DECODING

OBJECTS
OF
POWER

S H R I S T I S A H O O
THOSE WHO DON'T
BELIEVE IN MAGIC
WILL NEVER FIND IT.

Why do we touch wood to wish for good luck or bless

someone when they sneeze? Our lifestyle has several
instances where we instinctively act upon our impulses
based on superstitions. Before human civilisation
gradually morphed into a more logically sound and
scientific society, there was a strong belief in the
supernatural.

Hence, based on evolution, this behaviour has become

deeply rooted in our psyche. No matter how much
technological advancement has propelled the value of
logic over intuition, these ideas still hover around in the
subconscious part of our brains. What we perceive
continuously through our five senses is stored in this part
of the mind. It holds information as symbols, metaphors
and images but not in the form of hard facts. It is a two-
way process; everything we see and hear simultaneously
affects the beholder and our mind.

Therefore, adorning ourselves with external material

expressions of personal values, such as tattoos and
ornaments, also considerably influences our thoughts and
actions. In many traditional cultures, they were meant to
provide protection and spiritual powers. Instead, it is a
modern notion to consider jewellery a luxurious vehicle
for human vanity. Magical body adornments such as
amulets and talismans were part of most ancient
civilisations. They were also an integral part of alternative
healing practices. In the present day, these magical
objects haven’t lost their allure. Especially during
uncertain phases of life, they are in great demand. This
book will explore interesting facets of these mystical
objects, their history and what makes them truly powerful.
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

My appreciation to my professors, Mr Andrew Tucker and Ms Angela Buttolph, for their

extremely useful feedback and criticism, is beyond words. I am equally grateful for the amazing
contributions and support from my friends, classmates and study respondents. Furthermore, I
would like to thank Govind Maad Kamat, who proofread my book.
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Title Page

Introduction 02

History & Origin 07

Healing Properties 15

Principles Of Magic 20

Symbolism 36

Chakra Healing 53

Cultural Appropriation 70

Digital Era 73

Conclusion 76

Glossary
77

Credits 78

79
Bibliography
 Fig 1: Nepalese amulet featuring Lord Vishnu flying across the sky on his pet bird Garuda.
ca. 17th-19th Century A.D.
01
 INTRODUCTION

Amulets, talismans and fetishes are few of the most popular forms of meta-physical jewellery
serving different purposes. Their etymology has been derived based on their use and function.
All these three esoteric devices have slightly different connotations, but their use as mystical
armour is what connects them. These are usually made into a form of body adornment. They
need to be close to the physical body for their protective and healing properties to take effect.
At various points in history, amulets were an integral part of medicine in different cultures
across the globe. Necklaces made up of bird feathers, canine teeth bracelets or roots
wrapped in herb-infused threads were worn around the neck and other body parts, which acted
as the panacea for various diseases.

The primary function of these objects was to heal or protect a body, animal or home. Different
ancient cultures built their healing practices on this theory. While modern medicine can cure
specific physical ailments, when it comes to mental and spiritual well-being, there is still a long
way to go for contemporary society.

Their motifs are significant when they are made in the form of jewellery. They are instrumental
in sending a message to both the wearer and the beholder. They are a part of the unspoken
language of the subconscious mind. Some of them hold great value as historical artefacts and
some have solid sentimental value as hand-me-downs in the family. People wear jewellery to
enhance one's beauty; this can also have a deep meaning, while the user may not interpret it
with such depth. Metaphysical jewellery carries particular intentions, inspirations and
philosophies, whether they are crystals or religious imagery. They can also be a family
heirloom, imbued by the ancestors' energies.

Fig 2: Turkish polished metal mirrors with Addorsed Sphinxes and Scorpio tail symbolism were
used as talismans.
ca. 12th-13th century A.D.
02
 Talisman comes from the Greek word ‘Teleo’, which means ‘to
consecrate’ or magically charge an object. It is primarily used in a ritual.

Fig 3: Dogon Sculpture from Mali

These wooden sculptures were believed to have been created for shrines; the male figure
raised his hands to heaven.
ca. 14th- 17th Century A.D.
03
Amulet originated from the Latin word ‘amuletum’, i.e., a natural or
man-made device that protects a person from trouble magically.

Fig 4: Wedjat Eye Amulet

The Egyptian amulet for healing which is associated with the god Horus.
ca. 1070-664 B.C.
04
 The origin of the fetish has its connection to African roots. Unlike an
amulet, it is believed to contain a spirit.

Fig 5: Funerary fetish from Africa

It is composed of a miniature animal model, which is wrapped around with linen fabric and
placed in a jar. It was used in funeral rituals to guard that sacred area.
ca. 1919-1885 B.C.
05
Fig 6: The crucifix, a reminder of Jesus's victory over the devil, remains a popular metaphysical
motif and powerful talisman.
06
 HISTORY & ORIGIN

Amulets, talismans and fetishes work on the principles of magic. Famous anthropologist Sir
James George Fraser claimed that magic was a precursor to organised religion. New-age
spirituality author and Afro-Caribbean expert Migene Gonzalez Wippler described ‘magic’ as an
act of will that intends to control its surroundings. In other words, it is a secret power to make
impossible things happen or manifest your desire.

The concept of magic is challenged today due to the advancement of science based on
complex logic. But these contradictory subjects share a common need, i.e. to make sense of
and control your surroundings. They are based on the view of a pre-established order in the
universe. Through these concepts, one could make sense of their world and control it to a
certain extent.

The first symbols ever created were in the form of images to communicate with spirits and
heavenly realms. Cave paintings were believed to be made by shamans who could connect to
them and higher realms were considered magicians or shamans dancing around a bonfire.
(consider rephrasing the line). There is evidence of the use of objects of supernatural power to
protect against evil spirits, which also aided healing and defended the vulnerable.

Fig 7: San rock art which features South African cave painting at Cederberg. It is believed to be
from 73000 years ago.
07
Ancient human civilisations believed in the inseparable bond of body and spirit. Some cultures
believed that one universal soul permeated the whole world, both living and non-living beings,
which is called ‘animism’. So the earliest ideas of spirituality originated based on the belief of
the existence of supernatural realms where spirits of dead ancestors or God lived. Many
ancient pieces of jewellery were worn for metaphysical reasons. They used them in burials and
placed them on dead bodies as they had faith in life after death. These magical pieces were
created mostly from natural elements.

Certain religious sects combined their belief in animism with nature worship. It eventually
became part of traditions. Gradually, over time, more intellectually advanced human
civilisations over time came into the picture and organised religions took over. With time
metaphysical jewellery was segregated depending on their use into lockets, amulets, talismans
and charms. They became more sophisticated with human forms, hymns and carefully carved
precious stones inscribed on metals becoming more popular.

Fig 8: Pre-Columbian era musical instrument. Such musical effigies were used to play music
that connected shamans to spiritual realms.
ca. 1300-1500 A.D.
08
 Fig 9: Ptolemaic ceremonial situla showcasing the tree goddess Nut (a form of animism or
belief in nature spirits).
ca. 332- 30 B.C.
09
Fig 10: According to Norse philosophy, the wheel symbol represents continuity. It was often
worn as an amulet and carved on the tombstone to symbolise life after death.
10
 Every piece I make is set with the intention that the wearer would
receive all the knowledge and benefits the article offers.

- Jhalen Fears, Jewellery Designer

& Owner of Eta Piscium brand.

In the modern day, with scientific advancement and logical thinking, the concept of magic
faded. But the faith in spirituality, religion and the presence of higher power has not.
Believers still have a firm conviction about pre-established laws in the universe. Hence
amulets, talismans and fetishes are not part of a lifestyle or fashion trend, as people who
practise alternate healing always seek these devices.

