progressive techniques for
awhile before you can use reflexology on her yourself. However, a trained
reflexologist may be able to gain the pet’s trust more quickly, so a couple of
sessions with a professional might be worth your while.
Working with other points on pets
While the paws and legs are the primary areas for applying reflexology
techniques, the ears and “hands” (front of the paws), and even a point below
the eyes, are other areas to treat. These points often work very well when
your pet is stressed or afraid.
For example, if your pet becomes particularly agitated when she hears
fireworks or thunder, tap gently just below the eyes on one or both sides.
Keep tapping on this fear release point until you sense some relaxation in
your pet. At the same time make positive statements, in a soothing voice,
telling your pet how wonderful she is, how much you love her, and how
proud you are that she’s becoming so calm and brave. Saying these things
assures you’re sending her positive feelings, and not transmitting your own
fears and worries to her.
For fear, grief, and other behavioral issues, tap below the eyes, but also
tap repeatedly on the outside portion of her paw (her hand) for awhile. At the
same time, express your positive thoughts in a gentle voice about the kinds
of behaviors you like to see in her, how much you care about her, how safe
she is, and how healthy and well balanced she is. Then place your hand on
her forehead. Wait until you feel a “shift” in yourself, then exhale a relaxing
breath, and let go. You should also see a “shift” in your pet’s behavior,
including the way she now walks and moves.
The ears are also miniature replicas of the entire body that respond well
to touch, and you can produce a very calming effect by stroking them both
inside and outside. The very tips of the ears are especially sensitive
relaxation points. You can hold them with gentle pressure whenever your pet
seems stressed, fearful, or agitated. Holding the tips of the ears has even
helped to bring some animals out of a state of shock.
You can treat all three points (under the eyes, the front of the paw, and
the ears) regularly, and even more than one time per day if you wish. This
becomes maintenance therapy, and you may find your pet no longer reacts to
certain situations when you’re doing this.
***
Using reflexology techniques is a relaxing and loving way to strengthen
the bond you share with your pets, while at the same time helping to reduce
their stress, strengthen their immune systems, and relieve their pain.
Reflexology is also effective for reducing or eliminating many of our
pets emotional, fear-based, and behavioral problems. And when you’re
experienced enough to recognize certain signs, it’s also a way to detect and
correct problems that are just beginning somewhere in the body before they
become serious enough to require veterinary intervention.
Considering the wide range of benefits available for pets through
reflexology, it’s probably one of the most effective and loving gifts you can
give to your pets, whether you have it done by a professional or you do it
yourself.
9: Massage
G
iving your pets a therapeutic massage creates a sense of intimacy and trust
that’s found only in this kind of close relationship.
A massage is an opportunity to bond with your pet as he or she takes
great delight in such a loving experience. In addition, you may personally
enjoy the side benefit of finding your own blood pressure and stress levels
reduced while you’re tending to your pet.
There are two main reasons for using massage therapy. One is to bring
about relaxation and encourage the flow of energy in your pet’s body. The
other is to provide pain relief.
Many massage strokes actually follow the path in which the blood flows.
Using these strokes helps to remove harmful waste and toxins so that
oxygen-rich blood can circulate more freely throughout your pet’s body.
This effect makes massage an important and enjoyable tool you can use to
keep your pet in a continuous state of good health.
You may also be aware of times when your pet is experiencing muscular
discomfort or pain, especially if he or she shows a resistance or
unwillingness to move in a normal manner. If there’s stiffness or pain in a
muscle, it may even cause a pet to react with undesirable behaviors. But
through the use of massage, that muscle tenderness, pain, or spasm can be
released.
When you’re doing a full body massage for your pet, you’ll also be
amazed at some interesting things you may discover. Your pet’s body will
begin to “speak” to you, showing you subtle changes that even an everyday
brushing can’t reveal. The clues you pick up during a massage may even
prompt you to seek veterinary attention soon enough to prevent a problem
from becoming worse.
For example, you’ll know if your pet has a new cut, a fast or a slow
growing lump, any unusual tenderness, or a developing skin problem.
Maybe that cyst you’ve always been aware of is becoming larger, or ribs you
begin to feel more, or less, noticeably may be an indication of weight loss, or
weight gain, that needs attention. Recognizing these changes in the early
stages, so that you can “Do something,” is one of the side benefits of
massaging your pet regularly.
 There are times when a massage should not be given to an animal,
however. This would be true if your pet has enlarged lymph glands, a
fracture, a sprain, a cut, a ruptured vertebral disk, a blood blister, fever, or
any abnormal tenderness. If none of these conditions are present, then by all
means, give your pet the enjoyment and benefits of a loving massage
regularly.

What can a massage do for your pet?

Therapeutic massage has been used by the Chinese, the Egyptians, the
Phoenicians, the Romans, and the Greeks as far back as 2000 BC according
to the earliest written accounts. It’s also been the subject of many chapters in
medical literature, both old and new.
Some of the documented benefits of massage you may discover for your
own pet include:
• An experience of deep relaxation
• Relief for tired or sore muscles, especially after exercise
• Release of tight muscles once circulation has been stimulated
• Less pain and swelling in the joints because inflammation has been
reduced
• Improved muscle tone and range of motion
• Relief of pain from surgery or injuries
• Relief of some of the conditions of old age
• Faster healing because excess fluids and toxins have been released and
nutrients flow out to all parts of the body
• The benefit of a body that’s in better overall physical condition
And let’s not forget that massage is a loving way to increase your animal's
trust and to deepen the bond between you and your pet.

What to expect from your pet during a massage

You may notice some deep sighs, yawns, or even a look of appreciation
from your pet when you’re giving him a massage. Other indications of
enjoyment to watch for include kisses or other displays of affection, “soft”
or “dreamy” eyes, leaning in or moving closer, and a shift in position or
posture telling you your pet is becoming even more relaxed.
 If your animal appears to fall asleep or actually does so—
congratulations! That’s a sure sign you’ve been giving an exceptionally good
massage.
On the other hand, you should also be aware of signs such as tiny muscle
spasms, tightness in a muscle or group of muscles, small shifts in body
alignment, or a change in your pet’s breathing. If your pet flinches or pulls
away, this usually means you’re touching a tender or sensitive spot, so you
need to be sure your touch is very light and careful, and that there’s no
serious injury present that might need professional attention.
If your pet snarls, growls, bares his teeth, or shows any similar sign of
discontent or discomfort, pay special attention. The place you’re touching
may be causing him pain, or he may simply be telling you he’s not ready to
have a massage at this time. If you see any of these signs, wait until later
when your pet is ready.
Above all, enjoy this special time together. Your pet will love you for it and
you’ll see a marked improvement in your relationship in as little as three or
four days of giving daily massages.

When to begin

Start a massage when your pet is inclined to relax. This might be after
some vigorous exercise, following a major competition, or anytime you
know your pet is ready.
Just as your pet needs to be ready to receive a massage, you also need to
be ready to give one.
Make sure you’re in the right frame of mind before you begin. If you’ve had
a bad day, calm yourself first before you start. Animals are very sensitive to
our energies and emotions, and when we’re stressed, they’ll feel it too.
A few moments of quiet meditation can often help you prepare yourself to
make this a loving, soothing experience for both you and your pet.

Massage exercises for dogs

Exercise #1

Find a quiet place and ask your pet to lie down beside you.
Begin at his head and slide your hand all the way down his back to the base of his tail. Do this stroke
2-3 times. This is the relaxing stage.
 If your dog is small enough, and is lying on his back, try gently rocking his body back and forth
until you can tell that his muscles are completely relaxed. You may even be able to do this for a larger
dog when he’s lying on his back by positioning yourself at his head,
placing your hands on either side of his shoulders, then creating a gentle rocking motion.
Next, starting at the base of the neck, let your fingers apply gentle pressure in a circular motion—a
shiatsu movement—on both sides of the spine as you gently massage your way down your dog’s back
to the base of the tail. You’re kneading the soft tissue on either side of the spine when you’re doing
this, but you’re not putting pressure on the spine itself.
When you reach the base of the spine, firmly hold the whole tail with a squeeze, sliding your hand up
until you reach the tip of it. Do this a second time starting again at the base of the neck. On the third
time, do it backwards starting at the tip of the tail and ending at the base of the neck.
Now that your hands are back at the base of the neck, move them higher onto the head, massaging
the back and top of the head with a circular motion.
Continue onto the forehead and then to the ears. (If your pet is lying on his side, you’ll do one side
first and then roll him over so you can do the other side.)
Grasp the whole ear at the base so your thumb is near the entrance of the ear canal and your fingers are
on the back of the ear.
Then with your thumb on the inside leather of the ear and your fingers on the furry side, press your
thumb and fingers together, gently squeezing the ear between them, as your thumb and fingers move
upward together to the outer edges of the ear.
Do this to each ear, and end the gentle strokes by keeping your thumb and fingers pressed at the
very tip of the ear (or outer edges for a dog with floppy ears), for a count of five.
(If your dog tends to pull away when you hold his ear this way, try placing your thumb and fingers
on the outsides of the ear from the back. As you move your thumb and fingers toward the tips, you’ll
be closing both sides of the ear together. End the stroke by keeping your fingers pressed at the very tip
of each ear for a count of five.) Next, massage the front and rear legs on one side of the body, starting
at the spine. Use long, soothing strokes on the outside, and then on the inside, of each leg.
At this time you can also massage your pet’s underside all the way from the chest area down the
abdomen.
Then hold both the front and rear legs on one side of the body and gently stretch them back and forth
as if your pet were running. Roll your dog over and massage the front and rear legs and undercarriage
on the other side of his body.
Finally, grasp his face and massage his cheeks. Run your fingers very lightly and gently over his eyes
and over his nose.
Take this opportunity to lift the fold of his lips and look at his teeth. Are they white or yellow? Are
the gums red or bleeding? Does he have bad breath? Any negative signs will require veterinary
intervention.
Exercise #2
This simple technique is often called therapeutic touch, or you might find
it referred to as energy balancing. It’s a powerful way of centering, relaxing,
and grounding that’s often helpful for animals who have behavioral
problems as well as physical ailments.
Because this form of massage balances energy, it’s particularly helpful
for hyperactive or nervous animals, for those who fear loud noises such as
thunderstorms or fireworks, and for those who need to rebalance their
physical bodies after surgery or an injury. This type of massage helps pets
relax and it gets their energy flowing freely, which speeds up and stimulates
the healing process.
Choose a quiet time and setting, and sit in a relaxed position on the floor
if you can. Have your pet lie down next to you and ask his permission to
give him a massage.
Ideally, if your pet is lying down in such a way that you can easily touch
all parts of his back and sides, it will be easier to do the first part of the
massage. If he’s lying on his side, however, you’ll need to do one side first
and then roll him over to be able to do the other side.
Begin by placing one hand on the pet’s head and the other hand on the base of the spine, right above
the tail, over the sacrum. The touch should be light with the palms of the hands down. If your pet is
very small, you can use just the tips of your fingers.
(If you use this exercise with very small animals, for example: birds, mice, hamsters, snakes, or
geckos, place your hands lightly above their bodies rather than touching them directly.)
Close your eyes and imagine a shimmering light of healing energy flowing into the animal’s head,
down through the spine, and all the way to the tip of the tail. See how this healing light energy
continuously flows gently from one end to the other. Hold that position for one or two minutes until
you feel a sense of balance and your pet begins to relax.
How will you recognize a sense of balance? When it’s present, the feeling in both of your hands
should be the same. If there’s not a sense of balance, one hand might feel cold while the other feels
warm. Or you might have a tingling sensation in one hand but not in the other. With your eyes closed
you may see a change of color or feel a different vibration. Everyone experiences a sense of balance
somewhat differently, but with a little practice, you’ll begin to recognize it immediately.
As soon as you feel this sense of balance, leave one hand in place on your pet’s head. Lift the other
hand that was down by the tail. With a positive healing intention, use that hand to stroke him slowly
from the head all the way down the spine to the tail’s end. This is not an ordinary form of petting. It’s
a stroke done slowly with a little more intensity and pressure, and it’s done with the intention to heal,
align, and balance your pet’s energy.
Allow your touch to be gentle, yet very determined. Remain focused and put into your touch the
intention that healing is taking place as you slowly stroke your pet.
After you’ve stroked from the top of the spine all the way to the tail, you’ll then use a similar
motion over all of the other areas of the body. Leave one hand on your pet’s head, and with the palm
of your other hand covering as much body area as possible, slide that hand slowly down one side of
your pet’s body, and then the other, so that you’re passing over all of the internal organs. The larger the
animal, the more passes you may need to make down each side so you cover all of the internal organs.
Again, the stroke should be done slowly, with a little more intensity and pressure, and with the
intention to heal, align, and balance your pet’s energy.
(During this part of the exercise, you should actually be sensitive to places where the energy may
now feel different from how it felt when you first began. It may be cold or hot, tingling or dull, soft or
hard. If you see colors, they may change, or you may be aware of sparks of color. If you hear tones,
you might hear a high pitch or a low hum. Be aware of any discrepancies. When you experience one,
let your hand hover over this location for a few moments until the energy is balanced again. Then
lightly brush the spot as if you’re clearing bread crumbs from a table.)
After stroking the spine and sides, if your pet was lying flat with his back upwards, encourage him
to roll over onto his side. Start from the shoulder moving down the front leg making sure you’re
feeling for differences and clearing away any energetic imperfections. Do the same with the hips and
back legs. Then roll your pet over and do the same for the front and back legs and hips on the other
side of the body.
 When you’re finished, let the animal rest, or get up and move around as he wishes, but refrain
from any further petting or stroking at this time. Your pet needs to absorb the benefits of the treatment
by letting any changes in his energy take place first.
Also encourage your pet to drink some water. This will help flush any toxins out of his system that
were released during the massage.

Massage techniques for cats

There are some cats who are never comfortable being touched by
humans. This is particularly true for feral cats, but it’s also true for some
domestic cats. Some of my cat clients love their humans very much, but five
minutes or less of petting is more than enough for them to handle. They
often end a petting session very abruptly by biting their humans’ hands,
almost as if to say, “I’ve had enough already!”
While massage may not be for every cat, it can be very therapeutic for
those who have emotional and behavioral problems. If your cat likes to jump
up onto your lap and stays for awhile, then possibly he’ll enjoy a massage.
Start slowly by spending a few minutes gently stroking him as you talk softly to him. See if he relaxes
and even begins to purr.
Once you know he’s comfortable, you can try a slightly deeper massage. Begin around the neck
and the ears using the cushiony tips of your fingers, being careful not to let long or sharp fingernails
intrude.
Massage the neck in a circular motion. Slowly, moving only a short distance at a time, let your
fingers move down both sides of the spine to the tail, and down the legs onto the paws. Be sure you’re
on the sides, and not directly on top of the spine. Do this a couple of times.
Also massage the sides of the body while visualizing the healing light and releasing any
unbalanced energy as explained in Exercise #2 above.
It’s very important, especially when massaging cats, to be aware of your touch. Is it too light or too
firm? Observe your cat’s face. If he’s looking around the room and not paying any attention to you,
then your touch is probably too soft. Although your cat may be enjoying it, it may not be as
therapeutic as necessary. If your cat starts to meow or even hisses, then your touch is probably too
firm. Ideally, your cat should maintain a look of concentration with eyes half closed in a way that
expresses a feeling of “aahhhhhh.”

Sports massage for performing dogs and horses

What most animal athletes have in common are injuries and soft tissue
pain. Soft tissues include muscles, ligaments, and tendons. Muscles move
joints, ligaments connect bone to bone, and tendons attach muscles to bones.
When animal athletes train and compete, these soft tissues can suffer
from the stress of exertion. The result may be sprains, muscle cramps,
bruising, strains, muscle soreness, and stress injuries. Sports massage can be
helpful for relieving these problems by keeping an animal free from pain so
he can continue to perform at an optimal level.
When we humans have soft tissue pain, our natural instinct is to rub the
sore or aching muscle because massage is the most natural means of
alleviating pain. However, since our animals aren’t able to give themselves a
massage, it’s up to us to help them whenever they’re experiencing this kind
of pain.
By using massage therapy on them to rub and compress soft tissue, we
can help to restore range of motion. Trigger points, or knots from tense
muscles, can also be gently released. The right kind of applied pressure and
stretching can restore normal muscle length, which will help to prevent
stiffness and protect the muscle from injury. An effective massage can also
speed up recovery from injuries and help with chronic conditions.
There are three main types of sports massage: maintenance, pre-event, and
post-event or cool down.
Maintenance performance massage
The main purpose of this type of massage is to reduce stress and promote
relaxation in order to help an animal athlete maintain a peak level of
performance. It targets specific parts of the body (especially muscles and
tendons), improves circulation, and relaxes the nervous system.
To help enhance endurance and prevent injuries from repetitive use,
maintenance massage should be done weekly, bi-weekly, or at least monthly.
This will help to keep the muscles flexible and also help to prolong an
animal athlete’s career.
Immediately following a massage, an animal should be encouraged to
walk for a few minutes, and to drink some water to help flush toxins out of
the system that have been released by the massage. After that, the animal
should be allowed to have a rest period.
It’s important to be aware that if an animal is going to participate in some
type of an event, a maintenance massage should be performed at least three
days before a scheduled competition in order to give the body time to adjust
to all of the changes that occur during and after the massage.
Pre-event massage
This type of massage should be done before any strenuous workout, or
on competition day itself. It takes less time than a maintenance massage but
it does help to speed up an animal’s warm-up time. It increases circulation
and fills the muscles with oxygenated blood. It also reduces excess muscle
and mental tension.
Because pre-event massage uses special techniques involving deep
compression and cross-fiber friction, it should be performed by, or learned
from, a knowledgeable massage therapist.
Post-event massage
Animals can strain muscles, just as people do. It can happen when
they’re working in a show ring, playing ball, catching a Frisbee, herding,
retrieving, or jumping. Dogs, particularly, may hide their symptoms until
they become extreme. They do this because their survival instincts tell them
it’s important not to appear weak in front of other pack members, or because
they simply want to please their owners. For this reason, it’s important to
check your pet for any telltale signs or symptoms after strenuous exercise or
competition.
Post-event massage can loosen muscles and joints and prevent stiffness
and soreness.
The purpose of this type of massage is to speed recovery from exertion,
reduce the risk of future injuries, and flush away the toxins that were
released during the strenuous activity of competition.
The technique involves long stroking movements that move the blood
through the veins back to the heart. As circulation to various areas of the
body is increased by the flow of blood through the arteries, the toxins from
the muscles are then flushed out. There should also be a noticeable decrease
in the animal’s heart and respiratory rates.
A horse who is enjoying a massage will lower his head and begin to lick and
chew. His “soft eyes” will be a sure sign he’s enjoying it! A dog will visibly
relax both physically and mentally, and may often fall asleep.
***
In daily life, many people hardly touch their pets beyond a pat on the
head, a rub on the face, or an occasional stroke of the body, but our animals
often need the benefit of much more prolonged human touch.
Massage is an important tool for maintaining their health and overall
wellbeing, and it can also enhance a pet’s performance. It’s not only a
special treat for our pets, but it can also be a special bonding experience for
both humans and pets. In addition, it’s also a wonderful complement to
veterinary care, as well as to all of the other therapies you may be using.
 As with some other modalities in this book, you’ll need to do your own
research about massage therapy techniques to find the ones that are most
effective for your pet, and then you’ll need to practice those techniques
regularly.
Start gently at first, then increase the pressure. Don’t feel frustrated if, in
the beginning, things don’t seem to go smoothly. In time, you’ll learn to
distinguish between what your pet likes and doesn’t like, and you can adjust
your technique accordingly. The benefits and rewards for both of you will
make learning the art of massage a very good investment of your time.
10: Sound
S
ound has a very fundamental relationship to the health and harmony of
the physical body. It’s like a bridge between the body, mind, and spirit. The
use of sound for healing has been practiced for thousands of years.
The knowledge of sounds, rhythms, music, and chants is evident in many
cultures throughout history.
Common forms of sound healing therapy include rhythm, harmony,
melody, singing, chanting, mantras, and prayer. Other forms include the use
of alpha sound waves and the use of tone or sound-generating instruments
such as crystal bowls, bells, chimes, gongs, and drums. And, of course, the
sounds of nature—wind, rain, waterfalls, ocean surf, and birdsong—are
known for their soothing and healing qualities.
Sound healing is very effective for animals because they even respond to
the vibration of sounds that we humans can’t hear at all.
Many conditions in animals respond well to the use of sound therapy
including behavioral problems, allergies, bone problems, cancer, depression,
epilepsy, hip dysplasia, hyperactivity, immune system problems, metabolic
problems, muscle trauma and disease, stress and anxiety, and pain and
injuries of many kinds, including arthritis. It’s also useful for treating
problems involving almost every organ of the body including the heart,
lungs, liver, kidneys, etc.
In this chapter we’re going to explore how and why sound can be such a
beneficial healing tool. Then in the next two chapters, we’ll explore a variety
of sound healing methods you might find helpful to use for your pets.

It’s all about energy, vibration, and resonance

To understand sound healing, it helps to know at least a little something

about the topics of energy, vibration, and resonance first. It’s actually not all
that complex, and I’ll make it as easy for you to understand as I possibly
can.
Energy and vibration
Even though everything we see “appears” to be solid, in reality, it’s not.
 Everything, and everyone, without any exception, is energy, and energy
is always vibrating.
We often use the word “frequency” when we’re talking about changes in
vibration, and we use the measurement of “Hertz” (Hz), or cycles per
second, to describe how fast or how slow a specific energy is vibrating.
The slower an energy vibrates, the more solid its form appears to be. That’s
why we’re able to see, touch, taste, feel, or hold onto objects in everyday
life.
Objects aren’t really solid at all, though, because energy isn’t solid.
However, because their energy is vibrating at such a very slow rate of speed,
the form that the energy of every object takes on appears to our physical
senses as if the object is something solid.
Physical bodies, as well as every single object we can perceive with our five
physical senses, are all forms of slow vibrating energy.
The faster the energy vibrates, the more ethereal the form of that energy
becomes, as it does with thoughts, feelings, emotions, and auras (or energy
bodies). We have to use our intuitive sense, instead of our five physical
senses, to perceive these faster forms of vibrational energy.
When it comes to the vibrations of sound, many wavelengths vibrate at a
slow enough rate that we can hear them, or even feel them.
Other wavelengths of sound actually vibrate at such a very low, or a very
high, rate that they can’t be heard at all. Infrasonic and ultrasonic sound
waves are good examples of this, and they’ll be explained in more detail in
Chapter 12.
However, even sound waves that can’t be heard can still have an effect on us
and on our pets and, in the case of sound healing therapy, that can be a very
positive and beneficial effect.
How changes in the frequency of vibrations can affect health
Now that you understand something about energy and vibration, it’s also
important to understand what happens when there’s a change in frequency.
As the vibration of a person or a pet moves, changes, and evolves, the
frequency of the vibration changes. When the frequency of any vibration
changes, this can have a significant effect on the health of a person or a pet.
In the chapter about “Auras” in Book One of this series, we talked in detail
about the four faster vibrating energy bodies—spiritual, mental emotional
and etheric—the bodies we can only perceive with our intuitive sense. We
also talked about how vibrational changes in one or more of those four
energy fields can affect the frequency of the slower vibrating physical body
of either a person or a pet.
If the imbalance in the affected energy body (or aura) isn’t corrected right
away, and the unbalanced frequency is allowed to continue for a period of
time, then the physical body will also stop vibrating at a healthy frequency.
It then begins to vibrate out of tune, or out of harmony, with what is normal
and natural. Whenever any signs or symptoms of disease or illness begin to
manifest in the physical body, it’s a clear indication that a frequency level in
one or more of the energy bodies (or auras) is out of balance.
The energy vibrations of either a person or a pet must then be restored to a
harmonious level of frequency to bring about a condition of good health
again, and sound is one of the modalities that can be used to restore that
balance and harmony.
Resonance
But how can sound help to restore the frequency of a person or an animal
to a normal and harmonious level? It can do this because of the principle of
resonance.
Resonance occurs whenever the frequency of one form of energy
vibrates in harmony with the frequency of another form of energy it
encounters.
There’s one experience of resonance with which we’re all familiar. It
happens whenever the vibration of one being encounters the vibration of
another being. If their frequencies are harmonious, we say that they resonate
with each other. If the frequencies of the two beings aren’t harmonious,
they’ll either feel neutral about each other or they’ll find themselves in
disagreement, sometimes very strongly so.
Resonance tells us that we’re in tune with a person, an animal, a place, a
sound, a color, or any other form of energy with which we come into
contact. Anyone who’s ever met someone with whom they just seemed to
“click” right away has experienced this kind of resonance.
On a more scientific level, if you have two tuning forks of the same pitch
and you strike one of them, the other one will also begin to produce a sound.
That’s because the second tuning fork is resonating with the first one. So,
based on the principle of resonance, by using the vibrations of sounds with
which a pet or a person resonates favorably, we should be able to bring about
vibrational healing.
What is vibrational or sound healing?

Sound healing is an effective method for correcting imbalances in one or

more of the energy bodies of a person or a pet. It uses the vibrations of sound
in any of its many and varied forms. Sound healing is very effective because
it has the power to integrate, balance, and heal.
Vibrational, or sound, healing is based on the idea that all illness or
disease ("dis-ease") in the physical body, begins with a blockage or a lack of
harmony in a person’s or an animal’s energy field on one or more levels—
spiritual, mental, emotional, or etheric. When we lovingly and consciously
attune our awareness to those places in either our own bodies or those of our
animals that have lost their healthy frequency, and we use the vibration of
sound to carry our loving healing intent, then we open the doorway for
healing in the spiritual, mental, emotional, and etheric bodies.
When we find the right resonance to eliminate a blockage or to restore
harmony in the energy bodies, healing can then take place in the physical
body.

The body/sound connection

The physical body of an animal or a person is also a form of energy that

can resonate with the energy of sound.
There’s even a direct link between different parts of the body and specific
sounds. Each organ of the body has its own frequency, and that frequency
resonates with specific sound vibrations that help it to function optimally.
Interestingly enough, these correspond to the same frequencies found in
music. And just as the same musical note, such as C, is found in different
places on a keyboard, each with a different frequency, so too, there are
different parts of the body that relate to the same musical note, each at a
different frequency. Higher frequencies seem to influence the head and upper
portions of the body, while the base of the spine and the lower half of the
body seem to respond to lower, deeper frequencies. In body organs and
systems, there are 12 main frequencies. Though these can’t be heard by the
human ear, they do resonate with certain musical tones, as follows:
Body Organ Tone Body Organ Tone
Lungs F Spleen G Liver G Stomach G Gall Bladder G Colon B
Pancreas F Base of the spine C
 When we select the frequency for a specific organ, and then project that
sound frequency onto it, a bodily organ that is out of balance should be able
to return to its normal state. The frequency has to be chosen very carefully,
however, because there will be a definite difference created by a lower or a
higher tone for the same note (for example: low C, middle C, high C).
Some musical notes have a frequency that our sub-conscious minds and
bodies recognize immediately, even if our conscious minds do not. So,
through the use of music, or a variety of instruments that generate sounds,
including the human speaking or singing voice, it’s possible to create an
external sound that can then be projected into the diseased area to
reintroduce the correct harmonic pattern. Because this is so, the experience
of powerful resonant sounds can be a very direct and effective healing means
to restore balance and harmony.
***
In the next two chapters, we’ll first explore some everyday techniques
using music and the spoken voice. We’ll also talk about the powerful
benefits of infrasonic therapy and how to use crystal singing bowls as a
sound healing modality.
11: Easy to Use Techniques For Healing with
Sound
T
here are many forms of sound therapy you can use for healing your pets
or yourselves. Some, like infrasonic therapy and crystal singing bowls (both
described in the next chapter), use soundless alpha waves or tones. Others
use a blend of music, rhythm, harmony, and song. Even the spoken word is a
vibration of sound that can be used for healing. And for those who meditate
regularly, you may find chanting or mantras to be very helpful.
In this chapter, we’ll talk about several easy-to-use sound modalities you
may find helpful to use for your pets, including those that use music and/or
the human voice.

Singing and instrumental music

Throughout history, in all times and places, people have turned to music
and singing to share their spirituality and to bring about healing. Many of my
clients sing to their pets frequently because it’s soothing, peaceful, and
loving. While we’re singing to them, we’re in fact sending them a specific
vibration that both heals and comforts them.
I have several dog, bird, and horse clients who often talk to me about
how their humans sing to them. They tell me it helps them to “unwind” and
feel more relaxed. It also helps them to feel more connected with their
humans in a special way.
Lots of animals love to listen to other forms of music also—especially
when you’re away. The right kind of music may even keep your pets from
chewing on the furniture.
Some animals prefer classical selections while others may prefer country
music. Some resonate more to instrumental music and others to vocal
selections. Rarely do animals enjoy rap, hard rock, or heavy metal music
where you can hear the throbbing bass reverberations resonating throughout
the house. It can truly offend their delicate sense of hearing.
Certain musical vibrations can also positively affect the operation of an
animal’s body. For example, the sounds of soothing music can slow a pet’s
heart rate to a more normal rhythm, or help prepare an animal for surgery or
travel, especially if a pet is overly stressed.
Since animals do enjoy instrumental music and singing, you might try
using both of these sound modalities to help them with their healing.
Whatever you use, it should be harmonious and pleasant to listen to.
If they’re restless or agitated you might try something like waltz
melodies. However, if they seem bored, listless, or depressed, you’ll want to
select something more lively. By observing their behavior when music is
playing, you’ll soon learn to identify their specific musical preferences.
If you’d like to read about the effects of various types of music on one of
my pet clients, you’ll enjoy the account of Sunshine, the little white
Pomeranian, who had a unique preference for country music! You’ll find her
story in Chapter 8 of my first book What Animals Tell Me.
Remember that pets have a very acute sense of hearing, so if you’re
going to leave music playing all day while you’re at work, it should be fairly
soft, and ideally, your pet should be able to move into another room where
it’s quiet if he or she tires of the constant sound of instruments and/or voices.
Another alternative might be to plug the music source into a timer that
can be set for more than one on/off cycle during the time you’re away to
give your pet some respite from having to constantly be surrounded by
musical sounds.

What we say out loud

When we’re talking to our pets, we also send them a specific sound
vibration. Pets may not understand all of our words, but from the tone and
inflection of our voices, they clearly pick up on the exact nature of the
energy we’re sending them.
For this reason, especially when they’re sick, it’s very important to focus
on saying positive and upbeat things to them. Once in awhile, for a very
brief moment, it’s ok to empathize with them about the fact that they aren’t
feeling well, but it’s very detrimental to continuously send them an
“I’mfeeling-so-sorry-for-you” kind of energy over and over and over again.
Instead, send them powerful, positive healing thoughts through your
spoken words. Let them hear repeatedly, through the tone of your voice, that
you love them and that their bodies are healing in a marvelous way.
 When our pets are dying, and there isn’t any hope of recovery, it’s still a
time to speak to them in a positive and upbeat manner. Occasionally, you’ll
need to hold them close when you’re crying in anticipation of their leaving,
and you’ll be expressing your sadness verbally, but allowing them to feel
only your sadness all of the time does absolutely nothing to help them enjoy
the precious moments of their final days with you.
Cry with them for a few moments if you need to once in awhile, but
spend all the rest of your time letting them enjoy the beauty and
peacefulness of your tone of voice. Say things in a happy, upbeat voice such
as:
• you’re so beautiful
• you’re so precious
• you’re such a love
• you’re such a beautiful spirit
If you put the emphasis on the last word in each of these expressions,
you’ll be sure to say each of them with an upward lilt in your voice.
Tell your pets, in gently spoken words, and always with an expression of
heartfelt happiness:
• how nice it is to see them resting comfortably, eating well, or enjoying any
of their daily activities
• how much you love the feel of the softness of their fur
• how much you love doing things to make them more comfortable
• how happy you are that the two of you have another beautiful day to spend
together
• how proud you are that they’re being so courageous and patient in spite of
their discomfort
• how much joy they’ve given you during the time you’ve been together
• how, if they’re close to making their transition, when the time is right, their
beautiful spirit will simply release the body that’s no longer serving them
and go happily on it’s way to a wonderful place of peace and fun
At first, you may have to act as if you feel heartfelt happiness when you say
those words, but soon you’ll find that you can actually feel the joy of that
spoken communication with your pet, at least for that very moment.
If you can’t think of anything to say that doesn’t bring you to the point of
tears, then simply comment pleasantly, or even happily, about something
more neutral, such as how beautiful the weather or garden is, what you’re
going to do next around the house, or who’s coming to visit.
The main thing is to let your love and serenity be expressed through the tone
and inflection of your voice so that it brings peace and comfort to your pet.

What’s in the sound of a name

There’s an area of daily living where the vibration of the sound of your
voice is also very important. This has to do with the name you call your pet.
If the name fits—and the vibration is right—a pet will feel it and react to his
or her name in a positive way. If the vibration isn’t right, you might be
surprised at the powerful effect the wrong name can have on your pet’s
behavior.
You should be sending your pet a soothing vibration whenever you’re saying
his or her name, but keep in mind that you’re also sending a mental picture
and emotional feelings associated with that name, each and every time you
voice it.
I’ve encountered situations where pet names were chosen to be funny or
clever, or to make an animal, especially a small one, seem more ferocious.
However, because the name had a mental image that went along with it, the
animal was receiving such a strong negative message or emotion from that
mental image that it subsequently developed highly undesirable behaviors.
I’ve met pets named Bandit, Bruiser, Butch, Dragon, and Xena, and in all
instances, their “pet parents” were surprised that their pets were displaying
tough or aggressive tendencies. Their humans didn’t intend to generate those
negative behaviors, but in the very act of saying a name such as “Butch,” for
example, they unconsciously projected a mental image of toughness and
aggression.
Xena also generates a “warrior-type” image that may be fine for some
breeds, but you first need to consider what traits you want to imprint on your
animal companion. My point is that you can’t call your pets by names such
as Bandit, Bruiser, Butch, Dragon, or Xena and then expect them to act like
an Angel or a Princess.
To illustrate this, one of my clients once sent me a note that clearly shows
her pet’s response to the name she’d chosen. She said in part:
“When I named Xena, I told her that she was my ‘warrior Pug.’ She was
like a child to me and I wanted to create in her what I felt I lacked: strength
and courage. I told her she was my best watchdog. Unfortunately, she was
never off duty and she drove all of us crazy. Everything I ever tried to
accomplish with her either backfired or failed altogether.”
My client only wanted her pet to be strong and courageous, but the name
she’d given her, along with the image the client was holding in her mind,
consciously or unconsciously, whenever she said that name, definitely had a
detrimental effect on her pet’s behavior.
In another case, not too long ago, I visited with a cat named Dragon who
was terrorizing his other three siblings. He’d hide and then jump out at them
for no apparent reason, always attacking them with his mouth instead of with
his paws as cats customarily do.
When I asked him about his behavior, he told me that whenever he heard
his name spoken, he also saw an image of a fire-breathing dragon whose
mouth was his most powerful weapon.
At the moment, I didn’t know exactly how he’d first acquired that image,
but since my purpose in being there was to help change this cat’s behavior
toward his siblings, I suggested the family change his name and give him a
different image to live up to.
They didn’t want to change his name completely, so they started calling
him Draggy, or Drag, for short, but what’s more important, they began
sending him an image of the character in the movie “Pete’s Dragon.” This
was a dragon who was a gentle giant and a wise creature with a heart of
gold.
When I called three months later to find out how Dragon was doing, his
family told me the change in his behavior was immediate. He hadn’t had
another fight with his siblings since I talked with him, and everyone in the
family had implemented my suggestions.
But where had this cat first acquired the image of a fire-breathing
dragon? Shortly after my visit, his human mom sent me an e-mail. She’d
talked with her now-grown son to whom the cat belonged originally. He told
her he was an avid fan of Dungeons and Dragons, and that he always had an
image in his mind of a ferocious fire-breathing dragon whenever he called
his cat’s name!
Based on the experiences of both Xena and Dragon, it’s very easy to
recognize the incredible power a pet’s name can have. And if the mental
images are aggressive whenever that name is spoken, a pet’s name,
combined with those images, actually has the power to create negative
behaviors. But just as we can create negative behaviors using the vibrational
sound of our voices and the energy of the mental images we’re sending, we
can also generate positive behaviors using the sound of our voices combined
with positive images. More important, we can even create healing activity in
the lives of our pets whenever we’re expressing positive, healing, and
uplifting thoughts.
***
As you can see from all of the examples in this chapter, music and the
human voice can be a particularly useful tool when it comes to helping your
pets. You can find even more information, including prepared tapes and
CD’s designed specifically for pets, by doing an Internet search on topics
such as:
• “healing pets with sound”
• “healing animals with sound”
• “healing body organs with sound”
• “sound healing”
• “sound therapy CDs for pets”
Each topic provides a different listing of resource materials, so be sure to
use a variety of wording if you’re going to do an Internet search on the topic
of sound healing. And yes, include the quotation marks so as to limit your
search to the specific terms you wish to locate.
***
In the next chapter, we’ll explore the use of Infrasonic Therapy and Crystal
Singing Bowls.
12: Using Infrasonic Therapy And Crystal Singing
Bowls
W
hile the sounds of music and the human voice can be very beneficial forms
of sound healing therapy, there are two powerful and interesting modalities
that can also be very effective.
One of them uses inaudible sound waves and is well supported by
science. It’s very easy to use at home, especially if your pet needs help on a
frequent or an on-going basis because of pain, inflammation, or various
types of illness. The other will be particularly appealing to anyone who
enjoys using soothing and beautiful audible tones.

Infrasonic therapy

Infrasonic (infrasound) therapy is very different from ultrasonic

(ultrasound) therapy with which most of us are familiar. Infrasonic wave
sounds are below the level of human hearing while ultrasonic wave sounds
are above the level of human hearing. Ultrasound therapy should be
administered by a trained professional and sometimes has associated risks,
while infrasonic therapy can safely be self-administered without any of those
same risks.
Since infrasonic therapy uses only low-level alpha sound waves, it’s very
safe and gentle to use for all types of pets. Domestic animals such as dogs,
cats, tortoises, rats, and birds have all benefited from receiving this form of
treatment. It’s frequently used for horses, especially race horses, and it’s also
successfully been used on some other very large animals such as cows,
elephants, pigs, and deer, as well as much smaller species including fish and
hummingbirds. It’s a form of therapy you might even want to consider using
for yourself.
Why is infrasonic therapy so safe?
Infrasonic therapy is a safe form of treatment for both pets and people for
two major reasons.
• When sound waves are emitted at a very low frequency, below 20 Hz,
they don’t irritate inflamed or already-irritated areas of the body the way
ultrasonic waves sometimes do.
• Sound waves generated at lower frequencies don’t heat up tissue, so they
don’t cause damage to underlying tissues the way ultrasonic waves
sometimes do. Since infrasonic therapy doesn’t heat up tissue, it’s even safe
to use when there are pins, staples, or metal plates in the body.
This means that infrasonic therapy is a safe modality to use in all phases
of an injury or illness: acute, subacute, or chronic. It can also be used alone,
or as part of a plan of therapy that uses other modalities such as acupuncture,
chiropractic, infrared laser therapy, or pulsed magnetic therapy.
How do infrasonic wave sounds differ from the sounds we usually hear?
Humans can usually hear sounds in the range of 20 Hz (low) to 20,000
Hz (high). Animals can detect sounds at an even higher range than humans
can. Typically, however, animals can’t hear some of the very low sounds that
even humans can hear, unless those sounds are produced at a very intense
level.
But when it comes to infrasonic sound waves, neither humans, nor the
majority of animals, can hear them because those sounds are in what’s
known as the alpha range. They vibrate at a very low rate of approximately
8-14 Hz. While these sound waves usually can’t be heard, they can still be
felt, and they can have very beneficial healing effects.
What conditions can infrasonic therapy be used for?
Infrasonic therapy is particularly useful for any condition that’s painful
or inflammatory. As the inaudible sound waves travel throughout the body,
they help to relax muscle spasms, increase circulation to injured tissue, and
reduce swelling, pain, and inflammation.
Clinical tests using medical thermography have clearly shown that
treatments with infrasonic therapy do reduce inflammation and heat in the
treated joints. It’s a form of fast, natural pain relief.
This form of therapy can also be used for injured or diseased internal
organs, as well as for helping to bring about relaxation, clarity, and an
increased ability to focus one’s attention. This can make it beneficial for a
pet who participates in competitions, or for one whose attention seems to be
scattered most of the time.
The gentle, inaudible signals of infrasonic therapy travel throughout the
body with a rippling effect. They can penetrate deeply into the structure of
cells and activate the natural healing response of those cells. They can also
help to move and disperse stagnant fluids from different parts of the body.
The following list identifies some of the problems for which infrasonic
therapy can be beneficial for both pets and people.
Some Conditions Benefiting From Infrasonic Therapy
Arthritis Ligament problems Asthma Limited range of motion problems
Back pain Neurological disorders
Bone fractures and breaks Nosebleeds
Bruises Muscle spasms Carpal tunnel discomfort Muscle inflammation
Circulatory deficiencies Muscles, sore
Colitis Pre-surgical preparation Diarrhea Post-surgical recovery
Fibromyalgia Scar Tissue
Headaches Soft tissue injuries, tears, and strains Inflammation Sore feet
Intervertebral disk disease Swelling
Joint problems Tendonitis
Lack of energy TMJ
Laminitis in horses Wounds
Why is infrasonic therapy so beneficial?
Alpha waves, which are delivered through infrasonic therapy at a
frequency of 8-14 Hz, are considered to be the optimum frequencies to
maintain a state of good health. The frequencies of normal, healthy cells
already function in the alpha range from 8-14 Hz according to scientific
research.
Most of the time, the body itself acts like a natural alpha wave generator
doing its own self-healing. But when our pets are more seriously affected by
illness, injury, stress, trauma, or chronic conditions, the cells in their bodies
begin to degenerate. When this happens, those cells start to produce
frequencies that aren’t in the healthy alpha range. That’s when our pets need
help from another source.
At times like this, if we can infuse our pets’ bodies with alpha waves
from an external source, we can effectively help bring about healing or relief
more quickly. That’s because gentle, low frequency alpha waves create
harmonic vibrations. These vibrations re-energize the cells of the body to
promote healing and tissue recovery. Using this kind of therapy, the cells of
the body can then more easily return to their natural state of balance and
harmony.
How can you provide the benefits of alpha sound waves for your pet?
Since the body, and particularly the hands, can be alpha wave generators,
you may be able to find an energy practitioner who knows how to administer
energetic treatments that allow alpha waves to flow into the body. Or you
may want to use the techniques of either Cosmic Healing or Reiki which
were described in Book 1 of this series, For Pet’s Sake, Do Something!
How to Communicate with Your Pets and Help Them Heal.
However, there’s another method to consider, especially if your pet has a
chronic condition like arthritis that needs to be treated frequently. This
method uses a piece of equipment that generates healing alpha sound waves.
Chiropractors, physical therapists, acupuncturists, some veterinarians, and
many people who work extensively with horses already use it. It’s also
available to purchase for home use.
Although this type of unit is fairly costly, people who have used it for
their pets (and for themselves) report some very welcome, beneficial, and
gratifying results. Some outcomes even seem to be almost miraculous.
Testimonials recount how pets who had become lame from an injury
have recovered their ability to walk again; injured horses have been able to
run a race not long after a treatment; lung swelling and inflammation
following serious injury has been relieved; and even surgeries and
amputations have been avoided.
The unit is portable, safe, and very easy to use. It doesn’t require any
gels or special preparation. A treatment usually requires about 20 minutes.
The number of treatments necessary for helping a specific problem will
depend on how severe or chronic an injury or an illness is.
Beneficial effects can be experienced even when the unit isn’t in direct
contact with the body. This means that you can simply turn the unit on in the
same room where your pet is, and he or she will still be able to feel the
calming effects.
For use on the body itself, the low frequency alpha waves can penetrate
through fur, bandages, ice or gel packs, and even plaster casts.
While this type of equipment isn’t intended to be used as a massage device,
animals sometimes enjoy the pulsating massage action produced by the
hand-held unit when it’s placed over sore or injured areas.
The primary website (www.alphasonic.com) says, “The benefits are like
getting a combination of acupuncture without needles, deeper penetration
than ultrasound without risks, and deep tissue massage without the resulting
discomfort.”
The three key websites that provide a variety of information and testimonials
about the use and benefits of this type of unit for both people and animals
are: www.alphasonic.com, www.alphatouch.net, and
www.alphasoundwave.com.

Crystal singing bowls

For many years, I had the opportunity to meditate using the healing
benefits of seven crystal bowls. These special bowls are made out of quartz.
Some use pure crushed or powdered quartz crystals while others are made
from silica (sand).
Each comes in a different size and emits a specific pitch when played.
Sizes vary from six inches to 24 inches in diameter, and each bowl has its
own note. The sound will depend on many variables including what material
is used, the size of the bowl, and how it was manufactured.
The important thing is, among the wave patterns generated by the
different singing bowls, there’s a measurable wave pattern that’s equivalent
to the alpha waves produced by the brain. The tones from these bowls instill
a deep sense of relaxation, and as the body becomes more relaxed, healing
can more easily take place.
As so eloquently expressed on the website www.discoverthesound.com,
“Everyone can benefit from using crystal healing singing bowls. Most of
us have only a small amount of pure, clear, healing sound in our lives. Our
ears no longer get a daily exposure to running streams, bird songs, and the
rustling leaves in the forest. We are too often inside, with this beautiful
natural music replaced by the hum of computers, the whoosh of the air
conditioner, and the high-pitched whine of fluorescent lights. This is the
opposite of healing sound! We grow accustomed to tuning out these noises,
along with construction, traffic, crowds, and commercials, so that they don't
intrude into our space. Since we don't have "earlids" to close, we shut the
sound out with our minds, which can get to be an unhealthy habit that
extends to tuning out beneficial sound, too.
“The pure sonic waves that ring from the singing quartz crystal bowls
wake up our ability to listen and HEAR. Hearing occurs with more than our
ears. Sound is vibration, and that vibration moves throughout our body. With
the singing quartz crystal or Tibetan bowls, we FEEL the sound as much as
we take it in with our ears. . . The singing quartz crystal provides that ‘music
of the spheres’ that all of us need.”
 There are, generally speaking, two kinds of singing crystal bowls; one is
opaque, and one is clear. It’s said that the clear ones emit a purer, clearer,
more bell-like tone.
The sound is generated by gently rubbing a wooden mallet, or a wand
covered by fine suede, around the edge of the bowl. The bowl will then start
to “sing” in a specific tone resembling the “aum” sound we’re so
accustomed to hearing in meditation.
I’ve personally worked with only seven of the crystal bowls representing
one for each of our emotional centers or chakras, but there are actually many
more. Following is a list of the specific notes played by seven of the bowls,
the sequence in which they’re used, and the purpose of each one.
Bowl and Note Color It means to: It’s related The sound helps Chakra to: one be: One C Red
Have Physical needs Grounded Two D Orange FeelEmotions, Creative sexuality
Three E Yellow Act Power, vitality Intuitive Four F Green Love Love
Loved/loving Five G Blue Speak Communication Expressive Six A Indigo
See Intuition Insightful
Seven B Violet Know Understanding The real you
Because crystal bowls are quite expensive, it’s not practical for most
people to purchase a set of their own. However, if this healing modality
appeals to you, look for classes, seminars, or groups that meet on a regular
basis to meditate and play the bowls. If your pet is well behaved, he or she
may be allowed to be present. Or you might offer to let the group meet in
your own home so that your pet can benefit from this healing form of sound
therapy, too.
Another option might be to purchase only a single bowl. You would then
create the healing sound by gently rubbing the wand around and around the
bowl for 10-15 minutes while you meditate and also send healing energy to
your pet, picturing him or her in a state of perfect health.
It’s often easier, however, to be lying down next to your pet and touching
him during a healing treatment. If you prefer to do it this way, then you
might want to ask a friend or family member to be the one who rubs the
wand around the bowl so that your hands can remain in contact with your pet
during your meditation.
The sound from the bowl will put your pet at ease in a matter of seconds.
As you’re holding the appropriate healing intention, the pure tones that
emanate from crystal bowls can be a powerful force for bringing conscious
awareness and vibrational rebalancing to areas of your pet’s body that are
"out of tune."
If you’re unable to buy a crystal bowl of your own, another alternative
that might work for some sensitive animals is to purchase a CD with the
sounds of the crystal bowls. You can find CD’s of this type on the Internet,
and you could play them at home while you and your pet are in a relaxed
state together.
***
Whatever method you choose, take the time to relax and enjoy the
healing benefits of sound therapy with each other. You may even find that
you, too, will benefit from the same treatment your pet is receiving,
especially if you’re under stress, or if you already have a condition for which
your pet seems to have taken on the same symptoms.
Healing can begin for both of you because the vibration of sound is an
effective way to create the balance and harmony that are so essential to the
well-being of either a pet or a person.
And whenever we’re able to balance and harmonize the spiritual, mental,
emotional and etheric energy bodies of our pets and ourselves, we can then
hope to see improvements in the physical bodies and behaviors of our pets,
as well as discover improvements in ourselves, along with a renewed zest for
life.
13: Color and Light

A
t first glance, color therapy may seem to be a very unique approach to
use for animals, but, like sound therapy, it’s actually another form of
resonance. Color therapy has been shown to encourage healing and a sense
of well-being in dogs, horses, cats, and birds. It’s also been used with mice
to control the sex of their offspring, with chinchillas to make their coats
thicker, and with mink to calm them down and increase breeding.
Color energy is nourishing, and just as we humans require a certain
amount of light and exposure to specific colors each day to optimize our
health, so do our animals need the healing benefits of light and color.
Anyone who’s familiar with cat behavior knows how much they enjoy
basking in a sunny spot, but they don’t do this only for pure enjoyment.
They’re actually reaping health benefits at the same time. The same is true
for dogs who like to spend time outside in the sunlight each day, even in
very hot weather.
By now, though, you’re no doubt wondering: Do animals actually “see”
colors, and do they need to be able to do so in order to receive their healing
benefits?
It’s hard to find agreement about how, and to what degree, animals can
distinguish colors, but generally speaking, at least when it comes to dogs,
they’re not color-blind, as some people believe.
While they don’t perceive color as richly as humans do, they can tell the
difference between certain colors, and even the difference between certain
shades of color. They may not easily detect the differences between certain
shades of red, yellow, or green, but they can detect the differences between
closely related shades of blue, gray, and violet, and sometimes they can do
this even better than many people can.
But perceiving actual color isn’t the key to being affected by colors for
either pets or for people. Studies have shown that, for blind humans,
perception of color itself is not necessary for beneficial effects to be
produced. Color is simply visible light. The light that makes up a color is
emitted or reflected at a specific vibrational wavelength. It’s this unique
vibrational energy of light that produces the healing effect, so a person or a
pet can experience the beneficial vibrational effects of the colors around
them, even if they don’t clearly perceive the actual colors themselves.

Light and color as energy for healing

In the previous chapter about healing with sound, we talked about the
importance of resonance and energy. Those principles also apply to using
color for healing purposes.
Because every form of energy resonates with every other form of energy
it encounters, it means that a pet’s energy can resonate with color energy,
and this resonance can provide important healing benefits.
Colors can affect our pets in multiple ways. They can influence moods
and emotions, have an impact on a pet’s sense of well-being or uneasiness,
affect their perception of the space around them, and influence the level and
flow of energy in their bodies. In some species, color even sends messages
about biological attraction and sexual availability.
But whenever we’re dealing with a pet’s health challenges, it all comes
down to helping remove the cause of those imbalances. We see health
problems expressed visibly in the physical body, but that’s not where they
start. Instead, their cause begins in a pet’s energy fields, or auras, so we need
to rebalance those energy fields to bring about healing in the physical body.
And how better to do that than by using a form of positive energy— in this
case, light and color.

The history of healing with color

Using light and color for healing has a long history. It seems to have had
roots in Indian Ayurvedic practices, but it was also used in Chinese and
Egyptian cultures. The ancient Egyptians built light-filled rooms containing
panes of colored glass where patients could go to receive the healing benefits
of what we now call color therapy. In a later period of history, when
smallpox was rampant in Europe, patients and their rooms were sometimes
draped with red cloth in order to draw the disease away from the body.
By the late 19th century, several English physicians found that exposure
to the light of different colors caused changes in their patients that could
actually be measured. European researchers have also explored the many
ways in which exposure to color has an influence on health. In essence,
researchers have found that color stimulates detoxification of the body, it
improves normal health and equilibrium, and it’s safe for everyone to use.
As a result of studies about the effects of color, many hospitals now use
soothing and uplifting shades of color to help speed the recovery of their
human patients, and a few holistic veterinarians have even begun to use
color therapy as an important part of their practices. That’s because the
vibrational energy of color resonates with the animal’s molecular system and
provides a boost to the immune system.

How light and color therapy can be applied

Therapeutic light and color can be administered to pets in a number of

ways, both professionally and at home. It’s often combined with
aromatherapy, energy therapy, or hydrotherapy to heighten its therapeutic
effect.
Some of the everyday easy-to-use tools for administering color therapy
include colored fabrics, colored filters, solarized water, prisms, crystals,
gemstones, candles, wands, panes of colored glass, and colored bottles,
glasses, or lenses.
People who do energy healing often visualize sending specific color
wavelengths to their clients at the same time they’re doing their regular form
of energy or hands-on work. And those therapists who are specifically
trained in the use of color therapy use color in a variety of forms to balance
physical, emotional, mental, and spiritual energy in the body, wherever there
may be a need.
There’s also a form of light and color healing energy that’s known by
several different names. It may be called photonic therapy, photon
stimulation therapy, or Low Energy Photon Therapy (LEPT). A photon is
like a little packet of energy from a single wavelength of light. It can be
administered as a visible, or an invisible, spectrum of light.
The vibration of this light energy enters the body where it’s then
absorbed by photoreceptors in the cells of blood, bone, muscles, and skin.
When body cells are stimulated by this kind of energy, pain can be reduced
and healing time can be shortened.
The visible spectrum of light, including violets and reds, only penetrates
tissues to a depth of 8-10mm (millimeters). This makes it useful for treating
wounds, cuts, and other areas of the body closest to the skin. In addition, a
probe containing only one diode is often used to treat individual acupuncture
points. Since the light-emitting probe doesn’t produce any sensation, it can
work well as an alternative form of acupuncture treatment for those pets who
don’t respond well to the use of needles. Ruptured intervertebral disks are
also often very effectively treated with LEPT.
The other type of light, infrared light, is in the invisible spectrum of
light above red. Infrared light is produced by LEDs (light emitting diodes). It
can penetrate tissues to a depth of 30-40mm, which makes it more effective
for the temporary treatment of deep muscle tissue, bones, and joints.
It’s useful for arthritis, muscle spasms, minor muscle and joint pain, and
stiffness because it temporarily increases blood circulation in the area being
treated. Infrared light also helps to stimulate the production of white blood
cells, to improve protein synthesis in cells of the body, and to remove
harmful toxins from the body.
Cells treated with LED light have been found to grow more than twice as
fast as cells that were not treated with LED light. That’s because the proper
wavelength of light speeds up healing by increasing the energy inside the
cells.
(Infrared light is not for use in cases of any cancerous malignancy or
abdominal pain, or when the patient is pregnant. It should never be pointed
at the eyes, and it shouldn’t be used on wet areas of the body because they
could be severely burned by the heat that would be generated.)
A third type of therapeutic light therapy uses low power laser light that’s
usually either visible (red) or invisible (infrared). This form of light therapy
is effective for relieving inflammation and pain, accelerating blood
circulation, fighting infection, promoting tissue repair, and improving
immunity and metabolic function. It’s also beneficial for treating meridian
points associated with acupuncture and acupressure because it doesn’t harm
skin tissue. (It, too, should not be used to treat undiagnosed pain, cancers,
tumors, or in cases of pregnancy, and it should never be pointed directly at
the eyes.)
You’re also no doubt familiar with ultraviolet light. While infrared light
is in the invisible spectrum above red, ultraviolet light is in the invisible
spectrum below violet.
Ultraviolet heat lamps have long been used by doctors and physical
therapists, but they need to be used very carefully and with the necessary
precautions. Infrared light warms, but ultraviolet light can burn. Anyone
who’s stayed out in the sun too long knows this fact very well if they’ve ever
experienced a painful sunburn or developed skin cancer caused by the
ultraviolet rays of the sun.
There’s a difference, though, between being exposed to the random
ultraviolet rays of the sun, which may be either helpful or harmful, and being
treated with ultraviolet light therapy. In UV light therapy, the most
therapeutic UV wavelengths are harnessed and administered in as controlled
and safe a way as possible, although there are still some associated risks.
However, ultraviolet light is probably not the first choice as a form of
therapy today because there are safer light treatment technologies currently
available. For that reason, it should only be used if a veterinarian
recommends it.

