Phaedra Tutorial 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

Phaedra© Chain Maille Captured Rivoli Unit Tutorial
Created by: Karen Snyder of O. Sebastian Chainmaille Creations
This tutorial is copyrighted material and all rights and design ownership remain with the author. Only
the person who has purchased this tutorial may produce and sell pieces made using this design tutorial.
This tutorial may not be loaned, taught or reproduced, in part or in full, in any manner (electronic,
photocopying, print, video / audio recording or otherwise) without prior written authorization of the
author. Purchasing this tutorial entitles the purchaser to produce physical items for personal use, as gifts
or for sale in small quantities under the name Phaedra© and credit must be given to the designer. The
tutorial remains the intellectual property of Karen Snyder of O. Sebastian Chainmaille Creations, all
rights reserved. Mass production of the finished product is prohibited.
***PLEASE NOTE*** All testing and finished Phaedra© units were created using cut rings from C&T
Designs, 4756 N. Chestnut Street, Colorado Springs, CO 80907. You can find them on the web at:
www.candtdesigns.com . Cut rings vary from manufacturer to manufacture, regardless of the ID
(internal diameter) quoted by said manufacturers. C&T’s product has proven the most reliable and
consistent and that consistency is critical to the success of producing the Phaedra© unit. The rings sizes
and specs given in this tutorial reflect only C&T rings and successful reproduction is not guaranteed if
rings from other manufacturers are used. C&T Designs is the only authorized manufacturer of Phaedra©
ring packs.
Phaedra© Tutorial, Copyright 2015 by Karen Snyder, All Rights Reserved Page 1
Phaedra© Materials List: You will need two pairs of pliers with smooth jaws (no teeth or serrations) and
a basic working knowledge of opening and closing jump rings.
6mm rivoli or chaton

Base ring: (1) 19g SWG 7/32” Base ring: (1) 18g AWG 15/64
Surrounds: (16) 20g 5/32” Surrounds: (16) 20g 5/32”
Connectors: (4) 20g 5/32” Connectors: (4) 20g 5/32”
Cinch rings: (4) 20g 3/16” Cinch rings: (4) 20g 3/16”
(1)6mm Swarovski rivoli or chaton (1) 6mm Swarovski rivoli or chaton
8mm rivoli or chaton

Base Ring: (1) 19g SWG 9/32” Base Ring: (1) 18g AWG 9/32”
Surrounds: (16) 19g SWG 3/16” Surrounds: (16) 18g AWG 3/16”
Connectors: (4) 19g SWG 3/16” OR Connectors: (4) 18g AWG 3/16”
Cinch Rings: (4) 19g SWG ¼” Cinch Rings: (4) 18g AWG ¼”
(1) 8mm Swarovski rivoli or chaton (1) 8mm Swarovski rivoli or chaton
10.5mm rivoli
Cinch Rings: (4) 18g SWG 5/16” Cinch Ring: (4) 16g AWG 21/64”
(1) 10.5mm Swarovski rivoli (1) 10.5mm Swarovski rivoli
12mm rivoli
Surrounds: (20) 18g SWG ¼” Surrounds: (20) 16g AWG ¼”
Connectors: (5) 18g SWG ¼” OR Connectors: (5) 16g AWG ¼”
Cinch Rings: (5) 18g SWG 5/16” Cinch Rings: (5) 16g AWG 5/16”
(1) 12mm Swarovski rivoli (1) 12mm Swarovski rivoli
STAINLESS STEEL 12mm

Base Ring: (1) 16g SWG 3/8”
Surrounds: (20) 18g SWG ¼”
Connectors: (5) 18g SWG ¼”
Cinch Rings: (5) 18g SWG 9/32”
(1)12mm Swarovski rivoli
14mm rivoli
Surrounds: (20) 18g SWG ¼” Surrounds: (20) 16g AWG 17/64”
Connectors: (5) 18g SWG ¼” OR Connectors: (5) 16g AWG 17/64”
(1)14mm Swarovski rivoli (1) 14mm Swarovski rivoli
STAINLESS STEEL 14MM – Please read 14mm notes at the end of the tutorial!
Base Ring: (1) 16g SWG 3/8”

