TIPS AND TRICKS

ALCOHOL INK
& RESIN
B RO UG H T TO YO U BY
BR IT TA NY F R E E A R T
 INTRODUCTION
Hi! Thank you so much for downloading my eBook! The resin and alcohol ink process is an
addictive one and this book aims to answer all of the questions that I had when I was first
starting out! Is this dangerous? Why is the resin sticky? Why are my molds ripping? The list
goes on and on, so hopefully I can help.

I also highly believe in giving credit where credit is due, and it would be completely unfair
if I didn’t praise the magical Josie Lewis. She is THE reason resin art came alive for me and
her inspiring work is what got me to turn off the Netflix and start creating again!

Alright, let’s start creating!

t ’ s mE
Tha

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
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 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Supply List 4

Supplies Description 5

Working with Resin 8

Prepare Your Workspace 9

Resin + Alcohol Ink Process 10

Finishing Steps 11

Different Effects 12

Color Swatches 14

Troubleshooting 18

Copyright © 2019 by Brittany Free

All photography and design by Brittany Free.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or used in

any manner without written permission of the copyright owner.
B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
WHAT YO U’ L L N EED
A ND WHAT WO U L D B E N I C E TO HAV E

Require d
Resin Mixing Cup

Alcohol Ink Mixing Spoon

White Alcohol Ink Heat Source

Silicone Mold

Extras
Disposable Gloves Weight Scales

Respirator Sandpaper

Precision-Tip Ink Bottles Nail File

Eye Dropper Dremel

Ink Storage Rack Sanding Box

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
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 S UPPLIES
To get started, there are a few key products you’ll need to have. These are all
listed in my Amazon shop here, but you can definitely find great alternatives
in your local arts and crafts store.
RESIN
There are many brands of resin out there, but my favorite by far is Art
Resin. It’s a great product and I’ve only had fabulous results. It’s certified
non-toxic and is not nearly as hazardous as other more industrial resins.
1. Art Resin

1 2
HEAT
You’ll need some form of heat to remove pesky bubbles that will
undoubtedly appear in the resin.
You have a couple options, I actually recommend having both:
2. Heat Gun
3 3. Hand-Held Propane/Butane Torch (Think Crème Brûlée)*

y
Ver nt!
*The torch will also require propane/butane refill canisters

p o r ta
Click
image
A LCO HO L IN K im
for li S I use 3 different brands of colored alcohol ink:
n k to
purch 4. Tim Holtz Ranger
4 5 ase
online 5. Copic Refills
!
6. Jaquard Piñata
7. Jaquard Piñata in White

Piñata white alcohol ink is vital to making the colored ink drop into the
6
resin. It has a higher density than the other colors of alcohol ink and it’s
weight makes the ink sink into the resin creating the beautiful effects—it
makes the magic happen!

tip!
Alcohol inks come in 100s of shades
but you don’t have to buy each one! 7

5
Try mixing inks to create your own
colors at home!
B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
 S U P P LIE S CO NT INU E D
M OL D S
1 2
Next up, you’ll need glossy silicone molds. Molds that are matte will
produce a matte end product. There are endless options when it comes
to choosing these and you’ll find most of them listed under baking on
Amazon and Etsy or even at your local homegoods store! There are also
plastic molds available for creating smaller pieces such as pendants and
earrings. It’s a little more difficult to remove resin from plastic but as
long as the piece is fully hardened, you should be able to pop it right out.
1. 6" Silicone Cake Mold
2. 4" Silicone Crème Brûlée Mold 3

M IX ING C U PS AN D S PO O NS
Using plastic measuring cups and either a silicone or plastic mixing
spoon will make the clean-up process much easier.
3. Plastic Mixing Spoon
4. Plastic Mixing Cup 7

4 6 P r ot e c t
C L E A N-UP those
Brain Ce
You’ll need to protect your work surface from the resin that will l ls !
undoubtedly drop. I recommend either a shower curtain or silicone mat. 5 8
5. Plastic Shower Curtain or Plastic Adhesive Roll
6. Isopropyl Alcohol to Clean Spoon
7. Nitrile Gloves

SA F E T Y
While I recommend using Art Resin which has no VOCs, I still

t ip!
recommend wearing a respirator. Though Art Resin may be safe (please
note that NOT all brands of resin are), alcohol ink has a lot of fumes and
if you’re not in a well ventilated room, you can get a headache in a hurry.
In order to clean your mixing cup, let the
Best to be on the safe side!
leftover resin cure in the cup for one to two
8. Respirator Mask