They evolved with time to accommodate human beings' changing spiritual and religious beliefs.
From time to time, people revisit their past culture and revive their spiritual beliefs by wearing
these metaphysical adornments.

This soul-seeking is exaggerated during uncertain times like the current post-pandemic era.
Many new jewellery designers have reimagined them and created trendy pieces for their
audience.
11
Fig 11: Yuan Dynasty Buddhist Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara sculpture, with a hollow interior
which contained consecrated material, used as a talisman.
ca. 1282 A.D.
12
 I think people have always been interested in metaphysical jewellery.
It's always interesting when people bring up how popular it's been,
especially because it's something even used in ancient civilisations,
such as wearing elaborate crowns and other decorations upon the
body of the royal court as well as aristocrats. Not only was it a sign of
status, but also it was used in an esoteric fashion.

People, now we are coming back into this even more these days, more
so than usual, since the explosion of platforms like Instagram, Pinterest
and even TikTok. They all play a part in people dabbling into things like
jewellery making and more.

-
Jillisa Murray
Seduckshun Esoterics
13
Fig 12: Hamsa with the evil eye and elephant evil-eye wall hanging. The evil eye has long been a
common motif in amulets and it is currently seeing a revival among celebrities and in the
fashion industry.
14
 HEALING PROPERTIES

There are different fetishes, talismans or amulets for each stage of human life- birth, fertility,
love, marriage, war, disease or evil eye. For each purpose, its design differs. They often
double up as jewellery, serving various purposes of providing adornment, protection to the
wearer and healing.

Henry Wellcome, the founder of the Wellcome Trust Gallery, collected multiple charms from
all over the world, which were used for healing in different societies. Some of the most
popular ones included fish teeth necklaces (Hawaii), feather headgears (Native American),
beads from bones (Africa) and cowrie shells (Indian subcontinent). He pondered over
including jewellery as medicinal aid at one point.

In their latest exhibition, 'living and dying' at the British Museum, the Wellcome Trust Gallery
showcased a collection of amulets, talismans and fetishes which emphasised the balance of
mind, body and spirit. An ideal state of being was considered a perfect balance of these three
aspects of human beings. The notion that disease is caused by spiritual disturbance has
existed in multiple ancient cultures around the globe. Using esoteric devices has always been
one of the most popular ways to exorcise fear.

Visuals and artefacts that depicted how people in various parts of the world coped with the
illness and their harsh realities were showcased. It was not just about healing on a physical
level but also on the metaphysical. The most fascinating presentation was Hawaiian heirloom
pieces made up of fish hook or shark teeth, inspired by their nautical lifestyle and esoteric
beliefs.

Fig 13: Fish teeth and nautical amulets. The exoskeleton of organisms such as teeth, nails and
claws were symbols of strength and were worn to avert negative energies.
15
Fig 14: Etruscan shark tooth pendant embedded in gold filigree.
ca. 4th Century B.C.
16
 Wearing custom-made talismanic jewellery inspires the client's
creativity. They can select pieces that suit their mood and
intention.

- Zenaida, spiritual jewellery designer and owner of Sparkle Like

Zen brand.

Both amulets and jewellery are material expressions of one's values or value addition to one's
personality. It is not just about monetary terms, as we see in the case of jewellery, for flaunting
one's wealth. It has more to do with the virtues and faith inculcated in one through childhood,
upbringing, cultural nuances, surroundings, spirituality, beliefs, religion and experiences. The
making process of metaphysical jewellery in its highest form is a kind of universal art that
breaks the boundaries between the material and the metaphysical through a magnificent blend
of skills of intricate material handling, understanding of anatomy, aesthetics, design and
philosophy. The making process of metaphysical jewellery in its highest form is a kind of
universal art that breaks the boundaries between the material and the metaphysical through a
magnificent blend of skills of intricate material handling, understanding of anatomy, aesthetics,
design and philosophy.

What differentiates an amulet, talisman or charm from a simple body adornment or a jewel is
the fact that the former is created with intention and charged with some affirmations,
incantations or mantras. Similarly, when crystals are curated as amulets, they must be charged
with different elements depending on the user's need. They all have their intrinsic healing
properties, but they acquire more power when one sets them with intention.

Reiki jewellery is based on the Japanese energy healing process, which is based on
metaphysical concepts and managing the universal life force or Chi. It works primarily on
training the subconscious mind and focusing on manifesting positive outcomes in one's life.
There is a strong faith in setting intentions while making them "as one eventually becomes what
one focuses on or thinks about a lot." For example, if one starts believing she is becoming
healthy, she will eventually be so.
17
Fig 15: Reiki crystals are placed in the form of a mandala and charged to attain a particular
objective healing or manifestation.
18
 PRINCIPLES OF MAGIC

Now we look at the various principles which were used in the use of these mystical objects.
Their design and service are based on three primary magical laws.

James George Frazer, in The Golden Bough book, has broadly classified magic into two
categories-

Imitative magic- like attracts like (based on the law of similarity). This is also known
as sympathetic magic or correspondence.

Contagious magic- part affects part (based on two objects retaining some essence of
contact after detachment (based on the law of contagion). It establishes itself on the
connection of the wearer and the objects he uses, which is widely used in the case of
fetishes.

The other popular type of magic is the apotropaic magic (protection against the evil eye).
This is the third category which is less well known, but is used extensively in making
amulets and talismans.

Contagious magic is the study of association of ideas based on contiguity. It was assumed that
two objects retained some contact essence after being detached. The law of contagion bases
itself on the connection between the wearer and the objects he uses.

In modern physics, it is known as quantum entanglement. The energy of a living being stays
in objects a person had once used. Non-decaying body remnants such as teeth, nails and
hair of animals or human beings are often used as fetishes for rituals.

If we look into this matter from a biological perspective, these are exo-skeletons of a living
being used in times of distress or attack (fight or flight mode). They are suggestive of
personal power and protection.

The popularity of locks of hair as an amulet was immense. It was believed to be an extension of
the mind. It is placed next to the brain (again law of contagion). Hence they represent the
thoughts of a person. Haircuts share a close relationship with thought processes, especially in
the case of women. It is often seen in movies that women cut their long tresses while
undergoing some change or intense emotional upheaval.
20
Sentimental pieces hold much power to motivate people by transferring life values through
generations. In the case of weddings or childbirths, family heirlooms are generally passed on to
present goodwill to a couple starting their new life or an expecting mother. Hence, amulets or
talismans are typically passed on to generations. The base philosophy of some yogic
practitioners like Sage Patanjali is that good memory helps us elevate our consciousness.

Objects, especially those used by successful people, are treasured as they are believed to
bring good luck or fortune and have positive impressions. Especially those used by people who
lead successful lives are treasured as they will bring good luck or fortune and have positive
impressions. We also see this attachment towards celebrity memorabilia and sentimental
pieces used as lucky charms. They are auctioned at exorbitant prices because of the immense
value they possess in the eyes of the public. E.g., the famous custom-made jade amulet worn
by Bruce Lee in the movie Enter The Dragon.

This is a bead that I wear on a chain. It is

made from the flowers from my Nan’s
funeral and took a long time to be made
because the flowers had to be fully dried out. It
means a lot to me because it’s the final gift
from my Nan and the colours were her
favourite.

-
Hannah Emery, Reiki practitioner
21
 Any prosperity or excellence is often met with some jealousy. It is believed that too much
of a good thing or perfection creates discomfort. Being stared at is a feeling that
intuitively disturbs people. Envy is also a powerful emotion that, when uncontrolled, might
lead someone to attack or destroy the person or the possession, causing them to feel
inadequate.