Surrounds: (20) 18g SWG 9/32”
Connectors: (5) 18g SWG 9/32”
Cinch Rings: (5) 18g SWG 5/16”
(1)14mm Swarovski rivoli
16mm rivoli
Base ring: (1)16g SWG ½” Base ring: (1) 14g AWG ½”
Surrounds: (24) 18g SWG 15/64” OR Surrounds: (24) 16g AWG ¼”
Connectors: (6) 18g SWG 15/64” Connectors: (6) 16g AWG ¼”
18mm rivoli
Base ring: (1) 16g SWG 5/8” (or 14g SWG 5/8”) Base ring: (1) 14g AWG 5/8”
Cinch Rings: (7) 18g SWG ¼” Cinch Rings: (7) 16g AWG 21/64”
***PLEASE NOTE*** Please take a moment to read the notes section at the end of the picture tutorial
for specifics, hints and tips for making each individual size of Phaedra©. These will make the
construction process much easier and less frustrating.
Let’s begin! The example shown is constructed in all niobium SWG using a 10.5mm Swarovski rivoli.
Step 1: Assemble your materials. In the picture below, you will see that I have separated the materials
out into sections. The base ring and cinch rings are the same size (in this example, 18g SWG 5/16”) and
the surrounds and connectors are the same size (in this example, 18g SWG 15/64”. I have used different
colors for each section to make the construction process easier to follow.
Step 2: Close eight (8) of the smaller rings from the surrounds section and open all of the rest.
Step 3: Using all of the rings from the surrounds section, weave four (4) pieces of 2-in-2 chain.
Step 4: Thread one pair of rings from each section of 2-in-2 chain onto the base ring.
Step 5: Close the base ring. You should have something that looks like this:
Step 6: Take the first piece of 2-in-2 chain and flip the top pair down, one ring on either side of the pair
connected to the base ring, just as you would when making Byzantine.
Step 7: Thread a connector ring through the pair of flipped-down rings.
Step 8: Flip down the top rings of the adjoining section of 2-in-2 chain and thread the connector ring
from Step 6 through them, thus “connecting” the two sections. Close the ring and you should have
something that looks like this:
Step 9: Repeat the process from steps 6 and 7 until you have used three connector rings. Do not add the
fourth connector ring yet.
Step 10: Insert the rivoli into the piece by sliding it between the pairs of flipped rings. It will want to slide
around but it should sit in there without any tension from the surround rings.
Step 11: Add the fourth connector ring exactly as you did before. The rivoli will likely pop out a couple of
times. This is normal, so don’t get frustrated. (After chasing dozens of rivolis around my work room, I
have concluded that rivolis are so slippery that they must contain butter!) Hold your off-hand thumb
over the rivoli as you thread the connector ring through the surround rings with your dominant hand,
then set the piece down on your work surface to close the ring. I have found that this cuts down on the
amount of time I spend searching for rivolis that went flying out of my hands.
Once you have closed the fourth connector ring, the rivoli will be loosely captured but can still pop out
of the setting. The rivoli is held in place by the “surround” rings that are held together with the
“connector” rings. At this point, the base ring is completely covered by the rivoli. It should look
something like this:
Step 12: The cinch rings will lie over the connector rings added in the previous steps and will thread
through the surround ring pairs that are attached to the base ring.
Step 13: Hold the unit on its side (edge up) with your off-hand thumb holding the rivoli securely in place.
Thread the cinch ring (in this example, 18g SWG 5/16”) up through one half of a pair of surround rings
attached to the base ring then down through the closest half of the adjoining pair of surround rings. As
you can see in the pictures, the cinch ring lays over the connector ring. Lay the unit down on your work
surface and close the cinch ring, keeping the ring angled toward the center. Do not forcefully pull the
two ends of the ring together as this will cause the rings on the bottom of the unit to overlap and pull
the entire structure out of alignment. Once it is closed, your unit should look like the picture below on
the right.
Step 14: Repeat step 12 with the remaining cinch rings, working around the rivoli until you have all four
cinch rings in place. Congratulations! You have just completed your first Phaedra©!
***PLEASE NOTE*** If you have difficulty seating and closing all four cinch rings, check the bottom of
your Phaedra© and compare it to the photo below. If the rings are overlapping, you will need to take
the piece apart to the point where you can remove the rivoli, then put it back in place and continue
