Bemacid | BEMAPLEX

Application

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Index Page

1. General information 4

2. Classification of the BEMACID dyes 4

2.1. BEMACID E dyes
2.1.1 BEMACID E-TL ternary

2.2. BEMACID N dyes

2.2.2 BEMACID N -TF ternary

2.3. BEMACID F dyes

3. Classification of the BEMAPLEX dyes 4

3.1. BEMAPLEX N dyes

3.2. BEMAPLEX M dyes

3.2.1 BEMAPLEX M-T ternary

3.3. BEMAPLEX D dyes

4. Dissolving the dyes 5

5. Selection of dyes and auxiliaries for

dyeing polyamide 5
5.1. Textile auxiliaries for dyeing polyamide
5.2. Influence of the polyamide fibre
5.3. Dyeing processes on PA
5.4. Aftertreatment of polyamide

6. Selection of dyes and auxiliaries for dyeing wool 8

7. Dyeing process for wool 9

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1. General information
BEMACID dyes are acid dyes for dyeing synthetic polyamides
and wool. They are applied in the neutral to weakly acidic pH
range. They are notable for their easy application, good wear
fastness and high brilliance, and they permit the production of
shades covering a wide range of colour tones.
BEMAPLEX dyes are 1:2 metal complex dyes and are also mem-
bers of the acid dye family. Due to their characteristics and excel-
lent wear fastness, this class of dyes is especially suitable for
medium and deep shades on polyamide and wool in all forms.
Acid dyes differ in their affinity to polyamide, their rate of strike
(kinetics) and in various dyeing parameters such as pH depend-
ence, migration behaviour, combinability and coverage of materi-
al-induced affinity differences. BEMACID and BEMAPLEX dyes
are therefore divided into three dyeing groups, which permit the
user to select suitable elements for a particular dyeing formula-
tion.
2. Classification of the BEMACID dyes
Based on their migrating power, build-up (affinity) and combina-
bility, the BEMACID dyestuffs are classified in one of the following
groups:
2.1. BEMACID E dyes
BEMACID E dyes are small-molecule elements with only one sul-
pho group. They have a very high migration capacity and cover
material-related affinity differences well. They are distinguished by
high migrating power, good coverage of material-induced affinity
differences and very good combinability. They go on to the fibre
rapidly even at low temperatures. The light fastness of the
BEMACID E dyes is very high and meets the stringent require-
ments of the carpet industry. On the other hand they exhibit
only moderate wet fastness properties in medium and deep
shades. As a result, the following applications are suitable for the
BEMACID E dyes: Home textiles and decorative items as well as
light to medium shades on outerwear articles, underwear and
hosiery.
2.1.1 BEMACID E-TL ternary
BEMACID Yellow E-TL, BEMACID Red E-TL and BEMACID Blue
E-TL are the ternary elements of acid dyes with very good level-
ling properties with a regular build-up, an excellent light fastness
and maximum process reliability. Due to the low electrolyte con-
tent the ternary is also suitable for printing carpets with digital
spray printing processes; fast fixation is also guaranteed in a