Hence, a strong belief in the concept of the evil eye or “Nazar” has existed in multiple cultures.
People often feel that their beauty, wealth or success triggers others’ hostile feelings towards
them or their object of desire. If any horrible event due to unforeseen circumstances follows
any period of fortune, it is generally believed to be the negative effect of the malevolent gaze.

In modern physics, the intromission theory (light beams enter into eyes) is universally
accepted, but another concept exists. The human ocular extra-mission states that
electromagnetic rays are also emitted through the eyes. In recent research, it was seen that
brain waves in a minuscule range are emitted through the eyes. This extra-mission theory of
visual perception was discussed by ancient philosophers, namely Plutarch, Plato, Euclid and
Ptolemy. Examples of eye beams were used poetically by authors like Shakespeare. This
“gaze” is also a part of many mythological stories worldwide. In Egyptian folklore, the serpent
deity Apep used a magical gaze to attack Ra, the Sun king.

This is where the apotropaic magic comes in: the spell to revert the negative energies thrust
by a jettatore (a person who casts an evil eye). Hence, people use symbols that are believed
to ward off negative energies.

When amulets, talismans or masks are used to evade the malevolent gaze, they usually have a
peculiar design as they are meant to distract attention. This deflection is done either by
adding intentional imperfection, such as adding a beauty mark to the face or making an
apotropaic mark. Sometimes distracting objects that shimmer, move, release a scent or
create sounds such as mirrors, tassels, dried herbs and bells are used. In Babylonian culture,
knots made with uttering spells were used for apotropaism.

In the design of an amulet or talisman used for apotropaic purposes, odd numbers were
generally preferred over even numbers. It was based on the theory that balance is
unsettling to the onlooker. On similar lines, asymmetry was used to deflect the possible
negativity created due to envy.
22
Fig 16: American talisman for kids containing bells, whistles and rattle to avert the evil eye.
ca. 1755-68 A.D.
23
 The fear of being affected by this evil gaze is more prominent in people in a vulnerable stage of
life. A transition phase, for instance, marriage, childbirth and even liminal space like entrances
or doorways were always protected through apotropaic objects. As change is always a dicey or
weak state, negative spirits are most likely to attack when one is vulnerable.

In many cultures, house owners hang a scary head (or gorgon masks) outside their homes,
especially at entrances. Amulets were hung on the threshold of houses in Russia, sacred
spaces where spirits were believed to be residing. In the Indian subcontinent, the face of
Kirtimukha, the monster head, adorned the gates of temples.

Russians made faceless ragdolls for their babies to protect them from evil spirits. Talismans
were specifically made especially for expecting mothers, newborns, people suffering from
illness, soldiers going to fight or people in powerful positions as it was believed that these
individuals not only needed physical protection but also required to be shielded from psychic
attacks.

When Bubonic Plague or the Black Death wreaked havoc and caused devastating loss of
human life, it triggered a need for some hope in the wake of the plague. There was a rise in the
use of magical objects against this supposed fury of nature. Several apotropaic devices, such
as the bawdy badges, amuletic rings and tin alloy tokens were used for protection from
unforeseen forces.

The most popular symbols used in the bawdy badges were cockerel, erotic imagery, animals
and other mythical creatures. The semiotic analysis of these devices gives us an interesting
perspective on the socio-religious beliefs of the mediaeval period.

They all correlate to universal themes of fertility, procreation and regeneration. They also
distract the viewer with unusual imagery. Similarly, noise-producing amulets like cockleshells
and bells with inscriptions helped create commotion hence deflecting attention or the gaze.
Apart from these, aromatics like herbs, flowers and perfumes were also used as metal
pomanders to deflect the evil eye.
24
Fig 17: Kirtimukha (demon mask) is used on doors and gates of South Indian architecture.
Liminal spaces, for example, entrances, are protected using apotropaic devices.
25
 Fig 18: Egyptian amulet made up of quartz and golden ankh. A way to hold life near to you and
stave off negativity was to have the eye of Horus or the ankh symbol.
ca. 1981- 1640 B.C.
26
Fig 19: French pendant, which was used as amulet, featuring lamb and a quote from the Bible. It
was used by pregnant women for protection.
ca. 14th century A.D.
27
 The basis of many ancient civilisations' use of correspondence or sympathetic magic relies on
the saying that everything is connected in the cosmos. They believed that things look similar
and have a similar effect in the universe. Their visualisation was later explained by Jungian's
theory of archetypes and the collective unconscious.

For example, mirrors or glass were associated with water because they had similar reflective
qualities. Life-sustaining water in any form (pure or mixed) has positive connotations
classically. So the use of moisture or spit was also used every day during the mediaeval period
to throw off curses. Showers are considered to bring in good fortune.

Both colour and crystal therapy are based on this concept of correspondence, where objects
that looked similar were used for alternative healing. The Sun is often represented as the king as
the centre of the solar system, holding everything together. It is also a self-generating source of
light and energy. Hence most powerful organisms are associated with him, such as the Lion or
the Falcon. Ruby and carnelian stones are associated with him as they glow red like him and
provide astrological benefits to the wearer.

Similarly, the moon is considered the queen as the female equivalent of the Sun. Women's
menstrual cycles were associated with lunar cycles, taking 28 days. The moonbeam supported
the nighttime. It was soothing and comforting, like a mother. Pearls are astrologically
associated with the moon and are worn to calm the restless mind. They were obtained from the
sea, whose tides were controlled by lunar gravity. The smallest planet in terms of size, Mercury
was personified as a child and astrologically connected to youth. Green is the colour of Earth's
most fertile period, so emerald is a related gemstone.

Several Venus figurines were unearthed in Europe and Eurasia, which became a precursor to the
fertility goddess amulets. The well-endowed and curvy body worked on the law of sympathetic
magic. Sometimes stone carvings, motifs or clay figures of pregnant animals are also popular
talismans.
28
Pearls are reminiscent of the moon and when we look at the moon or a
pearl, we are reminded of the beauty created by God and therefore
become more appreciative. The person I made the tasbih for is very
fond of the moon's beauty and has lunar qualities. I aim to connect the
meditative instincts of an individual in this way. I wanted to have a space
for authentic expressions and reflections of the beauty I see in the soul
of others and to reflect on how each individual has a different essence
and how each core relates to a single source.
-
Canada-based jewellery designer Viridiana states her experience in
creating a custom talisman for her client.

Fig 20: In ancient cultures, pearls have been primarily associated with the moon and worn to
calm the restless mind. They were also obtained from the sea, whose tides were controlled by
lunar gravity. Hence, the subconscious connection is established.
29
 Fig 21: Cowrie shell necklace
Amulets that young women used to promote fertility and facilitate childbirth had shapes
resembling the female genitalia, such as cowrie shells or the inverted triangle are used to
design charms for female fertility.
30
Fig 22: Coptic amulet featuring the hematite stone, fertility goddess and a prayer. Hematite
was also known as bloodstone as it contained red pigment due to iron oxide. Its similarity to
human blood was the reason it was believed as sympathetic magic to cure blood and
menstrual disorders.
ca. 6th -7th Century A.D.
31
 The popular concept based on sympathetic magic is chromotherapy or colour therapy, which
states that different hues can influence our mind, body and well-being. The correspondence
or analogous magic is also attributed to coloured stones or gems in amulets in certain
cultures. For example, amethyst was associated with preventing drunkenness owing to its
colour resembling wine. Ancient Greeks used vessels made up of amethyst to prevent
inebriation. Similarly, red beads were used for blood-related healing disorders owing to their
correlation to blood, fertility, birth and death.

Apart from the rosy hues, the propitious green is another favourite for beads. This hue is used
rampantly in the healing or medical sector for its soothing effect on the eye. It is the
complementary colour of red (blood). Red stones are generally recommended for blood-
related disorders. In Middle Eastern countries, green beads were symbolic of
agricultural fertility and health.