forward again. Overlapping rings are caused by pulling too forcefully on the cinch rings when closing
them and / or not keeping them angled toward the rivoli while closing them.
8mm Phaedra© Notes: The 8mm Phaedra© is completed the same way as previously shown but there
are a few things worth noting.
1. The 8mm version works up a bit more loosely in the beginning steps. It is recommended that
you weave all four connector rings and then insert the rivoli. If you are using all stainless steel or
bronze, this will not work. You will need to insert the rivoli before adding the fourth connector
ring.
2. The 8mm version has a higher tendency for the rivoli to pop out so handle it carefully until you
have woven in and closed the first two cinch rings.
3. The completed 8mm version can be tightened significantly by using a stainless steel or bronze
AWG 9/32” ring as your base ring. If you choose this option, you will need to insert the rivoli
before weaving and closing the fourth connector ring.
Phaedra© 8mm earrings in light rose and Argentium silver
Phaedra© 8mm earrings in crystal AB, rainbow niobium & Argentium silver
12mm & 14mm Phaedra Notes: The 12mm & 14mm Phaedra© are completed the same way as
previously shown with a few small differences.
1. The 12mm & 14mm versions use five (5) sections of 2 in 2 chain in the surrounds instead of
four (4). Construction method and steps are still completed in the same order.
2. The 12mm & 14mm versions are larger and heavier than the 10.5mm version but the
balance of the overall piece remains the same.
3. Since there are five sections in the surrounds, the look of the face of the piece is still
symmetrical but differs from the smaller units due to the odd number of cinch rings framing
the rivoli. Please remember this when attaching the unit to a bail or other findings.
4. The rings on the bottom of the 12mm & 14mm Phaedra© will overlap slightly. This is simply
a product of the number of rings and size of the base ring and is normal – it does not affect
the finished product or structure as it does in the 10.5 and 8mm versions.
5. If you are making the 14mm Phaedra© in stainless steel, please note that there will be
some “play” or movement in the finished piece. The rivoli will be perfectly stable and will
not come out of the setting but there will be more movement in the rings than in any
other version of Phaedra©. If you are using rings from anywhere other than C&T Designs,
you will have to adjust at least one of the ring sizes in order to cinch the unit properly.
12mm Phaedra© pendant in Peacock Eye 14mm Phaedra© left is BA, right is silver fill
and five colors of niobium
16mm Phaedra© Notes: The 16mm Phaedra© is completed using the same steps as all the others,
with a few minor differences.
1. The 16mm Phaedra© uses six (6) sections of 2 in 2 chain in the surrounds. Construction method
and steps are still completed in the same order as smaller units.
2. The 16mm unit will have a larger open space on the back of the piece, therefore, tumbling
becomes a different situation. They can still be tumbled but you will need to protect the back of
the rivoli during the tumbling process. I use a piece of painter’s tape, folded over until it is
slightly larger than the opening and several thicknesses of tape deep. You may have to use your
pliers to nudge the edges under the rings on the back but once it is in place, it should be thick
enough to stay in place snugly. Then tumble as usual, for an hour or so, and remove the tape
pad once the piece is finished tumbling.
3. The 16mm version has a much larger opening to accommodate the larger rivoli, so you will find
it easier to add and close all six (6) connector rings before adding the rivoli. The rivoli can still
pop out of the setting until you have added at least three (3) cinch rings. You might find it best
to add the cinch rings in a staggered pattern (add a cinch ring, skip one section, add the next,
skip one section, add a third cinch ring and then fill in between them) for less frustration and
cussing.
4. Once you have completed the 16mm Phaedra© you will need to turn the unit over and make
sure no rings overlap on the bottom. If they are overlapping, simply use your chain nose pliers to
gently pull them toward the outer edge of the piece so that they all lay side by side.
16mm Phaedra© top is Argentium silver, bottom is bright aluminum
18mm Phaedra© Notes: The 18mm Phaedra© is completed using the same steps as all the others, with
a few minor differences.
1. The 18mm Phaedra© uses seven (7) sets of 2 in 2 chain in the surrounds. Construction method