6
days. Once cured, you’ll be able to cleanly
pull out the excess resin.
B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
 S U P P LIE S CO NT INU E D
EXTRAS
These are the items that aren’t absolutely necessary, but they can make
the process a little easier and more efficient.
1. Precision-Tip Ink Bottles (For mixing your own inks)
2. Eye Dropper (For using larger containers of alcohol ink)
3. Ink Storage Rack (AKA nail polish storage)
4. Dremel (For removing unwanted ink from your art)
5. Sandpaper (For prepping resin for second coat)
6. Nail File (For sanding off those sharp edges)
7. DIY Sanding Box (To keep the resin dust in an enclosed area)
8. Scales (For weighing and measuring resin precisely)
9. Tiny Nail (For removing anything that falls in the resin)
10. Silicone (For creating different effects)

1 2 3 4

5 6 7

t ip!
8 9 10
B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
To build my own DIY sanding box,
I followed the instructions found here. 7
WO RKING WIT H R ES IN
Before you can start the fun part of applying alcohol ink to the resin, you need to know how to work with resin first!

1 WA R M B ATH 2 TEM PERATU RE 3 POUR

To avoid micro bubbles from forming
in the resin, I place my containers in a
sink of warm water and let them sit for
15–20 minutes. When you remove them
from the sink, make sure you wipe off all
excess water from the containers.
Make sure the room you are working in
is at least 70°F (21°C). If the room is too
cold, the resin will form microbubbles
while curing.
Pour equal parts hardener and resin into
your mixing cup. If your cup does not have
measurement lines, I recommend using
a small scale to ensure you pour equal
measurements of the resin and hardener.
If you use a brand besides Art Resin, make
sure to check the required measurements.

4 M IX I N G 5 CLE A R RESIN 6 PR OTECTI ON

Mix slowly. Very slowly! Mixing too
fast will introduce more air bubbles
to the resin. I typically stir for at least
four minutes—despite what the resin
instructions may say.
As you mix, you will notice foggy
ribbons throughout the resin. You will
know the resin is thoroughly mixed
when the ribbons disappear and the
resin is completely clear. Make sure to
scrape the sides and bottom of your
container thoroughly.
Though a respirator is not required while
working with Art Resin, I still recommend
using one to be on the safe side. The
alcohol ink can be very harsh so the
respirator will protect you from these
fumes as well.

7 CLE A NU P
After you're finished, turn your resin cup upside down onto a plastic or silicone mat. Once the

tip!
Do not let any water contaminate the
resin. One tiny drop of water will keep
the resin from curing properly.
resin cures (give it at least 24 hours), you’ll be able to peel the resin out of the cup. If your
silicone molds need cleaning, you can do so with soapy water or alcohol. Just make sure the
mold is thoroughly dry before pouring resin into it again.
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P REPARE YOUR WOR K SPAC E
Get all your ducks in a row!

P R E PA R AT I O N:

1 Protect your working surface with

plastic sheeting, a plastic shower 5
curtain, or a silicone mat. 6

7
2 Apply gloves and a respirator. 8 9
1
3 Set up your working station with
the inks, molds, heat gun, and any
2 3
additives you plan to use.

4
4 Remove the caps of each alcohol
ink bottle and test to make sure
the nozzle is not clogged.

12
5 Make sure the room is at least
10 11 14 15
70°F (21°C). 13

tip!
MY T Y PI CAL WORKSPACE
1 Resin | 2 Isopropyl alcohol | 3 White Piñata alcohol ink | 4 Eye dropper | 5 Mixing spoon | 6 Mixing cup | 7 Scales
8 Heat gun | 9 Respirator | 10 Alcohol inks premixed with white | 11 Alcohol inks | 12 Color swatches | 13 Nitrile gloves
If your molds are still cold to the touch, 14 Silicone molds | 15 Rag or paper towels
try using your heat gun (not torch) to
warm the mold up before pouring the

9
resin. This will prevent extra bubbles
from forming in the resin.
B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
RE SIN + ALCOHOL IN K P R O C E S S
You’ve finally made it to the fun part!
P R OC E S S :
1 Prepare resin (full directions on page 8).
Begin by pouring the resin into the mold
in thin layers approximately 1/8" to 1/4"
deep. After each layer, use your heat
gun to pop any microbubbles that may
have appeared. If you only have a torch,
be extra careful around the edges of the
mold. The intense heat from a torch can
melt the mold.
4 Begin by dropping one drop of colored
alcohol ink followed by one drop of white
alcohol ink in the same spot. This is where
you get to let your creativity shine with
colors and placement of the alcohol ink.
It’s VERY easy to go overboard with the
white ink so if you’re just beginning, I
suggest starting using less ink.
2 Pour to desired thickness. If you’re working
on pieces with a larger width/diameter (6"+)
I do not recommend pouring more than 1”
deep at once. Pouring too much resin at once
can cause a dangerous exothermic reaction
where the resin becomes very hot and puts
off hazardous fumes.
5 Just like a scientist would, record your
process! Record:
• The amount of time passed between
pouring the resin and applying the alcohol
ink
• The number of drops of alcohol ink added
This way you know what to change or
replicate the next time around.
B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
3 When your resin is clear of bubbles you’re
ready to drop in the alcohol ink. You can wait
30 seconds or 30 minutes to drop your ink
into the resin. This is totally up to you! The
amount of time you wait will cause the ink to
react differently within the resin. I’ve detailed
this further on page 12.
6 Once you’re done dropping in your ink, cover
the piece so dust doesn’t land in the wet
resin. I suggest waiting 24 hours to remove
the cured resin from the mold, but the time
can vary depending on the temperature of
the room. In the summer, the resin cures in
12–16 hours, however, in the winter, it can
sometimes take 24–28 hours. I know it‘s
like Christmas morning when it comes to
unmolding, but the longer you can wait the
better the results!
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FINISHING S T EPS
Steps for adding one additional coat of resin.

