Masonry Final

SIBUGAY TECHNICAL INSTITUTE INCORPORATED
Lower Taway, Ipil, Zamboanga Sibugay

www.sibugaytech.edu.ph
alface01@yahoo.com
TLE 2
MASONRY
LEARNER’S MODULE FOR

FINAL
TEACHER CONTACT NO.

COURSE
VERGELIO F. COLI JR. 09368773022
BTVTED
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TABLE OF CONTENT
UNIT COVERAGE
LESSON 1 (week -2): selection and use of appropriate PPE… 2-13
LESSON 2 (Week 3-4) perform laying brick/block for structure…13-22
Week 4 (Unit Examination)
PRELIM COVERAGE
LESSON 3-4 (Week 5 - 6): Reinforcement bars/dowel Size… 23-37
Week 7 (Prelim Examination)
MIDTERM COVERAGE
LESSON 5 -6 (Week 8-10): Brick/block laying procedures…38-58
Week 11 (Midterm Examination)
PRE-FINAL COVERAGE
LESSON 7 (WEEK 12): OHS regulations… 58-62
LESSON 8(WEEK 13-14) Perform laying brick/block for structure…63-71
Week 15 (Pre-final examination)
FINAL COVERAGE
LESSON 9-10 (Week 17-16) Mensuration to perform laying brick/block for structure…72-115
Week 18 (Final Examination)

Reference ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 117
CHED Accredit Courses ----------------------------------------------------------------- 118
STII Training Center -----------------------------------------------------------------------119
Senior High School Voucher Program -----------------------------------------------120
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SELECTION AND USE OF APPROPRIATE PPE
LESSON 1 Week 1-2
Learning Objectives: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU
MUST be able to:
1. Select the proper PPE as per job required.
2. Select and use PPE consistent with job requirements.
Learning outcomes: Selection and use of appropriate Personal Protective
Equipment.
Learning Activity: Selecting and using of appropriate Personal Protective
Equipment.
Introduction:
Hazards exist in every workplace in many different forms: sharp edges,
falling objects, flying sparks, chemicals, noise and a myriad of other
potentially dangerous situations. The Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA) requires that employers protect their employees
from workplace hazards that can cause injury.
Detailed Information:
Personal protective equipment (PPE) refers to protective clothing,
helmets, goggles, or other garments or equipment designed to protect the
wearer's body from injury. The hazards addressed by protective
equipment include physical, electrical, heat, chemicals, biohazards, and
airborne particulate matter. Protective equipment may be worn for job-
related occupational safety and health purposes, as well as for sports and
other recreational activities. "Protective clothing" is applied to traditional
categories of clothing, and "protective gear" applies to items such as pads,
guards, shields, or masks, and others.
The purpose of personal protective equipment is to reduce employee
exposure to hazards when engineering and administrative controls are
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not feasible or effective to reduce these risks to acceptable levels. PPE is
needed when there are hazards present. PPE has the serious limitation
that it does not eliminate the hazard at source and may result in
employees being exposed to the hazard if the equipment fails.
Types of PPE:
 Hearing protection
 Head protection
 Eye protection
 Foot protection
 Hand and arm protection
 Body protection
 Respiratory protection
What is Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)?
PPE is defined in the Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations
as: ‘All equipment (including clothing affording protection against the
weather) which is intended to be worn or held by a person at work which
protects them against one or more risks to their health and safety’. PPE
includes equipment such as safety footwear, hard hats, high visibility
waistcoats, goggles, life jackets, respirators and safety harnesses.
Waterproof, weatherproof, or insulated clothing is subject to the
Regulations only if its use is necessary to protect employees against
adverse climatic conditions that could otherwise affect their health and
safety.
Legal duties and obligations around PPE.
The Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations 1992 These
regulations seeks to ensure that where the risks cannot be controlled by
other means, Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is correctly selected
and used. The Regulations do not apply where requirements are detailed
in other regulations e.g. respirators in the Control of Substances
Hazardous to Health Regulations (COSHH).
Who should pay for PPE?
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If items of Personal Protective Equipment are required they must be
provided free of charge by the employer.
When to use PPE
PPE must always be regarded as a ‘last resort’ to protect against risks to
safety and health. Engineering controls and safe systems of work must
always be considered first. For example, it may be possible to do the job
using methods that will not require the use of PPE. If this is not possible,
more effective safeguards should be put in place. For example, fixed
screens could be provided rather than individual eye protection. There
are a number of reasons why PPE must be considered as a ‘last resort’:
 PPE only protects the person wearing it, whereas measures controlling
the risk at source protect everyone in the workplace
 Theoretical maximum levels of protection are difficult to achieve and
the actual level of protection is difficult to assess. Effective protection is
only achieved by selecting suitable PPE and if it is correctly fitted,
maintained and used
 PPE may restrict the wearer to some extent by limiting mobility or
visibility, or by requiring additional weight to be carried. Thus creating
additional hazards.
Assessing and choosing PPE