Certain dyes themselves are used in jewellery making. In Indian culture, turmeric is used
extensively in rituals for apotropaic purposes and healing. This spice contains curcumin which
has multiple health benefits, for instance, protection from deadly diseases like cancer,
lowering cholesterol and as an antimicrobial agent. Hence, threads coloured with turmeric
are worn as armlets or in the form of neckpieces as amulets. The turmeric threads were a
significant part of Indian weddings, strung with black beads (to take off Nazar or the evil eye).
This piece was called the mangal sutra and was gifted to the bride by the groom during the
marriage.

Fig 23: Ornamental amulet case from Uzbekistan studded with red coral beads, turquoise
beads and dangling metal pieces.
ca. 19th Century A.D.
32
Fig 24: Certain fragrant substances, for example, sandalwood, were used to coat in a sacred
thread or the form of a diffuser necklace and worn around the neck. Generally, they were
heavily scented. They aid in healing through aromatherapy and improve the mood of the
wearer.
33
 Fig 25: Amulet boxes were used in the form of an armlet called 'bazuband' in India. The hollow
boxes contained turmeric threads consecrated with mantras or holy hymns.
ca. 18th century- 19th century A.D.
34
Fig 26: The Rudraksha bead, which holds special spiritual and religious significance in Hindu
devotees, is made up of the dried blueberry of a tropical tree. It is seen to soothe the nerves of
the wearer and helps him concentrate well in meditation.
35
 SYMBOLISM

Making an amulet, talisman or fetish is a complex process and its interpretation provides deep
insights into the intricacies of the human value system. It brings together culture, psyche and
religion, which form the foundation of anyone's life experiences.

Each piece of amulet tells a personal story, which is why studying ancient amulets' symbols give
us great insights into societal beliefs centred around religion, spirituality and culture. Studying
their own spiritual, religious, cultural and philosophical codes through these artefacts helps us
understand and trace the common thread passing through various cultures and traditions.

Mostly metaphysical jewellery designers and experts use combinations and permutations of
different designs elements to create. The law of sympathetic or imitative magic was more
commonly used than any other form. It will be discussed in further paragraphs where we will
discuss various design elements that go into their construction.

We start with the most apparent yet crucial feature of any amulet, talisman or fetish: the visual
aspect. As we had discussed earlier, the storytelling aspect of each piece is essential to touch
upon its impact on our subconscious mind. The imagery used in making amulets or talismans
are codes for what we call the collective consciousness in the modern day.

Philosophical and spiritual lessons are represented through metaphors in the design through
motifs. Especially when it comes to symbols that are used in healing, they are created to
stimulate positive thinking.The lotus flower is a popular religious motif of Buddhists. It blooms
in the mud-ridden filthy water yet retains its beauty and purity. Hence it reminds the viewer of
noble virtue. Similarly, swans are often the emblems of romantic love as it is studied in their
behaviour that they practise monogamy and are highly attached to their partners. This graceful
bird is used by the famous jewellery brand Swarovski to promote its creator's eternal love for
crystals.

In case of protection against the evil eye, generally distracting or fear-inducing figures, signs or
marks are used. For religious purposes, symbolic images are used to represent complex
folktales or mythological stories.

It can be deduced that every region has developed its own set of spiritual beliefs, which
became part of its ancient heritage. Each culture has its distinct form of jewellery design which
denotes their faith, belief system and wealth. Similarly, amulets, talismans and charms are
found in every part of the world. But they hold a special place in the esoteric practices, as apart
from body adornment, they provide protection, healing and spiritual benefits to the owner.

In the following chapters, I will discuss a few popular esoteric concepts, their symbols and how
they are used in the making of amulets, talismans and fetishes worldwide.
36
Fig 27: Pendant amulet with symbolism showcasing a priestess who is meditating. Meditation is
one of the most effective ways to improve your general health and mental well-being.
37
 Fig 28: Spanish pendant, inspired from marine creatures, embellished with emeralds and pearls.
Fish was considered as a talismanic symbol for sea voyagers.
ca. 16th-17th century A.D.
38
The hieroglyphic signs of the Pectoral of Princess Sithathoryunet give us a great understanding
of ancient Egyptian spiritual beliefs. Firstly, we get a hint about its period. It was dated back to
the reign of King Senwosret II.

The Nile river was depicted by using blue turquoise and the sand through gold. The zig-zag
patterns at the bottom show the water element. The two falcons on each side represent God
Horus, whose eyes metaphorically symbolise the Sun (power) and the moon (healing). The
Egyptian Sun god was associated with royalty and hence, the patron of all regal descendants.

A royal throne, surrounded by a circle representing the universe and ankhs (depicting life) lay
beside it. Two cobras (protectors) flank the Sun (king), which is pushed by a scarab
(regeneration). In the center lies Heh, who is the god of eternity. Hence the entire piece is like
art which involves a complex storytelling process.

This necklace was mostly allowed to be adorned by people who belonged to the royal lineage.
The person who wore it also acquired mystical powers as granted by the god of Horus. Hence,
it worked as an amulet.

Fig 29: The Pectoral necklace of Princess Sithathoryunet.

ca. 1887-1878 B.C.
39
 Certain materials that occurred naturally were considered auspicious and used in making
amulets. Such as, wood was supposed to be the hallmark of prosperity in multiple cultures.
In Feng Shui, wood is associated with growth and progress.

Similarly, metals like gold and silver were celebrated for their lustre and non-oxidative nature
and associated with multiple health benefits. Gold provides a soothing effect to the wearer,
regulates body temperature and boosts immunity. Silver aids in healing nervous energy,
maintain internal heat regulation and improve circulation in its wearers.

Fig 30: Golden Egyptian Cartouche

The amulet necklace is an oblong enclosure with a hieroglyphic text indicating a royal name.
40
Fig 31: Buddhist amulet made up of depicting a meditating monk.
41
 The position of the Sun, the Moon, the planets and the stars were used for time-keeping.
Eventually the study of astronomy led to astrology based on observations. Certain placements
of the position of celestial bodies, correlated to real life events. Astrology developed from the
concept of timekeeping. After observing repetitive patterns and the apparent position of
these heavenly bodies, astrology came into existence. Vedic astrologers made mandalas
(geometric diagrams to represent the presence of heavenly bodies in the charts).
Anthropomorphism which evolved from animism (the belief that spirit existed in both living and
non-living beings), made these heavenly bodies into deities who were worshipped throughout
history. It represented the evolution from worshipping the natural forces to complex organised
religion.

Parallel themes can be seen in mythical gods and goddesses of Egyptian, Mesopotamian,
Greek, Roman and Indian mythology. Astrological symbols, deities and their stories are
extensively used in the making of amulets and jewellery. Zodiac signs are now prevalent,
especially in the current post-pandemic spirituality era.

It has also been discovered that the distance of Earth from the Sun is about 108 times the
diameter of the Sun. The distance between the Earth and the Moon is also about 108 times the
diameter of the Moon. This delicate balance between these luminaries and the Earth is
believed to be why 'life' came into existence. Most of the Indian mantras were chanted or
repeated 108 times. Hence luminaries of the night sky were considered parents. The Moon
(mother) is the personification of the divine feminine. This is used extensively in sacred
geometry as the ratio of these two sky luminaries is relevant in sustaining life on Earth.

Hence, the Sun is associated with the divine masculine (father). This duality is depicted in the
black-and-white symbol of yin-yang. To heighten your intuition, the feminine side needs to be
developed.

