OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2023 VOL 33 • ISSUE 9 • $10

Here’s the ’Drille

FRESH TWISTS ON THE CHIC SUMMER STAPLE

HEAR HER ROAR

DANSKO PRESIDENT
KITTY BOLINGER
TALKS TACTICS

THIS JUST IN
GRUNGE IS GOOD

EURO REPORT
TREND HUNTING
AT MICAM

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FOP OCT NOV 2023.indd 2 10/7/23 4:02 PM
 Twisted X® is dedicated to creating comfortable, quality, and innovative footwear.
After ten years with over 1 million pairs sold, our “Original Driving Moc” still stands
out in the western industry as the original standard of comfort.
Explore over 550 styles in casual, work, western and outdoor markets at TwistedX.com.

Copyright © 2023 Twisted X Global Brands. All Rights Reserved.

FOP OCT NOV 2023.indd 1 10/12/23 8:20 AM

 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2023

EDITORIAL
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
Nancy Campbell
Trevett McCandliss
F E AT U R E S Creative Directors
Kathleen O’Reilly
Fashion Editor
10 Right On Rosemary O’Connell
Art Director
Kitty Bolinger, newly named
Kathy Passero
president of Dansko, is steering the
Editor at Large
company in all the right directions.
Mariah Walker
By Greg Dutter Style Director
Ann Loynd Burton
Contributing Editor
18 Seamless Sensibility
Melodie Jeng
Leading comfort brands are
Marcy Swingle
marrying style with technology. Contributing Photographers
By Greg Dutter
ADVERTISING
Kanna wedge with Noelle Heffernan
28 High Fiber braided strap; scallop Publisher
Chic espadrilles in muted tones are on suede platform by
Lizette Chin
the menu for Spring/Summer ’24. Beautiisoles. SVP/Group Publisher
By Kathleen O’Reilly PA G E Laurie Guptill

28 Production Manager
Kathy Wenzler
Circulation Director
Catherine Rosario
D E PA RT M E N T S Office Manager
Mike Hoff
Digital Director
4 Editor’s Note
6 This Just In: New York WAINSCOT MEDIA
Carroll Dowden
8 Scene & Heard Chairman
21 Trend Spotting: Chunky Sandals Mark Dowden
President & CEO
22 A Note to My Younger Self
Steven J. Resnick
26 Trend Spotting: Men’s Slip-ons Vice President & CFO

38 Shoe Salon
OFFICES
40 Last Shot
ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL
One Maynard Drive
Park Ridge, NJ 07656
Tel: (201) 571-2244
On cover: Diba True platforms with Ads: Noelle.Heffernan@
Dansko
knotted raffia strap. Wainscotmedia.com
metallic
Photography:
suede Trevett McCandliss; Editorial: Greg.Dutter@
styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department
sandals. Wainscotmedia.com
NYC; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly;
model: Ines Mambou-Missoumani/Q CIRCULATION
Management; hair and makeup: Nevio One Maynard Drive
Ragazzini/Next Artists; photo assistant: Park Ridge, NJ 07656
Eileen Viglietta; production assistant: Tel: (201) 571-2244
Olivia Mannarino. Circ@Wainscotmedia.com

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept
responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, PO Box 300, Lincolnshire, IL 60069-0300. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole
risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

2 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023

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 E D I TOR’S NOT E Meet the New Boss
The First Noelle
IT IS WITH great pleasure that I formally intro-
duce our new publisher, Noelle Heffernan. While
she is relatively new to our industry—having first
dipped her toe into our waters officially about
two years ago by working on select accounts
before being promoted to sales manager a year
ago—she has been a business associate of mine
for 13 years.
Thanks to my elephant-like tendencies,
I remember the very first days after she joined our company as an
account executive for our sister publication, Earnshaw’s, a 106-year-old
magazine that covers the childrenswear industry. This was back in the
days of office cubicles and employees toiling away at their desks five days
a week! You really got to know your coworkers, particularly in terms
of how they worked or, in some cases, didn’t. What
struck me about Noelle right away was that she worked.
Each day, I’d overhear snippets of her conversations
as she methodically worked the phones. She was
friendly, professional, informed, and determined.
There was never a whiff of (cheesy WKRP salesperson)
Herb Tarlek wafting over our shared cubicle wall.
What’s more, her conversations always focused on
what the magazine could do for the particular brand
on the other end of the phone. She never used a one-
pitch-fits-all approach, nor did she ever take a care-
less quick-sale approach. Noelle is all about building
long-term business relationships; many of hers have
blossomed into genuine friendships. That’s because
she truly wants what’s best for her clients, which is
also what’s best for the magazine. It’s a win-win busi-
Noelle Heffernan, publisher,
ness philosophy that is rare these days. Footwear Plus
It’s not surprising that Noelle’s extensive
resume is stacked with sales experience. Publishing stops prior to
Footwear Plus have included Primedia Business & Magazines (Catalog Age),
Fairchild Publications (WWD), and Business Journals Inc. (Accessories
Magazine). She is a seasoned publishing professional who has navigated
the alleged death of print and the social media-driven digital revolu-
tion. Since assuming the role of publisher of Earnshaw’s in 2011, she
has spearheaded the evolution of the publication to meet the changing
needs of that industry. While Noelle remains a steadfast believer in
the power of print, she knows digital can be layered on for a powerful
and exclusive mix of coverage. As a B2B publishing expert, Noelle
also knows that the quality of the readership is far more important
than overblown and off-target digital claims. A trade magazine only
survives—in our case for decades—if the target audience reads it. She
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
4 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023
23_10_FW_ED_NOTE_final.indd 4
is laser-focused on making sure that continues.
Not to be overlooked in all this is the fact that Noelle is a woman.
While this is by no means a first for Footwear Plus publishers (more on
that in a bit), it makes her an outlier in the male-dominated C-suites
of both publishing and footwear, not to mention a host of other fields.
It’s high time my gender allowed more women to have a say in how
things are run, especially taking into account the less than stellar job
we men have been doing in the business and political realms. Surely
women can do better than the countless crypto bro frauds, tech titan
creeps, and bloodthirsty dictators, both real and wannabe.
I also take great delight in featuring the newly named president of
Dansko, Kitty Bolinger, as the subject of this issue’s Q&A (p. 10). She not
only puts another crack in the glass ceiling, she also proudly notes that
Dansko’s entire day-to-day executive team is now made up of women!
That is rare. Then again, leave it to a company steeped
in progressive actions ever since Cofounder Mandy
Cabot came onto the scene. By the way, it happens
to be the same year Footwear Plus did.
Speaking of our publication, Noelle is the ninth
publisher in our esteemed 33-year history. For those
keeping score, five held the title for what amounted
to cups of coffee; one (Michael Atmore) built a solid
foundation over a six-year span that included the sheer
genius hiring of me as Features Editor way back in
1993! He was followed by the late Thomas Hudson,
Jr., who had the brilliant vision (some might argue
blind faith) to name me Editor-in-Chief in 1996.
About a decade later, Caroline Diaco officially took
the reins as publisher after serving nearly 10 years
as our resident sales dynamo. Associate Publisher
Jennifer Craig, another sales dynamo, joined the team
shortly before that. Together, the three of us grew the
business exponentially over a 15-year span. Caroline, Jenn, and I were
on the same page, always wanting what was best for our clients and
readers, which we firmly believed would also be best for Footwear Plus.
The cherry on top was that we loved our jobs, especially getting to know
so many passionate and talented players, past and present. We took our
work very seriously, but not ourselves. We laughed a lot and learned a
ton along the way.
Noelle was a close colleague of ours for most of that run. She comes
from the same school of thought: Always do right by clients and read-
ers, and it’ll work out well for the magazine, too. That’s why I know she
is the right person, at the right time, to take the publisher’s mantle of
Footwear Plus. I hope you will all welcome her into our crazy, colorful
world of shoes. You’re in good hands.
10/5/23 4:43 PM
FOP OCT NOV 2023.indd 5 10/12/23 1:37 PM
 THIS JUST IN

Courting Courtney
Kinderwhore chic roars back to life at New York
Fashion Week. Love it. Photography by Melodie Jeng

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 SCENE & HEARD

Seychelles and BC renewable materials, like cotton and straw over synthetics, when pos-