Using light and color therapy for pets

You may not be ready to use the expertise of a professional color

therapist, or even to use one of the therapy forms listed above that requires
professional knowledge and expertise, but there are still many ways you can
use light and color therapy for your pets at home.
The best way to help them is to assure that they spend adequate but not
excessive time in natural sunlight during the day. Dogs need to be able to
go outdoors, while indoor cats usually gravitate toward sunny windows.
Cats, especially, often tell me how much they like to sunbathe, so much so,
that they get upset with their humans when the drapes remain closed during
the day, allowing them no access to sunlight while their humans are away at
work.
Once you’ve met your pet’s need for sunlight, which provides the full
spectrum of colors, there are a number of other things you can do to bring
the energy of the appropriate colors into your pet’s life.
Begin by determining which color, or colors, you think will be most
beneficial and see how your pet responds to them. The lists at the end of this
chapter will provide you with some guidelines for choosing the right colors.
When you know which colors your pet seems to resonate with, you can
use them for collars, leashes, and bedding, or you might purchase a special
blanket or sofa throw. You could even have your pet wear a bandana or some
special clothing in the appropriate colors. Whatever you do, have fun and be
creative!
How will you know what your pet’s choice is? Put several items down at
the same time for your pet to lie on, each in a different color you think might
be right. Place them relatively close together, but with some space in
between each one, and see which color your pet chooses to lie on most often.
Pets may not perceive the specific color, but they will respond to the energy
of the color’s vibration, and they’ll tend to choose the one that’s right for
them.
Another way to bring color therapy into your pet’s daily life is to provide
color-treated or solarized water. Simply place purified water in an
appropriately colored gallon-size glass (never plastic) bottle and allow it to
absorb sunlight for a couple of hours. The water won’t change color, but the
rays of the sun will energize the water with the energy of the color of the
bottle.
If you don’t have an appropriately colored bottle, you can use a clear
glass bottle and wrap it with colored cellophane, which you can purchase at
any party store. Again, the water doesn’t change color, but it does absorb the
energy of the color of the cellophane that’s wrapped around the bottle.
Once the water has absorbed the energy of the color, let your pet drink it
as a healing tonic. For birds, and for other pets, too, you can also put this
water into a spray bottle and spray them with a fine mist.
Another technique that provides the healing benefit of color energy
involves shining certain colors of light on specific parts of the body that
need healing. You can do this by using a flashlight, or some other type of
light, covered by a colored filter, such as a theater gel filter typically used in
front of floodlights or spotlights.
You can also find color pinspot lamps and lenses, precision penlights,
and even various levels of professional color delivery systems available on
the Internet.
Remember, if you’re using any ordinary type of home light source, other
than a flashlight, never leave your pet unattended during a treatment,
especially if the light source you’re using produces any amount of heat that
might cause discomfort or even a burn.
As you can now see, there are a multitude of ways to provide your pet
with color or light therapy ranging from the simple to the technologically
sophisticated, so if this form of therapy appeals to you, you should be able to
find one or more modalities that will be appropriate for your pet.

Colors for healing

Color therapy isn’t designed to replace traditional medicine, but it is a

way for you to participate more personally and directly in your pet’s healing
process. Find what works for your pet, and remember to experiment with
different colors and with different intensities of the colors you choose.
In general, blues are cooling and cleansing and affect a pet’s spiritual
energy, reds help to uplift and balance physical energy, and yellows, which
affect mental energy, serve as a bridge between the physical and the
spiritual. The following lists can be used as guidelines.
Red
Stimulates the sensory nervous system, liver, and blood; energizes the five
senses; used for leukemia cases, viruses, and heavy bacterial infections such
as hepatitis; stimulates the immune system to fight off any foreign invasion;
useful for energy, fatigue, and colds because it stimulates and increases
warmth; energizes heart and blood circulation and builds up the blood; can
help raise a low blood pressure; causes hemoglobin to multiply, thus
increasing energy and raising body temperature; is excellent for anemia and
other blood related conditions; particularly helpful for releasing stiffness and
constrictions as well as loosening and opening up clogs; stimulates the root
chakra at the base of the spine causing the adrenal glands to release
adrenalin resulting in greater strength; is good for stimulating passive
personalities but should be avoided for those who are over-active, impulsive,
or aggressive. Never treat cancer with red because this color will stimulate
cell growth!
Orange
Stimulates the lungs, respiratory system, stomach, skeletal system, bones,
mammary glands, and thyroid; used for intestinal problems, relieving cramps
and muscle spasms, and as a decongestant; increases the amount of mother’s
milk; is warm and cheering and has a freeing action on both body and mind;
opens one up to seeing things differently and accepting new ideas; beneficial
for a pet moving into a new home or for one who is learning many new
behaviors. As a blend of red and yellow, orange helps to heal the physical
body (red) and, at the same time, bring greater understanding to the mind
(yellow).
Yellow
Stimulates the lymph system, intestines, pancreas, digestive fluids, and
bowel movements; can be used for conditions of the stomach, liver, and
intestines; speeds up digestion and assimilation; is a nerve builder for the
sensory and motor systems; energizes the muscles; is a depressant for the
spleen; helps lift melancholy; is used to expel worms and parasites; aids in
the healing of scarred tissue; helps strengthen the nerves and the mind; helps
awaken mental inspiration and stimulates higher thinking; stimulates the
solar plexus, or psychic center; can be used for psychological burnout or
other psychologicallyrelated conditions or ailments; is an excellent color for
nervous or nerve-related conditions or ailments. Dark yellow soothes pains
in the nerves (shooting pains).
Lemon
Dissolves blood clots and improves the body’s ability to assimilate nutrients;
promotes coughing to expel mucus and fluids from the respiratory system;
stimulates the brain, thymus, digestion, and bone growth; treats chronic
disorders and helps the body gradually repair itself by improving internal
nutrition.
Green
The universal color of healing; can be used for just about any condition
in need of healing; brings the body into balance; activates the pituitary
gland; stimulates the rebuilding of muscle and tissue; is a general antiseptic,
germicide, and disinfectant; helps destroy pathogens and prevents decay;
harmonizes the digestion, stomach, liver, and gallbladder; has a healing
effect on kidneys; increases immunity; builds up muscles, bones, and tissues;
strengthens the nervous system; relieves hormonal imbalances; stimulates
the heart chakra; positively affects blood pressure; is energizing but also has
a soothing influence on both mind and body; brings about psychological and
emotional harmony and balance; stimulates inner peace. Green contains both
a physical nature and a spiritual nature in equal balance and in equal
harmony.
Turquoise
Improves nutrient assimilation and the repair of acute disorders; slows
excess activity of the brain; rebuilds burned skin; acts as a skin tonic,
disinfectant, and antiseptic; has a cooling influence; tones the system in
general; relieves sensations of stress; increases intuition and sensitivity.
Blue
Cools, relieves itching and irritation, encourages perspiration; is like a mild
sedative; reduces or removes fever and inflammation; useful for arthritis and
rheumatic inflammations; useful for throat inflammation as solarized blue
water; stimulates the pineal gland; helps heal burns; lowers high blood
pressure; relieves headaches; relieves bleeding; calms strong emotions such
as anger, aggression, and out-of-control fear; brings about tranquility;
promotes loyalty and reliability.
Indigo
Stimulates the parathyroid; calms or slows respirations, thyroid activity, and
mammary milk production; controls abscesses; reduces secretions and
discharges; stops bleeding; helps to destroy microorganisms; purifies the
blood; acts as a freeing and purifying agent; useful for eye and ear
conditions; beneficial for mental conditions; eases suffering, lessens
excitement, and has a sedative effect. Indigo contains both a physical nature
and a spiritual nature in equal balance and in equal harmony.
Violet/Purple
Used mainly as a color of transformation for spiritually-related problems
but may also have many physical benefits; slows down an over-active heart;
increases the functional activity of the veins; lowers blood pressure; dilates
blood vessels; decreases muscular activity; decreases activity in the kidneys
and adrenal glands; calms the central nervous system; decreases pain
sensitivity; spleen stimulant; promotes the production of white blood cells;
lowers body temperature; controls fevers; calms hyperventilation from an
anxiety attack; calms the emotions; induces deep relaxation; helpful for
sleeping; uplifts the spirits.
Magenta
Balances emotions; strengthens and balances the heart, circulatory system,
kidneys, adrenals, and reproductive organs; helps to connect with one’s life
purpose.
Pink
Heals grief and sadness; restores contact with feelings.
Scarlet
General stimulant; increases functional activity of the arteries, kidneys,
adrenal glands, reproductive organs, and circulatory system; is an emotional
stimulant.
White
When all colors join, the result is white light. White is therefore the
perfect color because it is all colors in perfect balance and harmony. White
light raises the vibration of one’s consciousness and the vibrations of the
body bringing about harmony in all aspects of life. Directing white into an
affected part of the body is one of the fastest ways to bring about healing.

Some health challenges and their associated healing colors

Condition Beneficial Color

Abdominal cramps Yellow, lemon
Abscesses Aches, head Blue, blue-violet Blue, green
Aches, muscles Pastel orange Allergies
Anemia
Anxieties Indigo, soft orange Red
Light blue, green
Appetite, excessive Indigo Appetite, loss Arthritis Asthma
Bladder Bleeding Bones
Bowels
Bronchitis Cancer
Diabetes Epilepsy Eyes
Heart Problems Green, pink
Hemorrhoids Deep blue
Indigestion Yellow, lemon Inflammation Blue
Liver Blueandyellowcombinations Yellow, lemon
Violet, blue-violet, red-violet Blue,orange
Yellow-orange
Blue-green
Violet,lemon
Yellow-orange
Blue, blue-green, turquoise Blue, blue-violet, pink Violet
Turquoise, deep blues Indigo,royalblue
Nausea Iceblue
Pneumonia Red and red-orange, combined with
 indigo
Skin Problems Lemon, blue-violet
Ulcers Green

Chakras and color

Every living being is made up of a network of energy centers called

chakras. Chakras are considered to be part of the etheric aura, and their
purpose is to help distribute Ch’i energy between the etheric body and the
physical body. They also influence emotions, the nervous and endocrine
systems, and specific organs of the body.
Each chakra vibrates at a specific rate of speed and is associated with a
specific color. The major chakras of the body correspond to the colors of the
rainbow, as you can see in the human diagram below.

7th - Crown Chakra - Violet

6th - Third Eye Chakra - Indigo
5th - Throat Chakra - Blue
4th - Heart Chakra - Green
3rd - Solar Plexus Chakra - Yellow
2nd - Navel or Sexual Chakra - Orange
1st - Root Chakra - Red
Each animal chakra also corresponds to a position on the physical body.
However, unlike the chakras in people, animal chakras are not placed in a
straight line down the body's center, as you will see in the following
illustration.

Whenever a chakra has become unbalanced, it needs to resonate with

some other form of positive vibrational energy that will help bring it back
into a state of balance.
Using color therapy, an out-of-balance energy center can be rebalanced
by shining the appropriate colored light onto the body in the location of the
affected chakra. A chakra can even be rebalanced during meditation without
using any external source of colored light. This is done by clearly visualizing
that particular energy center and mentally sending the correct color of
healing light energy to it.
The following table may help you identify which chakra needs the most
work and what associated color to use.
Color Chakra Red 1st— Root
Orange 2nd— Navel Area Yellow 3rd— Solar Plexus Green 4th— Heart Area Blue 5th—
Throat Area
Associated with
Reproductive organs, urinary tract, rectal area, red blood cells
Kidneys, spleen, colon
Digestive system, liver, stomach, lymph system Heart, lungs, thymus
Thyroid, larynx, jaw, tonsils, mouth, speech
Indigo 6th— Third Eye Area Eyes, brow, headaches, hormonal imbalance,
developmental disorders
Headaches, depression, mental deficiencies, Violet 7th— Crown imbalances, nerves, cancer
***
When the body is out of balance, physically or emotionally, and there’s
evidence of “dis-ease” or discomfort, it’s a clear sign that the spirit or energy
of an animal has also become imbalanced.
For complete healing to take place, it’s not enough to treat just the
physical symptoms. We also have to treat the cause—and treat it at the level
where it started—in the energy fields, or auras, and in the chakras. As you
can now see, light and color therapy can be an effective way to correct these
types of energetic imbalances, and even be easy to use.
In addition to the physical and emotional problems that may cause
imbalances in our pets, it’s also important to remember they’re continually
using their positive energy to support, or even help clear, the personal energy
fields, or auras, of the people around them.
After giving so generously of themselves in order to help us keep our
energy fields balanced, there may even be times when they need to have
their own energy fields replenished. Color therapy can be a very effective
way to help them achieve this renewal because the energy channels of a pet’s
body can absorb the energy of colors through the various vibrations that
colors give off.
Truly understanding the knowledge of color, including all of its
subtleties and how it can be used for healing, is actually a life-long pursuit.
Yet even for the beginner, it’s clear there are many easy and effective ways
you can “Do something” for your pets when it comes to using light and
color to help them heal.
***
 If you’d like considerably more detailed information about pet auras and
chakras, you’ll find it in Chapters 7 and 8 in the first book of this series For
Pet’s Sake, Do Something! How to Communicate with Your Pets and Help
Them Heal.
14: Crystals
I
n the first chapter, “Flower Essences,” we talked about a variety of
things we can’t see, touch, or feel, such as energy fields, energy
wavelengths, frequency, negative states, and energy vibrations. We also
talked about three important principles: the Unity of All Creation; the
importance of keeping the personality in harmony with its eternal Soul; and
how the flower essences help to create harmony and balance in the life of a
pet or a person. Just as the energetic properties of flowers, foods, herbs,
plants, and essential oils can connect with the energetic fields of people and
animals to benefit them in healing ways, so can the energy of crystals have a
beneficial effect on the health of those who use them. This compatible
energetic activity is another beautiful expression of the Unity of All
Creation.
But what exactly are crystals?
They’re neutral, yet intricate, solid substances. Crystals are formed when
water combines with another earth element under very exact conditions of
pressure, temperature, and energy. For example, given the right conditions,
sand and water will form quartz. But more than just being a solid substance,
crystals also have energetic properties.
Though we seldom consciously think about it in daily life, quartz crystals
have been very valuable to each of us. Without them, we wouldn’t have
things like radios, watches, and computers.
It’s because quartz crystals have the ability to vibrate at very precise
rates that they’re invaluable for transmitting information within computers,
and storing data in memory. These are some of the very practical ways in
which they prove their activity every day.
But the energetic properties of crystals aren’t useful only in
technological applications. They’re also beneficial tools for both pets and
people who need help with different levels of healing.
People who use crystals for this purpose are sometimes considered to be
“far out,” but one recent magazine article provided a reminder that, because
crystals have been used since antiquity for their healing powers, their use
shouldn’t be dismissed out of hand.
 And, when it comes to animals, a report from a 1996 Journal of the
American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association detailed the use of a
crystal-based ointment that was used to facilitate healing and ease pain for
three injured animals. In each case, the rate of healing and recovery was
greater than might have been expected if only standard treatments had been
used.
How and why do crystals work so effectively?
The ancients believed crystals were able to store and amplify any power
source fed into them, whether that source was physical, mental, emotional,
or spiritual.
Technology now seems to have confirmed something about that belief by
demonstrating how crystals amplify, transform, store, focus, and transfer
energy for use in our everyday lives. They even act much like a laser
because they radiate energy in a coherent and highly concentrated form.
It’s obvious how crystals benefit us through technology, but how is it that
crystals can have a beneficial effect on the health of people and animals?
If we look at the inner structure of a crystal, what we see is a state of
perfection and balance. And if every object in the universe carries a unique
vibration, then those that can keep their perfect balance may help to restore
harmony when an imbalance has crept into another object.
We might say that a crystal helps to create order because its balanced
energy field helps reorganize the energy field of a body that has become
imbalanced. This can happen because both the body and the crystal are, by
nature, electromagnetic energy. This means that a human or animal body can
respond to the balanced energies of a crystal, just as it can respond to the
balanced energetic properties of foods, herbs, plants, flowers, sound, color,
and essential oils.
For those readers who want some scientific validation about things like
this, it’s interesting to note something Marcel Vogel has said about crystals.
this, it’s interesting to note something Marcel Vogel has said about crystals.
year career with IBM, has said that, when negative thoughtforms have taken
the shape of disease patterns, a healer who has had the proper training can
release these negative thoughtforms using a crystal.
It’s important to remember when we’re using crystals that we ourselves
are not the healers, and neither are the crystals, in and of themselves. We
simply use the amplifying ability of a crystal to focus the Universal Life
Force Energy on whatever part of the body is in need so that the distressed
cells of the body can repair themselves. Then, when the body has come back
into alignment with its energy fields, a pet or a person can once again be in
harmony with the Source of its Being.
So, in effect, crystals are another gift of creation available for us to use
when we, or our animals, have temporarily lost our connection with our
Source, and have drifted into a state of imbalance that has manifested itself
in a physical way.

Thoughts about healing your pets with crystals

We all want to help our pets feel more comfortable whenever they’re
experiencing illness or unusually stressful situations. Using crystals can be
helpful during these times.
The first thing you’re going to want to do is to center yourself and set
aside all of the negative feelings and emotions you may be experiencing.
This means you need to consciously be mindful of all of your thoughts,
feelings, and intentions.
This is particularly important because animals react to everything they
perceive, especially our feelings. If you’re experiencing fear, your pet will
sense that, and the crystal will amplify that fear. When you’re sending
healing energy to your pet, you want that energy to be as pure and loving as
possible, and completely free from any negative or fearful thoughts.
Another thing you need to know before you begin is when to stop. If a
pet has had enough, you may see a tail swishing or a foot stomping. The ears
may be laid back, the hair on the back may go up, or the animal may try to
move away. These are signs that it’s time to slow down the treatment, or
even stop it altogether.
Crystal energy can bring about rapid healing, so you always want to do it
only at a pace that keeps your pet feeling comfortable. When things are
going smoothly, an animal may close his or her eyes, seem very relaxed, and
even drool, or sigh contentedly.

How to use crystals for healing your pets

There are a number of effective ways to use crystals for healing your pets.
• Any crystal may be made into an amulet and attached to your dog or
cat’s collar, or even worn on his or her harness or halter. If you want to put
more than one crystal into a small pouch, then use three or fewer at a time
because too many different energies could be overwhelming for your pet. If
you do use a pouch, use great caution to be certain it won’t get in your pet’s
way or get caught on anything. It may be wiser to use a pouch only at times
when you’re available to observe your pet. Always remember to “program”
your stones only with loving, healing thoughts. Center yourself first, and be
aware of your positive intentions. Also be sure to set aside any negative
emotions you may be feeling when you do this. Programming your crystals
with loving healing thoughts is the means through which you focus the
energy you want the crystals to store, and then amplify and transmit to your
pet.
• You can also use crystals when you’re doing hands-on healing. Choose a
crystal from the list below, center yourself, and hold the crystal in the hand
that’s most comfortable for you. If the crystal is large enough, your hand will
remain fairly open when you’re holding it. However, if the crystal is quite
small, use your thumb to hold it against the palm of your hand so your
fingers will remain in as open a position as possible. A crystal with a pointed
end could be held between two fingers so that the pointed end is directed
toward the area being treated. As you’re sending healing through your hands
to the body of your pet, be in tune with the energy of the crystal. Its
harmonious vibration is also connecting with the energy field of your pet to
help restore a sense of balance. If an area of the body would benefit from
warmth or cold, you can warm a crystal in the sun, or cool it first, before
applying it to the appropriate area. Remember to start at the animal’s head
and move the hand holding the crystal slowly and gently down to the tail.
Your other hand should usually remain near the head or neck. Both hands
should be held just slightly above the pet’s body, or touching it lightly.
Rotate the hand that’s holding the crystal in a clockwise direction when
you’re moving your hand along the body, or whenever your hand is resting
over an affected area. Watch for signs that say your pet wants more or is
ready to stop. You can do several passes over your pet’s body holding a
different crystal each time. When you’re finished, say thank you, and feel a
deep sense of gratitude for all of the gifts the Universe has given you to help
you take good care of your pet.
• Place the crystal(s) you’ve chosen (not too many at a time) under your
pets’ bed for up to a couple of weeks. If your pet doesn’t want to sleep in the
bed when the crystals are there, it may mean he or she is feeling too much
energy from them. Either reduce the number you’re using, or try using only
one at a time, or remove them altogether. If the crystals are helping your pet,
you should see improvement within a few days. Use caution to be sure there
are no sharp edges and that the position of the crystal isn’t causing your pet
any discomfort.
• You might try placing a rose quartz or amethyst crystal in your pet’s water
bowl, but be sure the crystal you use is too large for your pet to be able to
swallow. The healing energy you’ve focused on that crystal with your
positive intention will be transmitted into the water and will then go
wherever it’s needed in the body whenever your pet takes a drink.
• You can send distance healing to your pet by placing a crystal near a
picture of your pet so the crystal is pointing toward the picture. This may be
comforting for both you and your pet, especially at a time when he or she
has to be in the hospital.

Crystals to use for healing animals

Since each crystal has its own vibration, you may want to choose
different crystals at different times. The following list, which shows some
suggested uses, can serve as a guide.
Agate
Generates courage, emotional strength, and self-confidence. It dispels fear,
eases anxiety and stress, and helps with the acceptance of all things. It’s
helpful for dogs who are doing agility training, as well as for performing
horses, because it increases self-confidence and also helps to provide needed
bursts of energy. Physically, agate is particularly helpful for tooth and gum
issues, stomach problems, and reducing fevers. It’s also beneficial for
promoting physical endurance and longevity.
Amber
Emotionally calming; can absorb negative energy and help the body heal
itself; helps with depression and the loss of a companion animal or friend. It
may be useful for throat infections, bronchial disorders including asthma, as
well as helping with convulsions. It’s also useful for rheumatism, intestinal
disorders, earache, bladder trouble, nerves, or bone-marrow deficiencies.
Although it may look like a stone, amber is really the yellowbrown
fossilized resin of trees.
 Amethyst
Considered a Master Healer because of its spiritual properties. It can be used
for everything including pain, disorientation, headaches, eye problems,
balancing blood sugar, and balancing pituitary function. It’s also useful to
reduce anger, impatience, and nightmares.
Aquamarine
Is calming, uplifting, and helps with flexibility and confidence. It’s also
helpful for releasing anxiety, and for relieving restlessness and fearfulness.
Physically, it’s useful for heart, thymus, and the immune system.
Black Onyx
Useful for bowel health, eliminating parasites, and for protection.
Bloodstone
Useful for overcoming depression and melancholia, especially when the
stone is worn. It’s also said to help with psychosomatic illness and pains that
have an emotional rather than a physical cause. This would make it
beneficial for dogs who seem to “take on” or “mirror” the physical illnesses
or emotional distresses of their humans. Bloodstone is also a purifier of the
blood and a general detoxifier of organs, particularly the liver, kidneys, and
spleen. It’s a deep-green precious stone flecked with red.
Calcite
Useful for skeletal problems.
Carnelian
Helps with confidence and assertiveness, enhances physical energy,
stimulates appetite, and relieves arthritis symptoms; useful for skin,
circulatory system, kidneys, gallbladder, and pancreas.
Celestite
Helps to ease tension, open the mind, and develop awareness; helps relax
muscles; promotes peaceful co-existence and harmonious interaction with
others.
Citrine
Helpful for reducing anxiety, fear, depression, and allergies; useful for
kidneys, liver, spleen, intestines, and urinary system.
Coral
Useful for muscles, blood, heart, kidneys, bladder, thyroid, metabolism,
spine, reproductive system, bone and tissue regeneration; promotes
emotional support. It’s not for use when high blood pressure is present.
Diamond
A master healer; an extremely powerful stone for removing blockages and
emotional negativity. It strengthens the properties of other stones.
Emerald
Useful for heart, blood, lymph nodes, thymus, respiratory system, eyesight,
and birthing; balances blood sugar; relieves depression and insomnia.
Fluorite
Use Green/Yellow for digestion; Green for purifying the blood and the
lymph system; Blue/Green or Clear for the respiratory system; Blue for
bones.
Garnet
Beneficial for the reproductive system.
Hematite
Beneficial for the muscular system.
Howlite (Magnetite)
Stimulates the endocrine system, improves blood circulation, and reduces
stress and anxiety; quietly soothes and calms to bring about a spirit of
gentleness and patience; helps in meditation with your pets.
Jade
Useful for the thymus, heart, nervous system, immune system, kidneys, and
cleansing the blood; helps with courage and emotional balance. Kyanite
Useful for bones and tendons; helps align the chakra system.
Lapis Lazuli
Useful for hearing problems; helps with pituitary and nervous system
function; relieves pain and inflammation; helps with anxiety, restlessness,
and insomnia.
Malachite
For External Use Only. Do not let an animal chew on, or eat, this stone
because of its high lead content. Useful for respiratory system, circulatory
system, and immune system support; beneficial for heart, stomach, liver
detoxification, kidney stones, inflammation, pain, and vision difficulties;
stimulates concentration; helps with depression and anger.
Moldavite
Eases epilepsy, brain imbalances, brain malfunctions, and autism (yes, in
pets too), particularly if brought on by excessive sensitivity; helps one
understand one’s true purpose in life; is a healing balm for the deep longing
—and heartfelt yearning—of many animals to ‘go home’; useful for those
who have lost their home or their way.
Moonstone
Helps soothe and balance emotions; gives inspiration and encourages
personal attachments; physically aids the pituitary gland and digestive
system; helps with obesity, water retention, hormonal problems, and
menstrual problems; often used to reduce excess fluid in the body and to
reduce the swelling caused by this fluid.
Peridot
Balances the emotional mind and calms sudden bursts of aggression; can
cleanse and heal hurt feelings as well as helping to mend damaged
relationships; useful for treating emotional states such as anger or jealousy;
physically aids digestion, soothes the nervous system, and has been
recommended as a cure for insomnia.
Quartz
Amplifies and transmits subtle vibrations; attracts light and energy; works on
all levels as a powerful general healer to strengthen, cleanse, and protect;
protects against harmful electrical vibrations and purifies the air.
Quartz (Clear)
A master healer; effective for all conditions; an overall energizer. Quartz
(Green)
Works with the endocrine system to promote balance and harmony. Quartz
(Smokey)
Useful to reduce swelling; helps the nervous system; is grounding.
Rose Quartz
Calms emotions, helps relieve suffering from emotional trauma, and brings
inner peace by healing wounds of neglect, bitterness, and sorrow; said to
promote forgiveness, love, and friendship; helpful for stimulating the
imagination and the intellect; can be used for injuries and wound healing as
well as relieving stress; promotes emotional balance as well as a sense of
peacefulness and self-esteem; helps with feelings of loss, hurt, anger, and
fear; claimed to be one of the best stones to use in the treatment of migraines
and headaches of all types.
Rhodochrosite
Prevents mental breakdowns; balances one who has suffered physical and
emotional traumas; helps one face reality and new situations; helps release
past psychological issues; inspires forgiveness, heals emotional scars, and
attracts love; physically improves eyesight, as well as kidney, pancreas, and
spleen function.
Ruby
Useful for blood cleansing, blood clots, infections, cholesterol regulation,
circulation, pituitary function; promotes courage, confidence, and vitality.
Sapphire
Useful for fevers, nosebleeds, hearing problems, burns, depression; reduces
inflammation; is calming.
Sodalite
Useful for nervousness; has a calming effect; helpful to relieve the distress
of travel.
Tiger’s Eye
Helps with manifesting one’s will, courage, and self-confidence; especially
good for clear thinking; helps one see a problem objectively when confused
or emotionally affected; releases tension and develops will-power; beneficial
for asthma.
Topaz (Blue)
Helps with clarity and concentration because of its calming properties; is
also beneficial for throat disorders.
Topaz (Yellow)
Helps to overcome stress and soothe nerves; promotes forgiveness,
individuality, self-confidence, and creativity; useful for treating colds and
liver trouble; strengthens blood vessels, improves blood circulation, and
improves one’s sense of taste.
Tourmaline (Black or Green)
Strengthens the nervous system and regulates blood pressure; also deflects
negative energy.
Tourmaline (Blue)
Promotes clear expression; also dissolves mental friction and emotional
distress; useful for all throat problems, thyroid problems, and speech
impediments.
Tourmaline (Multi-colored)
Useful for calming, protection, focus, and balance; attracts goodwill and
friendship; promotes self-confidence and cheerfulness; helps prevent
lymphatic disease; carries a high electrical charge; if rubbed briskly, one end
becomes positive and one negative, and the energy can then be directed
wherever peaceful energy is required.
Tourmaline (Watermelon/Pink)
Promotes understanding of self and emotions; balances the heart. Turquoise
A master healer; used for everything; promotes protection.
Ugilite
Helpful to use for end-of-life situations.

Healing the chakras with crystals

Chakras are the energy centers of the body. It’s the chakra system that
enables a human or an animal’s mind, body, and spirit to act as one
harmonious unit. Chakras bring in the energy of the Universe and transform
it into the kind of energy the body can use. The body is then able to
distribute this energy to the organs, glands, and nerve centers.
If one of those energy centers, or chakras, is impacted by accident,
injury, trauma, conflict, or anything else, the system becomes imbalanced
and disease can result. But the energy of crystals can be used to help restore
balance and harmony to the body by helping to realign the chakras.
The following list will provide information about which crystals may work
best with each chakra.
Root Chakra (located where the tail connects to the body)
Relates to the kidneys, adrenal glands, colon, anus, bones, bone marrow,
spine, back paws, and tail. Using Garnet, Ruby, or Smokey Quartz on the
base chakra may help to relieve urinary incontinence, constipation, spinal
tension, anemia, anger, insecurity, and fears.
Navel Chakra (located in the center of the lower abdomen)
Relates to the stomach, large and small intestines, lumbar vertebrae and
sacrum, the pelvis, genitals, and reproductive organs. Using Topaz, Opal, or
Moonstone on the sacral chakra may help with problems occurring in any of
those areas.
Solar Plexus Chakra (located in the center of the abdomen and also
reflected on top of the spine in animals)
Relates to pancreas, liver, kidneys, gallbladder, stomach, lumbar
vertebrae, and nervous system. Using Citrine, Tiger’s Eye, or Amber on the
mid-abdominal chakra may help to increase energy and appetite, and relieve
digestive disturbances or other problems associated with the related organs
and systems.
Heart Chakra (located over the heart area)
 Relates to the chest, lower lungs, heart, blood circulation, immune
system, and thoracic vertebrae. Using Rose Quartz, Emerald, or Jade on the
heart chakra may help with heart, circulatory, and immune system problems.
These crystals may also help to reduce anger, and promote emotional
stability, balance, harmony, and contentment.
Throat Chakra (located in the throat area)
Relates to respiratory system, lungs, throat, mouth, vocal cords, thyroid,
forelegs, and paws. Using Aquamarine, Blue Topaz, and Turquoise on the
throat chakra may help with thyroid problems, metabolic problems, hair loss,
unusual weight gain or loss, and barking problems.
Third Eye Chakra (located on the forehead between the eyes)
Relates to the forehead, left eye, ears, left side of the head, base of the
skull, left hemisphere of the brain, and the nervous system. Using Clear
Quartz, Blue Sapphire, or Tourmaline on the third eye chakra may help with
eye problems, headaches, hyperactivity, and agitation.
Crown Chakra (located in the center of the top of the head)
Relates to the right eye, right brain hemisphere, right side of the head,
cranium, and cerebral cortex. Using Clear Quartz, Amethyst, or Opal on the
crown chakra may help to relieve malaise, confusion, depression,
convulsions, and other symptoms.

Care of your crystals

Since you want to be sure your crystals are storing only positive, loving,
healing energy, it’s best if you’re the only one who handles them. However,
if you’re letting other people hold them, you can first cleanse those crystals
before using them again to assure that they aren’t retaining any possible
negative energy inadvertently transmitted by the other person. It’s also wise
to cleanse each crystal just before using it to clear out any stored energy
from a prior use. You can do this in several different ways.
Keep in mind that it’s not the method you choose that’s important when
you want to clear stored energy from the crystal. Using any of the suggested
methods is a means to help you remember to do what’s most important, and
that is holding the intention of clearing out any unwanted energies.
Soaking
In a glass bowl, dissolve a cup of sea salt in a quart of room temperature
purified or spring water. Holding the intention that only positive, loving,
healing energy is to remain in the crystal, soak it in this solution for 15
minutes to 24 hours, depending on how many people may have handled it, or
how much energy it may have collected from your pet during a treatment.
Then rinse it under cool water and dry it with a cotton or silk cloth.
This method is satisfactory for most quartz crystals. However, azurite,
malachite, and some other crystals will lose their sheen if they’re exposed to
too much salt.
Flowing Water
Washing your crystals in the ocean or a stream or a river is a wonderful
natural way of cleansing them. However, if this isn’t possible, another
suggestion is to hold your crystal under flowing tepid tap water. Hold the
intention that all negative energy be washed away and that only positive,
loving, healing energy remain. When you intuitively sense only positive
energy remaining, dry the crystal with a cotton or silk cloth. It’s important
not to use water that’s too hot or too cold because any natural cracks in a
crystal could break open if they’re subjected to a dramatic temperature
change.
Incense or Smudging
If you have stones that are delicate, you may not want to subject them to
water because they could crumble or break. In this case, you can use incense
or a smudge stick to clear them. Calcite, selenite, and dioptase are some
examples of this type of crystal that you may want to clear without using
water.
You can make a purifying incense using lavender, sage, frankincense,
myrrh, sandalwood, or cinnamon, or you can use a smudge stick. Let the
cleansing smoke of the incense waft around the crystal while you hold the
intention that all negative energy is being carried away and only positive,
loving, healing energy remains. Do this until your intuition tells you the
clearing is complete.
Mother Earth
If a crystal doesn’t seem to respond to water or incense cleansing, you
might try burying it in the ground for a day or more. First, wrap it in a
cotton, silk, or linen cloth, and be sure to place a visible marker to identify
the location in which you’ve buried it. A crystal with a point on it should be
placed in the ground with the point down. Again, let your intuition tell you
when the crystal is ready for use.
Sunlight and Moonlight
 Exposing crystals to the rays of the sun or the moon, outdoors or on a
windowsill, is another effective way of cleansing them and restoring their
healing energies. If their color fades when you do this, it may mean they’ve
been colored in an artificial way.
Cleaning Smaller Crystals with Other Crystals
Smaller crystals can also be cleaned by placing them on an already clean
amethyst or clear quartz cluster. Amethyst is known for its cleansing
properties, and clear quartz helps other crystals rebuild their healing energy.
Reiki
If you’ve received Reiki attunement, hold a positive intention and let the
Universal Life Force Energy flow through your crystals to cleanse them of
any stored negative energy. Do this until your intuition tells you the clearing
is complete.
***
Crystals are an effective means to focus the energy of the Universe to
help bring about healing, so learning to use them is yet another beneficial
way you can “Do something” for your pets.
There are several key things to remember whenever you’re using them.
• Use crystals only when you’ve first centered yourself and are able to send
positive, loving, healing energy. You always want the energy you send when
you’re using crystals to be as pure and loving as possible and free from any
fearful or negative thoughts.
• Don’t use too many different crystals at the same time. Pets are very
sensitive to energy, so you don’t want to “overload” them.
• And last, but not least, cleanse your crystals frequently to remove any
negative energy they may have picked up from a treatment, or because
someone else has handled them.
15: Incense —An Overview
I
ncense has many practical healing uses not only for people but also for
pets. Because animals have such a highly developed sense of smell, they
often respond very well to the pleasing scents and beneficial effects of
incense.
These wonderful fragrances reduce tension and stress, relieve depression,
and uplift the spirit. And, if certain fragrances are inhaled at the same time a
person or a pet is experiencing pleasant feelings, inhaling those same scents
later on can help to repeat those same desirable states of mind once again for
both animals and people.
While most people already know incense can be very helpful for
relieving problems that have apparent emotional causes, many may be
surprised to learn the scent of incense can also be used to help promote the
healing process, even when there’s a physical ailment involved.
Incense, however, doesn’t work directly to relieve or heal certain types
of physical problems such as spasms, pain, colitis, ulcers, etc., but it can be
very helpful for correcting the imbalances that are the cause of those
physical problems.
The cause of an imbalance that results in either a physical or an
emotional ailment begins with negative emotions and perceptions, and the
scent of incense can help to alter those negative emotions and perceptions.
Incense works well for this purpose because, like the scent of essential
oils, it’s quickly absorbed through the mucous membranes of the nose. It
then moves to the center of the brain where it can beneficially influence
emotions, perceptions, and even hormones and the nervous system. When
the cause has been corrected or removed, the symptoms of what we call a
physical ailment will usually begin to go away, and balance and harmony
can once again be restored.
In Tibetan medicine, we find similar evidence showing that incense can
promote the healing process, but it doesn’t actually treat the disease. In the
Tibetan model, it’s believed that incense acts on one or more of the three
principal systems that regulate all functions of the body and mind. Those
systems are known as Wind, Bile, and Phlegm.
 If a person or a pet has a psychological or physical reaction to life events
or situations that disturbs one or more of those systems, certain disorders
(“dis-eases”) will eventually manifest in the body.
Inhaling the scent of incense can treat the systems that are affected, and
when the systems are brought back into alignment, then the physical disorder
should eventually be relieved.
An incense fragrance used by itself, however, is usually not sufficient to
relieve a physical problem, but it can be a helpful therapy to use in addition
to diet, herbs, essential oils, physical therapy, massage, acupuncture, and
even traditional medications.
The reason incense can be so beneficial is that the harmony and energy
of each fragrance helps re-connect us with the oneness of everything in the
Universe. And when we and our pets are living in a state of balance and
harmony with the Universe, we can both be free from the physical and
emotional discomforts that would otherwise affect us.

The history of incense

It may have been simply the burning of fragrant woods such as cedar,
pine, and cypress, and the burning of aromatic resins, roots, berries, and
other natural materials that gave us the true origin of incense.
That’s because primitive man’s first experiences with fire may have led
him to realize that certain woods have an even more pleasing aroma when
they’re burned. Not only that, but he soon discovered inhaling those aromas
often provided beneficial effects which could be felt both physically and
emotionally.
Throughout recorded history, for 5,000 years or more, burning natural
elements to release their fragrances has been a common practice. In virtually
every culture throughout the world, we can find incense artifacts that are
thousands of years old. It’s also interesting to note that some of the earliest
trade routes were used to transport valuable incense ingredients— woods,
resins, and spices—between civilizations.

The many forms of incense

Incense, in the widest sense of the word, refers to a material that burns
and releases a vapor with a fragrant odor. It comes in a variety of different
forms: raw woods, chopped herbs, pastes, powders, and even liquids or oils.
However, when most of us think of incense today, we tend to think
primarily about incense sticks, spirals, cones, or powders. Sticks and cones
may also be enhanced by using added herbs or essential oils to achieve a
more synergistic effect.
The most commonly available form is stick incense, often called a joss
stick. This is incense made from aromatic plant gum, or resin, which either
forms, or coats, a long thin stick. In some cases, essential oils may also be
added. When a joss stick is burned, it smolders slowly and releases a
fragrant smoke.
Solid joss sticks , commonly produced in Japan, are made entirely of
incense material and have no supporting core. Solid sticks can easily be
broken into smaller pieces if you want to burn only a small amount at a time.
Cored joss sticks , commonly produced by the Indians and the Chinese,
have a supporting center core coated with a thick layer of incense material
that burns away with the core. High quality varieties use fragrant
sandalwood cores, but bamboo is the material used most often.
Spiral incense is essentially stick incense shaped into the form of a coil.
It burns very slowly and sometimes lasts for hours, or even days, depending
on what it’s made of, and how long and thick the coil is.
Cone incense is a chunk of the same gum or resin used in stick incense
that’s been formed into a cone shape. It’s lit at the tip and then extinguished.
A burning ember continues to release smoke and fragrance with even more
intensity as it burns closer to the base.
Powdered incense requires a separate heat source such as hot ash, coal,
or a specially heated plate, and it’s burned in a special container called a
censer or burner. It’s usually used only in formal religious ceremonies, or by
experienced practitioners, because it takes a bit more preparation to burn it.
However, a powder is incense in its purest form and it allows the user to
enjoy a single herb or resin, or make a specific formula, without the addition
of the binders, bark powders, or charcoal required to facilitate combustion in
the formed types of incense listed above.
Liquid incense and essential oils come in two basic types:
incense/essential oil preparations and artificial aromas. These can be warmed
in a diffuser, added to a bath, or diluted for use as a fragrance which can be
worn, misted in the air or on bedding, or combined into any blend of resin or
formed incense. When worn or used for bathing, these substances may also
be absorbed directly through the skin, providing even further benefits.
Liquid preparations also allow the user to enjoy the benefits of incense
in circumstances where the smoke of the burning fragrance would be
unwanted, inappropriate, or might offend others. Remember, incense
appreciation is a personal experience, and what you and your pet enjoy
might not be similarly pleasant for others. Also, what’s helpful for one
individual’s condition might not be beneficial, or may even be
contraindicated, for another person or pet.
Incense comes in a variety of colors and fragrances. These fragrances
may be a single natural scent or a combination created by using two or more
different gums or resins. The possible combinations are almost endless.
Each individual fragrance has its own soothing and uplifting effect and
its own vibration. Incense, like perfumes, can be described as notes, similar
to the notes of a piano.
The top or high notes are the powerful scents you experience when you
first ignite a stick of incense. They usually don’t last very long. The middle
notes are like a soft fragrance that lingers in the air, while the base notes are
usually earthy and woody and beneficial for grounding.
It’s interesting to note the relationship of some of the common incense
ingredients to the five elements of life: Earth (solidity), Water (fluidity), Fire
(heat), Air (motility) and Space (sometimes called Ether—openness). You
can see these relationships in the following chart.
Element Plant Part Ingredient
Earth Roots Ginger, Spikenard, Turmeric, Valerian
Water
Stems and branches
Aloeswood, Cedarwood, Frankincense, Myrrh, Sandalwood
Fire Flowers Clove Air Leaves Patchouli Space Fruit Star Anise

How to select pure incense

Just as it’s very important to select only the purest essential oils for
therapeutic use, it’s also important to select only the purest incense products
whenever you’re looking for a healing form of therapy.
The only incenses that have healing properties attributed to them are
those made exclusively from natural aromatic ingredients. These would
include fragrances such as anise, camphor, cinnamon, clove, and
sandalwood, or those made with other traditional ingredients such as
benzoin, frankincense, and patchouli. Among the finer lines of incense,
you’ll also find aloeswood.
Tibetan incense may add any number of Himalayan herbs to their
formulas, each for a specific intent. Some of these may be useful for
relieving problems such as high blood pressure, stress, or asthma, or for
energizing, clarity, focus, or other purposes.
Traditional types of Japanese incense are similar to Tibetan incense.
However, the perfume-based fragrances of some of the finer modern
Japanese incense may not be pure enough for therapeutic use, and the potent
fragrances of these lines may be overpowering for many humans, or even
irritating to pets.
If you use any form other than the purest incense, it should be reserved
only for aromatic enjoyment or covering up unpleasant odors, but never for
treating your pets. That’s because common flea market and other dipped
fragrances may contain synthetic ingredients. Many are often made of
sawmill dust, coconut husk fiber, composted dung, or other absorbent,
combustible materials that produce an abundance of smoke.
These sticks or cones are then saturated with synthetic chemicals and
petroleum-based cutting agents which don’t have any therapeutic value.
When they’re burned, they even emit toxins such as ethylene glycol,
formaldehyde, and potassium nitrate among other things, and those
substances may be responsible for causing headaches and nausea.
If you’re purchasing incense sticks for healing purposes and they have
essential oils added to them, it’s very important not only for the incense to be
of the purest quality, but for the essential oils to be of therapeutic grade
quality also. Professionals who have experimented with various qualities of
incense, or incense that has been blended with either high or low quality
essential oils, agree that the desired benefits just aren’t there when either
lower quality incense or lower quality oils are used.
Another important item to consider when you’re looking for pure incense
is what component has been used to cause the incense to burn well.
Unfortunately, many low quality products use aluminum or potassium nitrate
to cause combustion. Both of these substances are toxic and have no place in
our bodies or those of our pets. Instead, look for higher quality products that
use makko powder as a source of combustion.
Incense and pets

Because incense has the power to comfort, quicken, uplift, and purify our
senses, as well as helping to bring about the healing of physical and
emotional ailments, it has many practical applications. Its amazing qualities,
including the power to enhance energy and promote physical healing, make
it beneficial for pets at many different stages of their lives.
For example, consider this information that Saila Allan from New Zealand
shared with me.
“Patchouli oil is a wonderfully soothing oil for people, very calming
during stressful times. It works on anger, depression, grief, anxiety, stress,
and strong emotions and is one of the best incense oils you can possibly
have. It’s fantastic to use early in the morning, as it seems to help one keep a
balanced perspective. A few drops in the afternoon will also keep that
momentum going. It’s a very earthy scent so it also provides a grounding
effect. For this reason, it’s wonderful for people to use after meditating to
keep “one’s feet firmly on the ground.”
“I would imagine that if you used Patchouli with animals, it would have
similar effects on sadness, anxiety, stress, strong emotions, etc. . . . and be
very calming and soothing for a hyper animal. Because of its grounding
effect, it would also be very beneficial for a pet who is skitterish by helping
her become more centered. Perhaps it would also be good for an animal who
has to be left in a kennel and is missing her owner (the grief factor).
“Frankincense is useful for clearing negative energies in people, so I’m
sure it must work similarly for animals. The same would be true for many
other incense fragrances.”
She also told me that Sandalwood has calmed some overactive puppies
and helped them fall asleep more easily. Both Lavender and Aloeswood
incense also work very well as relaxing, calming influences.
For the purpose of calming puppies at bedtime, though, incense should
only be burned for a short time in the room where they’ll sleep, and then
extinguished before putting them to bed in that room so all of the smoke has
had time to completely dissipate.
To avoid exposing puppies to incense smoke altogether, you might prefer
diffusing incense in a liquid form, or misting it into the air using a sprayer
bottle instead.
You’ll discover many more practical ways to use incense for pets, and for
yourself, in the list of fragrances in the next chapter.
A cautionary note about pets and incense
There’s a special caution about burning incense for pets. It should never
be done in an enclosed room, with minimal ventilation or circulation, where
pets cannot leave the area on their own if the effects become overwhelming
for them.
This is particularly true for puppies, kittens, birds, and small animals
kept in cages, but it also applies to adult and senior dogs and cats. That’s
why sometimes it’s better to burn, and then completely extinguish, incense
before bringing pets of any kind into an enclosed room. They should be able
to enjoy the benefit of only a very gentle, lingering scent and never be
overwhelmed by a strongly intense scent or by any smoke. For even greater
safety, you can use incense in liquid or mist form instead.
Even for some length of time after any burning incense has been
extinguished, it may still be wise to leave a door open to let the strength of
the scent dissipate more completely. Remember, the intensity of a scent that
may seem very pleasant to us humans may, in fact, be quite overwhelming to
animals because of their extraordinarily keen sense of smell.

One person’s experience with a special pet and incense

While I was in the process of compiling information for this particular

chapter, I had the opportunity to meet a fellow writer, John Rios, at a book
convention. He shared the following account with me about his experience
of using incense to help a dying pet:
“Muffy was almost sixteen when she came into my life. At that time, ten
years ago, I wasn’t looking for a pet. Instead, I was looking for a
relationship. When I found the person I thought I could spend the rest of my
life with, Muffy came along with him.
“There were times when her intense look would make me uncomfortable.
Sometimes when I was having a conversation with Jeff, she’d be paying
attention to me as though she understood my human language, her alert
cinnamon brown eyes trying to figure out who I was, and what kind of
business I could have with Jeff. Her little ears were pointing out, her chubby
plump body was frozen at attention, and she was alert to every detail of our
conversation. I thought she was a very unique little Corgi, and that I’d better
choose my words carefully and mind my manners when talking with Jeff if I
wanted to gain her affection as well.
“When Jeff and I bought a house together, it took Muffy a long while to
decide to venture out into her new environment. At first, she would just go to
the back yard and explore, moving her heavy old body around our newly
planted garden of vegetables and herbs. She would zigzag around the mature
maple trees. A plum tree, planted by the previous owners in our back yard,
became her favorite. She would hide under the extended branches that were
like a parasol and rest there for hours, trying to escape from the heat of the
summer days of the South while I worked in the garden.
“Finally, she decided to explore the front yard. She walked very slowly
and her body always seemed to be too heavy for her short legs. She became
even more adventurous as time passed and grew to love her walks around
the neighborhood, particularly visiting our neighbor across the street in his
large, neatly kept front yard.
“We lived in a rural section of town where there was a narrow road in
front of our house, but it wasn’t busy at all during the day. Since I was home,
I was always able to watch her.
“One dark, cold, early morning in mid-December, Muffy went out. She
didn’t come back as soon as usual so Jeff decided to go out looking for her.
He found her lying down on the cold pavement. He picked her up and
brought her inside our living room.
“My first reaction was to think she’d been hit by a car, but she didn’t show
any sign of having been hit. She wasn’t bleeding anywhere and she was still
breathing.
“Jeff knew instinctively that she was dying in his arms and was now
sobbing uncontrollably. My first thought was to try to do something to ease
Muffy’s pain. Since I usually keep incense in the house, my first reaction
was to put the burner close to her nose. The Myrrh was burning vigorously
and the smell was, as usual, very purified and clean.
“She noticed the scent and her eyes turned toward the burner. Her
breathing became heavier and heavier but the painful look in her eyes
became less distressful. With a calm expression, she looked at me, and I felt
as if she was thanking me for bringing the incense to her. I felt as if she was
expressing her thoughts without words, but there was a lot of meaning. Her
eyes were now peaceful, and I can even describe her look as happy.
 “The Myrrh burned very quickly and once the fire expired inside the
burner, Muffy did the same. The last smoke of the incense and the last breath
of Muffy entwined together, rising as one to the world of new beginnings.
“Jeff buried Muffy under her favorite plum tree, and the tree welcomed
her with it’s undressed branches that winter. Her body was beneath it under
the soil, but she was now at peace and transforming herself into a beautiful
spirit.”
You can see, from the information both Saila and John have shared, that
incense can be beneficial for every stage of a pet’s life—from soon after
birth all the way through a pet’s transition back to Spirit.
***
In the next chapter, we’ll look at the many benefits of a variety of
incense fragrances and how they might improve the health and wellbeing of
both you and your pets.
16: Incense — Benefits and Fragrances
T
he main benefits of incense are stress reduction and relaxation, as well as
the enhancement of meditation for people. It’s also frequently used to purify
or clear the air, to dispel or eliminate negative energy, and to repel or
eliminate insects. Some scents even help to reduce negative behaviors in pets
by relieving whatever stress or fear may be causing those unwanted
behaviors.
Another benefit of incense is that it can counteract the many undesirable
aromas that regularly assault our senses in our modern world. These
sometimes-toxic fumes and aromas may even become the cause of
imbalances in our lives. However, using incense is a very effective way of
adjusting your surroundings to provide comfort, stimulation, and a renewed
sense of balance for both pets and people.
Many lists of incense fragrances seem to imply that incense also actually
heals certain physical ailments, but as you learned in the previous chapter,
it’s much more accurate to say that inhaling incense fragrances promotes
healing.
Although the following lists do indicate that an incense fragrance can be
used, at least in theory, for certain specific physical problems, remember to
keep in mind that it’s not the physical ailment itself you’re treating with
incense. You’re using the incense to rebalance the emotions or perceptions
that caused the imbalance in the first place. Or, in the Tibetan model, you’re
using a particular incense fragrance to treat the specific system that’s out of
balance.
To find an incense that may be appropriate for treating one of the three
systems (Wind, Bile or Phlegm), you can match the following information
with specific fragrances and physical conditions on the list below.
• Some disorders associated with the Wind system include: pain that is
erratic or diffuse, lower back and hip pain, abdominal distention,
constipation, diarrhea, dry skin, anxiety, depression, mood swings, sleep
disturbances, irregular blood pressure, and tumors that metastasize.
• A disturbance in the Bile system may produce anger, high blood pressure,
vomiting, gastric acidity, liver dysfunction, and the development of fast
growing tumors.
• Phlegm system disorders can include sensations of physical or mental
heaviness, kidney disorders, low blood pressure, slow metabolism,
weakness, diarrhea, the development of soft cysts, and the development of
slow growing tumors.
If you’re not trying to treat the cause of any specific condition, you might
decide to select incense according to a specific type of scent. For example:
Woody Sandalwood, Cedarwood
Spicy Cardamom, Cinnamon Earthy Patchouli, Vetiver
Resinous Frankincense, Myrrh Floral Rose, Jasmine
Herbal Lavender, Rosemary Citrus Citronella, Lemongrass
Animal Musk
Since ancient times, healers have attuned themselves to nature and let
their intuition guide their choices for healing. Today most people also choose
incense by allowing their intuition to guide them to a scent they feel is for
their highest good at the moment. This intuitive method is also useful when
you’re selecting the right incense to use for your pets. Or you may find it
helpful to use one of the pre-testing techniques that are described in Chapter
24, How To Pre-Test Remedies.
Though potentially profound, you’ll find the effects of incense are
experienced more gradually than the effects of pharmaceutical medications,
but on the other hand, the effects of incense are usually more quickly
experienced than when herbs are taken internally. A benefit of inhaling
incense fragrances is that they generally produce fewer undesirable side
effects such as stomach upset or other internal discomforts sometimes
associated with having to digest various herbs and medications.
Remember, whenever a physical ailment is listed, you’ll be using that
incense fragrance to create a renewed sense of balance, rather than trying to
temporarily silence a symptom. When the vapors are breathed in, they act on
the causes (spiritual, mental, or emotional) of any physical or emotional
imbalances, but not on the actual symptoms of the ailments themselves.