saturated steam medium. The light fastness meets the stringent
requirements of the carpet industry. The ternary has an excellent
combinability and does not show any evidence of shifts in shade
after exposure to light.
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2.2. BEMACID N dyes
BEMACID N dyes are acid dyes of medium molecular size with
one sulpho group. Elements within this group can be ideally com-
bined. Their migrating power and coverage of material-induced
affinity differences are less positive than those of the BEMACID E
dyes. However, these properties can be considerably improved
with fibre and dye-substantive dyeing auxiliaries. The BEMACID
N dyes have a high wet fastness level as well as high light fast-
ness properties.
Their fields of application are medium to deep shades on sports-
wear and outerwear garments, underwear and hosiery as well as
carpet yarns and WO/PA blends.
2.2.2 BEMACID N -TF ternary
BEMACID Yellow N -TF, BEMACID Red N -TF and BEMACID Blue
N -TF are the ternary elements of technically optimally coordinat-
ed, neutrally exhausting acid dyes for reliable dyeing of polya-
mide and wool with tone-in-tone build-up and good wet fastness
properties.
2.3. BEMACID F dyes
BEMACID F dyes are large-molecular acid dyes. In most cases
they require two sulpho groups for adequate solubility in water.
This means that there are rather strong electrostatic interactions
between the dyes and between the dye and the substrate, and
therefore more problems when they are combined. For this rea-
son, three-colour combinations are not recommended. The mi-
grating power and coverage of material-induced affinity differ-
ences of these dyes are rather moderate. The BEMACID F dyes
go on to the fibre more slowly and therefore require more time or
higher temperatures than monosulphonated acid dyes. Generally
they react very strongly to dye-substantive auxiliaries; For this
reason, these dyeing auxiliaries must not be applied in excess.
For level dyeing results, special care must be given to controlled
bath exhaustion by means of pH or temperature control.
­BEMACID F dyes have an outstanding brilliance and a very high
degree of wet fastness. The light fastness varies within the group.
The BEMACID F dyes are preferred as straight colours or as
shading dyes in binary combinations for high wet fastness PA
articles (for the underwear, sportswear and swimwear sectors).
3. Classification of the BEMAPLEX dyes
Based on their migrating power, build-up (affinity) and combina-
bility, the BEMAPLEX dyes are classified in one of the following
groups:
3.1. BEMAPLEX N dyes
BEMAPLEX N dyes are non-sulphonated 1:2 metal complex
dyes. In addition to their excellent build-up on polyamide microfi-
bres, this group is also suitable for dyeing PA blends with a high
elastane content, if pronounced staining of the PUE fibre is re-
quired. Only a moderate washing fastness is achieved, especially
with dark shades. This dye is not as frequently used for wool, as
its main advantages - high build-up properties and low pH-de-
pendence - are of secondary importance.