In Hinduism, it is known as Purusha (cosmic man) and Prakriti (nature). Similarly, the Earth is
regarded as feminine and as a mother goddess who nurtures all forms of living beings.
Goddesses are often painted with long hair. Growing long hair and long nails are believed to
heighten one's absorption of cosmic rays (we discussed in the magic chapter, how locks of
hair and nail were used as amulets for protection).

Based on the concept of the divine masculine and divine feminine, the body and brain are
metaphorically into two halves. The left brain is associated with the logical side and controls
the body's right side. The right brain is associated with the emotional side and regulates the
body's left side. Men are believed to be in control of their left brain. Hence, this site is
considered masculine. Women are more into crystals, astrology and alternative healing
practices, as the intuitive left side of our body and brain is innately feminine and receptive.
Parallel themes were seen in European cultural beliefs and all over the world. These symbols
are still universally used in jewellery design.
42
Fig 32: Mesopotamian necklace & pendant featuring Sun god Shamash, crescent representing
the moon god, lightning depicting the storm god Adad and Venus goddess Ishtar associated
with rose.
ca. 18th-17th Century B.C.
43
 The concept of five elements is used widely in mysticism. It was believed that the classical five
elements fire, water, earth, air and ether (space element) form the raw materials for the
existence of life on earth. They all interact with each other creating balance. The Indian Vastu
Shastra follows this concept where each element is known as tatva- Agni (fire), Jala (water),
Prithvi (earth), Vayu (air) and Akasha (space element). In alchemy, the ether element is known
as void. Different directions, strengths and personality types are associated with these
elements. These are used with several codes or symbols to mark amulets.

In Chinese Geomancy or Feng Shui, there is no concept of air. Instead, it is replaced with wood
and the fifth element is metal instead of space. It also advocates the placement of certain
objects in a particular direction for the desired outcome. The most popularly used Feng Shui
amulet is the group of coins. They are usually tied on the tree or the entrance of a shop or
home to invite positive energy or Qi. Each coin has been marked with eight symbols of good
fortune: chime, mirror book, pearl, leaf, horn and tablet. Different currencies were created in
different eras depending on the reign of Chinese rulers, such as the Song Dynasty, the Han
dynasty, the Tang Dynasty and the Kang Xi dynasty.

Fig 33: The Feng Shui cat or the wooden Maneki-Neko

This waving or beckoning cat is a famous Japanese figurine believed to bring good luck to the
owner. It is originally from Japan, but it is commonly misunderstood as the Chinese cat. It is
placed in the southeast corner, the wealth corner of the house, as per Feng Shui rules.
44
Fig 34: Ten Feng Shui coins grouped and tied onto a tree to increase the positive energy or Qi.
45
 In Hinduism, the Banyan tree is considered sacred because its reflection in water
represents the spiritual form of the nature of the universe. The human body was compared
to the tree whose roots are where the head is and the feet are where branches lie or where
the shoot is. This is why yogic practices recommend a headstand pose to connect to
universal energies.

Parallel themes can be seen in the Celtic Tree of Life symbolising the Druid belief in the
connection between heaven and Earth. The tree of life was central to the Celtic folklore
and they believed that their ancestors lived in it. They were considered portals to
spiritual realms, growth and rebirth. Hence there was a cyclic representation of the tree
in the form of Celtic knots, which represented ecological harmony between man and
nature.

Qabalah divination was based on the tree of life, which is depicted through 10 spheres and 22
paths showing the spiritual evolution of creation. It explains the concept of manifestation
through the complex thought process that human beings possess.
The Celts believe that trees were the ancestors of man and connected to other worlds.
They are often represented by a tree with branches reaching the sky and roots spreading into
the Earth.

Sacred fruits like apples held a special place in the esoteric realm, which can be observed in
cross-cultural studies. It was believed to hold the secret to the universe or the realisation,
which led to the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the garden of Eden. According to modern
healers who studied the shape of the perfect apple, which has a torus shape. This is the
shape of the Earth, its magnetic field and even the human body’s energetic body.

Coincidentally Newton, a humble apple, also persuaded Newton to discover gravity. In Feng
Shui, the cosmic apple symbolism is used for gifts to reduce interpersonal relations and
create peaceful surroundings. Hence this fruit, along with pomegranate, was widely used in
religious imagery and meta-physical jewellery design. Pomegranate has multiple health
benefits, including aphrodisiac properties and anti-aging potential. Perhaps, the ancient
healers were aware of this fact and regarded it as a symbol of fertility and immortality.
46
Fig 35: The Celtic Cross inspired by the Sacred tree. Several plants found in the Celtic region
were considered divine due to their medicinal properties and other benefits.
47
 Modern scientists also found that Venus shares an orbital resonance of 13:8 with Earth and
traces out a pentagram every eight years. This shape is also found in the centre of an
apple (cross-sectional view). It looks like the five-petal rose; this pattern is commonly
found in nature in the form of flowers and seeds. It reinstated the fact that everything we
see outside is also within us. Hence the apple reminded people that by going inwards, one
could find the key to one’s spirit or the higher principles of the universe. But divine
knowledge was forbidden to general people as spirituality emphasised that one has to go
beyond senses to discover one’s inner core and find the teachings.

Fig 36: (clockwise) Orbital resonance pattern of the Venus with the Earth resembles the five
petal rose. The pentagram design has been derived from it. This motif resembles the cross-
section pattern of the apple seed. Torus shape of the apple is the shape of the spiritual
energetic field of human beings.
48
Fig 37: This hexagram or six-pointed star is known as the Star of David. It is a famous symbol in
the Jewish tradition and represents God's protection. It is sometimes confused with the
pentagram which is a symbol used in Wicca, inspired from the pentagram of Venus.
49
 The Ancient seers and builders tried to decode the patterns they saw in the universe. The
Pyramids of Egypt and Stonehenge in England were created for esoteric reasons. Recent
studies showcase that sacred geometry was employed in making these structures and
aligned with constellations such as the Orion, which hold deep significance according to
their folklore. They believed that the study of geometry or maths should not be limited to
the external world only. Numerology was another integral aspect of divination. Each
number was associated with a particular planet and its energies. In sacred geometry, the
use of numbers was crucial.

There should also be introspection because everything is connected in the cosmos; there is an
inner microcosm miming the bigger outer macrocosm. Upon further study, they discovered an
energetic network or matrix. They are coagulations of energy and are in a state of vibration or
pulsation. This is connected to a living being's breath which keeps them alive and pulsating.
Hence in Hindu philosophy, it is believed the utterance of "om" led to the formation of the
universe. It is interesting to note that the cymatic pattern of "om" looks like an ellipse in a
typical shape in the universe. Cymatic patterns are created when specific vibrations are
transmitted to a medium.

Vibrations of different objects were studied and it led to the formation of the language of
Sanskrit. Mantras (sacred hymns) were created to evoke specific beats in the
surroundings. Yantra, a holy device, is used along with mantras and tantra (religious
procedures) to attain certain spiritual states and heal power centres of the body or the
seven chakras. By doing so, people heal their bodies at an energetic level by fixing them
through yoga. Sometimes herbs and crystals were used to amplify this process.

Fig 38: Shree Yantra bracelet made out of copper metal, worn on hand for protection and
prosperity.It is one of the most potent symbols based on sacred geometry used in Hindu
amulets.
50
Sacred geometry is a testimony that everything in the universe follows an order or is based on a
deliberate plan of supreme intelligence. Human beings then mimicked this design to create
works of art which were in tune with the universe. The golden ratio, or Phi, is sacred geometry's
most commonly used principle. Several galaxies, for instance, the Milky Way, have a spiral
shape which follows this algorithm. In other words, it is a universal law. This Fibonacci sequence
is considered an integral part of sacred geometry.