List of Incense Fragrances

Most of the fragrances on the list below can be found in convenient-

touse liquid, oil, or stick forms. Just be sure you’re always using only the
purest form of incense you can find.
 Aloeswood
Relaxing and useful as a remedy for nervous disorders; may be beneficial for
high strung pets; is in high demand as a meditation aid for people because it
seems to have a great calming effect on the mind.
Anise
Useful for conditions involving respiratory ailments, digestion, and
headaches.
Bayberry
Useful for conditions involving diarrhea, ulcers, and hemorrhoids; also
useful for repelling flies.
Benzoin
Relaxing and calming.
Burgundy Pitch (Spruce) Resin
Strengthening; used in incense for rheumatism (also applies to Colophony,
other conifer resins, Cedarwood, and Pinon Pine resin).
Calamus Root
Strengthening; used for emotional distress.
Cardamom
Stimulating; useful for conditions involving digestion and flatulence.
Cassia
Relieves stress and is comforting.
Cedarwood
Rejuvenating; has a beneficial effect on the nerves; reduces stress, anxiety,
and tension; useful for conditions requiring expectorant or diuretic action.
Cinnamon
Useful for conditions involving poor circulation, colitis, nausea, diarrhea,
spasms, rheumatism, colds, headaches, abdominal and heart pains, kidney
problems, diabetes, hypertension, immune system problems, and parasite
infestations; also relieves stress and is comforting.
Clove
Stimulating; sharpens the senses; useful for conditions such as colds and flu
that require expectorant action; also useful for conditions of excessive gas.
Copals: Golden, White Cleansing; good for mental focus.
Copal Black Grounding and balancing.
Coriander
Useful for chronic tension and for headaches resulting from tension;
alleviates depression.
Dammar
Useful for relieving sadness, depression, and melancholy.
Dragon's Blood
Cleansing; used for grounding and balance in traditional blends containing
Frankincense and Myrrh.
Elemi
Cleansing, refreshing, energizing; provides focus.
Eucalyptus
Cleansing, stimulating; traditionally used for asthma, colds, and troubled
breathing; useful for respiratory conditions such as bronchitis and croup, and
for conditions involving muscular aches and pains or high blood sugar
levels; beneficial for disinfecting the air.
Fennel
Warming and cleansing.
Frankincense
Relaxing, clarifying; effective for clearing negative energies; useful for
inflammatory conditions including arthritis, and for improving the blood
supply; may also aid respiration, but use with caution as incense smoke may
cause the opposite effect in some people and animals.
Galangal
Energizing; relieves nausea; used for respiratory ailments with congestion
such as bronchitis; also used for rheumatic conditions.
Galbanum
Used for anxiousness and tension; according to traditional uses it may
reduce muscle spasm.
Geranium
Soothing to the nerves; has anti-depressive properties; may also be effective
as an insect repellent.
Ginger
Useful for conditions involving motion sickness, hangovers, headaches, and
nausea of all types; adding cinnamon to ginger enhances its effectiveness.
Grapefruit
Stimulating; useful for conditions involving digestion, over-eating, and
excessive gas.
Guggul
Builds energy; reduces pain and swelling; is calming and relaxing. Hibiscus
Flowers
Used for a bright and floral fragrance in incense.
Honey
Useful for conditions involving bacterial infections.
Hyssop
Cleansing, purifying; aids relaxation.
Jasmine
An aphrodisiac; relieves tension, aids relaxation; is considered an
antidepressant.
Juniper Berry
Useful for clearing the air of diseases; strengthening and healing; used by
Native Americans for purification and healing; a highly respected incense
ingredient used by every incense burning civilization worldwide.
Lavender
Relaxing, refreshing, cleansing; useful for conditions involving poor
circulation, muscle aches, nervous system disorders; also helpful for
comforting the stomach and for allergies.
Lemon
Invigorating, purifying, refreshing; increases energy and helps
concentration; useful for conditions involving nausea, digestion, and fever;
has antiviral, antiseptic, and astringent properties.
Lemongrass
Calming, soothing; useful for relieving headaches.
Licorice
Useful for conditions involving respiratory problems, the need to expel
phlegm, or for constipation; is soothing to the liver, pancreas, and chest.
Lotus
Promotes clarity of mind and helps to activate the heart chakra. Mastic
Relieves depression; provides a lightened feeling.
Mint
Uplifting and soothing; useful for conditions involving flatulence, digestion,
or vomiting.
Mugwort (Desert Mugwort)
Relaxing; may help with digestion; aids in times of weakness or exhaustion;
improves endurance.
Mustard
Useful for conditions involving chest discomfort and congestion.
 Myrrh
Promotes spiritual awareness and is uplifting; useful for conditions involving
the skin, tissue renewal, fungal infections, diabetes, cancer, and hepatitis.
Myrtle
Useful for conditions involving coughs, chest infections, thyroid problems,
and muscle spasms.
Patchouli
Is soothing and calming and has a stabilizing influence; helps one discard
obsessions and insecurities; has regenerative, decongestant, and
antidepressant properties; useful for conditions involving itching or skin
problems.
Pine
Refreshing, energizing, strengthening; believed to help rebuild one's
constitution after illness or injury; useful for conditions involving pulmonary
illnesses, sinus problems, bronchial congestion, bronchitis, coughs, asthma,
arthritis, and rheumatism.
Poppy
Useful for conditions involving insomnia, headaches, and respiratory
problems.
Rose
Comforting; promotes peace, tranquility and love; stimulating and
antidepressive; soothing to the nerves; useful for conditions involving the
need for tissue renewal and cell regeneration.
Rosemary
Stimulating and anti-depressive; useful for conditions involving the heart
and nerves.
Rosewood
Produces a calm, relaxed, almost euphoric state of mind; useful for
conditions involving the need for tissue renewal and cell regeneration.
Sage
Stimulating and anti-depressive; useful for conditions involving nervous
disorders, diarrhea, gastritis, sore throat, and the need for tissue renewal and
cell regeneration; may be helpful for skin problems and infections; acts as an
insect repellant; useful for clearing negative energies and purifying prior to
using other incense.
Sandalwood
Relaxing; relieves anxiety, agitation, depression, grief, fatigue, and nervous
tension; useful for conditions involving bronchitis, cystitis, digestion,
headaches, insomnia, the skin, and the need for tissue renewal and cell
regeneration; beneficial as an immune system booster; can relieve gout in
dogs, horses, and reptiles.
Sandarac
Calming; reduces tension; may act as a vermifuge to help expel worms and
parasites.
Spikenard
Used for headache, tension, and indigestion; has calming, balancing, and
sedating properties; useful for any nervous or fearful conditions. Star Anise
Useful for relaxation, sleep, balance, and relieving stress.
Sweetgrass
Relaxing, soothing, and healing; attracts positive energies.
Tamarind
Useful for conditions involving fevers, constipation, bile disorders,
digestion, inflammation, sore throats, and rheumatism.
Tea Tree
Helpful for fatigue; useful for conditions involving respiratory illnesses and
infections including coughs and colds; said to have antiseptic, antimicrobial,
carminative, and sedative properties; can also successfully be used as a
powerful insect repellent.
Turmeric
Useful for conditions involving digestive and liver problems, inflammatory
conditions, lowering high cholesterol, and stimulating the secretion of bile.
Valerian
Relieves nervous tension and can promote sleep; useful for conditions
involving muscular spasm and headaches.
Vanilla
Relaxing; relieves anxiety; may be useful for pets when they have to go to
the veterinary clinic.
Vetiver Relaxing, calming.
Yerba Santa
Similar to mugwort; conquers fear and emotional disturbances; purifies a
space.
Ylang Ylang
Balancing; useful for conditions involving cardiac arrhythmia, cardiac
problems, anxiety, hypertension, depression, hair loss, and intestinal
problems; has sedative, antiseptic, and aphrodisiac properties.
***
Some other incense fragrances you might want to explore include:
Apple Cherry Coconut Lime Musk Opium Orange Strawberry
Tangerine Violet

Combination formulas

If you enjoy using combination formulas, you may find Tibetan incense
with added herbs to be helpful. Also, many incense fragrances, which are
traditionally used for meditation, are often based on ancient medicinal
formulas, so some of these may be useful when you want to treat the cause
of physical ailments for your pets.
You learned in the chapter about essential oils that heating pure essential
oils may destroy, or at least reduce, their therapeutic effectiveness. However,
combining pure incense with pure essential oils has been shown in some
cases to have a synergistic effect, so you may want to give some of these
combination incense/essential oil products a try, even if some of the
therapeutic value might be lost in the burning process. The synergistic effect
of the combination of pure incense and pure essential oils may make up for
that loss.
Helpful sources for both single and combination types of incense can be
found at www.ecclecstacy.com and www.rainbowskytrading.com. David
Roden, owner of Ecclecstacy Arts, and Vicki Meals, owner of Rainbow Sky
2 (formerly known as Rainbow Sky Trading), both offer high quality
products, and both have contributed significant information about incense
during the writing of these two chapters.
***
It may be necessary to experiment with various single scents or
combinations of incense before you find those that are just right to meet your
pet’s special needs. While you can let your intuition guide you initially, your
pet will be sure to let you know if you’ve made the right choice. Whatever
fragrances you finally choose, rest assured that using incense can be another
very effective way to “Do something” for your pet.
17: Animal Communication
C
ommunicating with your pets is a very important first step whenever they
have to cope with unusually stressful situations. It’s even more important
when they need help with healing of any kind—physical, mental, emotional,
spiritual, or behavioral.
Our pets are actually communicating with us all the time. Usually, we
receive their messages quite clearly when they use their bodies and their
eyes in those cute and clever ways to ask for a treat, or tell us they want to
play, take a walk, or be petted. But in every day life, we simply aren’t “tuned
in” enough to receive many of the more important messages they’re trying to
send us.
Very often they’re trying to tell us how they feel, what they need, or
where they hurt. They do this by sending us “pictures” in the same way they
use “picture messages” to communicate with other animals.
You may even have had the experience of looking into your pet’s eyes at
one time or another and feeling very strongly that something just wasn’t
right. However, you couldn’t clearly understand what your pet was trying to
tell you. Maybe you didn’t even know there was a way you could.
Yet, everyone, including you, has the natural ability to “receive” these
pictures, or to hear something like a spoken message your pet is sending
you. Most people don’t “see” or “hear” these messages, however, because
they never take time to become quiet enough to listen—to really listen.
Although you can develop this gift of listening with your intuitive sense
just by using a little patience and practice, you may sometimes need the help
of someone who’s accomplished at doing it all the time—a person who’s
known as an animal communicator.
When an animal wants to “speak” with its human, or a human wants to
better understand his or her pet, an animal communicator can act as a
facilitator between the two of them.
An appointment is much like a counseling session in which both the
person and the pet discover the other’s feelings, concerns, needs, and wishes.
An animal communicator can then show both the person and the pet how to
work together to meet those needs.
 In this chapter, I’ll explain how I discovered my own gift for
communicating with animals and the many ways in which I, and other
experienced animal communicators, can use this intuitive gift to help your
pets, especially when they have health issues.
We’ll also talk about the profound effect emotions can have on the
physical well being of pets, and I’ll provide you with some guidelines you
can use when you’re looking for a professional animal communicator in
your own area.

My own gift of animal communication

I was only eight years old when I first realized animals were able to tell
me what they wanted or needed, or how they felt. They did this by sending
me pictures.
Although this was exciting for me in the beginning, I soon realized that
none of my family members or friends were able to communicate with
animals the same way I could. If I told anyone what I’d heard an animal say,
I’d be treated as if I was weird, or as if I was a mentally challenged kid.
It didn’t take me very long to realize there were some things it just
wasn’t wise to talk about to other people. From that point on, during my
younger years, I kept any animal communications to myself, but more often
than not, I’d actually ignore them, or even refuse to acknowledge they were
happening. I did this for at least the next ten years of my life.
I had to grow up, marry, and begin caring for my children before I began
to find out who I was, what I was here to do, and how I was supposed to use
this special gift I’d been ignoring for so long.
As a young adult, I seriously began searching for the meaning of life,
and in doing so, I soon discovered that my life’s purpose—my Life
Assignment—actually required me to use the unique gift I’d discovered as a
young child.
Through several years of deep spiritual study, I learned how important
and normal my gift is. It only needed to be acknowledged and nurtured.
Once I’d finally done that, my Life Assignment soon became absolutely
clear to me.
Over time, I’d run a whole gamut of emotional reactions to my precious
gift from at first listening to what animals wanted to say when I was very
young, to then not wanting to “hear” them at all, and at last, to wanting to
spend the entire rest of my life communicating with them and helping them
heal spiritually, emotionally, and physically. Happily, I’ve now been doing
this kind of work for many years.
The gifts of medical intuition and spiritual healing
I’m not only an animal communicator, though; I’m also a medical
intuitive and a spiritual healer.
If there’s a suspected health problem, I can “scan” a pet’s body to help
pinpoint possible problem areas. It’s a little bit like doing an “energy” CAT
scan or taking an “energy” X-ray of the pet’s entire body and all of its
internal organs. This mental picture can often provide clues to help a
veterinarian arrive at a correct diagnosis.
Once I’ve identified the problem, I can then send healing light energy to the
pet, either in person or remotely.
It’s important to understand, though, that I, or any other medical
intuitive/spiritual healer, usually can’t instantly cure an animal’s physical
health problems using spiritual healing methods alone. But an experienced
animal communicator, who also has the gifts of medical intuition and
spiritual healing, may be able to do something much more important.
He or she can first identify and heal the spiritual, mental, and emotional
cause(s) of physical or behavioral problems. Sometimes the spiritual,
mental, or emotional part of the healing process can even be accomplished
very quickly.
Healing then takes on a brand new meaning. While it doesn’t mean
immediately curing a pet’s physical ailment or behavioral disorder, it does
mean discovering and healing the cause of the problem. Once the cause has
been corrected, animals are then able to return to a normal state of physical
health, or to stop using inappropriate behaviors, more quickly and easily.
My own practice
Presently, my practice as an animal communicator spans virtually all pet
issues and all animal species.
I’m able to work, not only in person, but also by telephone, e-mail, postal
mail, and even through instant messaging with clients and their pets in
countries all over the world. That’s because a pet and I don’t have to be
physically together in the same place in order to communicate spiritually or
telepathically.
My specialties include:
• veterinary medical intuition
• spiritual and emotional healing
• trauma rehabilitation
• behavior resolution
• death, dying, and euthanasia support
• after-life communications
• reincarnation questions
• counseling for all pet-related issues
• nutrition advice
• and, of course, discovering pets’ needs and wishes, as well as their likes
and dislikes
In my own practice, once I’m able to pinpoint the cause of a pet’s
problem(s), I can then use spiritual healing modalities to help speed up the
recovery process. I can also offer suggestions to my human clients about
how to make improvements in pet nutrition, and how to effectively use
flower essences, herbs, essential oils, homeopathy, chiropractic, and other
energy-improving therapies that might help a pet recover more quickly.
But why is the kind of work that I, and other animal communicators, do so
important? And why would you and your pet need a consultation?
Whenever pets are able to effectively communicate their ordinary needs and
have them met, they can lead much happier and more fulfilled lives. And
when they’re faced with health or behavioral challenges, it’s even more
important for them to be able to communicate their needs to us.
Our pets’ physical and behavioral challenges are almost always the result of
an emotional imbalance. A consultation can be both important and helpful
when it comes to understanding the relationship between what a pet has
experienced or felt, and the physical effects those experiences and feelings
have brought about.

How emotions can affect an animal physically

When a pet is in good health, but then becomes stressed, angry,

depressed, jealous, or traumatized, those emotions move through the
animal’s entire being, where they negatively affect many, or all, of the cells
in the body. It won’t be long before the imbalances created by those
emotions are then expressed in some visible way in the pet’s physical form
as a disease or as a behavioral problem.
 For example, if an animal prefers to be the only pet in a household, but is
confronted with having a new pet living in her home, or she experiences
some other major event that’s not part of her normal routine, she may then
show signs of allergies that cause her to scratch constantly, or she may begin
to bite and chew on her own legs and paws.
An animal who barely escapes being hit by a car can become so
distressed and frightened that, even though she was not physically hurt, her
distress begins to manifest as a physical disease. She may be harboring
emotional pain to the point of developing something like a respiratory
infection. Or she may turn her emotional fright into behavioral problems,
such as wetting inside the house.
If an animal becomes physically ill or develops inappropriate behaviors
after the passing of a human or an animal friend, he or she first needs
emotional healing to help release the grief before the physical disease will go
away, or before the negative behaviors can be corrected.
Many animals who are adopted from Humane Societies and shelters
come into their new homes already highly traumatized. Most of them
develop some form of illness, such as allergies or upper respiratory
infections, or they engage in unacceptable behaviors. These manifestations
are all caused by the abuse they may have suffered, the grief of losing their
original families, or the fright of having had to live in a strange place with
scary sounds and smells, and with no one familiar to comfort them.
I also often see physical expressions of emotional traumas among pets
who were taken away from their mothers earlier than eight weeks of age.
These pets will continue to suck on blankets or pieces of clothing, knead
against people or beds, scratch at surfaces in an attempt to “burrow,” or lick
at people’s faces and mouths continuously (the action of asking to be fed by
their parent).
Animals are particularly impressionable between three weeks and three
months of age, and some may experience serious emotional or mental
traumas during that time. The cause could be a trip to the vet, surgery for
spaying or neutering, painful vaccinations or treatments, being chased by a
large animal, teased by a child, scratched by a cat, bit by a dog, almost hit by
a car, staying at a boarding kennel, being locked in a dark room, or any other
experience that was traumatic for them.
Pets also sometimes take on symptoms of physical or emotional ailments
when they’re trying to mirror their humans. They mistakenly think they can
make their humans feel better if they share the same symptoms, or if they
can take the disease away from them altogether. They want so much to make
their humans feel better, or to be free from pain and discomfort, that at times,
they’re even willing to take that pain and discomfort entirely on themselves.
All of these manifestations of diseases in pets need to be corrected first
at the spiritual, mental, or emotional levels before a complete physical
healing can take place. With the help of an experienced animal
communicator/medical intuitive/spiritual healer, it is possible to heal the
emotions associated with the initial trauma. And when the emotional causes
have been healed, then the physical disease, which was a manifestation of a
pet’s emotional distress, can also be healed.

The importance of treating both physical and emotional

components

Does disease in the physical body create a mental, emotional, or spiritual

state of imbalance, or does an emotional, mental, or spiritual imbalance
create a disease in the physical body?
You’ll find much more detailed information about this question, as well
as information about energy bodies, in the chapter titled “Auras” in Book 1
of this series, For Pet’s Sake, Do Something! How to Communicate with
Your Pets and Help Them Heal.
The point is, we need to heal both the contributing conditions and the
physical problem itself. Treating the whole pet by treating the mental,
emotional, and spiritual components, at the same time we’re using physical
healing methods to treat the symptoms of the disease, results in a much more
complete healing.
If we concentrate only on resolving the physical problem, but not on
healing the cause that brought about that particular physical condition, the
same problem may simply come back again and again, or it might even
manifest as an entirely different disease. When only the symptoms of a
disease are treated, and the cause is ignored, each subsequent occurence may
even become more severe. That’s why physical disease often doesn’t
respond quickly to antibiotics or chemical drugs, and it may also resist other
forms of physical healing as well, as long as the cause persists.
So, to restore a pet to a state of normal health, it’s essential to treat the
mental, emotional, or spiritual cause that originally triggered the physically
manifested disease, or the negative behavior, in the first place.

Pet problems to bring to an animal communicator

We’ve been talking a lot about pets who have physical ailments, but
since you need to help your animals heal at all levels, and to cope with many
aspects of their lives, you can use the assistance of an animal communicator
to help with a broad spectrum of issues. The following list describes some of
the most common ones for which you might want to consult a professional:
• A new home or environment: Changes in a pet’s environment can be
very stressful, especially for cats and older animals. If an animal
communicator gives them helpful information and calm reassurance ahead
of time about an upcoming move or a major change, that information may
help to reduce their fear and anxiety.
• Vacation: Pets often do better when their families are away on vacation if
someone communicates to them ahead of time why their favorite people are
going to be gone and when they’ll be returning. It’s also important for them
to know who’s going to take care of them, and whether they’ll be staying at
home or someplace else during that time. They may not be able to participate
in making decisions about their care, but if they’re at least well informed,
they’ll be better able to accept the decisions their humans need to make for
them, and their stress will be considerably reduced.
• Separation, divorce, children leaving for college, babies arriving:
Changing family dynamics can be a difficult experience for a pet, especially
one who’s been used to sleeping with someone all of her life, or for a pet
who’ll now be hearing a baby crying frequently. Knowing ahead of time
about the changes that will be taking place can help a pet adjust to these new
circumstances more easily.
• Shelter pets: It’s important to let adopted animals know that they now
have a new “forever” home. If animals are foster pets, then they need to
know they’ll be well taken care of by someone who will love them right now
until a “forever” home and family can be found for them. I work with many
pet rescue associations, and this part of the pet population is one of the most
difficult to understand. These pets have usually suffered a lot of trauma, and
they often need a longer time to adjust to their new circumstances. An
animal communicator can make that adjustment much easier for them by
finding out ahead of time if they have any preferences about living with
men, women, or children, or if they prefer to live in a single pet or a multi-
pet household. Placing pets in the right type of environment the first time
will help shorten their transition time and increase their ability to bond with
their new family.
• Health concerns, accidents, and physical traumas: A medical intuitive
can translate to pet parents, veterinarians, or chiropractors what the problem
seems to be, where it hurts, and how bad the pain is. If the medical intuitive
is present during an examination, he or she can also tell a veterinarian or a
chiropractor if something they’re doing is helping or hurting the pet.
• Emotional and Behavioral Issues: Many animals experience fears or
phobias, and sometimes even panic attacks associated with a past memory.
This may cause some serious behavioral issues. If an animal can talk about
what happened, an animal communicator can then reassure her that the
trauma is now past and she doesn’t have to hold onto that fear any longer.
Once an animal understands this, many behavioral issues begin to disappear.
Sometimes, at the beginning of a consultation, an animal is reluctant to talk
about a particular event, or to answer certain questions, but she can usually
be encouraged to do so a little later on after the animal communicator has
sufficiently reassured her how very much her humans want to help her feel
better.
• Doctor visits: Whether it’s for a routine medical exam, drawing blood, or
any type of surgery, animals need to know what’s going to happen to them.
They need to know why they aren’t being fed at the usual time, how long
they’re going to be staying at the hospital, who’s going to be taking care of
them, what will happen during their recuperation, and in some cases, how
their humans will need to limit the pet’s activities for awhile after certain
procedures have been performed. Preparing pets ahead of time for these
events will reduce their stress levels and help them heal more quickly,
especially following any surgical procedures.
• Training: Some animals train for obedience or performance competitions.
Explaining to them ahead of time what’s going to be expected of them when
they’re in the ring, and how they should act, can be beneficial for both the
animal and the trainer. Agility performance can be improved when the
trainer understands what the animal needs, and when the animal understands
what the trainer expects. An animal communicator can help both of them by
clarifying the rules and by identifying a pet’s specific learning style and
special talents, as well as a pet’s fears or concerns, and likes or dislikes.
• Breeders: Sometimes a breeder needs to know if a female is ready to have
a litter or not. Other times the breeder needs to figure out why a female
never seems to be interested in becoming pregnant. Explaining motherhood
and the breeding process to a first-timer can help her be more receptive to
the idea. Educating her ahead of time about what’s expected of her so she
can be a good mom to her pups can also improve her behavior with them,
and even enhance her milk production. After the litter has matured, an
animal communicator can also explain to the pups that they’ll soon need to
leave their canine mother and siblings and go live with, and bring love and
joy to, a human family.
• New friend/old friend: When an animal is going to have a new pet friend
come to live in her home, she needs to be prepared for this change. An
animal should never be forced to be friends with a new pet who comes to
live with the family, but an animal communicator can often help the two pets
learn to accept each other. If a pet is losing a friend because of a household
move or a death, an animal communicator can also help a grieving pet adjust
to the loss.
• End of life: Talking about the end of our pet’s lives, and what they want or
don’t want, isn’t as difficult as you might imagine. Many animals want to
decide when it’s time to leave, and they’ll even tell you clearly if they want
to be helped or not. Having your animals tell you how they feel about
making their transitions is one of the greatest gifts you can receive from
them. Then, listening to a pet’s feelings, and acting on them, is one of the
greatest gifts you can give to your pet in return.
• After life: There may also be times when you want to reconnect with your
pets who have already made their transitions back into Spirit. This should
only be done several weeks after they leave to give them time to adjust to
their new surroundings, but this type of conversation can often be very
comforting, and it may even help to shorten the grieving process for you.
• Reincarnation: Sometimes an animal will want to spend more than one
lifetime with its humans, especially if the animal has more to teach them. Or,
the humans might want to have their animal friend live with them again, as
the same pet soul, but as a different personality. An animal communicator
can talk with a pet who’s in Spirit to find out whether or not he or she is
ready to come back again. Sometimes when former pets aren’t ready, it’s
because they have another purpose to fulfill. In this case, they may even
suggest that another one of their friends in Spirit go instead.
 You can see that the above list covers all of the main mental, emotional,
spiritual, and physical challenges our animals may encounter. By consulting
an animal communicator, and/or medical intuitive, to talk with your pet
about these various challenges, you can more effectively help your pet
maintain a balanced state of body, mind, and spirit.

Finding the right animal communicator to work with your pet

Many years ago, the term “animal communicator” didn’t even exist, and
there were no books about the subject, but today many books are available,
and it’s fairly easy to find a professional to help you communicate with your
pet.
Because it’s important for you to work with the right person, especially
when you’re trying to help your pet heal, I’d like to give you some
guidelines to consider when you’re trying to find someone to work with.
These guidelines include:
• Understanding what animal communicators and medical intuitives can
do
• How much information you should, or shouldn’t, provide ahead of time
• What happens during a consultation

Understanding what animal communicators and medical

intuitives can do

There are two kinds of professionals in the field of animal

communication—those who discovered, at a very young age, that they could
converse with animals, plants, or nature; and those who were always
intuitive but didn’t know it, and didn’t begin to receive information until
after they’d taken courses and received guidance from an experienced
animal communicator. Both can be equally good at this type of work.
All of them use telepathy to communicate with animals. Some receive
visual images or pictures, as I do, while others “hear” answers, or have a
strong sense of knowing.
Some professionals communicate with animals to find out what they’re
thinking or feeling, why they’re behaving as they do, what traumatic events
they experienced in an earlier part of their lives, or to help them with
everyday needs and concerns.
 Others, who are also medical intuitives, have the ability to determine the
deeper cause(s) of a pet’s problems. They can also energetically scan a pet’s
body to try to locate where there may be signs of a current, or an impending,
physical problem. They may even be able to discover, from the pet, how an
injury occurred, or what a veterinarian or a chiropractor can do to help.
Some animal communicators, who are also medical intuitives, have
studied spiritual healing methods as well. These professionals will not only
be able to communicate with your pet about everyday issues, and determine
the cause of a pet’s problems, but they’ll also be able to help your pet heal at
mental, emotional, and spiritual levels, and this in turn will help to speed up
a pet’s physical healing.
As you can see, an animal communicator can help you and your pet with
everyday issues, but when your pet specifically needs healing, you’ll want to
find out, in advance, if the animal communicator you select is also a medical
intuitive.
Providing information
When you have a consultation, many professionals don’t want you to
give them any specific information ahead of time. They want to start with a
clean slate. Others, however, may ask you to fill out an information form
first.
My own preference, especially if I’m not seeing the pet in person, is to
know the pet’s name, age, sex, breed, and location. It’s also a very good idea
for you to make a general statement about the reason you’ve requested a
consultation.
For example, you might say that your pet is having a specific behavioral
or physical problem and you want to try to discover the cause; you’re going
to be moving or going on vacation and want to prepare your pet ahead of
time; or you adopted a new pet and want to better understand his or her
background.
Beyond a general statement, however, I personally don’t want any
further detailed information in advance because I want to know clearly that
whatever I’m discovering is truly coming from the pet I’m talking with, and
that it’s not based on any prior information I may have been given.
No matter who you work with, or what their specific preferences are, you
should still have all of your questions prepared in advance, and in writing, so
you’ll remember to ask everything that’s on your mind at the appropriate
time. Your questions should be stated in as general a way as possible, but not
so general that neither the animal communicator nor the pet has any idea
what you’re really trying to ask.
What happens during a consultation
Every animal communicator has his or her own style so you need to be
prepared to “go with the flow.”
During a consultation, my own preference is to begin by introducing myself
to the pet and reassuring him that you and I are both there because we love
him and want to help him. I then ask the pet if there’s something he needs or
wants to talk about. Sometimes there is, and sometimes there isn’t. After the
pet has had an opportunity to share his thoughts, concerns, needs, wishes,
likes, or dislikes, it’s then time for the the pet parent to ask his or her
questions. The conversation usually develops a momentum of its own and
flows along smoothly.
What all animal communicators do is simply invite animals to participate in
a dialogue with their humans by giving them a voice so they can tell us how
they feel, how the problem started, what helps, what makes things worse,
and what they need or want. We listen so we can understand life from their
viewpoint. Usually, what they want to tell us is very simple and direct.
A professional must simply state the facts as he or she receives them from
the animal. These facts will often clarify things for you, reveal new
information, or validate something you already knew but hadn’t told the
animal communicator.
Since an animal communicator is only a translator, or a bridge of
understanding between a person and a pet, a professional should always put
any personal feelings completely aside and make no judgments about the
information he or she receives.
For example, if an animal says he’s not happy being outdoors because it gets
so cold at night, it’s not up to the animal communicator to lecture the human
about not taking good care of his or her pet. The information from the pet
needs to be communicated to the human as a simple statement of fact. A
professional may then gently offer suggestions that lead to a compromise,
but as a translator and a facilitator, he or she must not stand in judgment.
If an animal says he’s ready to give up on his life and make his transition,
the animal communicator should simply translate that information to the pet
parent. He or she shouldn’t try to convince the animal to stay longer, or try
to convince the human to take action one way or the other. A professional
may, however, gently share thoughts and ideas in the form of guidance that a
pet parent can use to make his or her own decision more easily.
When it comes to animal behavioral issues, bear in mind that animals have
their own way of perceiving things and they can sometimes misunderstand
what a pet parent expects of them. A skilled animal communicator, however,
can provide a clear communication between human and pet that may resolve
even some of the most difficult situations.
Let me caution you, though, that no animal communicator can exercise mind
control over your pets, or tell an animal he or she has to do something.
We can’t tell animals to stop a behavior if we aren’t able to discover the
cause of the behavior because the pet doesn’t want to reveal it, or if the pet
adamantly refuses to stop, but we can clearly tell them what’s expected of
them. We can also present them with alternative ways to behave.
Sometimes, however, the human may need to provide a lifestyle change, diet
change, different training techniques, or even a few more treats. But by
making these changes, the negative behavior can at least be minimized, and
may even be stopped altogether. It’s all about the art of compromise.
Now that you better understand what an animal communicator can do to help
you and your pet, and how a consultation may flow, you may be ready to try
to find the appropriate person to work with. You can do this by looking in
the yellow pages of the phone book or by doing an Internet search.
Because communicating with your pet is a very personal thing, it’s important
to find someone you’re comfortable with. Learning about the person first,
and knowing how he or she works, will put your mind and heart at ease so
you and your pet can both benefit from what you’ll learn from each other.
***
During my years of spiritual study, I discovered animals need to speak
their minds just as much as humans do. But since most humans don’t pay
any attention to their own natural ability to receive pictures from animals,
most pets require an interpreter when they need to talk with their humans.
As an animal communicator, my first desire is to be a voice for animals,
a translator for them, so they can communicate effectively. Pets want to be
heard, and most of all they want to be understood. Using the gift of
communicating with picture telepathy, I can enable a person and a pet to
have a dialog so that a pet can be heard and then better understood.
As a medical intuitive and spiritual healer, my second desire, which is
just as important as the first, is to be a catalyst for helping animals heal when
they’re sick. The healing I’m able to offer them can be spiritual, mental,
and/or emotional. Once they’ve received this kind of healing, their physical
ailments usually begin to disappear almost on their own, or with much less
need for veterinary intervention.
As you’ve learned in several chapters, disease doesn’t start in the
physical body. It starts with an imbalance in one, or more, of a pet’s faster
vibrating energy bodies—the spiritual, mental, emotional, or etheric bodies.
Discovering and identifying those imbalances is the key to recovery.
Correcting them can then put a pet back on the road to good health. That’s
what I, and many other experienced animal communicator/medical
intuitives, can effectively do for you and your pets.
***
In this chapter, there are several concepts I’ve only been able to touch on
very briefly, but some may have piqued your curiosity to know more.
You might enjoy reading Chapters 5 and 12 in my second book, Pet’s Have
Feelings, Too! to learn more about “Physical Healing” and “Pets as
Doctors.” The stories of Xanto, Vicki, Buddha, and several other pets all had
happy endings because the animals themselves were able to share important
information about their serious conditions with an animal communicator.
Veterinarians and chiropractors, who were often puzzled about what to do
beforehand, were then able to administer effective treatments based on that
information.
If you’re interested in the topic of Reincarnation, you’ll find more
information about that subject in Chapter 14 of the same book.
And if you’d like to learn more about the art of listening to your own pets
and communicating with them directly yourselves, you’ll no doubt enjoy
Chapters 1, 2, 3 and 4 in the first book of this series, For Pet’s Sake, Do
Something! How to Communicate with Your Pets and Help Them Heal.
18: Acupuncture—An Overview
C
an you imagine this scenario: animals lying still, or even falling asleep,
with fine needles placed at strategic points on their bodies? It’s happening in
veterinary clinics all over the United States these days, and some of the
results are simply amazing! Consider the following examples.
• Twelve-year-old Brandy, who’d been unable to rise to her feet, now
rushes to the door to greet her veterinary acupuncturist.
• Eighty-pound Oscar, diagnosed with lumbo-sacral disease, had to be
carried up and down stairs and was facing six weeks of cage confinement if
his owner followed a traditional course of treatment. After undergoing
acupuncture treatments instead, he was once again running and jumping up
and down those same stairs and needing only an occasional maintenance
treatment.
• Love Bug, a male toy poodle who sustained a back injury, was facing
either a $2,500 surgery or being put to sleep. After a series of 20-minute
acupuncture treatments, he was walking almost as well as he did before the
injury.
• A horse with a pus-filled brain lesion was given a bleak prognosis because
the infection wasn’t responding to antibiotics. After five months and six
acupuncture treatments, plus a Chinese herbal formula and more antibiotics,
the horse fully recovered. His gait returned to normal, and his owner was
able to make plans to show him in competition again.
These are only a few of the success stories I discovered during my research
that clearly show the benefits of acupuncture for animals. But how long has
this form of therapy been in use, and what makes it work so well? In this
chapter, we’ll first take a quick look at acupuncture’s history, and then we’ll
look at why it’s so effectively able to restore balance and harmony within the
body.

An interesting history

The healing art of acupuncture can be documented back at least two

thousand years in China. Oral histories indicate it may even have been
practiced there for well over four thousand years. Although several other
countries have each developed their own acupuncture modalities, in these
chapters we’ll be talking primarily about the form of acupuncture used in
Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM).
In Chinese history, acupuncture appears to have been used on animals
nearly as long as it’s been used on humans. According to extensive
documentation, government veterinarians were treating livestock in the
Chow Dynasty as long ago as 2303 B.C. Since then, animal acupuncture has
been practiced continuously in China. Horses, camels, swine, and even
elephants were among the earliest species of animals to be treated.
Until some time in the twentieth century, however, Western Civilization
was generally uninformed about acupuncture and its incredible ability to
promote, maintain, and even restore good health. However, after people in
Western culture began to use this valuable form of therapy for themselves,
they also began using it to treat their animals.
In the United States, much of the pioneering work in animal acupuncture
was done by some members of the National Association of Veterinary
Acupuncture (NAVA). This organization was sponsored by the UCLA Pain
Clinic in California. Since 1974, another association, the International
Veterinary Acupuncture Society (IVAS), has been setting the standards,
practices, and certification requirements for veterinary acupuncture in many
countries.
Today in the United States, more than twenty colleges and universities
include acupuncture in their curricula. Graduates who complete the
certification requirements are increasingly being employed as specialists
who can deliver acupuncture care and treatment under the direction of a
licensed veterinarian.
Even though acupuncture has proven itself to be successful throughout a
very long history, there are still many people today who consider this
modality to be a new, or even radical, form of treatment, one that would
almost always be selected as a second choice only after trying more familiar
Western methods of treating illness.
Yet, it’s true that Complementary and Alternative Medicine (CAM),
including acupuncture, has become the fastest growing medical field in the
United States for both humans and animals, and many people are now
choosing to try acupuncture as a first choice, both for themselves and for
their pets.
 Some veterinarians have become certified acupuncturists themselves,
while others refer cases to a certified veterinary acupuncturist with whom
they work closely. But most of those who employ acupuncture use it as an
integral part of their practices—both traditional and holistic—and they
commonly use acupuncture not only with small animals (dogs and cats), but
also with horses, ponies, donkeys, goats, cattle, sheep, poultry, llamas,
alpacas, rabbits, ferrets, guinea pigs, and birds of many types.

Why acupuncture works— two different perspectives

The Oriental view

Health, as defined in the Chinese system, refers to a condition of balance
and harmony among body, mind, and spirit.
The Chinese believe that everything is energetically connected. They also
believe that all of the connections have an innate balance between and
among them; for instance, the day is balanced with night, hot with cold, male
with female, Yin with Yang.
The fundamental theory of Yin and Yang says that life takes place in an
alternating rhythm. This concept is beautifully illustrated in an excerpt from
the Huang Di Nei Jing, or “The Yellow Emperor’s Canon of Internal
Medicine,” the best known and probably the earliest Chinese medical text:
Day gives way to night, night to day; a time of light and activity (Yang) is
followed by darkness and rest (Yin). Flowers open and close, the moon
waxes and wanes, the tides come in and go out; we wake and sleep, breathe
in, breathe out. Yin/Yang is a constant, continual flow through which
everything is expressed on the one hand and recharged on the other. They
are an inseparable couple. Their proper relationship is health; a disturbance
in this relationship is disease.
Traditional Chinese Medicine is based on an orderly system or network
of fourteen major meridians that exist in predictable locations throughout the
body. These meridians also connect and communicate with specific organs
of the body.
Balance is maintained through the flow of energy between, and within,
these meridians. This life-sustaining vital force or energy, called Ch’i, flows
through all living things. It nourishes, warms, uplifts, and is the basis for all
life functions. It circulates continuously throughout the meridian system. In
order to maintain a state of wellness, it’s essential that Ch’i energy flows in a
smooth, harmonious, and unobstructed manner.
When there’s an imbalance in the flow of Ch’i anywhere within the
meridian system, that’s when illness begins to manifest itself. Most physical
and mental illnesses and body malfunctions are either caused by, or
accompanied by, disturbances within this flow and balance. But the good
news is, these disorders can be positively influenced by treating the
appropriate acupuncture points.
Most acupuncture points are located at specific places on the skin where
a meridian comes close to the surface of the body, though there are some
points that are found at deeper levels. The ones near the surface are about the
size of a pea, while the deeper ones are about the size of a penny.
Acupuncture points also seem to have a higher electrical conductivity
compared with other points on the surrounding skin.
The acupuncture needle acts, in effect, like an opener and closer of doors
or gates. When the needle is inserted, it pushes or pulls energy from one
pathway to another.
Humans are generally considered to have 365 classical acupuncture
points associated with the major meridians. Domestic animals have
acupuncture points that correlate closely with those in humans, though not
exactly. Although most of these points are used in modern veterinary
acupuncture, it’s interesting to note that some domestic animals also have
points not found in people.
The Western perspective
While Traditional Chinese Medicine probably provides the most
complete and holistic explanation for how acupuncture works, scientific
investigations have also given us some important insights about how
acupuncture provides its benefits. These investigations have led to the
development of several theories. We’ll look briefly at only three of them
here.
Humeral Theory
The humeral theory suggests that acupuncture releases specific chemical
substances into the blood and other fluids in the body.
For example, it’s known that some acupuncture points, when stimulated,
release potent morphine-like substances called endorphins, which can
alleviate pain.
Acupuncture is also capable of stimulating the immune system, causing
increased production of antibodies. White blood cells are not only released
in greater numbers, but they also seem to function more efficiently in
combating microbial infections.
In addition, acupuncture can be effective for treating many allergic-like
reactions, as well as for treating harmful inflammatory reactions such as
autoimmune diseases and fever.
There’s strong evidence that all of these things happen because humeral
substances are released during acupuncture treatment. Other humeral
substances that may be released include neurotransmitters such as serotonin
and epinephrine, and hormones such as cortisol and thyroxin.
Bioelectric Theory
The bioelectric theory suggests that biological processes are coordinated and
regulated based on principles of physics rather than on principles of
chemistry. This concept recognizes that electric-like energy fields exist in
and around all animal bodies and, more particularly, around each cell.
In addition, these electric fields are associated with a network of circuits
that continuously conduct tiny amounts of direct current throughout the
body. This current is conducted, not by the nerves themselves, but by
perineural cells located around the nerve fibers. Unlike nerve cells, the
perineural cells conduct current by a process known as semi-conduction,
which is somewhat slower than ordinary motor or sensory nerve impulses.
The bioelectric current of the perineural cells initiates, coordinates, and
regulates many bodily functions by responding to minute electromagnetic
forces and functions. It can also be influenced by external electromagnetic
fields.
In this context, the meridians serve as conductors, the Ch’i is comparable
to bioelectricity, and acupuncture points are like amplifiers. According to
this theory, acupuncture needles electrically affect the body in a beneficial
way, helping it to return to a balanced condition in which it can then resume
regulating itself in a normal manner.
Neurophysiologic Theory
The neurophysiologic theory is based on the assumption that there’s a
physical relationship between acupuncture points and peripheral nerves. It’s
well known that there are a greater number of neuroreceptors (nerve endings
that transmit information such as pain, heat, or pressure) at or near most
acupuncture sites.
 In addition, most acupuncture points have a close physical relationship to
peripheral nerves. For example, acupuncture points are often located where
nerves attach to major muscles, bones, tendons, or blood vessels.
A properly placed acupuncture needle, therefore, communicates directly
with a specific neuroreceptor, which in turn sends a specific message
through the body’s autonomic nervous system. This neurologic message is
responsible for influencing the mechanisms that ordinarily regulate and
control an animal’s physiology.
In this theory, knowing which acupuncture point to treat is like knowing
which neurological switches to turn on or off in the animal’s nervous system
to inhibit pain, suppress the cough reflex, stimulate bone healing, increase
cardiac output, and so on.
It’s important to recognize, however, that so far no single modern theory
can, by itself, explain all of the phenomena associated with acupuncture
healing, but while the oriental explanation provides us with a much more
holistic view, each of these scientific theories also has some merit.
***
Now that you know something about the history of acupuncture, and
understand a little bit about the theories that help to explain why it works so
well, in the next chapter it’s time to get practical about what acupuncture can
do for your pets.
19: Acupuncture— Practical Information

N
o matter what theory may best seem to explain how acupuncture works,
Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine (TCVM) is used to treat a wide
variety of conditions in animals today, including:
• Chronic arthritis conditions
• Back, hip, neck, and shoulder pain
• Disc disease and slipped discs
• Dry eye
• Ear problems including some conditions of deafness
• Endocrine disorders including thyroid dysfunction
• Fertility problems
• Fracture healing
• Gastrointestinal disorders such as vomiting, diarrhea, and constipation
• Heart disease
• Hip dysplasia
• Immune system disorders
• Inflammatory bowel disease
• Kidney disease and failure
• Lameness
• Limping
• Liver disease
• Lumbo-sacral problems
• Muscle, tendon, and bone injuries (often in conjunction with Western
modalities)
• Nausea in cancer patients to improve appetite and boost the immune
system
• Obesity
• Pain relief for many conditions
• Pre- and post-operative pain management
• Respiratory disorders: upper respiratory infections, chronic bronchitis, and
asthma
• Seizures
• Separation anxiety
• Sinusitis
• Skin conditions
• Spinal cord traumas including paresis (weakness) and paralysis
• Stroke (canine stroke)
• Surgical anesthesia
• Urinary or fecal incontinence and/or retention
Animals experience many benefits from being treated with acupuncture,
not only for the physical conditions listed above, but also for other physical
problems and emotional distress as well. We’ll touch on some of those other
conditions and illnesses in the next two sections below.
But both professionals and pet parents agree that, among it’s many benefits,
acupuncture for animals can:
• relieve pain (by releasing endorphins—the morphine-like chemicals,
which are the body’s natural pain-killers and anti-stress messengers)
• stimulate the body’s own healing and defense mechanisms
• offer an alternative to pharmaceutical medications, in order to avoid drug
side-effects
• offer hope of recovery when drugs, traditional medicine, or surgery may
have failed
Not only that, but it’s well-tolerated and even enjoyed by most animal
patients.

Body systems that respond favorably to acupuncture treatment

We can also look at various systems of the body that can benefit from
acupuncture treatments. These include:
Musculoskeletal
This is the body system that’s most commonly treated with acupuncture in
Western medical practice. Some veterinarians limit themselves to using
acupuncture only for the treatment of arthritic disorders, muscular injuries,
and hip dysplasia, but it’s a good idea to look for someone who also uses it
for the many other conditions and illnesses for which it’s also known to be
beneficial.
Gastrointestinal
Acupuncture can help relieve constipation, particularly in cats. It can also
relieve diarrhea, vomiting, excessive drooling, irritable bowel syndrome, and
symptoms of pancreatitis. It’s also helpful to use for animals with decreased
or increased appetites.
Neurological/Psychological
Anxiety, epilepsy, and behavioral disorders have all responded well to
acupuncture treatments.
Hormonal
Almost all of the hormonal systems can be positively affected, including
pituitary function, thyroid and parathyroid functions, and adrenal function.
It’s also possible to normalize blood sugar levels using acupuncture
techniques.
Dermatological
The skin can often tell us if a pet is getting proper nutrition and if food and
other nutrients are being properly processed. If an acupuncturist can keep the
digestive, respiratory, and elimination systems, as well as other bodily
systems and organs in good condition, this healthy state will then be
reflected in the condition of the skin.
Gynecological
A number of female reproductive conditions in both small and large animals
are acknowledged to respond to acupuncture treatment. By their diagnostic
names, these include anestrus (failing to go into heat at normal times),
metritis (inflammation of the uterus), dystocia (abnormal or difficult birth),
retained placenta, agalactia (failure to produce milk), mastitis (inflammation
of the mammary gland), and mesalliance (an undesirable breeding
combination).
Male reproductive system
In the male reproductive system, conditions such as impotence, orchitis
(inflammation of one or both testicles), epididymitis (inflammation of the
epididymis, the structure around each testicle), and libido can also be
successfully treated.

Other effective uses for acupuncture

Immune system support—long-term

Acupuncture should also be considered for long-term support of the immune

system. This includes:
 • Lyme disease
• endocrine problems
• kidney disease
• seizure disorders
• recovery from surgery
• ameliorating the side effects of chemotherapy
General health and well-being
Acupuncture has been shown to:
• produce an increased sense of well being
• relieve depression
• lower a heart rate that’s too high
• lower high blood pressure
• raise low blood pressure
• increase blood flow
• decrease inflammation
• reduce hair or fur loss and improve hair growth
• improve the luster of the coat and the eyes
• relieve lick granulomas and hot spots
• facilitate reproductive health for breeding animals
• promote the vigor and attention of show quality animals
• improve the overall quality of life for senior and geriatric animals
• correct the cause(s) of some behavioral problems

Diagnosing

In order for your veterinarian to diagnose your pet’s need for

acupuncture treatments, it’s important that he or she thoroughly understands
the body’s meridian systems and the relationship of those meridians to the
corresponding condition or illness.
If your veterinarian is also a veterinary acupuncturist, he or she will
already have arrived at a Western medical diagnosis, but will now perform a
different kind of assessment by using a systematic process of observing,
touching, and listening to the animal’s body and responses.
If a veterinary acupuncturist is not a veterinarian, he or she will perform
the same kind of specialized assessment, but will also obtain the pet’s history
from the pet owner, and review the pet’s veterinary medical records as well.
 This comprehensive process of assessment leads to a firm diagnosis
expressed in energetic terms. It also enables the practitioner to develop an
effective plan of treatment.
In the energetic sense, you may hear the diagnosis expressed in terms of
any excesses or deficiencies that are affecting the animal. A single
acupuncture point—or more often a group of points—relating to the
diagnosed energetic condition will then be used to correct a patient’s specific
energetic excesses and/or deficiencies.
The desired outcome is to once again allow the Ch’i energy to flow
smoothly, and without interruption, throughout the entire body. When this
flow is restored, then the body should once again be able to govern and
regulate itself so it can return to a normal state of balance and harmony. The
patient, in effect, heals himself, not because symptoms are only temporarily
relieved or suppressed, but because what was fundamentally wrong has now
been corrected.

Pet owners commonly ask . . .

Which animals respond best to acupuncture treatments?

Dogs not only welcome acupuncture treatments, they can sleep their way
right through them for a long period of time. Cats are very philosophical
and, if they sense a treatment is going to be beneficial, they’ll accept it very
readily. One cat patient was even observed eating while the facial needles
clanged against the feeding dish. Horses also generally enjoy acupuncture,
especially if they have back problems. But veterinarians may also use
acupuncture to treat a wide variety of other animals, both large and small.
No matter what the species, attention to diet, lifestyle, and any potential
obstacles to recovery are necessary ingredients in virtually all treatment
plans. There may even be times when a full chiropractic assessment, along
with any necessary chiropractic adjustments, needs to be added to the plan of
care before acupuncture treatments will be successful.
How does an acupuncturist know where to put the needles?
During the assessment, when the acupuncturist is touching various
pressure points on the animal’s body, he or she may detect certain places that
are more tender than others. This tenderness will identify some of the points
that require needles, but based on the overall diagnosis, the acupuncturist
will also follow some well-designed patterns when it comes to placing the
needles. These patterns are known to bring about the desired changes.
Is acupuncture painful?
For most animals, the insertion of the very thin acupuncture needles is
virtually painless. The needles are very fine and flexible, and they’re usually
put in place with a very quick motion.
If an acupuncture point is in need of stimulation, that point is usually
tender to the touch, and an acupuncture needle, placed in the correct
position, will easily penetrate the tissues without pain. A point that doesn’t
need stimulating often resists the entry of an acupuncture needle.
There may be a slight to noticeable sensation when the needle is first
inserted if there’s a major blockage at that particular point. If there is any
sensation, it may be something like tingling, numbness, or cramping, similar
to what humans experience, but once the needles are in place, most animals
are unaware of them and remain very relaxed.
What kinds of needles are used?
The needles used for acupuncture treatment on small animals are much
thinner than even the finest hypodermic needles. Sometimes, they’re
described as being thin as a hair. They’re usually made from stainless steel,
although gold, silver, or copper may be used depending on what effect is
required—stimulating or suppressing. The “handle” may be made of copper
or plastic and it prevents the needle from “getting lost.” For larger animals,
some of the needles used may need to be larger or longer in order to be
effective since some acupuncture points are not as close to the surface of the
body as they are on smaller animals. Most veterinary acupuncturists use a
disposable type of needle.
How are acupuncture needles removed?
Needles are usually removed with one quick motion, and normally there
isn’t any sensation. Some needles will almost work their own way back up to
the surface of the skin during a treatment if that particular point no longer
needs the stimulation that was being provided by the needle. When needles
loosen in the skin, it’s a good sign that a positive response has taken place in
the body.
Is acupuncture safe?
Acupuncture is one of the safest therapies available when it’s performed
by a competent acupuncturist. No drugs or chemicals that could cause side
effects are used. The whole purpose of acupuncture is to create balance, so
complications rarely, if ever, develop. However, an animal might seem to be
worse for a couple of days, or seem much more lethargic for about 24 hours
after a treatment. This is actually an indication that some physiological
changes are taking place, and the animal’s condition should improve shortly.
How long do acupuncture treatments last and how often are they given?
Treatments may last anywhere from several seconds to as long as 30
minutes, depending on the needs of the patient. A positive response may be
seen after the first, second, or third treatment.
An acute problem may require treatment once or twice a week, while a
chronic condition, such as arthritis, may require multiple treatments to obtain
a maximum response. Once a pet experiences positive effects, treatments for
chronic conditions may then be required only several times per year on a
maintenance basis.
Horses typically respond well after the first treatment, and a second
treatment may be all that’s needed to provide the maximum benefit for them.
Horses with joint arthritis, however, may need several treatments during the
year to relieve their pain.
Some practitioners feel that, if positive results aren’t seen after three
treatments, acupuncture may not be the appropriate modality to use.
However, the apparent failure of acupuncture treatments may actually be
because normal nerve function has been disrupted by a misalignment in the
body, and by the muscle spasms that result from that misalignment. For this
reason, it’s sometimes very important to use chiropractic adjustments first,
before the acupuncture treatments will work. This isn’t a new idea. The
ancient Chinese were using spinal manipulation as long ago as 2700 B.C.
What actually happens during a treatment?
During an acupuncture treatment, needles stimulate blocked energy to
get it moving again, or they draw energy to various places in the body that
need it. This causes an animal’s whole energy system to rebalance itself so
the body can then effectively do its own healing work. An animal may
simply lie quietly during a treatment, become a little drowsy, or even fall
into a peaceful sleep until the needles are removed. The actual shifts in an
animal’s energy level, and any change in the animal’s symptoms, may be
seen during the treatment itself, or only some time afterward, possibly the
next day.
What if my pet seems to resist a treatment?
 An animal may seem agitated when arriving for a first acupuncture
appointment just because it means going to the vet’s office, meeting another
new person in a white coat, or because he or she is picking up on your own
uncertainty or fear.
If a pet seems particularly agitated when initially coming in for a
treatment, the acupuncturist can first use a needle on a relaxation point to
calm the pet before inserting needles elsewhere on the body to treat the main
complaint.
Usually, after discovering during the first appointment just how relaxing
an acupuncture treatment is, a pet will eagerly look forward to any followup
appointments. However, since every pet is an individual, there will always
be some who just don’t want to deal with the needles. In this case,
acupressure, or even possibly laser therapy (both discussed in the next
chapter), may be beneficial.
Will my pet still need to see his or her veterinarian and continue taking
medications?
It’s essential that you continue to work with your veterinarian and have
your pet take any prescribed medications, even while he or she is receiving
acupuncture treatments. As your pet begins to improve, your veterinarian
may need to make new decisions about reducing medication dosages, or
hopefully eliminating some medications altogether.
***
As you’ve now learned, veterinary acupuncture treatments can produce
some highly beneficial effects, and they can be used to treat a very wide
variety of ailments that often beset our pets.
While many conditions and illnesses must still be treated with drugs
and/or surgery, the use of acupuncture in conjunction with these other
methods can immeasurably improve your pet’s chances for a rapid and
complete recovery.
In the next chapter, we’ll look at several beneficial modalities that can be
used in conjunction with acupuncture, and we’ll also review some
alternative methods that don’t use needles at all.
20: Acupuncture— Other Modalities and
Alternatives
I
n addition to the use of needles to stimulate acupuncture points, a
veterinary acupuncturist may also employ several other commonly used
techniques. Some that may be used, depending on a patient’s needs, include:
• Moxibustion—the use of a heated herb, with or without needles, that
warms the body surface, even though it doesn’t make direct contact with the
body
• Gold Beads—the implantation of tiny sterile gold beads to stimulate an
acupuncture point for a continuous period of time
• Aquapuncture—an injection of a sterile fluid or saline-diluted vitamin
B12 into an acupuncture point that allows prolonged stimulation of the point
without the needle having to stay in place
• Electroacupuncture—electrical stimulation between points to enhance the
effect, especially when treating musculoskeletal and spinal problems
• Hemoacupuncture—allowing a few drops of blood to be released from a
point when there’s excess heat in the body
• Auricular Therapy—the treatment of acupuncture points located on the
ears
• Chinese Herbal Remedies—often used to enhance and sustain the effects
of acupuncture between treatments
There are also two methods for stimulating acupuncture points without using
any needles at all. These include:
• Laserpuncture—an infrared laser, used in place of needles, to stimulate
the acupuncture points; it’s been demonstrated to be painless and effective;
and
• Acupressure—the simple use of manual pressure on an acupuncture point
instead of using a needle.
In this chapter, we’ll take a brief look at each of these various techniques.
Moxibustion
While acupuncture needles move energy around within the entire body,
moxibustion (the burning of a moxa stick) supplies an application of heat
energy to specific points, although the heat source doesn’t actually touch the
body directly.
 In Western civilization, acupuncture usually refers to treatment using
only needles, but both the Chinese and the Japanese terms for acupuncture
imply the meaning of “needle-moxa.” That’s because in the original concept,
a treatment consisted of using not only needles (or some kind of a sharp
instrument in very early days), but also an application of heat using a moxa
stick.
What is moxa? It’s a substance that comes from the fibers inside the
leaves of the mugwort plant. It smoulders when it’s ignited rather than
burning with a flame, and it holds its shape because the ashes tend to tighten
up instead of falling apart. The English word “moxa” is an approximation
for the word “mogusha,” which is the Japanese name for the mugwort plant.
The purpose of moxibustion is to replenish lost body heat. It counteracts
the effects of “cold” and “dampness” on the body, and it serves to replenish
and revitalise a body that’s been weakened or depleted.
As it burns, a moxa stick gives off heat and can be held close to the
various acupuncture needles so that the heat enhances the therapeutic effect
of the needles. Moxa can also be used without the use of acupuncture
needles because often there’s benefit to be had from the effects of using heat
alone at specific points.
In animals, because they have hair or fur, the use of this technique is
somewhat restricted compared to its use for humans. Moxa also needs to be
used in a very well ventilated area so the smoke won’t irritate an animal’s
eyes. And in a barn area, extra caution needs to be used around straw or
other flammable bedding material.
Despite these important considerations, the technique is usually well
accepted by animals and should certainly be considered whenever heat
treatment is indicated.
Gold bead therapy
In some circumstances, very small sterile gold beads are surgically
implanted in the precise site of certain acupuncture points. Each point
receives three to five beads delivered with a special needle that doesn’t cut
the skin. The number of beads depends on the size of the patient and the
degree of the patient’s pain.
The beads provide stimulation for a continuous period of time, whereas
an acupuncture treatment provides stimulation only for the duration of that
treatment. Where the beads are placed depends on the condition that needs to
be treated and on the animal’s overall energy throughout the body.
 The beads need to be placed within 1/16 of an inch of the corresponding
acupuncture point or they won’t have the desired effect. These implants are
performed under general anesthesia after the patient has been clipped and the
area surgically scrubbed and prepared. Since the skin isn’t cut in the process,
no sutures are required.
Gold beading is sometimes used for animals who won’t remain still
during repeated acupuncture or acupressure sessions. This type of implant
has proven beneficial for both dogs and cats, especially those who suffer
from hip dysplasia or seizures.
Additionally, it’s believed that gold beads send out some kind of positive
electrical charge that neutralizes the negative electrical charge generated by
certain body conditions or diseases. Interestingly, silver beads don’t seem to
have the same kind of effect on body tissues that gold beads do.
Gold beading can also be an important treatment modality for seizure
control, especially because there aren’t many other effective options
available. From a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) point of view,
seizures can be caused by an excess condition that has been shown to
respond well to gold bead implants.
However, the success of the treatment often depends on two factors: how
young the animal is, and how soon treatment is started after the diagnosis is
made. If the implantation is done as soon as possible after a specific
diagnosis has been reached, and if the animal is younger, the success rate
will be better. Age does make a difference.
How successful has this form of therapy proven to be? Research has
shown that 60% of epileptic pets are cured. They no longer have seizures
and they no longer need to take Phenobarbital. Those animals who are taking
potassium bromide (KBr), however, will usually have to continue its use.
Another 20% of treated pets will no longer have seizures, but they’ll still be
required to take Phenobarbital, at least at a reduced dose. The final 20% will
continue to have seizures, though in some cases they’ll be fewer and less
severe. Unfortunately, there are some cases where even gold beading won’t
help a pet who has seizures, but given the percentages of success, it may be a
procedure that’s well worth trying.
Other conditions that may be helped by using gold beading include:
• Allergic dermatitis
• Arthritis
• Asthma
• Fecal incontinence
• Hip dysplasia
• Intervertebral disc disease
• Lick granulomas
• Long term injuries
• Non-healing fractures
• Sensory eurodermatitis
• Some types of paralysis
• Spondyloarthritis
• Surgical analgesia
• Traumatic nerve injury
• Urinary incontinence
People have sometimes reported bleeding at the locations where the gold
beads were implanted in a pet. This is actually a good sign. When bleeding
occurs where the beads were implanted, this means that, in terms of TCM,
the excess heat is being released. It’s a good indication that implants were
most likely needed in that area of the body.
Aquapuncture
Aquapuncture is a variation on acupuncture in which small amounts of a
sterile liquid are injected into the main acupuncture points. The liquids used
in this technique may be sterile water or a homeopathic solution. Vitamin
B12 may also be injected when a period of prolonged stimulation is
required.
Some veterinarians have found the effects of aquapuncture last longer
than the effects of the insertion of needles because aquapuncture provides
sustained pressure in the area of each acupuncture point that’s been treated.
This modality also takes less time to administer than is required for an
acupuncture treatment.
Electroacupuncture
EAV (Electroacupuncture According to Voll) was developed by
Rhinehart Voll, a German physician. He discovered that the electrical
properties of acupuncture points appear to change in rather predictable ways
when various disease conditions are present in the body.
He measured the electrical resistance of the skin over various
acupuncture points and found he could obtain several useful kinds of
information about a patient’s energetic dysfunction. He could actually
qualify, quantify, and localize the patient’s problems in each individual
meridian this way.
EAV is also useful in another way. It can help identify specific
substances that may be interfering with, or supporting, the body’s effort to
restore balance. These substances may be environmental, medicinal, or
nutritional. In this application, a veterinarian can use EAV measurements to
“ask” an animal’s body which substances it will accept to help it regain its
health, and which substances it should avoid.
Auricular therapy
Auricular therapy was originally developed in 1957 by Dr. Paul Nogier, a
French neurologist. He established a “map” of the human ear, based on the
concept of an inverted fetus, with the head at the earlobe and the feet at the
top of the ear. This map involves an extensive pattern of acupoints, located
on both human and animal ears, and these points can be stimulated to relieve
pain and correct many disorders. Stimulation can be done using small
conventional needles, electric probes, or fingers as is done in Ear
Reflexology.
Auricular therapy is particularly beneficial for deep-rooted or obscure
conditions, possibly because of the profound relaxation that occurs, allowing
the animal’s body to then do it’s own healing work. While it’s more difficult
to use than acupuncture, the results can sometimes be very impressive. It’s
often used, instead of drugs, to improve the performance of racehorses,
working dogs, and other pets. In cattle, disorders of the rumen, small
intestines, liver, uterus, ovaries, and udder have also been diagnosed and
then treated by using a series of auricular points.
Chinese herbal remedies
Many veterinary acupuncturists also find it effective to use herbs to
enhance and sustain the effects of acupuncture between treatments. The
beauty of using herbal formulas, of course, is that there can be continuous
rebalancing of the energy flow because the herbs can be working in the body
all the time just by consuming another dose.
When the right herbs are used to help keep the patient’s body in proper
energetic balance, fewer acupuncture treatments may even be required. This
may also be helpful so the same points don’t become “worn out” from
toofrequent use for those animals who need to be treated for chronic
conditions.
 Herbal remedies must be selected very carefully, however. That’s
because one formula may be required to help relieve an excess condition,
while an entirely different formula would be required to relieve a deficient
condition. Using the wrong herbal formula could cause an undesired
outcome, but using a formula, selected by a professional who has the right
training and expertise, can be very beneficial in conjunction with
acupuncture treatments.
While herbal remedies need to be carefully selected based on the
condition of excess or deficiency being treated, the same precaution isn’t
required when it comes to selecting acupuncture points. It’s unlikely for an
acupuncture treatment to have any detrimental outcome since many
acupuncture points can be used to help relieve both excess and deficient
conditions. This makes acupuncture a very safe form of treatment to use.
Laser therapy
Some veterinarians are now practicing acupuncture using Helium-Neon
lasers instead of needles. It’s useful for animals who just won’t stay still long
enough for the traditional type of acupuncture or acupressure treatment, and
it avoids even any slight discomfort an animal might feel if there’s a
blockage at the point where a needle would ordinarily be inserted. This form
of treatment can also be very effective, and it’s been shown to be safe for
tissues.
Acupressure
While it’s often used in conjunction with acupuncture, acupressure can
also be used instead of acupuncture to obtain some of the same benefits. It’s
a good alternative for those animals who don’t seem to tolerate traditional
acupuncture treatments.
Acupressure is based on the same meridians, but instead of using
needles, acupressure is applied with a gentle, firm pressure of the fingers.
The technique is non-invasive and there are no side effects, so it makes
acupressure a very safe modality to use anytime, anywhere.
Unlike acupuncture, which—in the United States—may only be
administered by someone who’s licensed, anyone may give an acupressure
treatment. Using a chart or a manual to first identify the correct points to use,
you can effectively learn to apply this form of therapy whenever your pet
needs it.
Specifically, acupressure involves applying pressure where there are
depressions between the bone and the muscle, or between different muscles
in your pet’s body. These are called acupressure “points,” and they’re
directly related to the same points used by acupuncturists. As with
acupuncture, the pressure on these key points on the surface of the skin
stimulates the body’s natural self-healing abilities.
In an animal’s body, there are a dozen major meridians that correspond to
certain major organs, specifically, the:
• Lung
• Stomach
• Heart
• Large Intestine
• Small Intestine
• Spleen
• Bladder
• Gall Bladder
• Kidney
• Liver
• Triple Warmer (solar plexus area)
• Pericardium (area surrounding the heart)
Along each meridian are acupressure points, or acupoints, corresponding to
various related acupuncture points. They’re known as the:
• Accumulation point
• Alarm point
• Association point
• Command point
• Connecting point
• Influential point
• Master point
• Sedation point
• Source point
• Ting point
• Tonification point
Most acupoints are located on an area of the body’s surface that has
many nerve endings, but, interestingly enough, a point’s location may not be
anywhere near the organ or body system to which it relates.
These points are usually identified with a letter and a number. For
example, S3 would be the third point on the Spleen meridian while SI3
would be the third point on the Small Intestine meridian. You can find books
and charts available that show where these different points are located on
dogs, cats, and horses.
It’s thought that stimulating acupressure points releases endorphins that,
in turn, relieve pain or promote relaxation. When the pain is blocked, the
flow of blood and oxygen is increased. This causes the muscles to relax
naturally, thus facilitating healing.
Dogs, cats, and horses of all ages are good candidates for acupressure
sessions, but those who engage in athletic activities may find them
particularly beneficial. Senior pets can also find relief from arthritis
symptoms, gastro-intestinal issues, metabolic conditions, and some of the
other health challenges older animals experience.
If you’re going to give your pet a treatment, you first need to identify the
correct point, or points, that need work. If a location on the body is likely to
benefit from acupressure, the animal will respond by showing a slight pain
response when you press on the related acupressure point.
When you find a tender point, you can massage it gently for one to ten
minutes, remaining aware of any changes in the animal’s response while
you’re working. This technique can be used as often as desired to provide
relief.
Begin by applying a steady, firm, rotating pressure with your fingertips
to the area you need to work on. When you want the area to relax, gently
massage counterclockwise over that point. On the other hand, if you want to
stimulate an area and increase its energy, rub the acupressure point in a
clockwise direction.
For instance, if your pet has leg weakness, a clockwise massage on an
appropriate acupressure point will energize and and strengthen the leg. But,
if there’s soreness in an area, rub the appropriate acupressure point in a
counterclockwise direction to relax the muscles, relieve the soreness, and
calm the animal down.
Another example relates to arthritis in the hip. The hip joint is
surrounded by three acupressure points; one is just in front of the hip joint,
one above it, and one behind it. Once you find the proper indentation (the
space between the bones, or the juncture of bone and muscle), simply use
one or two fingers with a gentle, counterclockwise rotation to relax the hip.
As for spinal problems, you’ll find there are small depressions on each
side of the backbone that you can also massage (avoid massaging directly on
the spine itself, however). Again, the various acupressure points affect
specific bodily areas, so you may need to consult a professional practitioner,
or use a comprehensive acupressure chart, to determine the effect of each
acupressure point on the body’s structure or internal organs.
While this book isn’t the place for comprehensive instruction about
acupressure, it’s important to know that certain conditions can be treated or
relieved, or sometimes eliminated altogether, by the appropriate application
of acupressure techniques. In addition to the examples listed above, some
other important uses for acupressure include:
• Front leg paralysis—massage and press between front paw webbing;
• Local pain, paralysis of front limb, constipation, dermatitis, itching and
cough—press the point in the front crease formed by the elbow;
• Emergency and shock—press in the middle of the upper lip or on certain
points on the ear;
• Eye problems—press on the tip of the ear;
• Cervical problems and deafness—press one inch behind the ear;
• Thoracic pain, lumbar pain, urinary problems, kidney dysfunction, and
sexual disorders—press directly opposite the navel on the top of the back,
one inch on either side from the midline of the spine;
• Hip pain—press at the crease formed by the head of the femur and hip
joint;
• Hind leg paralysis, local knee pain, and any other weakness of lower limbs
—press behind the crease formed by flexing the knee;
• For paralysis of hind limbs, to increase appetite, or as a tonic to the entire
system—press one inch below the patella (kneecap);
• For all back problems, hind leg paralysis, and constipation—pinch the tip
of the tail.
While acupressure is a very safe modality to use for animals, there are times
when you shouldn’t give your pet an acupressure treatment. The
conventional wisdom is to avoid acupressure entirely during pregnancy,
since a handful of points can induce premature labor. Also, don’t do
acupressure on an animal who’s just been exercised vigorously or who’s just
eaten a large meal. Wait until the body has cooled down or the food has been
digested so the animal’s energy is calm and diffused. Finally, avoid
administering acupressure if your pet has an infection or an infectious
disease.
As you can see, acupressure is an excellent alternative to acupuncture to help
balance the body and maintain good health since it can reduce stress and
tension, increase circulation, and strengthen the body’s resistance to illness.
***
If you’d like to find books and charts, or learn more about acupuncture,
acupressure, or any of the other related modalities, you can find helpful
information on the Internet by doing website searches, and by visiting
www.ivas.org.
21: Chiropractic - An Overview
C
hiropractic treatments for animals? Absolutely! Sometimes with even
miraculous results!
Animals benefit from chiropractic treatments for the same reason
humans do—they also need relief from pain, soreness, stiffness, and poor
mobility. Animals, large and small, may experience misalignments of the
neck and spine, and if these misalignments aren’t corrected, many serious
physical problems and diseases can develop in animals just as they do in
humans.
Animal spines are very similar to human spines. Also, most mammals,
from mice to giraffes, have exactly the same number of neck bones— seven
—as well as thoracic vertebrae, lumbar and dorsal vertebrae, and a pelvis.
Although the number of bones in the thoracic and lumbar areas differ a little
from those of humans, their basic shapes and functions are quite similar.
However, there are differences in the joints between animals and humans,
and that’s why a chiropractor who treats pets must study animal anatomy.
Animals that have successfully been treated with chiropractic
adjustments include mainly dogs, cats, and horses, though even the
occasional wallaby, goat, pig, calf, cow, iguana, rabbit, and bird have all
benefited from chiropractic treatment. In fact, any animal with a spine can
receive benefits from an adjustment.
Chiropractic care for animals is particularly beneficial whenever there’s
been an injury affecting the spine, joints, muscles, or nerves. It’s commonly
used for animals who have fallen or have suffered other traumas, or who
have arthritis, disc disease, weakness, paralysis, hip dysplasia, or Wobbler’s
syndrome (also called CVI or whiplash).
While a condition such as arthritis can’t be eliminated, gentle joint
manipulation can still be done and usually provides excellent results. It can
also help prevent further degeneration in the animal’s joints.
Chiropractic care can be very useful in conjunction with traditional
veterinary treatment, and with other forms of healing as well. Sometimes, as
an alternative therapy, it can be a replacement for conventional forms of
treatment, but usually it’s a complementary therapy for animals, just as it is
for humans.
 If a veterinarian recommends euthanizing an animal because it’s
paralyzed and unable to move about on its own, or it’s in severe pain, it’s
very wise to try chiropractic adjustments first. If the cause of the problem is
a pinched nerve, that cause can usually be eliminated through chiropractic
adjustments, and the animal can once again enjoy normal function and
mobility. It’s a relatively inexpensive form of treatment and it could even
save your pet’s life.