3.2. BEMAPLEX M dyes
BEMAPLEX M dyes are monosulphonated 1:2 metal complex
dyes. The profile of this dye group includes the good levelling
power with different wool and polyamide origins which can be
optimised further by dye-substantive products (SARABID IPD,
SARABID IPM). Preferred application area therefore for the high-
est requirements in the carpet, swimwear, sports wear and out-
erwear sectors.
3.2.1. BEMAPLEX M-T ternary
BEMAPLEX Yellow M-T, BEMAPLEX Red M-T and BEMAPLEX
Navy M-T are the ternary elements of perfectly coordinated met-
al complex dyes with very high light and wet fastness properties
as well as an excellent, tone-in-tone build-up. These ternary ele-
ments can be combined with selected BEMACID F dyes. This is
necessary if a brilliant shade is not achieved with the elements of
the BEMAPLEX M-T ternary alone. Due to the low electrolyte
content the ternary is also suitable for printing carpets with digital
spray printing processes; fast fixation is also guaranteed in a
saturated steam medium.
3.3. BEMAPLEX D dyes
BEMAPLEX D dyes are disulphonated 1:2 metal complex dyes
with the highest wet fastness level. Due to their high efficiency
this range is especially suitable for deep shades. Three-colour
dyeing should be avoided on PA due to mutual blocking effects.
Generally this dye also has very high elastane reserves. The pos-
sible colour intensity of dark shades is limited on PA microfibres.
4. Dissolving the dyes
BEMACID and BEMAPLEX dyes are water-soluble. The only ex-
ception are the BEMAPLEX N dyes. These are either non-soluble
in water or only soluble to a limited degree due to the lack of
sulpho groups. Dispersion in hot water is sufficient in this case.
The remaining dyes are pasted with cold, soft water and then
dissolved in hot, soft water while stirring well. If necessary, the
solution can be boiled up with live steam. The required amount of
water in each case is stated on the shade card. The dye formula-
tion should be filtered through a sieve before it is added to the
dyebath.
B E M A C I D | B ema p l e x A P P L I c A T I O N
5. Selection of dyes and auxiliaries for
dyeing polyamide
As far as possible, only dyes of the same dye group should be
combined with one another. This ensures the best possible reli-
ability with respect to levelness and consistency of shade. If ele-
ments from different dye groups are combined, attention should
be paid to the different rates of strike and affinity of the dyes
used. The critical dye exhaustion range becomes longer, so that
the critical heating-up rate must be adapted to the element that
exhausts the most rapidly.
The BEMACID dyes are normally applied with levelling agents.
SARABID IPF, SARABID IPD and SARABID IPM are levelling
agents for dyeing polyamide fibres with acid and metal complex
dyes. SARABID IPF, SARABID IPD and SARABID IPM are added
before adding the dye. With SARABID IPF and SARABID IPD an
innovative kit range has been developed which fulfils the demand
for reliable, universal levelling agents for all polyamide dyeing
processes. Both products match one another optimally so that
very difficult PA dyeing assignments can be easily mastered. De-
pending on the type of polyamide fibres and the dye class, the
products are used either individually or combined. SARABID IPM
is a multifunctional combination product. MEROPAN EF 200
serves as an acid donor.
The use of a fibre-substantive product (SARABID IPM, Serabid
IPF) has produced excellent results for BEMACID E. The product
retards the bath exhaustion rate, thus increasing the probability
of levelness. SARABID IPM and Serabid IPF also improves the
migrating power and coverage of material-related barriness. The
optimum quantity depends on the colour intensity. Light shades
require a higher quantity of levelling agents. The deeper the
shade, the less levelling agent is required. Dye-substantive prod-
ucts have only a minor effect with the BEMACID E dyes which
have very good migration properties. With the BEMACID N and F
dyes and also the BEMAPLEX dyes, however, a dye-substantive
product such as SARABID IPD is more effective. This product
improves the combinability of the elements and reduces their af-
finity, thus improving the migration behaviour and the probability
of levelness. With deep shades, however, a dye-substantive aux-
iliary should not be applied to excess, as an overdose of the aux-
iliary leads to poor bath exhaustion, especially with the disulpho-
nated BEMACID F elements. A fibre-substantive auxiliary
(SARABID IPF, Serabid IPM) is always advisable with the BEMAC-
ID N and F and BEMAPLEX dyes when barry-dyeing PA is to be
dyed. In this case it is used in addition to SARABID IPD.
In principle, all BEMACID and BEMAPLEX dyes can be applied at