Strut the Paris Runway

The brands’ vegan styles featured in
Ivana Helsinki’s 25th anniversary show.
THE SHOES FIT—literally. Nordic fashion brand Ivana Helsinki
needed a partner for the launch of its revolutionary responsible fashion
concept, Edition of 50 Pieces, which restricts production of every item
to just 50 numbered pieces. The label, which is also committed to 100
percent veganism, chose Seychelles and the vegan-only BC Footwear
to accessorize the collection for its Paris show.
Sari Ratsula, president/Queen Bee of the California-based brands, was
honored on many levels to partner with Ivana Helsinki. For starters, it
marks the first time the brands have been featured on a runway during
Paris Fashion Week. “We believe fashion is something for everyone to
enjoy and pride ourselves on having an attainable price point, so it’s
incredibly exciting to have our brands showcased on such an elevated
platform,” she says. “Also, I’ve looked to Paris countless times as a
source of inspiration, so to now be a part of that in an official sense is
a full circle moment and just really, really special.”
Seychelles made exclusive colorways of three of its Spring/Summer ’24
styles for the show. “We made a special vegan version of our Seychelles
Monsoon sandal, and we featured the “Used to Love You” heel in caramel
velvet and a fabulous green brocade, as well as a beige Nobody But You
boot from our BC line,” Ratsula says, noting that the brands collaborated
in 2011 and 2012 for New York Fashion Week as well as have been fea-
tured in the label’s flagship stores
in Helsinki and New York. “As
brands, you could call us old friends.
We’ve always been in alignment in
both ethos and aesthetic, and we
hold deep respect for each other’s
creativity and work.”
Sustainable design, of course, is
a key part of that mutual respect.
Ratsula, for one, views sustain-
ability as a working mindset.
“There will always be room for
improvement, so it’s really about
consistently making choices to do
better whenever you can,” she says,
adding, “When you compare the
production of vegan materials to
that of animal leather, that alone
is less of a drain on the earth’s
resources.” She adds, “Choosing
Seychelles’ “Used to Love You”
platforms were updated in crushed
velvet and brocade exclusively for
the Paris show.
sible, is even better. And making styles in small batches, producing only
what we need, and ensuring all our packaging is paper-based and fully
recyclable are other ways we’ve embraced sustainability.”
Paola Suhonen, artistic director Ivana Helsinki, is certainly in agree-
ment on making a lighter global footprint. “I strongly believe that only
by limiting the volume can we be truly responsible,” she says. “We have
too much of everything in this world.”
Ratsula’s partnership with Ivana Helsinki also extends to their mutual
Finnish roots. “It’s exciting for me to work with a heritage Finnish brand,
considering that it’s where I grew up,” she says. “The way Paola uses true
Finnishness and Finnish nature as an inspiration is truly magical and, quite
honestly, made me miss my home country when experiencing the show.”
Black Footwear Forum
a Big Success
The fourth annual event hosted an Oscar
winner and an array of industry leaders
and corporate sponsors.
BIGGER,BROADER,BETTER…the Black Footwear Forum (BFF),
held at Detroit’s Pensole Lewis College (PLC) of Business & Design, a
Historically Black College or University, in late September, knocked
it out of the park, reports PLC’s President and Founder Dr. D’Wayne
Edwards. The free, four-day event, held in partnership with the
Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), was attended
by nearly 700 people and supported by more than 30 sponsors, includ-
ing Nike, Microsoft, PepsiCo, Adidas, Target, Foot Locker, Designer
Brands, General Motors, On Running, Puma, RG Barry Brands, Steve
Madden, and Xbox. It featured presentations, panel discussions, and
networking opportunities built around this year’s theme of “Culture
is Currency: Know Your Worth.”
“We are the culture, and we are the currency that keeps the industry
going,” Edwards says. “Remove people of color from sports, entertain-
ment, music, and fashion. Is it the same?”
The event kicked off with a ribbon cutting ceremony to unveil the
new Pepsi x Frito-Lay Refresh and Relax Lounge designed by PLC
students and dedicated to Kevin Carroll, author, speaker, and agent
for social change. The lineup of speakers included NBA all-star and
entrepreneur Russell Westbrook, who encouraged PLC students to
pursue their creative path and emphasized the importance of diverse
talent in the design field. Panel highlights included the Black Genius
Conversation, featuring Ruth Carter, a two-time Academy Award-
winning costume designer, moderated by shoe designer D’on Lauren
Edwards of Michael Kors. Another panel was Free Game: Generational
Purpose, a discussion on heritage vs. legacy with June Ambrose, costume

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023

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designer and creative director for Puma, and Grammy Award-winning
DJ Jazzy Jeff, moderated by streetwear pioneer James Whitner.
Edwards says this year’s BFF served as a catalyst for innovation,
fostering meaningful conversations and inspiring attendees to think
differently. A particular highlight for him was showcasing people of
color in careers attendees may not have known they were involved in. In
addition to Oscar-winner Carter that included hip-hop architect Mike
Ford, currency designer Brian Thompson, who designed the $100 bill,
and rap ghost writer Grandmaster Caz. “BFF is a place where attendees
come as themselves, not the brands they work for,” Edwards says. “This
brings a vibe of openness to learn and share, no matter who you are.
We’re all on the same level, and everyone is open to uplift you.”
FDRA President Matt Priest concurs on the phenomenal BFF vibe.
“I was surrounded by joy, gratitude, and positivity the entire time,” he says,
citing the powerful lineup of speakers for setting the tone. “To hear from
the likes of Larry Miller, Ruth Carter, D’Wayne Edwards, Jazerai Allen-
Lord, Jason Mayden, James Whitner, DJ Jazzy Jeff, and June Ambrose…I
was honored just to be in the room with such amazing people.” Priest
adds, “We need Black employees and Black culture infused into the
broader footwear community. I believe it’s critical to our collective success.”
IR Show is Vegas Bound
The San Diego show is setting up shop in
Sin City for its next two July editions.
IT’LL LIKELY BE just as sunny, only a tad hotter. Attendees of The
IR Show’s July 2024 and 2025 editions will be at the Horseshoe Las
Vegas Meeting and Convention Center in Las Vegas. The January
editions will remain at the San Diego Convention Center.
“While we love San Diego, we had no choice but to find alternatives
for our July 28-30, 2024, and July 22-24, 2025 events,” says Gary
Hauss, show director. “Comic Con, the largest pop culture event in
the U.S., is held in July in San Diego and takes over the entire city.
The only alternative dates would have been too early or too late, and
the spaces available were just too small.”
Hauss is playing the hand he’s been dealt, leaning into making the
Vegas editions as economical, impactful, and enjoyable as possible.
For starters, he views it as a sort of homecoming, particularly for the
comfort sector, which has been largely absent
from the city since the WSA Show. “We’ve always
The Horseshoe is
loved Vegas, and it just seemed like the perfect
on The Strip.
fit at the perfect time,” he says. “We got the dates
and space we need, and while San Diego is easy
to get to and the hotel rates are good, Vegas is
even easier to get to and our hotel rates ($140 a
night including a $35 resort fee) are incredible.
Plus, everything will still be under one roof.”
As for what’s under that roof, The Horseshoe
(formerly Bally’s on The Strip) recently underwent
23_10_11_FW_S_H_final.indd 9
SCENE & HEARD
Lace me up: Uno
sneaker with Air-
Cooled Memory
Foam insoles and
Skech-Air clear
The fifth annual BFF is airbag midsoles.
already in the planning stages.
The overriding goal is to “ele-
vate,” according to Edwards.
“We’ve raised the bar every
year, and this year the bar was
set very high, but I’m already
excited for 2024 because it’ll
be better than 2023.”
Priest says Black employees
Meet the presidents: FDRA’s Matt Priest
deserve a top-shelf event to and PLC’s Dr. D’Wayne Edwards
honor their contributions and
create a compelling space to network and connect. He’s glad he called
Edwards to launch this initiative in 2018Skechers/Stones
that his since blossomed
collab on into
a beautiful movement. “I’m blown away bydisplay at the band’s
the impact BFF is having
Carnaby Street flagship
on our industry and grateful to have the opportunity to play a small
in London.
role in its success,” he says, adding that regional BFF chapters across
the country are driving engagement throughout the year. “My hope is
that the event continues to blossom and serve as a platform for driving
change at all levels of our industry.”
a multi-million-dollar transformation. The convention center is part
of the hotel, making it easily accessible for attendees. The hotel is also
attached to Paris Las Vegas, offering plenty of dining and entertainment
options without having to drive or walk in the heat. “Everything is new,
and the rooms are beautiful,” Hauss says, noting that a key objective is
to keep costs in check. “For the July ’24 show that includes one hotel
room for three nights per 10x10 of exhibit space.” (Exhibitor fees and
further details can be found at TheIRShow.com.) Travel costs, he adds,
should be less, as there are plenty of direct flights and hotel rates, in
general, are cheaper.
Hauss reports feedback about the move is positive. “Brands believe
this could be a game-changer,” he says. “They think more of their retailers
will attend.” He adds that Vegas is familiar but also refreshing. “Many of
our attendees love San Diego, and for good reason, as it’s a great place to
have a show. So they’ll get the best of both worlds for now.” (The January
28-30, 2024 show will be in the Sails Pavilion, a glass enclosed space
offering views of San Diego and the harbor.)
Hauss believes a show’s location is only part of the equation. Size
matters, as more exhibitors means more buyers, and vice-versa. Of late,
however, smaller shows have been diffusing that potential strength. “It’s
forcing reps to be in too many places without a meaningful ROI, and
it’s forcing retailers to attend multiple shows
in order to see all their brands,” he says. Hauss
believes the West Coast warrants a big show. It’s
why he created IR. “We offer a one-stop shopping
experience where retailers can see their current
brands and discover new ones, which is extremely
important,” he says. “They can meet with key
executives, network, and attend educational
events.” Hauss adds, “To paraphrase Field of
Dreams, ‘If you build it, they will come.’ Well,
we’ve built it, and we hope to see everyone there.”
2023 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 9
10/5/23 4:40 PM
 Q&A BY GREG DUTTER

RIGHT ON
K i t t y B o l i n g e r, n e w l y n a m e d p r e s i d e n t o f D a n s k o , i s s t e e r i n g t h e c o m p a n y
in all the right directions.