My own introduction to animal chiropractic

I first saw some of the almost miraculous changes chiropractic treatment

can bring about in animals when I started working with Dr. Jacqueline
DeGrasse, RN, DC, who practices in Highland, California.
Without telling me she was a chiropractor who treats both people and
animals, she asked me to come to her home to work with her three
Dobermans and two Manchester Terriers. As she and I talked after the
consultations, we discovered that my work as an animal communicator could
provide her with important insights into the needs of some of her animal
patients.
I then began working with her regularly one day a week at her clinic. As
we went from patient to patient, I’d gather information from each animal
about where it hurt, how intense the pain was, and if the pain was steady or
if it came and went intermittently.
Sometimes Dr. Jacquie had me ask other specific questions about the
animal’s condition—could he see, did he have headaches, how was his
hearing, did his tummy ache, did it hurt when he went to the bathroom—
anything that might provide her with additional insights. This information
helped her understand how acute the pain was, and it gave her a more
complete picture of the animal’s condition. It could also alert her to any
other health issues an animal might have that weren’t immediately obvious,
or to those times when chiropractic treatments should be closely integrated
with traditional veterinary care.
Until I started working with her, I’d always been very reserved in my
judgment about chiropractic care, but through these experiences, I saw
firsthand how a chiropractor, who had studied animal anatomy, could relieve
an animal’s pain and restore balance to the body by adjusting the neck,
spine, and joints. She could also restore normal range of motion and release
pressure from pinched nerves and the surrounding ligaments and muscles.
These adjustments didn’t hurt the animals. In fact, the animals told me
they found great comfort and relief when their pain was alleviated by a
treatment. Not only that, but x-rays and veterinary diagnosis frequently
confirmed our findings.
While I’m now able to work at the clinic only intermittently or on special
occasions, Dr. Jacquie and I have continued our very successful
collaboration, both in person and by phone, especially when she has a
particularly challenging case.
Many times, I’ve seen miraculous recoveries of animals who had to be
carried into the clinic when they arrived, but were able to walk out on their
own four legs after receiving an adjustment. There have been so many
successes that there’s no doubt: chiropractic treatment definitely works for
animals.

What is chiropractic?

Whether it’s for people or for animals, chiropractic is simple. It’s a

mechanical solution to resolve a mechanical problem. It’s done by hand,
without the use of any drugs. It’s non-invasive and, when it’s done correctly,
it works with the body and not against it.
It’s a science, an art, and a philosophy that utilizes the natural
recuperative powers of every living creature. It’s an essential form of therapy
because it can do what conventional forms of treatment can’t do— it restores
the normal, and very important, relationship between the spine and the
nervous system so a person or an animal can regain and maintain his or her
optimum health.
What does chiropractic care do
Chiropractic care alleviates problems that result from imbalances in three of
the body’s systems:
• The nervous system
• The muscular system
• The skeletal system and joints
In the skeletal system, the bones and joints of the body form a flexible
structure. When this structure is healthy and normally aligned, a person or an
animal can enjoy pain-free movement.
 In the muscular system, healthy muscles allow the joints of the body to
move freely, as long as they’re free from weakness, pain, spasm, or
degenerative changes. The same is true for tendons and ligaments.
But the master controller of the entire body is the nervous system, and
when anything interferes with the nervous system, serious problems usually
result.
The key organs of the nervous system are the brain and the spinal cord.
Because the nervous system is so essential to the body, it’s well protected by
the bony structures of the skull and the spinal vertebrae.
Each of the spinal vertebrae are separated from one another by a disc,
and it’s through these separations, between each vertebrae, that the nerves
can freely communicate with every other part of the body. However, when
this separation is seriously decreased, or isn’t well maintained, it can be the
very place where nerve impulses are cut off. This, in turn, can seriously
affect the entire body.
Nerves are like telephone wires. Messages flow through these “wires”
from the brain to every other area of the body, and then back to the brain
again. These messages affect internal organs, muscles, joints, tendons,
ligaments, bones, skin, and arteries.
However, if these “wires” or nerves become squeezed, pinched,
compressed, crushed, bruised, or irritated because the separation between the
vertebrae goes out of alignment, messages from the brain to and from the
other parts of the body can’t flow back and forth freely and accurately. This
may cause anything from mild discomfort to severe pain.
When one or more vertebrae of the spine are out of alignment, some
chiropractors call this condition a subluxation, but others will refer to it as a
misalignment of the spine. The good news is that normal function can be
restored to the nervous system when that misalignment is corrected through
the process of a chiropractic adjustment.
What is a misalignment or subluxation
“Misalignment” and “subluxation” are words used to tell us that certain
bones in the body are out of position in relation to each another, or they’re
“fixed” and not moving properly for whatever reason. When there’s a
misalignment (subluxation), the body doesn’t function optimally, and there
may be some noticeable symptoms. The symptoms may range from mild to
severe, but the most common symptom is an abnormality in an animal’s gait
caused by pain.
 Misalignments can be caused by trauma, toxins, and stress, though
trauma and various types of stresses are probably the most frequent causes.
Trauma for an animal may result from an accident, repetitive jerks on a leash
(especially one attached to a choke chain), a bad twist during a Frisbee
catch, an animal flipping over while playing with another animal, or a cat
flipping over as it leaps from a high place. Trauma may also happen to
performance dogs and horses who have high physical demands made on
them during practice and competition. Animals also sometimes trip, fall, and
stumble in the course of their daily lives, or they’re subject to a wide range
of body-challenging stresses that can result in misalignments.
A change from carpet to hardwood floors may cause a dog to wrap himself
around a door frame and tense up many muscles when he can’t negotiate the
turn in time.
Cats often have to move very swiftly, or leap and twist when they’re being
chased by another animal.
Show horses that participate in competitions have to endure being jostled
about during long trailer rides, and then may have to maneuver their bodies
in very precise ways that put extra stress on their spines during a
performance. Or consider the structural stress on a family horse that’s ridden
only once a month, or once every several months, or ridden by someone
who’s gained extra weight.
Toenails that are allowed to grow too long can also cause misalignments.
The discomfort of walking with extra long toenails can cause an animal to
compensate by changing his gait to avoid as much discomfort as possible.
This, in turn, can cause significant stress to several other parts of the body.
Overweight animals are prone to misalignments because the joints of their
spines and legs are subject to a considerable amount of extra stress whenever
they have to move the excess weight of their bodies around.
Advancing age can also lead to the occurrence of misalignments. These
often result from degenerative changes in the body.
Many animals experience misalignments because they don’t receive enough
exercise to stretch and strengthen their abdomens and backs on a regular
basis. This often happens to animals who aren’t walked or don’t get to run
frequently, or who are confined to kennels or crates for long periods of time.
It can also be a problem for large dogs who spend most of their time in small
back yards and aren’t given sufficient exercise.
How can misalignments affect animals?
 It’s actually possible to see a relationship between misalignments
(subluxations) and certain diseases, conditions, or behaviors in animals.
For example, misalignments in the upper cervical (neck) area can be related
to:
• The slow learner
• The hyperactive dog
• Attention deficit disorders
• Blurred vision, especially in certain types of fear-biters
• Sound sensitivity
• Recurrent ear infections
• Certain varieties of seizures
• Olfactory disorders
• Immune disorders
Misalignments in the mid-and-lower-cervical area can be related to:
• Motion sickness
• Certain anxiety states
• Lick granulomas
• Hypothyroidism/ Hyperthyroidism
• Limping
Misalignments in the thoracic region between the shoulder blades can be
related to:
• Lung disorders, such as asthma
• Heart problems, especially mitral valve insufficiencies in older dogs
• Liver disorders
• Digestive disorders
When animals are in pain because of a misalignment, they’ll often
compensate by changing their posture or gait, or by refusing to perform
certain actions they’d ordinarily do very willingly. If you notice any of these
changes, have your pet examined by a veterinarian right away to determine
the cause of the problem, then follow up by consulting an animal
chiropractor to see if an adjustment will help your pet.
What is an adjustment?
An adjustment is a gentle, specific movement of the affected part of the
body to correct any misalignments (subluxations).
When an adjustment is made, the vertebrae of the back, or any other affected
joints, are returned to their proper positions. This in turn removes pressure
from the nerves, which once again allows messages to flow back and forth
freely and accurately between the brain and all the other parts of the body.
Sometimes, physical therapy or an exercise program may also be
recommended following an adjustment. Cold packs, ultrasound, and
massage may be used to reduce pain and swelling, while exercise may help
minimize the occurrence of any other problems.
Chiropractors usually use their hands to administer adjustments, though
some may also use an instrument.
Dr. Jacquie feels the techniques that utilize the hands are far superior to
those that use instruments. The hands are able to receive so much
information regarding the animal’s muscle tone (relaxed or in spasm),
temperature, the metabolic state, the emotional state, the positioning of the
bone, and most importantly, the response of the bone to the applied pressure
of the hands. All of this information can help the chiropractor know how
deep to make the adjustment, and how much force to deliver.
Being touched by hands can also make a big difference in how the animal
feels about the doctor, as well as the tolerance an animal has for allowing the
chiropractor to work.
Dr. Jacquie feels the level of rapport that’s established between the animal
and the doctor is absolutely critical because it helps the animal develop a
sense of trust. The stronger the bond of trust, the easier it will be for healing
to take place as the animal relaxes in the presence of the chiropractor.
An instrument lacks the ability to provide the wealth of information gathered
through the hands, and it doesn’t do anything to reassure the animal. Dr.
Jacquie does feel that instrumental adjustments are better than nothing at all,
but the results may not be as predictable, or as long lasting.
Above all, there’s an added advantage to using the hands when making the
chiropractic adjustment—the loving touch of another living being!

Recent history of animal chiropractic in the U.S.

Chiropractic care for humans began officially back in 1895 when Daniel
D. Palmer adjusted the spine of a man who’d been injured during a lifting
accident. This man had been virtually deaf for many years as a result of that
incident, yet, with only one adjustment, his hearing was restored.
Dr. Palmer admitted, however, that chiropractic was not his invention,
but rather it was a revival of an ancient Greek art. For that reason,
Hippocrates of Ancient Greece is generally acknowledged to be the father of
chiropractic techniques, but Babylonians, Chinese, Egyptians, Hebrews,
Hindus, Persians, and Scythians all had knowledge of this art, though it may
have been a bit unrefined and unscientific.
Chiropractic practice for animals was never a direct focus of Dr.
Palmer’s practice in the beginning, yet, the use of chiropractic to treat
animals isn’t a recent development either.
It began early in the history of chiropractic according to Sharon
Willoughby, DVM, DC, in her article titled “Animal Chiropractic History.”
She quotes Daniel Palmer’s son, B. J. Palmer, as saying in 1944, “In the
early days of chiropractic, we maintained a veterinarian [sic] hospital where
we adjusted the vertebral subluxations of sick cows, horses, cats, dogs, etc.
We did this to prove to ourselves that the Chiropractic principle and practice
did apply.”
For years, there were many anecdotal reports about the various successes
chiropractors had whenever they did treat animals. It was these many
successes that led early practitioners to pursue clinical research in animal
chiropractic treatment.
It wasn’t until 1980, however, that an organization known as Options for
Animals was first founded to promote the regular use of chiropractic care
and other alternative forms of treatment for animals.
Then in 1986, a group of veterinarians and chiropractors formed the
American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA) with three primary
goals in mind:
• to enable both veterinarians and chiropractors to understand basic
chiropractic theory and technique as it applies to animals;
• to recognize which animals are in need of chiropractic care; and
• to apply the appropriate chiropractic therapy to animals who are in need.
Later on, as the result of intensive educational programs for its members,
and the successful application of animal chiropractic to their patients by
those who had received this training, the organization also helped to
establish the application of animal chiropractic as a recognized discipline.
Today, animal chiropractic is becoming much more available, though in
most states it’s still against the law for chiropractors to treat animals, or even
for veterinarians to refer animal patients to chiropractors. A few states do
allow chiropractors to treat animals, but only if they’re referred by a
veterinarian first.
However, it’s clear that veterinarians and chiropractors, who’ve received the
proper kind of education and training, are well qualified to provide this very
effective form of care for both our two-footed and four-footed animal
friends.
***
In the next chapter, we’ll talk about many of the practical aspects of
chiropractic care you’ll want to know about before taking your pet to see an
animal chiropractor.
22: Chiropractic— Practical Information
Q
uite a number of veterinary clinics now offer chiropractic care for their
animal patients. A single chiropractor often works for multiple veterinary
offices on an as-needed basis, though some also maintain their own private
practices and clinics. But every animal chiropractor is asked certain
questions—and here they are, answered for you.

What happens during an appointment?

After the primary care veterinarian has examined the animal, he’ll then
refer the pet to the animal chiropractor for an evaluation.
During the first appointment, the chiropractor will ask about the animal’s
current complaint, but will also take a detailed case history to learn as much
about the animal’s overall state of health as possible.
The chiropractor will then perform a thorough neurological and orthopedic
examination and check the animal’s gait and posture in sitting, standing, and
walking positions. He or she isn’t looking for obvious limps. Instead, the
chiropractor is looking for subtle changes in motion—the kind that require a
trained eye to detect. Animal chiropractors (and people chiropractors as
well) are most concerned with finding any misalignment that’s interfering
with the proper function of the structure of the body.
When there’s limited movement, reduced function, or evidence of pain or
muscle spasm caused by a misalignment (subluxation) in the spine or pelvic
area, the necessary adjustments will then be made to bring the misaligned
area back into alignment. After the spine has been adjusted, the extremities
will also be checked for muscle tone, any hot or cold spots, and mobility of
the joints. Any required adjustments will then be made in those areas also.
Adjustments are always tailored to the individual animal. The strength of an
adjustment will depend on the size of the animal, the segment of the spine or
the part of the body that’s affected, and the speed and skill of the
chiropractor.
Once the animal has been treated, he’s then observed over a period of time to
see if the adjustment brings about changes of any kind, or if there’s any
measurable improvement. If there’s a positive response to the adjustment, or
if your pet has a serious or chronic condition, then it’s usually wise to
schedule some additional appointments for maintenance adjustments.
During the examination, or when a pet doesn’t show a positive response to
chiropractic treatment, the animal chiropractor may determine that
traditional veterinary care would be more effective. He or she will then make
this recommendation to you and to your pet’s veterinarian.
Only a veterinarian can dispense medications and perform surgery, but
working together, a veterinarian and a competent animal chiropractor can
help you keep your pet in the best possible health.

What kinds of problems respond well to chiropractic treatment?

Chiropractic treatment can be particularly helpful for animals who have

any problems involving joints, muscles, or nerves. These problems
sometimes manifest when a nerve has been pinched or compressed by a tight
muscle, or when a joint has slipped out of place.
Nothing in veterinary medicine will ordinarily undo this type of
mechanical injury. Traditional therapies may alleviate some symptoms, and
surgery is sometimes an option, but traditional therapies won’t remove the
cause of the problem in the very effective way chiropractic often can and
does.
Misalignments may become the cause of other serious diseases or
chronic conditions if they’re left untreated over time. But a chiropractic
adjustment can put the joints back into proper position, or release the tight
muscles. This, in turn, releases the pressure on the nerves so they can
function properly again.
Some common problems in animals that respond well to chiropractic
treatment include:
• Back pain
• Leg pain
• Sciatica
• Lameness
• Neck pain
• Head tilt
• Injuries from falls, jumping, or accidents
• Pain associated with hip dysplasia
• Disc problems
• Degenerative arthritis
• Incontinence
• Non-bone-related types of cancer
• Wobbler’s Syndrome (whiplash or CVI)
But chiropractic can also sometimes help pets avoid serious surgeries, or
even save their lives. The following case histories, provided by Dr.
Jacqueline DeGrasse, are all good examples of this.
Cody - A little life saved
Early in Dr. Jacquie’s career, her skills were challenged by a little cockatiel named Cody. After
Cody spent 24 hours in intensive care, the vet called Dr. Jacquie to come see this bird who was
definitely in need of a miracle.
Cody stood on his perch, with his head hanging all the way down to his feet. He couldn’t lift his
head, and he couldn’t eat or drink. He could turn ever so slightly to look at you, but his head was
literally dangling at the end of a very bent neck.
His owner said the little door on Cody’s brand new cage had somehow trapped him underneath it,
but she didn’t discover that fact until she’d arrived home from work. Her pleas asking for help for her
beloved pet tugged at the heartstrings, but the frustration on the vet’s face as he shrugged his shoulders
and said, “I can’t do anything,” was unbearable for Dr. Jacquie.
Xrays showed there was severe rotation of the neck, and the chiropractic correction that was
needed would have to be verrrry delicate. Both Dr. Jacquie and the vet were experienced at working
with small and exotic animals under anesthesia, so together they made the decision to try to straighten
Cody’s neck while he was anesthetized. If the procedure didn’t work, the little bird would then have to
be euthanized. The vet still didn’t hold out any hope, but he agreed to try at the insistence of the
desperate owner.
After the adjustments were performed, Dr. Jacquie used a soft ponytail holder as a little neck splint
to support the head. By the second day, Cody was able to hold his head up on his own, and he was
grooming himself!
Seeing Cody, with his head held high, taught Dr. Jacquie not to set any limitations on what
chiropractic care can do. The power of the body to heal itself is limitless when it receives the right
kind of help!
Mookie - Surgery avoided and another life saved
It’s sometimes difficult to know ahead of time whether or not spinal surgery is definitely needed,
and it’s not always possible to know ahead of time if it will be successful, even if it is performed. In
addition, there are always the possible risks of anesthesia, infection, and nerve damage. Not only that,
but surgery is also very costly, and many times, when owners can’t afford it, their only alternative is to
have their beloved pet euthanized.
Fortunately, there’s definitely another possibility that will help in a number of cases. Chiropractic
work on an animal’s spine is a noninvasive procedure that can often be a successful alternative to
surgery, as this next case shows.
Dr. Jacquie was awakened early one morning by a frantic phone call. Randy, a “Rottie” breeder,
was crying so hard her words weren’t even recognizable. All Dr. Jacquie could do at the moment was
to tell Randy to meet her at the animal hospital immediately.
As she walked in, Dr. Jacquie saw Randy and the vet just standing in the hallway. Coming closer,
she could see Mookie lying behind them on the floor, motionless. Whenever he saw Dr. Jacquie,
Mookie always wanted to come and get his “loves and snuggles,” but this time he could barely turn
his head, and he wasn’t coming toward her as he normally would.
“He can’t move! He can’t move anything!” Randy cried, as the vet told Dr. Jacquie that Mookie’s
front and back paws were both paralyzed. Randy said he woke up this way, so this meant there was a
sudden onset with no apparent explanation.
The x-rays showed compressed discs at the base of the spine. Mookie was a “love bug,” but he
was also a giant of a Rottweiler, and Dr. Jacquie was a little overwhelmed by the size of his neck. She
wondered for a moment if this was a case where it would have to be surgery or nothing.
The vet motioned Dr. Jacquie to come into his office where he told her, “You won’t pull this one
off! His neck is a mess. He’s a goner. She can’t afford surgery—but she says she believes in you.”
Dr. Jacquie asked the vet if he’d be willing to anesthetize Mookie, and the vet agreed. He’d
worked with her for many years and knew exactly what to do to prepare the dog so the chiropractor
could make the necessary adjustments.
She’d developed specific chiropractic moves to use when the discs are so severely compressed.
These moves pull the disc bulge away from the spinal cord, but it requires the complete muscle
relaxation induced by anesthesia to allow that movement to occur. This type of chiropractic work is
very delicate, and even somewhat controversial, but she had to try because it seemed to be the only
option.
The following week, Dr. Jacquie told the vet that Mookie was now walking again! The vet could
only smile and shake his head, but together, they were “raising the bar” for what the combination of
veterinary and chiropractic care could do. And it felt so good!
The case of the non-barking puppy
Another little miracle occurred when Dr. Jacquie was asked to work on a four-week-old Golden
Retriever puppy who couldn’t vocalize—not even a little bit. The breeder had worked closely with Dr.
Jacquie to correct a variety of conditions in her other animals, so she was both curious and very
anxious to see if anything could be done in this case.
A veterinary examination didn’t reveal any medical problem, and the vet couldn’t offer any course
of treatment. The puppy was declared to be in perfect health, except for not being able to vocalize.
But being a “silent” dog was almost a death sentence. The very astute breeder would never pass
along health or non-conformity issues in her lines, so the little female puppy was definitely out of the
breeding program. And most families wanted a dog that could protect their children—which wasn’t
likely to happen with a mute pup.
After a little prayer, and a very big adjustment up and down the puppy’s spine, everyone waited.
About a week later, Dr. Jacquie suddenly received an excited phone call. The puppy was barking and
squealing and was learning to project her voice louder and louder! At first, her voice scared her, but as
she grew used to the noise, she became more confident. Eventually, of course, she learned just how
valuable her voice could be when she discovered that using it at the right times meant receiving
“cookies” for a reward!

When should my pet see an animal chiropractor?

We’ve just talked about several ways in which chiropractic treatments

can make life much better for animals. But how can you tell when your pet
might benefit from chiropractic care?
If you observe any of the following signs in your pet, first have him
examined by your veterinarian, but keep in mind that chiropractic care might
also be appropriate.
Accidents, injuries
• Injuries from car accidents
• Injuries from other types of accidents
• Sports injuries
• Falling
Pain
• Back, neck, leg, or tail pain
• Sudden onset of pain
• Facial expressions of apprehension or pain
• Neck pain from sudden collar or choke chain pulls
• Discomfort when putting on, or taking off, collars and harnesses
Events during play or other activity
• Playing, but suddenly becoming acutely lame
• Being sideswiped or body slammed by another dog while playing
• Getting rolled while playing
• Losing balance while running
• Stumbling while walking
• Running into walls, trees, doors, windows, etc.
• Abnormal twisting during Frisbee catching
Movement problems
• Limping
• Gait issues
• Partial paralysis
• Stiffness coming out of the crate or stall
• Stiffness in side movement of the body or neck
• Shortened stride
• Rear end weakness
• Difficulty lying down and getting up
• Side winding or crabbing
• Holding up a paw or hoof
• Unable to bear weight on one or more extremities
Postural problems
• Abnormal posture when standing
• Wringing or tucking the tail
• Hanging the head
• Evasive maneuvers such as dipping the head or hollowing the back
• Holding the tail down, or off to one side, and shaking, crying, or hiding
• Sitting off to one side
• Puppy sitting with the rear legs off to one side
Performance problems
 • Inability to jump up onto a couch, bed, chair, etc., or to jump back
down
• Difficulty going up or down stairs
• Unwillingness or refusal to go over performance jumps
• Overall decrease in normal performance
Unusual changes
• Changes in coordination
• Behavioral changes
• Mood changes
• Decreased activity levels
• Snapping
• Refusal to play
• Sensitivity to touch
• Excessive scratching
• Continual licking of paws or limbs (lick granulomas)
• Pacing
• Fear biting
• Eating problems
• Incontinence of bladder or bowel
• Diarrhea or constipation
• Shortness of breath (from a rib misalignment)
• Constant ear problems or allergies
• Multiple repetitive infections
Assorted conditions
• After receiving general anesthesia (although it’s important to wait 1-2
weeks for full recovery first)
• No relief from anti-inflammatory medications
• Uneven muscle development
• Muscle atrophy or shrinking
• Unevenness in pelvis or hips
• Seizures
• Neurological problems
• Skin lesions
• Jaw problems or difficulty chewing
• Lack of energy
• Weakness
• Infertility
• Difficult birth
• Failure to thrive
• Mega-esophagus
Aging and working animals
• Arthritis symptoms
• Other degenerative symptoms in older animals
• Symptoms in any dog participating in obedience or competition
• Symptoms in working dogs such as Police Dogs, Service Dogs, or Search
and Rescue Dogs

When is chiropractic care notindicated?

There are several circumstances when chiropractic care shouldn’t be used.

These include:
• a complete breakdown of a joint, such as a torn ligament in the knee
• a joint dislocation
• any fractures
• an infection
• the presence of stones such as kidney or gallbladder, or foreign objects, or
tumors
• bleeding disorders such as DIC, a complex disorder that occurs when the
blood clotting mechanism is activated throughout the whole body instead of
being localized just to the area of an injury
• any acute situation such as trauma, shock, or surgery, or medical disorders
such as diabetes or cancer
Even though chiropractic adjustments shouldn’t normally be administered in
cases of infection or diabetes, there may be times when an exception would
be appropriate:
• A chiropractic adjustment can stimulate the immune system, which can
enhance the healing process when antibiotics have been administered for an
infection; and
• Chiropractic care may help lower blood sugar levels or stimulate the
immune system to help with healing, but it should never be utilized to
circumvent traditional medical care.
While chiropractic care may assist in the animal’s healing, it should never be
administered in either of the two situations named above until after the
animal has been stabilized by a veterinarian.
Normally, adjustments should also not be administered when an animal is
heavily sedated because damage could occur to the animal’s structure when
he’s so totally relaxed.
However, in certain serious cases, when full anesthesia is properly used for
only a very short period of time, and the chiropractor is highly experienced,
there may be valid reasons for performing adjustments while an animal is
fully sedated. In her eighteen-plus years of experience, Dr. Jacquie has
successfully treated more than 630 cases under sedation in which animals
with paralysis have been returned to full mobility. Some conditions that may
require sedation include:
• paralysis (partial or complete)
• extreme pain or fear
• extreme trauma
• head dislocation
• correction of hip dysplasia (in some conditions)
• sprung pelvis
• critical upper cervical (neck) work
• correction of mega-esophagus
• exotic work (some conditions or species)
You can find much more detailed information on Dr. Jacquie’s website
www.animal-chiropractic-care.com under the menu item “Paralyzed Pets.”
The choice to use sedation is never made lightly, but all pet owners, whose
two- or four-footed animal friends are now walking normally, are very
grateful they were given a choice between using this procedure, or most
likely having to euthanize their pets.

How many adjustments will an animal need?

The number of adjustments needed will depend entirely on the animal’s

condition. Sometimes a single adjustment can immediately relieve the
problem, but for chronic conditions, adjustments may be needed on a more
frequent basis.
It’s also very important to consider using adjustments for preventive care
to maintain as much motion in the spine and joints as possible. Maintenance
adjustments may be administered every month, every several months, or at
least once a year.
 While chiropractic care may be beneficial for every animal, it may be
particularly important for “weekend warriors,” serious athletes, and animals
suffering from arthritis. Chiropractic adjustments may give the serious
athlete a more competitive edge, but they’ll also help prevent injuries in both
the serious athlete and the “weekend warrior.” Regular treatments may also
prevent further degeneration in cases of arthritis.
Fortunately, the cost of chiropractic care is quite reasonable, so whenever
there seems to be any problem caused by a structural misalignment, it’s a
very wise idea to consult an animal chiropractor.

Will it hurt my pet to be adjusted?

Most animals actually enjoy receiving an adjustment.

When chiropractors identify a particularly painful area, they use their
hands to ascertain how sensitive the animal is, how intense the pain is, and
how much pressure can be applied. This is done by gauging the animal’s
response at different pressure points. Once that’s accomplished, then an
adjustment can be made. In cases of acute pain, the doctor may even wait to
make a complete adjustment until the animal is more relaxed.
Muzzling an animal may be a good idea in some cases, and mild
tranquilization (not heavy sedation) may also be helpful for animals who are
in acute pain.
Some animals may only need to be gently restrained or given calming
reassurance while an adjustment is made, but even these animals seem to
realize afterward that the adjustment was well worth it.

How will I know if chiropractic treatment has helped my pet?

When an animal has received chiropractic care, there are distinct signs
that show the animal has been helped. Listed below are behaviors and
clinical observations Dr. Jacquie says an animal will display, either
immediately after treatment, or within the first 24 hours after a chiropractic
adjustment.
• Areas of localized heat on the animal’s body should return to the same
temperature as the rest of the body. If the ears are warmer than the rest of the
body after a chiropractic adjustment, then an infection or some other cause
should be suspected.
• Incontinence (loss of urinary control) should improve within 24 hours after
an adjustment. If the situation does not improve, then causes such as
infection or an inadequate estrogen level need to be considered.
• If the animal’s head is tilted, or held in a crooked manner upon the neck
before the adjustment, then afterward the head should be held straighter
upon the neck. In severe situations such as torticollis (wry neck), several
adjustments might be needed, but there still should be some improvement in
the carriage of the head after the first chiropractic treatment.
• Muscle tension (the hardness of the muscle) will become softer after the
adjustment. This softness should be able to be felt when the animal’s owner
touches the pet.
• The animal should sleep 2-4 hours immediately after chiropractic work.
This usually occurs in younger or older animals, and Dr. Jacquie has
observed this behavior in every species. Many animals will sleep longer
depending on the depth of the adjustment and how badly the nerve had been
compressed in the spinal column before treatment.
• An animal should obviously be much more relaxed after a treatment.
Panting or pacing should diminish. Often the animal will “settle” himself—
going from a standing position to sitting down, or from a sitting position to a
recumbent position on the ground or floor.
• There should be an immediate change in the stance of the animal. This
change may not be permanent but should be evident after the initial
chiropractic treatment. There may be small changes such as the correct
placement of a leg further under the animal’s body, or the ability to bear
more weight on an extremity.
• Demeanor should return to normal, or at least improve. Characteristic
behaviors such as barking when there’s a knock at the door may start up
again. Often there’ll be a return to regular habits such as eating, or a return
to specific actions the animal had stopped before the owner first sought care.
• Bald spots on the animal’s body should begin to show hair growth. An
excessively oily patch of skin will become more normal, and an overly
moist, open area of skin should become drier.
• Whatever clinical signs or behaviors were displayed prior to the
chiropractic adjustment should show some degree of improvement. The
degree of improvement, or the timeframe required to demonstrate
improvement, may reflect the skill of the practitioner.
How can I find an animal chiropractor?

Most veterinary associations require that animals have an established

veterinarian as the primary care giver. That veterinarian must then consent to
allow animal chiropractic work to proceed, and he or she needs to document
that consent in the animal’s health record. Respecting this requirement
ensures that the animal has received an initial level of care, and serves to
provide a “check and balance” against erroneous treatment or non-legitimate
caregivers.
If the vet has authorized chiropractic treatment for your pet, the clinic staff
will then help you schedule an appointment with the chiropractor.
If the veterinarian doesn’t make referrals, calling local chiropractors who
treat humans, or local chiropractic schools, to inquire if they also work on
animals, may be the next step you need to take.
Animal chiropractic is frequently used for racehorses, so the larger breed
farms may be another source of information about animal chiropractors in
your local area. And personal referrals from other people who feel they’ve
received a high quality of animal chiropractic care for their pets may also be
helpful.
In addition, the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA)
may be able to provide a list of practicing animal chiropractors who have
completed the AVCA’s training program. This organization has begun to
offer a level of quality control, and its educational programs have begun to
set a standard of practice for animal chiropractors.
Their work is important because the field of animal chiropractic is
relatively new and isn’t otherwise regulated. In fact, it isn’t even legally
sanctioned yet in the United States. However, it is tolerated, within the
established protocols, between veterinarians and animal chiropractors in
many states.
Since there is no quality control organization, nor policing organization,
other than veterinarian associations and chiropractic state boards, the AVCA
would like to establish itself as a governing body, and it does hope to
achieve legal recognition.
It’s important to understand that many people, both medical and
nonmedical, are simply not aware of the tremendous benefits of animal
chiropractic care, but if there were a recognized governing body, it could
establish avenues for wider recognition and acceptance of this highly
beneficial kind of treatment.
Meanwhile, it’s important for the animals’ well being that animal
chiropractors respect the legalities of their respective states, and that they
make sure the potential client is aware of any limitations currently imposed
on them.
***
If it weren’t for my chiropractor friend and colleague, Dr. Jacqueline
DeGrasse, I might never have written this series of books. My work with
her introduced me not only to chiropractic care for animals, but also to the
use of many other alternative and complementary healing modalities for
them as well.
Together, she and I have helped a wide variety of dogs, and some other
exotic animals as well, including Annie, the wallaby; Chloe, the goat; and
Peanut, the pig. Their stories, and the stories of Xanto, Vicki, and Buddha (a
German Shepherd, a Miniature Dachshund, and a Golden Retriever) are each
unique and fascinating. They’re all recounted in detail in my second book
Pets Have Feelings, Too! You’ll find them in Chapter 4—Physical Healing -
Uncommon Pets, and in Chapter 5—Physical Healing - Man’s Best Friend.
In addition to reading their stories, I would also strongly encourage you
to visit Dr. Jacquie’s website at www.animal-chiropractic-care.com to learn
much more about what animal chiropractic care can accomplish. You’ll also
find many important ideas in various places on her website about how to
preserve the integrity of your pet’s neck and spine in the activities of
everyday living. Be sure to check the menu items about “Pet Safety,” “Did
You Know,” and “At Home Care” for a wealth of practical tips.
Remember, chiropractic is a natural, drug-free, non-invasive method of
treatment you can use as part of your animal’s total health care. In
conjunction with regular veterinary care, chiropractic care can decrease pain,
restore normal range of motion to your animal’s joints, and add quality to
your animal’s movement, performance, and overall well-being.
Animal chiropractic care is giving hope to what might otherwise be some
hopeless cases, and it’s helping to provide greater longevity for our beloved
pets. As a pet communicator, I know it’s helping animals because they tell
me so!
23: Hydrotherapy
H
ydrotherapy, in its broadest sense, means the treatment of “disease” using
water. In its simplest form, it could be giving your pet a soothing bath using
herbal shampoos or a medicated wash designed to treat a specific skin
condition. However, the most common form of hydrotherapy—and one
that’s often great fun for animals and humans alike—is water immersion and
swimming.
All animals can swim by instinct, but how much they enjoy it will
depend on how confident they feel in the water. Their confidence can usually
be developed or increased by introducing them to water very gradually.
Most dogs and horses will quite happily engage in swimming as a form
of exercise therapy. However, if you have an aging, unfit, injured, or
recovering animal, be sure to check with your veterinarian first before taking
your pet swimming on your own.
Practically speaking, most veterinary hydrotherapy today is used for
dogs and horses, but its techniques and practices can sometimes be adapted
to other animals that, under normal circumstances, wouldn’t be thought of as
“water-friendly.”

History

The benefit of using sea water for the treatment and prevention of leg
injuries in horses has been known for centuries. It’s even talked about in
Greek and Roman writings from as long ago as the 4th century B.C. But
many horses weren’t necessarily located close to any body of water, so
eventually, it became important to find an alternative method to provide this
type of therapy.
Because racehorses represent a valuable financial investment, inventors
in the United Kingdom and the United States began to produce devices,
beginning approximately in the mid-19th century, to provide the benefits of
cold seawater immersion for horses. The greyhound racing industry
eventually recognized the benefits of cold water equine therapy, and not long
after that, the use of hydrotherapy treatment in a heated pool was extended to
dogs in general.
(For an explanation about when to use cold or heated water, be sure to
see the section below about Pool Availability and Design.)

Exercise without stress

Hydrotherapy helps to improve general fitness by developing stamina

and improving muscle tone. It’s an excellent form of exercise because it
involves most of the muscles normally used in bodily movement—but
without the stresses caused by running on hard ground.
On land, each footfall creates a shock wave that travels up the limb and
is absorbed by the bones, tendons, and joints. While these stresses are
necessary to maintain strong, healthy bones, if these shock waves are severe
or repetitive, they can actually damage or weaken the limbs, particularly in
an arthritic joint, or in one recovering from an injury or surgery.
Hydrotherapy, on the other hand, allows the “working out” and
strengthening of the muscles while avoiding the potentially damaging effects
of weight bearing exercise. Another benefit of hydrotherapy is that the
animal’s muscles have to work harder than they would on land because of
the increased resistance to the animal’s movements created by the density of
the water itself.

Many applications for hydrotherapy

In animals who have vertebrae, muscle wasting begins within three days
of any immobilization, so after a pet has been injured, or has undergone a
debilitating disease or surgical procedure, it’s important to quickly begin
rebuilding muscles and prevent any further weakness or injury.
Certain conditions, particularly in dogs and horses, can show no
improvement, or may even be aggravated by weight bearing exercises, but
they can very effectively be treated in the weightless environment of water.
Among these conditions are hip dysplasia and osteochondritis dissecans
(OCD), problems most common in medium to large purebred dogs such as
German Shepherds and Labradors or Golden Retrievers; chronic
degenerative radiculomyelopathy (CDRM), a degenerative disease of the
spinal cord that causes hind limb problems in German Shepherds; and
luxating patella, which occurs mostly in small and toy breeds.
 Injuries to certain ligaments may also preclude, or limit, post-operative
weight-bearing exercise in both dogs and horses. Therefore, water-centered
rehabilitation therapy is particularly appropriate for dogs and horses
recovering from a range of conditions—especially those involving problems
with limbs.
If an animal can’t exercise normally, hydrotherapy may also be used as a
means of maintaining fitness until an operation can be performed to correct a
problem. For example, when a congenital condition is identified in a puppy,
it may be that surgery isn’t advisable until the animal is physically mature,
but during the period preceding the surgery, hydrotherapy can be employed
to maintain the dog in good, or at least reasonable, physical condition.
Obese dogs, while they need exercise, may aggravate existing conditions
or even injure themselves in the process. That’s because, whenever they’re
walked normally, any excess weight causes increased pressure to be exerted
on their joints. Moving that extra body weight around is almost like walking
while carrying a backpack loaded with rocks. These dogs can build fitness,
and perhaps even lose weight—without causing excessive stress to their leg,
hip, and shoulder joints—if they’re exercised in a hydrotherapy pool.
Spinal injuries or surgery can sometimes cause impairment of motor
function in animals. This problem can be treated quite effectively by
including exercise in water in the rehabilitation plan. Water therapy provides
support and allows continuing exercise for muscles while nerve regeneration
is taking place.
Degenerative problems, such as arthritis, can also make normal weight
bearing exercise difficult, and pressure on joints and limbs may aggravate
certain conditions, so hydrotherapy can be used in these instances to provide
an exercise environment in which there’s little or no pressure on the affected
areas.

Pool availability and design

Many U.S. veterinary clinics have installed special pools to provide

hydrotherapy treatments for animals, and technicians have been trained in
their use for specific conditions. However, such treatments are not
universally offered, so you may have to ask your veterinarian for a referral to
a clinic that can accommodate your animal’s needs.
 It’s better to swim dogs in heated water. That’s because cold water
causes constriction of the blood vessels near the skin, and constriction of the
superficial muscles just under the skin. This restricts the flow of blood and
makes the muscles work less efficiently. Horses, however, are usually
immersed in cold water because it helps to dissipate the enormous amounts
of heat they generate under exertion, a phenomenon that reflects the fact that
horses have a far less efficient internal cooling system than most smaller
animals do. Therefore, you should seek out heated pools for dogs and cold-
water pools for horses.
Pool designs for canine hydrotherapy vary widely, but most have generic
elements. The pool tends to be smaller than a human swimming pool and is
therapeutically heated. The water is chlorinated or treated with an alternative
chemical. Some pools have jets to add resistance in order to make an animal
swim more vigorously. Most pools have a ramp for entry and exit, though
they may also have a manual or electric hoist for lifting purposes. Some
pools also employ harnesses to maintain a dog in a stable position in the
water.

Hydrotherapy as a cardio-pulmonary workout

Exercising in water is an effective way to strengthen both the lungs and the
heart.
Lungs
Under water, the chest must absorb pressure from the weight of the water
squeezing inwards. This means that every breath requires more effort
because the muscles used for breathing—particularly for inbreathing—have
to work harder. Just as any muscle can be strengthened with exercise, the
whole respiratory system can be strengthened because of the increased
pressure provided by the water.
Heart
The heart must also work harder because it needs to meet the increased
demand for nutrients from all of the muscles that are being exercised during
a session. Experts agree that hydrotherapy provides benefits to the heart
roughly equal to moderate on-land exercise for most animals.
***
If all of this sounds like hard work, it is—and that’s the point! For a dog,
a five-minute swim in a hydrotherapy pool is equivalent to about a five-mile
run. For a horse, ten minutes of active swimming is roughly equivalent to
about an hour’s workout in an exercise corral.
Additionally, the natural buoyancy of the water and the fact that sudden
twists, stops, and falls don’t happen in a liquid environment make
hydrotherapy a safe and effective form of exercise for both horses and dogs,
as well as for some other animals that will accommodate themselves to
water.

Swimming as part of a planned fitness program

Many racehorse and dog trainers also use swimming therapy as a

regular part of their healthy animals’ fitness regimen. Almost all of the
larger horse farms in the United States have special purpose pools on the
premises so they can swim their animals regularly.
However, hydrotherapy/swimming, which certainly helps respiratory,
cardio-vascular, and muscular systems, should never be looked upon as an
alternative to traditional methods of maintaining and improving fitness in
animals.
Every comprehensive exercise program should contain the normal
elements of stress an animal is likely to face in its daily life. This means
bones and connective tissues need “impact” exercise on land. Bones are
living tissues, too, and it’s necessary to “tell” them where the areas of stress
are usually going to be, so they can strengthen properly and be prepared for
the rigors of daily life. They learn to adapt to these stresses through the
experience of weight bearing exercise—something that can’t be duplicated
in a hydrotherapy pool.
***
While it’s always important to provide exercise for every animal
throughout its life, if your pet can’t engage in traditional forms of exercise,
hydrotherapy may be just the modality he or she needs to maintain good
physical function. Even a heated backyard swimming pool may be useful for
this purpose if professionally supervised therapy isn’t required. And if you
can join your pet for a swimming session, it’s always a unique opportunity
for deepening that special bond between the two of you.
24: How To Pre-Test Remedies
Y
ou’re aware now of many helpful modalities that might be beneficial for
your pet, but you may feel somewhat overwhelmed when you’re trying to
decide what to use first.
You’ve already identified several options that might work well to
alleviate your pet’s specific symptoms or disease, but you don’t want to try
using too many different remedies or treatments all at the same time, or
you’ll have no way of knowing what’s helpful and what’s not.
It’s also important to consider that some animals react well to a specific
herb, nutritional supplement, food, medicine, or an alternative or
complementary therapy, while other animals with the same problem might
react adversely. And it’s also valid to say that the same treatment or
medicine might help an animal at one point during an illness, but not at
another.
So how do you know which remedy or treatment to use? Will your pet
react positively or negatively to whatever you select? Is it all just guesswork,
or finding out by trial and error?
Happily, there are at least two methods that might help you determine which
form of treatment may be best for your pet.

Muscle testing

Muscle Testing, also referred to as Muscle Response Testing (MRT) or

Applied Kinesiology (AK), is one possible way to determine, ahead of time,
if a food, nutritional supplement, medication, homeopathic remedy, or any
other alternative or complementary remedy or treatment may agree or
disagree with your pet’s energy system. It’s a method you can use to make it
easier to decide which modalities to use for your pets, even before you
purchase a product or try a specific treatment.
This technique is based on muscular reactions to specific questions,
situations, objects, remedies, or treatments. It’s already being taught in
chiropractic schools and used by a number of mainstream health care
practitioners as well.
 MRT is a way to “read” the body by feeling a response from the muscles.
It’s been said that muscle testing takes the guesswork out of “what to treat”
and “how to treat” by allowing the body to reveal precisely where the
problem is and what it needs to heal itself.
Most of us have had the experience of giving our pets something to eat
that just didn’t agree with them. It was only afterward that their bodies let us
know something wasn’t right by producing symptoms of indigestion,
burping, excessive gas, tummy aches, or diarrhea. But the body can tell us,
even ahead of time, using muscle testing, if a substance is likely to create
harmony or generate imbalance.
Muscle testing is based on the principle that the body knows. Just as your
pet’s body “knew” when you fed it something that disagreed with it, it also
“knows” which substances will agree with it and help it to maintain balance
and harmony.
In a typical example of muscle testing for humans, the person being
tested (the subject) is given an herb, homeopathic remedy, essential oil, or
other remedy to hold in his or her dominant hand (the hand used regularly).
The quantity used for testing can be one herbal leaf, one capsule, or the
whole bottle of a product.
The subject extends his or her other arm out to the side, level with the
shoulder, palm facing down. The person doing the testing (the facilitator)
puts four fingers of one hand on top of the wrist of the extended arm, and
puts the other hand on the opposite shoulder of the subject to facilitate
balance. The facilitator then applies light to moderate pressure downward on
the subject’s wrist using only finger pressure.
If the substance being tested is something beneficial, the subject will be
able to resist the downward pressure and hold the arm rigid. If it’s something
the subject doesn’t need, it isn’t beneficial, or it’s possibly even detrimental,
the arm won’t easily resist the pressure and it will drop. It may be only a
very slight drop, or it may be a drop all the way down to the subject’s side.
If the response is weak—the arm is easily pushed down—the answer is
“No” (the subject does not need the item being tested). If the response is
strong, and the arm easily resists the downward pressure, the answer is “Yes”
(the subject does need the item being tested).
Whenever possible, the testing should be done by the facilitator directly
on the subject. However, there are times when you may need a surrogate to
help with the testing process.
 A surrogate—a person who stands between the subject and the facilitator
—is a substitute person who can be used to access information from those
who can’t respond to testing by themselves. This manner of testing can be
useful for a baby, a person in a coma, or an animal. The surrogate acts as a
clear conduit to transmit the information as long as he or she remains in
physical contact with the subject.
(It’s also possible to use MRT when the facilitator and/or the surrogate
are not in physical contact with the subject, but that’s an advanced technique
we won’t be covering in this book.)