a starting pH of 5.5 - 6.5. In this case, the heating-up rate must
be controlled. A further possibility of controlling the dyeing proc-
ess is provided by acid donors. Organic ester-based products
such as MEROPAN EF 200 saponify in the heating-up and boiling
phase and thus increase the affinity of the polyamide fibres for the
anionic BEMACID and BEMAPLEX dyes by lowering the pH val-
ue. By a slow, steady increase in the acidity, an optimum absorp-
tion curve and bath exhaustion is ensured. Very critical articles or
shades can be dyed with the aid of the pH-sliding (BEMAcan)
method. This process is begun at a higher starting pH, which is
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then continuously lowered during the heating-up phase with
MEROPAN LS.
5.1. Textile auxiliaries for dyeing polyamide
SARABID IPD
SARABID IPD is a high-efficiency, low-foam, pseudo-cationic,
dye-substantive levelling agent which controls the exhaustion
ability of the dyes in the heating phase and promotes a regular
dye distribution in the migration phase. The combinability of the
dyes is improved by SARABID IPD, which increases reproducibil-
ity. Wet and light fastness properties are not influenced.
SARABID IPD is very suitable for dyeing differentiated polyamide
carpets for improved contrast, it is also suitable for lightening
and levelling faulty dye results. SARABID IPD is GOTS-listed.
SARABID IPF The polyamide fibre has a very strong influence on the dyeing
SARABID IPF is a fibre-substantive levelling agent for barry-dye-
ing polyamide and very effectively levels material-related barri-
ness. SARABID IPF slows and evens uptake of the dyes in the
heating phase and promotes levelness. Contrasting on differen-
tial dyeing polyamide carpet fibres with only an acid-dyeable ele-
ment can be prevented with the use of the product. SARABID
IPF is GOTS-listed.
SARABID IPM
SARABID IPM is a low-foam, multifunctional levelling agent for
dyeing polyamide with acid and 1:2 metal complex dyes. The
product has both affinity to the polyamide fibre and also the dyes.
As a result the dye build-up is controlled exactly during dyeing
and level dyeing is guaranteed, also on barry-dyeing articles.
SARABID IPM is GOTS-listed. Due to its specific product proper-
ties, SARABID IPM is especially suitable for contractors or for
frequently changing PA qualities.
MEROPAN EF 200
MEROPAN EF 200 is slowly and regularly saponified in the aque-
ous medium during the heating and boiling phase of the dyeing
process. The acid released as a result shifts the pH-value in an
increasing acidic direction, and the dyeing speed then gradually
increases. This pH regulation creates optimum conditions for
achieving level dyeing results. These are enhanced when a suit-
able levelling agent is used at the same time (SARABID IPD,
SARABID IPM, SARABID IPF). MEROPAN EF 200 does not affect
either the light nor wet fastness or the fastness to rubbing of the
dyed fabrics.
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MEROPAN LS
The great advantage of MEROPAN LS is the slow decomposition
and splitting off of the acid at high temperatures, so that
MEROPAN LS can also be added at temperatures of 98 °C –
106   °C (HT dosing). On the one hand this increases application
flexibility and on the other the dyeing time can be reduced con-
siderably with the pre-boiling method, as cooling is no longer
necessary before adding the dye. MEROPAN LS does not affect
either the light nor wet fastness or the fastness to rubbing of the
dyed fabrics. MEROPAN LS is an effective solution for dyeing
extremely barry-dyeing polyamide qualities. Due to the special
properties of MEROPAN LS, the product is mainly used in the
BEMAcan process. Use for conventional PA dyeing is also pos-
sible.
5.2. Influence of the polyamide fibre
process. The large kinetic differences between PA6 and PA66 are
well known. The previous thermal history of the fibre, the degree
of drawing and the fibre titre also have a decisive influence on the
absorption kinetics of acid dyes. It is impo­s­­si­ble to optimise a
dyeing programme without knowledge of the dyeing kinetics of
the polyamide. For this reason, determination of the kinetic be-
haviour of the PA fibre in each case is a prerequisite for the deter-
mination of an optimum dyeing method.
A simple dyeing test with a standard formulation in the laboratory
provides information on the kinetic fibre type:
Kinetic Classification of PA
1 2 3 4 5
90 – 98 °C, 10 min
80 – 90 °C, 10 min
70 – 80 °C, 10 min
60 – 70 °C, 10 min
50 – 60 °C, 10 min
40 – 50 °C, 10 min
30 – 40 °C, 10 min
Standard formulation: 1.5 % BEMACID BLUE N-TF, pH 6.0, LR 1:20
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5.3. Dyeing process on PA Process 3