WHY A D D A TO P COAT? A PPLY ING A TOP COAT

Once the resin has cured and you’ve removed it from the mold, you
may decide to add a top coat of resin for several reasons:
1. The resin picked up imperfections from the mold, which you can
eliminate by adding a top coat.
2. Too much white ink dropped and you want to sand it out. After
sanding, you’ll need to apply a top coat of resin to make it glossy
again.
3. You just prefer the look of glossy perfection that a top coat adds!
1. Sanding the sides of your piece adds some tooth to ensure that the top
coat has something to grip onto. It’s not necessary to sand the top unless
you want to eliminate any unwanted ink that has dropped. Sand off any
sharp edges with a nail file.
2. Wash the dust off and dry the piece thoroughly.
3. Apply masking or painters tape to the bottom edge of the piece. This
ensures that the resin will not drip onto the bottom of your piece.
4. Take a cup with a smaller diameter than your artwork and turn it upside
down. Place the resin piece on top so that it is not resting directly on the
table.
5. Prepare resin (directions on page 8) and begin pouring on the top coat.
Make sure the sides are completely coated as well.
6. Using a blowtorch, eliminate any bubbles that pop up. You can use a heat
gun here but it isn’t as effective.
7. Cover your artwork so that no dust can land in your perfect top coat!
8. Wait at least 24 hours to carefully remove the tape. Let the piece sit
covered for two more days until it’s fully cured.

t ip!
After applying the topcoat, I typically
Click fo babysit the artwork for about an hour.
r
l i n k to v I’ll cover it and then uncover every 20
ideo!

11
minutes or so to continue popping any
bubbles that arise. I’ll also check for
B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T dust which I remove with a tiny nail.
D IFFEREN T EF F ECT S
Applying additives, mixing inks, and changing variables—such as time—can all add different effects to your finished product.

J UST WA IT
Try waiting for 20–30 minutes before you apply the alcohol
ink. At this point, the resin has begun to cure and the ink
won’t drop nearly as much.

1. The ink was dropped into the resin right after

pouring into the mold.

2. The same amount of ink was dropped into the

resin 30 minutes after pouring into the mold.

1 2

The se
cret sa
i f you uce,
will
A D D SIL ICONE
One drop of silicone added into the resin will
cause the alcohol ink to quickly disperse from
the area. My preferred type of silicone is bicycle
lubricant. Remember, a little goes a long way!

3. 4 drops of colored ink + 4 drops of white ink

followed by 1 drop of silicone in the center.

4. 8 drops of colored ink + 8 drops of white ink

repeated 3 times. Then 1 drop of silicone was placed
3 4 in the center.

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
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 D I F F E R E NT E F F EC T S CO NT INU E D

AD D RESIN
After dropping alcohol ink into the resin, try pouring in more
resin on top of the ink! This will create a billowy, cloud-like effect.
You can tint the resin with ink or acrylic paint too!

If you wait 30-45 minutes to pour in the extra resin, it will create
a “tube” effect because the resin has begun to cure and will hold
its shape as you pour it in.

1. 4 drops of colored ink + 4 drops of white ink repeated 3 times.

Then, extra resin (tinted with teal acrylic paint) was poured on
top of the alcohol ink.
1 2
2. 4 drops of colored ink + 4 drops of white ink repeated 3 times.
After 30-45 minutes, the clear extra resin was poured on top.

M IX IN THE WH I TE
Rather than dropping 1 drop of color and then 1 drop of white
each time, try mixing the inks together in your own ink bottles (page 7)!
I started with a ratio of 1:1. One drop of white for every one drop of color.
This creates a heavier ink that will drop into the resin creating
some awesome effects. Try different ratios as well!

3. The piece on the left uses the method of dropping colored ink followed
by dropping white ink.

3 4 4. The piece on the right uses the method of premixing the white and
colored ink in a precision-tip ink bottle (page 7) before dropping into
resin.