Muscle testing a pet

When you have the help of a surrogate, you’ll be able to use muscle
testing to pre-test the use of the remedies described in this book, or to pretest
any other healing modality you may want to use for your pet.
To test how your pet may react to a substance using this method, you’ll
need the products you want to test, the help of a friend or a family member,
and your pet. The person who is emotionally closest to the animal should act
as the surrogate, while the other person will act as the facilitator.
We’ll assume for the moment you’re the one who’ll be the surrogate.
You should spiritually connect with your pet and ask him to allow you to be
his conduit for the test. Placing your hand on your pet may help you do this
more easily. Remain clearly focused on the animal and allow no distractions.
Proceed only when you feel centered, and when you sense a connection with
your pet.
If you’re working with a small animal, it’s not necessary to stand up. You
may be on your knees on the floor. Or, depending on his size, you can place
your pet on a sofa, a chair, a bed, or a table so you can work at a more
comfortable height.
When you’re ready to begin, hold the substance to be tested in your
dominant hand and touch your pet with the substance. Hold your other arm
out to the side, palm down and level with your shoulder. Be sure your body
feels as if it’s in a balanced and steady position. The facilitator should then
put pressure above the wrist on your extended arm using four fingers. The
response of your arm will determine whether or not your pet needs the
substance you’re testing.
 If the flower essence, essential oil, homeopathic remedy, etc. is not
needed by the animal, your arm will go down when the facilitator presses
just above the wrist. When your arm response feels somewhat weak and less
able to resist the pressure, it’s an indication the product is probably not
beneficial for your pet. But, if your extended arm continues to feel strong
and resists the pressure, it’s an indication that the pet should benefit from
using that particular substance.
Any time you’re testing multiple items, one after the other, you’ll
probably be more comfortable letting your arm relax in between tests. Just
be sure, when you’re ready to test again, that your extended arm is straight
out and level with your shoulder and your posture is balanced.
If you don’t already have the actual substance, or at least a small sample
of it that you can hold in your hand, then write the name of the substance (or
even the form of treatment) you want to test on a piece of paper and hold the
paper in your dominant hand touching your pet. At the same time, hold the
clear intention in your mind of testing that particular product or treatment. It
may also be appropriate to write down as much other specific information
about the substance as you can, such as the exact brand name and dosage
strength, if that’s applicable.
In addition to testing any products or substances you may want to use for
your pet, you can also use this method to identify locations in the body
where’s there may be pain, infection, an unusual growth, or an active or
potential problem within a specific organ or a gland. Simply put your hand
in various places on your pet’s body that you want to test. As before, if your
extended arm easily resists the downward pressure, this is an indication that
the point you’re testing is probably OK. If the arm feels weak and drops
down even slightly, this indicates there’s most likely a problem or a
weakness of some kind at the point you’re testing.

Testing using a pendulum

There’s also another effective method to use when you don’t have
someone available to act as a facilitator. This method has both scientific and
spiritual foundations.
Just as we use a radio to amplify the unseen energy of radio waves so we
can hear music, news broadcasts, talk shows, etc., we can use a pendulum to
amplify the response of our own energy field to the energy vibrations that
come from any substance we may want to test.
The pendulum doesn’t have any inherent powers of its own, and it’s not
producing any responses of its own. It’s only displaying the very subtle
responses of your own intuitive reaction to the energy of something else. It’s
simply a tool that’s used to amplify a person’s sensitive reaction to people,
places, thoughts, and things. What it does is to help you focus your own
attention so that you can obtain information from the intuitive side of your
brain without a lot of distraction from the rational thinking side of your
brain.

The science of Radiesthesia

There’s even a science called Radiesthesia that uses a pendulum as its

primary tool. This science has successfully been used to diagnose medical
conditions, measure compatibility (for example, of foods, medicines, etc.),
and measure the bioenergetic fields of people. It’s also been used to find the
locations of landmines, to find errors in computer code, to detect errors in
engineering drawings, and other significant applications. People such as
Leonardo da Vinci, Albert Einstein, and Army General George Patton have
all relied on this science.
Radiesthesia has its roots in a Latin word, which means sensitivity to
radiation, although the expression that’s probably more meaningful to us in
our current culture would be sensitivity to energy or vibration.
But what exactly is Radiesthesia? It’s the science that uses a person’s
sensitivity to the energy vibrations coming from any objects that are nearby.
It’s used to obtain information from those levels of energy that we can’t
detect with our five senses.
How does it work? The science of Radiesthesia uses a pendulum to
measure even the smallest vibrational interactions between the energy field
of the person doing the testing and the energy field of the object or substance
being tested.
This science has been classified into two different forms.
One form, called Physical Radiesthesia, or Microvibrational Physics, can
be explained by the laws of physics. It’s based on the principle that
everything in nature, without exception, is a vibration of energy. The
pendulum is the instrument that’s used to display the effect of two
interacting vibrations. The subconscious mind of the person does not play a
central role in Physical Radiesthesia.
In the other form, called Mental Radiesthesia, the person’s subconscious
reaction, intuition, or “sixth sense” does play a primary role in determining
the responses that can be observed through the actions of a pendulum.
Which technique to use?
You can use either approach to do the testing you’d like to do for your
pet because the techniques for using either Physical or Mental Radiesthesia
are essentially the same. However, since my experience has always involved
my intuitive ability, you’ll find that the explanation I’m going to provide
about the techniques for using a pendulum will be expressed in more
metaphysical terms.
You’ll be using your pendulum in this sense to amplify your access to
your own Higher Self, and through your Higher Self, you’ll then be able to
connect with the energy of your pet’s spirit and the energy of the substance
you want to test. That’s because the energy of Spirit (God) is always flowing
through and around you, your pet, and every object in creation.
Your pet’s energy system will detect the subtle energy vibrations of the
test items, and this reaction will be transmitted to your own energy system
whenever you’re acting as a surrogate. The response of these natural energy
vibrations will then be transmitted to your muscles, and these subtle
reactions will be displayed through the motion of the pendulum.

More about pendulums

A pendulum can be as simple as a chain, or a piece of non-woven thread,

preferably nylon, with any kind of weighted object at the end of it. The
weight may come in any number of different shapes such as a tear drop, a
ball, a cone, or a spiral. The material may be brass, ceramic, copper, wood,
or crystal.
Usually, the thread or chain is about eight inches in length, with a knot at
the top to hold onto. The length should be adjusted to your comfort level,
and it may need to be changed over time. In the beginning, you may find
longer is better, but when you’re more experienced, you may want to use a
shorter length.
When you’re testing something for your pet, your pet’s energy field is
able to experience the energy coming from whatever that substance is, and it
can also recognize whether or not that particular substance will bring about
balance and harmony, be neutral, or be detrimental.
Your subconscious mind, acting as a surrogate for your pet, then receives
that information. But since your subconscious mind can’t convey this
information to you through any of your five senses, it sends its energetic
impressions to your muscles instead, and those movements of your muscles,
even though they’re visually imperceptible, can then be displayed through
the movement of the pendulum at the end of a thread or chain.
A pendulum should only be used for a legitimate and serious purpose
when you need to ask important questions about you, or those you love. In
the applications we’re talking about, it’s not meant to be used to predict the
future; it should only be used to understand information about things that
already exist.
Whenever you use a pendulum, you need to be totally present in the
moment for the results to be accurate. Being present in the moment is the
same as being in a focused, meditative, or prayerful state of mind.
Practical things to know before using a pendulum
Both the subject and the person holding the pendulum should remove
any jewelry, watches, or crystals before beginning. For some pets, this
means removing their collars.
Before you use a pendulum to test your pet’s response to the various
substances you want to use, you first need to become familiar with its
actions.
Normally, if the answer to a question is “ Yes,” the pendulum will move
in a clockwise motion. If the answer to the same question is “No,” it will
move counter-clockwise.
On the other hand, you may find, for yourself, that a back and forth
motion means “Yes” while a side-to-side motion means “No” (or vice versa),
and a circular motion is neutral, or indicates “No answer.”
Just as it does with any new technique, learning to work with a pendulum
requires an investment of time and practice.
It’s important to remember, though, that a pendulum only displays a
response by acting as an amplifying tool. It has no inherent power of its
own, and you aren’t programming the pendulum to do anything all by itself
when you’re identifying what “Yes,” “No,” and neutral answers look like.
What does happen is that your own subconscious mind sends a message to
your muscles about what those answers look like for you personally. The
energy of those messages travels from your muscles through your hand and
fingers to the thread. This energy is so subtle it can’t be perceived by your
five senses, but you can see it being displayed as the pendulum moves in
response.
Testing the action of your pendulum
Here’s a method you can use to test the action of your pendulum. On a
piece of blank paper, draw a circle with a dot in the center of it. Sit
comfortably at a table or a desk. Place your feet flat on the floor. Hold the
top of the pendulum’s thread or chain between your thumb and index finger
while resting your elbow on the table. The point of the pendulum should be
held over the dot in the center of the circle on the paper. Let your other hand
rest, palm down, on the table. Be sure your body is straight, your mind is
focused, and your energy is flowing freely. Allow the pendulum to come to a
complete stop.
Relax, and let your breath flow gently in and out. Hold your pendulum over
the point on the center of the circle and ask: “What does a “Yes” answer look
like?” Allow your own energy system to cause the pendulum to start moving
back and forth, side-to-side, or in a circular motion naturally. Many times, it
will start by moving around in either a clockwise or a counter clockwise
direction. Once you’ve established how it responds for a “Yes” answer, bring
the pendulum to a complete stop; then ask, “What does a “No” answer look
like?”
Be patient and allow the pendulum to move. It can only move back and
forth, side-to-side, or in a circle. Practice several times for at least a week.
Once you’ve determined your own “Yes” and “No” answers, you’ll need to
re-check them periodically. It’s not impossible they may change over time
because of something going on within you, or because of the animal, or
person, you’re working with. Simply ask to see again what a “Yes” and a
“No” response look like at the current time.
Asking test questions
When you feel confident that you know what your “ Yes” and “No”
answers look like, then it’s time to test them. Begin with simple questions or
statements for which you already know the answers: My name is . . . My
dog’s breed is . . . My dog’s color is . . . I live at (a specific address) . . . I’m
wearing a shirt that’s (a specific color) . . . I’m standing up . . . My dog is
outside . . . etc.
 Ask the question or make the statement in two different ways so that one
time the answer should be “Yes” and the other time the answer should be
“No.”
Be sure to phrase your questions or statements using only positive words.
Avoid using words like “not,” “ isn’t,” etc. For example, if you have a black
dog, say either “My dog’s fur is black” (to test the “Yes” answer) or “My
dog’s fur is white” (to test the “No” answer).
Testing items for your pet
Once you’re comfortable recognizing your own “ Yes” and “No”
responses for questions to which you already know the answers, you’re then
ready to use your pendulum to help find answers to your questions about the
remedies or treatments you want to use for your pet.
Remember to let yourself be fully in the present moment, and ask your
Higher Self to be the bridge to understanding your pet’s needs. At first, you
may wonder whether or not you can trust the answers you receive, but with
practice, you will develop a sense of confidence.
Place the item you’re going to be testing on a convenient surface—a
table, a desk, a coffee table, or even on the floor, if you’re going to be sitting
there beside your pet. If necessary, use a block of wood or an empty box to
elevate the item to a comfortable height.
You’re going to be acting as a surrogate, so spiritually connect with your
pet and mentally ask him to allow you to be his conduit for the test. Remain
clearly focused on the animal and allow no distractions. Proceed only when
you feel centered and connected with your pet.
Hold the pendulum between your thumb and index finger with your
elbow slightly bent at your side. Use the hand that feels most comfortable for
you. Relax and stay focused.
Then while placing your other hand on your pet’s body, hold the
pendulum directly over the item to be tested, and ask the question: Is (name
of item) beneficial for my pet? Or make the statement: (Name of item) is
beneficial for my pet.
Remember you should always ask a complete question or make a full
statement that requires only a “Yes” or a “No” answer, and the question or
statement should not contain any negatives.
How you word each question or statement is very important. Your words
must clearly express your exact intention. It’s not enough to simply ask, “Is
this OK?” because usually, two things are happening at the same time. At the
moment, 1) you’re touching your pet’s body, and 2) you want to know if the
substance is beneficial for your pet to use.
If you only ask, “Is this OK?” and the answer is “ Yes,” the response
from your subconscious mind could mean, “Yes, it’s OK for you to be
touching your pet’s body,” or it could mean, “Yes, the substance you’re
testing is OK for your pet.” But “OK,” in this instance, doesn’t even tell you
if the substance will actually be beneficial. It may only mean it would be
neutral.
The same care needs to be exercised, for example, when you ask if you
should give your pet something “right now.” Technically, your subconscious
mind may interpret the meaning of those words as “right at this exact
moment in time” and give you a “No” answer. That’s because your
subconscious mind already knows you haven’t even bought the product yet,
so you can’t possibly give it “right now.” The more accurate way to ask the
question might be, “Should I give this remedy to my pet starting today (after
I buy it)?”
Another case in which you need to choose your wording very carefully
occurs whenever you want to find out if something your pet is eating, being
exposed to, or being given (for example, a medication or a supplement), is
the cause of a problem, or only a contributing factor. The wording has to be
very specific in order to determine what you really need to know.
From the above examples, you can see why it’s so important to use very
precise wording, and always make a full statement, or ask a full question, in
order to obtain a correct answer.
It can also be very helpful to put your questions in writing. That way, if
you seem to get conflicting or confusing answers, you can then go back and
check the wording you used for each question or statement. This will make it
easier to see if any of the words you originally chose might carry more than
one meaning, or if they simply weren’t specific enough.
You can test the validity of the response to whatever your first question
is by asking the question the opposite way, and also by asking other
confirming questions, or turning them into statements.
For example, in the original question further above, you asked: Is (name
of item) beneficial for my pet? Or you made the statement: (Name of item) is
beneficial for my pet. To test the validity of the response to your first
question or statement, you can:
 Ask questions . . .
• Is (name of item) harmful for my pet?
• Is (name of item) helpful for my pet?
• Does my pet need (name of item)?
• Is (name of item) only a neutral substance for my pet?
• Will my pet benefit from taking (name of item)?
• Can my pet safely take (name of item)?
Or make statements . . .
• (Name of item) is harmful for my pet.
• (Name of item) is helpful for my pet.
• My pet needs (name of item).
• (Name of item) is only a neutral substance for my pet.
• My pet will benefit by taking (name of item).
• My pet can safely take (name of item).
If you want to check the response to your question in yet another way,
ask for example, “Is it correct that (the name of the item being tested) is
beneficial for my pet?” or “Is it correct that my pet should avoid taking (the
name of the item being tested)?
If you feel you just aren’t receiving accurate answers, even though your
questions are properly worded, then it’s best to stop and try again at a later
time. At the moment, you may be too worried or emotionally distressed over
your pet’s condition to remain as objective and focused as you need to be.
Some time away from testing may allow you to re-center yourself so you can
then test effectively.
Spiritual protection
Many people like to use specific intentions to assure they’re using their
pendulums with the right intention.
To do this, begin by holding your pendulum still. Form each of the following
intentions (silently or out loud), and be sure you receive a “Yes” response to
each statement.
• The response I see displayed by my pendulum must always be guided only
by the goodness and love of Spirit (God).
• The answers I obtain when using my pendulum are based only in Truth.
• My pendulum may give a “Yes” or “No” response only if my question is
clearly stated.
• My pendulum may give a “Yes” or “No” response only if the true answer is
known, and if it applies to this present time and place.
• My pendulum must remain still or give the “No answer” response if the
question is not clear, or if the true answer is not known.
If you receive any “No” responses, consider the cleanliness of your
pendulum, and note whether or not your state of mind is calm and clearly
focused. You might also try revising any of the above statements so the
wording is more comfortable for you, but still maintains the essence of the
statement.
Some important tips about pendulums
• Cleanse your pendulum in salt water overnight (1 tsp of salt in 8 oz of
distilled or spring water). Do this when you first purchase it, and once a
month thereafter.
• Keep the pendulum with you as much as possible during the first three
weeks while it’s absorbing and becoming attuned to your energy.
• Since your pendulum does become attuned to your own personal energy, it
shouldn’t be handled by others. Their energy vibrations may inadvertently be
imparted to it, which could reduce its reliability.
• Before you begin using your pendulum each time, have a clear intention in
your mind of what you want to accomplish and why.
• Have a list of questions prepared that can easily be answered by a “Yes,”
“No,” or a neutral response.
• Empty your mind of both doubts and preconceptions about the outcome of
your questions.
• Ask simple questions at first to help build your trust in the answers.
• When you’re testing items, be sure your questions or statements are clearly
and completely expressed using only positive words.
• "Clear" the energy from the pendulum after each question by simply
lowering the tip to your hand or to another surface for a moment so that it
stops moving. This signals that your question has been answered and you’re
now ready for the next question. Use this technique frequently.
• It’s important to let the natural energy vibrations move through your hand
and fingers down the string to the pendulum.
• Some people get better results by holding the pendulum about one inch
above the open palm of their opposite hand. This "opens" your energy
circuits by creating a biofeedback loop so your energy will flow more freely.
• If your pendulum doesn't move very well for you, try opening and closing
your hands a few times to activate the hand energy centers (the hand
chakras).
• If you’re very tired or emotionally distressed, you need to rest and release
the emotional distress before you may be able to perceive accurate answers
to your questions or statements.
• You may find that you often get the most accurate results when you’re
helping others.
• Keep a notebook handy to write down your questions and the responses
you receive when you’re using your pendulum.
***
Using either Muscle Response Testing or a pendulum, you should now
be able to pre-test almost any food, supplement, remedy, or treatment you’d
like to use for your pet. Just remember, each time you want to test using
either method, you need to relax your mind and body first, and then declare
your intention to do the testing on behalf of your pet.
25: Providing for Your Pet’s Future When You
Can’t Be There
H
ave you ever thought about what would happen to your pets if you weren’t
there to take care of them?
Most of us take it for granted we’ll always be available to care for our
pets by ourselves, but sudden and unexpected changes of all kinds can, and
do, happen at different times in our lives.
If we want to assure continuity of care for the pets we love so much, then
before anything happens to us, it’s important to have a definite written plan
of action prepared for them—a plan that others can easily implement.

Who will, or won’t, take over the care of your pet?

Maybe you’ve always been hoping, or even assuming, that certain people
would be willing to care for your pet if necessary, but you’ve never directly
said anything to them.
When it comes to the care of your pet, however, nobody should be taken
by surprise to find out they’re the ones you’ve chosen for such an important
responsibility. They, themselves, also need to be a part of the decision-
making process.
I know from considerable client experience, that if you die, or can no
longer take care of your pet for whatever reason, it’s often erroneous to think
a relative, a good friend, or a neighbor will automatically welcome your pet
into their home.
Maybe the people you’re thinking about don’t even want to bring any
pets into their home, but they’ve never told you that. Or, when the time
actually comes, they can’t add a pet to their family because they’re now
going through difficult financial times, or have health issues you weren’t
aware of.
The people you have in mind might not care for your particular breed or
size of pet for themselves either. They may have seemed to adore your pet
when they visited, but they’ve always known it wasn’t the right kind of pet
for them.
 Maybe you have a dog and they’re cat people, or they have dogs and
can’t accommodate a cat. They might even know they, or other family
members, have potential allergies to your breed of pet that only show up
after prolonged contact, not just during a short visit.
If someone did take your pet to live with them, but they never liked
having any animal staying inside the house at all, they might make a former
indoor pet become an outdoor pet. This could be devastating for a cat that’s
been declawed, or for a dog that’s not used to very hot, cold, or inclement
weather, or not used to being left alone a lot.
Chances are, pets won’t last long in these situations, or they’ll be very
distressed by such uncomfortable new living conditions. In a worst-case
scenario, eventually they may even be given to a shelter as orphan pets.
Any of the above reasons, or the fact that life is so unpredictable, might
cause the people you were thinking about to decline taking responsibility for
your pet on the spur of the moment, even if there was an informal agreement
in place.
Happily, you can usually prevent any unfortunate circumstances from
becoming a reality by making careful plans for your pets ahead of time.
In this chapter, we’ll talk about a variety of things you may want to consider
when planning for your pet’s future care.
These plans should include:
• Naming a new caretaker or owner who knows and accepts your wishes
• Compiling detailed, written information about your pet and the care you
want provided, and having that information readily available
• Providing financial resources for the continuing care of your pet

Providing for your pet’s temporary or permanent care

Here are a few specific guidelines you may find helpful.

• Find at least two or three responsible people who will agree to serve as
either temporary or permanent caregivers in the event something unexpected
happens to you—a bad case of the flu, an unexpected out-of-town trip, a
sudden hospitalization, or your untimely death. These caregivers could be
relatives, friends, neighbors, or pet sitters.
• If you’re having difficulty finding someone to take on the
permanent responsibility for your pet’s care, check with your pet’s breed
rescue group. There are even some rescue groups who’ll take care of mixed
breed pets. (See the About other pet care alternatives further below.)
• Be sure all of your relatives, friends, and relevant neighbors are aware
of both your temporary and permanent plans for your pet’s care. If any of
them are likely to be the first responders in an emergency, give them a list
ahead of time with the names and contact numbers of the people who have
agreed to serve as temporary and permanent caregivers so they can contact
them right away. It’s also important to provide first responders with keys to
your home for use in case of an emergency.
• In your wallet or purse, keep the names and phone numbers of both your
temporary and permanent pet caregivers handy and upto-date. If you’re in an
accident, or you become ill when you’re not at home, and you’re
immediately hospitalized, you or a hospital staff member will be able to call
these caregivers. This is very important for your peace of mind whenever
you’re in that kind of a situation.
• Provide caregivers with written feeding and care instructions; a list of
commands your pet responds to; written instructions about any special health
needs; the name, address, and phone number of your pet’s veterinarian; and
the location of the pet emergency hospital you use. Also tell them where to
find any information about more permanent care provisions you’ve made for
your pet in case these should become necessary.
• You might also want to provide your caregivers with the name and phone
number of an animal communicator who can explain to your pet why you
can’t be there and what’s going to happen next.
For certain unexpected emergency situations, especially if you’re still
taking care of your pet yourself, there are some additional precautionary
steps you can take.
• Post “In Case of Emergency” notices on your doors and windows.
These are often available in pet stores. State on them how many pets are in
the house and what kinds—dogs, cats, birds, rodents, reptiles, etc. If there’s a
disaster, and you’re not home at the time, or you’ve had to leave home
without your pets, this will help rescue personnel find your pets more easily.
• Microchip your pets. If they escape during a fire, a disaster, or during any
circumstances of daily living, it will increase the probability that you and
your pet, or a caregiver and your pet, will be able to be reunited.
• Remember, if someone else takes over permanent responsibility for your
pet, it will be very important to give the phone number of the new owner to
the microchip provider. A veterinarian’s office may be able to help when it
comes to taking care of this kind of an update.

Interviewing and selecting potential caregivers

There are several steps you should follow to assure your pet will have
the best temporary care, or the best permanent new home. Above all, during
the interviewing process, do not assume the other person knows exactly what
you want, and do not guess at what you think the other person means. The
following guidelines may be helpful to use during your selection process.
1) Think about your own expectations, and about any special needs
your pet has. Write them down, then discuss each item with each
potential caregiver.
At this point in the process, you want to be able to give potential
caregivers enough information so they can make an informed decision about
whether or not they’re the best person to take on the responsibility for your
pet.
Think about all of the things you think your pet would miss if you
weren’t there to give all of the love and care he or she is used to. There are
many practical issues that may be of the utmost importance to you, but
wouldn’t be to someone else, unless you tell them.
This might include the fact that you want your pet to be an indoor pet
with appropriate outdoor privileges, and you definitely don’t want your pet
to be shut outdoors alone for extended periods of time, away from the
family, and away from the comforts he or she is so used to enjoying in your
own home. Or you may want your pet to be able to sleep on the bed, or at
least on a doggy bed in the same room, with his or her new caregiver, but not
in a crate with the door closed, or in an entirely different part of the house
far away from any family member.
If you’ll have to relinquish your pet to someone else early on, you’ll also
want to talk about how much contact with your pet the new caregiver will be
able to provide, or whether or not he or she will give you regular updates,
and possibly send you pictures or home videos of your pet.
2) Introduce your pet to any potential new caregivers, one at a time, and
let them spend a fair amount of time together.
Does your pet move readily toward the person in a short period of time,
or does he or she continually move away, or even go hide?
How does the person touch or stroke your pet? Is it natural and loving, and
maybe even similar to the way you do it? Does your pet seem comfortable
with that person’s touch?
Do you feel each potential caregiver is able to establish a loving bond with
your pet that’s coming naturally from within their spirit, or are they simply
acting the way they think you expect them to act toward your pet?
You’ll want to ask yourself these, and many more, questions and observe
both your pet and the person together on more than one occasion if at all
possible. If the person can even take care of your pet for a couple of days to
try out the expected routines, this is often an added advantage to help them
make their decision.
3) Talk about financial arrangements.
Will the new person be able to take full responsibility for all of your
pet’s expenses? Or will you be able to help with either normal or
extraordinary pet expenses with money left through a trust? A pet who
comes with his or her own trust fund may be able to find a very loving home
with someone who otherwise couldn’t afford to care for a pet. (We’ll talk
more about trusts and wills in the next section.)
Will you be able to cover your pet’s normal and extraordinary expenses
from a trust fund, and also compensate the caregiver over and above
reimbursing him or her for expenses?
You want the amount of money available to be sufficient to encourage
the caregiver to act responsibly, but you don’t want it to be so much that the
caregiver might act irresponsibly, for example, keeping your pet alive too
long if he or she is suffering, just to keep the compensation coming longer.
Will you be giving the money directly to the caregiver, or will the
expenses and/or compensation need to be reimbursed on a regular basis by a
trust administrator? Let the caregiver know exactly how reimbursement will
be handled.
4) Let the potential caregiver do the talking for awhile.
The questions you ask should need more than simply a “Yes” or a “No”
answer. They should require the potential caregiver to express a thoughtful
and thorough reply. Plan everything you want to ask ahead of time, and have
your questions written down so you won’t forget any of them.
You’re going to be asking the person to tell you what they envision
taking on responsibility for your pet will require them to do.
Ask the person to tell you what a day or a week in your pet’s life will be like
in their home.
How long will your pet be left alone compared with how long he or she was
left alone when you needed to be away from home temporarily during the
day? Will it be only two to four hours, or as much as eight to twelve hours if
the caregiver works and commutes?
Will someone be able to walk your pet regularly, and feed meals at the
expected times? Would the new owner consider using a pet sitter if he or she
has to be gone for most of the day?
Does the person you’re considering understand that the whole family will
need to be extra cautious about open doors if your pet is an escape artist?
How will the person handle things if your pet’s health seems to be going
downhill? If the person lives at a distance, and your pet won’t be able to
continue seeing his or her regular veterinarian, ask what the person already
knows about the new veterinarian he or she will be using.
If anything happened to the potential caregiver so he or she could no longer
care for your pet, how would they then provide for your pet’s care? Would
they have a definite plan? What are the details of their plan?
Ask any other questions you feel are important. These might include finding
out what the person already knows about your pet’s breed characteristics,
and how the person feels about having this particular breed in his or her
home.
5) Ask the big question
If you want this person to be the one who cares for your pet, ask with a
direct question, if he or she is willing, and able, to take on the responsibility
for your pet.
You want to know how the person feels about taking on this responsibility—
not just what he or she thinks about it.
Ask if the person is willing to sign a written agreement to love and care
for your pet when you can no longer do so.
It may sound very legalistic to ask for something in writing, but it does help
create a moral bond between the two of you. A person who’s willing to put
his or her promise in writing is much more likely to keep that promise than
the person who agrees to do something only verbally and informally. More
important, it may help to avoid the last minute problems that often arise
when someone backs out of an informal verbal agreement. Follow all of the
above steps for each potential caregiver—temporary, permanent, and any
possible alternates.
6) Have a plan for transferring the pet to the new caregiver
You may choose to give your pet to the new person yourself, or if you
were to die suddenly, someone else would then need to be able to follow
your previously written instructions.
Those instructions should include how the transfer is to take place, plus a
list of important documents and pet equipment that should be given to the
new caregiver.
If you’ve handled the planning process thoroughly, you’ll enjoy much
greater peace of mind, and your pet will no doubt be able to adapt to his or
her new environment much more easily.

Pets, wills, and trusts

If you want to protect your pet’s future in the event you pass on before he or
she does, you need to state your specific intentions in your will. What you
can and can’t do in your will
If you have only a will, you need to be aware of the following information.
• By law, pets are considered to be an item of property. As such, they’ll
automatically be transferred to the designated heirs of all your other
property, unless you’ve clearly specified another new owner in your will.
• If you aren’t designating a specific new owner, you need to seriously
consider whether or not the people you’ve designated to inherit your other
property would have your pet’s best interests at heart, especially if it means a
long-term commitment to them, as it does with very young pets, or with
some species of birds who may even outlive one or more of their owners.
• You can’t leave money or property directly to your pet in your will because
animals can’t legally own anything.
• You may, however, leave money or property to a specific person, or to a
specific alternate person, declaring that the money or property is only to be
used to provide financial resources for the care of your pet.
• If you do this, be sure you know, with certainty, that the new owner, whom
you name in your will, actually wants your pet, will be able to care for it
properly, and will be trustworthy to use the money as you intended.
• If there needs to be an interim caregiver, other than your designated heirs,
before the transfer to the permanent owner can take place, you’ll need to be
specific about that fact in your will, too.
Using a trust document

Providing for your pets in your will is easy, but it may not give them all
of the protection they need for the remainder of their lives.
Fortunately, there’s another option available to give your pets even greater
protection. If you already have an estate plan (a Living Trust), you can
integrate specific provisions for your pet into that current plan. Or, if you
don’t need to have a Living Trust for yourself, you can create a legal
document known as a Pet Trust.
A Living Trust, or a Pet Trust, is a much better instrument to use than just a
will because the terms you decide on can be put into effect immediately
when you die. With a trust in place, there’s no need to wait for probate, as
there would be if you have only a will.
When should you provide for your pet in a Living or Pet Trust: It’s best
to provide for your pet in either a Living or a Pet Trust if:
• The designated heirs in your will are not the best people to care for
your pets after you die, or if they won’t be able to care for them
• You’re advanced in age, or you have a chronic illness or disability
• You live alone
• Your pets still have relatively long lives ahead of them
• You have multiple pets
• You have pets with special needs
What to include in a trust for your pet
Some essential information you’ll need to provide in the trust document
includes:
• The name, address, and phone number of both the primary caregiver
and an alternate caregiver for your pet
• Identifying details about your pet: name, breed, sex, age, color, general
description, as well as license, microchip, or DNA information
• A clear statement about the standard of living and care you expect your pet
to receive for the remainder of his or her life
• A detailed description of the money or property that will provide the
necessary cash reserves to support your pet
• Directions for taking care of your pet’s body when he or she dies
• Directions for how you want any remaining funds in the trust to be
distributed after your pet passes on
• Instructions directing the trustee to regularly inspect the pet to be sure it’s
actually your pet who’s still receiving funds from the trust Most of the above
are legal details, but there’s other important information you should also
have ready for the new caregiver. This information will not only serve as a
guide for the caregiver, but it will also help to maintain many of the routines
your pet is already used to. It should include:
• Detailed directions related to food, treats, dietary supplements, and
medications
• A detailed description of your pet’s health conditions
• How often the pet needs to be seen by a veterinarian
• Grooming requirements
• Normal play and exercise routines
• A list of commands the pet responds to
• Actions that trigger certain behaviors—desirable or undesirable
• Any unusual behaviors that seem to be normal for your pet
• Any preferences your pet seems to have
• What to expect from your pet during a walk or when visitors come,
including how well, or how poorly, he or she reacts to other people and to
animals
You also need to provide the caregiver with the names, addresses, and phone
numbers for a number of different types of service providers. This may
include:
• Your pet’s veterinarian
• Pet emergency hospital
• Microchip service provider (to update contact information)
• Groomer
• Animal Communicator
• Stores carrying your pet’s food, treats, and supplements Some of the
information above will need to be revised as your pet’s health, dietary
routines, or service providers change. It should be reviewed and updated at
least annually.

Other pet care alternatives

Using all of the guidelines above, you may already have selected both
temporary and permanent caregivers for your pet in case something
unexpected should happen to you, but there may be times when you can’t
find anyone you personally know who would welcome your pet into his or
her home. In this case, there are other options you can consider.
You might find a new home for your pet through a breed rescue group,
humane shelter, your pet’s original breeder, or in a pet retirement home or
sanctuary.
Choosing your pet’s new home from among these options is the most
important thing you can do to make sure he or she will be well taken care of
after your death.
Breed rescue groups/Humane shelters
If you have a purebred dog or cat, you can find your specific breed
rescue group by checking the Internet, or by calling local animal shelters in
your area. Your pet would be given a loving temporary home with someone
who’s familiar with your pet’s specific breed until a good permanent home
can be found.
If you have a mixed breed dog, there are also some rescue groups
dedicated to taking care of non-purebred dogs and cats. You may have to
search for them, but your local animal shelters usually have lists of these
groups.
If you don’t find an appropriate rescue group, check out the kind of
shelters that take in pets and either find good homes for them or agree to
keep them for the rest of their lives.
Your pet’s original breeder
This is an excellent option to consider if you originally obtained your pet
from a reputable breeder.
If you’ve read my first book, What Animals Tell Me, you may remember the
story of Lady, who was the offspring of my dog Princess.
When Lady was two years old, she went to live with the Woodbridge family.
They named her Yushi, and they loved her dearly for ten years. Then one
day, out of the blue, I received a call from Mr. Woodbridge who was now in
his nineties. He told me his wife had passed on earlier that year, and he,
himself, wasn’t doing very well now either.
Because he knew he was dying, he wanted to find a good home for his pet
ahead of time. He also knew his son and daughter-in-law wouldn’t be good
parents for Yushi. They lived up north and had only big dogs who spent most
of their time outdoors.
He was now calling to ask if I, as the original breeder, would take Yushi
back again and give her a home for the rest of her life. I said “Yes” in a
heartbeat!
By keeping in touch with Mr. Woodbridge, I was able to tell him how well
Yushi reintegrated into her original household, and how well her mother,
Princess, was accepting her daughter again, although they hadn’t seen each
other for ten years.
Yushi’s return was actually a special blessing in disguise for her motherdog.
Princess had been in deep mourning since the mate of her entire lifetime,
Chop Chop, had recently passed on, but it was Yushi who brought Princess
out of her grief and gave her a sense of joy and companionship again.
Welcoming Yushi back home brought happiness to the entire family,
including Princess. As of this writing, Princess celebrated her 15th birthday
several months ago and Yushi is almost 14. They’re both healthy, happy
members of our family.
Many times, a breeder will tell new pet owners to be sure to call if, for any
reason, they can no longer keep their pet. So remember this is another option
for you to consider if you originally obtained your pet from a reputable
breeder.
Pet retirement homes and sanctuaries
There are some large organizations that, for a substantial gift, will
provide care for your pet for the remainder of its lifetime.
Others may agree to either find your pet a new home, or care for your pet
until he or she dies. Sometimes, they’re listed as “Pet Retirement Homes” or
“Pet Sanctuaries.” Your financial help will usually be needed so these
organizations can continue with the heartwarming work they do.
Either type of organization may be exactly what your pet needs.
Some of you may even have a situation similar to that of one of my clients
who needed to find a new home for her cat. The cat refused to use either one
of her two litter boxes in their two-room apartment. Instead, she’d been
soiling her owner’s bed, her pillow, and her carpet on a regular basis.
When I talked with the cat, she told me she was very upset because her Mom
had been dating a man who had dogs. After we’d talk, the cat would behave
fairly well for about a month or two. Then the peeing episodes would start
all over again.
After about a year, this cat’s owner finally had to place her in a sanctuary. In
her heart she was inconsolable, but she told me she couldn’t live with a cat
who repeatedly soiled the main bed in the house. She also felt giving the cat
to anyone else would be an unkind thing to do to another pet owner, since
this particular cat would probably always use peeing on the owner’s bed to
let people know she was displeased.
My client paid handsomely for such good care, and still visited her cat every
week. It was a difficult choice for her to make, but it was one that gave her
reasonable peace of mind because she knew her cat was well cared for, and
she could still visit her regularly, too.
If you have a pet with a similar problem, you may also find your only choice
is to locate the same type of organization to take care of him or her.
Before making any arrangements with an organization, be sure to:
• Visit the location to see how the animals are cared for
• Observe the cleanliness and overall quality of the pet living, feeding, litter,
and play areas
• Note how competent and loving the staff members are
• Observe how the animals are socialized and exercised
• Determine what kind of health checks they receive and how often
Knowing that all of these conditions meet with your expectations ahead of
time will give you much more peace of mind.

What happens when your pet finally dies

If you know what you want the new caregiver to do when your pet
finally dies, it’s also important to include that information in your will, or in
your living trust.
You might say you want him or her interred in a pet cemetery, or you
might want to have the body cremated and the ashes kept in a specific place,
or scattered, possibly over your own burial site.
You may want your pet’s new owner to have a memorial held following
your pet’s death, or notes sent to special people who knew your pet. You
may want his or her remains buried next to you. Whatever your wishes are,
be sure to express them specifically.
If you don’t feel you have any specific requests, then you can give the
new owner the freedom to do whatever he or she wants when the time
comes. If that person will have had a long time to spend with your pet, it
would probably be better to leave any final choices up to the new owner’s
wishes in the first place.
Requesting your pet be euthanized when you die
 Wait! Don’t get upset just yet. Whether this thought has ever crossed
your mind or not, you may want to read further.
Whenever owners leave a request to have their pets euthanized right after
they themselves die, it’s usually based on the fear that there’ll be no one else
who will care for their pets as lovingly and as well as they did. They’d rather
send their pets to their eternal reward instead of leaving them behind to
spend their days in potential discomfort, or without love.
But, even if you request this in your will, the legal system may overrule your
request if your pet is young and in good health, and if other humane
alternatives are available.
The circumstances faced by a former elderly neighbor of mine serve as a
good example of what was very possibly a fear-based decision. She was
thinking about having one of her otherwise healthy pets euthanized, even
though other options were available.
I’d always enjoyed seeing all of her pets line up at the window as they
watched me walk my dogs. Her dog never barked and her cats would only
observe. If the cats were outside at the same time we were, they’d leisurely
stroll past my dogs as if they were amiable friends.
I’d never met the owner of these animals until one day when she was outside
watering the lawn. This was the perfect opportunity for me to give her a
compliment about her pets.
While we were talking, one of her cats walked over to my female dog and
gave her a gentle bump with his head. My dog was used to a cat, so she
interpreted this as the friendly gesture the cat intended it to be.
The woman, however, turned quickly and screamed at the cat, telling me by
way of explanation that he used to do the same thing to her dog, and now he
thinks he can do it to any dog. She also told me she was sick and would soon
be moving into a smaller home with her son. Because her son had dogs, she
was seriously thinking about euthanizing the cat.
I immediately explained to her that I was an animal communicator, and very
possibly I could help the cat stop that particular behavior. I could also help
her find a new home for her cat. I gave her one of my cards and went back
home. I was so distressed just thinking about what she’d told me that I could
hardly function. Why, why would she want to do something so drastic? The
cat seemed perfectly normal and healthy. In fact, he was a sweetie of a cat.
I felt as if I had to do something, so I went back to her house every day that
week, but she was never home. The following week when I went to knock
on her door, she was already gone and the house was empty. I looked around
to see if maybe she’d left the cat to fend for himself, but I couldn’t find him.
This memory stayed with me for many years, and at first, I couldn’t
understand her choice at all, as much as I tried.
But I didn’t have all of the facts either. Possibly, there was more than she’d
told me on that one occasion when we did meet. This situation did teach me,
however, that people often make the decision to euthanize their pets out of
some fear or another, whether that fear is justified or not.
There are some cases, though, where euthanasia may be appropriate. This
might happen if a pet is already very old, or is in irreversibly poor health, or
requires extensive, often daily, treatment for a chronic health condition for
which no recovery is expected—for example, congestive heart failure,
severe diabetes, or irreversible liver or kidney disease. It may be unfair to
both the pet and the new caregiver to insist on indefinite care under these
circumstances.
On the other hand, there are people who do devote their lives to helping
older pets, or those pets who have unusual or frequent medical requirements.
Your new caregiver may be willing to do the same. If so, for in-home care,
an active or former veterinary technician, or a veterinary hospice nurse,
might be able to help the new caregiver provide the full range of care your
pet needs. Additional support may also be available from a veterinary clinic
that has a program designed to help caregivers provide hospice care for sick
pets at home.
There’s also at least one non-profit hospice care center located in New York
that’s dedicated entirely to the care of sick and disabled pets. You can find
more information about this topic at www.angelsgate.org, and by doing an
Internet search on “hospice care for pets”.
If you can find someone who would lovingly care for your pet when he or
she has medical issues, it might prevent the need for early euthanasia.
If you can’t find that type of care for your pet, then euthanasia may be the
most loving action you can request, if your pet’s condition warrants it.
I do hope the information throughout this chapter has shown you there are
many possible ways to provide for your pet’s care so that, even if you die
before your pet does, euthanasia doesn’t have to be the primary option for
your pet.
Pets who don’t want to live after their owners die
 While many animals readily adapt to being cared for by a new owner,
some can be very deeply affected when they lose a person they’ve been close
to for most of their lives. This often happens with pets who are adopted out
when the person they used to live with is no longer able to care for them, or
when the person dies.
I remember one cat who sent me a picture of himself on his daddy’s lap.
He told me how very much he missed him, and how important it had been
for him to take care of his special person just by sitting with him in the chair
or by lying with him on the bed.
When I asked the cat’s present owner about the information the cat had
just shared with me, the new owner told me the cat used to belong to a man
(a relative, in this case) who’d been hospitalized and could no longer care for
his beloved pet.
We had a long conversation, the cat and I. I tried to encourage him to
enjoy his new family, and I assured him he’d be safe and loved in his new
home, but he’d lost his will to live. He didn’t want to stay around any longer
because, without his special person to take care of, he felt his life no longer
had any purpose. It wasn’t long before he simply died of a broken heart,
alone, curled up, and hiding from his new family.
***
My talk with this cat was just another confirmation that, whether we
want to or not, we must think about what would happen to our pets if we
become ill, incapacitated, die, or can’t take care of them for any other
reason. It’s usually not enough to leave whatever happens to them to chance.
It’s important to have a written plan of action to assure the continuity of care
we want them to enjoy.
There are two websites you may find very helpful when it comes to
taking care of your pet’s future. One provides in-depth, but easy-to-read,
information from a legal perspective about how to provide for your pets
when you aren’t able to take care of them yourself. The other offers a
planning packet to guide you through the planning process. The two
websites are: www.estateplanningforpets.com and www.mypeticulars.com.
Whenever you’re searching for a loving home for your pet, where they’ll
be as happy as they’ve been with you, be sure to ask the Universe for help
and guidance. You might be surprised how quickly the right person comes
into your life, and the life of your pet, when you do.
 And finally, know that both you and your beloved pet will meet each
other again when you’re together in Spirit, regardless of who goes there first.
26: How Pets Age — Dogs
H
ave you ever wondered how old your pet is compared with human years?
When does he or she become an adolescent, a young adult, or a senior? And
do dogs and cats age at the same rate?
In this chapter and the next, you’ll discover answers to all of those
questions. You’ll also learn about what you can expect at various stages of
your pet’s life.
When it comes to dogs and cats, in general, many canines and felines
live for about the same number of years, although they do age differently.
Their progress is about the same for the first three years of their lives, but
dogs then age more slowly than cats do between the ages of four through
nine. From about ten on, though, dogs seem to age more rapidly than cats.
While a few cats live much longer than most dogs ever do, there are
several canines, both on and off record, who have also lived healthy lives,
even well into their twenties. One of my editors often used to meet her
neighbor’s dog, Rufus, who was still going for gentle walks until he passed
on at the age of 21.
Besides comparing how dogs and cats age, it’s also interesting to
compare pet years with human years. In both this chapter and the next, we’ll
be looking at those age comparisons according to the newer methods for
calculating them.
Then, because how a pet ages involves much more than simply counting
the number of birthdays that have passed, we’ll look at the different stages of
life our pets go through, from birth until they make their transitions out of
this world. We’ll also consider the many things we can do to keep them
healthy and comfortable, especially in their senior and geriatric years.
This chapter will be all about dogs, and in the following chapter we’ll talk
about similar information for cats.

Computing dog years

(In general, all of the ages listed throughout this entire chapter represent
the thinking of a fairly large number of professionals, although there are
some who might choose to use slightly different numbers instead.)
 For many years, most of us have been relying on the old model that says
a dog ages seven human years for every one year of his or her life.
Veterinary science, on the other hand, now has much more refined methods
for measuring a dog’s chronological age in human years. Pets do age much
faster than people. The following table shows how quickly they actually age
in the first five years of life according to the newer calculations.
Age of Dog Age in Human Years Increase
5 months 10 years 10 years
8 months 13 years 3 years 10 months 14 years 1 year
1 year 15 years 1 year
2 years 24 years 9 years 3 years 28 years 4 years 4 years 32 years 4 years 5
years 36 years 4 years This next chart, developed by Fred L. Metzger, DVM,
Dipl ABVP, takes into account the importance of a dog’s
size, according to weight, from five years of age on:
Age (yrs) 0-20 lbs Lbs 21-50 Lbs 51-90 <90 lbs 5= 36 38 40 42 6= 40 42 45 49 7=
44 47 50 56 8= 48 51 55 64 9= 52 56 61 71 10= 56 60 66 78 11= 60 65 72 86 12= 64 69 77 93 13= 68
74 82 101 14= 72 78 88 108 15= 76 83 93 115 16= 80 87 99 123 17= 84 92 104
18= 88 96 109
19= 92 101 115
20= 96 105 120
The un-shaded ages are for dogs considered to be adult. The darker-shaded ages are for dogs
considered to be seniors. The lighter-shaded ages are for dogs considered to be geriatric.
After the age of 2, the increase is typically at least 4 years for each year
of life, although in some cases the increase is considered to be from 5-8
years when weight is taken into account.
In general, most dogs have reached adulthood by, or before, the age of 2,
and by age 7, some dogs are already entering their senior years. Most larger
dogs age faster than smaller dogs do. They tend to become seniors at an
earlier age and they usually have shorter life spans.
Depending on where in the world they reside, dogs may live to be 11-13
years old on average. Giant breeds often have a life expectancy of only 7-8
years, while medium to large size dogs may live from 10-13 years of age.
Some smaller breeds may even live to the ages of 14-16.
Breed and size aren’t always determining factors when it comes to life
expectancy, however. A Doberman, considered to be a large dog weighing in
the 70-80 pound range, may live to be 15-20 years of age, but a Boxer, that’s
only slightly smaller in the 60-70 pound range, may sometimes not even live
past 10 years of age.
Your own dog may not correspond to any statistics on a chart either if he or
she is exceptionally well cared for, and therefore very healthy, or if, because
of a compromised immune system or other factors, he or she contracts a
serious illness at a younger than usual age.
It’s also true that some breeds are inherently more likely to develop certain
diseases or conditions that will shorten their lifespans. This sometimes
happens with the most popular breeds because of over-breeding to meet the
demand. It also happens to dogs bred in puppy mills. And of course, some
dogs, even within the same breed, are simply born with stronger or weaker
constitutions than others.

Stages of a dog’s life

Chronological age isn’t the only important factor, however, when it

comes to understanding your pets. For dogs, significant developmental
stages happen from birth to three weeks, three to five weeks, and five to
twelve weeks. After that, there’s toddlerhood from three to seven months,
followed by young adulthood, and finally the senior and geriatric years.
From birth to three weeks , a puppy’s strongest sense is that of smell
because neither the eyes nor the ears are open yet, though both usually begin
to open gradually at around two weeks of age. The eyes open between 10-14
days, and the ears open just a few days later. Until that happens, though,
newborn puppies have to rely on their sense of smell to recognize their
mother and their siblings, and to find their own individual place to nurse.
Because their nervous systems haven’t matured yet, puppies can’t
regulate their own body temperature, so a warm environment is essential
during this time. When they sleep, you’ll notice they all seem to bunch up
together. That’s because their body temperature at this tender age is only
around 97 degrees compared with a normal adult dog body temperature of
102 degrees.
From three to five weeks , puppies are still weak and uncoordinated, so
they tend to use rolling or crawling motions to get around. They now show
more signs of alertness, and their eyes and ears are beginning to work better.
The five to twelve week period is particularly important. This is the time
when puppies learn from each other, and from their mother dog, which
behaviors are acceptable and which are not. It’s also a time for exploring
their environment in great detail, so all necessary precautions need to be
taken for their safety.
 If a puppy is handled regularly during this time, he or she will be much
more receptive to human touch later on. For this reason, it’s important not
only to pet the head and body, but also to gently touch the paws, the pads of
the feet, the toenails, the ears, around the eyes, inside the lips, and around
the teeth. By having this type of pleasant experience at a very early age, a
puppy will soon learn to recognize that gentle human touch is a good thing.
This kind of training will make both family life and veterinary visits much
easier.
Once puppies reach eight weeks of age, they’re usually adequately
socialized and ready to leave their littermates successfully. It’s important to
know, though, that puppies who are removed from their mother, or their
littermates, prior to eight weeks of age, do miss out on important learning
experiences. When this happens, some puppies may even develop emotional
and behavioral issues that require special attention later on.
For puppies, toddlerhood, from three to seven months, is a time we can
thoroughly enjoy, but it’s often equivalent to keeping up with a human
toddler. All of the same precautions about general and electrical safety in the
puppy’s environment need to be observed, just as they do for a human
toddler, because they both want to explore everything. There are wild spurts
of energy and rough play at this age, followed by long, deep naps that
sometimes seem to start right in the middle of a play session.
This is also an ideal time for more formal learning, so it’s important to
start teaching the main commands right away: sit, stay, come, walk, down,
off, out, leave it, release, and trade. The following list describes each
command and what you should expect from your pet whenever you issue it.
• Sit—the right way to greet people and to show calmness; always use
this command when visitors arrive, and before giving your pet a meal or a
treat
• Stay—may be the most important command you’ll ever teach your dog
because you can use it if he or she seems to be in imminent danger of
wanting to run across a busy street
• Come—should be used when you want your dog to come to you
• Walk (or Let’s Walk)—should be used, instead of “Come,” to encourage
your pet to keep moving when you’re out on a walk
• Down—should be used only when you want your dog to lie down
• Off—should mean get off the person, off the chair, off the bed, or off of
anything else your dog shouldn’t be jumping up on
• Out—means get your nose out of the refrigerator, get out of the flower bed,
or get out of any other place your dog shouldn’t be in
• Leave it—means don’t touch it, don’t eat it, or don’t pick it up
• Release—means hand me what you have in your mouth, or drop it on the
ground
• Trade—means give me what you have and I’ll give you something in
return
Puppy teeth are extremely sharp, and they’re guaranteed to test out
everything and anything. For this reason, it’s a prime time for redirecting a
puppy’s interest by teaching him to trade one item for another—often one of
yours for one of his. Be sure to use the word “trade” whenever you practice
this special behavior with your puppy.
This is also an excellent time to start using doggy toothbrushes and
doggy toothpaste. Since toothpaste is something a dog will swallow, it’s
important to use one formulated only for dogs that’s safe for them to ingest.
Human toothpaste should never be used because it has ingredients that are
definitely not for internal consumption. It also usually has a warning label
that says even humans shouldn’t swallow it.
A dog’s adolescence, from eight to eighteen months, is often the time
you may wonder why you ever decided to get a puppy in the first place! He’s
now full-grown or at least close to it, has an energy level that seems to stop
only when he sleeps, and he often acts like a rebellious teenager. Some of the
things you thought he’d learned so well, he now seems to have forgotten
completely. Either that, or he’s busy testing the limits of your patience! But
happily, this stage, too, will pass.
As a young adult , you’ll find your dog is now much more
companionable and settled. Puppy craziness and teen-age rebellion have
turned into more of a sense of contentment and an ability to enjoy life
without all of the former hoop-la. A young adult dog likes his routines,
especially when it comes to eating and sleeping, but he also still relishes
work and play.
Your contented adult dog becomes a senior dog around the age of seven
for giant breeds, eight for large breeds, ten for medium breeds, and eleven
for small breeds. Many dogs in their senior years, however, are still very
active and interested in everything life has to offer them. They may be a
little more mellow, and maybe not quite as physically active as they once
were, but several more years may pass until you actually begin to think of
them as seniors.
The evening of your dog’s life, or the geriatric years, will be characterized
by a number of signs you’ll recognize.
• There may be some graying around the face, especially around the
muzzle, or even over the entire body. Dogs who start out with red, brown, or
golden fur may have their fur turn more to white.
• Physical activity levels may be significantly reduced. Walks may be
slower, and going up or down stairs and jumping on or off the bed may
become activities of the past. To prevent the weight gain that often
accompanies less physical activity, the amount of food and treats fed each
day will most likely need to be reduced, and the amount of fat in the diet
should be significantly reduced.
• More rest becomes a number one priority, and sleep often becomes much
deeper and much more sound, so much so that it may take something
significant to rouse your dog from slumber. It’s very important, though, to
avoid startling him out of a sound sleep by touching him directly.
• Hearing and/or vision may become impaired, but the sense of smell
remains strong, and most dogs can easily compensate for hearing and vision
loss with their noses. Teeth may become loose, and nails may grow longer,
but not be as strong.
• Body temperature may change, and skin tone may become thicker, darker,
dryer, or greasier, depending on the quality of your dog’s diet and the
supplements you use.
• There’s absolutely no law that says dogs have to get sick as they age, but
aging dogs may also have to contend with a major medical condition, or
possibly even more than one. This can often be attributed to the negative
effects of the stressful culture and environmental pollution they have to live
with nowadays.
By paying careful attention, though, to even the subtle changes,
especially during the later stages of your dog’s life, you’ll be able to make
any necessary adjustments in his or her diet, exercise, and comfort level to
maintain the best possible quality of life.

Increasing your dog’s longevity

 I know you’ve heard this next part over and over again throughout all of
my books, but it’s absolutely true. While genetics, breed, weight, and size
can all have an affect on a dog’s longevity, the main factors that can
significantly improve longevity include:
• a high quality, well balanced diet without any excess use of food or
treats
• plenty of fresh, clean water (purified if possible)
• regular exercise, appropriate to the breed, with consideration for any
extreme hot or cold conditions
• freedom from exposure to severe weather extremes (depending on the
breed)
• a living environment that’s low in pollution
• a loving and happy home
• an interesting lifestyle with plenty of mental stimulation appropriate to the
breed
• spaying or neutering to reduce the risk of certain types of cancer
• good medical care with regular check-ups to stop trouble before it starts
Dogs who live according to the above criteria are much more likely to live
longer than those who are exposed to any major extremes in their living
conditions, such as dogs who live outside in rough weather conditions
without adequate shelter, those who live in unsanitary conditions, those who
don’t have adequate space for rest and exercise, and those who are fed low
quality diets and don’t regularly have access to fresh, clean water.

Making older age more comfortable

As your dog moves into his or her senior and geriatric years, there are a
number of steps you can take to assure he or she continues to enjoy the best
possible quality of life.
Sleeping accommodations: Be sure the surface is as thick and soft as
your dog prefers. Consider special beds, possibly even with warming or
cooling pads, for different seasons of the year. Arthritic pets might also
appreciate sleeping on a magnetic pad (see Chapter 7).
Proximity to the family at night: Dogs are pack animals and they often
derive special comfort from being close to their favorite family members,
especially in their older years.
 If you have a two-story house, but your larger dog can no longer climb
the stairs, then let your pet sleep downstairs with pieces of clothing you or
others have worn, or towels you’ve used, so he or she will still be able to
enjoy the scent of favorite family members during the night.
If your dog is small enough to be carried up and down stairs, you may
need to put baby gates in place to prevent any falls down those stairs. A
ramp, or appropriately sized steps, may also now be needed for a small dog
who still sleeps on the big bed.
If your dog tends to have “accidents” during the night, keep a puppy pad
on the floor nearby and teach your pet to use it. There are also wraps and
diapers that can be used at night (and even in the daytime) for both male and
female geriatric dogs.
Morning stiffness: If your dog wakes up feeling stiff and sore, very
gently encourage your pet to walk with you around the room or down the
hall to try to walk off that initial stiffness. Dogs who have this problem, but
who use a magnetic pad on the bed at night, often wake up without
experiencing morning stiffness any longer.
Waking your sleeping dog: Never startle your older dog awake with a
touch when he or she is sleeping. An older dog often sleeps much more
deeply and may need time to wake up gradually. Older dogs who are startled
awake by touch, especially during a dream state, may tend to snap and even
bite. Instead of shaking them awake, tap the floor in front of them, snap your
fingers, clap your hands, etc.
Accidents and other mishaps: Older dogs are sometimes clumsy in
their movements, or incontinent in the house. Never scold them angrily for
these accidents and mishaps. Their sense of coordination and control isn’t
what it used to be, and they simply may not be able to help it. Instead, clean
things up quietly with a minimum of fuss. If your dog acts ashamed, speak
kindly and with lots of love, letting him or her know you understand.
Weight control: An older, less physically active dog doesn’t need as
many calories as he or she used to, so it’s very important to reduce the
amount of calories, and the amount of fat, in both food and treats. By doing
this, you can keep your dog’s weight in a healthy range. Extra weight makes
it more difficult for any dog to move around, puts extra stress on the heart,
and predisposes a dog to develop other serious unhealthy conditions.
Begin to use smaller size, lower calorie treats, or break up larger treats
and feed only small pieces at a time. You might even use a spoonful of
pureed veggies (the baby food type is a very convenient form) as a substitute
for some of the more traditional biscuit-type treats. Another good alternative
would be a few small bites of apple. It isn’t the quantity that’s important to
most dogs. It’s the interaction of receiving something special from you that’s
usually enough to satisfy them.
Skin condition: An older dog may experience much dryer skin. To
prevent this condition, be sure you’re providing your dog with an adequate
amount of essential fatty acids (EFAs—the good fats) in the form of salmon,
olive, borage, cod liver, or pure virgin coconut oil. It’s often wise to rotate
the use of these oils. This can keep your dog from becoming desensitized to
them, or from getting an overload of vitamin A from constantly taking cod
liver oil. Many veterinarians don’t recommend flax oil for older dogs
because it’s harder for their livers to process, though some older dogs do still
thrive on it. Brushing your dog frequently may also help to stimulate the
natural oils in his or her skin.
Lowered resistance: It’s important to watch for the presence of fleas
and ticks, or signs of any types of infections (eye, ear, bladder, wound, etc.).
Older dogs are less able to fight off the effects of flea and tick bites, or any
type of infection for that matter, so we need to become much more vigilant
and take care of any problems before they become serious.
Keep life interesting: Be sure your dog still gets to do some of the
things that bring him pleasure and keep him mentally stimulated. For smaller
dogs who can no longer walk very far, consider taking them for longer walks
using a stroller. Pet strollers will keep your pet safe and secure during the
walk because they’re enclosed, but if your pet isn’t likely to jump out, you
may find a less expensive (and even new) child’s stroller at a children’s
resale store. For larger dogs, try using a wagon. The pleasure your pet will
experience from still being out and about will also increase your own joy.
End-of-life decision: If the time comes when your pet needs your help
to make his or her transition, there are a couple of options. You can always
take your dog to the veterinarian both of you are already familiar with, but
did you know there are also mobile veterinarians, in some areas, who’ll
come to your home? This may be a more comfortable option for both you
and your pet, especially if you have a large dog who can no longer get into a
car without having to be lifted. Not only that, but at home you can create a
special sense of ambience by lighting candles, burning incense, or diffusing
essential oils, and otherwise making everything especially comfortable for
your beloved pet and for yourself.
Rest assured, your older pets will greatly appreciate all of the tender,
loving ways you find to make their lives more comfortable, especially in
their senior and geriatric years. And whatever choice you make when it
comes time to say goodby, your pets will be very grateful to you for your
courage, loving thoughtfulness, and unselfishness.