This sacred geometry was also incorporated into Egyptian jewellery design, for example, the
Atlantis ring. This piece worked beyond its body adornment purpose, providing protective
powers to the wearer. In those days, it was used mainly by royalty. It worked on the principle
of radiesthesia which determined the radiation emitted by a person and was constructed
accordingly to bring the wearer's energy into a perfect balance.

The concept of nature follows the golden ratio, which can be seen in spider webs, Japanese
pufferfish-making mandala art or crop circles in the sea bed. This ratio or Phi, is part of
sacred geometry which can be observed in several natural occurrences. Kaalchakra
Mandalas were developed by Hindu sages using sacred geometry to represent time and
other universal principles. Buddhism, which evolved from India, the same place as
Hinduism, draws heavy references. Buddhist monks often draw them on the sand and then
wipe them out to show the transience of the universe.

Fig 39: The water movement follows the golden ratio and sacred geometry. Similarly, Mandalas
were created in sync with nature's rhythmic pattern—a popular symbol for rings.
51
 While studying yantras in previous chapters, we learnt that amulets
or talismans, may not always be physical or tangible objects. They can
also be geometric designs charged with intention.

Fig 40: Digital amulet generated using design philosophy of yantras.

52
 CHAKRA HEALING

The most popular concept in modern-day spirituality is based on chakras and aura colours.
According to sympathetic magic, wearing amulets similar to a particular chakra can heal it.
Hence coloured crystals, gemstones, herbs or music that corresponds to these chakras are
used in metaphysical jewellery design. The different energy centres in our body are chakras,
each associated with a corresponding colour, frequency, cymatic pattern and mantra(sound).
Healing these chakras ensures a healthy mind, body and emotional health. If we decode the
symbol associated with the chakra or energy centre of the body, we will understand its deep
esoteric values and philosophy.

It is believed that Earth has electromagnetic power and special centres where energy is very
significant. They also correspond to the human body's seven chakras or power centres. Ancient
civilisations did thorough research on this concept. Several treatises have been found in this
regard. They discovered the power of ley lines and the healing properties of gems and semi-
stones unearthed from such areas. According to Indian philosophy, the human body shares a
fractal relationship with the universe. So healing can be both internal and external. What is
present in the macrocosm is mimicked within the microcosm, which in this case is the human
body.

Each chakra is represented through a circle motif with added features such as lotus petals,
angular geometric shapes and vowels. It is a common symbol that connects all chakras, which
means a wheel denoting an energy vortex. We know that each colour is associated with a
wavelength and length frequency. The study of vibrations has led to the discovery of cymatic
patterns. These forms are created when waves are produced in different media, which
connects to the study of sacred geometry.

Fig 41: 7 Chakras healing moonstone

Crystal therapy is used to heal chakras. There is a resonance between the frequency of the
crystals and chakra's energetic vibrations which helps in the healing.
53
 Quartz crystals are piezoelectric, i.e., they transmit electricity when held or subjected to
mechanical stress. It has a hexagonal structure, which is why it stays cool at room temperature.
No wonder it has been a popular beauty tool in recent times. It helps in soothing skin
inflammation and keeping it glowing. But it isn't just that skin deep. It is a powerful healing
crystal and one can feel an immediate change in its presence. Egyptian queen Cleopatra
placed giant crystals in her bath area to promote her physical and mental well-being. Apart
from these, salts which also hold a crystalline salt, were a go-to remedy for the evil eye in many
cross-cultural traditions. Its use was also widespread in Mesopotamia and Greece.

I made an Amazonite Carnelian bracelet here for a client who had

significant throat & sacral chakra blocks. Her relationship with her
husband was complex for quite a few years & the blocks were
beginning to physically manifest in her life in the form of PCOS &
irregular periods, lack of intimacy & vulnerability with her
partner(sacral block) & arguments/rude tone of speaking (throat
block). Her heart chakra was also blocked. I gave her a Malachite to
keep next to her while she slept & made this bracelet. Her period cycle
is now back to normal; she recently went on a trip with her husband,
they are speaking again & their relationship has been improving.

-Saanya Chopra Dua

Tarot reader, crystal therapist and healer
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Fig 42: Greek gold and amethyst necklace
The use of healing crystals has been widespread since antiquity; amethyst, in particular, was
used to prevent inebriations due to alcohol. Amethyst is derived from 'amethystos', which
means to intoxicate.
ca. 6th-7th Century A.D.
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 Fig 43: Red coral ring for healing root chakra.
56
 MULADHARA CHAKRA/ ROOT CHAKRA

Colour: Red
Planet Association: Mars
Location: Root of spine
Crystals: Red Jasper, Hematite, Coral, Bloodstone and Garnet.
Mantra: Lam
Symbol:

The Muladhara chakra esoterically forms the base of existence. Starting with the inverted
triangle, which is symbolic of grounding energy (pointing to the Earth) and yoni ( the female
genital), the source of creation and birth. The four petals represent the basis of human
consciousness that is Manas (Mind), Chitta (Consciousness), Buddhi (Intellect) and Ahamkara
(Ego). The square symbol is associated with the Earth element ( providing stability and solid
ground). This association element has a deep significance as it symbolises our base and
worldly desires, as Muladhara is the lowest chakra. Unless we fulfil our basic needs of being
human, we can't move to other chakras. This corresponds to the lower level of Maslow's
hierarchy of needs. Muladhara or the root chakra, is associated with the earth element. Most
precious stones, mineral oil and petrol-related products are excavated from the Earth. It shows
the significance of wealth related to this chakra. It is the ultimate source of financial and
physical stability. In Feng Shui, the earth element is used to create prosperity and stabilise our
finances. Gemstones, crystals and certain other stones are considered to be the reservoir of
Earth's energy as they are extracted from deep underneath the soil, symbolising the womb. In
Feng Shui, they are associated with the Earth element, & are placed in different areas for
promoting grounding and stability at home. The root chakra has also been associated with
Mars, which rules over the body, energy and flesh (Aries). It is also related to energy, vitality,
sexuality, lust, survival and destruction (Scorpio).
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 Fig 44: Citrine bracelet for healing sacral chakra.
58
SWADISTHNA CHAKRA/ SACRAL CHAKRA

Colour: Orange
Luminary Association: Moon
Location: Sacrum
Mantra: Vam
Crystal: Citrine, Moonstone orange Calcite, & Tiger's eye.
Symbol:

The chakra placed next to Muladhara is Swadisthana which is placed in the sacral area of the
spine. The two circles represent the cycle of birth, reincarnation and balance. There is a
crescent moon present in the centre, which is symbolic of fertility themes. Hence it is
associated with procreation and is the seat of the feminine energy of the body. The six petals
here represent the six impurities (wrath, jealousy, lust, hate, cruelty, pride) needed to cleanse
and consolidate this chakra. All of these vices come from a place of the feeling of inadequacy
within the self.

The element associated is water which is fluid and hence developing the attitude of going
with the flow needs to be cultivated. The zodiac sign of Cancer (ruled by the moon)
corresponds with sacral chakra with predominant themes of nurturing others, creating
another life like a mother and birthing new concepts (creativity).
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 Fig 45: Sunstone bracelet for healing solar plexus chakra.
60
MANIPURA CHAKRA/ SOLAR PLEXUS CHAKRA

Colour: Yellow
Luminary Association: Sun
Location: Solar Plexus Area
Mantra: Ram
Crystal: Carnelian, Sunstone, Fire Opal, & Amber.
Symbol:

We notice the repetition of the circle (balance, cycle of life and death) and the triangle shape
(earlier in Muladhara chakra), which shows the projecting of energy into the material world.
This chakra is associated with divine masculine energy as Sun is the ruler of this chakra.

