THE TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE & SCIENCES, BHIWANI

SUMMER INTERNSHIP TRAINING REPORT

ON

AURO TEXTILE – WEAVING DIVISION

Submitted By

YASH ARORA
B.TECH- 7TH SEM
TIT&S, BHIWANI

PROJECT TOPIC- TO STUDY THE COMPARISON BETWEEN

SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE OF KARL MAYER (NOM)&

BENNINGER (BEN-TRONIC)

Date- 01/08/2022 To 12/09/2022

Under guidance of Submitted to HR

Mr. ASHWANI SHARMA Mrs. AKANSHA RANA

1
 PREFACE

This report is the outcome of my endeavour in the industrial training program pursued by me

at the prestigious AURO TEXTILE – WEAVING DIVISION, BADDI.

The importance of practical training cannot be ignored in any field. After three years of study

at my institute (THE TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF TEXTILE & SCIENCES). I sensed

this importance and after training of 6 weeks at AURO TEXTILE – WEAVING DIVISION

BADDI (VARDHMAN GROUP), I realized how many benefits practical training has in its

store. I was ushered into a totally new world with modern machineries around me. My practical

knowledge augmented during the training period and then I could realize the theories which I

studied in the period of three years. Exposure to real condition of the mill cleared many

concepts and doubts which got accrued in my mind.

After the completion of my allotted tasks I left, with a magnificent learning experience, with

actually seeing a unit, such big in production, and also lots of memories of the place and the

people there.

2
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

It was a great pleasure to be a part of AURO TEXTILES – WEAVING DIVISION

(Vardhman Group). I am thankful to my institute THE TECHNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE
OF TEXTILE & SCIENCES, BHIWANI for providing me the opportunity for getting the
practical knowledge at such an eminent company.

I am very thankful to HR Mrs. AKANSHA RANA of AURO TEXTILES – WEAVING

DIVISION for providing me the best possible facilities and good environment during the
period of my internship.

I am blessed to have a guide like Mr. ASHWANI SHARMA who kept faith in me during my
project. I acknowledge deep gratitude towards each and every employee for providing me with
their valuable time.

I also pay my gratitude to all the HOD’s of AURO TEXTILES – WEAVING DIVISION for
rendering their precious time.

3
 CONTENT
S.NO TOPIC PAGE NO

1. Vardhman Group 5-12

2. Total Productive Maintenance 13-19

3. Production Planning Control 20

4. Yarn Godown 21-23

5. Weaving Preparatory 24-63

6. Loom Shed 64-77

7. Inspection & Folding 78-89

8. Utility Section 90-91

9. Fabric Marketing 92-93

10. Project 94-110

4
 VARDHMAN GROUP

ESTABLISHMENT OF VARDHMAN

The industrial city of Ludhiana, located in the fertile Malwa region of Central Punjab is
otherwise known as the "Manchester of India". Within the precincts of this city is located the
Corporate Headquarters of the Vardhman Group, a household name in Northern India which
has carved a niche for itself in the textile industry. The Vardhman Group, born in 1965, under
the entrepreneurship of Late Lala Rattan Chand Oswal has today blossomed into one of the
largest Textile Business houses in India under the dynamic leadership of Mr. S.P Oswal,
Chairman cum Managing Director of Vardhman.

BRIEF HISTORY

The Vardhman Group is one of the largest textile houses in the country. The group has size
able presence in Spinning, Weaving, Sewing Threads, Fabrics Processing, Acrylic Fibre
Manufacturing and Alloy Steels. Vardhman Group manufacturing facilities include over 1.1
million spindles, over 580 metric tons per day yarn, 180 million meters per annum fabric, 43
metric ton per day sewing thread, over 20,000 metric tons perineum acrylic fibre, 1,20,000
metric tons per annum steel and crafting of over 5000shirts per day. Vardhman has evolved
through history from a small beginning in 1965 into a modern textile major under the dynamic
leadership of its chairman, S.P. Oswal. His vision and insight has given Vardhman an enviable
position in the textile industry. Under his leadership, Vardhman is efficiently using resources
to innovate, diversify, integrate and build its diverse operations into a dynamic modern
enterprise. Vardhman has 22manufacturing facilities in six states across India. In 1965, at the
time when India was awakening to the need for industrial investment, Ludhiana, a bustling
town in the fertile Malwa belt of Punjab, witnessed the establishment of Vardhman which
started as a 6000 spindle spinning unit under the entrepreneurship of Late Lala Rattan Chand
Oswal. Vardhman has grown into full -fledged textile group, with a range of textile products
stretching from fibre to fabric. At its inception, Vardhman had an installed capacity of 6000
spindles, today; its capacity has increased multifold to over 1.1 million spindles. In 1982 the
Group enteredthe sewing threads market in the country which was a forward integration of the
business. Today Vardhman Threads is the second largest producer of sewing threads in India.
In 1990, it undertook yet another diversification - this time into the weaving business. The grey
fabric weaving unit at Baddi (HP), commissioned in 1990 with capacity of 20,000 meters per
day has already made its mark as a quality producer of Grey Poplin, sheeting, shirting in the
domestic as well as foreign market. This was followed by entry into fabric processing by setting
up Auro Textiles at Baddi and Vardhman Fabric at Budhni, Madhya Pradesh. Today the group
has 900 shuttles-less looms and has processing capacity of 90mn meters fabrics/annum .In the
year 1999, the Group added yet another feather to its cap with the setting up of Vardhman
Acrylics Ltd., Bharuch (Gujarat) which is a joint venture in Acrylic Fibre Production
undertaken with Marubeni and Exlan of Japan. The company also has a strong presence in the
markets of Japan, Hong Kong, South Korea, and US in addition to the domestic market.

5
Adherence to systems and a true dedication to quality has resulted in obtaining the coveted ISO
9002/ ISO 14002 quality award which is the first in Textile Industry in India and yet another
laurel to its credit. The uniqueness of the Vardhman Group lies in the fact that not only has it
excelled in all its endeavours but has also established a firm footing through its deep rooted
culture that imparts the group an unassailable strength and confidence to face the future events.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE GROUP

• Over five decades of valuable experience in the constantly evolving textile industry.
• First Indian Textile Company to get ISO-9002 & ISO 14002 certification in 1992-93.
• Largest yarn manufacturer in India.
• Largest manufacturer and exporter of cotton yarn in India.
• Largest manufacturer of hand knitted yarns.
• Second largest producer of sewing threads in the country.
• Strong presence in markets like the European Economic Community, Canada, China,
Japan, South Korea, Mexico, Brazil, Mauritius and the Middle East.
• Supplier to global garment makers like Tommy Hilfiger, Esprit, Gap, Zara, H&M,
Mango, Benetton and Arrow.
• Winner of OUTSTANDING EXPORT ACHIEVEMENT AWARD ‘of the year 1996-
97.
• Recipient of ‘TRADING HOUSE STATUS’ IN 1994.
• Recipient of ‘STATE EXPORT AWARD’ for five successive years.

LOGO OF VARDHMAN

The “FLAME” signifies growth i.e. Growth the company along with the growth of each and
every individual associated with it whether he/she is a worker, an employee, employer,
shareholders and customers.

The “STICK “symbolizes cotton that is the basic raw material of the core product of Vardhman.

The “V” stands for the VARDHMAN GROUP.

6
MISSION

The Vardhman Group aims to be world class textile organization producing diverse range of
products for the global textiles market. Vardhman seeks to achieve customer delight through
excellence in manufacturing and customer service, based on creative combination of state-of-
the-art technology and human resources. Vardhman committed to be a responsible corporate
citizen.

The mission of the Vardhman Group can be summed up in a single line i.e.

“BEING WORLD CLASS SPINNERS BY PROVIDING BEST QUALITY PRODUCTS

WITHIN MINIMUM COST”

PHILOSOPHY

The Vardhman Group has always emphasized on customers’ focus in all operational areas. It
has continuously nurtured relationship with all the customers and its focus is on service
orientations. The Group philosophy of Vardhman includes:

• Faith in bright future of Indian textiles and hence continued expansion in areas "which
we know best".
• Total customer focus in all operational areas.
• Products to be of best available quality for premium market segments through TQM
and Zero Defect implementation in all functional areas.
• Integrated diversification/product range expansion.
• World class manufacturing facilities with most modern R&D and process technology.
• Faith in individual potential and respect for human values.
• Encouraging innovation for constant improvements to achieve excellence in all
functional areas.
• Accepting change as a way of life.
• Appreciating our role as a responsible corporate citizen.

VARDHMAN TEXTILE LIMITD

COMPANY PROFILE

➢ Registered office/corporate office: Chandigarh Road, Ludhiana, Punjab

➢ Date of Incorporation : 8thOctober, 1973
➢ Listings on Stock Exchange : Bombay Stock Exchange,
➢ Bombay National Stock Exchange, Mumbai.
➢ Ludhiana Stock Exchange Association Ltd.

7
FIRMS UNDER VARDHMAN TEXTILES LTD.

Sr. No NAME LOCATION

1 Vardhman Spinning and Ludhiana, Punjab

General Mills

2 Vardhman Yarns Mandideep Satlapur, MP

3 Vardhman Fabrics Budhni, MP

4 Arihant Spinning Mills Malerkotla, Punjab

5 Arisht Spinning Mills Baddi, HP

6 Auro Spinning Mills Baddi, HP

7 Auro Weaving Mills Baddi, HP

8 Auro Dyeing Baddi, HP

9 Auro Textiles Baddi, HP

10 Vardhman Spinning Mills Baddi, HP

11 Mahavir Spinning Mills Baddi, HP

(Textile Division)

12 Anant Spinning Mills Mandideep, MP

13 Vardhman Fabrics (Power Budhni,MP

Division)

14 Vardhman Yarns (Power Satlapur, MP

Division)

BUSINESS PORTFOLIO

Yarns

Vardhman has attained the status of being the largest manufacturer and exporter of yarn in
India. It is the result of a constant drive for excellence and innovation. Vardhman offers a wide
variety of specialized grey and dyed yarns in cotton, polyester, acrylic and a variety of blends.
Quality consciousness both in products and service has made Vardhman a standard for others
to follow. Yarn is the largest strategic business unit of the Vardhman Group with over 1.1mn

8
spindles and 580mt per day yarn. The Group offers one-stop solution for variety of yarn
requirements of the leading customers in India and the international markets. Vardhman offers
the widest range of specialized greige and dyed yarns (NE 10 to NE 200) in cotton, polyester,
acrylic and variety of blends. The group offers value added products like Organic Cotton,
Melange, Lycra, Ultra Yarns (contamination controlled), Gassed Mercerized Yarn, super fine
yarns and fancy yarns for hand knitting. Vardhman is India's largest exporter of cotton yarn to
the most quality conscious markets like EU, USA and Far Eastern countries.

PRODUCTS APPLICATIONS

Cotton Hosiery Yarn All kinds of knitted garments for kids,

ladies, gents, socks, t-shirts

Woven Yarn Shirts and Trousers

Tyre Cord yarn Manufacturing of Tyres

Acrylic Yarn Sweaters and Shawls

Hand Knitting Yarn Knitting

SEWING THREADS

Vardhman is the second largest producer of sewing thread in the country today with
approximately 43 metric tons per day of sewing thread manufacturing capacity in its sewing
thread plants located at Hoshiarpur , Baddi, and Ludhiana. Sewing threads contributes 12
percent of the group turnover and this business is under the company named “Vardhman Yarn
and Threads Limited”.

SEGMENT APPLICATIONS

Apparel Sewing Threads Clothing, Tailoring, Hosiery

Specialty Threads Sports, Leather Goods, Mattresses, Quilting,

Parachutes etc

Textile Crafts Embroidery, Crochet Tapestry etc

Kite Flying Kite Flying

FABRIC

9
The group has created state-of-the-art fabric weaving and processing facilities in its plant at
Baddi, Northern India. The acrylic fibre of Vardhman is acclaimed for a wide variety of textile
applications.

"VISION: To be globally recognized as a Leading Supplier of Quality Fabrics"

Vardhman is among the few fully integrated fabric suppliers in the country. An exquisite range
of fabrics for shirts and trousers enables Vardhman to offer fashion solutions to the leading
clothing manufactures in the world. The state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities having 900
shuttle-less looms and producing 114mn meters perineum processed fabric are located in North
and Central India, which cater to the highly customized fabric needs of the buyers. An
integrated fabric supply chain extending from raw materials to yarns and from weaving to
processing provides the winning edge to the customers.

FIBRE

Vardhman ventured into the manufacture of acrylic fibre in 1999. Today, Vardhman Acrylics
ltd. produces consistent superior quality fibre and has emerged as an important producer in
India. The products are marketed under the brand name VARLAN. It has capacity of over
20,000mt per annum. Varlan fibre has achieved a high order of recognition in the Indian market
for its use in a wide variety of applications such as dress material, blankets, carpets, upholstery,
furnishing fabrics etc. VARLAN has achieved high level of recognition in the Indian market
because of super soft touch and silky appearance.

PRODUCT FEATURES

Superb soft touch & silky appearance; resilience; excellent dye -ability; brilliant shades, high
bulk yarn products incorporating shrinkable fibres; low pill formation; better crease recovery;
high resistance to chemicals, light, weathering and mildew make VARLAN a preferred fibre
in knitted, woven and other applications.

Steel

Vardhman Special Steels was established in the year 1973 to manufacture Special and Alloy
Steel. The true impetus came with the upgrading of the plant located in Ludhiana to an ultra
modern plant. Today it has an installed capacity of 1, 20,000 mt per annum for steel melting
shop and over 1 50,000mt per annum for Rolling Mill.

Continuous research and development efforts, focused on customer satisfaction, have enabled
Vardhman Steels to meet the stringent quality requirements of producers of all types of
commercial vehicles, tractors, cars, two wheelers, defence applications, and other engineering
products. The company has received approval for its products from leading Companies like
Telco, Ashok Leyland, Maruti, Hindustan Motors, Yamaha, Kinetic and Escorts among others.