Some interesting facts about dogs

What dogs can see

Dogs often see moving objects more readily than they’re able to see
some other objects around them that are not in motion. You may also have
observed that sometimes dogs don’t appear to see something that’s already
very close to them, such as a toy they walk right past when they didn’t
actually see you toss it on the floor. However, if the nearby object is edible,
it won’t go undetected for very long thanks to a dog’s very efficient sense of
smell!
When it comes to color, for years most people have believed dogs were
color blind, but this isn’t true. Dogs may not be able to recognize as many
colors as humans can, nor are they able to distinguish the various intensities
of certain colors. While it may be difficult for them to distinguish between
certain shades of red, green, and yellow, sometimes they may be even more
accurate than humans are at telling the differences between closely related
shades of blue, gray, and violet.
A dog’s nose “knows”
The most highly developed sense your dog has is his or her sense of
smell. Dogs can even detect scents several days after a person or another
animal has been in an area, or they can detect the scent of only a single drop
of a substance in a large quantity of water.
While humans have about five million scent receptors, a dog has more
than 200 million. The olfactory membrane in a human has sometimes been
compared to about the size of a postage stamp, while the olfactory
membrane of a dog, depending on how large the animal is, may be more
equivalent to the size of a handkerchief or a tissue.
When dogs are breathing normally, they aren’t usually bombarded by the
intensity of scents around them, but when a dog takes a deep sniff, the air
passes over all of the appropriate scent receptors, so that the dog is then able
to gather all of the necessary information.
What dogs can hear
Dogs have a very impressive range of hearing. While humans can hear
sounds that measure between 20 hertz and 20,000 hertz, dogs can hear sound
frequencies that are much higher, such as a silent whistle. However, they
don’t usually hear some of the much lower frequencies, especially those that
are in the alpha range of only 8-14 hertz. They can also hear sounds coming
from much farther away than humans can. For example, a sound we can hear
from 20 yards away a dog may be able to hear from about 100 yards away.
Emotional and sexual development in dogs
Small to medium size breeds usually become more emotionally mature
by around 15-18 months of age, while large and giant size breeds may not
become emotionally mature until almost 2-3 years of age.
Dogs are considered to be sexually mature on average between 6-12
months of age, with females having their first estrus cycles between 6-18
months of age. Both sexual maturity and the first estrus cycle for a female do
depend on the size of the breed. Smaller to medium sized breeds tend to
mature more quickly than the larger breeds do.
mature more quickly than the larger breeds do.
21 days. These are the times when she may become pregnant. It’s generally
best to let females have their first litters only after they’ve gone through at
least a second or a third heat cycle, but that does depend, in some cases, on
what age they are when the first cycle occurs. Longevity for dogs
The average lifespan of a dog in the United States has doubled in the last
several decades. This isn’t because dogs have basically changed in that time.
It’s because their food, living conditions, and medical care have improved
dramatically. As is also true for humans, female dogs often live longer than
males by one or two years, depending on the breed.
Dogs and memory
Most dogs have very good memories, depending to some degree on the
breed. Their keen memory is what makes them readily remember training
commands they’ve learned, recall locations where they’ve buried a bone or
hidden a favorite toy, or be able to recognize a special person from whom
they’ve been separated, even for several years.
Unhappily, if they’ve had a traumatic experience, or been mistreated by
someone, they’ll remember that, too, almost forever. Dogs who are
traumatized or frightened aren’t able to effectively learn until the cause of
the trauma or fright has been removed and the dog learns that it’s now safe
to trust again.
Dogs have a sixth sense
A dog’s sixth sense is the one that allows him or her to do some things
that can’t be explained otherwise. For example, dogs can tell ahead of time
when a storm or an earthquake is coming; they can find their way home from
incredible distances; they can detect the infrared heat that a living animal
nearby is giving off, even if they can’t actually see the other animal; they can
read your moods, or detect a disease you don’t even know you have yet.
Dogs can also sense the presence of spirits, for instance, the spirit of an
animal or a person who has passed on, but who “visits” occasionally to try to
bring comfort to the family he or she left behind.
***
I hope all of the information I’ve shared with you in this chapter has
given you a better understanding about what to expect at the different stages
of your own dog’s life, and that it’s also shown you how to keep your pet
healthy and comfortable, especially in his or her senior and geriatric years.
In the next chapter, you’ll discover how you can do the same for your cats.
27: How Pets Age — Cats
M
any cats often live unusually long lives. Some even live for as long as 20
years or more, and they age very gracefully.
One of my clients first brought her pet to see me when the cat was 27
years old. The client was about to introduce a dog—an Irish Setter—into the
household and wondered how her older pet would feel about such a major
change. This feline was calm, relaxed, and completely unconcerned about
the new family member who would be coming to live with them. As it
turned out, it was the ninety-pound dog who was afraid of the cat!
The same client came to see me again the following year because she
and her pets were going to be moving out of state. The question this time
was how would her now-28-year-old cat handle this very significant change
in her lifestyle after living in the same condo for the past 15 years. This pet
mom needn’t have been concerned, though, because her cat saw it as an
opportunity for another new adventure together.
I adored talking with this very special calico cat each time. She had no
fear, and she was so full of wisdom. Even at her advanced age, she adapted
easily to having another new animal in the house, and even to moving into a
completely new home far away. She finally passed on in her sleep around the
age of 30. That may not be a world record, but it was no doubt very close.
There’s a wealth of important information to know about how cats age,
so in this chapter, we’re going to look at how they age chronologically, the
key stages of a cat’s life, and how you can help them live well and
comfortably all the way through their senior and geriatric years.

Computing cat years

(In general, all of the ages listed throughout this entire chapter represent
the thinking of a fairly large number of professionals, although there are
some who might choose to use slightly different numbers instead.)
For a long time, it was generally thought that one year of a cat’s life was
equivalent to seven years of a human life, but newer calculations have
become much more refined. It’s now generally thought that at 1 year, a cat’s
age is equivalent to 15 human years. By the age of 2, it’s gained the
equivalent of another 9 human years. After that, you can add 4 human years
for each additional year of a cat’s life as the following chart shows:
Cat Age Human Equivalent
6 months 10 years
8 months 13 years 10 months 14 years
1 year 15 years 18 months 20 years
2 years 24 years
4 years 32 years
6 years 40 years
8 years 48 years 10 years 56 years 12 years 64 years 14 years 72 years 16
years 80 years 18 years 88 years 20 years 96 years 21 years 100 years
Some veterinarians, however, calculate the first year of a cat’s life as
being equivalent to 16-20 years of human life. After that, every year of age
is then thought to be equal to 4 years of human life.
Most cats are considered to have reached middle age when they’re 7
years old, and they become seniors when they’re around 10.
On average, most cats will live to be 11-12 years of age. In general, though,
outdoor cats often live to be only about 8 years of age, while indoor cats may
often reach the age of 15. A few will even make it to an age somewhere
between 20 and 30.

Stages of a cat’s life

From birth to two weeks, kittens tune into various scents until their eyes
and ears begin to open around two weeks of age. Meanwhile, it’s their keen
sense of smell that helps them find their specific place to nurse. Even at this
early age, they’re competing with each other for rank in the litter and
beginning to show signs of territoriality.
By the time they’re three weeks old , their eyesight is now clear enough
to be able to find their mother cat with their eyes. Their sense of smell is
even more fully developed, as is their sense of hearing.
It's vital to include petting, talking, handling, and playing with kittens as
soon as possible because this helps them build good "people-skills."
Sometimes, though, it’s important to defer doing this until after
approximately three weeks of age. Some mother cats don’t mind detecting a
human scent on their babies, even just a few hours after they’re born, but
others will refuse to nurse their kittens if humans handle them too soon for
their mother’s comfort.
Once the mother cat “agrees” to let humans touch her offspring, if kittens
are then handled 15-40 minutes each day, they’re likely to be more
exploratory, more playful, and better all-around learners. If they’re not
handled frequently, important skills they should acquire during these first
several weeks may be lost forever. But even if kittens aren’t well socialized
in the early stages of their lives, they will, for the most part, still remain
receptive to new experiences and lessons well beyond kittenhood.
In the fourth week, kittens are beginning to walk fairly well, their teeth
are starting to come in, and they’re learning to play with their littermates.
By the fourth week, it now becomes important to frequently, and regularly,
begin gently touching a kitten’s paw pads, feet, and legs. If you don’t start
doing this at a very early age, it will be very difficult or even impossible to
do as a cat gets older. It’s also the time to begin clipping toenails and
checking teeth so a cat will more readily accept these necessary procedures
throughout the rest of his or her life.
At five weeks, eyesight should now be fully developed, and kittens should
begin to groom themselves and each other. Their motor skills have become
much more refined so they can now run, stalk, pounce, “catch” prey, avoid
obstacles, walk very precisely, and upright themselves again.
In their sixth and seventh weeks, their motor skills continue to improve,
they’re becoming more socially interactive, and they begin to sleep more
like adult cats do.
Kittens are usually weaned at six or seven weeks, but as their mother
gradually leaves them alone more and more often, they may want to
continue to suckle for comfort. Orphaned kittens, or those weaned too soon,
may exhibit inappropriate suckling behaviors throughout their lives.
Once they’ve been weaned, kittens between six and ten weeks of age require
five or six meals a day; from ten weeks to four months they need four meals
a day; from four to seven months they do well on only three meals a day;
and after seven months of age, they require only two meals each day.
Kittens tend to develop a calm or fearful attitude toward people based on the
behavior of the mother cat, so female cats who are well-socialized are more
likely to have well-socialized kittens.
Ideally, kittens should stay with their mother and littermates (or other cats
who can act as role models for them) for at least eight weeks. It’s through the
process of interacting with their mother and their littermates that kittens
learn “how to be a cat” and discover “who's in charge” (where they fit in
order of rank within the group).
Kittens who are orphaned or separated from their mother and/or their
littermates too early often fail to develop essential social skills, such as
learning how to send and receive signals, how to “bite” without really biting,
what’s fair during vigorous play, and more. If they don’t have this
opportunity, they may be poor learners as they grow up, and they may
become aggressive toward people and other animals, even toward other cats.
From seven to fourteen weeks, play is the name of the game whether they’re
alone, interacting with each other, or discovering all sorts of fascinating
objects. They amuse themselves by leaping, pouncing, and chasing their
tails. They delight in ambushing each other and tumbling about together.
And when they find something interesting, they like to paw at it, mouth it,
hold it, and toss it.
Play isn’t just for fun either; it’s an important part of every kitten’s
development. It increases their physical coordination, helps to develop their
social skills, and teaches them the limits they need to observe when they’re
interacting with their littermates.
During the toddler period from three to six months, kittens are more keenly
aware of dominance and submissiveness, and they’re beginning to see how
they can use it effectively with other animals, and with humans.
Training should begin at as young an age as possible, and there should be an
active training program by the time kittens have reached toddlerhood. This
includes staying off countertops, using scratching posts instead of the
furniture, using a cat door, playing fetch, or performing tricks. Kittens can
learn to do all of these things when a human pet parent has the patience and
dedication to be a good teacher.
From six to eighteen months, is the adolescent period for cats. This is the
time when you need to decide if your pet will have both indoor and outdoor
privileges. It’s natural for cats to want to explore and be outside, but outdoor
freedom may not be safe in some cases. However, that doesn’t mean an
indoor cat can never enjoy at least some outdoor freedom.
You can train your cat to adjust to wearing a harness indoors. Once he seems
comfortable wearing it, try taking him outside on a leash. Eventually you’ll
find the two of you can even take walks together, or you can put a long leash
on him in the backyard where he can wander about under your watchful eye.
Just be sure a long leash isn’t going to get tangled on trees or shrubbery if
your cat tends to jump a lot or wander in and out among the bushes.
Another alternative that provides some outdoor freedom is the use of a “cat
run” or cat enclosure. These range from simple mesh runs to very deluxe
models that even include fountains and fish ponds. You can see some quite
incredible pictures by doing an Internet search, or you can find the simpler
models by looking in pet supply and other types of catalogs.
Spaying and neutering should be done before kittens reach sexual maturity
around six months of age. Kittens who are going to be adopted from
shelters will often be spayed (females) or neutered (males) as early as eight
weeks of age. Spaying before the first cycle in females is believed to reduce
the risks of some serious health problems later on, including the risk of
breast cancer.
If they haven’t been spayed or neutered before the age of six months, this is
the time cats will begin to explore their sexuality. Females are sexually
mature enough to become pregnant around five to six months of age, and
they’ll deliver their kittens within 63-65 days. They come into heat twice a
year, and each pregnancy can result in anywhere from one to ten kittens. A
female “in season” will meow very vocally to call a mate. She may also be
high-strung, nervous, and easily become sick because going into heat
repeatedly lowers her resistance and takes a toll on her body.
Male cats who haven’t been neutered may not make the best pets. They
become quite frustrated when they don’t have the opportunity to mate.
They’ll start to spray all over their territory both inside and outside. This is a
natural behavior and it’s not something they’re likely to stop, even with
training.
If unneutered male cats (toms) are allowed to go out into the neighborhood,
they’ll tend to have vicious fights, either because no female is available, or
because they’ll be competing for the few females who are in heat. Their
frustration will also make them be more aggressive toward other animals,
and humans as well.
During the young adult years, even if your pet remains an indoor cat, his
instincts are still similar to those of cats in the wild. That means he’ll
probably want to be a loner who continually observes the world around him
to make sure other cats aren’t infringing on his territory. He’ll also
constantly be on the lookout for prey, even if he can’t go outside to catch it.
To satisfy these basic instincts, it’s important for your cat to be able to spend
some time looking out a window every day.
Cats also crave a certain amount of sunlight—their natural source for
acquiring vitamin D—and they’ll search for even the tiniest bit of sun
coming in through a window and spilling across a carpet or floor. Most will
lie on that spot for as long as the warmth lasts.
They also thrive on predictability, and most cats hate new things, new
places, new animals, and new smells. They’ll become agitated if their human
is anxious or under stress. It’s also at the young adult stage of their lives
when they may first begin to mirror, or even take on, the emotions or
illnesses of their humans.
Inappropriate elimination outside the litter box is more apt to happen at this
stage of their lives, too, when they realize that it’s a way for them to express
their dislike or disapproval of anything from a new cat in the house or
neighborhood to a new kind of litter in the box.
The senior years usually begin sometime between the ages of 10-12, with
some cats aging much more gracefully than others. Knowing what changes
to expect during your cat’s later years can sometimes help you distinguish
between the symptoms of an illness and the evidence of advancing age.
We’ll look at the important signs to watch for during a cat’s senior and
geriatric years in the next section further below.
In the evening of a cat’s life, it’s not unusual for an elderly cat to simply
curl up or lie on his side and peacefully leave this world, possibly while
you’re at work, or at night while you’re sleeping. They often prefer to slip
out of their bodies when they’re alone and everything is quiet around them.
When I’ve talked to them after they’ve left, most of the time, they tell me
their departures were peaceful and painless.
But there are inevitably those times for some cats when you need to
intervene in order to release them from their suffering. This is especially true
if they have to have frequent or stressful medical treatments, they seem to be
unaware of their surroundings, or they have an untreatable or painful
condition and are deteriorating to the point where they no longer have any
quality of life.
Cats are stoic and won’t always let you know if they’re in pain, so you and
your veterinarian will have to decide when the time is right even though it’s
one of the most difficult decisions you’ll ever have to make.
When I talk with pets, they always tell me that the quality of the time they
spend living with us is much more important than the quantity, so please be
sure to keep this in mind when your cat is in the evening of his or her life.
If you’d prefer not to take your cat to a veterinary clinic this one last time,
there are mobile veterinarians, in some areas, who’ll come to your home.
They’ll ease your concerns by explaining the procedure to you, and as with
your regular veterinarian, you’ll be able to hold your feline friend until the
very end. If you like, you can even create a special sense of ambience at
home by lighting candles, burning incense, or diffusing essential oils, and
making the moment as comfortable as possible for both you and your
beloved pet. Your sense of loss may be profound, but your pet will be very
grateful to you for your courage, loving thoughtfulness, and unselfishness.

As a cat ages . . .

There are quite a few signs that will tell you your cat is becoming a senior
citizen.
• Changes in eyesight—the eyes may appear to be more hazy or cloudy.
Bumping into furniture is a very likely sign of vision loss. High blood
pressure, caused by hyperthyroidism, diabetes, or kidney disease, is also a
serious cause of blindness. Vision loss is sometimes difficult to detect
because cats use scent, touch, and hearing instead. Sudden blindness should
immediately be evaluated by a veterinarian.
• Hearing loss—any number of reasons may cause hearing loss, but ear mites
and excessive wax buildup, which are both treatable conditions, are
sometimes contributing factors. If there has been a hearing loss, for whatever
reason, then as your cat ages, you need to avoid startling your senior pet. It's
a good idea to let him see and smell your hand in front of his face before you
touch him.
• Skin changes—the skin may become thinner and lose some of its natural
elasticity. Less oxgen-rich blood reaches the skin’s surface so it may become
more subject to infection.
• Bodily changes—there may be graying hair or hair loss, dull coat, decaying
teeth, bad breath, and nails that become brittle or thick and overgrown
• Changes in habits—
• walking may seem more lethargic
• play is no longer interesting and overall activity decreases
• jumping up onto higher perches that used to be favorite resting places
becomes a thing of the past
• sleeping increases—up to 20 hours per day in some cases
• food may be less interesting because the sense of taste has diminished
• digestive upsets may happen more frequently
• swallowing may be more difficult because there’s a decrease in saliva
• older cats may not be able to groom all parts of their bodies as effectively
as they once did; the fur can become matted or the skin can become inflamed
or smelly
• some cats may demand more attention
• symptoms of senility may include excessive meowing, apparent
disorientation, depression, wandering aimlessly, no longer grooming at all,
no longer using the litterbox appropriately, and avoiding contact with people
and other pets
Other signs may be indicators of more serious conditions.
• Cancer—lumps and bumps need to be checked promptly; some cancers
in cats may be treatable.
• Degenerative disease—signs of arthritis may not be all that obvious in a
cat, but difficulty even with low jumps, or going up and down stairs, may be
an indication.
• Dehydration—this is often a consequence of other diseases, and it can
seriously affect both circulation and overall immune function.
• Dental disease—tartar build-up can result in gum irritation, gingivitis, and
cavities, all of which can cause severe pain and make it difficult to eat.
Dental infections can also get into the bloodstream causing infections in
other organs, such as the heart or the kidneys.
• Diabetes—can potentially be avoided with proper diet and exercise; if left
untreated, however, there can be serious complications including blindness.
• High blood pressure—may possibly be the result of kidney disease or
hyperthyroidism. Untreated high blood pressure can irreversibly affect
eyesight.
• Hyperthyroidism—overactivity may be a sign.
• Hypokalemia—low blood potassium speeds up deterioration of the kidneys,
but declining kidney function can also be responsible for the loss of extra
potassium. Low blood potassium can also cause severe muscle weakness,
including heart muscle weakness. It may cause lethargy and inactivity,
anemia, and loss of appetite, but these symptoms can be reversed by using
potassium supplementation in the form of a tablet, powder, or gel, as
directed by your veterinarian.
• Impaired liver function—though most cats won’t have severe liver disease,
the ability of the liver to do its job does decline with age.
• Kidney disease—kidney failure is not uncommon in older cats, but a cat
actually needs only part of one kidney to stay healthy.

Is it age or is it illness?

Aging isn’t a disease, and it isn’t measured by living a certain number of

years. It’s a natural progression that’s influenced by many factors in a cat’s
life, including its genetic makeup, diet, exercise, and the overall care it
receives throughout its life.
Your once frisky and agile pet may naturally experience some noticeable
signs of deterioration as the years pass, though some of these signs might
also mean your cat is experiencing the symptoms of a treatable disease.
As cats age, it’s sometimes difficult to tell the difference between the
signs of a developing illness, and similar signs that are simply a normal part
of the aging process.
For example, changes in eating habits may signal a decreased sense of
smell or taste and therefore less interest in food, or they could signal the
onset of pain or diseases related to serious dental problems.
A cat’s mental ability may decrease with age causing it to become more
irritable or aggressive, or the irritability and aggression may be caused by
the increasing pain a cat is now experiencing from worsening arthritis or
cancer.
A cat may begin looking for substitute litterboxes such as beds and
closets. Maybe, because of stiff muscles and joints, it’s just more difficult for
an aging cat to now get in and out of the regular litterbox, or even climb the
stairs to get to it. Or, those changes may mean the cat has a disease that’s
causing it to produce much more urine than usual, and the litterbox is getting
too wet and odorous too quickly, causing the cat to seek a dryer, less smelly
substitute.
Another factor to consider is that cats are often experts at hiding illness,
so it’s not uncommon for a cat to have a serious medical problem, but not
show any major sign of it until the condition is quite advanced.
While there may not be a treatment for the effects of normal aging, there
may be an effective treatment for an illness, so it’s important not to brush off
any changes as if they’re only an expected part of older age.
 Regular health exams, including a dental exam and diagnostic blood
tests, are among the most important things you can do to keep your senior
cat in good health. Also, consider using alternative/complementary therapies
such as herbs and supplements to strengthen your cat’s immune system and
improve the overall quality of his or her life.
As your cat ages, it may be important to see your veterinarian as often as
every six months. That would be the equivalent of every two years of cat
age. As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
It’s definitely time for a visit to your veterinarian if you observe any of the
following signs in your pet:
• Bleeding from wounds or cuts, or from any bodily opening, including
the eyes and ears, even if the bleeding seems to have stopped
• Any change in gum color—from normally pink, to red, white, blue, or
yellow
• Breathing heavily or rapidly while resting
• Abdominal discomfort, or any increase in the size of the abdomen
• Lumps and bumps that are new or enlarged
• Open sores that don’t heal in approximately a week
• Vision loss that comes on suddenly, or a significant decrease in vision
• Unusual weight loss or weight gain
• Significant increase in appetite
• Significant decrease in appetite, or failure to eat for more than two days
• Inability to chew or eat dry food
• Significant increase in water consumption over a sustained period of time
• Significant increase in urination (major increase in wet litter)
• Drooling or foul mouth odor lasting more than two days
• Repeated vomiting
• Diarrhea, treated with medication, but lasting more than two to three days
• Difficulty passing stool or urine, or prolonged sitting or lying in the litter
box
• Urinating or defecating outside the litter box

Making older age more comfortable

You’ve probably already spent many years spoiling your cat, but there
are still a number of specific ways in which you can make the remaining
years of your senior pet’s life even more comfortable and enjoyable.
Routines
Cats love regular and consistent routines because they provide a sense of
security. They like their meals and naps to happen at the same time each day,
or a certain window curtain left open to let the sunlight in or allow them to
observe the outdoors. They like their people to come and go at the regular
times they’ve become accustomed to. If their sight is diminished, it also
helps when furniture and accessories around the house are consistently left
in the same place. Regular routines tell them all’s well with their world,
especially when they no longer see or hear that world as well as they used to.
Indoors versus outdoors
Although your cat may have spent most of his time outdoors in the past,
it will no doubt be much safer and healthier for him to stay indoors now, at
least at night. His immune system may not be able to cope well with outdoor
life or temperature extremes, and if either his eyesight or hearing is
diminished, he may not be able to avoid being hit by a car or attacked by
other animals. He may even come to enjoy his new lower-stress indoor
lifestyle.
Cozy sleeping accommodations
Older cats normally sleep a lot, but when they seem more irritable, or
they aren’t sleeping as well as they should, it may mean they just can’t get
comfortable enough to get a good deep sleep. Their muscles and joints may
no longer tolerate firm surfaces, so it’s important to give them a warm, quiet,
well-cushioned place to take their naps. A comfortable sleeping temperature
is also important because older cats may have less tolerance for both heat
and cold.
Adaptations
If your cat can no longer jump up onto some of his or her favorite places,
you might try providing a ramp or steps to make access easier. Even a sturdy
piece of foam (not too soft or spongy) may serve as a step up onto a sofa or
chair. And if your cat can no longer use a vertical scratching post, look for a
horizontal or angled model.
Exercise
A little moderate exercise every day can have multiple good effects. It
can keep your cat’s muscles and joints more flexible, increase circulation,
enhance a sluggish appetite, help prevent weight gain, encourage bowel
function, and provide a source of good mental stimulation. Of course, the
play sessions will need to be shorter and less intense than they once were,
but several short sessions each day will definitely be beneficial unless your
cat is too ill to move about very much.
If you notice your cat tires too quickly or breathes in a more labored way
during exercise, then you’ll want to have your veterinarian check right away
to see if there’s any underlying illness that needs to be treated.
Quality time, massage, and a mini-physical
A massage can be a very tender and special moment between the two of
you. It’s a way to loosen up those stiff muscles and joints and get the
circulation going. It’s also an excellent opportunity to check for any new
lumps and bumps, or to see if existing ones have gotten any larger.
While your cat is in a relaxed mood, you can also do other quick health
checks. While you’re massaging around the head or chin, raise the upper lip
to look at the teeth and gums. When you’re working around the ears, check
the ear canals. Your veterinarian can show you exactly what you should be
looking for. For more information about massage, see Chapter 9.
Grooming
Cats may spend up to a third of their waking hours grooming themselves,
but as they age or become stiff or overweight, they may need your help,
especially with the rear part of their bodies. Regular brushing at least three
times per week will help to keep the skin and coat healthy. It will also help
to eliminate mats that could otherwise be a safe harbor for fleas and bacteria.
By removing dead hair you can also prevent hairballs from forming. A soft
brush is best because older skin may be more sensitive.
Nails will also need more frequent trimming—every few weeks. It’s very
important to keep them from growing so long that they begin to curl under
the paw pad where they can cause discomfort. Not only that, but as they’re
growing longer, they may catch on various surfaces, and that could cause
injury to a paw or leg.
Avoid bathing a cat unless absolutely necessary because it’s quite
stressful for an older cat. If you do have to bathe him, be sure he doesn’t
become chilled. Also remember to check his ears and use a cotton ball to
clean them if necessary.
Dental Care
Dental problems often have an impact on a cat’s overall health, so
prevention is the key. Try to establish a regular routine for brushing, or use a
cat-appropriate dental rinse or dental chew treat to prevent as many
problems as possible. You can use a toothbrush designed for cats, or a piece
of gauze wrapped around your finger. Choose only a toothpaste designed for
pets. Never use the human kind because it shouldn’t ever be swallowed, and
cats will inevitably swallow whatever toothpaste you use. Tartar-control
food may also help, and regular dental check-ups are a must.
Weight Control
Weight control is very important for the comfort and health of an older
cat. An overweight cat with arthritis will find it much more difficult to move
about, and weight gain may be a sign there’s a more serious underlying
problem that needs to be identified and treated. An overweight condition
may even lead to an earlier death.
Weight loss also needs to be checked. It could be a sign of dental disease, or
it may lead to fatty liver disease, which is a very serious condition.
Ideally, after the age of ten, your cat should be weighed monthly at the
same time of day and using the same scale. Sensitive digital scales that
measure in .2 lb increments will give you the most accurate measure. Hold
the cat in your arms to get your combined weight, then weigh yourself alone.
Subtract your weight to determine your cat’s weight. Keep a record so you’ll
be able to detect any important changes.
Nutrition
At this stage of your pet’s life, his nutritional needs actually become
greater because his body can’t metabolize as well as it used to. However,
senior diets may not be the answer because they often decrease the kind of
nutrients a cat needs, thereby depriving the body of the essential building
blocks it requires for optimum health. Because they can accelerate aging and
degeneration, senior diets may even be detrimental to your cat’s health.
The best diet is one consisting of high quality proteins found in meat (but
not in excessive quantities), along with essential unsaturated fatty acids and
complex carbohydrates. It’s important to keep the calorie count low, so
you’ll very likely need to adjust the amount of protein and fats you’re
feeding to avoid weight gain. Portion control is the key.
Vitamin and mineral supplements, especially vitamins A, B1, B6, B12,
and E, as well as the amino acid taurine, are also needed. Enzymes,
probiotics, and zinc may also be helpful, but check with your veterinarian to
be sure you’re not giving too much.
For cats with a decreased sense of taste or smell, try warmed moist food for
stronger taste appeal.
Water
 Fresh filtered water daily (not tap water) from a consistent source is
essential. Water from different sources may taste different, and an older cat
who likes routine, may turn down water that doesn’t taste the same as the
usual supply.
You’ll also want to regularly monitor your cat’s water intake and note
any changes. You can do this by putting down a set amount of water at the
beginning of each day, then measuring what’s left over when you next
change the water. Subtract the two amounts and you’ll know how much has
been consumed.
If there’s a noticeable increase in water consumption, it could be a sign
of diabetes or some other disease. If there’s a noticeable decrease, it puts a
cat at risk for developing dehydration, as well as kidney or bladder stones.
Both situations should definitely be discussed with your veterinarian right
away if the change persists for more than a few days.
Litter Box
Older cats definitely prefer clean litter boxes. When you’re cleaning
them, it’s an important opportunity to observe any changes in urinary or
bowel output that should be discussed with your veterinarian. You can even
measure urine output by weighing the amount of wet litter produced each
day.
If your cat’s limbs are stiff, look for a box that has very low sides so it’s
easy to get in and out of. While a ramp leading into a box that has higher
sides might help with getting in, will your cat easily be able to get back out
again? Also, always remember to place the litter box in a quiet location
where you cat will feel safe.
When your aging cat has an occasional accident, it’s very important to be
patient and not scold him or her for these mishaps. Arthritis stiffness or pain,
as well as any number of diseases, may cause your cat to defecate or urinate
outside the litterbox. If your cat is having a problem with incontinence, try
using a pet diaper.
Reducing stress
Sudden or unusual changes in routine may be more stressful for older
cats, or those who are already ill. Stress takes a toll on the immune system
and may make a cat more vulnerable to new illnesses, make existing
illnesses more difficult to cope with, or hasten the aging process in general.
There are several effective ways to minimize stress for your aging cat on a
daily basis.
 • Provide a safe haven—your cat should have a place to call his or her
own, a place of peace and quiet where he or she can go to get away from
family and visitors.
• Provide multiple litter boxes—place litter boxes in several places around
the house, especially if you have a two-story home and a cat with arthritis.
• Noise levels—try to keep these to a minimum, whether it’s noisy children,
stereos, tv’s, or other household equipment.
• Safety and security—be sure your older cat is protected from the
rambunctiousness of children or other family pets, and that other pets in the
family don’t prevent an older cat from having free access to food and water.
Also think about these important events that may come up, and what impact
they’ll have on your older feline friend.
• You’re thinking about introducing a younger pet into the family. While
there have been occasions when an older pet has actually been helped by a
younger one that’s gentle and not high strung, someone new may make your
senior cat feel as if he or she isn’t important anymore. In most cases, it’s
probably better not to bring any new pets into your home during your cat’s
senior years.
• If you have to be away from home for several days, or for an extended
vacation, try not to board your pets. Instead, keep them at home where they
already feel safe and secure. Have someone come in to feed them, give them
fresh water, clean their litterboxes, and give them some love and attention at
regular times each day. If you ever do have to board your pets, be sure to
provide blankets, toys, or something familiar with your scent on it to make
their stay away from home less stressful.
• If you have to move your cat out of his current home at any age, keep him
in “his” room until everything else has been moved out of the familiar house.
If someone can stay with him, so much the better. When you do take him to
the new house, let him stay in only one room until you’ve finished
unpacking and family life settles down again, but be sure to stop in
frequently to give him love and attention. Continue to feed him at the regular
times also.
In each of the above cases, talk to your cat in a gentle and loving voice
and tell him exactly what’s going to be happening. When you do this, you’re
automatically sending him mental pictures, whether you’re conscious of
doing so or not. These pictures will help him better understand what you
want him to know. Remind him that you love him in a very special way.
Whenever you’re going to be away for a few hours, a day, or longer, reassure
him you’ll be back, and tell him who’ll be taking care of him if you’re going
to be gone for any extended period of time.
***
Aging is inevitable for every animal, but your tender loving care and
keen observation of your cat’s condition will help to provide the highest
level of comfort possible, especially during his or her senior and geriatric
years.
28: Emergency Supply Kits
I
n 2007 the Southern California area experienced a veritable firestorm.
Families suddenly had to evacuate their homes taking with them only what
they could gather together very quickly.
How much, or how little, they could take often depended on whatever
extra space they had available in their vehicles once people and pets had all
been accommodated.
They also had to leave their neighborhoods without knowing how long it
might be until they’d be able to return to their homes again, or even if
there’d be any homes to return to.
Although many people were caught off guard, this experience was a
strong wake-up call. It emphasized the importance of having well-stocked
emergency kits prepared ahead of time, including those for pet care.
If you don’t already have kits made up for your pet, now is the time to
assemble them. Having the items readily available from the lists that follow
could:
• increase your pet’s chances for survival in case of a really serious
emergency;
• provide you with the equipment you need to use in less serious
emergencies, and while you transport your pet to the veterinary hospital; or
• allow you to easily and continuously care for your pet during any type of
disaster, especially one lasting for an extended period of time, whether you
have to leave home or not.
Knowing you’ll be prepared to take good care of your pet during any
unexpected emergency is like having an insurance policy—it provides you
with peace of mind.
Since there are so many items you could put into an Emergency Supply Kit,
it may make more sense to create separate kits of various types. These
individual kits could then be put into one large, durable, waterproof (or at
least water-resistant) container that opens and closes easily, yet securely.
Putting food, water, medications, and anything perishable into one container,
close to the activity area of the household, will allow you to access those
items on a frequent basis (to use or to keep rotated), while the items on the
other lists could be stored in another area where they’d still be readily
available in an emergency. Wherever you decide to store them, be sure
perishable items won’t be exposed to any temperature extremes.

The essentials—food, water, and medicine

(Remember that anything perishable needs to be rotated out of your

emergency kit periodically; otherwise those supplies may be useless when
you need them.)
• Medicines your pet requires—at least a two-week supply
• Syringes to administer any liquid medications by mouth
• Bottled water—at least a two-week supply
• Canned (pop-top) moist food, or dry food—at least a two-week supply
• Treats
• Chew bones—if your dog uses them
• Food and water dishes
• Favorite toys

The essentials—for safety and clean-up

• Pet carrier/crate
• Pooper scooper and/or doggie waste bags
• Leash; also an extra one in case you rescue a stray dog
• Muzzle for an injured dog—overly stressed dogs are more at risk of biting
• Litter trays, disposable—aluminum roasting pans are perfect
• Litter, newspapers, and paper towels

The essentials—contact information and records

• Telephone number(s):
• Your veterinarian
• Emergency Animal Hospital—for after hours care
• Animal Poison Control Center (APCC)—sponsored by the
American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
• Local Poison Control Center—check the front of your
phone book
• Photocopies of medical and vaccination records—laminated or kept in a
waterproof or water-resistant container
• Photos—always carry photos of your pets with you, especially when
you’re traveling, or if you’re evacuated in an emergency. They’ll be
invaluable if you ever become separated and need to make “Lost” posters or
show proof of ownership. A written description of your pet(s), mentioning
any tattoos or microchips they may have, can also be helpful.

Supplies - cleansing and healing

(These supplies also need to be rotated periodically to keep them from

becoming useless when you really need them.)
• Hydrogen Peroxide 3% (USP) for initially cleansing wounds and for
cleaning instruments
• Dishwashing liquid (mild, grease-cutting)—to use on the animal after skin
contamination
• Antibacterial ointment or cream
• Eye solution, saline—to flush out eye contaminants
• Eye lubricant, such as artificial tear gel—to lubricate eyes after flushing
• Hydrocortisone ointment for insect stings
• Activated charcoal—helpful for cases of poisoning, diarrhea, and stomach
or intestinal upsets, as well as for controlling flatulence; available at health
food stores
• Diarrhea medication—For dogs: Pepto-Bismol® or Imodium AD® (Pepto-
Bismol® should not be given to aspirin-sensitive dogs); for cats:
Kaopectate® or Immodium AD® (never Pepto-Bismol®); holistic remedies
include powdered blackberries or psyllium; homeopathic remedies include
Diarrhea Relief®, an herbal preparation from LoveMyPetTM products. Check
with your veterinarian ahead of time for proper dosage to use for your pet
and keep the written recommendation in your emergency supply kit.

Supplies—first aid

• Emergency cold packs—the kind that become activated when broken

open and can be discarded after use
• Blanket or very large towel—for scooping up a fearful pet, or covering a
pet in case of shock or extreme weather
• Flashlight with fresh batteries
• Cotton balls and a roll of cotton padding
• Gauze pads & rolled gauze—both sterile
• Tape—adhesive & white surgical
• Tape—masking, to secure your pet to a board; it’s more easily removed
from fur, hair, or skin
• Scissors—small, preferably with blunt ends, for cutting hair, bandages, and
tape
• Tweezers—preferably very sharp pointed
• Eyedroppers—available from your local pharmacy
• Syringe—bulb syringe, large medical syringe, or turkey baster to irrigate
wounds
• Gloves—vinyl or latex; powdered, powder-free, or latex-free
• Thermometer, rectal—the digital variety may be preferable
• Batteries—for digital thermometer, flashlights, and any other equipment

Supplies—over-the-counter medications

Human medications aren’t formulated to be compatible with an animal’s

physiology, so they should rarely, and in some cases never, be used for pets.
Some may be either unsafe or ineffective, while others may be toxic, or even
deadly. In certain cases, though, there are a few over-the-counter remedies
that may be useful, but only if your veterinarian recommends them, and
approves the specific dosage to be used for your pet. You need to avoid
under-dosing or over-dosing when using any of these remedies.
CAUTION: The following medications should NEVER be given to dogs
or cats:
• Acetominophen
• Tylenol®
• Ibuprofen
• Motrin®
• Nuprin®
• Aleve®
The following over-the-counter medications may need to be given on
occasion, but please obtain your veterinarian’s approval, as well as his or her
recommended dosing instructions for your pet first. The dosages listed are
only general guidelines recommended by some veterinarians.
For dogs only:
• Aspirin or Baby Aspirin—relieves pain and reduces inflammation;
buffered is better but you may use regular; administer with food once or
twice a day; for dogs: under 10 lbs administer with food once or twice a day;
for dogs: under 10 lbs 50 lbs use ½ of a regular Aspirin; 50-100 lbs use 1
regular Aspirin; over 100 lbs use 2 regular Aspirin
• Pepto Bismol®—relieves upset stomach, vomiting, and diarrhea; not for
use in aspirin-sensitive dogs because the formula contains a form of
salicylate; the tongue may become dark and the stool may change color
while a dog is taking it; give 1 tsp liquid or ¼ tablet per 20 lbs of body
weight every 4-6 or 6-8 hours for 24 hours, or until symptoms begin to
subside
• Immodium AD®—relieves diarrhea; not for use in aspirinsensitive dogs,
or those who are sensitive to opiates or narcotics; should be used with
caution in dogs who have certain medical conditions (check with your
veterinarian); give 1 tsp liquid or ¼ tablet per 20 lbs of body weight every 4-
6 or 6-8 hours for 24 hours, or until symptoms begin to subside
• Benadryl®—relieves allergies, itching, or reactions to stings and bites; use
1 mg per lb of body weight, usually twice daily For cats:
• Never give aspirin
• Use Kaopectate® (first choice) or Immodium AD® for diarrhea instead of
Pepto Bismol® because Pepto Bismol can be highly toxic to cats; use 1 tsp
Kaopectate or Immodium for 20 lbs of body weight every 4-6 or 6-8 hours
for 24 hours, or until symptoms begin to subside
• Benadryl® is usually considered to be ineffective for cats, so other
antihistamines need to be prescribed instead
For dogs and cats:
• Dramamine®—relieves motion sickness (do not use if the pet has
glaucoma or bladder problems); give ½ hour before travel; use 12.5 mg for
cats and small dogs, 25 mg for medium size dogs, and 50 mg for large size
dogs
• Gas-X® (simethicone)—relieves gas discomfort and bloating; use one
fourth of the adult dose for cats and small dogs, one half of the adult dose for
a medium size dog, and a full adult dose for a large size dog

Holistic first-aid kit

Many pet owners regularly use complementary and alternative therapies

for themselves and for their pets. The following suggestions for use in
emergencies are based on the recommendations of holistic veterinarians,
herbalists, and naturalists.
Aloe Vera —use gel from the live plant topically, or use bottled gel
either topically or internally, to treat cuts, burns, abrasions, hot spots, bites,
indigestion, parasites, and other conditions; in order to prevent allergic
reactions, don’t let the cut edges, or the outer part of the sheath of the plant,
touch the skin; also, try to keep the gel from touching the cut edges and the
outer sheath of the plant so that the gel itself doesn’t come into contact with
the irritating enzymes the sheath releases when the plant is cut
Arnica tincture —for treating bruises, sprains, muscle aches, injured
muscles, inflammation from insect bites, and swelling from fractures; also
useful for wound healing (although it should not be used on an open wound
without veterinarian approval)
Bach Flower Rescue® Remedy—for any kind of stressful situation
including traveling in the car
Note: Arnica tincture works more on the physical body, while Rescue®
Remedy and Valerian tincture (listed below) work more on the emotions
Blackberries, dried and powdered —can be used as an astringent
treatment for diarrhea
Calendula tincture—can be applied full-strength to burns, or diluted with
water to rinse or flush ears, and to rinse debris from cuts and wounds
Cayenne, dried—is an effective styptic that acts like a styptic pencil to stop
bleeding
Comfrey leaf—pulls toxins from bite wounds, infections, and injuries
Echinacea—fights infections; useful for snake bites because it pulls toxins
from bite wounds
Grapefruit Seed Extract—for treating infections; apply on ringworm,
pustules, and small infected areas; can be used externally like Tea Tree oil;
can also be used internally as an alternative to antibiotics
Herbal salve—use to help soothe and heal wounds before bandaging; apply
to burns, cuts, and abrasions; best when it contains Comfrey
Hydrogen Peroxide—a remedy that’s used initially to cleanse externally
injured areas; can also be given to an animal to induce vomiting, unless the
animal has ingested poisonous products that contain acid, alkali, or
petroleum (see the Antifreeze and Poisoning sections in Chapter 30; Do not
induce vomiting until you’ve consulted a professional except in a case where
a pet has ingested antifreeze)
Ipecac—an herb and its root used to induce vomiting; excellent for use
when a puppy has eaten something potentially dangerous, such as a
poisonous plant
Plantain, dried—pulls toxins from bite wounds, infections, and injuries
(also see Comfrey and Echinacea)
Slippery Elm Bark and/or Psyllium Husks—soothing to irritated intestinal
tracts; also useful for treating diarrhea
Tea Tree Oil—make a solution of 15% Tea Tree Oil and 85% carrier oil
(such as olive, almond, avocado, apricot, or vegetable glycerine); useful as
an all-purpose disinfectant for cuts, burns, scrapes, fungal infections,
ringworm, pustules, hot spots, abscesses, infected ears, tick bites, infected
wounds, and other conditions; Tea Tree Oil does not mix well with water
Valerian tincture—helps a stressed animal relax
Yarrow tincture—acts as a styptic

Essential Oil First-Aid Kit

The Essential Oils Desk Reference mentioned in Chapter 5 is the basis

for the following list of essential oil products to have on hand in a first-aid
kit for animals.
• Some of the items listed below are specific to Young Living Essential
OilsTM (you can find more information about Young Living® products in
Chapter 5).
• The directions for safely using essential oils can be found in Chapter 4.
• The pure oils should always be diluted for use on small pets by using V-
6TM Enhanced Vegetable Oil Complex, Ortho Ease® Massage Oil, or another
high quality vegetable oil or vegetable oil blend.
• Products that contain essential oils, such as Animal ScentsTM Ointment,
can be used directly from the container.
Animal ScentsTM Ointment—to seal and disinfect open wounds Balsam
Fir—to reduce bleeding and pain
Exodus IITM—for infection and inflammation; also used to promote
tissue regeneration
Helichrysum—a topical anesthetic for pain; also reduces bleeding
Idaho Tansy—used for purifying and cleansing; anti-inflammatory, and
anesthetic; promotes tissue regeneration; used for bruised bones, cuts,
wounds, colic, and repelling flies
Laurel—for bruising and soreness
Lavender—for tissue regeneration and desensitizing a wound; used in its
pure therapeutic grade form to apply to burns for reducing pain, swelling,
redness, blistering, and scarring; also a natural disinfectant that can be used
on any cut, scrape, or infection
MelroseTM—for disinfecting and cleansing wounds
Mountain Savory—for reducing inflammation
Myrrh—for infection and inflammation; promotes tissue regeneration
Ortho Ease®Massage Oil—used to dilute pure essential oils when extra
pain relief and anti-inflammatory help is needed
PanAway®—for pain originating from a broken bone; not for use on an
open wound or raw tissue because it will sting and traumatize the animal;
also use Helichrysum and Balsam Fir to reduce bleeding and pain
Purification®—more effective than iodine or hydrogen peroxide for
washing and cleansing wounds; repels ticks and mites
Roman Chamomile—promotes tissue regeneration; desensitizes wounds
Thieves®—for inflammation, infection, killing bacteria, and tissue
regeneration
Valerian—for controlling pain
Vetiver—an antiseptic, antispasmodic, and a relaxant; it’s calming and
stabilizing
V-6TM Enhanced Vegetable Oil Complex—a pleasant mixture of colorless
and odorless food grade oils used for diluting pure essential oils

Homeopathic First-Aid Kit

The following is only a partial list of homeopathic remedies. For more

indepth coverage of Homeopathy and a further explanation of some of these
preparations, see Chapter 6, Homeopathy.
Acontium 30c— for treating fear, panic attacks, shock, burning pain,
and acute infections that develop suddenly; also for eye injuries that result in
inflammation; this is the first remedy to give in case of accident or injury;
give an initial dose, and then repeat every 15 minutes, up to four times
Apis 30c —used to treat insect bites that produce swelling or edema, for
blister-like swellings that are sensitive to touch, and for burning or stinging
pain; also useful for swollen abscesses and for fevers accompanied by a lack
of thirst. It’s safe for dogs, cats, and birds; give one dose every hour for four
hours
Arnica Montana 30c —for burns, scalds, eye injuries, arthritis,
exhaustion, bleeding from a wound or cut, and the discomfort of dental
procedures; well-known for treatment of sprains and bruises; useful as a
first-aid measure for treating physical and emotional shock and injury
Calendula 6x— for stomach cramps, diarrhea, fever, vomiting, and
sores; great for any skin related problem from dermatitis to bites; acts as an
anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal remedy; can be used in
liquid form as a compress on wounds and abscesses (but make sure the
infected opening is well cleaned out and that all pus has been removed
before applying it because Calendula closes the skin rapidly)
Cargo vegetabilis 30c —useful for dogs with bloat, especially if they’re
distended with gas; recommended for exhaustion, weakness, indigestion,
flatulence, poor circulation, shock, and especially after surgery
Ferum phosphoricum 6x —to stop internal bleeding; can be used with
Arnica 30c
Glonoine 30c—recommended for heat exhaustion, rapid pulse, violent
palpitations, cardiac pains, and headaches
Hypericum 30c—also known as St John's Wort; often called “Nature's
Prozac,” it’s one of the best known remedies for treating anxiety, depression,
and other nervous disorders
Ledum 30c—for insect bites, stings, bruises, eye injuries, conjunctivitis,
corneal ulcers, cuts, scrapes, and puncture wounds; also recommended for
swollen joints and stiff tendons, as in rheumatic pain
Nux vomica 30c—for poisoning; also used to treat digestive complaints
such as indigestion, vomiting, diarrhea with painful intestinal cramps, nausea
with colicky pain, constipation, and urinary tract infections including cystitis
and frequent urination
Phosphorus 30c—for bleeding; if a pet is groggy, nauseated, or slow to
wake up after surgery, give a single pellet or tablet
***
In the next two chapters, we’ll talk about first aid procedures you can use
during a number of emergency situations you may encounter with your pets.
29: Emergency First Aid Guidelines For Less
Traumatic Events
J
ust as we do with young children, we often find ourselves in either major
or minor emergency situations with our pets. Since it’s up to us to be the first
responders, I want to provide some guidelines to help you initially take care
of a variety of problems your pets may experience until you can get
professional help.
In this chapter, we’ll cover what might be referred to as the less
traumatic events, and in the next chapter we’ll cover those events that are
usually considered to be more traumatic.
All of the first aid treatments suggested in this chapter, and the next, are
intended to serve only as suggestions to help you during the first stages of an
emergency. They’re not meant to serve as a substitute for veterinary care. In
almost every case, right after an emergency, you’ll also need to have your
pet checked by your veterinarian as soon as possible to assure his or her
health and well-being.

How to tell if your pet is in pain

Animals in the wild intuitively know they’re much more likely to survive
if they become skilled at hiding any signs of pain or vulnerability. Many
times, our domestic animals also try to protect themselves in the same way.
Cats—as well as birds and rabbits—remain incredibly good at
concealing the agony of even serious pain. Some dogs also do this very
effectively, although many have learned to seek attention when they’re in
pain because they’ve already learned that “something good will happen” if
they ask. Most of the time, though, animals don’t understand that being
“stoic” isn’t all that beneficial to them, and consequently they may suffer
longer than necessary.
Because pain can be hard to detect in an animal, you need to “tune in” to
even the slightest indication telling you that something’s wrong. The easy
clues are the yipping, barking, moaning, and meowing scream, but it takes
an attentive pet parent to pick up on some of the more subtle and harderto-
recognize signs.
The following symptoms are often associated with pain, and they may
indicate that something serious is happening:
• An anxious facial expression
• A change in sleeping habits
• Any change in an animal’s behavior or gait
• Repeated focus on a particular part of the body (licking it or looking at it
frequently)
• An abdomen that seems to be painful when pressed on
• Loss of appetite
• Depression
• Extreme restlessness and/or the inability to find a comfortable position
• Moving around less, or being less playful—may possibly be a sign of
arthritis pain
• Limping—if it’s not related to a known injury, limping could be indicative
of cancer of the bone, especially in a young, vibrant, healthy dog
Seek professional help as soon as possible for any of these symptoms,
especially if you’re not sure of the cause. It’s also important to take your
pet(s) in for regular check-ups so the veterinarian can detect any signs of
pain you may not have noticed.

Some helpful tips

• Body Temperature—Normal body temperature for a dog or a cat

ranges between 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit (38.1°C) and 102.5 degrees
Fahrenheit (39.2°C). Take your pet to a veterinarian immediately if his or
her temperature falls below 99 degrees Fahrenheit (37.2°C). This is
considered extremely serious.
• Medication Rule of Thumb—Never give human remedies to your pet
without checking with your veterinarian first.
If you can’t ask your veterinarian in an emergency, but you already know
the medicine is safe to use for an animal, give only child-size doses, or give
a quarter of an adult-size dose for a small dog and incrementally larger size
doses for medium and larger size dogs. The dose for cats is often the same as
it is for a small size dog.
See the section entitled Supplies—Over-The-Counter Medications in
Chapter 28, Emergency Supply Kits, for further information about using
OTC medications for pets.
• Medications Toxic to Dogs and Cats—Never give Acetaminophen,
Tylenol®, Ibuprofen, Motrin®, Nuprin®, and Aleve® to either dogs or cats.
These may cause kidney failure.
• Medications Toxic to Cats—Aspirin, Tylenol®, and Acetaminophen are
extremely toxic to cats. Their livers can’t produce the enzymes necessary to
metabolize these drugs efficiently.
• Medications Toxic to Dogs—Everything on the “Medications Toxic to
Dogs and Cats” list above should never be given to dogs. Aspirin is ok to use
for dogs, although it shouldn’t be used on a long term basis because it can
cause stomach distress.
• Transporting—See directions in Chapter 30 under BROKEN BONES.