Depending on the shade depth or the kinetic fibre type, the fol-
lowing standard dyeing programmes are recommended: 100
100 ˚C, 45 min
90

80
Shade Depth Kinetic Classification of Polyamide
70
1 ˚C/min
1–2 2–4 4–5 60

Temperature [°C]
50
Pale shades Process 1 Process 2 Process 3
40
Medium shades Process 2 Process 3 Process 4 30
AB

Deep shades Process 3 Process 4 Process 5 20

10

0
0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160
Time [min]

Process 1 Process 4
pH Control for pale shades on PA with rapid uptake

100 100
100 ˚C, 20 min 100 ˚C, 60 min
90 90

80 80

70 70
1.5 ˚C/min
60 60
Temperature [°C]

Temperature [°C]

1 ˚C/min
50 50

40 40
AB
30 30

20 20
ABC
10 10

0 0
0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160
Time [min] Time [min]

A A
0.3 – 2.0 % SARABID IPM and/or SARABID IPF / IPD 0.3 – 2.0 % SARABID IPM and/or SARABID IPF / IPD
Optimum starting pH: 8 – 9 0.25 – 1.0 ml/l MEROPAN EF 200 or pH value, see table

X %
B BEMACID / Bemaplex dye X %
B BEMACID / Bemaplex dye

C 0.5 – 1.0 ml/l MEROPAN EF 200

Process 2 Process 5

100 100
100 ˚C, 30 min 100 ˚C, 90 min
90 90
2 ˚C/min
80 80
2 ˚C/min
70 70

60 60
Temperature [°C]

Temperature [°C]

50 50
0.75 ˚C/min AB
40 40

30 30
AB
20 20

10 10

0 0
0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160
Time [min] Time [min]

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Recommended pH values for dyeing polyamide: BEMACID N and BEMACID F dyes are adsorbed fully on wool
fibres in dyebaths with medium to neutral acidity (pH 4.5 – 6.5).
Dye Group Optimum ph value The BEMACID N dyes have a medium equalisation and levelling
power. BEMACID F dyes have a low equalisation and migration
Medium Deep
Pale shades power. The interaction between equalisation and levelling proper-
shades shades
ties is responsible for fast wetness. Correspondingly the BEMAC-
BEMACID E 6.0 – 7.0 5.5 – 6.5 4.5 – 5.5 ID F dyes with their lower migration power have a considerably
BEMACID N 6.5 – 7.5 5.5 – 6.5 5.0 – 6.0 higher wet fastness than BEMACID N dyes.

BEMACID F 6.0 – 7.5 5.0 – 6.5 4.5 – 5.5

When using BEMACID N and F dyes, dye-substantive levelling
BEMAplex N – 5.0 – 6.5 5.0 – 6.5 agents are used for levelling reasons or for reducing variations in
staining of the tip and the base of the wool. The bond with the
BEMAplex M – 5.0 – 6.5 5.0 – 6.0
dye lowers its rate of absorption, and dye adsorption can there-
BEMAplex D – 5.0 – 6.0 4.5 – 5.5 fore be controlled together with the pH value and temperature.
Optimum process control ensures that wool of different qualities
The starting pH can also be set with acetic acid and ammonium is equally dyed. KERIOLAN A2N or SARABID IPD can be used as
sulphate. The following values are guide values which depend on a dye-substantive levelling agent. SARABID IPD has a stronger
the dyehouse water: levelling result, but also has a greater tendency to draining. The
quantities used depend on the depth of the shade.
ph value

4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 KERIOLAN A2N SARABID IPD

BEMACID N / F
Ammonium sulphate g/l 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 0.5 % – 2.0 % 0.5 % – 1.5 %
BEMAPLEX dye
Acetic acid 80 % ml/l 0.75 0.50 0.35 0.25 0.10 0

If excess quantities of cationic levelling agents are used, a drain-

5.4. Aftertreatment of polyamide
The wet fastness properties of PA goods dyed with BEMACID
and BEMAPLEX dyes can be improved by aftertreatment with
REWIN KMB or KNR. These products are applied in a new bath
at pH 3.5 – 4.5, 20 min, 70 – 80 °C.
6. Selection of dyes and auxiliaries for
dyeing wool
The origin, pretreatment of the wool or material make-up are re-
sponsible for fluctuations in the fibre properties. Depending on
the origins, damage to the fibre tips due to environmental influ-
ence (complete or partial removal of the cuticula) or finishing pro-
cedures (prewashing, bleaching, chlorination, drying) can cause
differences in the dyeing results.
ing effect and negative wet fastness and rubbing fastness can
result.
BEMAPLEX N dyes are used less frequently for wool. Dyeing is,
however, possible from a dyebath in the medium acidity to neu-
tral range, with full adsorption on the wool fibres. The care fast-
ness and processing fastness are slightly lower than those of the
monosulphonated BEMAPLEX M or disulphonated BEMAPLEX
D dyes.
The BEMAPLEX M dyes are used in the moderate to weakly
acidic medium range (pH 4.5 – 6.5). The levelling and migration
power on wool is slightly better with a dye-substantive auxiliary
than with the disulphonated BEMAPLEX D dyes. In addition to
the positive combinability of the M-T three-colour combination,
these dyes have an outstanding fast­ness standard. The BEMA-
PLEX M dyes can be shaded with BEMACID F dyes.
Of all the acid dyes the BEMPLEX D dyes have the lowest level-
ling and migration power, but the highest fastness level.