10
PRODUCT RANGE OF THE GROUP

Yarn

• 100% Cotton- Carded /Combed

• 100% Acrylic
• Acrylic / Cotton
• Polyester / Cotton
• Mélange
• Cones / Hanks Dyeing
• Raw white / Bleached / Dyed yarn
• Compact Yarn
• Cotton Lycra Yarn
• Modal/Lyocel Cotton
• Hand Knitting Yarn
• Fancy
• Twisted
• Sewing Threads
• Cotton
• Polyester
• Nylon
• Fabrics
• Bottom Weight
• Shirting
• Dyed yarn Shirting
• Special Steels
• Alloy steels
• Low carbon steels
• Spring steels

SWOT ANALYSIS OF VARDHMAN

1. STRENGTHS:

• Good Brand Equity

• Good technological base with Foreign Collaboration
• High Quality Standards
• Increasing Production Capacity
• Own Research and Development department
• Commitment for growth
• Human Capital
• Zero Defect and optimum production with zero wastage
• Strong R & D department
• WEAKNESSES:
• Comparatively high prices
• Lesser degree of promotional activity

11
2 OPPORTUNITIES:

• As quality is good and prices are comparatively high, Vardhman can always easily
liquidate stock pressure by slight reduction in prices.
• As brand image is very good and production is too wide, Vardhman can have some
good customers with whom direct business can be established. With this Vardhman will
have better quantity and regularity of sales
• Strict payments are strengths at times as well as weakness. If a moderate policy, as per
present conditions are adopted, the dealers and customers shall be attracted to buy more
and regularly.
• Shortened hierarchy shall provide hope for better customer service

3 THREATS:

• Smaller players in the market are using Vardhman process as a shield to push their
product at lower prices.
• Companies from south are entering into Ludhiana market.
• Capacity of Yarn Spinning is increasing rapidly in comparison to increase in market
size, resulting into the addition of new players. This would result in price cuts,
liberalization of payment, terms and conditions etc. the various functional areas.

4 DEPARTMENTS IN CORPORATE

• Marketing Department
• A/C & Finance
• HR Department
• Taxation Department
• EBO Department
• Law Department
• Internal Audit
• Commercial Department
• VAL Department
• Export Department
• It’s Department
• Insurance
• G.S.T Department
• Secretarial Department
• Strategic Planning
• PPC Department

12
 TOTAL PRODUCTIVE MAINTENANCE

Introduction:
Total productive maintenance (TPM) is the process of using machines, equipment, employees
and supporting processes to maintain and improve the integrity of production and the quality
of systems. Put simply, it's the process of getting employees involved in maintaining their own
equipment while emphasizing proactive and preventive maintenance techniques. Total
productive maintenance strives for perfect production. That is:

• No breakdowns
• No stops or running slowly
• No defects
• No accidents

Since the goal of total productive maintenance is to improve productivity by reducing

downtime, implementing a TPM program can greatly impact your overall equipment
effectiveness (OEE) over time. To do this, preventive maintenance should always be at the
forefront of everyone's mind. For example, running machines with the mindset of "we'll fix it
when it breaks" is not an option with total productive maintenance. A TPM program helps get
rid of this mindset and turns it into one of putting machinery at the core focus of an operation
and maximizing its availability.
Improving OEE through TPM is often done by forming small, multidisciplinary teams to
address core areas such as preventive and autonomous maintenance, training employees who
operate machinery, and the security and standardization of work processes. Total productive
maintenance focuses on the efficient and effective use of the means of production, meaning all
departments should be involved. These small teams work together to increase productivity and
decrease downtime through equipment reliability.

13
BENEFITS OF TOTAL PRODUCTIVE MAINTENANCE

Going from reactive to predictive maintenance is one of the biggest advantages of

implementing a TPM program. Reactive maintenance or "firefighting" is costly, as you're not
only footing the bill for machinery repairs but also dealing with the cost of unplanned
downtime. Let's take a look at some of the direct and indirect benefits that result from total
productive maintenance.

BENEFITS OF TOTAL PRODUCTIVE MAINTENANCE

DIRECT BENEFITS INDIRECT BENEFITS

Less unplanned downtime resulting Increase in employee confidence levels

in an increase in OEE

Reduction in customer complaints Produces a clean, orderly workplace

Reduction in workplace accidents Increase in positive attitudes among

employees through a sense of ownership

Reduction in manufacturing costs Pollution control measures are followed

Increase in product quality Cross-departmental shared knowledge and

experience

14
 THE 8 PILLARS OF TOTAL PRODUCTIVE MAINTENANCE (TPM)

Traditional total productive maintenance was developed by SEIICHI NAKAJIMA of

JAPAN. The results of his work on the subject led to the TPM process in the late 1960s and
early 1970s. NIPPON DENSO (NOW DENSO), a company that created parts for TOYOTA,
was one of the first organizations to implement a TPM program. This resulted in an
internationally accepted benchmark for how to implement TPM. Incorporating lean
manufacturing techniques, TPM is built on eight pillars based on the 5-S system. The 5-S
system is an organizational method based around five Japanese words and their meaning:

The eight pillars of total productive maintenance focus on proactive and preventive techniques
to help improve equipment reliability. The eight pillars are: Autonomous Maintenance;
Focused Improvement (KOBETUS KAIZEN); Planned Maintenance; Quality Management;
Early Equipment Management; Training and Education; Safety, Health and Environment; and
TPM in Administration. Let's break down each pillar below.

1. AUTONOMOUS MAINTENANCE: Autonomous maintenance means ensuring your

operators are fully trained on routine maintenance like cleaning, lubricating and inspecting, as
well as placing that responsibility solely in their hands. This gives machine operators a feeling
of ownership of their equipment and increases their knowledge of the particular piece of
equipment. It also guarantees the machinery is always clean and lubricated, helps identify
issues before they become failures, and frees up maintenance staff for higher-level tasks.

15
 Implementing autonomous maintenance involves cleaning the machine to a "baseline" standard
that the operator must maintain. This includes training the operator on technical skills for
conducting a routine inspection based on the machine's manual. Once trained, the operator sets
his or her own autonomous inspection schedule. Standardization ensures everyone follows the
same procedures and processes.

2. FOCUSED IMPROVEMENT: Focused improvement is based around the Japanese

term "kaizen," meaning "improvement." In manufacturing, KAIZEN requires improving
functions and processes continually. Focused improvement looks at the process as a whole and
brainstorms ideas for how to improve it. Getting small teams in the mindset of proactively
working together to implement regular, incremental improvements to processes pertaining to
equipment operation is key for TPM. Diversifying team members allows for the identification
of recurring problems through cross-functional brainstorming. It also combines input from
across the company so teams can see how processes affect different departments.

In addition, focused improvement increases efficiency by reducing product defects and the
number of processes while enhancing safety by analyzing the risks of each individual action.
Finally, focused improvement ensures improvements are standardized, making them repeatable
and sustainable.

3. PLANNED MAINTENANCE: Planned maintenance involves studying metrics like

failure rates and historical downtime and then scheduling maintenance tasks based around
these predicted or measured failure rates or downtime periods. In other words, since there is a
specific time to perform maintenance on equipment, you can schedule maintenance around the
time when equipment is idle or producing at low capacity, rarely interrupting production.

Additionally, planned maintenance allows for inventory build up for when scheduled
maintenance occurs. Since you'll know when each piece of equipment is scheduled for
maintenance activities, having this inventory build up ensures any decrease in production due
to maintenance is mitigated.

16
 Taking this proactive approach greatly reduces the amount of unplanned downtime by allowing
for most maintenance to be planned for times when machinery is not scheduled for production.
It also lets you plan inventory more thoroughly by giving you the ability to better control parts
that are prone to wear and failure. Other benefits include a gradual decrease in breakdowns
leading to uptime and a reduction in capital investments in equipment since it is being used to
its maximum potential.

4. QUALITY MAINTENANCE: All the maintenance planning and strategizing in the

world is all for naught if the quality of the maintenance being performed is inadequate. The
quality maintenance pillar focuses on working design error detection and prevention into the
production process. It does this by using root cause analysis (specifically the "5 Whys") to
identify and eliminate recurring sources of defects. By proactively detecting the source of
errors or defects, processes become more reliable, producing products with the right
specifications the first time.

Possibly the biggest benefit of quality maintenance is it prevents defected products from
moving down the line, which could lead to a lot of rework. With targeted quality maintenance,
quality issues are addressed, and permanent countermeasures are put in place, minimizing or
completely eliminating defects and downtime related to defected products.

5. EARLY EQUIPMENT MANAGEMENT: The TPM pillar of early equipment

management takes the practical knowledge and overall understanding of manufacturing
equipment acquired through total productive maintenance and uses it to improve the design of
new equipment. Designing equipment with the input of people who use it most allows suppliers
to improve maintainability and the way in which the machine operates in future designs.

When discussing the design of equipment, it's important to talk about things like the ease of
cleaning and lubrication, accessibility of parts, ergonomically placing controls in a way that is
comfortable for the operator, how changeovers occur and safety features. Taking this approach
increases efficiency even more because new equipment already meets the desired specifications
and has fewer startup issues, therefore reaching planned performance levels quicker.

17
6. TRAINING AND EDUCATION: Lack of knowledge about equipment can derail a
TPM program. Training and education applies to operators, managers and maintenance
personnel. They are intended to ensure everyone is on the same page with the TPM process
and to address any knowledge gaps so TPM goals are achievable. This is where operators learn
skills to proactively maintain equipment and identify emerging problems. The maintenance
team learns how to implement a proactive and preventive maintenance schedule, and managers
become well-versed in TPM principles, employee development and coaching. Using tools like
single point lessons posted on or near equipment can further help train operators on operating
procedures.

7. SAFETY, HEALTH AND ENVIRONMENT: Maintaining a safe working

environment means employees can perform their tasks in a safe place without health risks. It's
important to produce an environment that makes production more efficient, but it should not
be at the risk of an employee's safety and health. To achieve this, any solutions introduced in
the TPM process should always consider safety, health and the environment.

Aside from the obvious benefits, when employees come to work in a safe environment each
day, their attitude tends to be better, since they don't have to worry about this significant aspect.
This can increase productivity in a noticeable manner. Considering safety should be especially
prevalent during the early equipment management stage of the TPM process.

8. TPM IN ADMINISTRATION: A good TPM program is only as good as the sum of its
parts. Total productive maintenance should look beyond the plant floor by addressing and
eliminating areas of waste in administrative functions. This means supporting production by
improving things like order processing, procurement and scheduling. Administrative functions
are often the first step in the entire manufacturing process, so it's important they are streamlined
and waste-free. For example, if order-processing procedures become more streamlined, then
material gets to the plant floor quicker and with fewer errors, eliminating potential downtime
while missing parts are tracked down.

HOW TO IMPLEMENT TOTAL PRODUCTIVE MAINTENANCE

You have an understanding of the foundation (5-S system) and pillars on which the TPM
process is built, let's take a look at how to implement a TPM program. This is generally done

18
in five steps: identifying a pilot area, restoring equipment to prime operating condition,
measuring OEE, addressing and reducing major losses, and implementing planned
maintenance.

Total Productive Maintenance is a program for increasing the efficiency of machines and
processes, standing on eight TPM pillars with 5S as its foundation. Before any of the eight
pillars of TPM can be put in place, a “5S” foundation must be built. The purpose of laying this
foundation is to introduce standardization and continuous improvement processes into every
TPM activity.

➢ SORTING: Determine which items are used frequently and which are not. The ones
used frequently should be kept close by, others should be stored further away.

➢ SYSTEMIZE: Each item should have one place and one place only to be stored.
➢ SHINE: The workplace needs to be clean. Without it, problems will be more difficult
to identify, and quality maintenance will be more difficult to perform.
➢ STANDARDIZE: The workplace should be standardized and labelled. This often
means creating processes where none existed previously.
➢ SUSTAIN: Efforts should be made to continually perform each of the other steps at all
times.

Once each of the 5S actions has been established and is part of the facility culture, it’s time to
move on to the eight pillars of TPM.

SUSTAINING THE IMPROVEMENT ACHIEVED WITH TOTAL

PRODUCTIVE MAINTENANCE
Implementing a total productive maintenance program offers relatively short-term success. The
trick is sustaining that success over the long term. This starts with the employees. If employees
buy into the TPM program, envision the improved future of the company and can see how this
improved future benefits them, it can create a powerful sense of cohesiveness. Rewarding
achievements is an excellent way to strengthen the established cohesiveness among employees.

Another way to achieve sustainable improvement with your TPM program is by having
engaging, active leadership. This shows the importance of the program through not just words
but actions. Engaging leadership prevents employees from slipping back into old habits and
breathes new energy into the process on a regular basis. Finally, don't overlook kaizen.
Continuous improvement helps your TPM program adapt to changing environments and keeps
the program from becoming stale and employees from becoming disinterested.

19
 PRODUCTION PLANNING CONTROL

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within the required
time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. “Planning” gives a scheduled
task and ‘control’ completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an easy
task. Basic working procedure of production planning and control is given as follows –

✓ Receiving orders from marketing division.

✓ Analyzing the orders.
✓ Planning for yarn availability for the fabric formation.
✓ Planning for greige order commitment date.
✓ Information providing to logistic team and logistic team add process time finish wise.
✓ Finally updating to marketing division for order completion.

FLOW PROCESS OF PRODUCTION PLANING CONROL

ORDER RECEIVED BY MARKETING TEAM

INFORMATION PROVIDED TO LOGISTIC TEAM (ORDER MANAGEMENT; SUPPLY CHAIN)

INFORMATION PROVIDED TO MSML PPC FOR FABRIC FORMATION

GREY YARN AVAILABILITY CHECK

IF YARNS ARE AVAILABLE IF NOT AVAILABLE THEN WE PROCURE

MSML PPC – DYED YARN REQUIREMENT

SEND TO AURO DYEING PPC

AURO DYEING PPC DYEING COMMIT

DATE OF ORDER AVAILABILITY

MSML PPC PLOT SCHEDULED OF FABRIC FORMATION AS PER LOOM AVAILABILITY

GREIGE COMMITMENT DATE

INFORMATION PROVIDED TO LOGISTIC TEAM FOR GREY FABRIC AVAILABILITY

LOGISTIC TEAM ADD THE PROCESSING TIME OF FABRIC FINISH WISE

ORDER COMPLETION DETAILS ARE PROVIDED TO MARKETING TEAM

20
 YARN GODOWN

Yarn Go-down consist of cone or cheeses and it is require in weaving.

Pallet : Around 250-300 such cones or cheese are placed systematically and
packed by plastic sheet . This makes transport of this material easy and saves time
also. If material is procuring from another company, then it will be in the form of
box. Each box contains around 18 cones.