List of conditions

The first rule of dealing with an emergency, or any problematic situation,

is to stay as calm as possible and concentrate on what needs to be done.
Your pet may not understand what’s happening, but the calmness of your
manner will be reassuring.
ABRASIONS AND MINOR CUTS
Symptoms: Scrapes and minor cuts are usually at least somewhat
painful, so look for obvious signs of pain, as well as reddened areas, or
places where the fur has been disturbed or is missing. It may also be
necessary to check under the fur. Minor cuts and scrapes shouldn’t have
much, if any, bleeding.
Treatment: Most superficial scrapes and abrasions, no larger than an
inch or two in size, can be treated with first aid. Larger or deeper wounds do
require professional medical help. (See both LACERATIONS and
WOUNDS below.)
Be sure your hands and instruments are clean, then gently clip or shave
the fur away from the affected area. Fur (or hair) in a cut, especially a deeper
one, can lead to contamination and delayed healing.
Although it may be painful, it’s very important to cleanse the area well
before applying any salves, ointments, or bandages.
Cleanse the area initially using only water, hydrogen peroxide, or even
pure saline solution for contact lenses. Water applied with a syringe can be
useful for cleaning deeper cuts.
If the bleeding is profuse, don’t use hydrogen peroxide because it may
make it even more difficult to get the bleeding under control.
After cleansing, apply an antibacterial cream, such as Neosporin®,
Polysporin®, or Bacitracin®, 3-4 times a day. These medications, in the
amount normally applied to an abrasion or a cut, are relatively safe, even if
the pet does lick some of the cream.
If you prefer holistic first aid remedies, Aloe Vera Gel, an herbal salve
containing Comfrey leaf, or essential oils, such as pure therapeutic grade
Tea Tree or Lavender oil, can be used instead of antibacterial cream. Even if
a pet ingests any of these products by licking them, they aren’t harmful.
If necessary, apply a wrap over the abrasion, or use an Elizabethan collar
(described further below) to keep a pet from licking, chewing, or scratching
the affected area.
Most cuts and abrasions, if they’re not deep and gaping, will show
improvement within 3 days. If you don’t see improvement, be sure to consult
your veterinarian. If, after 3 days, the affected area is moist, draining, or has
reddened and/or swollen edges, it definitely needs to be examined by a
professional.
The edges of a cut may be cleaned daily with warm water to soften any
crusts, but don’t scrub the healing cut. Avoid using hydrogen peroxide after
the initial cleansing because, even when it’s diluted, it may be irritating to
newly healing tissues.
ALLERGIES
Some of the causes of an allergic reaction include: food, medications,
plants, grass, fertilizers, fleas, ticks, insect bites, and stings. If a pet is
infested with fleas or ticks, seek medical attention because this may lead to
serious health problems if left untreated.
Symptoms: Allergy symptoms, depending on the cause, may include
lethargy, red skin, reddened eyes, painful areas, missing hair, excess
shedding, biting or licking at itchy skin or paw pads, or chewing as if to tear
the hair away from the legs or other areas of the body.
Treatment: The first line of treatment is to try to eliminate the offending
substance if you can identify it.
For very severe allergies, veterinarians can prescribe medications that
may help relieve the itching.
Bathing with a soothing, moisturizing pet shampoo, designed to relieve skin
discomfort, will help with certain types of allergy symptoms.
Topically, a warm solution of Green Tea applied to an affected area may also
relieve some types of allergic symptoms.
To prepare a green tea rinse:
• Bring one quart of fresh water to a boil
• Add ½ cup of green tea if using loose leaves, or use four tea bags
• Simmer for 5 minutes
• Remove from heat, cover, and let steep until it cools
• Strain if necessary and freely apply the liquid to the affected area
• It’s ok if an animal also wants to drink some of the tea
• Store in the refrigerator, but bring closer to room temperature before using
again
For pollen allergies, it may help to clean your pet’s feet and legs after a walk
by wiping them with a damp cloth or an alcohol-free baby wipe. You may
also use running water, but it’s better not to immerse the pet in water for any
length of time because “soaking” may cause even more pollens to be
absorbed through the skin. Dry the pet’s feet and legs thoroughly each time
after you wash them.
For a food allergy diet, see Chapter 9 in Book Two of the For Pet’s Sake,
Do Something! series. For holistic products and methods of treating
allergies, you’ll find guidelines at several websites. One of the more helpful
sites my editor found is www.askariel.com.
BITES AND STINGS
(Also see SNAKE BITES in the next chapter.)
Symptoms: Pain, swelling, redness, muscle contractions, fever; irritated
area or open sore on the skin; pawing at the face; snapping in the air;
difficulty breathing. Symptoms can vary according to the culprit—spiders,
wood ticks, bees, wasps, yellow jackets, or ants. They can cause allergic
reactions in pets just as they do in humans.
Sharp pain at the site is a sign of stings by tarantulas, black widow
spiders, and Missouri brown spiders. The stings of centipedes and scorpions
cause local reaction and, at times, a severe illness; their stings heal slowly.
The bite of a female wood tick can occasionally cause paralysis.
Symptoms from the bites of spiders, ants, and scorpions may not appear
until 3-4 days later. These may include fever, paleness, vomiting, shock, and
blood in the urine.
 If the pain is severe, or if the animal has been stung many times (for
example by a colony of ants or a swarm of bees, wasps, or yellow jackets),
the animal can develop chills, fever, or labored breathing, or go into shock as
a result of absorbing so many toxins.
Treatment: Take your pet to the veterinarian right away if any of the
following conditions are present:
• there are signs of an acute hypersensitivity or a toxic reaction;
• the sting is near the head, neck, or throat area; or
• you’re unable to identify the insect.
First aid measures: If possible, capture the insect, or at least identify it.
• Remove a stinger, if it’s accessible, using fine-point tweezers.
• Make a paste of baking soda and apply it directly to the sting.
• Ice packs and cool compresses can help relieve the stinging sensation,
swelling, and pain. Wrap ice in a towel and place it over the affected area,
but don’t leave the ice in place for too long at any one time.
• Child-size doses of Benadryl® may also be helpful for dogs.
• Calamine lotion relieves itching, and hydrocortisone ointment helps the
healing process following insect stings.
• If a tick is removed within 24 hours, the chances of it transmitting Lyme
disease or other infections are much less. Use fine-point tweezers to grasp
the tick as close to its head as possible without squeezing the body. Pull
gently to avoid squeezing more venom in, and /or breaking off only a part of
the tick leaving the head and/or body firmly embedded. This can result in an
infection. After removing the tick, use disinfectant to clean not only the site
of the bite, but also your hands and the tweezers.
BITE WOUNDS
(See the two sections on LACERATIONS and WOUNDS below.) BURNS
These may be caused by heat, chemicals, hot water, electric shocks, and
radiation. Sunburn is an example of a radiation burn. Electric shocks can
cause burns if puppies chew on electric cords. The same is true for animals
who come into contact with downed wires or who are struck by lightning.
Burns are sometimes concealed by fur, so be sure to check the skin under the
fur carefully.
Symptoms: The burn may feel like a thickened or hardened area under
the fur. The animal may lick or scratch at the affected area, though there
may, or may not, be pain. If a burn is not seen early on, the fur and skin may
subsequently peel away, leaving a deep, weeping sore. An animal who has
suffered a burn may also become weak from dehydration, develop an
infection, or become depressed.
Damage to the skin depends upon the length and intensity of exposure.
With superficial burns, there can be redness of the skin, sometimes blisters,
and perhaps slight swelling and tenderness at the site of the burn. With deep
burns, the skin may appear white, the hair will come out easily when pulled,
and the pain will be severe.
Treatment: For small burns, flush the area immediately with cool water.
Apply cold water soaks or ice packs for 20 minutes to relieve the pain.
Using clean instruments, clip fur or hair away from the burned area.
Wash gently with a mild, grease-cutting dishwashing liquid and blot dry.
Apply antibacterial ointment, cream, or an herbal salve containing Comfrey.
Pure aloe vera gel and pure therapeutic grade Lavender oil are also good
healing agents for burns. Check the Lavender oil label carefully to be sure
the oil is Lavandula Angustifolia. Never use an oil labeled Lavender if it
contains Lavendin (Lavandula x Hybrida) because Lavendin can make a
burn much worse. Protect the treated area by applying a loosefitting gauze
dressing.
Chemical burns need to be flushed with copious amounts of water. If
you have a gentle pet shampoo available, lather the animal and leave the
lather on for 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Rinse the burned area again
in a saline solution, then cover it with an antibiotic ointment. It may become
necessary to cover the burn with a wrap. (A section on Bandaging follows
WOUNDS, below.)
Acid burns on the skin should first be rinsed with copious amounts of
water. Acid then needs to be neutralized by rinsing with a baking soda
solution made with four tablespoons of baking soda to a pint of water.
Alkali burns on the skin should also first be rinsed with copious
amounts of water. Alkali then needs to be neutralized by rinsing with a
vinegar solution made with one part vinegar and four parts water.
Electrical burns should be covered with an antibiotic ointment. Also
cover with a wrap if a pet wants to lick or scratch the area.
Electric current damages the capillaries of the lungs and leads to the
accumulation of fluid in the air sacs (pulmonary edema). Pulmonary edema
must be treated by a veterinarian who can also determine whether the
electric shock has caused any heart damage.
If you see fluid seeping from the damaged area, this can lead to shock, so get
medical help immediately. If your pet is unconscious, and not breathing,
administer artificial respiration (see CPR in the next chapter). For all types
of burns, it’s important to get follow-up care promptly to avoid the possibility
of dehydration and infections.
CHOCOLATE TOXICITY
Even in small quantities, chocolate may be toxic to your pet because it
contains theobromine, a substance that cannot readily be metabolized. Dark
chocolate is more toxic than milk chocolate.
Symptoms : Vomiting and diarrhea (moderate to severe); nervousness or
excitability; muscle tremors and/or seizures; heart failure.
Treatment : If you can’t get to the veterinarian right away, and if the
chocolate was ingested within the previous six hours, then induce vomiting
by administering 1 teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide mixed with 1 teaspoon of
milk, if milk is available.
If milk is not available, administer the hydrogen peroxide alone using a
dropper.
If vomiting doesn’t occur within 10 minutes, try giving hydrogen peroxide
up to two more times, and get to the vet as soon as you can.
DEHYDRATION
Dehydration usually results from a loss of both body fluids and electrolytes
(sodium, potassium, and chloride).
Symptoms: Dryness of the mouth; loss of skin elasticity (you can check
for this by picking the skin up into a fold along the back; if the skin stays up
in a ridge instead of springing back down into place, that’s a sign of
dehydration). Later stage signs are sunken eyes and collapse of the
circulatory system. Watch for dehydration during illness, fever, episodes of
prolonged vomiting and diarrhea, or in the case of burns.
Treatment: Seek veterinary attention right away if your animal is
noticeably dehydrated. Having your pet drink water is not enough! Fluids
may need to be administered subcutaneously (under the skin), although in
severe cases, intravenous fluids may be necessary to replace lost body fluids
and restore mineral balance, as well as skin elasticity.
DIARRHEA
Soft, or slightly loose, stools don’t usually constitute diarrhea. By
definition, diarrhea is the frequent and repetitive passage of loose watery
stool. Causes may include dietary changes, intestinal or other infections,
parasites, poisons, the ingestion of foreign bodies, or eating certain types of
human foods, including milk products.
Symptoms: Loose watery stools, loss of appetite, pain in the abdominal
area, weakness, agitation, and possibly vomiting. Bloody diarrhea, with
severe straining, may be an emergency, especially for cats and small breeds
of dogs. Diarrhea, along with vomiting, can be a sign of serious intestinal
obstruction that may even need surgery.
Treatment: Because prolonged diarrhea can be deadly, you’ll need to
consult your veterinarian if initial home treatment brings about no
improvement. Always try to bring along a stool sample to be checked, just in
case worms or other parasites, such as giardia, are a factor.
For dogs , use Pepto-Bismol®, Imodium AD®, or Kaopectate®. (Don’t
use Pepto Bismol® for an aspirin-sensitive dog because it contains a form of
salicylate.) Choose liquid, tablet, or capsule form depending on which is
easiest to administer. In liquid form, use 1-2 teaspoons for dogs weighing
less than 20 pounds; use 3-4 teaspoons for dogs weighing 20 pounds or
more. In tablet or capsule form, use a child-size dose, or ¼ of the adult dose.
Repeat every 4-6 hours for adult dogs. Diarrhea in puppies is even more
serious than it is in adult dogs so you’ll need to repeat the dosage as often as
every 2-4 hours for puppies who are less than 14 weeks old. Use ½ to 1
teaspoon, depending on the size of the puppy.
For cats , use Kaopectate®. Do not use Pepto-Bismol® because it can be
toxic to cats. Inserting a syringe at the side of the mouth may make liquid
Kaopectate® easier to administer to a cat than either tablets or capsules.
Holistic remedies include powdered blackberries, psyllium, and Diarrhea
Relief® (an herbal preparation from LoveMyPetTM products).
If your pet is also vomiting, withhold both food and water. If your pet is not
vomiting, do not withhold water. The length of time for withholding food
depends on the age and overall health of your pet. It shouldn’t be withheld
for more than 12 hours for larger pets, and even less than that amount of
time for very small or young pets, elderly pets, or pets with diabetes. Your
veterinarian can advise how soon feeding should be resumed on an
individual case basis.
When you begin feeding again, start with a very soft, bland diet as
recommended in the VOMITING section below. Avoid any dairy products.
Serve small quantities at first, then gradually increase the amount. You can
try resuming your pet’s normal diet when his or her stools have returned to
normal.
HOT SPOTS
These focal skin infections, also called acute moist dermatitis, appear
suddenly and are wet circular patches of infection on the skin that, although
not associated with burns, actually feel warm to the touch. Hot spots can be
the result of a flea, tick, or insect bite, or a mild abrasion. They can also
result from excess moisture on the skin, or from excessive licking and
chewing. Hot spots can spread very rapidly across the skin surface and
beneath the fur or hair.
Symptoms: Look for round, red, moist (probably oozing) patches.
They’re painful, feel warm to the touch, and are sometimes difficult to see
beneath the fur or hair. Hot spots create intense itching and irritation, so
watch for licking and chewing at the site. There may also be hair loss or
sticky hair.
Treatment: Using clean instruments, trim the fur around the affected
area to allow more air to assist with drying.
Daily cleaning of the hot spot with hydrogen peroxide or sterile saline, even
every two hours for the first day or two, will speed up the healing. Also, any
topical anti-bacterial ointment such as Neosporin®, Polysporin®, or
Bacitracin®, will arrest the growth of the bacteria.
Holistic remedies that might also help hot spots include Aloe Vera Gel or an
herbal salve containing Comfrey. The therapeutic grade essential oils of
Lavender, Roman Chamomile, and Rosewood, or Animal ScentsTM
Ointment from Young Living Essential OilsTM may also be helpful. (See
Chapter 5, Selecting Essential Oils for Your Pets.)
These skin lesions can take a week to finally dry and look as if they’re going
to heal. Once they’re no longer oozing, it’s sufficient to simply keep the area
clean. The fur begins to grow back (sometimes in a different color) within
two weeks. If your pet won’t stop licking or chewing the affected areas, you
may need to use an Elizabethan collar (described in the section entitled
Bandaging, following the WOUND section below) to protect any hot spots
until they heal.
LACERATIONS
Deep cuts, or very long cuts, usually require assessment and suturing by
your veterinarian. Do not give “pain killers” before talking to the doctor.
Plan on some surgery whenever deep lacerations occur because sometimes
severed muscles, tendons, or nerves will need to be reattached.
Symptoms: Your pet may come running to you yelping or crying out in
pain. Licking at a specific area may also be a sign.
Treatment: Since deep cuts should be evaluated by a veterinarian, transport
your pet to the veterinarian or emergency clinic as soon as possible.
If you can’t get there right away, gently clean the cut with cool water,
hydrogen peroxide, or even saline solution for contact lenses, and apply a
topical antibiotic before bandaging snugly.
Minor bleeding can be controlled by placing an absorbent piece of cloth on
the wound and applying gentle pressure. A towel, a washcloth, a clean sock,
or a sanitary napkin may all be useful.
Effective herbal styptics that may also help stop bleeding are dried Cayenne
or Yarrow tincture.
If the bleeding doesn’t stop in 5 minutes, you’ll want to transport the injured
animal to a veterinary hospital right away.
STINGS
(Refer to the section about BITES AND STINGS, above.)
STRING, FOIL, AND OTHER FOREIGN OBJECTS
If a pet ingests objects such as dental floss, string, Christmas tree tinsel,
yarn, foil, steel wool pads, clothing, etc., some items may exit normally
while others will become fully or partially trapped in the digestive system.
Many, if not most, of these situations will require veterinary attention.
Symptoms : A pet may show signs of gastrointestinal distress while the
object is passing through, or be unable to evacuate it fully in a bowel
movement.
Treatment : If the end of such an object appears to be coming out of the
anus, don’t pull on it; seek veterinary help immediately. The object may be
trapped elsewhere in the intestine and pulling on it could cause internal
injury or other complications.
URINARY TRACT, BLADDER, AND KIDNEY PROBLEMS
Not all urinary tract infections are serious, but they definitely have the
potential to become so if left untreated for too long. Since urinary tract
challenges don’t usually lend themselves well to first aid treatment or herbal
remedies, it’s important to have your pet examined by his or her veterinarian
as soon as you notice any of the typical signs.
 Ordinary bladder and urinary tract infections can usually be treated with
antibiotics, but sometimes there’s a much more serious reason for the
discomfort your pet is experiencing. This condition involves stones in the
kidney, bladder, or urinary tract and requires immediate veterinary attention
before the problem becomes life-threatening.
Symptoms: These may include frequent urination, urinating in unusual
or inappropriate places, unwillingness to urinate at the usual times, and
straining and/or crying while posturing to urinate because of pain. There
may also be tenderness in the lower abdominal area, lethargy, fever, or
increased thirst. Also watch for cloudy, bloody, or foul smelling urine.
In cats, urinary tract infections are often mistaken for behavioral issues,
especially when a well-behaved cat stops using the litter box. It’s important
to rule out any medical cause first before deciding the problem is only
behavioral.
Treatment: If your pet has one or more of the symptoms listed above,
have your veterinarian determine right away if your pet has an infection that
should be treated with antibiotics, or if he or she has a more serious
condition.
Special considerations:
• Not urinating at all, or trying to urinate without producing any urine,
constitutes an emergency. There may be an obstruction of the urethra caused
by minerals or small stones, especially in male dogs and cats.
• Blockages can be life-threatening because toxins that would
normally be eliminated through urination begin to accumulate in the
pet’s system. These toxins can cause organ damage, coma, and death.
• If your pet is trying to urinate but not producing any urine or only very
little, seek veterinarian or emergency animal hospital attention immediately
to rule out any blockages that might be caused by stones.
• If you think there’s a blockage, don’t encourage your pet to eat or drink.
Maintain body warmth by placing a hot water bottle, or a soda bottle filled
with warm (not hot) water, against (not on top of, or underneath) the body.
It’s also important not to lift your pet around the abdomen. Doing so could
cause discomfort, or possibly rupture the bladder.
VOMITING
Dogs and cats vomit fairly easily, usually because of overeating, dietary
upsets, or over-excitement. If the pet is otherwise normally healthy and the
problem doesn’t recur, there’s no cause for concern. Any pet who eats grass
will probably vomit the grass and stomach contents—this is generally of no
consequence, but it can cause gastrointestinal tract irritation.
Other causes of vomiting include dietary changes, eating certain human
foods, ingesting foreign objects, heatstroke, infections, poisoning, shock, or
organ failure.
Symptoms: If there are multiple episodes of vomiting, if the vomit
contains any blood, or if the pet is depressed or lethargic, see your
veterinarian immediately. Note whether what comes up is undigested food or
is a watery substance. If your pet is continually vomiting up yellowish
mucus, this may be an indication of poor liver function or liver disease.
Treatment: If your pet has more than one isolated bout of vomiting
(and/or diarrhea), but seems alert, active, and unconcerned about the
vomiting, then you may try cautious observation at home.
After the vomiting has ceased for 4 hours, you may give ice chips or
small amounts of water (Pedialyte® is also okay).
If it’s a fairly serious bout of vomiting, you may need to withhold food for
approximately 12 hours, but allow water in small amounts to prevent
dehydration.
If your pet continues to keep water down over the next six (6) hours,
gradually increase the volume of water consumed in one sitting.
If your pet is normally healthy, you can start giving small amounts of bland
foods after the pet has kept water down for 12 hours.
However, for small pets, young or elderly pets, or those with diabetes, you
shouldn’t withhold food (or water) for that long a period of time, or those
pets could become hypoglycemic (suffer from low blood sugar).
If the symptoms of vomiting continue, or worsen, after your pet has eaten
some bland food, you’ll need to contact your veterinarian for advice.
Bland foods to start with include boiled rice, boiled chicken, lean browned
ground turkey, oatmeal, scrambled egg (unless your pet is allergic to eggs),
or prescription diets.
If diarrhea has also been a problem, it’s best to avoid any dairy, including
cottage cheese.
Start with 1-2 tablespoons of bland food every 2 hours. After 6 hours, you
can increase the volume of food and begin to feed less often.
Most of the time, minor GI upsets will heal themselves if the gut is allowed
to rest. If the animal vomits repeatedly, seems cramped or in pain, or is not
interested in food for a day or more, then it’s time to seek veterinarian
attention to rule out any underlying disease, such as diabetes, kidney, or liver
disease.
WOUNDS
Wound care may be needed in the case of deep cuts, lacerations, bites,
burns, or because of other types of trauma. In the care of wounds, the two
most important objectives are to stop the bleeding and to prevent infection.
Muzzling before treating a wound:
Since wounds are painful to an animal, be prepared to restrain or muzzle
even a normally friendly pet before you examine or treat a wound.
Don’t use a muzzle if a dog is having difficulty breathing, is vomiting, is
unconscious, or has small nostrils or a flat face.
Even if a pet is muzzled, be aware that some animals may be agitated
enough to slip right out of a muzzle anyway.
If you don’t have a pet muzzle, you can make one out of a strip of cloth or
gauze. Double the strip for strength and tie a loose loop.
Approach your pet from behind and slip the loop over the nose. Move it
back toward the corners of the mouth.
Wrap the ends under the dog’s mouth, crossing them over, and bringing them
up behind the neck. Tie the ends securely.
The loop should be snug, but it shouldn’t pinch. Be sure the dog is able to
breathe comfortably. If breathing becomes difficult, or the dog begins to
vomit, remove the muzzle right away.
Symptoms: Punctured, torn, or lacerated skin, with or without
bleeding, swelling, or pain.
Veterinary treatment is required if:
• the animal shows signs of shock
• the bleeding is excessive or does not stop in 15-20 minutes (see
BLEEDING in the next chapter)
• the animal appears to be in pain
• the wound requires stitches
• the wound is a deep puncture, especially over the chest or abdomen
• there’s foreign material in the wound
• the wound is a result of being hit by a car, or the result of an attack by a
large animal (there could be internal injuries)
• the wound becomes hot, red, swollen, painful, or starts discharging pus
If in doubt, seek veterinary advice.
Treatment: If you initially need to treat the wound yourself, the
equipment you’ll need is listed in Chapter 28, Emergency Supply
Kits.
All wounds are contaminated with bacteria, and some will be
contaminated with both dirt and bacteria, but proper care and
handling will help prevent some infections.
Before touching any wound, make sure both your hands and your
instruments are clean.
Starting at the edges of a fresh wound, clip the fur or hair back to
enlarge the area.
Cleanse the edges of the wound with a damp gauze or other type of
pad.
Irrigate the wound with clean water, hydrogen peroxide, or contact
lens saline solution, if you have some available. Be careful not to flush
debris from the surrounding skin into the wound area.
Apply antibiotic ointment and bandage as described below to keep the
wound clean. Check with your veterinarian regarding the need for further
antibiotic therapy.
Wounds need to heal from the inside out. If healing takes place too quickly
on the outside, an infection may start on the inside. An older wound that has
a covering of pus or a scab can be cleansed with a 3% hydrogen peroxide
solution, or water and surgical soap. Blot dry. Apply antibiotic ointment and
bandage as described below. Hydrogen peroxide shouldn’t be used on a fresh
wound, except for the initial cleansing, because it may adversely affect
newly healing tissues.
Dressings over infected wounds should be changed frequently to aid the
drainage of pus, and to allow you to apply fresh ointment. Fresh lacerations
over ½ inch long should be sutured as soon as possible to prevent infection,
minimize scarring, and speed healing (preferably within an hour after
injury). If much more time elapses, the wound will become contaminated
and may not be able to be closed.

Bandaging and bandage types

To bandage the foot—

Place several sterile gauze pads (non-stick bandages) over the wound,
and place small cotton separators between the toes. Hold everything in place
with tape or gauze strips looped around the bottom of the foot and back
across the top of the gauze pads, until the foot is snugly, but not tightly,
wrapped. Secure the gauze with tape or with a wide elastic band specifically
designed for pets (often called vet-wrap or flex-wrap). This keeps the
dressing from sliding off, as often happens when only a roll of gauze
bandage is used.
For leg wounds—
Cover the wound with several sterile gauze pads. Hold the gauze pads in
place with a small strip (or strips) of tape. Wrap again with a wide elastic
band of vet-wrap/flex-wrap to keep the bandage from slipping down. Flex
both the knee and the foot several times to be sure the bandage isn’t too
tight, and that there’s good circulation and movement at the joints.
When a dressing is to be left in place for some time, check it every few
hours to be sure the foot isn’t swelling. If there’s any question about
circulation to the foot, or whether or not there’s sensation in the foot, loosen
the dressing.
Many-Tailed Bandage—
This is used to protect the skin of either the neck or the abdomen from
being scratched or bitten, as well as to hold dressings in place on the
underside of the body. Use a rectangular piece of cloth and cut the sides part
way in toward the center on each side, long enough to make strips or tails.
The center section of the material—the part that will be placed over the
underside of the neck or the abdomen—should be wide enough to
completely cover the area that needs protecting. To hold the bandage in
place, tie the tails together by bringing them up over the neck or back. A
many-tailed bandage may also be used to keep puppies from nursing
infected breasts.
Eye Bandage—
Your veterinarian will show you how to use this type of dressing if one is
required. Often, a collar will be used instead to keep paws away from the
affected eye.
Elizabethan Collar—
Named for the high neck ruff popular in the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
it’s a useful device to keep a pet from scratching at the eyes, ears, feet, legs,
abdomen, or other parts of the body. It’s particularly useful after surgery or
when there’s a wound or skin condition that needs protection. You can also
find softer variations of this cone-shaped plastic collar by doing an Internet
search, or by checking pet supply catalogs.
***
For further information about how to prevent gastrointestinal disorders
(potential causes of vomiting and diarrhea) and urinary tract conditions from
becoming potentially serious problems, be sure to see Chapter 7 in Book
Two of the For Pet’s Sake, Do Something! series.
***
In the next chapter we’ll consider first aid procedures to help you cope with
some of the more traumatic emergencies you may encounter.
30: Emergency First Aid Guidelines For More
Traumatic Events
All of the first aid treatments suggested in this chapter are intended to
serve only as suggestions to help you during the first stages of an emergency.
They’re not meant to serve as a substitute for veterinary care.
***
T
he first rule of dealing with an emergency, or any problematic situation,
is to stay as calm as possible and concentrate on what needs to be done. Your
pet may not understand what’s happening, but the calmness of your manner
will be reassuring.
In almost every case, right after an emergency, you’ll also need to have
your pet checked by your veterinarian as soon as possible to assure his or
her health and well-being.
***
ANTIFREEZE TOXICITY
99% of the time, ingesting antifreeze is a death sentence for your pet .
The animal may actually appear a bit “drunken.” The fatal effect of ethylene
glycol occurs a few hours later and is irreversible at that point.
Symptoms: Vomiting, diarrhea, increased thirst, loss of coordination,
depression, kidney failure (even though the pet’s condition may appear to
improve before the onset of kidney failure).
Treatment: If you see an animal walk into, or lick, any antifreeze, rinse
the mouth, feet, and any other points of contact immediately. Induce
vomiting and transport as quickly as possible to your veterinary hospital.
Vomiting can be induced, in this case, by mixing 1 teaspoon of hydrogen
peroxide with 1 teaspoon of milk (if available).
If the animal won’t drink the mixture, then you’ll need to administer the
hydrogen peroxide by itself directly into the pet’s mouth using an
eyedropper or syringe.
If vomiting doesn’t happen within 10 minutes, try repeating the procedure up
to 2 more times.
If you can’t get to the veterinarian immediately after the vomiting has
stopped, or if vomiting cannot be induced using hydrogen peroxide, you’ll
need to give the animal something that competes with the ethylene glycol to
reduce its seriously detrimental effect.
Using the following procedure may help to decrease the amount of poison in
the system that could cause kidney damage. It will also promote increased
urination, which will help to excrete the toxins faster.
• Mix 2 tablespoons of vodka, whiskey, gin, or rum with 2 tablespoons of
half and half cream (or use milk or even water). Administer it with a syringe
or an eyedropper.
• If, after 10 minutes, the animal doesn’t show any signs of intoxication or
depression from the first dose, then administer 1 tablespoon liquor mixed
with 1 tablespoon of cream, milk, or water.
Under any circumstance, an animal who has ingested antifreeze must be
seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.
ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION
(See directions at the end of the CARDIOPULMONARY
RESUSCITATION section below)
ASPHYXIATION
(See the DROWNING AND SUFFOCATION section below.) BLEEDING
- External
Bleeding may be mild or profuse. You may be able to treat and even stop
mild bleeding effectively yourself. But, if bleeding is profuse or prolonged,
you need to do all you can to block the flow immediately, and transport your
pet to your veterinarian or emergency animal hospital right away.
Symptoms: Obvious blood loss, weakness, labored breathing, and pale
gums are the most likely symptoms.
Arterial bleeding (the spurting of bright red blood), or venous bleeding (the
oozing of dark red blood) may both be present.
Blood in the ears may be an indication of a brain injury or skull fracture. If
the animal’s pupils are not equal in size, or the animal is vomiting blood,
these symptoms may also indicate the presence of a brain injury.
Vomiting of blood, or blood coming from the urinary tract or anus, could be
caused by damage to internal organs in either the chest or the abdomen.
Bleeding from the nose or the mouth may be a sign of a lifethreatening lung
injury.
Treatment: Pressure, pressure dressings, and/or tourniquets are used to
control bleeding.
In the case of arterial bleeding, immediately apply pressure over the artery in
the groin or axilla (under the arm) to control the bleeding long enough for
someone to apply a pressure dressing.
If bleeding is caused by any penetrating object, Do not remove that object
yourself. Leaving it in place may prevent hemorrhaging. Use direct pressure
to control the bleeding, then immobilize the object to prevent it from moving
and causing any further injury until the animal can be treated by a
veterinarian.
Don’t try to clean or apply ointment to a serious wound that has finally
stopped bleeding; this will dislodge the clot and profuse bleeding may begin
again.
Don’t pour hydrogen peroxide on a bleeding wound because this may make
the bleeding more difficult to control.
If the animal is going into shock (see Symptoms and Treatment under
SHOCK below), keep him warm by placing a bottle of warm (not hot) water
against the body (not on top of, or underneath it). Also cover with a blanket
or towel. If you have access to a thermometer, you can monitor the pet’s
temperature. If it goes above 103 degrees Fahrenheit, remove the warmth. If
it falls below 100 degrees, use additional warmth.
As soon as severe bleeding is under control, get professional help
immediately.
The Pressure Dressing: Place several pieces of sterile or clean gauze over
the wound and press firmly. Hold them in place and/or bandage snugly. If
gauze isn’t available, use any clean absorbent material such as a washcloth,
towel, or piece of clothing. Sanitary napkins and/or tampons, if available,
work quite well in these circumstances.
If a secure bandage is in place, monitor the pet carefully. If you see swelling
of the limb below the pressure pack, loosen or remove the bandage right
away because swelling is a sign of impaired circulation.
The Tourniquet: A tourniquet is a tight band used to control severe
bleeding when there’s been a serious injury to a leg or a tail. It should only
be used as a last resort to prevent an animal from going into shock when the
bleeding can’t be controlled by using firm, direct pressure. It can be a
lifesaving device, but it must be used properly.
Use something that’s wide enough, such as a cloth, a roll of gauze, a towel, a
piece of clothing, a man’s tie, even a pair of pantyhose, or something similar.
Rubber bands, string, and other thin or narrow items are not recommended
because they can cut into the skin. Items that are too stretchy aren’t useful
either because they won’t maintain enough pressure.
Tie the material you’re using firmly around the leg or the tail that’s bleeding.
A tourniquet should be placed between the wound and the heart, and it
should be closer to the body than it is to the wound. Place it above the knee
joint when the lower part of the leg is injured.
A tourniquet will only be effective if it’s neither too loose nor too tight, but it
has to be tight enough to control the pressure of blood flowing through the
artery.
You can tighten it by hand by inserting something like a stick, a pen, a
pencil, a spoon, etc., in the knot and twisting it around. Be sure you can still
insert a finger between the knot and the skin. If you can’t do this, you’ll need
to loosen the tourniquet just enough until you can.
It’s important to loosen a tourniquet slightly every 15-20 minutes for about
20 seconds to let blood flow back into the limb or tail. Use direct pressure, if
necessary, to control any bleeding during that time.
If a tourniquet isn’t loosened periodically so the blood can flow normally,
there can be serious tissue damage. However, you should leave the
tourniquet in place and take the animal in to receive veterinary care as
quickly as possible.
Although the following procedure should normally only be done by a
trained practitioner, if you see the end of the artery, you might attempt to
pick it up with clean tweezers and tie it off with a piece of cotton thread.
BLEEDING—Internal
Symptoms : Blood accumulating under the skin; blood in the urine,
feces, or vomit; possibly an enlarged abdomen; weakness, pale gums,
labored breathing.
Treatment : Seek veterinary assistance immediately. Keep the animal
warm by placing a bottle of warm water against the body, and cover the dog
with a blanket or towel. The water should be warm, not hot, and the bottle
should not be placed under, or on top of, the body. If you have access to a
thermometer, you can monitor the pet’s temperature. If it goes above 103
degrees Fahrenheit, remove the warmth. If it falls below 100 degrees, add
more warmth.
BLOAT
Bloat is the common term used to describe a stomach that’s distended
with gas. However, if the stomach then twists on itself, this is known as
twisted stomach, gastric volvulus, or gastric tortion. This condition will
cause severe pain and can be life threatening within hours. Larger, deep-
chested dogs are more prone to both of these conditions, so they shouldn’t be
exercised too soon after eating as a precaution.
Symptoms: Belching, gurgling noises in the abdomen, sudden onset of
abdominal pain along with dry retching, unproductive vomiting, extreme
restlessness, the inability to find a comfortable position, whining and crying,
grunting, anxiousness, a distended abdomen (that may also feel hard),
drooling excessively, depression, and labored breathing are among the many
symptoms. As the dog’s pulse becomes weak, and the mucous membranes
pale, the animal can go into SHOCK.
Treatment for Bloat : Use a children’s colic remedy containing
simethicone, or give ¼ of the adult dose of Gas-X®.
Treatment for Twisted Stomach: Take the animal to the veterinary hospital
immediately! (Also see SHOCK below.)
BROKEN BONES, FRACTURES, BACK AND NECK INJURIES
The most important thing you can do in the presence of broken bones,
fractures, and back and neck injuries is to RESTRICT ACTIVITY. You need
to minimize any movement and handling of the animal, and transport
immediately to obtain veterinary care.
Broken bones and fractures can result from events such as traumatic
falls, abuse, being injured while riding unrestrained in a car or in the bed of a
truck, or being hit by a car. Most of the time, these injuries are usually not
life threatening unless they cause serious bleeding, restrict breathing, or are
interfering with a vital organ. A note of caution, though: their presence may
mean there are also other undetectable internal injuries that require
immediate treatment.
Symptoms: These may include one or more of the following: restricted
or painful movement, lameness, refusal to bear weight, holding a leg at an
unusual angle, walking with head down in a hunched position, swollen
limbs, movement in a part of the leg where there shouldn’t be motion,
paralysis, and difficulty breathing (because of rib fractures).
Treatment: Approach the animal from behind to lessen the possibility of
being bitten. Think of yourself as a person who’s calmly and assertively
taking charge. Talk softly and soothingly to the animal while you’re
working.
Muzzle, if necessary, as long as the pet isn’t having any difficulty
breathing, hasn’t been vomiting, isn’t unconscious, and doesn’t have small
nostrils or a flat face. (See directions for using and/or making a muzzle in
the WOUNDS section in Chapter 29.)
Remove the muzzle if, at any time, the animal does have trouble
breathing or begins to vomit.
The specific injuries an animal has sustained will determine which of the
following techniques you’ll need to use.
You can wrap the pet in a towel or a blanket if you need to restrict the pet’s
movement.
If you suspect the animal may be paralyzed, gently pinch each leg and the
tail. If there’s no response, there may be paralysis.
If there’s a back or a neck injury, avoid all unnecessary movement, including
not bending the animal’s back or flexing the neck. Immobilize the animal
from head to foot.
Be sure when you’re moving the animal onto a board that the neck moves as
a unit with the rest of the body. You’ll normally need a second person to help
with this part of the move.
Splint a fractured or broken extremity, exactly as you find it. Doing so may
prevent further injury and reduce pain. Do not try to straighten a broken
extremity, or re-set or manipulate a broken bone or a fracture on your own.
This could cause even more damage.
A splint can be any firm, stiff piece of material that’s long enough to
immobilize the joints above and below the injured area. Tape it securely in
place, but not so tightly as to impair circulation.
When you’re transporting a small animal with a broken extremity, you may
want to simply hold the animal so the injured limb hangs free.
If the ends of bones are protruding, protect them by moistening sterile, or at
least clean, gauze pads and placing them over the exposed ends of the bones.
Ice packs may be applied to reduce pain and inflammation, and they may
also help to control bleeding.
If bleeding or wound care is required, or the animal seems to be in shock,
see the BLEEDING section above, the SHOCK section below, and the two
sections on LACERATIONS and WOUNDS in Chapter 29.
Apply immediate pressure on wounds that are bleeding profusely. Keep open
wounds covered with gauze that’s been secured with tape.
Transporting: Plan the transport process carefully so you can keep any
movement of the animal to a minimum.
Preparation: A kitchen cutting board will work well for small animals, and
an ironing board will work for larger animals, but whatever board you use,
test it first to be sure it will fit through the car door, and that the doors on
both sides of the car will be able to close when the board is inside.
You may need to place a few folded towels on the seat of some cars to make
the area a little more level.
When you’re putting the animal into the car, be sure he’s positioned so his
back is placed against the back part of the seat.
If you don’t have a board that will fit inside the car, carry the animal to the
car on a board, then slide him onto a blanket, towel, or tarp that you’ve
already placed on the seat.
Pack plenty of pillows, cushions, or blankets into the floorwell to minimize
the risk that the pet will slide off the seat and down onto the floor while
you’re driving.
For larger animals, if you don’t have a board, make a hammock with a sheet,
an extra large towel, or a tarp. The animal may undergo more movement this
way during transport, which may cause some problems depending on the
type of injury, but it’s an option to consider if a board isn’t available.
For smaller animals, a strong packing box that opens from the top may work
well, as long as the bottom of the box is secured so that it won’t sag or break
open from the animal’s weight.
Be sure the pet is covered to keep him warm, if necessary, and also be sure
he won’t slide around during transport if he’s not secured to a board. You
can do this by packing extra towels, blankets, or small pillows around the pet
to prevent any unnecessary movement.
Avoid placing the animal inside a crate or a carrier that has only a front
opening so you won’t have to push or pull the pet. A carrier with a
removeable top will work well, however.
If possible, have someone call ahead so the animal hospital will be prepared
for your pet’s arrival.
Using the board: Very carefully, slide the injured animal onto the board
being sure to support the whole body during the move, especially if there’s a
spinal injury. Remember, the neck must move as a unit with the body.
(If your pet doesn’t have a spinal injury and you do have to lift him, put one
arm under the abdomen below the ribs and the other high on the front of his
chest so your arm is under and around the animal’s neck. Bend your knees
and lift with equal pressure on both arms at the same time. As you lift, his
back or side will come to rest against your body, and his neck will be resting
over the crook of your elbow.)
Before securing your pet to a board, if you’re going to be using any kind of
tape, first put a light cloth, a lightweight towel, or even paper towels over
your pet’s body to protect the fur from sticking to the tape.
Secure your pet to the board using sufficient tape, rolled gauze, or strips of
material to wrap around the pet and the board. Whatever you use, it can be
placed around the animal’s head, midsection, and hips, but the legs shouldn’t
be secured unless they’re broken. Masking tape works well for this purpose
because it’s fairly easy to remove.
CARDIOPULMONARY RESUSCITATION (CPR)
CPR is a combination of artificial respiration and chest compressions.
It’s meant to be used only when a pet has stopped breathing and his or her
heart is not beating.
If the animal has serious injuries (even to the back or neck), you’ll still
need to perform CPR in spite of those injuries, although you’ll be doing it
with a little more care.
Breathing and heartbeat must be restored within the first few precious
moments (about 4 minutes) if the pet is going to survive. Once those two
functions have been stabilized, then there’ll be time to tend to any injuries
the animal may have sustained.
Symptoms: Breathing has stopped, or is extremely shallow, and/or there
is no detectable heartbeat.
Causes: The following emergencies may require either Full CPR, or only
the use of Artificial Respiration:
• prolonged seizure
• coma
• head injury
• electric shock
• obstructed airway
• drowning
• sudden death
• shock from problems such as . . .
severe loss of blood
burns
physical injury/trauma
snakebites
poisoning
lack of oxygen
prolonged vomiting with diarrhea
Treatment: Think A-B-C—Airway, Breathing, Circulation.
• The first priority is to establish an unobstructed airway by removing
anything in the mouth that shouldn’t be there, and then tilting the chin
upward to keep the windpipe straight.
• The second is to breathe air into the lungs to get fresh oxygen into the
blood supply.
• The third, if necessary, is to do chest compressions to circulate the
oxygenized blood supply throughout the body.
Cautions:
• If the pet is already breathing, Do not administer any breaths or any chest
compressions.
• If there’s even the faintest heartbeat, don’t do any chest compressions, even
if you do have to breathe for the pet.

Performing full CPR

About the directions:

The Step-by-Step directions further below describe how to perform Full
One-Person and Two-Person CPR if an animal is not breathing and the heart
is not beating.
The directions for performing only Artificial Respiration, when an
animal is not breathing but does still have a heartbeat, can be found after the
Stepby-Step directions at the end of this section.
To be prepared in case of an emergency, practice using these directions
for your pet, from memory, in a “pretend” manner, until you know exactly
what to do. But, never actually do any chest compressions on any healthy pet
during practice sessions. (Doing so could actually cause a normally beating
heart to malfunction.) Also, never give any breaths to to any animal who is
already breathing normally.
If you train yourself to periodically review both the General and Step-
byStep directions below, at least mentally, and over and over again as a drill,
it will enable you to respond with confidence at a moment’s notice.
Please Note: Each of the following sections represents one method of
performing effective CPR, and/or performing only Artificial Respiration.
Some professionals may recommend different breathing and/or compression
rates.
General Directions: Checking level of consciousness, giving initial breaths,
and finding a pulse
If you ever have to administer CPR, you’ll need to follow the Step-
byStep directions further below, but you must first understand the techniques
described in the following General Directions. They’ll provide you with
detailed information you need to study and practice, ahead of time, in order
to move smoothly through the Step-by-Step directions in an emergency.
• To check an animal’s level of consciousness: Brush your fingers
gently over the eyebrow fur. The eyelid should twitch a little bit if the animal
is not deeply unconscious.
• To clear out any foreign objects or fluids from the mouth: See the
CHOKING section below for detailed instructions.
• To check for breathing:
Make this assessment as quickly as you can. You’ll also need to check
for a heartbeat right afterward, and time is of the essence in this type of an
emergency.
Watch the chest and/or the abdomen rise and fall. A normal breathing rate
for a dog, at rest, will be in the range of approximately 10-30 breaths per
minute. For a cat, it will be approximately 20-30 breaths per minute. You
can count the breaths for 15 seconds and multiply by 4 to get the rate per
minute.
An animal who’s reacting to pain, heart or respiratory distress, any trauma,
heatstroke, or excitement will have a higher respiratory rate than an animal
who is at rest, so you need to take into account not only the breathing rate,
but also what else is happening to the animal, in order to know what’s
“normal” under those circumstances.
• To give breathing assistance:
Be sure to keep the inner part of the neck (the windpipe) straight, so the
airway remains fully open. Do this by tipping the chin upward (but not too
far upward for an animal with back or neck injuries).
When you’re breathing for an animal, you should be able to see the chest
expand as you give a breath and the chest should fall between breaths if
you’re effectively getting air into, and out of, the lungs. (Remember: don’t
practice giving breaths to any animal who is breathing normally.) Don’t be
too forceful with small animals when it comes to breathing, and don’t over-
do forcing air into the lungs, even on a larger animal.
• To check for a heartbeat (to determine whether or not chest
compressions are also needed):
The best way to check the heart rate, and the strength of the heartbeat, is to
feel the pulsing sensation in the femoral artery. This artery is located in the
groin area in what’s known as the inguinal (groin) crease.
If your fingers are in the right place, and you’re applying the correct amount
of finger pressure, this pulse can easily be felt when an animal is lying on
one side or the other. Use either the left or the right side. If the animal has an
injury, use the uninjured side.
Feel the place where the uppermost part of the leg (the thigh) begins. It
curves inward near the groin area. Deeply grasp the uppermost part of the
thigh with four fingers.
Your fingers should be in the inguinal crease, but they’ll also be pressing
back in against the lower, innermost part of the thigh—the part that’s closest
to the crease. Carefully, move your fingers upward, downward, or sideways
in this area until you detect a pulsing sensation. You’ll need to press firmly
enough with your fingers so you can feel the ropey or cord-like structure of
the artery as you’re pressing it against the bone of the thigh. If you move
your fingers from side-to-side, you may even be able to feel the artery
slightly “rolling” underneath them. Use only your fingers, if possible,
although you may use your thumb on the underside of the thigh for balance.
Just be aware that any pulsing you feel in your thumb will be from your own
heartbeat, not that of the animal. If you don’t feel a pulse right away, move
your fingers around the area again, but press even more firmly this time.
If you’re still having difficulty finding the pulse with the animal lying on his
side, try rolling him onto his back, but take only a few seconds more to try to
detect a pulse. If you can feel even a faint pulse, chest compressions should
not be started.
If an animal’s pulse is very weak, it may be very difficult for an untrained
person to find the correct location. If you can’t find a pulse relatively
quickly, and you’re sure the animal is in full cardiac arrest, then don’t waste
further time. Proceed to doing both breathing and chest compressions.
In two-person CPR on a human, the person doing the breathing is also the
one who checks for a pulse on the carotid artery of the neck because he or
she is in the best position to do so. In animal CPR, since the second person
—the one who’ll be doing chest compressions, if they’re needed—is
physically closer to the femoral artery, it may make more sense for the
second person to check for the pulse on an animal.
Practice finding a pulse on your pet so you’ll know exactly what it feels like
under normal conditions.
Count the beats for 15 seconds, then multiply by four to get the rate per
minute.
get the rate per minute.
120; medium size dogs—70-110; large size dogs—60-90; cats—150-200.
Larger, and very physically fit dogs, will have slower rates, while smaller
dogs will have faster rates. The rate for a puppy or a kitten may be in the
range of approximately 120-200 beats per minute.
Step-by-Step Directions: One-Person CPR If you’re alone, the animal is not
breathing, and you’re sure the heart is not beating:
• The animal should be lying on its right side so its left side is up.
• Remove any foreign objects from the mouth.
• Clear out any mucus, phlegm, or vomit.
• Straighten out the tongue if it’s doubled back.
• Initially, give 5 breaths to get oxygen into the blood quickly. Extend the
head and neck so there’s a straight airway. (If there’s a neck or back injury,
don’t over-extend the neck.) Close the pet’s mouth by cupping your hands
tightly around the muzzle to prevent air from escaping. Breathe into the
nostrils.
For small animals, breathe into both the nose and the mouth.
Use only enough force to make the chest expand.
• Check for a heartbeat.
• Give 2 more good breaths.
• Do 15 chest compressions at the rate of about one compression per
second.
Where to compress:
Count the ribs down from the neck.
Locate the area between the 4th and 7th ribs.
This is the area on which you’ll place your hands to do compressions.
Hand technique for medium to large size animals:
Place the flat part of one hand on top of the flat part of the other hand for
leverage.
Link the fingers of the top hand so they keep the fingers of the lower hand
pulled back and pointed upward. Place the heel of the lower hand on the area
of the chest to be compressed.
Keep your fingers up off the chest wall.
Keep your elbows straight at all times while you’re doing compressions.
Push from your shoulders.
Finger technique for smaller animals:
Use four fingers of only one hand.
For very small animals use only one or two fingers. How deep to compress:
Compressions should be approximately: less than ½ inch for a very small
animal, ½ inch for a small animal, 1 inch for a medium size animal, and up
to 2 inches for a larger animal. Compressions should only massage the heart,
not be pushing it around inside the chest.
• Check for the return of breathing and a heartbeat every two minutes. Try
not to pause for more than 30 seconds during this time, and pause only if
absolutely necessary.
• Continue repeating this cycle of 2 breaths and 15 compressions, as well as
checking for the return of breathing and a heartbeat every two minutes, for
up to 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, however, it’s not likely an animal will
begin breathing normally on his or her own again.
• To give the pet additional support, if someone else is nearby, he or she can
administer 4 drops of Bach Flower Rescue® Remedy, by mouth, every 5
minutes for up to 4 doses.
Step-by-Step Directions: Two-Person CPR If there are two of you, the
animal is not breathing, and you’re sure the heart is not beating:
• The animal should be lying on its right side so its left side is up.
The person doing the breathing should:
• Remove any foreign objects from the mouth.
• Clear out any mucus, phlegm, or vomit.
• Straighten out the tongue if it’s doubled back.
• Initially, give 5 breaths to get oxygen into the blood quickly.
Extend the head and neck so there’s a straight airway. (If there’s a neck
or back injury, don’t over-extend the neck). Close the pet’s mouth by
cupping the hands tightly around the muzzle to prevent air from escaping.
Breathe into the nostrils.
For small animals, breathe into both the nose and the mouth.
Use only enough force to make the chest expand.
 The second person
• Checks for a heartbeat.
The person doing the breathing
• Gives 1 more good breath.
The second person
• Immediately administers 5 compressions.
Compressions and breaths
There should be only the hint of a pause between the fifth and first
compressions of each cycle so the first person can administer a full breath.
You don’t want a compression to force the air right back out even as it’s
going in, but you do want to keep the rhythm of the compressions as steady
as possible.
Where to compress:
Count the ribs down from the neck.
Locate the area between the 4th and 7th ribs.
This is the area on which you’ll place your hands to do compressions.
Hand technique for medium to large size animals:
Place the flat part of one hand on top of the flat part of the other hand for
leverage.
Link the fingers of the top hand so they keep the fingers of the lower hand
pulled back and pointed upward. Place the heel of the lower hand on the area
of the chest to be compressed.
Keep your fingers up off the chest wall.
Keep your elbows straight at all times while you’re doing compressions.
Push from your shoulders.
Finger technique for smaller animals:
Use four fingers of only one hand.
For very small animals use only one or two fingers.
How deep to compress:
Compressions should be approximately: less than ½ inch for a very small
animal, ½ inch for a small animal, 1 inch for a medium size animal, and up
to 2 inches for a larger animal. Compressions should only massage the heart,
not be pushing it around inside the chest.
• Check for the return of breathing and a heartbeat every two minutes.
Try not to pause for more than 30 seconds during this time, and pause only if
absolutely necessary.
• Continue repeating this cycle of 1 breath and 5 chest compressions, as
well as checking for the return of breathing and a heartbeat every two
minutes, without interruption, for up to 20 minutes. After 20 minutes,
however, it’s not likely an animal will begin breathing normally on its own
again.
• To give the pet additional support, if someone else is nearby, he or she can
administer 4 drops of Bach Flower Rescue® Remedy, by mouth, every 5
minutes for up to 4 doses.