The ten petals represent the ten pranas (life force energies) and the ten Vrittis, which are
manifestations of spiritual ignorance. They are ignorance, thirst, jealousy, treachery, shame,
fear, disgust, delusion, foolishness and sadness.

This chakra is the seat of willpower, individuality and intelligence. In terms of astrology, it is
associated with Leo.
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 Fig 46: Rose quartz necklace for healing heart chakra.
62
 ANAHATA CHAKRA/ HEART CHAKRA

Colour: Green/ Pink

Planet Association: Venus
Location: Heart
Mantra: Yam
Crystal: Rose Quartz, Jade
Symbol:

In the last three chakras, we see the use of the triangle and square shapes, which symbolise
focusing one's energies on the mundane world and grounding. The heart or Anahata chakra, is
the masculine and feminine meeting point. This meeting is represented symbolically through
the hexagram or the star (formed by the crossing of triangles).

The twelve petals represent qualities of a pure heart- joy, peace, love, compassion, kindness,
understanding, forgiveness, patience, connection, harmony, clarity, purity and bliss. The heart
chakra is associated with the planet of Venus, who is personified as a goddess of love and
romance. Colours associated are soothing green and pink. Rose has been the classical symbol
of beauty and devotion. The star shape or the five-petal rose is similar to the pentagram
formed by Venus's orbital resonance with Earth. Hence they were used in matters of love and
heart. Shades of this colour are used to evoke passion. Hence Rose quartz is often linked to
the heart chakra.
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 Fig 47: Turquoise necklace for healing throat chakra.
64
 VISUDDHA CHAKRA/ THROAT CHAKRA

Colour: Blue
Planet Association: Jupiter
Location: Throat Area
Mantra: Ham
Crystal: Turquoise, Aquamarine, Blue Opal, & Apatite
Symbol:

Fig: Visuddha Chakra/ Throat Chakra

The centre of communication, the throat chakra, is represented by 16 petals representing the
Sanskrit alphabet. The triangle shows energy projection through mantras or words into the
material world. The circle and moon symbolise clarity of mind (moon) and emotions. At this
point, the mind has processed much information associated with lower chakras. The energy
from this point is connected to the higher realms. Vissudha also means cleansing all toxins. All
mantras are closely related to this chakra as it is connected to the throat. It goes on to show
how mantra recitation can help clear negative karma.
65
 Fig 48: Lapis lazuli ring for healing third eye chakra.
66
 AJNA CHAKRA/ THIRD EYE CHAKRA

Colour: Indigo
Planet Association: Saturn
Location: Forehead/ Pineal gland
Mantra: Om
Crystal: Lapis Lazuli, Kyanite, Iolite, & Sodalite.
Symbol:

Fig: Ajna Chakra/ Third Eye Chakra

The third eye is one of the most popular concepts prevalent in modern-day spirituality.
Intuition or the sixth sense, is often associated with this chakra.
Coincidentally, in the scheme of chakras, it is also the sixth one.

The ancient civilisation used this imagery to represent the height of intuition.
It is symbolic of seeing things that are beyond the mundane world. This chakra is denoted by
two petals metaphorically representing the materialistic and spiritual sides. Triangle
represents projecting spiritual lessons into the world.
67
 Fig 49: Amethyst necklace for healing crown chakra.
68
 SAHASRARA CHAKRA/ CROWN CHAKRA

Colour: Purple
Planet Association: Ketu
Location: Head
Mantra: Aum
Crystal: Amethyst, Clear Quartz, Selenite, & White opal.
Symbol:

Fig: Sahasrara Chakra/ Crown Chakra

The energetic body of a person is in the shape of a torus. The crown chakra is essentially the
top view of the torus which means a person is fully aware and connected to their spiritual
existence.

The final chakra is the doorway to connect to higher realms of life. It is represented by a
thousand petals showing the spiritual world's multiple aspects and possibilities. When the
kundalini reaches this stage, it is at the height of divine ecstasy—the circle within shows the
entire moon state or the state of complete nourishment. A person who has reached this state
is considered funny awakened.
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 CULTURAL APPROPRIATION

As discussed in the previous chapters, there is a context or background behind the making of
each amulet, talisman or charm. It can’t be studied in a vacuum or in isolation. We discussed
codes in the chapter on esoteric symbolism. Codes join together to larger wholes or they are
interactive within different cultures.
Sometimes it leads to the layering of meaning to certain symbols and reinterpretation in the
modern context. This brings us to the topic of cultural appropriation of certain popular
talismanic objects. Jewellery historian Sigrid Van Roode has remarked that “some amulets are
not appropriated but assimilated by other cultures; it is part of historic cultural exchange. She
sheds some light on this murky topic with the example of The Ballycotton cross, which was
probably not appropriated but assimilated.

Fig 50: Metallic eye engraved plates were part of votive offerings.
Votive offerings were presented as gifts to please gods in many ancient societies like Greek
temples. It was used to heal the affected body part. This practise was also seen in Buddhism,
Jainism, Lutheranism and Christianity as well. It is good representation of assimilation of
cultural symbols.
70
One can also draw many parallels between these meta-physical objects from different regions.
In Christianity, the hand motif is known as the hand of Mary and in Judaism, the number five
has divine connotations. In Hinduism and Buddhism, the mudras or different forms of hands,
have different esoteric meanings. So it is safe to say that although the hand is a popular choice
when it comes to wearing in the form of charm, the context in which it is worn is disparate.

Another popular example of cultural assimilation is the blue-evil eye amulet. The oldest ones
were found in Tell Brak, Mesopotamia, which was a part of Persia. Especially blue coloured
beads were prefered as the blue dye was obtained easily in ancient cultures as cobalt and
copper oxides were found abundantly. Besides, the colour always has positive connotations
associated with it. It transmigrated many regions due to several invasions that occurred in
that area by Romans, Greeks, Egyptians and Ottomans.

However, when religious hymns are embroidered onto some outfits by designers, they can
come across as disrespectful. Especially when one element is taken out of context and
used transiently for a fashion trend, it may seem like it is being used for personal gain.

Syncretism is going a step ahead of appropriation, blending codes of different cultures and
creating something new. Wendy Leeds, in her book Semiotics And Communication,
commented that assimilation and appropriation gradually blend together to form
syncretism.

Misattribution is another issue that follows the use of certain esoteric symbols without
understanding their historical and cultural values. Having said that, irrespective of the use, one
should always give credit to the origin and avoid misuse of something that holds high
sentimental value.
The globalisation of objects of spiritual importance can also negatively trigger the sentiments
of a particular group of people. The protests for cultural appropriation go higher with the
trending videos made by celebrities & users on Instagram and Tik-Tok where symbols such as
a dreamcatcher, the Hamsa, Swastika and the evil eye are showcased.

They are borrowed from particular religious communities, which might come across as
disrespectful when commercialised and used for entertainment purposes. As discussed in
the above paragraphs, the semiotics of these devices hold more significant meaning than
their physical forms; promoting the underlying meaning and symbolism of the charm is
equally essential, especially when international jewellery designers capitalise on it.

The 70s fashion saw the hippies romanticising indigenous and oriental cultures. They found
alternative meanings in their spiritual symbols and misattributed them. Especially in the
context of religious amulets, for instance, rudraksha beads necklaces, it was worn for
superficial reasons.
71
 Fig 51: Amulet featuring a saint with hand in blessing position. The hand is a universal symbol of
healing.
72
 DIGITAL ERA

Similar to fashion, the concept of the protective amulet has evolved with time. The
postmodern era ushered the use of creativity in reviving these ancient beliefs through
designers. Legends such as Christian Dior, Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent were
considered superstitious.