Different Types of yarns and counts

Carded Warp (KW), Combed Warp (CW), Carded Warp Compact (KWC),
Combed Warp Compact (CWC), Polyester cotton blend (PC), Open End (OE),
Open End PC and ELLI, such types of yarns are used mostly. The counts of yarns
used is ranges between 8s to 60s Ne

Types of yarns Counts of yarn (Ne)

CW, KW, CWC, KWC, 10,12,14,15,16,20,

PC, OE, ELLI, OEPC 24,30,32,40,2/40,60

21
 TYPES OF YARN SOURCE

OPEN END AURO SPINNING , V.F.(BUDHNI)

CARDED V.F(BUDHNI),V.S.G.M, VMT

COMBED ARISHT SPINNING,VSM,AURO SPINNING,VMT

COMPACT VSM,ARISHT SPINNING,AURO SPINNING

ORGANIC YARN AURO SPINNING,ARISHT SPINNG

P/C BLENDS ARISHT SPINNING

MELANGE ARIHANT SPINNING MILL, VARDHMAN YARN AND

THREADS

DYED AURO DYEING

SLUB YARN V.S.G.M LUDHIANA

LYCRA AURO SPINNING

LINEN OUT SOURCE(JAY SHREE)

POLYESTER OUT SOURCE(HEMLON, RELIANCE, MADHUSUDAN)

NYLON J.C.T, SARLA

Pallet and box

Parameters Pallet Box

No of cones 250-300 18

Net weight (kg) 750-800 45-50

Dimensions (mm) 1100×1100×1700 450×650×500

22
7 keys and LOT number identification
7 key is one type of code which gives information regarding material. Lot number is also a
code which gives information regarding pallet or boxes. This method is made by company to
identify and separate out the raw material which helps to avoid mixing of material and wrong
processing of material. This method makes process more flexible and easier to work.

Lot no

E 2 M K 1 30 205

➢ E - Company name
➢ 2 - Unit number
➢ M - Year of manufacturing
➢ K - Type of Yarn
➢ 1 - Ply
➢ 30 - Count
➢ 205 - Lot number (given by spinning according to mixing)

WARP YARN key Identification

YDY 1/32 CC AO C KWNRZI CCCA0NR HU NA

YDY – Yarn dyed

1/32 - Ply/Count

CC - Cotton Blend

A0 - 100% Blend (Mixing)

C - Combed

CWNRZ1 - CW- Combed Warp, NR- Normal, Z- Twist direction

CCCAONR - CCC- Cotton, AO- 100%, NR - normal

23
 WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESS

Weaving is the most popular technique of fabric manufacturing. In case of weaving, two sets
of yarn are required to produce a fabric. One is warp, which runs along the length of the fabric
and the other is weft, which runs along the width of the fabric. Warp yarns are usually stronger
and more compact than the weft or filling yarns. Yarns as manufactured and packaged are not
actually suitable for direct use to form fabrics. It is necessary to prepare it to be handled
efficiently during fabric formation.
With the advent of new methods of spinning viz. open-end, air-jet and friction spinning, the
spun yarns are wound on large packages. In such cases the packages of weft yarns may not be
required to be prepared further and are taken straight to the weaving process with shuttleless
looms.

YARN FROM SPINNING

WARP WEFT

WARPING WINDING

SIZING

DRAWING-IN

WEAVING

24
 FLOW CHART OF PREPARATORY PROCESS

DRAWING
WARPING SIZING
IN

WARPING
Warping is the preparation of yarn to weave fabric. It is the transfer of many yarns from the
creel of single packages to a beam. The yarns will form a parallel sheet of yarn wound onto the
beam. The basic objective of warping is to built a package where yarn ends remain in uniformly
set parallel & continuous form & there by to accelerate the next process either sizing or
drawing-in.

OBJECTIVES OF WARPING

The main objective of warping is to prepare a warp sheet of desired length containing a desired
number of yarns that are wrapped on a flanged barrel in such a manner that tension in each
yarn and density of yarn mass in the cylindrical assembly are maintained within a given
tolerance level throughout the wrapping of the warp beam.

• To prepare a continuous sheet of warp ends.

• To keep all ends parallel to one another.
• To improve the quality of warp yarn by modifying big knots, thick and thin places etc.
• To prepare the warper’s beam or weaver’s beam for the next process.

25
THE ESSENTIAL FEATURES OF A GOOD WARP ARE AS
FOLLOWS:
1. Sufficiently and uniformly strong.
2. Uniform in cross section.
3. Uniform warp tension.
4. Uniformly sized.
5. Less hairy and clean.
6. Minimum no. Of knots.
7. Proper or standard size and type of knots.
8. Free from naps, slobs and loose fiber.
9. Parallel arrangement of work yarn in the weaver beam.

IMPORTANCE OF WARPING:
1. Construction of beam warps yarn.
2. Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.
3. Modifying the fault of yarn like thick places, large knots etc.
4. Winding the predetermined length of yarn.
5. Combination of small packages.
6. Finding long length of warp yarn.
7. Accelerating the next process.

TYPES OF BREAKAGES IN WARPING:

❖ WEAK PLACE- These are generally occur in spinning and have thin places in yarn or low
twist.
❖ FOREIGN MATTER- Coming of any foreign particle that is leaves or seeds in the yarn
in spinning cause breakage in Warping.
❖ CUT CONE- If the yarn had been damaged and have a sharp cut.
❖ ENTANGLEMENT- If the yarn gets entangled with the other yarn and because of that
breakage takes place.
❖ BAD WINDING- Winding of the package is not done properly and causes problem in yarn
release and causes breakage.
❖ SLOUGHING-OFF- If the bunch of yarn comes out due to bad winding of yarn and causes
machine stoppage.
❖ CONE FINISH- While warping some cones may get finished.

26
 TYPES OF WARPING

WARPING

DIRECT WARPING SECTIONALWARPING

DIRECT WARPING OR BEAM WARPING:

When the yarns are drawn from the single packages on the creel directly onto the beam then it
is called direct warping. It is also called high speed warping or beam warping. Direct warping
is used to make smaller beams which are combined later in slashing to produce the weaver’s
beam. Direct warping is used to manufacture greige towels; that will be dyed or full bleached
during wet processing. Modern beam warping machines have creels with moveable trolleys.

FLOW CHART OF DIRECT WARPING MACHINE

CREEL HOLDER

CONE

TENSIONER (EITHER DISC

TYPE OR TENSION ROD)

ZIG ZAG COMB

CROSS ROD

GUIDE ROLLER

WARPERS 27
BEAM
Fig: Sucker Machine Fig: Benninger Machine

Fig: Karl Mayer Fig: Karl Mayer

28
 DIRECT WARPING MACHINE SPECIFICATION

SPECIFICATION MACHINE NO MACHINE NO MACHINE MACHINE

-1 -2 NO - 3 NO -11

MANUFACTURER Sucker Benninger Karl Mayar Karl mayar

MODEL Comwarp Bendirect Warpdirect Warpdirect

YEAR 2005 2014 2018

WORKING WIDTH 1800mm 1800mm 1800mm 1800mm

PRESSURE DRUM Wooden Wooden finish Wooden Wooden

ROLLER finish cover cover finish cover finish cover

MAXIMUM WARPING 1000m/min 1000m/min 1800m/min 1800m/min

SPEED

ACTUAL WARPING 800m/min 800m/min 800m/min 800m/min

SPEED

BRAKE Hydraulic Hydraulic Hydraulic Hydraulic

CREEL CAPACITY 672 656 738 784

TYPE OF TENSIONER Disc type Tension rod Tension rod Tension rod

TYPE OF REED Zig zag Zig zag Zig zag Zig zag

TYPE OF CREEL H type V type V type V type

VOLTAGE/FREQUENCY 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz

29
 TENSION CHART OF VARIOUS WARPING MACHINE

COUNT SPEED (MPM) PRE TENSIONER SETTING

(MM)

7OE, 10OE 900 10mm

14OE,16OE 900 10mm

2/20K, 2/30K 900 15mm

2/40C 900 15mm

2/50C, 2/60C 900 15mm

14PC, 16K 900 15mm

20K, 24K 900 15mm

2/80C 900 15mm

2/100C 900 15mm

30C 900 10mm

40C 800 10mm

45PC, 42CVC 800 10mm

50C, 60C 800 10mm

70C, 80C 600 0

30
DAILY CHECK POINT FOR DIRECT WARPING MACHINE
❖ General cleaning
❖ Checking for any abnormal sound
❖ Checking stop motion working
❖ Checking of yarn brake condition
❖ Checking of beam break condition
❖ Checking of machine instant stop
❖ Checking of beam clamping / declamping condition
❖ Checking of comb traverses
❖ Checking of pressure roller condition
❖ Checking of creel zone alignment
❖ Checking of safety guard condition
❖ Checking of indication lamp

POINTS FOR BEN-DIRECT WARPING MACHINE

❖ Checking of hydraulic condition
❖ Checking of thread cutter

POINTS OF COM WARP DIRECT WARPING MACHINE

❖ Checking of capston roller condition
❖ Checking of tension measuring sensor condition
❖ Checking of blower condition
❖ Checking of pneumatic system
❖ Checking of all ceramic guide

31
 SECTIONAL WARPING
Sectional warping is one of the important processes of textile weaving where equal length of
yarn is wound first in small sheets or sections on a drum. After that, it is transferred to the beam
from the drum in the form of a sheet. This type of warping is a two stage process which is used
to produce fancy fabrics by using colour and weave effect. Sectional warping is also known as
pattern warping, indirect warping, drum warping and band warping.

WORKING PROCEDURE OF SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE:

The working principle of a sectional warping machine is as follows:

1. Yarn ends supplied from creel are spaced very closely and thus form a warp sheet. This
sheet is wound on a beam. The width of the beam between flanges is equal to the loom warp
set width of the section sheet. The no. of section beams is determined by respective no. of
ends in the section and the complete warp.
2. Each such sheet of warp ends is called a section.
3. Stability of the yarn build of the first section on the reel is obtained by moving the section
sheet laterally at a regular rate fitted at one end of reel.
4. When the first section is completed, then the others of its build on the drum is replica of the
original incline sections to the number required for the complete warp are wound on the
next section.
5. Fancy warps are prepared by dressing yarn packages in the creel for each section in
conformity with warp pattern plan.
6. Section sheets are attached to a beam and withdrawn simultaneously from the reel by
rotation of the beam. For winding the warp on to the beam, this unrolling is controlled to
provide accurate warp tension in textile weaving.
7. As beaming off proceeds, the warp beam is moved laterally at the same ate but in the
direction opposite to that of the section during warping. This confirms that the complete
warp sheet runs from the reel to between the beam flanges without the necessity for lateral
deviation.

32
FLOW CHART OF SECTIONAL WARPING

CREEL

YARN GUIDE

TENSIONER

CERAMIC GUIDE

CERAMIC PIN

ELECTROMAGNETIC STOP MOTION

LEASE REED

MAIN REED

GUIDE ROLLER

SECTIONAL WARPING

BEAMING

33
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF SECTIONAL WARPING OF
BENNINGER

SPECIFICATION MACHINE MACHINE NO MACHINE MACHINE

NO -4 -5 NO - 12 NO -13

MANUFACTURER BENNINGER BENNINGER BENNINGER BENNINGER

MODEL Ben - Tronic Ben - Tronic Ben - Tronic Ben - Tronic

YEAR 1999 2005 2014 2018

WORKING WIDTH 1800mm 1800mm 1800mm 1800mm

FLANGE DIAMETER 1000mm 1000mm 1000mm 1000mm

MAXIMUM WARPING 800m/min 800m/min 800m/min 800m/min

SPEED

ACTUAL WARPING 500m/min 500m/min 500m/min 500m/min

SPEED

BRAKE Hydraulic Hydraulic Hydraulic Hydraulic

DRIVE AC inventor AC inventor AC inventor AC inventor

drive drive drive drive

CREEL CAPACITY 720 640 720 720

TYPE OF TENSIONER Disc type Disc type Disc type Disc type

TYPE OF REED V reed V reed V reed V reed

TYPE OF CREEL H type H - creel H - creel H – creel

VOLTAGE/FREQUENCY 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz

34
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF SECTIONAL WARPING OF
KARL MAYAR

SPECIFICATION MACHINE NO -7 MACHINE NO – 11

MANUFACTURER KARL MAYER KARL MAYER

MODEL Ergotec NOM

YEAR 2018 2015

WORKING WIDTH 2000mm 1500mm

COMPLETE WIDTH 2200mm 2000mm

BARREL DIAMETER 214mm 214mm

FLANGE DIAMETER 1000mm 1000mm

MAXIMUM WARPING SPEED 800m/min 800m/min

ACTUAL WARPING SPEED 500m/min 500m/min

BRAKE Hydraulic Hydraulic

DRIVE AC inventor drive AC inventor drive

CREEL CAPACITY 1440 320

TYPE OF TENSIONER Disc type Disc type

TYPE OF REED V reed & flat reed V reed

TYPE OF CREEL H type H – type

VOLTAGE/FREQUENCY 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz

35
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF SECTIONAL WARPING OF
PRASHANT GAMATEX

SPECIFICATION MACHINE NO -6 MACHINE NO - 8 MACHINE NO - 10

MANUFACTURER PRASHANT PRASHANT PRASHANT

GAMATEX GAMATEX GAMATEX

MODEL ESP 1100 Lasertronic plus – LASER TONIC

1100

YEAR 2007 2018 2011

WORKING WIDTH 1800mm 1800mm 1800mm

BEAM DIAMETER 214mm 214mm 214mm

FLANGE DIAMETER 1000mm 1000mm 1000mm

MAXIMUM WARPING 800m/min 800m/min 800m/min

SPEED

ACTUAL WARPING 500m/min 500m/min 500m/min

SPEED

BRAKE Hydraulic Hydraulic Hydraulic

DRIVE AC inventor drive AC inventor drive AC inventor drive

CREEL CAPACITY 720 672 768

TYPE OF TENSIONER Disc type Disc type Disc type

TYPE OF REED V reed V reed V reed

TYPE OF CREEL H type H – creel H – creel

VOLTAGE/FREQUENCY 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz 400v/50Hz

36
FUNCITION OF PARTS OF DIRECT WARPING MACHINE:

1. CREEL: The yarn packages are mounted on the creel. It is a very important part of the
warping machine. The cone holders are arranged in vertical columns on both sides of the creel,
no of columns of cone holders on both sides of the creel are there in the creel of the direct and
sectional warping machine. The creel of sectional warping contains 8 or 9 rows on each side. The
number of columns varies according to the requirement of creel capacity. In this creel, yarn
packages are mounted on the cone holders from outside of the creel.
Two types of creels are used H-creel & V-creel.
H creel V creel
Principle used as truck type mobile In this creel type creel board are
package carrying unit assembled in form of endless chain.
While warping is carried out from outer
side using the already creeled up bobbin,
the subsequent yarn lot can creel up on
the empty spindle. Positioned inside the
creel.