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
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CO LOR S WATC H E S
JACQ UA R D PI Ñ ATA ALCO H O L INK

CHILI PEPPER CALABAZA ORANGE TANGERINE SUNBRIGHT LIME GREEN RAINFOREST

YELLOW GREEN

BAJA BLUE SAPPHIRE BLUE PASSION PURPLE SENORITA MAGENTA SANGRIA HAVANA BROWN

MANTILLA BLACK SHADOW GRAY SILVER (METALLIC) GOLD (METALLIC)

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+ WHITE PIÑATA INK + WHITE PIÑATA INK

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
CO LOR S WATC H E S
R A NGE R TI M H O LTZ ALCO HO L INK

CRANBERRY POPPYFIELD CORAL WATERMELON FLAMINGO PINK SHERBERT

SHELL PINK SUNSET ORANGE HONEYCOMB BUTTERSCOTCH DANDELION SUNSHINE

YELLOW

WILLOW CITRUS LETTUCE BOTANICAL PATINA PISTACHIO

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
 CO LOR S WATC H E S
R A NGE R TI M H O LTZ ALCO HO L INK

CLOUDY BLUE POOL MERMAID STREAM SAILBOAT INDIGO

PURPLE TWILIGHT AMETHYST WILD PLUM EGGPLANT TEAKWOOD ESPRESSO

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
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 CO LOR S WATC H E S
COP IC A LCO H O L I N K

BOUGAINVILLEA FLESH RASPBERRY VIOLET SLATE COOL GRAY No.9

ICE BLUE FOREST GREEN MISTLETOE NILE GREEN BRONZE AGATE

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
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TROU B LES HOOT IN G
I GOT R E S I N O N MY H AN DS!
Mix dishsoap and baking soda (about a quarter-size amount of each) in your
dry hands. Scrub together and rinse! Try to avoid solvents such as alcohol or
paint thinner. These solvents will start to break down the resin and your skin
ends up absorbing it.
I S P ILT R E S I N E VE RY WH E R E!
Don’t panic! Scrape as much of the resin off of the surface using a metal or
plastic scraper. Any remaining residue can be cleaned using acetone, alcohol,
or paint thinner.
MY R E S IN H AS A M I L L I O N M ICRO B U B B L E S.
NOT COO L .
Pesky microbubbles can appear due to a number of reasons
• First, make sure you’re not mixing the resin too quickly. Go SLOW.
• Next, make sure you’re mixing your resin in a warm room of at least
70°F (21°C).
• If your resin was stored in a cool area, try placing the containers in a warm
sink bath for 20 minutes before mixing.
TOO M UC H I N K D RO PPE D TO THE SU RFACE .
C A N I R E MOVE TH I S ?
After your resin has cured and you remove it from the mold, you may notice
unattractive blotches of white ink that have dropped to the surface. Using a
belt sander or a dremel you can remove the white blotches. I have carved out
huge chunks in my pieces with a dremel, and the top coat will magically fill it
all in again. After sanding, make sure you wash the piece and eliminate all dust.
Once it’s completely dry, you can add a top coat of resin to make it just like
new again!
B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
MY RESIN IS S TI CK Y AND I T S H OULD BE
FU LLY CU RED BY NOW. WH AT H APPENED?
This can happen for several different reasons.
• The first thing to check is your measurements. You should pour equal parts
of resin and hardener if using Art Resin, but other brands may call for
different ratios.
• Make sure you are thoroughly mixing the resin and hardener. The mixture
should be 100% clear with no more remaining “ribbons.”
• Also make sure that there is no possibility of water contaminating your
resin. One drop of water can make it cure improperly.
MY RESIN IS S MOKI NG . AH H H H!
If you’ve poured your resin too thick, an uncontrolled exothermic reaction can
occur. Resin heating out of control can foam, smoke, give off dangerous vapors
and generate enough heat to melt its container, or cause nearby items to catch
fire. If this happens, swiftly—but calmly—take your resin container outside and
let it complete the curing process there.
MY M O LD RIPPED AND I’M SUPER SAD.
If you’re using a handheld butane torch to eliminate the microbubbles within
the resin, you probably got the flame too close to the silicone mold. The flame
will melt the mold and cause the resin to stick once cured. To avoid this, I
recommend only using a heat gun when working with resin in a mold.
I WA NT TO SA N D MY PI ECES , BUT I DON’T
WA NT TO GET DUST EVER Y WH ER E!
Build a sanding box! I followed the directions found here.
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 HAVE ANY MORE QUE STIONS ?
If something still isn’t clear, you have ideas, or you’d like to provide a review, let me know!
Shoot me an email at:

H E L LO @ B R I T TAN Y F R E E A R T.CO M

B R I T TA N Y F R E E AR T.CO M

B R IT TA NY F R E E A R T
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