ONE COULD MAKE a case that from the day

Kitty Bolinger arrived at Dansko as National Sales
Manager in 2010 she has been on a path toward
becoming its president. Steadily and surely over
the past 13 years, she rose through the ranks, becoming Director of
National Accounts (2012), Vice President of Sales (2013), Executive Vice
President of Sales (2014), Executive Vice President Sales, Ecommerce,
and Marketing (2022), and, as of this September, President. Along the
way, Bolinger expanded her areas of expertise and her responsibilities
to include nearly all facets of the business. Her track record at each stop
proves she is presidential material. But ascendency was hardly preordained.
Bolinger earned each rung of the ladder and, for the latest promotion,
bested a field of candidates from inside and outside Dansko. Ultimately,
she was deemed the best choice to oversee the company’s day-to-day
operations. (CEO Jim Fox is taking on a big picture role.)
One of the many advantages Bolinger provides in her new role is
continuity, which is of particular importance right now, given that her
promotion comes during a period of significant change within Dansko’s
C-suite. In the past year, the board has brought in new VPs for marketing
(Christina Sewell) and sales (Susan Lee). In addition, Kelsey Jayne was
recently promoted from Design Director to VP of Design, essentially replac-
ing Sal Agati, who oversaw those duties for the past 11 years and is retiring
at the end of October. “We’ve had quite a bit of change over the last year,”
Bolinger says. “And continuity is important to our organization—from the partners. “I’m taking them to Schuler’s in Minnesota; Shoe Mill in Portland,
people who work in our headquarters to those in our distribution center OR; Comfort One in the Mid-Atlantic area; and others because knowing them
to our retail partners. They all know who I am.” personally is really important,” she says. “I want [Shoe Mill President] Josh
For Bolinger, continuity also involves keeping the needs of Dansko’s Habre, for example, to have the same comfort level working with Kelsey and
retailers top of mind. “They are No. 1 for me, and I’ve been a proponent of Susan that he had with Sal and me.” Bolinger adds, “We’re going to continue
that all along,” she says, assuring that there will be no Dear John breakup to listen to our retailers’ concerns. That’s really important.”
letters sent to partners. “We want to make sure our retailers have a con- Many independent retailers complain about not even knowing who their
nection here.” This includes knowing reps, regional sales managers, and reps or regional sales managers are for some brands, Bolinger says, and that’s
executive team members on a personal level. To that end, Bolinger is tak- not ok. Nor would it happen under her watch. “Dansko is here today because
ing the new, all-female executive team on a get-to-know-us tour with key of those retailers, as well as the Dillards and Nordstroms of the world,” she

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OL_FtwrPlus_FP_BrGuy.HybPlusRecyc.o.mech.indd
FOP OCT NOV 2023.indd 11 1 10/13/23 5:40
5:18 PM
 Q&A

says. “Being able to make sure that they know they’re
being represented in the decisions Dansko makes
is very important.” That’s more crucial than ever in
disruptive times like the past few years, she adds.
“It’s been a struggle at times to know which way
is up. Now they have too many shoes. Before they
had too few. Are they going to have a letter in their
mailbox informing them that their number-one
brand is going in a different direction? There are
a ton of uncertainties keeping them up at night.
But they should never worry about any of that ever
coming from Dansko.”
Dansko has steadfastly maintained this conscien-
tious approach to doing business for 33 years and
counting. The culture that founders and current
board members Mandy Cabot and Peter Kjellerup
(Cabot’s husband) established is set in stone.
Jim Fox stayed the course, assuming day-to-day
operations in 2016 on the heels of his 10-year run
as CFO. Along the way, “the little clog company that
could,” as Cabot playfully once referred to Dansko,
evolved into a cornerstone comfort brand—one
retailers rely on season after season to boost their
bottom lines. “We’re not caught up in a lot of the
bad behavior going on in the industry right now,”
Bolinger says. “We would never, for example, fire
the sales team if we didn’t make the quarter. That’s
never been the way Dansko operates, and that comes
straight from Mandy and Peter. They’d never blame
a department or an individual if a quarter fell short
really just wanted to meet Mandy, who I had heard
so much about and admired,” Bolinger says. “It just
so happens she went to the same obscure boarding
school that my mother did, and when Peter gave
me a tour of the campus, there was a welcoming
vibe about the place. It felt like home. So I called
my husband and said, ‘I think it’s a sign that I’m
supposed to come here.’”
What have been some of your first orders of
business as president?
The first was getting our new executive team all
in the same room and stating the financial goals
of the organization. I wanted everyone to think
about how they’re going to contribute to meeting
those goals, and to ask me questions about how
we’re going to get there. Everybody needs to be on
the same page and understand those goals. And
we all need to be communicating with each other
on what we’re doing to get there. Now it’s a matter
of executing against those priorities.
What are some of your top priorities?
We’re constantly and consistently evaluating our
product, making sure it’s the very best it can be.
We’ve dug in—maybe to a better degree than in
the past—on what that formula is, but not in a
formulaic way where it’s going to end up looking
like products before. We’re looking at what has
worked for us as well as where we’ve stumbled.
We’re trying to own the stumbles, but also look
for the consistencies and newness to make the
best product in the comfort space. We don’t ever
compromise. Sometimes an option costs less, but
it doesn’t perform as well. That’s not how we roll
here. We think differently, and I think there’s a
big opportunity sticking with that quality over
cost approach.
What are some avenues of potential growth?
First off, we want to reinforce and reestablish
our position in healthcare, as well as making her
aware of the other styles we make, which includes
sneakers. We’ve held a lot of in-person events
across the country recently and gave away lots of
shoes to healthcare workers, specifically nurses.
For example, we gave the entire graduating class
of Jefferson Medical College free pairs. We want
to continue our conversation with healthcare
workers and reinforce that we understand what
they need and are delivering it. We’re also look-
ing at new moms as a growth avenue, because we
believe that’s one of the pivot points in life when a
woman decides that comfortable shoes really pay
off. Maybe before, when she wasn’t running around
after kids, looks were the most important aspect.
We’ve done lots of research in this area and are
investing in more. We also have a great relationship

O F F TH E C U F F
of expectations. It’s about everybody pitching in
and everybody owning it.”
Bolinger believes Dansko’s management philoso-
phy has helped retain quality people. “We’re based
in West Grove, PA, which isn’t exactly a mecca for
business,” she says. “But Mandy and Peter made a What are you reading? Our CEO which is usually not associated What did you want to be when you
commitment to stand by their employees and treat Jim Fox just gave me Herding with being a salesperson. grew up? A lawyer.
them well, which is highlighted by their decision, in Tigers, which is about managing (Laughs.)
2012, to make the company 100 percent employee- creative people. I’m really going What was your first-ever paying job?
owned.” They could have sold the company for a to need it. What is the best business Ice cream scooper, and I lasted one
handsome price, “but they feared what might hap- advice you’ve ever received? shift. I thought my arm was going to
What have you learned so I hear it from (Dansko fall off. It’s very hard work!
pen to their employees under new ownership—or if
far? I’ve learned that I’m not cofounder) Mandy Cabot all
something happened to them” before a sale, Bolinger
a creative person, and I don’t the time: Stay true to who you What was your first concert and best
says. Employee ownership, as well as being at the think the way that they do. are. It’s also great life advice. concert? The Doobie Brothers was
forefront of sustainability and philanthropy, truly (Laughs.) It’s going to be my first. And any time I’ve seen Bruce
makes Dansko truly unique. “We’re one of a kind. very helpful, as we have great If you could invite anyone Springsteen it’s been pretty amazing.
We don’t make short-term decisions. The brand creative people and I want to to dinner, who would it be?
is the most important aspect, as well as the 180 make sure I respect the way Barack Obama. Where is your moment of Zen? My
families that count on the brand. That’s always they process things. dogs sitting in my lap.
been the main focus in how we make decisions. What is inspiring you right
And not having to worry about shareholders gives What was the last series you now? Watching my children, What is your motto? Go big or
watched? The Crown, which who are in their twenties, go home.
us permission to make the right ones.”
shows that I’m not much of a become adults. Both are out of
Playing a key role in those decisions makes
TV/movie person because it first college, employed, and figuring What is your favorite hometown
Bolinger’s new post a dream job. She never envisioned aired several years ago. out life. It’s just interesting memory? I’m from Haddonfield, NJ,
things playing out this way when she joined the watching them succeed, fail, which is where my kids grew up,
company, but she suspects fate played a role in her What might people be get back up again…all of that. and it’s of our annual Fourth of July
career trajectory. Bolinger had just started a job as surprised to know about you? parades. It’s a march-in-the-parade
National Accounts Manager at Vionic when Dansko I’m very much an introvert, kind of town.
reached out. “I agreed to the interview because I