This unit consist of no. of column & row The interior room serves at same time as
(6*9) depend on package size and creel storage and bobbinexchange station.
gauge.

So that when inserted on the axis of creel The yarn lot can be changed by simply
frame it becomespart of creel. Provided pushing a button whichstart electric drive
the side member carrying tensionunit & to chain.
stop motion.

Creel has guide at top and bottom, Empty bobbin move towards inside of the
enabling package has to run easly such creel and full bobbintoward outside.
units are loaded away from creel area.

37
2. TENSIONER: The main function of the tensioner is to impart a sufficient amount of
tension to the yarn. Normally inverted cup and deadweight washers type of tensioner is
used in sectional warping machine. The number of washers and their weight depends upon
the yarn count to be used in the warping process. In direct warping tension rod are used and
their settings are to be done according to yarn count.

3. CERAMIC GUIDE: It is used in sectional warping machine. The yarns are guided through
the ceramic guide and passed to the electromagnetic stop motion.

4. CROSS ROD: cross rod are used in direct warping machine as it is used to separate the
overlapped yarns and it works in every 30 seconds.

38
5. LEASE REED: It is located just after the separator rods. Its function is to help to insert
the lease (the lease contains two strings). All the odd number ends pass over the first string
and even number ends pass under it. Now odd number ends change their position and pass
under the second string. The even number ends also change their position too and pass over
the second string). This reed is designed in such a way that the warp ends are divided into
two layers when it is lowered or lifted. A pneumatic cylinder is used to lift or lower it. In
some machines toothed racks, gears and electric motor perform this action.

6. FLAT REED OR V REED: The yarn now passes through the dents of flat or v – shape
reed. The main role of it is to keep the warp ends parallel to each other. It also maintains
equal space among all warp ends. The number of ends per inch in the weaver’s beam
depends upon the reed count and denting order used. This reed is mounted on the reed table
which can move left and right direction by rotating a hand wheel fitted at one side of the
table. Reed can also be turned at a certain angle for adjusting section width whenever flat
reed is being used. When the v-shape reed is used, the adjusting table has the mechanism
to reduce or increase the width of the reed.

7. GUIDE ROLLER: The warp ends now pass between two guide rollers. These rollers are
made of stainless steel, Teflon or vacalite fibre sheet. Lengthwise grooves are made on
these rollers which help to spread the warp end in the section.

39
8. WARPING DRUM: This is a metallic drum. Its diameter varies from 2.5 to 3.0 metres
according to the make of the machine. The length of the drum varies according to the
maximum beam width required to be warped.

9. SIGNAL LAMP: The signal lamp is located on the left side of the machine. There are
three types of lights used in this lamp. A green lamp means warping or beaming under
process. Red light enables that machine to be stopped for warp breakage or manual stop.
The white lamp enables that section length has been completed. In case of direct warping
red light denotes warp breakage and orange light denotes cone exhaust and creeling change
time.

40
MAINTENANCE OF SECTIONAL WARPING
DAILY MAINTENANCE-
❖ Checking of any abnormal noise
❖ Cleaning of air and oil leakage
❖ Checking of instant stop when yarn brake
❖ Checking of all blowing points
❖ Checking of all indication lamp
❖ Checking of evener roller
❖ Checking of creel tension
❖ Checking of beam clamping and declamping
WEEKLY MAINTENANCE
❖ Cleaning of machine
❖ Checking any abnormal noise
❖ Checking of air & oil leakage
❖ Checking of instant stop when yarn breaks
❖ Checking of all indication lamp
❖ Lubrication of all lubrication points
❖ Drum brake pad cleaning

MONTHLY CHECK POINTS

❖ General maintenance work
❖ Lubricate all moving part like rack gears, screw
❖ Lubricate all greasing points
❖ Cleaning all rack,gear,screw
❖ Checking all blowing points
❖ Checking of all stop motion
❖ Checking of all beam clamping /de clamping
❖ Checking of all gear box oil level
❖ Checking of all switch and indication lamp
QUARTERLY CHECK POINTS
❖ General maintenance work
❖ Both side drum brake pad condition
❖ Checking of all belt condition
❖ Checking of drum ,u/c rail condition
❖ Checking of leasing device

41
 SIZING
➢ The sizing is a preparatory process of weaving that comes after warping. It is a very
important and critical preparatory process. “The process of application of a thin film of
adhesive and binder on the yarn surface to improve the readability of yarn is called sizing
process”.
➢ It is essential for weaving the fabric with single-ply spun yarn. The quality of the sizing
process directly influences the performance of the loom and the quality of the fabric to be
woven. "The people say that sizing is the HEART OF WEAVING".
➢ In this process, the warp sheet gets immersed in the paste of adhesive and binder, and then
the warp is squeezed properly to eliminate the excess amount of adhesive. Now the warp
is dried and the ends are separated from each other. Now the warp ends are wound on the
weaver’s beam. The strength of warp yarn is increased after the sizing process. The
hairiness of yarn gets reduced too.
➢ During the sizing process, warp yarn passes under moderate tension. This tension causes
some stretch in the yarn, thus elongation of yarn after sizing gets reduced. This is a negative
aspect of the sizing process.
➢ Many types of sizing agents are used in the sizing process to improve various properties of
the yarn. This process is carried out carefully and precisely. Improper and poor sizing
results from many difficulties in weaving. An excess amount of sizing also creates
difficulties.
➢ The amount of size pick-up is applied according to the yarn parameters used in warp yarn.
The selection of correct sizing ingredients plays a major role in the quality performance of
sizing. Better process control and quality control in sizing always result in the form of the
best performance of the sizing process.

OBJECT OF SIZING PROCESS:

The main objective of the sizing process is given below:

❖ To improve the weave ability of warp yarn.

❖ To improve the fibre to fibre adhesion force in the yarn.
❖ To prevent slippage of fibers in the yarn during weaving.
❖ To make the yarn twist permanent by applying adhesive film on the yarn surface. The
twist in upsized yarn tends to untwist due to rolling action during weaving so that it
necessitates to be fixed.
❖ To strengthen the warp yarn.
❖ To improve the abrasion resistance of warp yarn.
❖ To protect the yarn from being ruptured during passing through drop pin, the eye of
heald wire and dent of reed.
❖ To reduce the hairiness of warp yarn.
❖ To improve the smoothness of warp yarn.
❖ To ensure good fabric quality in weaving.
❖ To ensure maximum efficiency of the weaving process.

42
BASIC REQUIREMENTS OF SIZING PROCESS:

The basic requirements of the sizing process are given below:

❖ The film of adhesive should be as flexible as possible.

❖ The loss of elongation at the break of yarn should be as minimum as possible.
❖ The adhesive film should not be cracked due to abrasion during weaving.
❖ Moisture content of warp should be properly maintained.
❖ There should be a minimum sticking end in the sized beam.
❖ It should be ensured that sizing liquor penetrates the yarn. It should not coat only the surface
of the yarn.
❖ Stretch percentage should be minimum to control the loss of elongation at break.
❖ Size pick-up should be proper to reduce warp breakages in the weaving.
❖ Size pick-up below the required amount and excess amount is always dangerous in sizing.
These factors should be controlled necessarily.
❖ All the beams should have equal tension during sizing to obtain uniform tension in the sized
beam.
❖ Adhesive film should be smooth.
❖ There should be no yarn rupture during the process.
❖ Hairiness should be reduced.
❖ Beam winding tension should be proper.
❖ There should be minimum short ends in the sizing beam.
❖ The warp ends should be equally distributed across the beam width by using the correct
denting order.

SIZING INGREDIENTS:

The chemicals to be used in the preparation of sizing liquor is called sizing ingredients. Sizing
ingredients may be classified into two categories:

• Primary sizing ingredients

• Secondary sizing ingredients

PRIMARY SIZING INGREDIENTS:

The names and their roles of primary sizing ingredients are given below:

• ADHESIVE AGENT:

The main role of an adhesive agent in the sizing liquor is to form a thin layer (film) on the yarn
surface. A major portion of sizing liquor consists of adhesive agents. It penetrates inside the
yarn and increases the yarn strength. The protruding fibers also bind with the yarn surface and
help to increase yarn strength and hairiness of the yarn reduces.

• SIMPLE STARCH:

This is untreated starch powder. Mainly maize starch, sago starch, wheat starch, potato starch
are used as adhesive agents in sizing. The viscosity of sizing liquor with untreated starch is
always high. It gives poor penetration in the warp yarn. This starch is suitable for sizing a
coarse count of yarn up to 20s count.

43
The viscosity of untreated starch can be improved by adding potassium persulphate in it and
improved viscosity of liquor allows to use it in the sizing of a medium count of yarn. It gives
the best performance in weaving with the medium speed of loom. This is cost-effective. It
helps to control the sizing cost per kilogram of warp.

• THIN BOILING STARCH:

It is chemically treated starch. It has a lower viscosity than untreated starch. It easily
penetrates the yarn. When warp count increases, the size pick-up percentage is also increased
thus the concentration of liquor is also increases but the viscosity of liquor is kept almost the
same by using thin boiling starch. It may be successfully used in the sizing of the medium
count of warp yarn. It is a little expensive than untreated starch.

• MODIFIED STARCH:

it chemically modified starch. It has a very low viscosity. It gives the best penetration effect
in the yarn. It is suitable for all types of yarn count. It can be used for sizing of warp of high-
speed loom. Good quality of fabric results with this adhesive. Maximum efficiency can be
achieved by using this adhesive. This is much expensive so that it is used in the sizing of a
fine count of warp yarn only.

• BINDING AGENT:

It is used to make the adhesive film enough strong. The adhesive film has brittleness. When it
passes through various kinds of abrasive actions and jerks during weaving, the adhesive film
becomes cracked and end breakage results during weaving. The binding agent provides
strength to the adhesive film and prevents becoming a crack. There are many types of binding
agents that are given below:

• Guar gum

• Carboxy methyl cellulose (C.M.C.)

• Polyvinyl alcohol (P.V.A.)

• Polyester binder(R- bind, bilbind PS, eco size)

• Acrylic binder (rainscel)

Above binding agents are used individually or within combination according to requirement,
quality and the warp count is always taken into consideration before the selection of binding
agents.

• SOFTENING AGENT:

It is used to make the adhesive film more soft and flexible. As we know that the warp yarn
passes through different angles so that the adhesive film becomes cracked due to the bending
movement of the yarn. This problem necessitates that the adhesive film should be soft and
flexible. The softening agent provides enough softness to the adhesive film. It also makes the
yarn surface smooth. Following types of softening agents are used now these days:

• Vegetable fats (dalda, refined oil)

44
• Animal fats (mutton tallow)

• Synthetic softener (R-soft, textile wax)

A little amount of softener is used in the sizing liquor. It does not affect the cost of the sizing
process on many scales.

SECONDARY SIZING INGREDIENTS:

The secondary sizing ingredients of sizing agents are given below:

• Antistatic agent:

It prevents the generation of electrostatic charge in the warp yarn during weaving. When the
warp makes up and down movement during weaving, the ends rub to each other and generate
an electrostatic charge in the warp. These electrostatic charges cause warp breakage during
weaving. A very little amount of antistatic agent is used in the sizing liquor. The types of
antistatic agents are given below:

• Sepcostate

• LV-40

• PAA-40

• Antiseptic agent:

It is used to prevent bacteria or mildew formation in the sized beam or fabric woven from a
sized warp. When the sized warp or fabric remains unused, there are chances of bacteria or
mildew formation in humid conditions or rainy seasons. Some antiseptic agent is added to the
sizing liquor to avoid this problem.

• Salicylic acid

• Zinc chloride

• Phenol

• Emulsifier

• Copper sulphate

• Hygroscopic agent:

The main role of the hygroscopic agent in the sizing liquor is to improve the moisture
absorption capacity of warp from the air. Since we know that the strength of cotton increases
by increasing moisture percentage when the warp absorbs the moisture during weaving, the
warp breakage rate is reduced. The majorly using hygroscopic agents are given below:

• French chock

• China clay

45
BASIC REQUIREMENT OF SIZING INGREDIENTS:

The basic requirements of sizing ingredients are given below:

• It should be that which gives the least exfoliation.

• It should be easily washable i.e. permits easy desizing.
• It should give good fabric characteristics.
• It should be compatible with the machinery & associated parts.
• It should not cause any degradation of the textile material.
• It should not cause any health hazard.
• It should be cheap.
• Size ingredients should be neutral.
• It should be available.

CHIMECALS USED IN A SIZING KITCHEN:-

➢ Soloact SFR - Depends on count {fine count}

➢ Soloact CRF - Depends on count {thicker count}
➢ SoftsizeMTR- 3KG in 650Lt. water & 2KG in 600Lt water
➢ TEXOPLAST- 10KG in pre- mixer
➢ KETANOL- 10KG in pre- mixer
➢ Celof-2002- rarely used in storage
➢ Antistatic - 1KG in pre- mixer
➢ PLC- 3KG in 100kg SFR

STRUCTURE AND WORKING OF SIZING MACHINE:

• Creel
• Sow box
• Liquor circulation system
• Drying unit
• Yarn separator and its platform
• Headstock
• Adjustable reed
• Beam winding system
• Beam pressing system
• Drive
• PIV boxes
• Control panel
• Automatic speed and moisture control system
• Length measuring system
• Stretch control system
• Cooking unit
• Liquor storage

1. WARPER'S BEAM CREEL:

Creel is a very important portion of the sizing machine. The warper’s beams are mounted on
the creel. The beam mounting capacity of the creel depends upon the total number of ends

46
required in the weaver’s beam. Each beam rotates in between two rollers nips. The rollers are
able to move freely.