The dyes of the BEMACID and BEMAPLEX ranges have different
pH value dependencies, migration and levelling properties and
wear fastness. For this reason the same applies for combined
dyeing on wool as for PA, and only dyes of the same group
should be used for one formulation if possible. This ensures the
best possible reliability with respect to levelness and reproducibil-
ity.
BEMACID E dyes have excellent migration and levelling proper-
ties and are used whenever there are problems with material dif-
ferences. Wet fastness of dyeing is only ensured to a certain ex-
tent, but the light fastness is good to very good. BEMACID E
dyes can be used in a weakly acidic medium with pH 5.5 – 6.5,
and also in a highly acidic medium at a pH value of 2.5 – 3.0.
When using the BEMAPLEX dyes, dye-substantive levelling
agents are used for levelling reasons or for reducing variations
in staining of the tip and the base of the wool. If excessive quan-
tities of the dye-substantive levelling agent is used, especially
SARABID IPD, the possibility of a draining effect is higher than
with the BEMACID N and F dyes.
When selecting dyes for dyeing wool it must be taken into ac-
count that there is a direct link between the wet fastness and the
equalising and migration power, i.e. the more positive the one
property, the less positive the other.

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All BEMACID and BEMAPLEX dyes can be applied at a starting
pH value of 5.5 - 6.5. In this case, the heating-up rate must be
controlled. To ensure full bath exhaustion, a subsequent increase
in acidity to pH 4.0 – 5.0 is recommended for deep shades, in-
cluding black. A further possibility of controlling the dyeing proc-
ess is provided by acid donors. MEROPAN EF 200 saponifies in
the heating-up and boiling phase and thus increases the affinity of
the wool fibres for the anionic BEMACID and BEMAPLEX dyes by
lowering the pH value. By a slow, steady increase in the acidity, an
optimum absorption curve and bath exhaustion is ensured.
The addition of 1.0 % – 2.0 % KERIOLAN NWL is recommended
for dyeing wool below boiling temperature.
The addition of a deaerating agent, preferably 0.3 – 1.0 % KOL-
LASOL LOK, is advantageous. This product is not fibre substan-
tive and has a positive long-term effect.
The starting pH can also be set with acetic acid and ammonium
sulphate. The following values are guide values which depend on
the dyehouse water:

6.1. Textile auxiliaries for dyeing wool ph value

4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0

KERIOLAN A2N
KERIOLAN A2N controls the uptake rate of anionic dyes on the Ammonium sulphate g/l 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0
wool for regular bath exhaustion. The degree of retention is low, so 1.50 0.75 0.50 0.35 0.25 0.10 0
Acetic acid 80 % ml/l
that the dyes are almost fully exhausted. KERIOLAN A2N forms
loose adducts with the dyes which split off slowly and regularly
when the dye bath is heated. The dyes can then be taken up
regularly by the fibres, while KERIOLAN A2N remains in the bath.
For this reason the so-called draining effect is prevented (also re-
ferred to as syrup formation). This effect occurs if the levelling
agent is not optimally coordinated with the dyes. The dye/auxiliary
adduct does not split off completely and is taken up by the wool.
During cooling these adducts are partly released, which results in
bleeding of the dye. The residues of these adducts on the wool are
then the reason for the more negative fastness properties of the
dyeing results. The fastness is not negatively affected by the use
of KERIOLAN A2N. In addition to the retarding levelling effect de-
scribed above, KERIOLAN A2N increases the migration capability
of the dyes in the fibre. Both auxiliary properties ensure an excel-
lent dye levelness. KERIOLAN A2N has a good dispersing capac-
ity and is low-foaming.

7. Dyeing process for wool

100 ˚C, 45 – 90 min
100

90
90 ˚C, 45 – 90 min
80

70 1 ˚C/min

60
Temperature [°C]

50
AB
40

30

20

10

0
0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160
Time [min]

A
0.3 – 1.5 % KERIOLAN A2N or SARABID IPD
0.5 – 3.0 ml/l MEROPAN EF 200 or pH value, see table

X %
B BEMACID / Bemaplex dye

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