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023

23_10_FW_Q_A_final.indd 12 10/8/23 5:41 PM

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with teachers, and are investing in
activities that are more charitable,
because educators care a lot about
that. Those are three big buckets
that we’re targeting. We’re trying
to get to know all those women as
best we can.
These buckets extend well beyond
clogs.
Yes, and we offer a little bit of
everything. Society has changed
since the pandemic in terms of how
people work, recreate, shop, dress,
etc., and one of the great aspects
about Dansko is that our styles are in step with
this lifestyle shift. So, for example, while our clogs
are flight attendants’ favorite shoe, we also have
the Paisley outdoor walking shoe that’s become a
monster seller. Leading outdoor brands are ref-
erencing us as their pain point. We’ve also offer
super-casual items to dressy transitional styles
that are suitable for various work environments.
Overall, we feel that whatever our target customer
is looking for, as long as she wants comfort and
tremendous support, we have an answer.
Will men’s be a focus going forward?
Yes. We’ll start to reengage with male consumers
for Fall ’24. It’ll lean toward where we had some
success previously, which was more casual and all
about support and underfoot comfort. The fact is the
men’s dress category doesn’t really exist anymore.
How would you assess Dansko’s ability to navi-
gate through the pandemic?
We came through it ok. There’s never been a year
in our history that we haven’t been profitable,
and that includes 2020. Our biggest pain point,
however, was that our largest retail partner (The
Walking Company) filed for Chapter 11 right before
the pandemic. It hurts when you lose 185 points
of distribution in one fell swoop. We couldn’t
immediately bounce back from that. We also had
reduced our footprint with Nordstrom based on
some promotional activity, but we’re right back in
there with them and our sell-throughs are better
than they’ve ever been.
Have you been able to recoup much of the lost
Walking Company business?
Our Dillard’s business has been fantastic. They are
great partners. Our online partners have also been
doing terrific. Our business at Zappos is great, and
our Amazon third party business has also been very
strong. A lot of that business was likely going to
Walking Company stores before. Now she’s finding
us online. And as you well know, the consolidation
of independent retailers has resulted in some of
14 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023
23_10_FW_Q_A_final.indd 14
Q&A
A chrome series update
to the iconic Professional.
them becoming quite significant, and we’re lucky
to be good partners with many of them.
Is there a particular channel poised for growth
next year?
Since we transferred our DTC website to the Shopify
platform, our user experience is better than it’s
ever been. We expect that will be a strong avenue
of growth. I know that retailers don’t like to read
about that, but the reality is that when we create
brand awareness, it helps all our channels of dis-
tribution. But we don’t offer site-wide discounts.
We hold only four sales a year, which our retailers
are informed of in advance and are items that they
can also put on sale. We try to be very respectful
of our retailers and present the brand in the most
premium way on our site.
I think most retailers are resigned to brands
selling DTC online. What ticks them off, though,
is being undercut on price and not having access
to the same merchandise.
I think site-wide sales and email blasts offering
BOGOs are too common, but anybody who fol-
lows our site knows that isn’t the case. One time,
though, I received a call from a retailer who said
they couldn’t get a particular clog from customer
service, but when they logged onto Dansko.com,
they could purchase it. That’s not ok. It was a core
basic style. That should never be the case. So as
long as we continue to behave fairly and honestly,
I think retailers are ok with it. The Dear John
letters are another example. That’s definitely not
ok. Of late, I’ve been hearing a lot about how it’s
all about three brands right now, and if you’re not
On, Hoka, or Birkenstock, you’re not relevant. But
that’s a dangerous assumption. Brands come and
go, and that often depends on how they treat their
retail partners.
How would you assess Dansko’s current overall
strength as a brand?
We have a very strong foundation, but we’re
going through a bit of a slowdown with our iconic
Professional clog. Of course, we
all know icons come back. In
the meantime, though, we have
to diversify our offerings while
we’re in this valley. It’s about not
being as vulnerable to the whims
of whether the icon is hot or not.
That said, we’re working on ways
to reinvigorate our icon. It remains
very important to our business and
we expect it will be in the seasons
to come, especially when people
stop wearing oversized running
shoes all the time.
It could be worse. Dansko doesn’t have an icon.
Exactly, and we wouldn’t have as strong of a brand
identity. I would say we’ve done a much better job
at having a softer landing this time, whereas other
brands who filled in around their icons did so with
inferior quality. That has come back to bite them.
We won’t ever do that. If a style has our name
on it, then it better be as good or better than our
Professional clog.
How do you go about making sure those stan-
dards are kept?
One way now is through weekly content creation
meetings, which includes people from sales, mar-
keting, product development, and our Amazon
person. We want everybody’s input to make sure
we’re all on the same page. For example, if we’re
sending out an email campaign, we want to make
sure the creative meets with what product develop-
ment originally intended for that particular style. Is
this where they see that style being worn? Overall,
there’s just a lot more give and take in these con-
tent creation meetings, whereas in the past it was
a case of product development making the shoes
and the marketing department advertising them
without any conversation about how the two should
align. The same rule of thumb now applies to our
photo shoots. Having product development and
our VPs of design and marketing at the shoots to
talk it through with the photographers and stylists
makes for much better alignment. We just started
on Spring ’25, and these relationships are now very
solid. So now when we talk about the consumer,
everybody has a say. What’s more, they like work-
ing together. It’s definitely been a positive shift
over the past year.
Why might it be important that a woman is
president of Dansko right now?
For starters, I think it’s very important to just show
what women can accomplish. Let me clarify, what
a team of women can accomplish, because it’s not
just me. Our entire executive team is female. That’s
unique. When I entered the industry in the early
10/8/23 5:41 PM
 Q&A

’90s (as a tech rep for Timberland), management
was dominated by older men. It has slowly evolved,
but it still tends to be mostly men at the top. But
when a woman is put in charge, you see what they
can do. Look at what Michelle Poole (president of
Crocs) has done, and what Wendy Yang recently
did during her tenure as president of Hoka. You
go, girls! I think it’s just a different way of looking
at how to run a business. The fact that Dansko
is also primarily a women’s brand and now has
Doing the right thing is a rare company credo,
especially when it’s not always reciprocated.
It is. But when a long-time retail customer recently
called, informing us that they were going out of
business, we took the shoes back and refunded
the money. That’s just what you do when you’ve
done business with that person for 25 years. We
know their family, and we know it would make a
big difference in their lives. I’m proud that Dansko
says it’s ok to do that.

Strategy
women’s eyes looking at how things are done is
very important. In addition, we’re very much an What will Jim’s main focus be as CEO?
organization with a strong culture of kindness Right now, he’s working with our board to get
+
Content
and caring. And while being a woman doesn’t them in alignment with the long-term vision of the
necessarily make those qualities stronger, perhaps organization. It’s more guidance at 30,000 feet.
Dansko is viewed as more progressive because of Jim isn’t involved in whether a shoe should have
+
Design
our female leadership team. I believe people want a blue lace, or a green outsole. It’s about where we
to align with brands that are forward-thinking should invest. For example, if we have $2 million,
and progressive. we want to make sure it
gets invested into the right
Mandy was a trailblazer
in this regard. What have
“If consumers marketing programs or new
consumer acquisitions. It’s

you learned most from
her about business?
Never compromise on what
you think is important. For
her and Peter, it’s extremely
important to leave the world
a better place than when
they got there. It’s real.
It’s not just saying what
looks good in print. She
and Peter walk the walk,
and always have. In fact,
know us,
about making sure that
funding is available when
someone has a vision that’s
they love us. vetted. He can then give
the thumbs up.
But more people The fact that Dansko has
powered by your friends
need to know us,
never had an unprofitable
must help in this regard. at Footwear Plus magazine
Oh, 100 percent. Our strong
because we financial position is a huge
asset. For example, some

have a great
they’re serial entrepreneurs.
They’re doing it again in
Belize with the launch of
Silk Grass Farms, which is
essentially a coconut water
brand story.”
and cacao agribusiness.
They’ve acquired hundreds
of thousands of acres, a lot of which the delegated
as a preserve. They’re reimagining the agribusi-
ness by merging agriculture with land steward-
ship and conservation to create a durable model
that benefits the environment and the people of
Belize. As Mandy and Peter always do, they do it
the right way. It’s very inspiring.
It’s a big reason why you joined Dansko to
begin with, right?
Yes. I’m a firm believer in this precedent of leaving
the world better than the way you found it. That’s
what I want, and that’s what Mandy and Peter
expect. I learned so much from their example.
We have a monthly call to go over the business,
and she often gives me books to read about how
to be a better person, a better leader, a better
company…everything.
might have said we were
crazy, but during the pan-
demic we didn’t cancel We specialize in
orders with our factory
partners. We worked to
award-winning custom
reduce production and hold content and marketing
certain leathers to use later, programs tailored to grow
but we didn’t leave anybody high and dry. And we your business.
paid all our bills on time throughout the pandemic.
We didn’t ask for 100 days dating, or some of the
other things that we heard were happening. As a www.footwearplusstudio.com
result, we still have what we believe are the best
factory partners in our space. They will bend over
backwards for us. The fact that we could afford
to do that is because we didn’t get ourselves into
a jam by mismanaging our finances in the years
before 2020.
Where do you envision of Dansko in three years?
It’s more of a financial vision, which is to take
back some of the shelf space from brands that
are maybe on-trend right now but aren’t the
best partners in the world. Another big goal is
to increase consumer brand awareness. With
all due respect to everyone who has come >39

23_10_FW_Q_A_final.indd 15 10/9/23 5:52 PM

 FALL BOOT ESSENTIALS
Ve r s a t i l e s t y l e s t h a t l o o k g r e a t o n t h e t r a i l ,
in the office, and on the town. The very
definition of cool, calm, and collected.