Fig: Warp beam creel

A braking system is attached to each pair of rollers. Beam tension is adjusted by loosening or
tightening the handwheel. The alignment of the beam is also done with help of this handwheel.
The yarn guiding rollers are fitted in the creel which guides the warp of each beam. Zigzag or
vertical creel is used in the sizing machine. Zigzag creel occupies more space than vertical
creel.

2. Sow box:

It is the most critical and important portion of the sizing machine. Mainly it is responsible for
size pick-up percentage in the warp during. The common parts and function of a sow box are
given below:

Fig: Sow box

• Stainless steel tub - the sow box has a stainless steel tub. The sizing liquor is filled in
this tub.

47
• Guide roller: it is mounted just before the immersion rollers, it guides the warp sheet
during the process.

• Immersion rollers: The warp sheet passes under the immersion rollers. Two pairs of
immersion rollers are used in a sow box, immersion rollers help to immerse the warp
sheet into the sizing liquor. The warp sheet first passes under one pair of immersion
rollers then between the nip of stainless steel and squeezing rollers. Now warp sheet again
passes under another pair of immersion rollers and finally warp sheet passes between the
nip of other stainless steel and squeezing rollers.

Stainless steel rollers: There are two stainless steel rollers in a sow box. Its function is to lift
sizing liquor and to apply it on the yarn surface. When a very low amount of size pick-up needs,
only stainless steel rollers are used to apply the sizing liquor on the yarn surface. The yarn is
not immersed into the sizing liquor in case of a very low size pick-up.

• Squeezing rollers: When the warp immerses into the sizing liquor, it has an excess
amount of sizing liquor with it. There is a need to eliminate this excess amount of sizing
liquor from the warp. The warp coming out of immersion rollers passes between the nips
of the squeezing roller, which is mounted just over the stainless steel roller. Two
squeezing rollers are used in a sow box. The squeezing roller applies the pressure on the
warp sheet and eliminates the excess amount of sizing liquor from it.

• Perforated steam pipe: This is mounted in the circulation box or tub. It is perforated and
connected to the steam line. The main function of this perforated steam pipe is to
maintain the temperature of sizing liquor in the sow box. A steam valve is fitted in the
steam line which regulates the temperature of the sow box.

• Pneumatic cylinders: The pneumatic cylinders are fitted at both ends of squeezing
rollers. These cylinders perform up and down movement of squeezing rollers. The
squeezing pressure is maintained by these cylinders. The compressed air is supplied
continuously to these pneumatic cylinders.

• Pressure gauge: A pressure gauge is fitted between the pneumatic cylinders and the air
supply line. This pressure gauge reads the pressure during the process.

• Pressure regulator: An air pressure regulator is used to control the squeezing pressure.
By rotating the air regulator valve the squeezing can be increased or decreased according
to requirement.

• Temperature sensor: The temperature sensor is immersed in the sizing liquor. This
sensor senses the liquor temperature and sends the signal to the control panel.

8. Liquor circulation system

The main function is to perform the mixing of sizing liquor in the sow box and to prevent the
formation of a thick layer of sizing liquor in the sow box.

48
 Fig: Liquor circulation system

The circulation system mainly consists of a geared feeding pump. When the tub of sow box is
filled with sizing liquor, it begins to fall into the circulation box. The liquor from here passes
into the inlet of the feeding pump. The outlet of the pump is connected to a sow box. The
feeding pump continuously circulates the sizing liquor.

9. Drying unit

The main function of the drying unit is to dry the warp sheet after coming out of squeezing
rollers. The Teflon coated steam cylinders are used in the drying unit. The steam is supplied to
the drying cylinders which helps to heat the cylinder. When the wet warp sheet passes over the
heated surface of drying cylinders, the moisture present in the warp sheet is evaporated from it
and the warp sheet becomes dry. A main steam supply valve located in the main steam line can
start or stop the supply of steam in the whole drying unit. In the sizing machine,

Fig: drying unit

some drying cylinders are driven negatively. These cylinders are revolved due to warp
tension over the cylinder. The last three or four cylinders are driven positively. A steam trip is
mounted on each cylinder which releases an excess amount of steam pressure. The steam

49
valve fitted with each cylinder regulates steam pressure in the cylinder. The temperature
sensors fitted with each cylinder reads the temperature of the cylinder and send the signal to
the control panel.

10. Yarn separator and its platform

After the drying unit, a long platform is fitted just before the headstock of the machine. The
yarn separator brackets are mounted on this platform. The yarn separators are kept on these
brackets. The main function of the yarn separator is to separate the ends from each other. When
the dry warp sheet

Fig: lease rod for yarn separation

comes out from the drying unit, the ends are stuck to each other. The yarn separators are
inserted into the warp sheet in a definite sequence. The number of yarn separators depends
upon the number of warper’s beams to be used. The number of yarn separators is always one
short of a number of warper’s beams. The yarn separators are fixed on their brackets. The warp
sheet moves toward the headstock of the machine. This movement of the warp sheet helps to
separate the ends from each other.

11. Headstock

This portion of the machine is located at the last of the machine. It consists of a drag roller,
which is rubber-coated. It drags the warp sheet. There are two pressure rollers used to provide
sufficient grip of the drag roller on the warp. The warp sheet first passes over the pressure
roller, then it is passed under the drag roller.

50
 Fig: Headstock

The warp sheet again passes over another pressure roller. The pressure of these rollers is
controlled by pneumatic cylinders. These cylinders also help to lift upward the pressure rollers.
A metallic cover is mounted over the drag rollers which prevents to fall off any foreign material
between the pressure roller and the drag roller. A protection grid is mounted just in front of the
drag roller which protects the operator’s hand.

12. Adjustable reed

This reed is mounted just before the first pressure roller of the headstock. This is a zigzag reed.
It fixes the number of ends per inch in the weaver’s beam. This is an adjustable reed. Its width
can be increased or reduced within the tolerance limit. A mechanism attached to this reed
performs the adjusting of the action of this reed.

Fig: Adjustable Reed

A hand wheel is used to reduce or increase the reed width. The width can be adjusted by
rotating the hand wheel in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction. There is another mechanism
attached with this reed that helps to move it left and right direction.

VIII. Beam winding system

51
 When the warp sheet comes out of the drag roller, it is wound on the weaver’s beam. The pins
of beam adapters are inserted in the holes of the beam driving mechanism. The beam is driven
from one side. A winding motor transmit motion to a reduction gearbox, which is connected to
the beam driving shaft. The surface speed of the weaver’s beam is kept a little higher than that
of the surface speed of the drag roller. This speed difference maintains the tension on the warp
during beam winding.

IX. Beam pressing system

The beam pressing system mainly consists of a pair of pressure rollers, two pairs of conical
rollers, an iron beam and a pneumatic cylinder. The pneumatic cylinder is mounted in the trench
under the weaver’s beam. The piston of the pneumatic cylinder is connected to the iron beam.
A pair of conical rollers are fitted at each side of the iron beam. These conical rollers move
free on their pin and bearings. The beam pressing rollers mounted on these conical rollers.
When a machine is in operation, the pneumatic cylinder lifts the pressure rollers. The pressure
rollers touch the surface of the beam. When the air pressure in the pneumatic cylinder increases,
the pressure rollers start to press the beam. The air pressure in the pneumatic cylinder is
regulated by the air pressure regulator valve. The compactness of the beam is controlled by
pressing rollers. It also levels the surface of the warp beam. The pressure rollers perform other
work of beam loading and unloading.2

X. Drive

An electric motor is used to drive the machine. This motor transmits the motion to the reduction
gearbox. A vertical shaft is connected to the reduction gearbox. All the moving parts receive
the motion through this shaft by means of chain sprocket and gears. In modern sizing machines,
sow boxes, drying cylinders, drag rollers and beams are driven by individual motors. These
motors are controlled by individual A.C. drive. The speeds of all the sections are synchronized
accurately.

XI. PIV boxes

When the machine is driven by a vertical shaft, PIV gearboxes are used to vary the speed of
different sections. PIV boxes synchronize the speeds of various sections to each other. The sow
box, drying cylinder and drag rollers have PIV boxes to adjust their speeds. The PIV box
consists of a chain, two pairs of variable diameter toothed pulleys and a diameter adjusting
hand wheel.

Fig: PIV boxes

52
 The one flanged toothed pulleys connected to the gear transmission system and the other end
is connected through a chain sprocket to the receiving device. When the diameter of driver
pulleys is increased, the diameter of driven pulleys reduces simultaneously. Therefore the
speed of the motion receiving device is increased. When the diameter of the driver is reduced,
the speed of the motion receiving device is decreased. The diameter adjustment is achieved by
rotating the handwheel.

XII. Control panel

It is the electrical panel that controls all the electrical operations of the machine. There are
many electrical contactors, relays, and printed circuit boards used in this panel. These devices
switch on and off the supply according to signals received from various sensors located at
different parts of the machine.

XIII. Automatic speed and moisture control system:

This system is very important for the efficient and accurate working of the sizing machine. In
this system moisture percentage to have remained in the sized warp, the sheet is fed in the
system. The main steam valve is opened and the temperature of different drying cylinders is
adjusted manually. When the machine is running continuously, the speed of the machine varies
automatically according to the moisture percentage fixed in the system. The machine speed is
lowered to keep the moisture percentage constant when the steam pressure is reduced. When
the steam pressure increases, the speed of the machine also increases to keep the moisture
percentage constant.

XIV. Length measuring system

The machine is equipped with a digital length measuring meter. A metallic pin is mounted on
the flange of the pressure roller of the headstock. This pin passes just in front of the proximity
sensor during each rotation. Thus proximity sensor sends the signal of completion of each
rotation of the pressure roller to the digital meter. The diameter of the pressure roller is fed into
the digital meter. The digital meter converts the rotation into the metres. The required warp
length can also be fed into the meter. When the required warp length reaches completion, the
machine stops automatically. The operator cuts the beam and replaces it with a new one.

XV. Stretch control system

The ratio of difference of delivered length and feeding length to feeding length expressed in
the term of percentage is called stretch percentage. The stretch percentage always appears in
the display of the control panel. It ranges between 1 – 2 %. If it is not ranging between this
limit, the tension between the sow box and drying cylinder, the tension between the drying
cylinder and the drag roller is adjusted.

XVI. Cooking unit

This is a vessel in which the sizing liquor is cooked. This is made of stainless steel and is
capable to bear high pressure. A stirrer is fitted in the bottom of this vessel. This stirrer revolves
with the help of an electric motor. An airtight door is mounted on the top of the vessel which
is used to drop the sizing ingredients into this vessel. A water supply pipe is fitted in this
cooking vessel to supply the water in the vessel.

53
 Fig: Cooker

Steam is used to maintain the temperature in the vessel. A temperature meter and pressure
gauge are fitted in this cooking vessel to reed temperature and cooking pressure. Normally
the volume of the cooking vessel is 1000 litres. One inch height of the cooking vessel
contains 20 litres of the volume of liquor.

XVII. Liquor storage

A liquor storage vessel is used to store the cooking liquor. A stirrer is fitted to the vessel to stir
the liquor. Steam supply maintains the liquor temperature.

Fig: Liquor Storage

PRECAUTIONS OF SIZING PROCESS:

Following precautions should be taken during the sizing process:

❖ Tension on the beams, the viscosity of liquor, Stretch percentage should be as minimum
as possible.
❖ The alignment of beams should be done properly.
❖ Temperature of sow box should be 80 – 85 degrees Celsius.
❖ The condensation percentage of steam in the saw box should be determined. It should
be as minimum as possible.

54
 ❖ The level of sizing liquor in the saw box should be proper to maintain the continuous
circulation of liquor.
❖ The temperature of the first cylinder should be higher and the last cylinder should be
lower.
❖ Water eliminator in the steam line of the sow box should always be used.
❖ The squeezing pressure should be set properly to avoid an excessive amount of sizing
liquor.
❖ Moisture percentage in the sized warp sheet should be 8 – 9 % approx.
❖ Warp cover of 60 – 65 % in the warp sheet gives better sizing performance. If it is more
than this value double sow box should be used in the machine.
❖ Division of warp sheet into two parts before passes over the drying cylinder reduces
end breakage in the sizing process.
❖ The yarn separators should be inserted correctly and carefully. If it is inserted wrongly,
the end breakage rate and sticking ends are increased badly.
❖ The denting of ends should be done correctly, the cross ends in the dents of reed badly
increase the end breakage rate.
❖ The drag roller should be cleaned properly.
❖ The operator should not sit on the top cover of the drag roller with shoes on their feet.
❖ The operator should be used a table to reach the broken ends to repair them.
❖ When the broken end is repaired, it should be put in the same dent where it was before
breakage.
❖ The beam winding tension should be proper.
❖ Beamwidth should be set precisely. Improper adjustment of beam width results in the
form of loose or tight selvedges of the beam.
❖ The pressure of the beam pressure roller should be proper.

3.5.8 PROCESS CONTROL IN SIZING:

The process control programmed in the sizing process is a very important aspect. If it is not
followed properly and continuously, the quality and productivity are affected badly. The proper
monitoring and follow-up of the process control programmed greatly improve the quality and
productivity. The following points should be checked and controlled regularly as per schedule:

• SIZE RECIPES AND SIZE PICK-UP:

This is a very important factor in the sizing process. The selection of correct recipes plays a
decisive role in the quality of sizing. The quality parameters of warp yarn are tested before
making a selection of size recipes. Mainly a number of imperfections per kilometre of yarn
(thick places, thin places, neps, unevenness %), tensile strength, elongation at break and
R.K.M.( tenacity in grams per tex) are tested properly. The warp having poor tensile strength
needs more quantity of binders, the yarn having more thin places also need to increase more
binders in sizing liquor. Thus yarn properties directly affect the selection of sizing liquor

55
recipes. The size pick-up is also selected according to warp yarn properties. The poor yarn
needs more pick-up than strong yarn.
• PREPARATION OF SIZING LIQUOR:
The sizing liquor is prepared very carefully to achieve the best process performance. Every
step of the preparation of sizing liquor is performed properly and precisely. First of all the
required amount of water in litres is taken in the cooking vessel. It is measured accurately with
the help of a long graduated metallic scale in terms of inches then the volume of water in litres
is calculated according to the level of water. Now the required sizing ingredients according to
size recipes are weighed with the help of physical balance precisely. These ingredients are
added to water in a definite sequence. The adhesives are added first then binders are added into
the water. Other ingredients are mixed at last. The softener is added in the storage of sizing
liquor to avoid its evaporation. It should always be noted that the stirrer is moving continuously
during the period of liquor preparation. Now the cooking of liquor is carried out. When the
temperature reaches to definite point (135 degrees Celsius), the steam supply is stopped in the
vessel. The liquor is kept at this temperature for 1 to 1.5 hours then it is transferred into the
storage vessel. The viscosity of liquor is checked precisely, the concentration of liquor is
measured accurately before using the liquor. If there is found any deviation in parameters,
corrective steps are taken.