Performing artificial respiration only

In certain circumstances, when an animal has stopped breathing but its

heart is still beating, artificial respiration (breathing) may be all that’s
needed. It should only be combined with heart compressions if no heartbeat
can be heard or felt.
You may be able to restore breathing by simply pressing on the chest
repeatedly, though not too rapidly, to stimulate respirations. Pressing on the
chest pushes air out and allows the elastic recoil of the chest to draw air back
in. (Note: This technique is definitely different from the faster technique
that’s used to assist a heart that’s stopped beating.)
If this procedure isn’t working then try:
Rescue breathing (mouth-to-nose forced respiration, without any chest
compressions):
• Place the animal on its side
• Remove any foreign objects from inside the mouth
• Clear out any mucus, phlegm, or vomit
• Straighten out the tongue if it’s doubled back
• Extend the head and neck by tilting the chin upward so there’s a straight
airway (If there’s a neck or back injury, don’t over-extend the neck.)
• Close the animal’s mouth
• Cup your hands tightly around the muzzle to prevent air from escaping
• Breathe air into the nostrils with just enough force to make the chest
expand
• For small animals, breathe into both the nose and the mouth
• Administer breaths at the rate of 12 breaths per minute, or one breath
every 5 seconds.
• Breathe into the animal for approximately 3 seconds (depending on the size
of the pet) in order to fill the lungs with air; then pause for about 2 seconds
to let the air be exhaled.
Don’t be too forceful with small animals, however, and don’t over-do
forcing air into the lungs, even on a larger animal.
Be sure to keep the inner part of the neck straight, not flexed, so the airway
remains fully open.
You should be able to see the chest expand as you give a breath, and the
chest should fall between breaths if you’re effectively getting air into, and
out of, the lungs.
• To give the pet additional support, if someone else is nearby, he or she
can administer 4 drops of Bach Flower Rescue® Remedy, by mouth, every 5
minutes for up to 4 doses.
CHOKING
Just having an object stuck in the mouth is not necessarily going to cause
an animal to stop breathing. Sometimes a “choking” sound can actually be a
normal or vigorous “clearing of the throat” to remove mucus or phlegm, or
to try to remove an object, such as a bone that’s gotten stuck around the
teeth, the jaw, or the roof of the mouth.
If an object is lodged in the mouth, but the airway is not blocked, and the
animal is still breathing, it’s always best to let a professional remove the
object, although in some cases, you may be able to do so yourself, but with
appropriate caution.
However, if a piece of food, rawhide bone, or any other object, has
become lodged in the back of the throat so that it’s blocking the airway and
the animal can’t breathe, this constitutes an emergency that requires
immediate action. Constricting neck injuries from ropes and collars also
constitute an emergency.
Symptoms: In true choking, the animal will at first be in obvious
distress, salivate, paw at the mouth, gag, and have difficulty breathing. At a
certain point, when he or she isn’t getting enough air, the animal will begin
to lose consciousness.
Treatment for a constricting neck injury : Remove the rope or collar
and administer artificial respiration (see the last set of directions in the CPR
section just above). Transport to the vet as soon as possible.
Treatment for a non-constricting neck injury : Check carefully to see
if there is a foreign object in the animal’s mouth or throat that’s causing the
choking reflex.
 If the animal is still able to breathe , but a foreign object is lodged in the
mouth, go straight to your veterinarian or emergency animal hospital and let
a professional remove it.
If the animal isn’t breathing because the object is blocking the airway,
you’ll need to take immediate action to try to remove it yourself. Neither
artificial breathing nor chest compressions will be effective until after the
object has been removed, so get it out first.
Detecting and removing a foreign object:
You’ll have to open your pet’s mouth to inspect the back of the throat.
Because of the potential of being bitten when you do this, you’ll need to be
very cautious.
You may need to use a small roll of first aid tape, or something similar to
prop the animal’s mouth open. This can act as a wedge to protect your hands
and fingers, lest your pet clamp down on them with his or her teeth.
(Whatever you use, it shouldn’t be so hard that a pet would break a tooth
when biting down on it.)
If you do see something, there are several possible actions you can take:
1. Small animals can be held so their heads are pointing down. If your
animal is large, lift the rear legs so his or her head will be tilted down.
Sometimes this change of position is enough to help dislodge whatever is
stuck in the throat.
2. If it doesn’t, with your pet still in the head down position, administer a
sharp hit between the shoulder blades using the palm of your hand.
3. If neither of these actions help, you’ll need to force air from the lungs to
try to expel the object. This procedure is similar to the Heimlich maneuver
for humans. Position yourself behind your dog and put your arms around his
or her body as if you’re about to give a bear hug. Depending on the size of
the animal, place your fist (for large animals) or your fingers (for smaller
animals) just below the ribs. Give 3-5 quick pushes, inward and upward, to
compress the abdomen and cause the lungs to expel air. If you don’t actually
see the object fly out, check inside the mouth again. If the object is still
there, repeat the abdominal thrusts.
4. If these methods haven’t expelled the object and you do have to reach
inside the animal’s mouth with your fingers, don’t reach directly in for it, or
you may push it further back. Instead, as you’re looking inside the mouth,
sweep your finger around from the side to see if you can dislodge the object
or grasp it without pushing it any deeper. Avoid doing any “blind” sweeps;
watch what you’re doing.
Be very careful not to mistake the normal small bones that support the base
of the tongue as being a foreign object, and do not pull on them. The rule of
thumb is: don’t try to remove any object unless you can see it and identify it.
Once the object has been removed, you may need to give artificial
respiration to restore breathing, and you may have to do chest compressions
if the heart has stopped beating. Don’t do CPR, however, if either breathing
and/or heartbeat resume normally.
Quick action on your part may save your pet’s life, but your pet should be
seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible after a choking event. A
professional should evaluate the pet’s overall condition, and also check for
any lacerations in the mouth or throat.
DROWNING AND SUFFOCATION
(Also see HEATSTROKE below.)
Drowning and suffocation, or smothering, are two primary causes of
asphyxiation. They both prevent oxygen from getting into the lungs and
bloodstream, usually leading to unconsciousness or even death. Other causes
of asphyxiation include: heatstroke, carbon monoxide poisoning, foreign
bodies in the airway, injuries to the chest that interfere with breathing, and
inhalation of toxic fumes (smoke, gasoline, propane, refrigerants, or
solvents).
Symptoms: If it’s not a case of drowning, symptoms may include
straining to breathe, gasping for breath (often with the head extended),
extreme anxiety, and weakness progressing to the loss of consciousness.
In any case, dilated pupils and/or blue tongue and mucous membranes
are signs of insufficient oxygen in the blood. Carbon monoxide poisoning is
an exception to the blue color—it turns membranes bright red.
Treatment: In case of drowning, if respirations are shallow or absent,
turn the animal upside down, suspended by the legs and/or the lower body,
and let the water run out of the lungs and the windpipe first. (Some
professionals recommend doing this; others don’t because it’s no longer
considered to be necessary in a human drowning situation, and it takes extra
time.)
Next, position the animal on his or her side, on a slant, with the head
lower than the chest (place something under the rear part of the body to
achieve a slant).
 Immediately begin doing mouth-to-nose rescue breathing. If the animal’s
heart stops beating, perform Full CPR. (See Artificial Respiration and/or
Full CPR instructions in the CPR section above.)
Once the immediate crisis is over, veterinary aid should be sought.
Pneumonia from water inhalation and allergic reactions to chlorine are
frequent complications.
If it’s not a case of drowning and the animal is still breathing on his or
her own, provide an environment with lots of fresh air to breathe— better
yet, give pure oxygen if available. Transport to the veterinarian as soon as
possible.
If it’s not a case of drowning and the animal has stopped breathing,
administer artificial respiration. If the animal’s heart also stops beating,
administer full CPR, then transport to the veterinary clinic. (See directions
for administering both Artificial Respiration and/or Full CPR in the CPR
section above.)
If respirations are extremely shallow or absent for any other reason,
immediately begin mouth-to-nose rescue breathing (see CPR instructions
above), and seek veterinary care as quickly as possible.
HEATSTROKE
In moderate to hot weather, an animal may suffer heatstroke if he or she
is left in an unventilated car, or one that’s only slightly ventilated, even for a
short period of time. Animals who don’t have access to shade, or who are
fairly active in direct sun on a hot day, may also suffer heatstroke.
Symptoms: Heavy panting or hyperventilation; increased salivation
(early stages), then dry gums; weakness, confusion, or inattention; vomiting
or diarrhea, sometimes with blood; pale or gray gums; shallow breathing or
absence of the effort to breathe; seizures, or coma; rectal temperature above
104° Fahrenheit (if you have a thermometer available to take a temperature).
Treatment: Put the animal in the shade and clear any froth from the
mouth. If the body temperature doesn’t seem to be too hot yet, cooling may
take place naturally, or it can be accomplished just by placing a towel soaked
in cool water on the animal’s body.
If the body temperature is extremely hot, immerse the body in cool
water. Gradually, make the water even colder by adding ice.
If there’s nothing to immerse the animal in, soak a blanket, towel, or other
piece of material in cold water and lay it on top of the animal. Then
gradually add ice on top of the wet material.
Ice, wrapped in a cloth, can be placed, with caution, under the armpits, head,
neck, and groin area, though not for too long at a time.
You need to act quickly to bring the animal’s temperature back down, yet it
has to be done somewhat gradually. You don’t have to wait for the body
temperature to fully return to normal, however, before removing any ice or
cold coverings.
If you have access to a thermometer to monitor the animal’s temperature,
remove the ice or cold coverings when the temperature is back down to
around 104 degrees because the body should then continue cooling itself
down naturally. Remember, the normal body temperature for a dog or a cat
ranges between 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit (38.1°C) and 102.5 degrees
Fahrenheit (39.2°C).
When the animal is somewhat cooler and breathing normally, transport him
or her to a veterinary hospital where treatment may involve more cold water,
stimulant drugs, or cortisone.
If the pet seems chilled or the body temperature suddenly drops during
transport, remove the ice packs and wrap a blanket around the animal for
warmth.
A few doses of Bach Flower Rescue® Remedy, given before transport, or on
the way to the veterinary or emergency clinic, will also aid in the pet’s
recovery.
HIT BY A CAR
(See the sections on BLEEDING; BROKEN BONES, FRACTURES,
BACK AND NECK INJURIES; CPR; and SHOCK in this chapter, and the
two sections on LACERATIONS and WOUND CARE in Chapter 29.)
POISONING
There are many different types of poisons; each can affect your pet
differently.
Antidotes may be available for some substances, but only if treatment is
begun early enough. Some antidotes may not be available in all areas, and
they may be very costly.
Do not make the pet vomit if you know the item ingested is an acid, alkali,
or petroleum product, or if you don’t know what kind of poison the pet has
consumed. Bringing certain poisonous substances back up through vomiting
can damage a pet’s esophagus. Consult a poison control center or
veterinarian immediately.
The number for the national Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) is
1-888-426-4435. You’ll need to have your credit card handy for payment,
just as you would for a veterinarian or an emergency animal hospital visit.
Symptoms: If you suspect poisoning from ingested products or
plants, look for these symptoms: abdominal pain, continuous
vomiting, convulsions, diarrhea, pale gums or tongue, swollen tongue,
refusal of food.
In some cases, there won’t be any apparent symptoms right away. In
fact, some may not show up for weeks, months, or even years. If you believe
your pet may possibly have ingested something
poisonous, contact your veterinarian or poison control center immediately,
and then observe the pet carefully for several days. Your veterinarian can tell
you what symptoms may develop later on. Causes: The following products
and substances are only a few of the many that can be toxic to animals:
• Antifreeze (see the Antifreeze Toxicity section above)
• Flea pesticides containing permethrin (if ingested)
• Rodent control chemicals for rats, mice, slugs, snails, ants, etc.
• Bleach, disinfectants, and household cleaners
• Snail and slug bait containing metaldehyde
• Lead-based products or paint scrapings
• Certain plants—both indoor and outdoor
Treatment:
• Remain calm and gather information as quickly as possible including:
the name of the food, product, chemical, or plant that was ingested
the amount of time since your pet ingested it
the quantity that was ingested
• Call your veterinarian or poison control hotline to see if treatment is
necessary. They’ll want to know:
your pet’s breed, age, sex, and weight
abnormal signs the pet is exhibiting
the type and quantity of poison ingested
how long since your pet ingested it
if more than one pet is affected when there are multiple pets in the household
• Do not induce vomiting until after you’ve consulted a professional
(except in the case of Antifreeze—see the Antifreeze Toxicity section at the
beginning of this chapter). Once you know it’s ok to induce vomiting, use
the exact amount of the recommended emetic medicine.
• Transport—If this occurs during the day, take your pet to the veterinary
hospital immediately; if it’s after hours, take him to the night emergency
veterinary hospital.
• If you suspect your pet may have ingested a particular product, plant,
food, or chemical—bring the wrapper, container, or a sample of the
poisonous item with you. Letting your veterinarian know the cause, or even
your suspicions about the cause, may reduce the need for extensive
diagnostic tests, which means that specific treatment can then be started
sooner.
• Reducing absorption—If the exposure is external, bathe (but don’t soak)
the animal in lukewarm, running water using mild dishwashing soap. Dry
thoroughly. If the exposure is internal, and you know the substance ingested
is not caustic or petroleum based, inducing vomiting will help reduce
absorption. Do not try to induce vomiting, however, when a pet has ingested
caustic or petroleum-based substances, or if an animal is unconscious, is not
alert, or is already vomiting.
• Delaying absorption—Administering USP grade activated charcoal
(available in health food stores and important to have on hand) can help
delay absorption of a poisonous substance because it binds the toxin so that
it can then pass through the intestinal tract instead of being readily absorbed
into the pet’s system. Activated charcoal, itself, is neither digested nor
absorbed and is considered safe to use. The generally recommended dose is
1-3 grams per 1 kilogram of body weight. (A kilogram = 2.2 pounds, so use
1-3 grams for each 2.2 pounds a pet weighs.)
• Veterinary intervention through the use of IV’s, certain medications, or
enemas can also help speed up the elimination of poisons from the system.
(See Chapter 32, Poison-Proofing Your Home and Garden for lists of
poisonous substances and plants, as well as information about how to
prevent many poisoning incidents.)
SEIZURES
Seizures are very troubling to witness, but you can help your pet go
through them safely. They’re thought to be caused by abnormal electrical
activity in the brain. It’s as if there’s a temporary electrical storm going on in
the brain that disrupts normal bodily functions.
Symptoms: Any of the following: confusion prior to the onset of an
episode, pacing, thrashing, salivation, loss of bowel or bladder control. An
animal may also show a lack of awareness of its surroundings or be
unresponsive.
 Seizures can range from the almost unobservable to the convulsive, and
they’re usually associated with an altered state of consciousness (mild to
severe), or with involuntary motor activity of the body.
During a seizure, a pet may:
• stand and stare into space for longer than normal, then move right on
about its normal business
• experience minor trembling occasionally, but be perfectly normal the rest
of the time
• stagger around as if drunk, or collapse
• experience a full blown convulsive seizure involving its whole body
Once a seizure is over, an animal may be confused, uncoordinated, and
possibly be blind for a few minutes or even a few hours. Most of the time, a
pet will recover gradually on his or her own. On occasion, though, it may be
necessary to administer CPR to a pet who has experienced a seizure.
However, never start CPR if the animal is breathing or if there’s even the
hint of a very faint heartbeat. Treatment:
• There’s no intervention you can use to stop a seizure, so the best thing you
can do is to provide a quiet environment. Keep fearful or screaming children
and loud music or other sounds away from the animal.
• Continually speak softly to the animal for reassurance.
• Stay with your pet to be sure he remains safe throughout the entire episode.
Keep him away from stairways, dangerous objects (sharp table corners), or
anything he could fall from (decks, balconies, etc.). Using a blanket for
padding and protection usually isn’t required unless the animal is very
actively pacing or thrashing about.
• Keep your hands and fingers out of your pet’s mouth. Swallowing the
tongue is not often an issue with an animal in the midst of a seizure, so don’t
think you must “pull the tongue out” to prevent swallowing.
• Train yourself to time the seizure and make note of its severity.
• If the seizure lasts for more than 3 minutes, or there are clusters of 5 or
more, your pet may require medication right away. Any dog or cat who
experiences a seizure should be examined by a veterinarian, and the
appropriate laboratory tests should also be done. It may be necessary to
consult with a neurological veterinarian to determine if the cause of the
seizure is inherited epilepsy, acquired epilepsy, or active seizure disease.
Active seizure disease is a condition that requires the greatest effort to
diagnose and treat since the active cause must be found and eliminated in
order to control the abnormal brain activity.
SHOCK
Shock is a depressed state of many vital bodily functions resulting from a
lack of effective circulation. It often accompanies severe injury, some
diseases, and extreme fright. Some of the causes of shock are: severe loss of
blood, burns, physical injury, trauma, snakebites, poisoning, lack of oxygen,
or prolonged vomiting with diarrhea. Shock is a life threatening condition,
but it’s reversible if treated in time.
Symptoms: Depending on the severity of the condition, any or all of the
following symptoms may be present:
• Pale color of the gums and the insides of the eyelids
• Dry lips and gums
• Dehydration
• Excessive drooling in some poison cases
• Cool extremities
• Hyperventilation
• Confusion
• Dazed appearance
• Restlessness
• Anxiousness
• Depression
• Disorientation
• General weakness
• Weak femoral pulse
• Rapid heart rate of 150 to 200 beats per minute
• Rapid breathing—generally over 25 breaths per minute Treatment:
• Center yourself, stay calm, and evaluate the symptoms.
• If the pet is dazed, restless, or anxious, but is breathing and has a
heartbeat, transport to the veterinarian or animal emergency hospital right
away.
• If breathing has stopped, or is only intermittent, loosen the collar.
Check inside the mouth to be sure the airway is clear and that the inner part
of the neck is straight. Give rescue breaths at the rate of 1 breath every 5
seconds. (See Artificial Respiration in the CPR section above.)
• If there’s no heartbeat, it will be necessary to proceed with CPR (as
described in that section above).
• To control bleeding, apply pressure at the site of any bleeding with a
bandage, towel, or other absorbent material (See BLEEDING, above).
• Shock can be aggravating, so calm your pet by speaking soothingly.
As soon as breathing is stabilized, get your pet to a veterinarian. Keep
each of the following points in mind before and during transport.
• Allow your animal to assume the most comfortable position; it’s
probably the one with the least pain, and the one in which he or she can
breathe most easily.
• Poor circulation means there’s a lack of circulating blood to keep the body
warm, so place warm (not hot) water bottles against the body, and/or cover
your pet lightly with a blanket or coat, but don’t wrap it tightly. Don’t place
the warm water bottle on, or under, your pet; just let it rest against the body.
• When possible, splint or otherwise support broken bones before moving
the animal.
• Transport large dogs on a flat surface (even an ironing board will work), or
in a hammock-type stretcher made of blankets or towels. (See additional
information about Transporting in the section above under BROKEN
BONES, FRACTURES, BACK AND NECK INJURIES.)
• Carry small dogs with injured parts of the body protected. A kitchen
cutting board can be useful for transport for this size pet.
• Muzzle only when absolutely necessary, but not if the animal is vomiting,
unconscious, having difficulty breathing, or has small nostrils or a flat face.
SNAKEBITES
There are four (4) varieties of poisonous snakes in the United States:
rattlesnakes, copperheads, coral snakes, and cottonmouth moccasins.
Poisonous snakes leave only two (2) puncture wounds, or fang marks, in the
skin.
If there are no fang marks, there’s less cause for concern. That’s because
the majority of snakes are nonpoisonous, and instead of fangs, they have
many teeth. The bites of nonpoisonous snakes will look like teeth marks in
the shape of a “U” or a horseshoe.
You’ll also find other identifying differences between poisonous and
nonpoisonous snakes: The eyes of nonpoisonous snakes are round with a
round pupil, while poisonous snakes have elliptical eyes with elliptical
pupils, as well as pits below their eyes.
Symptoms: These will depend on the species of the snake, location of
the bite, and the amount of toxin absorbed into the system.
In the area of the bite there may be swelling, redness, bleeding, and
excruciating pain from a poisonous snakebite. The animal may be very
restless, panting, salivating, and thirsty. There may also be diarrhea, lethargy,
weakness, paralysis, seizures, shock, or collapse, and in severe cases, death.
Treatment: If possible, identify the type of snake so you’ll be able to
describe it to a veterinarian.
Check the bite for two (2) fang marks, or for teeth marks in a horseshoe-
shape, or a “U” shaped pattern. If it appears your animal has been bitten by a
poisonous snake (you see two fang marks), seek immediate veterinary care.
If you, or someone with you, can kill the snake, you can then bring it with
you to the veterinary hospital for exact identification. Doing this could
enable a veterinarian to select the correct anti-venin right away (if one is
available) and begin effective treatment much more quickly.
While transporting, keep the pet as still as possible, and immobilize the part
of the animal that’s been bitten, keeping it below the level of the heart.
Apply a flat tourniquet above the bite to impede the spread of venom. It
should not be as tight as an arterial tourniquet (see BLEEDING above), but
it should be tight enough to keep venous (blue) blood from returning to the
heart.
Wrapping ice in a cloth and applying it to the puncture wound will help slow
the spread of the venom. Rotate the use of the ice for 10 minutes on, then 5
minutes off.
Otherwise, keep the pet warm. If necessary, use warm water bottles placed
against (not under or on top of) the body, and/or use a covering.
When you arrive at the veterinary clinic, carry the animal inside, especially
if the bite is from a poisonous snake. Don’t let him walk.
Nonpoisonous bites may be washed with soap and water, followed by the
application of an antibiotic ointment, but they, too, should be evaluated by a
veterinarian for possible bacterial infections.
If your pet has been bitten by a poisonous snake and you’re too far away
from a veterinarian or a veterinary emergency hospital, but you do have a
First Aid Kit available, you may be able to perform the following procedure.
You should consult your veterinarian by phone first, if at all possible, to
obtain approval for doing so.
Restrain the animal and apply a tourniquet.
• Using a knife or razor blade, make parallel cuts one-quarter inch deep
through the fang marks. On the leg, make the cuts up and down. Blood
should ooze from the wound. If not, loosen the tourniquet until bleeding
does occur.
• Apply mouth suction unless you have a cut or an open sore in, or near, your
mouth. Spit out the blood. If any poison is swallowed, the stomach acids will
inactivate it. Continue for up to 30 minutes.
• Loosen the tourniquet for 30 seconds every half hour.
• Keep the animal quiet; excitement, exercise, and struggling can increase
the rate of absorption of toxins. When initial emergency treatment has been
completed, transport your pet to the veterinarian, carrying him inside instead
of letting him walk.
• Some specific anti-venins are available through veterinarians.
• Antibiotics and dressings are indicated if the snakebite becomes infected.
***
In the next two chapters, we’ll look at lists of foods pets should avoid, and
how to poison-proof your home and garden.
31: Foods All Pets Should Avoid

A
lthough it seems that some pets are able to eat almost anything without any
unpleasant consequences, there are still some basic food guidelines it’s wise
to follow for all pets.

Foods to avoid—general guidelines

The following foods should not be fed to pets, either because they’re not
healthy for them, or because they may not be compatible with a pet’s
digestive system:
• No bacon, bacon grease, or other leftover fats (as much as your pet may
like them!)
• No ham or other pork products (ham is too salty)
• No spicy foods (chili, pepperoni, hot peppers, or other highly seasoned
foods)
• No fried foods, sauces, or very salty foods
• No onions, onion salt, or onion powder
• No grapes and raisins
• No cookies, cakes, ice cream, candy, or other sweets
• No sugarless candies or gum containing Xylitol
• No chocolate (chocolate in most forms can be toxic, and even deadly)
• No cheeses (cheese is too fattening to be used for regular feeding, although
it can be used as a very effective training treat in limited quantities)
As a general rule, never give cat food to dogs, and never give dog food to
cats.
Cat food is too high in protein and fat for dogs, and dog food doesn’t have
the right balance of nutrients for cats. Long-term feeding of dog food to cats
may cause malnutrition.
For cats, canned tuna intended for human consumption is not recommended
on a regular basis (more than once a week) for several reasons.
The mercury content of human canned tuna is often higher than it is in the
tuna used in cat food.
Canned tuna for people doesn’t provide the necessary balance of nutrients
for cats, so prolonged feeding could result in malnutrition, unless it’s
supplemented with vitamin E, taurine, and veggies. The amino acid, taurine,
is essential for heart muscle function and vision in cats. The oil in regular
canned tuna, used over a long period of time, can deplete vitamin E, possibly
resulting in inflammation of fatty tissue (steatitis). If you’re using human
canned tuna as a treat, use only the kind packed in water.

Specific foods and other items that should be avoided or used

only with caution for dogs and cats

It is not wise to assume that human foods are also good for pets. The
following list provides additional information about many of those foods and
why they should be avoided altogether, or at least used with caution.
Alcoholic Beverages —may cause coma and death from intoxication.
Avocado—the leaves and bark of the avocado tree, as well as the seeds and
skin of the fruit, are toxic to pets and can affect the heart. The fruit itself,
however, has nutritional benefits.
Baby Food—may contain onion powder, which can be toxic for dogs and
cats. Baby food is also not nutritionally balanced for dogs or cats for long
term feeding, but using certain baby foods can be a godsend when you need
to feed a pureed diet to a sick or injured pet, or one who is recovering from
surgery. Just be sure the food you choose doesn’t contain onions, onion
powder, or onion salt (see Onions below).
Bones—cooked bones can splinter and cause obstructions or lacerations.
Raw bones should not pose this problem. Bones are not appropriate for pets
who don’t have strong healthy teeth.
Broccoli—best fed in small quantities. If broccoli is steamed, this may
remove the element that’s considered potentially toxic, but hasn’t yet been
proven to cause health threats. Broccoli can be fed at less than 10% of the
diet since it’s rich in vitamins and minerals, and because its antioxidant and
anticancerous properties make it beneficial for the immune system.
Chewing Gum—sugar-free chewing gum contains Xylitol, which may
cause too much insulin to be released. The National Animal Poison Control
Center has determined that Xylitol is a risk to pets. It may cause liver
damage. Symptoms may start within 30 minutes and last for several hours.
You should have your pet evaluated by a veterinarian for treatment.
Chocolate—contains theobromine; semi-sweet and baker’s chocolate
contain significantly higher amounts than milk chocolate does. Cocoa
powder and cooking chocolate are very toxic. Pets may experience anything
from digestive problems to death. Activated charcoal (available at health
food stores and important to keep on hand) may keep a pet from absorbing
too much toxin. There’s no specific antidote, and signs of toxicity may not
show up immediately, so contact your veterinarian right away.
Coffee, Tea, and Caffeine—caffeine can be toxic and fatal at 150 mg/kg of
body weight (1kg = 2.2 pounds). There’s no antidote, so contact your
veterinarian immediately.
Citrus Oil Extracts—may cause vomiting.
Eggs (raw)—may decrease the absorption of the B vitamin biotin, which
could cause skin and hair coat problems. The biotin deficiency may be
avoided by cooking the eggs, or by feeding only the raw yolk and not the
raw white. Raw eggs are thought to be a source of salmonella, though this
may be more true for ordinary store bought eggs than it is for organic and/or
free-range eggs, according to those who frequently eat raw eggs.
Fat Trimmings—may cause pancreatitis.
Fish (raw)—if fed regularly, raw fish may cause a deficiency of the B
vitamin thiamin that may result in loss of appetite and seizures, or in severe
cases, death. Raw salmon, especially if eaten immediately after being
caught, may cause salmon poisoning disease with symptoms resembling
those of canine parvovirus.
Garlic—contains some elements that, if fed in large enough quantities, can
damage red blood cells. This can cause anemia. It’s often used in small
amounts, though, to treat allergies and infections, or to act as a flea
preventive. It’s less toxic than onions, although it does contain some of the
same elements.
Grapes and Raisins—may cause kidney failure because of a currently
unidentified toxin. Seek veterinary help right away if your pet ingests more
than a very small amount. The recommendation is to avoid grapes and
raisins altogether.
Hops—may lead to seizures and death.
Iron—may be toxic to the liver and kidneys and may also damage the lining
of the digestive system. It’s found in many vitamins for humans.
Liver—too much may cause vitamin A toxicity, which can affect muscles
and bones.
Macadamia Nuts—contain an unidentified toxin that may be harmful to the
nervous system, digestive system, and muscles.
Marijuana—may affect the heart rate, depress the nervous system, and
cause vomiting.
Milk and Dairy Products—contain lactose and may cause diarrhea. Many
pets lack the digestive enzyme lactase, which breaks down lactose. Look for
lactose-free products specifically made for pets.
Moldy or Spoiled Food or Garbage—may cause vomiting and diarrhea
because it contains multiple toxins. Severe reactions may affect bodily
organs.
Mushrooms—some varieties are highly toxic. Although most backyard
mushrooms are not in this category, it’s still wise to dig them up completely
right away, especially if you have a curious puppy or kitten. Toxic varieties
may cause coma or death; less toxic varieties may cause diarrhea, reduced
pulse rate, disorientation, and excess salivation. It’s best to seek veterinary
attention immediately.
Onions—contain elements that can be highly toxic to pets if ingested in
large quantities or fed repeatedly in small quantities. Those toxins can cause
red blood cells to burst, and without red blood cells to carry oxygen, pets can
become short of breath. They may also become anemic. Avoid using baby
foods, broths, sauces, table scraps, pizza, Chinese food, etc. if those products
contain onions, onion powder, or onion salt. Also avoid raw, cooked, whole,
chopped, dehydrated, and powdered onions. Be aware that onions may be
part of seasonings and broths, even if they’re not specifically listed on the
label.
Persimmons—seeds may cause inflammation, or an obstruction in the
intestines.
Pits from Fruits—may cause obstructions in the digestive tract. Some pits
—such as plums, peaches, and apricots—may also contain an element that
can lead to cyanide poisoning. The same is true for the cores and seeds of
pears and apples.
Potatoes—peelings, stems, sprouted parts, and green looking potatoes
contain oxalates that may affect a pet’s digestive, nervous, and urinary tract
systems. The white inner part of potatoes is okay for pets.
Rhubarb—leaves contain oxalates that may affect the digestive, nervous,
and urinary tract systems.
Salt—consuming too much may lead to electrolyte (sodium, potassium,
chloride) imbalances. Sources include ice melts, rock salt, and regular salt. If
you put salt out in the yard to deter snails, be sure your pet isn’t going to lick
it up. Salt ingestion may be treatable, though dogs have succumbed after
consuming very large quantities.
Sugar and Sugary Foods—may lead to dehydration or bacterial overload or
imbalance in the digestive system. They may also lead to obesity, diabetes,
and dental problems.
Table Scraps—never feed in large amounts; make table scraps less than
10% of a pet’s diet. They aren’t nutritionally balanced and they may contain
large quantities of onions, garlic, and mushrooms. They may also include
excessive fat, unless it’s been trimmed away from the meat.
Tobacco—nicotine in tobacco products may cause rapid heartbeat, collapse,
coma, and even death.
Tomato—leaves and stems contain oxalates that may affect a pet’s digestive,
nervous, and urinary tract systems.
Yeast Dough—may expand, producing excessive gas in the digestive
system. This may cause pain, or even possible rupture of the stomach or
intestines.
Foods that may cause adverse reactions
Dogs: Cats:
Wheat Wheat Milk Milk and Dairy Products
Eggs Eggs
Brewer’s Yeast Brewer’s Yeast
Corn and Corn Oil Corn and Corn Oil
Pork Pork
Dogs (continued): Cats (continued):
Lamb Fish Chicken Chicken Turkey Turkey Beef and Beef By-Products
Beef
Soybeans
Rice Some alternatives to use in place of foods on the above lists,
especially for dogs, are: duck and potatoes, venison and potatoes, or rabbit
and potatoes. Cats would require higher levels of duck, venison, or rabbit,
but only minimal amounts of potatoes.
***
For a wealth of information on the Internet, you can do searches in
several different ways, using the quotation marks as shown. Try any of the
following: “(item name) for dogs” or “(item name) for cats”; “(item
name)+dogs” or “(item name)+cats”; “chocolate for dogs” or “chocolate
toxicity for dogs”, and so forth.
32: Poison-Proofing Your Home and Garden
H
ouses, yards, garages, and garden tool sheds are filled with potential
toxins that could affect pets. Anything that’s hazardous for adults and
children is usually hazardous for animals as well. Even some ecologically
‘green’ products may contain certain elements that are toxic to animals.
But when it comes to household pets, especially the younger and more
curious ones, there’s another very important consideration to keep in mind.
In every home, without exception, you’ll find a wide variety of ordinary
foods and everyday items that can also put your pets at risk. These include
numerous things you may never even have thought about as being
potentially dangerous to animals.
In this chapter, you’ll find lists that will help you identify many of the
items your pets should never be allowed to eat, play with, or come into
contact with.
We’ll also be looking at some other important facts you should know,
including:
• possible long-term effects from ingesting toxic substances
• can pets tell the difference between toxic and non-toxic items
• how can you obtain immediate advice in a poisoning emergency
• how can you poison-proof your home for your pets, regardless of their age
• poisonous plants to avoid, and safe plants to have around pets

Important things to know

Because every toxic substance a pet ingests is a cause for concern, if you
ever see your pet consume something that could potentially be harmful, or
you even suspect your pet may have ingested something toxic, you should
immediately contact your veterinarian or an animal poison control center,
whether any symptoms are present or not.
Long term effects
It’s important to keep in mind that you may not be able to see the toxic
effects of some poisons until 3-4 days later, and you may not even see some
of the long term effects of intestinal, liver, kidney, or other organ damage for
weeks, months, or even years afterwards. Your veterinarian can tell you what
to look for in case your pet begins to have unusual symptoms that only
appear later on.
Do pets know the difference?
Most adult animals can instinctively distinguish between edible and
nonedible items, or even recognize the difference between those that are
toxic and non-toxic to them, but this isn’t necessarily true for puppies and
kittens. Many times they will leave the toxic items alone, but sometimes
curiosity simply gets the better of them, or the toxic product may have a
certain taste appeal they just can’t resist. This is especially true for antifreeze
and certain foods. Toxic chemicals that have been sprayed in an area,
especially while the chemical is still wet, may also attract a pet.
Antifreeze is a very highly toxic product that requires immediate action.
Because it tastes sweet, pets are very easily attracted to it, whether it’s
coming from a leaky container or it’s on the driveway. They often don’t
recognize it as being something toxic because it does taste so appealing.
Yet, as little as one teaspoon of antifreeze can be deadly to a cat, and less
than a tablespoon can be deadly to a ten pound dog, all within a matter of a
few hours, so you’ll need to take exceptionally quick action if your pet licks
it up or gets it on his or her paws.
You’ll find additional information about treating Antifreeze Toxicity in
Chapter 30.
When it comes to human food, almost all of it is appealing to most animals,
but while some human foods are perfectly safe in limited quantities, there are
others that can be highly toxic for pets, even in small quantities, as you
learned in the previous chapter about Foods All Pets Should Avoid. The
problem is, pets don’t know the difference between healthy human foods and
those that are harmful for them. And some pets definitely don’t seem to
know when they’ve already had too much of a good thing!
For that reason, everyone in the family needs to program themselves to think
ahead of time about what they feed their pets, inadvertently spill on the floor,
place on a low coffee-table, or leave out on dining room tables, kitchen
counters, or even wrapped as gifts under the Christmas tree. Anyone who’s
ever discovered their pet with a fully or partially eaten pot roast, turkey,
chicken, meatloaf, box of chocolates, fruitcake, alcoholic beverage, or any
other tasty treat has no doubt learned this important lesson!
Another situation when a family needs to be particularly cautious arises
whenever toxic chemicals are sprayed in the house or around the yard. Pets
can easily detect the chemical scent while the spray is wet, and possibly even
after it’s dry. They may instinctively tend to avoid it, at least while it’s wet,
although not always, so it’s best to keep them indoors, or in an unsprayed
room, until any of these sprays have completely dried.
If pets do walk through the treated area while it’s still wet, you’ll definitely
need to wash their feet thoroughly with water and mild soap, right away,
before they have a chance to lick them. Avoid soaking the feet because the
effects of soaking the skin may allow the toxins to be absorbed more easily.
Be sure to dry the feet and legs thoroughly after washing.
Coping with a poison emergency
If your pet has ingested, or come into contact with, any toxic substance, see
the section about Poisoning in Chapter 30, Emergency First Aid
Guidelines for More Traumatic Events. You’ll find techniques described
in that section to reduce the effect of poisons your pet may have ingested or
come into contact with, as well as ways to speed the elimination of those
poisons from the system.
Do not induce vomiting, however, until after you’ve contacted your
veterinarian or a poison control center, because certain substances, such as
acid, alkaline, or petroleum-based products, can all cause harm if they’re
vomited back up.
Animal Poison Control Center Information Since time is extra critical in
cases of poisoning, you don’t want to have to be searching for a phone
number under such stressful conditions. Right now would be an excellent
time to be sure the phone numbers for both your veterinarian and an animal
poison control center are posted near your own phone . . . I’ll wait while you
do that!
Also be sure that everyone in the family, as well as any pet caregivers,
knows exactly where to find those phone numbers in case of an emergency.
In the United States, the national Animal Poison Control Center
(APCC) is available to help you 24/7 all year long. The phone number is
888-426-4435. Just as there is with any veterinary or emergency hospital
visit, there’s a fee for the phone consultation that can be billed to your credit
card, but it’s a small price to pay to help save your pet’s life in an
emergency.
About poison proofing
Since pets are very curious, they often investigate places you might never
even think about, especially if they’re “home alone” for any length of time.
Some even become experts at opening cupboard and refrigerator doors and
drawers. Others tear boxes apart, open strong plastic packaging, and poke
holes in, or even eat, both plastic and metallic containers to get at whatever
interests them.
This can have disastrous or even deadly results if your pet ends up
ingesting caustic household cleaners, laundry products, or corrosive
substances, such as regular or button-type batteries, or sharp metal objects,
such as dog food cans or other types of metallic containers. Caustic products
can burn the mouth and esophagus and cause vomiting, diarrhea, and
stomach ulcers that may lead to internal bleeding and other complications.
Metallic products can lacerate the mouth, throat, or intestines and cause
severe bleeding.
If you know you have a very inquisitive pet, you’ll need to take extra
care to determine where and how securely you need to store toxic items, or
even those items that are seemingly safe, such as your pet’s food, or the
neckrest you use that’s filled with buckwheat hulls.
One of the best things you can do is to take a tour of your entire house,
yard, garage, and garden tool shed thinking exactly the way your dog or cat
does. As a truly dedicated pet parent, you may even want to take at least a
part of the tour on your hands and knees so you’re actually down around a
pet’s nose and eye level! But you’ll also need to consider how high up your
pets may be able to climb or jump.
You do have to be particularly creative when it comes to keeping toxic
items, including plants, away from cats, since they can usually scale the
heights. Some dogs are also very clever when it comes to finding unique and
inventive ways to get up onto higher places, such as kitchen countertops.
One creative genius, caught in the act by a video camera while the family
and an animal behaviorist watched from a remote location nearby, was able
to open a drawer and also the stove door. A leap from the open stove door up
onto the open drawer was all it took for him to gain complete access to
everything that was out on the countertop!
During a tour of your house, what would your pets find interesting to
sniff, lick, chew on, or eat? If any of the things they’d be interested in are
toxic, those are the very items that need to be put well out of reach. That
may mean keeping food, plants, cleaning products, miscellaneous items, etc.
stored well above counter-top level instead of below, or far back on the
counter top, well away from a pet’s long reach. The best place to put them
may even be in cabinets or drawers secured with baby locks.
To help you poison-proof your home, check out the ASPCA website at
http://www.aspca.org/ideum/petsafe.html. This part of the website provides a
unique online experience where you can actually “walk” through an
animated model of a house containing items poisonous to pets. It’s called
“Make Your Pet’s Home Poison Safe.” In every room of the model home,
you can place your cursor on each item to discover why, or how, it may be
harmful to your pet, or how to store it safely.

Toxic substance list

The following products and substances are only a few of the many that can
be toxic to animals. See if any of them come as a surprise to you. Medicines
• Tylenol® and any other products containing acetaminophen
• Motrin®, Nuprin®, Aleve®, and any other products containing ibuprofen
• Sleeping pills, tranquilizers, and sedatives
• Diet pills
• Laxatives
• Prescription and over-the-counter medications
• Vitamin, mineral, and other supplements for humans, especially those
containing iron
Cosmetics
• Hair spray
• Hair coloring products
• Nail polish and nail polish remover
• Perfumes
• Deodorants
Cleaning and laundry
• Chlorine bleach, ammonia, and other disinfectants
• Kitchen, bath, tile, and drain cleaners (many contain chlorine)
• Laundry and dishwashing detergents
• Other soaps and cleansers
• Fabric softener sheets
Around the house
• Water in chemically treated toilet bowls
• Cigarettes and matches
• Batteries—both regular and button-type
• Mothballs
• Silverfish packets
• Ant bait traps or wet insecticide spray
• Rodent control bait and traps; glue traps
Food and beverages
• Coffee grounds
• Grapes and raisins
• Chocolate—in any form
• Yeast dough
• Contaminated food
• Alcoholic beverages
Car and garage
• Antifreeze/coolant—leaked or spilled onto the driveway or still in
containers
• Any product containing ethylene glycol
• Windshield wiper fluid
• Brake fluid
• Gasoline and kerosene
• Paints, paint thinners, and paint removers
• Wood preservatives, varnishes, and stains
Yard and garden
• Insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides
• Rodent control traps and baits for mice, rats, etc.
• Snail and slug bait
• Fertilizers and plant growth products
Assorted items
• Flea pesticides containing permethrin (ingested)
• Lead-based products and scrapings, or flakes from lead-based paints
• Rubbing alcohol
• Liquid potpourri
• Pennies
• Glowsticks and glow jewelry
• Hand and foot warmers
• Neck rests containing buckwheat hulls or other seed-like materials
Seasonal
 • Tinsel, ornaments, ornament strings, angelhair
• Ornaments made from food
• Ribbons, tape, bows, wrapping paper
• Wrapped food items placed under the tree
• Candles, baskets of holly, certain Christmas plants
Critters
• Giant Toads
• Salamanders
• Blister beetles, even if dead; bombardier beetles
• Frogs and birds that have eaten poisonous beetles
• Infected birds
Inhaled gases and fumes
• Heating or cooking gases
• Ammonia
• Carbon Monoxide
The above list is only the tip of the iceberg. There are also cold and hot
weather, as well as other seasonal and holiday items to become familiar
with (New Year’s, Easter, 4th of July, Thanksgiving, Christmas, etc.). You can
find much more information about toxic and/or poisonous items by doing an
Internet search.

Animals and plants

Animals are curious by nature and have a tendency to explore out-of-

theway places such as woodpiles, areas overgrown with ground cover or
weeds, and all parts of a garden. This exploration can put them into contact
not only with insects and toxic chemical spray residue, but also with some
toxic plants, shrubs, trees, and flowers as well.
Many pet parents, especially those who have cats, protect their animals
from those dangers by keeping them in the house. One of the most common
complaints I get from cats is that they miss going outside to commune with
nature and smell all of the wonderful flowers and foliage. For that reason, I
often tell my clients it’s a good idea to keep some types of plants inside the
house. However, it’s very important to know which plants are safe to use
around pets, and which are not.
***
 You may not even have realized how many common indoor and outdoor
plants are poisonous to cats and dogs. To your good fortune, your pets may
never have been attracted to them so far, but there’s still much you can do,
even now, to poison-proof your yard, as well as your home, when it comes to
things that grow. The lists on the following pages should help you do that.
The poisonous plants on this list have been known to cause serious
reactions or even fatalities among pets who have ingested them.
Amaryllis Kalanchoe Pothos Branching Ivy
Autum Crocus Lilies (Some) Rhododendron California Ivy
Azalea
Castor Bean Marijuana
Narcissus
Sago Palm English Ivy
bulbs Schefflera Glacier Ivy Chrysanthemum Oleander Tulip bulbs
Needlepoint
Ivy
Cyclamen Peace Lily Yew Sweetheart Ivy
***
The plants on the following expanded list are also considered to be toxic
to animals.
• This list is definitely not all-inclusive, so please don’t use it as your
only reference. If you’re not sure about a particular plant, it will be very
important to find out about its toxicity, or safety, from a reputable source.
• Plants on the Toxic Plant List are there for two reasons. Either the whole
plant is toxic, or only certain parts pose a problem of toxicity. You’ll need to
do some research on the individual plants you’re interested in if you want to
know whether the whole plant is toxic, or only certain parts of it are.
• If only certain parts of a plant are considered to be toxic, those parts could
include one or more of the following:
leaves bulbs flowers
stems seeds foliage roots seed pods berries bark seed pits unripe fruit
Other toxic parts may include needles and thorns, as well as the sap of
cactus, the skin of avocados, and green potato skins and sprouts. Yet, the
fruit of avocados and tomatoes, and the white part of potatoes are all edible
and nutritious for animals.
• In the case of some plants, ingesting only a very small amount is
enough to cause a severe reaction, while with other plants, symptoms may
not be noticeable unless a significant amount has been ingested.
• Reactions to ingesting any of the plants named on the following list may
range from minor to major, and could include:
Short term vomiting and/or diarrhea
Skin irritations from the juice, sap, or thorns
Burning pain, throat swelling, breathing difficulties, or stomach upsets
caused by oxalate crystals in plant juices or sap
Organ failure, or even death
• Some plants that may not be toxic for dogs will be toxic for cats, and
vice versa. If you have horses, you’ll need to research other lists of plants
that are specifically toxic for them.
• To obtain more in-depth information about individual plants, poisonous
plant parts, or symptoms associated with plant poisoning, you can do an
Internet search using “toxic plants+animals”.
• To find lists that are more specific to each animal species, try using “toxic
plants+ . . .” with any of the following words: dogs, cats, rabbits, horses,
etc. To expand your search, you can also try substituting the word
“poisonous” for the word “toxic.”
• If there’s ever any doubt about what your pet has ingested, always contact
your veterinarian or animal poison control center immediately.
Toxic Plants
A
- Aconite
- Agapanthus
- Alfalfa
- Alocasia
- Aloe vera
(sap from sheath)
- Amaryllis
- Andromeda japonica
- Australian nut
- Autumn crocus
- Avocado (fruit is ok)
- Azalea
B
- Baby’s breath
- Bird-of-paradise
- Black locust
- Bittersweet
- Bleeding heart
- Bougainvillea (thorns)
- Boxwood
- Buckeye
- Buddhist pine
- Buttercup (Ranunculus) C
- Cactus (thorns and sap)
- Caladium
- Castor bean
- Cherry
- Chinaberry tree
- Chinese evergreen
- Christmas rose
- Chrysanthemum
- Clematis
- Cordatum
- Corn (Cornstalk) plant
- Corydalis
- Crown of thorns
- Cycads
- Cyclamen
D
- Daffodil (Narcissus)
- Dumb cane
- Dieffenbachia
• Charming dief.
• Gold dief.
• Variable dief.
- Dracaena
• Gold dust dracaena
• Red-margined
dracaena
• Ribbon plant (d.
Sanderiana)
• Striped dracaena
• Warneckei dracaena E
- Eggplant (fruit is ok)
- Elephant’s ear
F
- Fava bean
- Ferns
• Asparagus fern
• Bracken fern
• Emerald fern
• Lace fern
• Plumosa fern
- Fiddle leaf fig
- Flamingo plant
- Florida beauty
- Four o’clock plant
- Foxglove
- Fruit salad plant
G
- Gladiola
H
- Heavenly bamboo
- Hemlock
- Holly (berries)
- Hops
- Hurricane plant
- Hyacinth
- Hydrangea
I
- India rubber plant
- Iris
- Ivy
• Boston ivy
• Branching ivy
• Devil’s ivy
• English ivy
• German ivy
• Glacier ivy
• Ground ivy
(Creeping Charlie)
• Needlepoint ivy
• Poison ivy
• Sweetheart ivy J
- Jack-in-the-pulpit
- Japanese yew
- Java bean
- Jerusalem cherry
- Jessamine
- Jimson weed
- Jonquil
K
- Kalanchoe
L
- Lantana
- Larkspur
- Laurels
• Cuban laurel
• Indian laurel
- Lupines
- Lily
• African lily
• Belladonna lilly
• Blood lily
• Calla lily
• Checkered lily
• Climbing lily
• Crinum lily
• Day lily
• Easter lily
• Glory lily
• Guernsey lily
• Japanese lily
• Kaffir lily
• Lily of the Nile
• Lily of the valley
• Orange day lily
• Peace lily
• Peruvian lily
• Red lily
• Spider lily
• Stargazer lily
• Tiger lily
• Wood lily
M
- Macadamia nut
- Madagascar dragon tree
- Manchineel (sap)
- Marble queen
- Marijuana
- Mexican breadfruit
- Mistletoe (berries)
- Monkshood
- Morning glory
- Mother-in-law (Dief.)
- Mushrooms
(many species)
- Mustards
N
- Narcissus
- Nephthytis
- Nightshade (Belladonna) O
- Oak tree (acorns)
- Oleander
- Onion
P
- Philodendron
• Cutleaf phil.
(Ceriman)
• Fiddle-leaf phil.
• Heartleaf phil.
• Horsehead phil.
• Lacy tree phil.
• Panda phil.
• Red emerald phil.
• Red princess phil.
• Saddleleaf phil.
• Variegated phil.
- Pencil cactus
- Poinsettia
- Poison oak
- Pokeweed
- Poppies
- Potato
(green parts, sprouts)
- Pothos
• Golden pothos
• Satin pothos
- Precatory bean
- Primrose
Q
- Queensland nut
R
- Rayless goldenrod (Jimmyweed)
- Ribbon plant
- Rhododendron
- Rhubarb
- Rosary pea
S
- Sago palm
- Seeds
• Almond seeds
• Apple seeds
• Apricot seeds
• Avocado seeds
• Black cherry seeds
• Black locust seeds
• Cherry seeds
• Crabapple seeds
• Morning glory seeds
• Nectarine seeds
• Pansy seeds
• Peach seeds
• Pear seeds
• Plum seeds
• Violet seeds
• Yew seeds
- Schefflera
- Scotch broom
- Star of Bethlehem
- String of pearls
- Sweet pea
- Swiss cheese plant
T
- Taro vine
- Toadstools
- Tomato (non-fruit parts)
- Tulip
W
- Water hemlock
- Weeping fig
(Ficus benjamina)
- Wisteria
Y
- Yesterday, Today,
Tomorrow
- Yucca

Is anything safe?

After reading about all of the plants that are toxic to animals, you may be
wondering if there’s anything safe to use. Happily, there are many more non-
toxic plants available than there are plants that are usually harmful.
An abbreviated list of “safe” plants follows, but you can find a wide
variety of longer lists, some of which are very comprehensive, by doing an
Internet search on “non-toxic plants+animals”.

The plants on this list are generally thought to be safe for most
animals

• The following list is only a sampling of generally safe plants, so if

you’re not sure about a particular plant you’d like to have, it will be
important to find out about its safety, or toxicity, from a reputable source. I
emphasize “reputable” because, on some “safe” lists, I’ve found a few
plants that are normally listed as toxic.
• Within the genus of a plant name (Cactus, Fern, Ivy, Lily, Orchid, Palm,
etc.) there may be only some species that are safe, while others species may
be toxic. Therefore, it’s important to check out the specific species name you
may want to use, and not assume that every variety of that genus is safe.
• Plants on this list are among those that have not been reported to cause
systemic effects in animals, or have serious effects on their gastro-intestinal
tracts. Yet, if an individual animal is allergic to a specific plant, he or she
could potentially have a reaction, even to a plant that’s generally considered
to be safe.
• Keep in mind that any plant an animal ingests, including grass, may
produce undesirable symptoms, such as vomiting and/or diarrhea, or
obviously not feeling well, but these symptoms are generally mild, they
don’t last for very long, and they may not require any treatment.
• Ingesting certain parts of even “safe” plants could possibly result in
choking, or injuries to the mouth or throat.
• If “safe” plants have been treated with insecticides, plant food, or
fertilizers, a pet could experience an adverse reaction, not to the plant itself,
but to one of the chemicals that’s been used.
• If there’s ever any doubt about what your pet has ingested, always contact
your veterinarian or animal poison control center immediately.
“Safe” Plants
A
- Acorn squash
- African violet
- Aluminum plant
- Aregelia
- Aster
B
- Baby tears
- Bachelor button
- Bamboo
- Banana
- Banana squash
- Begonia
- Black haw
- Black hawthorn
- Blue-eyed daisy
- Bottlebrush
- Bromeliad
- Buttercup squash
- Butterfly squash
C
- Cactus
• Christmas cactus
• Easter lily cactus
• Living rock cactus
• Mistletoe cactus
• Shrimp cactus
• Thimble cactus
- Callistemon
- Camellia
- Candycorn plant
- Candle plant
- Carob
- Casaba melon
- Cast iron plant
- Chamaedorea
- Chaparral
- China aster
- Chlorophytum
- Cinnamon
- Comfrey
- Coral bells
- Cornflower
- Crape myrtle
- Cucumber
- Cushion moss D
- Desert trumpet E
- Easter daisy
F
- Ferns
• Ball fern
• Boston fern
• Carrot fern
• Dallas fern
• Duffy fern
• Feather fern
• Fishtail fern
• Hen & chicken fern
• Japanese holly fern
• King & queen fern
• Moss fern
• Mother fern
• Parsley fern
• Rabbit’s foot fern
• Roosevelt fern
• Silver table fern
• Squirrels fern
• Sword fern
• Verona fern
- Figleaf gourd
- Fingernail plant
- Fire weed
- Fluffy ruffles
- Freckle face
- Friendship plant
G
- Gloxinia
- Goldfish plant
- Golden bells
- Grape hyacinth
H
- Hawthorne
- Herbs (most)
- Hickory
- Hollyhock
- Honey plant
- Honeydew melon
- Honeysuckle fuchsia
- Hubbard squash
- Huckleberry
I
- Ice plant
- Irish moss
- Ivy
• Grape ivy
• Kenilworth ivy
• Spider ivy
• Swedish ivy
J
- Jacob's ladder
- Jade plant
- Japanese moss
- Jasmine
- Joseph's coat
K
- Kahili ginger plant
L
- Lace flower vine
- Lilies
• Leopard lily
• Mariposa lily
• Palm lily
• Prairie lily
• Resurrection lily
• Saint Bernard’s lily
• Sand lily
• Scarborough lily
• Sego lily
• Star lily
• Torch lily
• Turf lily
- Lipstick plant
- Little zebra plant
M
- Magnolia
- Marigold
- Mosaic plant
- Moss rose
- Muskmellon
N
- Natal plum
- Night blooming cereus O
- Orchids
• Brazalian orchid
• Christmas orchid
• Dancing doll orchid
• Golden lace orchid
• Golden shower orch.
• Jewel orchid
• Leopard orchid
• Lily-of-the-valley or.
• Old world orchid
• Pansy orchid
• Rainbow orchid
• Scarlet orchid
• Spice orchid
- Orange star
- Oregon grape
P
- Painted lady
- Palms
Y Z - Zinnia
- Yellow-flowered gourd - Zebra plant - Zucchini squash
- Yerba linda
• Bamboo palm
• Belmore sentry palm
• Bottle palm
• Christmas palm
• Date palm
• Dwarf palm
• Fan tufted palm
• Figleaf palm
• Good luck palm
• Kentia palm
• Kenya palm
• Lady palm
• Manila palm
• Neanthe bella palm
• Paradise palm
• Parlor palm
• Windmill palm
- Pampas grass
- Peperomias
- Polka dot plant
- Porcelain flower
- Primrose
- Prayer plant
Q
- Queen's spiderwort
- Queencup
- Queensland arrowroot R
- Ribbon plant
- Royal velvet plant
- Rubber plant
S
- Sand verbena
- Satin pellionia
- Silver bell
- Silver heart
- Silver star
- Snapdragon
- Spider plant
- Star jasmine
- Strawberry
- Sweet William
T
- Tropical moss
U
- Umbrella plant
V
- Velvet plant
- Venus fly trap
W
- Waffle plant
- Wandering Jew
- Wax plant
The following plants are also considered to be safe for cats:
• Catmint • Gingko Tree • Rosemary
• Catnip • Oat Grass • Sage
• Chamomile • Parsley • Salvia
• Dill • Peppermint • Thyme
***
When it comes to protecting our pets, as the saying goes, an ounce of
prevention is worth a pound of cure. Hopefully, all of this information will
be useful for you, or be something you can share with others to help them
keep their pets safe, too.
In Loving Memory
C
hop Chop, one of my beloved Shih-Tzu friends, taught me many important
lessons throughout the 14 wonderful years we spent together.
As I was writing this series of books, and he was nearing his 14th
birthday, he taught me one final lesson I’d like to share with you—the lesson
of letting go.
With all of my research and knowledge, and knowing about all of the
possibilities for healing that this series of books contains, the time finally
came when I wasn’t able to offer him even one more day of quality life.
I realized that sometimes the moment comes so swiftly we don’t have the
opportunity to use any healing methods at all. We simply have to accept the
fact that the time has come for our pets to leave, and the most loving thing
we can do is to let them go.
Chop Chop seemed to be doing fine, or so I thought. Then one day, he
was gone. All I could think was, “ . . . but he was fine yesterday, he was fine
last week. What happened?”
I was preparing to leave for a book tour in South America and wanted to
be sure Chop Chop had enough medicine to last while I was away, so I
called my vet and asked for a prescription refill. However, a year had passed
since Chop Chop’s last blood test, so the vet suggested I bring him in for
routine tests just to be sure nothing else needed attention prior to my trip.
On Monday, the urine test came back with satisfactory results, but the
blood tests showed fairly high levels of calcium. The vet told me this could
mean any number of things, including kidney trouble, or even a tumor. We
arranged for an appointment on Tuesday to have some x-rays taken.
Those pictures revealed that Chop Chop had many stones in both of his
kidneys, and about twenty stones clustered in his bladder. Five of them were
ready to pass through the urinary tract. On closer inspection of the xrays, we
could see three stones already embedded in the urethra, and they couldn’t be
passed on through because of their size. If they weren’t removed surgically,
he would die within a few days.
After the x-rays were taken, Chop Chop seemed to stop being his brave
self any longer. It was almost as if he was saying, “Well, now you know, and
I don’t have to continue putting up a brave front any longer.”
 For the remainder of that day, I observed that he wasn’t able to rest
easily, he had a problem lying down, and he’d frequently move from place to
place, obviously trying to find somewhere comfortable to settle down. By
Tuesday night he was moaning, and he wasn’t able to “find a spot” when we
went for our walk.
On Tuesday he also stopped eating, although he’d always been the kind
of dog who’d lived for food and treats. He stopped sleeping too, where
previously he’d slept 20 hours a day. But Tuesday night, nobody slept, even
though his discomfort was somewhat relieved with heavy pain medication.
I wanted a second opinion about his condition, so on Wednesday
morning, we drove the distance to see my favorite vet and friend, Dr.
Sigdestad. Dr. Sig, as I call him, clearly laid out our options.
Chop Chop could undergo surgery on his urethra, an operation that
would last about two hours. But because he was just one month short of his
14th birthday, and because so many stones would still be in his kidneys and
bladder, chances of a satisfactory recovery were very slim. The recuperation
time would take about a month, maybe longer, and he would need special
care, and a special diet for the rest of his life, which might, or might not,
keep more stones from forming.
I knew immediately that having him undergo surgery of that nature at his
age was not the loving thing to do for him. I was going to be leaving for five
weeks, and even though he’d still have plenty of loving care and attention at
home, I also knew that both the physical and emotional toll he’d have to go
through would make it much too difficult for him to endure such an ordeal
with any quality of life.
At that moment, it became very clear to me. I finally had to make one of
the hardest decisions of my life, but it was a decision I’d promised him long
ago that, if necessary, I’d make for him when the time came.
Yes, it did happen quickly—almost too quickly for me to even fully
realize right away that his condition was terminal. And definitely too fast to
use any alternative healing therapies in one last effort to save his life.
His departure was swift, but he wanted it that way. I know it was his
final gift to me to leave quickly, without lingering, and without giving me
false hope. I know the timing was right. And I’m certain that it was what he
wanted. I’d told him many times that I wouldn’t let him suffer, and he
trusted me. He had faith in me, and I couldn’t let him down when he was
clearly ready to go.
 Over time, the many wonderful memories of my precious friend have
helped my heart heal. He taught me that it’s important for us to let go when
it’s time, and he taught me to always find joy in living life fully. I couldn’t
have asked for a better teacher from whom to learn these two very important
lessons.
In loving memory, this book is dedicated to you, my FRIEND and
TEACHER!
CHOP CHOP 3/17/92 – 2/22/06
Epilogue
I
started writing my first book, What Animals Tell Me, approximately ten
years ago. When I completed it, I thought I was finished, but in a very short
time, I discovered I had more than enough material for a second book, Pet’s
Have Feelings, Too! It definitely was “more than enough material,” not only
for a second book, but also for a third.
Then, when I started working on the third book, I found so many
additional things I wanted to share with my readers that, before I knew it, the
third book had expanded into a series of three!
Right now, you’re holding the third and final book of the series, For
Pet’s Sake, Do Something! How To Heal Your Pets Using Alternative and
Complementary Therapies. This book includes a variety of alternative and
complementary healing methods. Some you can use at home, while others
must be provided by a professional. I’ve also included supplementary
information about: how to pre-test remedies before you buy or use them;
what you need to have in an emergency supply kit; what you need to know
about some emergency first aid procedures, and how to protect your pet
from toxic and poisonous substances. There’s also interesting information
about how pets age, as well as how to provide for your pet’s future if
something unexpectedly happens to you.
If you haven’t yet read the other two books in the series, be sure to look for
them.
For Pet’s Sake, Do Something! Book One: How to Communicate with
Your Pets and Help Them Heal teaches you how to carry on a conversation
with your pets using picture telepathy so you can talk to them about health
issues, as well as have conversations with them about everyday things. Book
One also introduces you to a number of spiritual and energetic healing
methods you can use for the benefit of your pets, and provides you with
seven guided meditations to use for healing purposes.
For Pet’s Sake, Do Something! Book Two: How to Heal Your Sick,
Overfed and Bored Pets with Nutrition, Supplements, Herbs and Exercise
provides you with a wealth of ideas about how to use fresh whole natural
foods, vitamins, minerals, herbs, and other nutritional supplements to
improve the overall health of your pets, or even help them recover from
some serious health challenges.
You can order any of the five books on Amazon.com, or through my
website: www.petcommunicator.com.
Although I probably still have enough material and interesting case studies
to fill several more books, Book Three of this series should be my last one
for awhile.
Over time, I’ve come to the realization that my life can be divided into
different decades, each one reflecting my work and my passion during that
particular period of time. Since I’ve researched and written steadily for the
past ten years, the writing decade is now over and it’s time for me to explore
some of the other passions in my life.
This last book, however, completes an inner yearning I’ve had for a number
of years. Ever since my own dog, Chop Chop, clearly told me I needed to
“Do something” to help him when he first lay dying at the age of two, I’ve
wanted to share the many successful healing methods I’ve discovered over
the years with as many people as I could.
Writing the two books about what pets have told me during my
communications with them, and the three books in this “how to” series has
been a special part of my Life Assignment. It gives me great joy to know
that, with the material they contain, you, too, are now empowered to Do
Something for your own beloved pets!
Dr. Monica Diedrich Anaheim, California, USA
www.petcommunicator.com September, 2008
About The Author
M
onica Diedrich knew she could hear animals speak ever since she was
eight years old. By the time she was 18, she’d also begun to share the gift of
her insight and guidance with humans, helping them with their life
challenges, as well. Since 1990, however, her work has been devoted
exclusively to the well-being of animals.
She holds the degree of Doctor of Metaphysics and is an ordained
minister. Studying Eastern traditions developed her understanding of the
natural interconnection between humans and animals, as well as
demonstrating the importance of attaining healing at all three levels—
physically, emotionally, and spiritually.
In addition to providing both introductory and private consultations, Dr.
Monica presents seminars and teaches classes in both English and Spanish.
She’s also written five books about how to help animals heal, and about the
art of animal communication. She’s been a guest on various radio shows, and
is a regular contributor to several TV shows, including one aired in South
Korea.
Her first book has been translated into Spanish, Japanese, and Croatian,
and her second and third books have both been translated into Spanish.
Her first four books are already award winners, too.
What Animals Tell Me,
The 2001 National Self-Published Book Awards from Writer’s Digest,
Certificate of Merit
The 2003 Nonfiction Award, Farmer’s Market Online, “Direct from the
Author Book Award,” First Place
Pets Have Feelings, Too!
An award winning finalist in the Animals/Pets:General category of the USA
Booknews Best Books 2006 National Awards Listed on
USABookNews.com for five months
For Pet's Sake Do Something! Book One: How to Communnicate with
Your Pets and Help Them Heal
Award Winning Finalist in the Animals/Pets:Health category of the National
Best Books 2007 Awards
Listed on USABookNews.com for five months
 For Pet's Sake Do Something! Book Two: How to Heal Your Sick,
Overfed and Bored Pets with Nutrition, Supplements, Herbs and Exercise
Award Winning Finalist in the Animals/Pets:Health Category of the
National Best Books 2007 Awards. This book was listed on
USABookNews.com for five months
Won the Bronze Finalist award in the Pet’s Category in ForeWord
Magazine’s 2007 Book of the Year Award. This award was presented in a
ceremony held during the 2008 BookExpo America event in Los Angeles,
California.
A native of Argentina, Monica has lived in Southern California for over
35 years, with her husband, and children, both human and pet. She can be
reached through her website at www.petcommunicator.com.