CLARKHILL HI: Tough enough for urban

excursions and hikes, the grippy sawtooth
rubber outsole flexes with natural foot
movement and the stitched leather storm welt
offers extra durability. Additional features
include premium, unlined leather upper;
molded, leather-lined Contour Cushion
footbed; and lightweight EVA midsole.

TORHILL HI: A nod to Clarks’ ’90s-era Big

Gripper profile, the Torhill Hi feels every bit
as contemporary with a streamlined, lace-up
design that models the iconic Wallabee. Design
highlights include intricate topstitching for
a heritage-inspired, casual style; responsibly
sourced suede upper; adjustable lace for a
secure fit; soft, breathable leather footbed
lining; removable, molded, part-recycled
Contour Cushion footbed; grippy and flexible
TPR outsole; and debossed Clarks logo and
Glastonbury Tor fobs.

CLARKDALE EASY: The answer to every

smart-casual dress code, the classic Chelsea
boot sits atop Clarks’ signature natural crepe
outsole with a durable rubber heel top piece
and a premium leather storm welt for a
utilitarian touch. Additional features include
premium suede upper; elastic insert for a
flexible fit and pull-on appeal; and molded,
leather-lined Contour Cushion footbed.

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16 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2023 2023 october/november
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16

23_10_FW_Clarks_RO.indd 16 10/13/23 4:01 PM

 ...MADE FOR WALKING
Go big and go bold this fall. Chunky heels and platform soles raise
the bar on style with some ’tude.

PIQUE UP: Defined by a retro square toe and

75mm platform heel, the ankle boot pairs
well with flared jeans and floaty dresses alike.
Design highlights include a stretchy elastic COLDEN UP: Ideal
insert for quick and easy on/off; durable leather for day-to-night
upper; breathable leather sockliner; underfoot dressing, the ankle
cushioning; and grippy resin rubber outsole. boot features
butter-soft suede
uppers, a pillowy
foam footbed, and
soft linings that wrap
feet in comfort.
Additional design
highlights include
subtle stitching
details; 80 mm,
easy-to-wear block
heel; and a grippy,
lightweight outsole.

ORIANNA 2 HIKE: Part hiker/part combat boot

and all style. Design highlights include premium,
responsibly sourced pebble nubuck leather upper;
hiking-inspired details like metal eyelets and lace
hooks; padded collar; textile lining; breathable
leather sockliner; removable, leather-lined Contour
Cushion footbed; 50 mm heel height; and lug
triple-layer outsole combining TPR and EVA for an
ultra-lightweight durability.

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2023 october/november
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23_10_FW_Clarks_R1.indd 17 10/13/23 6:33 PM

 defining comfort

Seamless Sensibility
Unlike the athletic category that calls attention to cushioning and fit features as much
as possible, the comfort sector is far more subtle in its approach to design. By no means,
though, are those aspects any less important. The key is seamless integration
of comfort technologies that allows style to take center stage. Here, an array of brands
present their seamless approach to comfort and style for Spring/Summer ’24.
—Greg Dutter

Aetrex Gaining Steam

The shoes and technology company
is firing on all cylinders. Kristin and Tamara

AETREX PRESIDENT EVAN SCHWARTZ is a
glass-is-full kind of person, by nature. So are brothers
Larry and Matt, CEO and Chief Revenue Officer,
respectively. But the Jersey boys are even more
upbeat than usual about the company’s prospects for
growth next year and beyond. The positivity stems
largely from its diversified portfolio that includes
in-store foot scanning devices, custom orthotics,
and a growing array of comfort shoes. The latter
has been an especially bright spot of late.
“We’re coming off a very strong season with high
turns and strong consumer demand which, in turn, is
helping us gain shelf space,” reports Evan Schwartz.
“Retailers are expressing interest in expanding color
and style offerings for our key-performing, core
styles for Spring/Summer ’24.”
Schwartz cites Aetrex’s wedge and sandal collec-
tions as expected highlights for next season. Standout
styles include a new flat casual sandal (Tamara)
and two new wedges, Ashley and Anna, as well as
the Vania platform sandal. “We’re also introducing
a block heel style (Kristin), which features a new
heel height for us, as well as a different silhouette.
It’s a versatile style that can easily be dressed up or It’s a win-win-win potential. Speaking of which,
down.” There are also several new product launches the company’s reputation as a reliable partner is
in the offering that expand on and complement the another winning attribute. “We do a lot to support
brand’s best-selling Jillian and Sydney sandal styles, our independent retailers, in particular, who’ve always
according to Schwartz. “They all feature our signature been important to our business,” Schwartz says. “We
arch support, cork footbeds, and premium materials support their sell-through. It’s a true partnership.
that combine the best in comfort and style. And, like They recognize the staying power of our brand, and
all Aetrex footwear, they also incorporate the learn- we’re proud that we’re a top-performing vendor with
ings and data from our foot scanning technology, many of our accounts.”
offering premium support and a great fit.”
It helps, Schwartz says, that Aetrex lies in the
sweet spot from a macro fashion and lifestyle per-
spective—one that he doesn’t see changing anytime
soon. “The growing health and well-being trends Anna
have contributed to educating consumers about the
importance of support and alignment in footwear,”
he says. “Our ability to combine all the data points
from our millions of scans with premium comfort
features and on-trend styling positions us well with
today’s consumer who does not want to sacrifice
style for comfort.”
Indeed, Aetrex offers multiple points of customer
contact that can enhance retailers’ bottom lines.

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023

23_10_11_FW_DEF_CMFT_final.indd 18 10/11/23 7:12 AM


Ecco Sees the Light
The Danish brand debuts LYTR midsole along
with a plethora of new styles.
ECCO’S SPRING/SUMMER ’24 collection is highlighted by the
introduction of its LYTR midsole technology—a bio-based material
that enhances cushioning, reduces weight, improves shock absorption,
is easier to clean, and lasts longer—all while lessening the impact on the
environment. LYTR will debut in the Biom 2.2 natural motion running
and Soft 60 casual styles.
“It’s our lightest and softest midsole yet,” says Brandy LaPlante, sales
manager for Ecco USA, adding that the Soft 60 will also feature the brand’s
DriTan leather, which uses less water in the tanning process. “DriTan saves
enough water to keep 9,000 people hydrated for one year.”
From a big picture perspective, LaPlante says Ecco’s new season is
all about color. “We have a plethora of options in women’s, from muted
pastels, bold summer pops, and metallic details. And in men’s, we stay
pretty classic, but we’ll continue with our new fall pop of dark clay, which
plays into an olive green tone.”
With regard to silhouettes, LaPlante cites new dress and fashion launches
in women’s within its Sculpted collection that features heel heights from
35 mm to 55 mm. In addition, there are new platform soles and uppers
within the Cozmo sandal collection. “We’ll also have an expansion in our
core collection with new modern colorations in key groups like Soft 7,
Yucatan, Flowt, and our men’s hybrid groups featuring the S Lite Moc
and ST.1 Hybrid,” she says.
Helping Ecco zero in on trend-right colors and styles for the U.S.
market is its design studio in the Brooklyn Navy Yard. The 7,000-square-
foot studio opened in mid 2022 and has met all expectations, both as a
working design center and source of creative connections and inspiration.
“We’re constantly evolving and striving to connect with the consumer, and
the studio enables us to add an American spice to our European recipe,”
LaPlante says. “The team in Brooklyn works in tandem with our Danish
designers to elevate Ecco in the U.S. market. It also allows us to react to
trends more quickly. As always, it’s through collaboration with our key
accounts that we can find elements that will enhance our collection in
the near and distant future.”
Biom 2.2 and Soft 60
sneakers with LYTR
midsoles; a sandal from
the Sculpted collection.
23_10_11_FW_DEF_CMFT_final.indd 19
Sedonia slides from the
TravelActiv collection.
Propét Focuses on the Essentials
The brand’s refined approach raises the bar on comfort.
AS THE SAYING goes, less is more. That’s the approach the Propét design
team has taken with its Spring/Summer ’24 collection. Call it a quest for
simplicity in terms focusing on the sizes-and-widths brand’s core values of
premium comfort, fit, and durability.
“Our team has taken the time to carefully review our product develop-
ment process and refine details, redefine comfort, and elevate our offering
of comfort products,” says Brad Gebhard, CEO of Propét USA. “Our Spring/
Summer 2024 collection focuses on the essentials and is a quest for simplicity.”
That includes Propét’s Breeze Walker and TravelActiv women’s col-
lections. The Breeze Walker sandals feature three adjustable straps at
the forefoot, instep, and heel, while a supple leather lining helps prevent
rubbing. It’s topped off by contoured footbed with microfiber lining and
a durable PU outsole for excellent traction. Meanwhile, the TravelActiv
series of casual sneakers and sport sandals is the brand’s take on athlei-
sure. Features include a low-profile outsole offering extra flexibility, a
removable cushioned footbed to accommodate custom orthotics, and a
stretchy mesh fabric upper to fit nearly all foot shapes, including ham-
mertoes and bunions.
Both collections garnered strong responses during the recent round of
shows, especially TravelActiv’s limited-edition Lily Pad green colorway. “We
experienced a fantastic turnout at our shows, with Atlanta being a standout
success,” Gebhard reports. “The enthusiastic reception underscores Propét’s
expertise in cultivating a variety of unique and desirable color choices to
both our dealers and consumers.”
Other Spring/Summer ’24 highlights include the Propét Ultra, a carry-
over athletic collection that continues to create buzz, according to Gebhard.
It’s success has led to the launch of the 392 DuroCloud for men, the brand’s
next generation athletic style. “This shoe offers a high rebound ETPA
DuroCloud midsole with a carbon fiber shank, a first for Propét,” Gebhard
says. “We expect the 392 to be one of the most comfortable men’s athletic
shoes available in the market.”
Propét Ultra
2023 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 1 9
10/11/23 7:12 AM
 defining comfort
Two from
the Ultra-X
work collection.