• SIZE PICK-UP PERCENTAGE:

The amount of sizing ingredients picked up by warp yarn expressed in the term of percentage
is called size pick-up. It is the most important factor in the sizing process. Required size pick-
up is decided according to yarn count, quality ends per inch and picks per inch in the fabric to
be bobbin. Poor and fine count yarn needs higher size pick-up. The less size pick-up than the
required amount causes higher-end breakage in the sizing and weaving while more size pick-
up than the required amount causes an increase in sizing cost and end breakage during sizing
too. There is not any method to check size pick-up on the spot accurately. The concentration
of sizing liquor is kept 2% less than the required size pick-up percentage. The squeezing
pressure is kept 0.5 to 1.0 kg per inch square. The strength of the sized warp is judged manually
by breaking the end. The slippage of fibres in the yarn during breaking is seen. If there is
minimum slippage of fibres after breaking the sized end the quality of the sized warp is
supposed to be better quality. The size pick up is analysed in the laboratory by desizing the
warp yarn. This method is not much reliable. The most reliable method of analysis of size pick-
up is to find the weight of all empty warper’s beam and with warp yarn thus the weight of warp

56
before sizing is obtained. Now the weight empty weaver’s beam is found. The weight of the
weaver’s beam is found after sizing with sized warp yarn. The weight of a sized warp is found.
The size pick-up % is calculated as follow:

• STRETCH PERCENTAGE:
The elongation in the warp yarn occurred during sizing expressed in the term of percentage is
called stretch percentage. It is kept as low as possible in the sizing process. if it increases more
than the limit, it is too dangerous to the warp yarn. It should be ranged between 1 – 2%. The
setting of warp tension between different parts of the machine is performed accurately to
minimise the stretch percentage. It is calculated just after the sizing of 100 – 200 metres of
warp. If the value of it is found more than the limit, the tension between different parts of the
machine is reduced to control the stretch percentage. The strength percentage is calculated as
follow:

• Moisture content: Moisture content in the warp after sizing is necessary. If a sized
warp has less moisture, there will be much end breakage during weaving. If it contains
more moisture, there will be excess end breakage during the sizing process. The value
of moisture content in the sized warp ranges between 7 – 9 %.
• Quality of beam: The quality of the beam depends on the extent of the required sizing
parameters during the process. If all the required parameters are achieved precisely and
successfully, the best quality sized beam results. Minimum end breakage, stretch
percentage, correct size pick-up, moisture content, give improved quality of the sized
beam. If the machine stops repeatedly due to any reason, the quality of the sized beam
is affected. The variation in steam supply pressure results in the form of poor drying of
warp which causes warp breakage. The surface of the cylinder catches a layer of sizing
liquor, which goes with the warp and causes end breakage.
• Machine speed: The speed of the sizing machine depends upon the collective
achievement of various sizing parameters. The steam supply, size pick-up, viscosity of
sizing liquor, stretch percentage, moisture content, quality of warper’s beam, sizing
operator skill and quality of warp yarn to be sized are the factors that directly influence
the speed of the sizing machine.

VARIOUS SIZING FAULTS, CAUSES AND THEIR REMEDIES:

57
The various kinds of sizing faults and their causes are given below:

• SHORT ENDS: When the broken end is wrapped on the warper’s beam, stainless steel
roller, drying cylinder or drag roller, the short end results in the sized beam. The
wrapping of the end mainly occurs due to the un-mend warp end in the warping. This
fault can be controlled up to a maximum extent by controlling short ends in the warper’s
beam.
• STICKING ENDS: When there is high-end breakage in the sizing, the broken ends
become out of yarn separators. These ends lie without separation in the beam. These
broken ends stick to each other. This is a very serious fault in the sizing process. The
sticking ends can be controlled by reducing end breakage up to the optimum level. It is
necessary to control all the parameters related to end breakage.
• SAGGING ENDS: The ends in the sized beam having less tension than normal are
called sagging ends. Sagging ends occur due to uneven tension on the ends in the
warper’s beam. The sagging ends can be avoided by putting equal warp tension on each
end.
• CUT MARKS: When the broken end is wrapped on the squeezing roller, stainless steel
roller or drag roller, the pressure at that particular place on the warp sheet increased,
which causes cut marks in the warp sheet. Any uneven surface of stainless steel roller,
squeezing roller or drag roller also cause cut marks in the sized beam.
• SIZING LIQUOR MARKS: When the machine stops for a long time to repair any
problem, deep size marks occur in the beam. These are objectionable marks that also
appear on the fabric surface. The warp ends are displaced from their position. When
there is a need to stop the machine for long period, the machine is inched after regular
intervals of a short period to prevent deep size marks. If the inching of the machine is
not possible, the size marks are washed with water before drying.
• UNEVEN SIZE PICK-UP: Size pick-up is always even throughout the width of the
warp sheet. If there is a difference in warp pick-up between the middle and edges of the
warp sheet, this is called uneven size pick-up. There may be two causes of uneven size
pick-up. One cause is the difference between squeezing pressure of the left and right
sides of the roller due to improper working of the pneumatic cylinder. The second
reason is the different diameters of stainless steel roller and squeezing roller between
middle and edges. When the machine is worked, the extreme edges of these rollers are
left unused. The middle portion of these rollers is rubbed into the yarn and the diameter

58
 of these rollers is reduced gradually in the middle portion. Thus the diameter of edges
remains unchanged and the diameter in middle is reduced beyond the tolerance limit.
Uneven squeezing pressure results on the warp sheet so that uneven size pick-up results.
To avoid this fault, the working of the pneumatic cylinder should be check regularly.
The grinding of stainless steel roller and squeezing roller should be carried out when
the diameter difference between the middle and edges becomes beyond the tolerance
limit.
• OVER DRYING: Over drying of warp sheet enables the moisture content in the sized
warp sheet to be too low. It creates excessive-end breakage in weaving. To prevent this
fault, the sizing speed should be selected precisely and increase if needed. When there
is no possibility to increase the machine speed, the steam pressure in the drying cylinder
should be reduced.
• UNDER DRYING: If the sized warp sheet contains more moisture percentage than the
standard amount, this is called under drying. It causes end breakage in sizing and creates
the possibility of bacteria development while the sized warp beam remains unused.
• STREAKS IN BEAM: When the distribution of ends in the beam is not even the
streaks in the beam result. It occurs due to uneven denting of warp ends in the reed.
• LOOSE SELVEDGES: when the beam width is slightly greater than the reed width,
the selvedges of the beam become loose. It creates tension problems in weaving.
• TIGHT SELVEDGES: When the beam width is slightly less than the reed width, the
beam selvedges become tight and end breakage on the selvedges results.
• LOOSE WINDING TENSION: If winding tension is less than required, the beam
becomes loose and results in the form of warp tension variation in weaving.
• HIGH WINDING TENSION: When the winding tension is more than required, the
beam becomes more compact. The yarn losses its elongation and results in the form of
high-end breakage in weaving.
• CUT SELVEDGES: Cut selvedges occur due to the rough edges of the weaver’s beam
flanges. To avoid this problem, the edges of the flanges should be smooth.

DATA BLOCK CALCULATION

TSUDAKOMA SIZING MACHINE -1

1. B/S tension (kg)/s. box =total ends x 0.35/ne

2. Take up tension in kg = total ends x 1.1/ne

59
Example-
Count =40 Ne
Total no of ends=8248

1. B/S tension kg/S.Box = 8248 x 0.35/40 = 72

2. Take tension in kgs = 8248 x 1.1/40 = 226
3. Squeeze pressure
COUNT PRESSURE
20 Slow 5KN
Fast 13 KN
30 Slow 5 KN
Fast 12 KN
40 Slow 5 KN
Fast 12 KN
50 Slow 5 KN
Fast 11 KN
60 Slow 5 KN
Fast 11 KN

DATA BLOCK CALCULATIONS

SUCKER MULLER MACHINE-02 & 03

• Tension (N) = Gms/mtrs x factor x 1.15

• Gms /mtrs = Total no.ends/Metric Count
• Metric Count= Ne x 1.693

FACTORS DIRECT WARPING SECTIONAL WARPING

Let off tension 7 6
Positive feed stretch 2.5 2
Wet zone stretch NA NA
Dry split tension 14 14
Winding tension 16 16
Beam tension Wdg tension +100 Wdg tension +100

Example:

Count - 40Ne
Nm count – 40 x 1.693 = 67.72
Total no. ends = 8248
Gms/mtrs = 8248/67.72 = 122
FACTORS DIRECT WARPING SECTIONAL WARPING
Let off tension 122*7*1.15=982 122*6*1.15=841N
Positive feed 122*2.5*1.15=350 122*2*1.15=281N
stretch

60
 Wet zone stretch NA NA
Dry split tension 122*14*1.15=1941N 122*14*1.15=1961N

Winding tension 122*16*1.15=2241 122*16*1.15=2241 N

Beam tension 2241+100=2341 2241+100=2341 N

Squeeze pressure

COUNT PRESSURE
20 7m/min 5KN
60m/min 13 KN
30&40 7m/min 5 KN
60m/min 12 KN
50&60 7m/min 5 KN
60m/min 11 KN
45PC/CVC 7m/min 5 KN
60m/min 12 KN

MAINTENANCE OF SIZING MACHINE

DAILY CHECK POINTS ON TSUDOKOMA SIZING MACHINE

❖ Any abnormal noise on rotating parts

❖ Chain condition &check for jerk
❖ Size circulation pump working &leakage
❖ Split rod movement and leakage
❖ Beam drive check pin condition
❖ Steam ,air, size &oil leakage
❖ Steam pressure
WEEKLY CHECK POINTS
❖ Waxing roller & tank cleaning ,head stack clg
❖ All greasing point greasing ,all lubrication points lubrication
❖ Moisture sensor roller & shaft cleaning
❖ Head stack cleaning
❖ Comb cleaning &up down support lubrication
❖ All motor cleaning & fan condition cleaning

MONTHLY CHECK POINTS

❖ Drag roller condition
❖ Beam pressure roller condition
❖ Beam pressure roller travers roller condition
❖ Beam pressure roller travers roller bearing condition
❖ Coil spring condition
❖ Beam clamping de clamping arbar screw condition
❖ V belt condition
❖ Chain condition
❖ Beam drive pin & holder condition
❖ Gear box oil level
61
 DRAWING IN
The drawing-in process comes just after the preparation of the weaver’s beam. The weaver’s
beam is obtained from sectional warping or sizing. The drawing-in process mainly consists of
two processes. The first process is called drafting and the second process is called denting. It
is mostly performed manually but in large scale textile industries, automatic drawing-in
machines are used, where more productivity is required. When the drop wires with closed D
are used, the ends are drawn through the D of drop wires before the heald eye. The drawing-in
process is applied for the execution of a new fabric design on the loom. When the fabric design
is repeated regularly, the warp tying (knotting) process is applied to change a weaver’s beam.
The tying process is done manually or with the help of the knotting machine.

Three machines are placed in Drawing-in section where drawing process is done.
1. Staubli delta 110
2. Staubli Safir S80
3. Staubli safir S40

Fig: Staubli Delta 110 Fig: Staubli S80

Fig: Staubli S40

62
AIRJET LOOM

WEAVE DRAWING SELVEDGE

1/1dyed 1,2,3,4 1-2
2/1twill 3frame 1,2,3 2-4
2/1twill 6frame 1,2,3,4,5,6 5-7
3/1 drill 1,2,3,4 5-6
2/2 twill 1,2,3,4 1-3
4/1 satin 1,2,3,4,5 6-7
2/2 matt(30s-60s) 1,2,3,4(2 ends/healdeye) No selvedge
2/2matt(10s-30s) 1,2,3,4(1 end /healdeye) No selvedge
Oxford (30-60s) 1,2,3,4(2ends/healdeye) 1-2
Oxford (10s-30s) 1,2,3,4(1end/healdeye) 1-3

RAPIER LOOM
WEAVE DRAWING SELVEDGE
2/1twill (6 frame) 1,2,3,4,5,6 1-2 extra frame
3/1 drill 1,2,3,4 1-2 extra frame
2/2 twill 1,2,3,4 1-3
4/1satin 1,2,3,4,5 1-2 extra frame
2/2 matt (30s-60s) 1,2,3,4 No selvedge
(2ends/healdeye)
2/2 matt(10s-30s) 1,2,3,4(1end /healdeye) No selvedge
Oxford (30s-60s) 1,2,3,4(2ends/heald No selvedge
eye)
Oxford(10s-30s) 1,2,3,4(1ends/ No selvedge
healdeye)

MAINTENANCE OF AUTO DRAWING MACHINE

❖ Weekly maintenance
❖ Reed carriage cleaning
❖ Heald magazine cleaning
❖ Fork thread eye centering
❖ Drop wire separation unit cleaning
❖ Drawing hook & punched strip condition check

63
 LOOM SHED

Loom is a very necessary part for weaving. Loom is a machine or device which is used
for producing woven fabric.

The conversion of warp sheet into fabric by interlacing with weft yarn requires the basic
operations to be carried out on loom in a specific order. It involves the primary motions,
secondary motions and the stop motions.

LOOM HAS THREE TYPES OF MOTION:

A. Primary motion
B. Secondary motion
C. Tertiary motion or Stop motion

A. PRIMARY MOTIONS OF LOOM-

The primary loom motions include the following three operations:

1. SHEDDING:- The process of making shed is called shedding. It is the process of separating
the warp yarn into two layers to form a tunnel which is called shed, is known as shedding.

2. PICKING:- The method of passing the weft threads traversely through warp yarn is called
picking.

3. BEAT UP:- The process in which yarns are sent to the fell of the cloth is called beat up.

64
These operations occur in a given sequence and their precise timing in relation to one another
is of extreme importance.