and steps are still completed in the same order as the smaller units.
2. The 18mm Phaedra© behaves very differently than all smaller units due to the size of the rivoli.
The middle of the unit has a much larger opening, therefore, it is much easier for the rivoli to
pop out until you have set the fourth (4th) cinch ring.
3. Add all seven of the connector rings before adding the rivoli. This will save you a lot of
frustration but the rivoli will still pop out very easily. I find it easiest to leave the unit laying on
my work surface while I work around the perimeter adding the cinch rings.
4. As with the 16mm version, you might find it less frustrating to add the cinch rings in a staggered
pattern to keep the rivoli from continually popping out. Once you have the 4th cinch ring in
place, the unit should become easier to work with.
5. Once you have completed the 18mm Phaedra© you will need to turn the unit over and make
sure no rings overlap on the bottom. If they are overlapping, simply use your chain nose pliers to
gently pull them toward the outer edge of the piece so that they all lay side by side.
6. Once you have completed the unit, you might see that it looks like it leans to one side or the
other. Again, this is due to the size of the rivoli and the size of the opening. If you push inward
on the rings that lay over the rivoli on the front while pulling slightly on the bottom rings with
your fingers, you should see the unit right itself and become symmetrical easily.
7. The 18mm unit will have a larger open space on the back of the piece, therefore, tumbling
becomes a different situation. They can still be tumbled but you will need to protect the back of
the rivoli during the tumbling process. I use a piece of painter’s tape, folded over until it is
slightly larger than the opening and several thicknesses of tape deep. You may have to use your
pliers to nudge the edges under the rings on the back but once it is in place, it should be thick
enough to stay in place snugly. Then tumble as usual, for an hour or so, and remove the tape
pad once the piece is finished tumbling.
8. The Materials List shows a 16g SWG 5/8” ring OR a 14g SWG 5/8 ring for the base ring. The 16g
ring will work nicely in all of the base metals EXCEPT for bright aluminum, where it tends to
pull apart. When purchasing materials, I suggest using the 14g ring if you are making the unit
in bright aluminum.
18mm Phaedras© top left is BA, top right is Argentium silver, bottom is niobium
GENERAL NOTES:
1. The Phaedra© unit operates with very tight tolerances and torque can cause the base ring or
surrounds / connectors to come open. To avoid this problem, open your cinch rings with the left
side toward you and the right side away from you. When closing the cinch rings, make sure to
angle the ring toward the stone and bring the closure toward the stone, rather than toward the
outer edge of the piece.
2. Many users have found success by inserting all four cinch rings before closing them.
3. If you are having difficulty keeping the rivoli in the unit while closing cinch rings, try using a thin
strip of painter’s tape across the top and down the sides. Put in the cinch rings on opposite sides
of the piece, then move the painter’s tape and put in the remaining cinch rings.
4. For 12mm units and larger, Phaedra© will require a different set of specs for stainless steel.
5. SWG sizes apply to base metals, AWG sizes apply to precious metals. Niobium is considered and
sized as a base metal.
***SPECIAL NOTE***
I have tumbled every Phaedra© that I have made. I’ve used stainless steel shot, burnishing compound, a
drop of dish washing liquid and water. The bottom of the Phaedra© unit protects the foil backs of the
rivolis so well that I have yet to find one damaged after tumbling. Having said that, these only need to
tumble for 1 - 2 hours, which gives them a nice polish and cleaning and smooths out any light tool marks
and / or burrs. Do not tumble any Phaedra© with any treatment or coating on the top surface as this
will most certainly be damaged by the tumbling process.

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Phaedra Tutorial 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

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Phaedra© Chain Maille Captured Rivoli Unit Tutorial

Created by: Karen Snyder of O. Sebastian Chainmaille Creations

6mm rivoli or chaton

8mm rivoli or chaton

STAINLESS STEEL 12mm

Base Ring: (1) 16g SWG 3/8”

Phaedra© 8mm earrings in light rose and Argentium silver

16mm Phaedra© top is Argentium silver, bottom is bright aluminum

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