OrthoLite is Hot Twisted X Launches Ultralite X

The leading insole supplier to introduce its popular The brand weighs in with a breakthrough work
O-Therm insole to brand partners. footwear construction.

BABY, IT’S COLD, outside, especially in Q1
of 2024. To protect against harsh elements,
OrthoLite’s revolutionary O-Therm insoles
will be featured in select brand partners,
enabling consumers to stay warmer for
longer, allowing them to be more com-
fortable, perform better, and go farther
in cold-weather conditions. What makes
O-Therm, first introduced in 2021, a game-
changer is that it protects feet in extreme
hot weather, too.
“OrthoLite O-Therm extends our brand
promise of 25 years and counting to create
the most comfortable environment under-
foot within a shoe, be it in extreme hot or
cold weather conditions,” says CB Tuite,
chief sales officer. “This is aimed at people
O-Therm insoles
who live, work, and recreate in cold or hot
weather conditions.”
O-Therm is the only aerogel-infused,
open-cell PU foam cold block solution
that can be applied as an insole as well as
a strobel layer or lining. O-Therm remains
unrivaled in performance, according to
Tuite. In fact, OrthoLite worked with a
third-party thermal test laboratory, Vartest
Laboratories, to quantify the performance.
The results: O-Therm is a breathable
thermal barrier that is 54 percent more
effective, on average, at blocking the cold
compared to other thermal insoles when
tested at -108° F. In addition, O-Therm
retains all the comfort and performance
benefits of OrthoLite’s open-cell PU foam.
The thermal foam is available in thickness
ranging from 2 mm to 20 mm, enabling
it to be combined with a wide range of
OrthoLite top-layer foams to create a
custom insole solution for a broad range
of footwear categories.
Tuite says brand partners (to be
announced soon) will be introducing
styles featuring O-Therm that block both
heat and cold. He adds that OrthoLite has
been working closely with these partners
from concept to commercialization. It’s a
“codesign” process that aims to deliver opti-
mal comfort and performance. “OrthoLite
remains committed to building, testing,
and manufacturing footwear material
solutions for our 500-plus brand partners,
and O-Therm delivers on that promise,”
Tuite says. “Our innovation team found
a way to infuse our open-cell PU foam
with a proprietary aerogel that creates
the lightest, most advanced version of
the world’s most insulative material.
The result is a thermal barrier that offers
optimal temperature control in a light-
weight application, perfectly suited for
our industry-leading insoles.”
IT’S WORTH THE weight. Specifically, Twisted X’s new
Ultralite X collection weighs 20 percent less, on average, than
traditional work footwear—without compromising comfort, says
CEO Prasad Reddy. The unique EVA compound is as durable
as traditional EVA materials, he adds.
“When showing Ultralite X, our reps toss a shoe to buyers
and they’re always blown away by how lightweight they are—it’s
lighter than a candy bar,” Reddy claims. “And when they try on
a boot or shoe, they’re blown away by the comfort.”
Reddy says the impetus for Ultralite X came direct from con-
sumers. “We’re always soliciting feedback from our customers,
because our aim is to understand their evolving needs, in both
their professional and personal lives,” he says noting that the
initial response by retailers to Ultralite X has been very strong.
“Our customers want to feel lighter on their feet, which lowers
their fatigue over the course of a long day.” Hence the tag line:
“Lighten your workload.” Reddy adds that it’s always gratify-
ing to see a positive response to the company’s extensive R&D
efforts. Their hard work paid off. One of Twisted X’s premises
is to introduce a new technology every six months. It keeps the
design team sharp, never resting on its laurels.
“Creating footwear that is functional, stylish, and most impor-
tantly comfortable has always been at the heart of Twisted X,”
Reddy says. “Everything we do is about comfort. In fact, our
tag line is: ‘Rooted in Comfort.’” The exec adds, “We’re rooted
in this mission to bring new comfort technologies to market.
We never stop.”
Speaking of which, Twisted X’s recent launch of The Circular
Project, marking the company’s latest sustainable design initiative.
The midsoles and footbeds are comprised of 85 percent excess
foam factory scraps, preventing the waste from ending up in
landfills. Select styles also include Twisted X’s ecoTWX fabric,
a lightweight, carbon-conscious, and durable material made
from recycled plastic bottles salvaged from oceans and landfills.
To further the effort, Twisted X is encouraging consumers to
return the footwear to its Decatur, TX, headquarters after use.
The shoes will be reground into second generation footwear and
other multigenerational products.
“Sustainability is our area of expertise and comes second
nature to us, but we’re consistently innovating and pushing the
boundaries of what is possible,” Reddy says. “We believe that
small steps can make a big impact, and I’m thrilled that our
consumers can play an active role as we step into the circular
economy and do better for the planet together.”

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023

23_10_11_FW_DEF_CMFT_final.indd 20 10/11/23 7:45 AM

 TT
RR ED
EN ND
S PS
OTPT
OTI NTGI N G

BACK IN BLACK
Bold sandals strike a powerful chord.