B. SECONDARY MOTIONS OF LOOM

The secondary motions facilitate the weaving of fabric in a continuous way. These include:

1. LET OFF: This motion provides warp sheet to the weaving area at the required rate and
under constant tension by unwinding it from weaver’s beam

2. TAKE-UP: This motion draws fabric from the weaving area at a uniform rate to
produce the required pick spacing and wind it onto a roller.

C. TERTIARY MOTION OR STOP MOTIONS OF LOOM:

Tertiary motion is not necessary for fabric production. But these motions are used in the interest
of quality and productivity; stopping the loom immediately in case of some problem. The
tertiary motions are:
1. Warp stop motion.
2. Weft stop motion.

The warp stop motion will stop the loom in case any warp yarn breaks, avoiding excessive
damage to the warp threads. Similarly weft stop motion will come into action in the absence of
weft yarn, and stop the loom. Loom motion controls the fabric production. By using these
motion weavers can produce different types of fabrics.

65
 LOOM SHED MSML-1

AIRJET

TSUDAKOMA 9100 TOYOTA 710 TSUDAKOMA ZAX-9100 DORNIER AIRJET

(28 LOOM) (54 LOOM) (114 LOOM) (28 LOOM)

2 COLOR 2 COLOR 2 COLOR (30 LOOM) 6 COLOR

7 HEALD SHAFT 7 HEALD SHAFT 4 COLOR (72 LOOM) 7 HEALD SHAFT

CAM SHEDDING CAM SHEDDING 6 COLOR (12 LOOM) CAM SHEDDING

7 HEALD SHAFT

CAM SHEDDING

66
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF TSUDAKOMA

MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER Tsudakoma

MODEL ZAX 9100

YEAR July 2005

HEALD CAPACITY 10

RUNNING HEALD 4

REED WIDTH 190cm

SHEDDING Cam shedding

PICKING Jet of air

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 2 colour

CATCH CORD 8

MAXIMUM SPEED 1100m/min

RUNNING SPEED 700-850m/min

67
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF TOYOTA 710

MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER Toyota 710

MODEL JA4S-190TE-EF-1710

YEAR 2012

HEALD CAPACITY 16

RUNNING HEALD 4

REED WIDTH 190cm

SHEDDING Cam shedding

PICKING Jet of air

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 2 colour

MAXIMUM SPEED 1000m/min

RUNNING SPEED 700-850m/min

68
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF DONIER AIRJET

MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER DONIER AIRJET

MODEL AWS 6/S C

YEAR 2017

HEALD CAPACITY 16

RUNNING HEALD 4 or 6

REED WIDTH 210cm

SHEDDING Dobby

PICKING Jet of air

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 6 colour

MAXIMUM SPEED 1000m/min

RUNNING SPEED 900m/min

69
 LOOM SHED MSML-2

AIRJET RAPIER

TOYOTA 810 TSUDAKOMA ZAX-9200i

(114 LOOM) (114 LOOM)

4 COLOR 4 COLOR
6 COLOR 6 COLOR
8 COLOR 8 COLOR
E SHEDDING DOBBY SHED

PICANOL GAMMAX DORNIER RAPIER PICANOL OPTIMAX-I ITEMA RAPIER

(FLEXIBLE RAPIER) (RIGID RAPIER) (FLEXIBLE RAPIER) (FLEXIBLE RAPIER)
4 COLOR 4 COLOR 8 COLOR 8 COLOR
6 COLOR 6 COLOR DOBBY SHEDDING 12 COLOR
8 COLOR DOBBY SHEDDING DOBBY & JACQUARD
DOBBY SHEDDING

70
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF TOYOTA 810
MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER Toyota 810

MODEL JA8S-210ES-EF-T810

YEAR 2018

HEALD CAPACITY 16

RUNNING HEALD 4 or 6

REED WIDTH 190cm, 210 cm, 230cm

SHEDDING E-shed

PICKING Jet of air

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 4,6,8 colour

CATCH CORD 12

MAXIMUM SPEED 1000m/min

RUNNING SPEED 700-850m/min

71
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF TSUDAKOMA ZAX 9200i
MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER TSUDAKOMA ZAX 9200i

MODEL ZAX 9200i

YEAR 03/2018

HEALD CAPACITY 16

RUNNING HEALD 6

REED WIDTH 190cm

SHEDDING Dobby shedding

PICKING Rapier

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 4,6,8 colour

CATCH CORD 12

MAXIMUM SPEED 900m/min

RUNNING SPEED 800m/min

72
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF PICANOL GAMMAX
MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER PICANOL GAMMAX

MODEL GAMMAX 6R

HEALD CAPACITY 16

RUNNING HEALD 4 or 6

REED WIDTH 190cm

SHEDDING Dobby shedding

PICKING Jet of air

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 4,6,8 colour

CATCH CORD 10 (each side)

MAXIMUM SPEED 500m/min

RUNNING SPEED 350m/min

73
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF PICANOL OPTIMAX-i
MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER PICANOL OPTIMAX - i

MODEL OPTIMAX 8R

HEALD CAPACITY 24

RUNNING HEALD 8

REED WIDTH 210cm

SHEDDING Dobby shedding

PICKING Rapier

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 8 colour

CATCH CORD 10 (each side)

MAXIMUM SPEED 700m/min

RUNNING SPEED 600m/min

74
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF DONIER RIGID RAPIER
MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER DONIER RIGID RAPIER

MODEL PTS RIGID

YEAR 2007

HEALD CAPACITY 20

RUNNING HEALD 6

REED WIDTH 190cm

SHEDDING Dobby shedding

PICKING Rapier

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 4,6 colour

MAXIMUM SPEED 400m/min

RUNNING SPEED 300m/min

75
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF ITEMA
MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MANUFACTURER ITEMA

MODEL R9500

YEAR 2018

HEALD CAPACITY 20

RUNNING HEALD 9

REED WIDTH 230cm

SHEDDING Dobby & Jacquard

PICKING Rapier

BEATING Crank shaft

NO OF ACCUMULATOR USED 8,12 colour

CATCH CORD 18

MAXIMUM SPEED 600m/min

RUNNING SPEED 550m/min

76
FUNCTION OF PARTS OF AIRJET WEAVING MACHINE:
1. WEFT PACKAGE: It supplies the weft yarn. It is in the form of a cone that is kept
stationary on a creel.
2. YARN GUIDE: It is located just after the weft package it guides the weft yarn in a
proper direction.
3. TENSIONER: Additive disc type tensioner is used for weft insertion which maintain
proper tension in the weft yarn.
4. WEFT BREAK SENSOR: It is an electric sensor which detect any weft break in the
region between weft package and accumulator and automatically stop the loom in case
any weft break.
5. ACCUMULATOR: It is a device which fitted between weft package and main nozzle
that unwinds a predetermined length of weft from the package and store it in the form
of no. of coils on a cylindrical drum. This yarn then fed in to insertion device.
6. STOPPER: It is an electronically controlled electromagnetic device integrated along
with the accumulator. Its function in releasing the yarn at starts of insertion and stop it
at the end of insertion.
7. BALLOON BREAKER: It is fitted just after accumulator, its function is to separate
the balloon formation. So as to reduce as ballooning tension as well as minimize the
tension fluctuation. It is generally used for coarser yarn.
8. FIXED MAIN NOZZLE: Its function is to form the air jet from compressed air with
the required velocity and acceleration characteristics and project it in a proper direction
in to air guide channel.
9. RELAY NOZZLE OR SUB NOZZLE: Fitted in series along the sley. It creates an
additional air flow in the direction of air jet. So as to compensate the loss of air velocity.
10. PROFILE REED: Here the reed is profiled. So as to form a guide channel which guide
the air jet as well as weft during insertion.
11. WEFT CUTTER: It is cam operated device fitted in the region between the moveable
main nozzle and the reed at picking side. Its function is to gripping and cutting the weft
after every pick at around beat-up.
12. AIR GUIDE CHANNEL: It is formed on the reed. Its function is guiding and
confining the free expansion of the air jet in order to maintain the velocity over larger
distance as possible.
13. WEFT DETECTOR: It is an optical device fitted at the end of reed at the receiving
side. Its function is to check the arrival of weft at the receiving side. In case of late
arrival or miss pick, then it sense and automatically stopped the loom.
14. STRETCH NOZZLE: Located just beside the weft detector. It supplement the effect
of enhanced stretching action on the weft by the closely spaced relay nozzle at the end
of insert ion. So as to prevent the chance of weft recoiling due to action of stopper.
15. SELVEDGE CUTTER: Located at the receiving side. It is an electronically operated
mechanical device which cut the weft yarn extending between fabric and auxiliary
selvedge. So as to separate the auxiliary selvedge which is passed out as a waste.

77
 INSPECTION & FOLDING

What is a defect?
➢ Frailty that prevents an item from being complete, desirable, effective, safe or of merit
or makes it to malfunction or fail in its purpose.
➢ An imperfection that impairs worth or utility
Fabric defect

➢ Fabric defects are abnormalities in the fabric that hinders their acceptability by the
customer.
➢ Defects in woven fabric can be a result of yarn imperfections, incorrect weaving process
or errors in the finishing process. They can be categorized into 3 groups: yarn related
defects, defects occurring in warp direction and defects in the filling direction.

YARN RELATED DEFECTS:

1. MIXED END/ THICK END: It can be identified as the warp end having larger diameter
than the other warps.

78
2. SLUB OR SLUG: Abnormally thick place occurring in the yarn that affects the fabric’s

appearance.

WARP DIRECTION DEFECTS:

1. REEDY FABRIC MARKS: Appearance of fine cracks across the fabric between warp end
groups which resemble denting pattern in the reed.

79
3. WARP STREAKS: Warp streaks can be identified as the warp way stripes of shade

variations occurring between groups of threads.

4. MISDRAWS / WRONG DRAW: Design or stripes in the final fabric being damaged

due to drawing of incorrect ends.

80
5. BROKEN / MISSING END: It can be identified as the space created in the fabric when

a yarn partially or completely is missing from the fabric

81
WEFT DIRECTION DEFECTS:
1. STARTING MARKS: Thick or thin places occurring in fabric due to pick density

variation when starting the loom, causing starting marks.

1. FILLING/WEFT BARS:

82
2. Broken Pick: Broken Pick defect can be identified as the weft inserted to only a partial

portion of the pick.

3. BROKEN PATTERN: This defect occurs on drop box looms for fabrics that have

patterns. If the sequence of weft yarn colour breaks or pattern width of particular colour

is distorted, broken pattern defect appears.

83
4. DOUBLE PICK: This defect happens when more than one pick is inserted in the single

shed.

5. GOUT: Appearance of foreign matter or contamination like lint, waste, etc woven into

the fabric.

84
 6. SLOUGHING OFF: When a bunch of or coil of yarn slips from the pirn during

weaving then thick yarn bunches or coils appear on the fabric.

8. SNARL: When yarn doubles back on itself especially because of high twist yarn, then

snarling appears. It can be found randomly spread across fabric width or only in a region nearby

the selvedge.

85
GREY INSPECTION

The folding department is made to check the fabric once weaving is

completed. It focuses on finding out faults in fabrics and grade it according to no
of faults. If fault present in fabric is due to machine cause or worker cause then
immediate feedback is sent to the production department at concern stage.

Type of machine Make No of machines

Fabric inspection cum Lakashmi 2

pillng

Fabric inspection cum Gayatritex 21

roll

Fabric inspection cum Yash textile 1

roll

Fabric rolling Gayatri tex 1

Butta cutting machine Vishwakarma 3

86
 Shearing machine Vishwakarma 1

Packing machine Gayatri 2

Fabric Inspection
4-point inspection system is used for grading the fabric. this method is made by
American Society for Testing and Material (ASTM D5430)

Defect size (inches) Penalty point Flagging

0.1” to 3” 1 No

3.0” to 6” 2 No

6.0” to 9” 3 Yes

9.0” and above 4 Yes

87
Fabric Gradation – Fabric is graded as ‘1’ if points are less than following
standards and That roll is okay for dispatch and if exceeds then fabric is rejected
and graded as ‘4’

TYPE OF FABRIC POINTS POINTS/100

FABRIC WIDTH (CM) /100LINEAR SQUARE
METER METER

Total No of Total No of
points major points major
points points

NORMAL 158-177 24 3 13.7 1.7

FABRIC

STRETCH 178-192 24 3 12.5 1.6

FABRIC

STRETCH FABRIC 193-208 24 3 11.5 1.4

WITH WIDER
WIDTH

88
 DEFECT

Spinning Warp Wise Weft Wise Machine

Warp Slub Missing End Missing Pick Starting Mark

Weft Slub Double End Bent Pick Crack

Neps Slack End Short Pick Temple Cut

Wrong
Knots Double Pick Let Off Mark
Denting

Wrong
Moire Effect Broken Pick Take Up Mark
Drawing In

High /Low Weft

Warp loops Oily Stain
Twist Distortion

Lycra Rupture Warp float Weft overlap Reed Cut

Yarn Variayion Nozzle Mark

Bump Mark

89
 UTILITY SECTION
Utility provide services to industry processes. In MSML plant utility section is used to produce
steam and compressed air.

UTILITY SECTION
UTILITY SECTION IS THE DEPARTMENT WHICH SUPPLY THE

ELECTRICITY STEAM COMPRESSED AIR WATER

STEAM
➢ Steam is the vaporized state of water which contains heat energy and transfer that energy
into a variety of processes in textile industry.
➢ Boilers are the common installation in utility plants to produce steam.

APPLICATIONS IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY:

In textile industry Steam is used for fibre production, weaving , dyeing , drying , printing,
heating the equipment and maintaining the temperature of system.

COMPRESSED AIR
➢ Compressed air is a form of stored energy that is used to operate machinery,
equipment, or processes.
➢ Air compressor, used to produce compressed air.

APPLICATION IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

➢ Compressed air is used mainly as a motive force to actuate the process control valves
and machines in a textile mill.
➢ It is also used for loom jet weaving, spinning, texturizing.

AIR COMPRESSOR
A compressor is a machine that is used to increase the pressure of a gas.