Some numerologists credit the ever-lasting success of Chanel N°5 perfume to the use of five,
which Coco considered as her lucky number. Vivienne Westwood first created her orb
necklace inspired by the British monarchy and the rings of Saturn in the late 80s.

From the widespread use of evil eye symbolism in prints and surface ornamentation to Kenzo’s
Tali big, today it is an integral part of the visual cues that are incorporated in the design. The
importance of the new ‘pop astrology’, its influence over social media and the rise of usage of
crystals have swayed style trends in its direction.

Jewellery designer Elie Top’s Lucky Charms collection incorporated lover-, heart- and star-
shaped symbols which did well commercially. She felt that people are looking for something
reassuring in modern times. Greek jewellery designer Ileana Makri popularised evil-eye jewellery
internationally in 2001 after she witnessed the September 11 attacks.

London-based Alemdara jewellery owner Mariella Tandy saw a huge growth in sales of
talismanic charms during the pandemic, especially for gifting. Liz Olver, director of product
design at Vashi, says there’s been a surge of interest in abstract forms with more personal
meaning since the Covid crisis began. Alighieri’s lion jewels are inspired by a passage in Dante’s
epic poem, Inferno when the poet is confronted by a fearsome lion while lost in a dark wood.

There are several apps which generate a mandala based on your birth date and planetary
position. Food yogi Paul Rodney Turner has the option to create a soul yantra based on your
desired outcome. He makes use of magic squares, sigils and numerology to create his
colourful digital art.

Innovators of wearable tech amulets and graphic design experts are trying to merge ancient
ideas with virtual reality. This can be seen in the modern-day context with Thailand’s
CryptoAmulets NFTs. These digital charms carry the image of a Buddhist monk Luang Pu
Heng who powered them with his blessings. In 2017, a digital amulet necklace wearable
multimedia, which has been 3D printed and technology based on android was created
inspired by Egyptian and South Asian concepts. This design concept opens many doors for
research.

The fact that mystical ornaments are carefully curated with a certain purpose in mind or
‘intention’ reinforces the fact that their true power or magic lies in their ability to influence the
subconscious mind. One can infer that whether they are in tangible form or an abstract digital
image on your phone wallpaper, the true meaning of these metaphysical objects lies in the
values that they bring to your personality.
73
 Fig 52: The Hamsa hand (in upward position) is a potent symbol of protection that protects us
from dark thoughts. The open fingers symbol represents the universal stop sign or that of
defence. It is used for apotropaic properties to prevent Nazar or evil eye.
74
Fig 53: The downward facing Hamsa hand opens you up to all of the universe's blessings,
abundance and manifestations. The fingers are frequently clasped together in this position.
75
 CONCLUSION

Every person ponders upon the nature and relevance of their existence at some point in their
life. While the human being has gained control over the mundane world through his refined
cerebral power, he feels the need to seek something beyond the matter.

American psychologist Maslow placed this need for transcendence and self-actualisation at
the top of the hierarchy of needs. There is the material world which is the condensed form
of energy. But there is also the possibility of new dimensions, such as the spiritual world,
which is beyond the sense perception of human beings.

This close symbiotic relationship between the spiritual and human realms has been an enduring
mystery. This quest led to various philosophical beliefs based on observations of the natural
world—spirituality is based on everything we see in the universe that is mimicked within the
body.

Ancient cultures were aware of this connection and created well-researched methods of
attaining this healing power. Be it an amulet, talisman or charm; all are devices to reach a higher
power and protect at the subtle astral levels.

We have seen in the previous chapters how healing has been on both physical and
metaphysical levels. Since vulnerability to diseases, opposing forces or enemies is part of
human life, apart from their beneficial effects on the wearer, they also serve as means of
protection. Semiprecious stones, crystals, colours, unique materials, holy hymns, powerful
imagery and compelling storytelling helped make them indispensable parts of invisible armour.

Since there was a strong emphasis on spirituality in making them, creating these pieces is a
complex process, as one must deeply understand the client's intention and self-
awareness. So most of these magical objects were custom-made for a person. Because of
the increasing popularity of mass-produced goods, some were replicated and sold as
trendy merchandise. But the value of the original form of personalised energy healing
curated pieces is popular.

Amulets, talismans and fetishes have retained their relevance. They just evolved and adapted
to the changing scenario. Most powerful cultural images were polysemous. It goes on to
prove why cross-cultural amulets are so much in demand. People get attracted to the
mystery they project.

They stay in demand in the form of old artefacts, antique pieces, vintage jewellery or
sentimental souvenirs. Especially with the arrival of digital amulets or tech talismans, their
intangible form is gaining more importance. Whether it was due to visual appeal, collector's
dream or a personal passion, these objects of power are here to stay- tangible or intangible
form.
76
 GLOSSARY

Anno Domini- A.D.

Amulet is an object which offers protection or power to the wearer.
Ankh is an Egyptian motif having a cross with a loop and a bar. It is the hieroglyphic symbol of
life.
Animism is the practice of nature worship or the belief that spirits reside in nature.
Anthropomorphism is the practice of giving human-like attributes to non-human beings, like
objects or animals.
Apotropaic is the power to reverse evil eye or jealousy.
Appropriation is taking a sign in use by one culture for a new service in another culture while
giving it a new meaning.
Assimilation is the direct acquisition of a sign by one culture from another.
Before Christ- B.C
Circa or ca. means the approximate date of the object.
Crystal healing is an alternative form of healing that uses semiprecious stones to cure ailments.
Chakra is a wheel corresponding to the seven energy centres of the human body.
Consecration means association with the divine. Consecrated objects were powered with
sacred hymns.
Contagion is the spreading through contact.
Effigies are life-like dummies made for religious or political purposes.
Esoteric means a specialised form of knowledge understood by a small group of people. Exo-
skeleton is the outer covering of a living organism used for protection.
Fetish is an object that contains a spirit or magical power.
Golden ratio is the mathematical mean which occurs widely in the universe.
Kalachakra means the wheel of time in Vajrayana Buddhism.
Mandala is a geometric configuration of symbols made for meditative practices.
Reiki is a Japanese form of alternative healing which uses the concept of universal energy.
Shamans are people who work with spirit guides.
Situla is the name for old European vessel-shaped buckets made of decorative bronze.
Syncretism is blending two traditions to form a new meaning for the object.
Talisman is an object created with the particular intention of achieving a specific goal.
77
 CREDITS
Mentors
Andrew Tucker
Angela Buttolph

Proof-reading
Govind Maad Kamat

Contributers
Viridiana Benavídez
Jillisa Murray
Jhalen Fears
Saanya Dua
Zenaida Duarte
Hannah Emery
Sufia Ferdos

Photography
Pujasree Vatsa (Visual Guide & Set Designer)
Veepul Rege (Photographer)
Siddhi Madgaonkar (Photographer)
Credits for photos (in Fig 6, 10, 12, 13, 17, 21, 24, 26, 30, 33, 34, 35, 37, 39 and 41)
Photo in circle frames belongs to the interviewees.

Museum
The Metropolitan Museum of Art New York (for open access public domain photos) Credits for
photos (in Fig 1 to 5, 8, 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 19, 22, 23, 25, 28, 29, 32, 38, 41 and 42)
URL: www.metmuseum.org.

Dall-E
AI generated photos
Credits for photos (in Fig 15, 20, 27, 31, 40, 43 to 53)
URL: https://openai.com/dall-e-2/

Unsplash
Credit for photo (in Fig 7)
URL: https://unsplash.com

Canva
URL: https://canva.com

Amulets & Talismans Online Course

Sigrid Van Roode
Looking Beyond Jewellery
Bedouin Silver
URL: https://bedouinsilver.com/product/looking-beyond-jewellery/
78
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