Seychelles
Sorel

Clarks

Alegria

Cougar

Rieker

2023 september• •footwearplusmagazine.com

2023 october/november footwearplusmagazine.com 21
21

23_10_FW_TRENDS_final.indd 21 10/8/23 5:29 PM

 A N OT E T O M Y Y OU N G E R S E L F
A B U Y E R’ S G U I D E T O L I F E
Trisha Sweeney, executive vice president of sales for Syndic8,
looks back on a career in buying that bought a world of amazing opportunities.
DEAR TRISHA, Happy Sweet 16! A proud native of Concord, NH,
(Live Free or Die!), you’re enjoying junior year at Concord High School
(CHS), home of the Crimson Tide! Having opted not to attend private
school, you love CHS, where you’re among friends and bask in Division
1 bragging rights. You run track and play field hockey while trying not to
skip too many classes hanging out with your buddies. High school is one
of the most memorable experiences of your life. Forty years from now,
you’re still surrounded by unconditionally loving high school friends. It’s
why you hold all friendships in high regard.
Before I tell you how your life unfolds, a heads-up
on some touchstones. 1. You’re a planner, even though
life doesn’t turn out as you planned. 2. You’re always
learning. Make a point to listen and respect those with
experience. 3. Develop your own style, despite pressure
to conform to stereotypical business methods. 4. You’re
loyal. Stick with companies as long as there’s room for
advancement. It pays dividends. 5. Home is where your
heart is. You have several opportunities to take better-
paying jobs that require moving away from Boston. You
pass on all of them. Your greater calling is to family and
friends. 6. Thanks, Mom and Dad! I know you deem
them too strict right now, but they never hold you back
from pursuing your dreams. You’re also blessed with
the love and support of Nana and Papa. Making them
proud fuels your drive to succeed.
Now, about that drive. Early on, the plan wasn’t to
take on the business world. It was more, “I want to
work until I’m 30 and then settle down.” That is, until
you catch the buying bug. Your career will take you
around the world and define the important chapters
of your life. On that note, let’s get started…
Trisha Sweeney, circa 2000,
CHAPTER 1: The plan is to follow in your father’s shopping China’s Canton Fair.
optometrist footsteps. But then a friend nonchalantly
suggests becoming a buyer. As in, “My brother’s girlfriend is a buyer, and
she has really nice clothes.” Sold! And while you’re probably the least likely
candidate for a women’s college, it’s off Simmons College’s esteemed Prince
Program in Retail Management!
Upon graduation, you get accepted to Jordan Marsh’s coveted training
program, a golden ticket to a retail career. You pay your dues, first work-
ing as a salesfloor manager. You then jump ship to Hills to pursue your
dreams of becoming a buyer. You spend 11 years at the discount chain.
You rise from merchandise planner to assistant buyer to associate buyer
to your first official buyer title, overseeing the pet department. As a lover
of all animals, it’s a dream job! How can anyone be grumpy working on
a planogram for dog toys? Your passion for animals drives you to build
the department into a destination category. It triples in size. The success
jumpstarts your career, expanding your buying talents to the automotive
(not kidding) and seasonal departments. (Mom is an artist and decorator
for all holidays, so this area is right up your alley.) Your career is moving
onward and upward—until one of life’s unplanned moments occurs.
22 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023
23_10_NTMYS_FW_final.indd 22
CHAPTER 2: Regional mass merchants are struggling to survive. Ames
acquires Hills and closes the buying office. You jump ship to Value City, an
Ohio-based off-price chain with a satellite buying office near Boston. You’re
the buyer of seasonal decor. You embrace the dynamic close-out business.
The excitement, urgency, and many ways to analyze deals (no two are the
same!) means zero boredom. It’s the most fun eva! Remember: Knowledge
is power in negotiating, and sweaty palms often get the best deal.
Simultaneously, you work in product development. You visit factories in
Southeast Asia and attend the Canton Fair in Guangzhou. Your creativity
is at an all-time high. Value City is one of the most
impactful experiences in your career. Then comes
another fork in the road: Corporate wants you to move
to Ohio. Not happening.
CHAPTER 3: You join the king of retailers, TJX
Companies, as buyer for the glass and crystal depart-
ment in its HomeGoods chain, entrusted with elevating
the assortment and creating a destination. In addition
to traveling to China, you become immersed in the
European market. You learn a ton about buying and
running a business. The best practices you learn at TJX
will guide you throughout your career.
But you’re now approaching the Big 4-0. The travel
is tough. When your best friend says, “Trisha is never
around,” it inspires your next chapter: Hello, shoes!
CHAPTER 4: A friend introduces you to Shoebuy.com,
a pure play start-up in need of a merchant. You think
there’s no way you’ll cross over to the dark side of digital
retail, but after the interview, your head is spinning
with excitement. You have no idea what drop shipping
is (yet), but you know you’re on the verge of something
huge. Over the next 13-plus years, the Shoebuy team
ushers in an online retail revolution. Under your watch
as Chief Merchant, the merchandise mix grows from 200 to 1,000-plus
brands. There’s no playbook. You’re helping write it! Prepare for a lot of
blood, sweat, tears, twists, turns, laughter, and a rewarding ride.
CHAPTER 5: You’ve experienced one start-up boom, so why not get in
on the ground floor of another? You cross over from retail to a technology
company, becoming EVP of sales for Syndic8. Suddenly you’re the seller!
Fortunately, you know what buyers need. Syndic8 optimizes and organizes
reams of digital data efficiently, saving time and making ecommerce more
profitable for companies.
FUTURE CHAPTERS: What a long, strange trip it’s been, from merchandis-
ing at Jordan Marsh to growing clients’ digital business at Syndic8. Always
trust your instincts. Every road you’ve taken has led you to an exciting,
rewarding place and made you the person you are today. As Jerry Garcia
sings, So many roads I know/So many roads, so many roads/Mountain
high, river wide/So many roads to ride. Enjoy the journey!
10/5/23 4:57 PM
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& Accessories Market
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Join us at the premier market for the top brands
in footwear, fashion accessories and jewelry.

JANUARY 16 - 19, 2024

Curating the best brands in the best place.

dallasmarketcenter.com / @dallasmarket

FOP OCT NOV 2023.indd 23 10/12/23 8:27 AM

 e u r o p e a n t r e n d r e p o r t : S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 24

Back in the Groove MICAM and adjacent fashion shows saw 42,000-plus visitors,
marking a 21 percent increase over the previous September edition.

PEOPLE CAME,THEY SAW, they sipped cappuccinos, they net-

worked, and they, of course, bought lots of shoes. Organizers of the Raising Arizona
Milan, Italy-based shows reported an increase in attendance from key Upcoming sequels to the classic


markets around the globe—a strong sign that the industry continues Birkenstock sandal.
to recover from the depths of the pandemic.
More than 2,000 exhibitors showcased their latest Spring/Summer
’24 collections, offering buyers an array of styles across all categories.
While maximal sneakers continue to set the fashion pace, many buy-
ers were on the lookout for the next big trend. Might the pendulum be
poised to swing the other way? Ballerina flats? Flatforms? Who knows?
In the meantime, here’s some of the key trends that were on display.

Buckle Up
Versatile monk straps are in gear


with chinos, jeans, and suits.
Laura Biagiotti Lemon Jelly

F. lli Alborino

Brunate NeroGiardini

Profession Bottier Barker

6Punto9 Cerbero Kamoa Menbur

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023

23_10_FW_MICAM_final2.indd 24 Kamoa 10/8/23 6:11 PM

 Clean Slate All Rise

 
The cool shade of blue is the new gray. Platform sneakers rule.

Gabor Candice
Cooper

Finn
Comfort

Men’s
Barker Devotion

Voile
Blanche

Cult

So Fresh


Mint is on the money next spring Thierry
Rabotin

Lemon Jelly

Pons
Quintana

Rieker

Lodi W6YZ
Christofoli

2023 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 2 5

23_10_FW_MICAM_final2.indd 25 10/8/23 6:11 PM

 T R ETNRD
E NSDP SOT T ITNI NGG
P OT

EASY DOES IT
U n d e r s t a t e d s l i p - o n s f o r w h e n y o u r o v e r s i z e d r u n n i n g s h o e s n e e d a b r e a t h e r.

LaMO

Rieker

Quoddy

Propét

Justin Boots

Minnetonka

Geox

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023

23_10_FW_TRENDS_final.indd 26 10/8/23 5:30 PM

 Every kind
Style
FLOWERFLOW

OF COMFORT
SS | 2024 COLLECTION

Style Style
ALEXCIA springfootwear.com | 800.962.0030 Springfootwear FRANCE

FOP OCT NOV 2023.indd 27 10/12/23 1:38 PM

 C H I C E S PA D R I L L E S I N M U T E D TO N E S A R E O N T H E M E N U F O R S P R I N G /S U M M E R ’ 2 4 .

P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y T R E V E T T M C C A N D L I S S • S T Y L I N G B Y M A R I A H WA L K E R

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 28 10/10/23 2:03 PM

 Aetrex platform sandals
with contoured footbeds
and adjustable straps.

29

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 29 10/10/23 2:03 PM

 30

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 30 10/10/23 2:04 PM

 White Mountain
D’Orsay wedges.
Opposite page:
Raffia wedge slides
by André Assous.

31
31

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 31 10/10/23 2:04 PM

 32

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 32 10/10/23 2:04 PM

 Peep toe slingbacks
by Impo.

33

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 33 10/10/23 2:04 PM

 Clockwise from top: Sanctuary
vegan leather wedge; frayed
slide by Minnetonka; platform
sandal by Remonte; Spring Step
suede slide with rhinestone
embellishment.

34

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 34 10/10/23 2:05 PM

 Gladiator flats
by Jack Erwin.

35

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 35 10/10/23 2:05 PM

 Aerosoles suede fisherman mules. Opposite
page: sawtooth platform by Seychelles.

Fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; styling:

Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; model:
Ines Mambou-Missoumani/Q Management;
hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/Next
Artists; photo assistant: Eileen Viglietta;
production assistant: Olivia Mannarino.