➢ Generation of compressed air – 21000 CFM(cubic feed per minutes)

➢ Compressed air supply in CPDC department is 300CFM
➢ Compressed air supply in preparatory department is 300-400 CFM
➢ Compressed air supply in Loom shed – 1 department is 6000 CFM
➢ Compressed air supply in Loom shed – 2 department is 3500 CFM

Compressed air power requirement – 1200KV per compression

90
 Fig: Air Dryer
No of Air Dryer machine - 5

Fig: Centrifugal Compressor

No of Centrifugal Compressor machine - 5

Fig: Screw Compressor

No of Screw Compressor machine - 5

91
 MARKETING DEPARTMENT

Marketing departments are critical to a company’s profit and growth because of their role in

finding, attracting, and retaining customers. Without robust marketing efforts, potential

customers may find it difficult to learn about your products or services. Additionally, your

company may not be able to discern the best target customer base to advertise products, and

the general public would come to their own conclusions about your brand overall.

From managing the company’s brand and image to promoting upcoming products or events,

here’s what you need to know about marketing teams.

WHAT DOES A MARKETING DEPARTMENT DO?

A marketing department drives the promotional engine of a business. It is responsible for

increasing brand awareness overall, while also driving potential and recurring customers to a

company’s products or services. Therefore, a marketing team is a vital part of a company’s

structure because it should be the team that brings in business, retains it, and helps your

company grow and achieve financial and organizational goals.

To that end, a marketing department is responsible for many tasks, and a company’s marketing

department structure will vary depending on the volume and scope of those tasks.

KEY MARKETING DEPARTMENT RESPONSIBILITIES

Marketing activities can vary widely, companies often run the risk of the marketing department

becoming a catch-all for tasks that don’t necessarily have another place to land. However, in a

company with a well-defined marketing department structure, the functions of the marketing

department will most likely include, but aren’t limited to, the following:

• OUTLINING MARKET STRATEGY: The head of the marketing department, whether

the CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER or the vice president for marketing, will work with

senior marketing staff to set the marketing strategy for the company. The marketing strategy

will then provide direction to other members of the marketing team who will carry out the
relevant tasks.

92
• ORGANIZING MARKET RESEARCH: Market research can be conducted in-house, where

members of the marketing team conduct surveys and analyze industry data to ascertain which

segments of the market should be targeted. Market research can also involve marketing team

members directly speaking to customers or potential customers or holding focus groups.

Finally, market research is sometimes conducted by a third party, and the marketing department

would be responsible for analyzing this information and making market decisions based upon

it.

• ASSISTING WITH PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT: Because marketing teams have an

intimate understanding of the target market, potential customer base, and competitor offerings,

they often assist the product development department. The marketing department will be able

to inform product designers about gaps in the market and will be able to relay feedback from

customers.

• STRATEGIZING AND SPEARHEADING PROMOTION: Promotion is one of the

elements most people would assume that a marketing department handles, and they would be

correct. Strategizing and spearheading promotional opportunities — whether digital, print, pay-

per-click, or earned media — is an integral part of a marketing department’s responsibilities.

• MANAGING AND PLANNING EVENTS: Within the remit of most marketing departments

is the planning and management of a range of events, from webinars designed to generate leads

to product launches that will garner publicity.

• SUPPORTING SALES AND DISTRIBUTION TEAMS: Marketing departments don’t

carry out their work in a vacuum. Instead, everything they do affects other parts of the

company. One of the key responsibilities of a marketing department is to support sales and

distribution teams in order to ensure these areas are prepared for the marketing activity they

plan and execute. This might mean prepping the distribution team ahead of a planned

promotional activity, checking inventory before coordinating a marketing campaign around a

product, or qualifying leads using demographic and behavioural data to help sales teams sell
more effectively.

93
 PROJJECT DESCRIPTION

TO STUDY THE COMPARISON BETWEEN SECTIONAL WARPING

MACHINE OF KARL MAYER (NOM)& BENNINGER (BEN-TRONIC)

OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT

❖ To observe at which extent the productivity is increased with the latest

NOM technology
❖ To observe at what level the manual intervention is reduced with the
NOM Technology
❖ To check overall benefits

94
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF KARL MAYER (NOM)

SPECIFICATION MACHINE NO – 11

MANUFACTURER KARL MAYER

MODEL NOM

YEAR 2015

WORKING WIDTH 1500mm

COMPLETE WIDTH 2000mm

MAXIMUM WARPING SPEED 800m/min

ACTUAL WARPING SPEED 500m/min

BRAKE Hydraulic

DRIVE AC inventor drive

CREEL CAPACITY 320

TYPE OF TENSIONER Disc type

TYPE OF REED FLAT reed

TYPE OF CREEL H – type

VOLTAGE/FREQUENCY 400v/50Hz

95
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF BENNINGER BENTRONIC

SPECIFICATION MACHINE NO - 12

MANUFACTURER BENNINGER

MODEL Ben - Tronic

YEAR 2014

WORKING WIDTH 1800mm

FLANGE DIAMETER 1000mm

MAXIMUM WARPING SPEED 800m/min

ACTUAL WARPING SPEED 500m/min

BRAKE Hydraulic

DRIVE AC inventor drive

CREEL CAPACITY 720

TYPE OF TENSIONER Disc type

TYPE OF REED V reed

TYPE OF CREEL H - creel

VOLTAGE/FREQUENCY 400v/50Hz

96
FLOW CHART OF SECTIONAL WARPING OF KARL MAYER (NOM)
& BENNINGER BENTRONIC

CREEL

YARN GUIDE

TENSIONER

CERAMIC GUIDE

CERAMIC PIN

ELECTROMAGNETIC STOP MOTION

LEASE REED

MAIN REED

GUIDE ROLLER

SECTIONAL WARPING

BEAMING

97
FEATURES OF KARL MAYER (NOM) & BENNINGER BENTRONIC

❖ KARL MAYER NOV O MATIC (NOM) is the machine which caters SMALL

LENGTH of order in the range of 150-2000m

❖ It is equipped with automatic leasing system which is benefits in terms of

productivity, quality.

❖ Production in KARL MAYER NOM is more just because of automatic leasing which

saves the time and chances of breakage near the dent is reduced.

❖ BENNINGER BENTRONIC is the machine which caters SMALLER AS WELL AS

LONGER LENGTH of order

❖ In BENTRONIC the main feature is that it have more creel capacity than NOM so we

can take advantage of using more no of ends per repeat in a section

98
 TIME STUDY OF WARPING

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER (BENTRONIC)

MACHINE 500 500 500 500 500 500 500 500 500 500

SPEED (m/min)

CREEL 320 320 320 320 320 720 720 720 720 720

CAPACITY

CREEL USED 214 214 320 312 294 624 642 354 450 620

TOTAL ENDS 7192 7192 6278 7928 7690 7928 7192 6258 6258 5880

NO OF ENDS/ 214 214 320 312 294 624 642 354 450 520

REPEAT

NO OF 34 34 20 25 27 13 12 18 14 12

SECTION

WARPING 1640 503 1770 330 1265 1945 3880 4114 3520 4165

LENGTH (mtr)

TOTAL 55760 17102 35400 8250 34155 25285 46560 74052 49280 49980

WARPING

LENGTH (mtr)

SEVEN LEASE 10 10 10 10 10 6.6 6.6 6.6 6.6 6.6

LENGTH (mtr)

CROSS LEASE 8 8 8 8 8 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2

LENGTH (mtr)

99
 WARPING TIME

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER (BENTRONIC)

CREELING TIME 20 20 32 26 32 60 90 55 70 90

(min)

CREEL STAND 1 1 1 1 1 4 5 5 6 5

PLACING TIME

(min)

KNOTTING TIME 10 10 15 13 13 35 50 22 45 50

(min)

THREADING 3 3 3 3 3 5 5 5 5 5

TIME (min)

DENTING TIME 8 8 11 12 15 12 16 20 18 16

(min)

PATTERN 7 7 10 10 18 17 20 18 20 25

CHECKING TIME

(min)

SEVEN LEASE & 40 40 24 29 32 47 42 67 52 42

CROSS LEASE

(min)

BREAKAGE TIME 4 0 2 7 10 25 30 35 36 21

(min)

WARPING TIME 150 80 174 56 142 167 252 442 352 302

(min)

100
TOTAL TIME 203 129 248 128 234 325 468 602 552 514

REQUIRED (min)

BEAMING TIMING

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER (BENTRONIC)

BEAM SETTING 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15

TIME (min)

BEAMING 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 40 40

SPEED (m/min)

BEAMING 1640 503 1770 330 1265 1945 3880 4165 3520 4114

LENGTH (mtr)

BEAMING TIME 21 8 23 6 17 25 50 55 90 103

(min)

BEAMING 36 23 38 21 32 40 65 70 105 118

TOTAL TIMING

(min)

TOTAL TIME

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER (BENTRONIC)

TOTAL TIME 239 152 286 149 266 365 533 672 657 632

(WARPING +

BEAMING)

101
 TOTAL PRODUCTION PER DAY

➢ While using 320 Creel capacity of KARL MAYER (NOM) machine, the capacity ready

time 75% less as compared to BENNINGER BENTRONIC 720 Creel Capacity.

➢ Similarly Other functions such denting, knotting for new warp pattern is done while

machine is in running condition, which save approximately 20 min to 30 min downtime.

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER (BENTRONIC)

WARPING 1640 503 1770 330 1265 1945 3880 4114 3520 4165

LENGTH (mtr)

NO OF 34 34 20 25 27 13 12 18 14 12

SECTION

NO OF 214 214 320 312 294 624 642 354 450 520

ENDS/SECTION

TOTAL TIME 239 152 286 149 266 365 533 672 657 632

FOR 1 BEAM

TOTAL BEAM 6.02 9.47 5.03 9.66 5.41 3.94 2.71 2.14 2.19 2.27

PRODUCED

PER DAY

102
 BEAM PRODUCTION PER DAY

WARPING LENGTH (mtr)

6000
3880 4114 4165
3520
4000
1640 1770 1945
2000 1265
503 330
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
KARL MAYER M/C 1-5
BENNINGER M/C 6-10

TOTAL BEAM PRODUCED PER DAY

12
10
8
6
4
2
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
KARL MAYER M/C 1-5
BENNINGER M/C 6-10

103
 BENEFITS OF LEASING TIME

LEASING TIME KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER

BENTRONIC

7 LEASE & 2 CROSS 1.16 3.5

LEASE (min/section)

SEVEN LEASE AND CROSS LEASE

3.5
3
TIME IN MINUTE

2.5
2
1.5
1
0.5
0
1 2
KARL MAYER M/C -1 BENNINGER M/C -2

104
 CASE STUDY OF RUNNING SAME NO OF ENDS/REPEAT AND
WARPING LENGTH TO JUSTIFY THAT KARL MAYER (NOM)
PRODUCES MORE NO OF BEAM PER DAY AS COMPARED TO
BENNINGER BENTRONIC

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER

(BENTRONIC)

MACHINE SPEED (m/min) 500 500 500 500

CREEL CAPACITY 320 320 720 720

CREEL USED 320 320 320 320

TOTAL ENDS 7192 7928 7192 7928

NO OF ENDS/ REPEAT 320 320 320 320

NO OF SECTION 23 25 23 25

WARPING LENGTH (mtr) 1640 1770 1640 1770

TOTAL WARPING 37720 44250 37720 44250

LENGTH (mtr)

SEVEN LEASE LENGTH 10 10 6.6 6.6

(mtr)

CROSS LEASE LENGTH 8 8 5.2 5.2

(mtr)

105
 WARPING TIME

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER

(BENTRONIC)

CREELING TIME (min) 20 20 20 20

CREEL STAND PLACING 1 1 5 5

TIME (min)

KNOTTING TIME (min) 10 10 10 10

THREADING TIME (min) 3 3 3 3

DENTING TIME (min) 8 12 8 12

PATTERN CHECKING TIME 7 7 7 7

(min)

SEVEN LEASE & CROSS 27 29 81 88

LEASE (min)

BREAKAGE TIME (min) 4 4 15 15

WARPING TIME (min) 137 179 191 238

TOTAL TIME REQUIRED 190 236 259 310

(min)

106
 BEAMING TIME

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER

(BENTRONIC)

BEAM SETTING TIME 15 15 15 15

BEAMING SPEED (m/min) 80 80 80 80

BEAMING LENGTH (mtr) 1640 1770 1640 1770

BEAMING TIME (min) 21 23 21 23

BEAMING TOTAL TIMING 36 38 36 38

(min)

TOTAL TIMING

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER

(BENTRONIC)

TOTAL TIME 226 274 295 348

(WARPING + BEAMING)

107
 PRODUCTION PER DAY

PARAMETERS KARL MAYER (NOM) BENNINGER

(BENTRONIC)

WARPING LENGTH (mtr) 1640 1770 1640 1770

NO OF SECTION 23 25 23 25

NO OF ENDS/SECTION 320 320 320 320

TOTAL TIME FOR 1 BEAM 226 274 297 350

TOTAL BEAM PRODUCED 6.37 5.25 4.88 4.13

PER DAY

TOTAL BEAM PRODUCED PER DAY

7
6
5
NO OF BEAM

4
3
2
1
0
1 2 3 4
KARL MAYER M/C 1-2 BENNINGER M/C 3-4

108
 CASE STUDY OF TIMING – SEVEN LEASE & CROSS LEASE

SEVEN LEASE & CROSS LEASE TIMING

100
TIME IIN MINUTES

80
60 81 88
40
20
27 29
0
1 2 3 4
KARL MAYER 1-3 BENNINGER 2-4

Reduction time in leasing Reduction time in leasing

= 81-27/81x100 = 66.66% = 88-29/88x100 = 67.04%

66.66% of saving of time 67.04% of saving of time

during leasing during leasing

109
 CASE STUDY OF PRODUCTIVITY

TOTAL TIME REQUIRED FOR WARPING

400
TOTAL TIME IN MINUTES

350
300
250
200
295 348
150 274
100 226
50
0
1 2 3 4
KARL MAYER 1-3 BENNINGER 2-4

Reduction time in Reduction time in

productivity productivity
= 348-295/348x100
= 274-226/274x100 =17.51% = 15.22%

17.51% Productivity is 15.22% Productivity is

increased increased

CONCLUSION
With Installation of the NOM Machine we observed all below benefits:

❖ With installation of automatic leasing we can save a time of 66% to 68%

❖ With NOM we can achieve increase in productivity of 15% to 18%

❖ Production of NOM machine per day is increased as compared to BENTRONIC

❖ Chances of breakage is less in NOM due to automation

❖ Reduced manual intervention by increasing automation

❖ Reduced dyed Remnant with increased in no. of section

❖ Reduced manpower Deployment from re-winder by 3 per day (1 Re-winder/shift)

110