36

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 36 10/10/23 2:05 PM

 37

23_10_11_FW_FASH 05 GD NC_02.indd 37 10/10/23 2:05 PM

 Let’s Dance
Randy Ochart, CEO of French Sole, on the classic ballerina flat and its potential for endless encores.
By Greg Dutter
S
OME FASHIONS ARE always on point. The
ballerina flat is a perfect example, and French
Sole CEO/Designer Randy Ochart has been
the Balanchine of ballet flats for four decades
and counting.
It started back in 1983, when Ochart opened
a tiny store on New York’s tony Upper East
Side. The ballerina flat was the store’s sig-
nature style. Soon French Sole boasted the
world’s largest selection and became a mecca
for women worldwide (including the queen
of the ballerina flat, Audrey Hepburn, and
many other celebrities) seeking seasonal updates on this versatile wardrobe
staple. Indeed, the ballerina flat is one of those rare silhouettes that looks
just as good paired with skirts and dresses as it does with a white T-shirt
and jeans. It’s comfortable and easy to wear. Ochart saw early on that he
was onto something. He’s kept it moving by seasonally introducing new
colors, patterns, materials, embellishments, and subtle shape tweaks—all
while adhering to French Sole’s highest standards of comfort and fit. His
talents for reimagining and reinvigorating the ballerina flat has been an
artistic dance all its own.
“Ballet flats and are elegant, comfortable, and eternally fashionable, espe-
cially compared to some of the new regimen of sneakers and clunky comfort
shoes, which I feel do very little to enhance the look
of women’s footwear,” Ochart says. “We feel that
there will always be a client looking for timeless
ballet flats and they are a perennial favorite for
many of our clients.”
Ochart is a retailer by trade, who soon after
became a designer. That’s because he had a ringside
seat to how women shopped: what they gravitate
to, what the adore, what repels them. The knowl-
edge has given him a sixth sense when it comes
to ballerina flats, which has since extended to
other select silhouettes. In fact, Ochart says his
first shoe-related memory is at retail, observing
women focus on finding their perfect shoe. “The
advantage we have is that our stores give us direct
feedback on new styles, which we then parlay into
design moving forward,” he says, adding that he has
honed his design skills working alongside French
Sole’s European factory partners.
38 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023
23_10_FW_SHOE_SALON_final.indd 38
Randy Ochart
For Spring/Summer ’24, that translates
to bold, vibrant colors such as hot pink,
kelly green, and a lurid orange. Ochart
says the overall theme of the season is the
Bold Ballerina. “We’re going above and
beyond with mesh, raffia, braided leathers,
striking color options, and slight-square
toe and almond toe shapes, which gives
a subtle yet noticeable difference from our classics that we stock year-round,”
he says. As for a personal favorite in the collection, Ochart picks the Lacey
Mary Jane ballerina. “It features the softest, most supple leathers, and the
strap has a built-in elastic to fit feet of all sizes,” he says, adding that the classic
silhouette looks to be popular in heels as well.
For Ochart, the dance continues. The thrill of performing and the stand-
ing ovation from customers has him hooked. “Knowing that I have created a
unique concept and watching it thrive each season is what keeps me coming
back for more, ” he says.
How would you describe French Sole’s overall aesthetic? Timeless, clas-
sic, feminine, chic.
What makes a French Sole ballerina flat unlike any other in terms of
construction, materials, fit, look, etc.? We fuse true fashion with cozy
comfort. French Sole puts the emphasis on
proper fitting. Our design and construction
Bold ballerinas
are what makes us stand out from the plethora
a la French Sole.
of companies that have sought to emulate our
formula for success.
Do you have any golden rules for design? The
number-one rule is that it has to fit correctly
and be comfortable, otherwise the customer
will not respond. The second rule is that it
cannot be too trend driven. We want our shoes
to truly be timeless. We want them able to be
worn year after year and seamlessly fit into
any women’s wardrobe.
Why is the ballerina flat an essential style
in every woman’s wardrobe? It’s a timeless
silhouette that never really goes out of style, no
matter what trends are currently happening. A
10/5/23 4:49 PM

Put a little bling
in your step.
ballerina elevates a simple jeans and T-shirt, adding a touch of understated
elegance that sneakers just can’t do.
What has your collaboration with Nicky Hilton brought to the ballet
flat—and to French Sole? Nicky brings a youthful, feminine touch to the
ballerinas with her own distinctive style. Her unique perspective on pastel
colors, her signature baby blue sole, and bow details adds freshness to our
already established French Sole brand. Nicky has also continued to be a
pioneer of eco-friendly design, creating our first-ever, 100-percent sustain-
able shoes. We’ll continue with that initiative this season.
How’s business this year? Fortunately, our business is on par to pre-
pandemic levels, and we’re grateful to experience increases this past year.
How are the stores doing, in particular? They’re doing great! Our loyal
Upper East Side customers have shopped with us for decades. They always
come in to look at our newest styles. Of note this season is the increase
in women in their 20s and 30s who are coming in to purchase ballerinas.
I’d say that’s in part because young women, who might have thought that
style was for an older clientele, have been seeing it walk down the runways
of Paris and Milan recently.
Where do you envision French Sole in three years? We’re looking to
expand into other markets around the world.
What is the best design advice you’ve ever received? To concentrate and
expand on a definable and workable concept. That’s what we’ve done, because
in addition to the myriad variety of ballets and other shoes we offer, it’s the
people behind French Sole that have truly made our business a success.
Who are some designers you admire? Robert Clergerie, Fausto Santini,
and Roger Vivier. All possessed a defined vision and relentless energy in
pursuing their goals.
  
Care to offer any advice on how to make a long-term go of it in this
business? I would suggest to anyone who may be interested in entering
the shoe business, especially during these challenging times, to have a
definable concept, and then expand on that vision and what that represents
to their client base.
What do you love most about designing shoes? The limitless possibili-
ties of creative treatments.
23_10_FW_Q_A_final.indd 39
Q&A continued from page 15
before us here, hopefully we’ll be able to crack that nut better. If consumers
know us, they love us. But more people need to know us, because we have
a great brand story. On that note, more people are seeing the initiatives
we’ve recently done on social media. We launched a couple of crazy-looking
clogs that even caught the attention of Oprah, who featured our trans-
lucent style in her must haves for spring/summer in her magazine. That
was largely due to our successful social media campaign. Our marketing
team is leaning in on how to get consumers’ attention and inform them
all about Dansko. We followed that up with another successful campaign
featuring our chrome clog. It had the same engagement level. Brie Larsen
even bought them and posted it on her social media feeds.
Any obstacles to fear in reaching your goals?
The biggest obstacle right now is the general lack of confidence retailers have.
They aren’t buying, they’re not buying as much, they don’t know what to buy,
if something gets hot then they’re unable to fill in, etc. While a lot of that is
cyclical, we can’t discount all the distractions going on in the world at large,
which included the murderer who recently escaped from a prison near our
headquarters. We had helicopters hovering over our offices for days. That’s a
distraction. And then there’s next year’s presidential election. Should we all
just give up because we all know those years often stink because consumers are
distracted and don’t shop as much? And what’s it going to be like the following
year? Who knows. External forces are problematic, but we have much more
ability to control what happens within in our industry. And right now, that’s
about making our retailers feel as confident as possible. So when customers
walk into their stores and ask for Dansko, they have it.
What do you love most about your job?
I love the interaction with our retailers. I also love being proud of the brand
that I’m talking to them about. It’s rewarding knowing that we do right by
our partners. We treat them well. I’m proud to be part of Dansko, and I hope
that’s what retailers feel when we work together. •
PUBLISHER’S STATEMENT
1. Publication Title: Footwear Plus. 2. Publication No.: 0006-9750. 3. Filing Date 10/02/23.
4. Issue Frequency: 10 times per year. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 10. 6. Annual
Subscription Price: $48. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: One
Maynard Drive, Suite 2104, Park Ridge, New Jersey, NJ 07656. 8. Complete Mailing Address
of the Headquarters or General Business Office of the Publisher: One Maynard Drive, Suite
2104, Park Ridge, New Jersey, NJ 07656. Contact Person: Noelle Heffernan (201) 571-2244.
9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor:
Publisher: Noelle Heffernan, Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Suite 2104, Park Ridge,
New Jersey, NJ 07656; Editor: Greg Dutter, Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Suite
2104, Park Ridge, New Jersey, NJ 07656; Managing Editor: none. 10. Owner (If owned by
a corporation, its name and address must be stated and also immediately thereafter the
names and addresses of stockholders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount
of stock): Carroll V. Dowden, 13 Cameron Road, Saddle River, NJ 07458; Mark Dowden, 180
Washington Valley Rd., Morristown, NJ 07960, Lebhar Friedman, Inc., 241 Central Park West,
New York, NY 10024. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or
Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None.
12. (For Nonprofit Organizations - Does Not Apply) 13. Publication Name: Footwear Plus. 14.
Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2023 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation.
Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Actual No. Copies of Single Issue
Published Nearest to Filing Date:
a. Total No. Copies : 8,663/8,614
b. Legitimate paid and/or requested distribution:
(1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 6,370/6,134
(2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions: 0/0
(3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, and counter sales:.0/0
(4) Requested copies distributed by other USPS mail classes:.8/12
c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 6,378/6,146
d. Nonrequested distribution:
(1). Outside county nonrequested copies: 1,699/1,993
(2) In County nonrequested copies: 0/0
(3) Nonrequested copies distributed through other USPS mail classes: 0/0
(4). Nonrequested copies distributed outside the mail: 443/300
e. Total nonrequested distribution: 2,142/2,293
f. Total Distribution: 8,520/8,439
g. Copies not distributed: 143/175
h. Total: 8,663/8,614
i: Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 74.9%/72.8%
16. This Statement of Ownership will be printed in the Oct/Nov 2023 issue of
this publication. 17. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete.
I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who
omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions
and/or civil sanctions. Mark V. Dowden, Owner, 9/29/2023
2023 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 39
10/9/23 4:13 PM
 L A S T S HO T Bar None

White Mountain

Zigi

Aerosoles

Steve Madden

French Sole

Geox

Sanctuary

On Point Textural treatments and bows hit the mark

on the classic chic silhouette. Bravo!

40 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2023

23_10_11_FW_LAST_SHOT_final.indd 40 10/7/23 2:49 PM

 CLASSIC
COMFORT.
INSIDE
AND OUT.

Clarks® indoor/outdoor Distributed by

slippers for men,
women and kids info@greenmkt.net
(508) 587-8661
greenmarketservices.com
© 2023 Green Market Services Co., Inc.

FOP OCT NOV 2023.indd 3 10/7/23 4:03 PM

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