The need for PPE must be identified through Risk Assessment. For
example, a Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) risk
assessment may show that gloves are required when using the substance
being.
Assessed. As with all risk assessments, those carrying them out must be
competent to do so. In addition to identifying the need for PPE, it is
essential that the right type and grade of PPE is specified and provided.
The various standards for PPE (e.g. hard hats EN397) are too numerous
to list here on this website. Within the standards there may also be
various subdivisions to denote the standard of protection or type (e.g. ear
muffs/defenders EN352-1, ear plugs EN352-2, helmet mounted
muffs/defender EN352-3). Since 1 July 1995, all new PPE must be ‘CE’
marked. The CE mark signifies that the PPE satisfies certain
basic/minimum safety requirements.
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Suitability of PPE
To be able to choose the right type of PPE, the hazards involved in the
task or work environment must be considered carefully. PPE must also
meet the needs of the individual.
The following factors should be considered when assessing the suitability
of PPE: is the PPE appropriate for the risk involved and conditions at the
place where exposure may occur?
e.g. goggles are not suitable when full-face protection is required does
the PPE prevent or adequately control the risks involved without
increasing the overall risk?
e.g. gloves should not be worn when using a pillar drill, due to the
increased risk of entanglement can the PPE be adjusted to fit the wearer
correctly?
e.g. if a person wears glasses, ear defenders may not provide a proper
seal to protect against noise hazards has the state of health of those
using it been taken into account? What are the needs of the job and the
demands it places on the wearer?
How long will the PPE need to be worn? What are the requirements for
visibility and communication? if more than one item of PPE is being
worn, are they compatible? For example, does a particular type of
respirator make it difficult for eye protection to fit properly?
Information, instruction and training on PPE use

Where PPE is provided, employees must be provided with adequate
information,
Instruction and/or training on its use.
The extent of information, instruction and/or training will vary with the
Complexity and performance of the kit. For example, a full Breathing
Apparatus
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Kit will require more training to use properly than a disposable face
mask.
Information and instruction should cover:
The risk(s) present and why the PPE is needed
The operation (including demonstration), performance and limitations of
the equipment use and storage (including how to put it on, how to adjust
and remove it)
Any testing requirements before use
Any user maintenance that can be carried out (e.g. hygiene/cleaning
procedures)
Factors that can affect the performance of the equipment (e.g. working
conditions, personal factors, defects and damage) how to recognize
defects in PPE, and arrangements for reporting them where to obtain
replacement PPE,
In addition to initial training, refresher training may be required from
time to
Time. Supervisor checks on the use of PPE may help determine when
refresher
Training is required.
Maintaining PPE
An effective system of maintenance of PPE is essential to make sure the
equipment continues to provide the degree of protection for which it is
designed.
Therefore, the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule (including
recommended replacement periods and shelf lives) must always be
followed.
Maintenance may include; cleaning, examination, replacement, repair
and testing. The wearer may be able carry out simple maintenance (e.g.
cleaning), but more intricate repairs must only be carried out by
competent personnel.
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The costs associated with the maintenance of PPE are the responsibility
of the employer.
Duties of employees regarding PPE

The Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations place duties on
employees to take reasonable steps to ensure that PPE provided is
properly used. The Regulations also place the following duties on
employees:
 PPE must be worn and used in accordance with the instructions
provided to them
 Employees must take all reasonable steps to ensure that PPE is
returned to the accommodation provided for it after it has been used
(unless the employee may take PPE away from the workplace e.g.
footwear or clothing)
 PPE must be examined before use
 Any loss or obvious defect must be immediately reported to their
supervisor
 Employees must take reasonable care for any PPE provided to them and
not carry out any maintenance unless trained and authorized.
Self-employment and PPE
The self-employed also have a duty to obtain and use the appropriate
PPE wherever there is a risk to their health and safety that cannot be
adequately controlled by alternative measures. The only exception to this
is for those who are classified as self-employed for tax reasons, but who
otherwise work in an employee-employer relationship. In this case it will
be for the employer to provide suitable PPE.
Types of PPE
Hearing protection
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There are three main types of hearing protection:
 earmuffs/defenders, which completely cover the ear
 earplugs, which are inserted into the ear canal
 Semi-inserts (also called canal-caps), which cover the entrance to
the ear canal.
Hearing protection must be worn by anyone who is likely to be exposed to
noise at or above the Exposure Action Level set by The Control of Noise at
Work
Regulations 2005.
Head protection
There are three widely used types of head protection:
 industrial safety helmets (hard hats), which are designed to protect
against materials falling from height and swinging objects
 industrial scalp protectors (bump caps), which are designed to
protect from knocking against stationary objects
 caps/hair nets, which protect against entanglement
Tasks where head protection may be required include:
 construction
 building repair
 work in excavations and tunnels
 work with bolt driving tools
 Driving motorcycles and all-terrain vehicles, etc.
Turban-wearing Sikhs are exempt from the requirement to wear hard
hats on
Construction sites by virtue of The Employment Act 1989.
Eye protection
There are several types of eye protection: safety spectacles: these are
similar to regular glasses but have a tougher lens. They can include side
shields for additional protection. eye shields: a frame-less one piece
molded lens, often worn over normal prescription glasses safety goggles:
these are made with flexible plastic frames and an elastic headband
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face shields: heavier and bulkier than other type of eye protector, face
shields protect the face, but do not fully enclose the eyes so do not
protect against dusts, mists or gases.
Tasks where eye protection may be required include:
 handling hazardous substances where there is a risk of splashing
 work with power driven tools where materials are likely to be
propelled
 welding operations
 work with lasers
 Using any gas or vapors under pressure.
Foot protection
There are a number of types of safety footwear:
safety boots or shoes. Normally have steel toe-caps but can have other
safety features (e.g. steel mid-soles, slip resistant soles, insulation
against heat and cold)
Wellington boots, which can be supplied with steel toe-cap santi-static
and conductive footwear. These protect against the build-up of static
electricity.
Tasks where foot protection may be required include: construction,
demolition, building repair, manual handling where there is a risk of
heavy objects falling on the feet, work in extremely hot or cold
environments, and work with chemicals and forestry.
Where there is a risk of slipping that cannot be avoided or controlled by
other measures, attention must be given to the slip resistance of soles
and replacement before the tread pattern is overly worn.
Hand and arm protection

Hand and arm protection comes in a variety of forms, including:
Gloves and gauntlets (leather, nitrile, latex, plastic coated, chain mail,
etc.) wrist cuffs and armlets, e.g. used in glass cutting and handling
barrier cream may sometimes be used, where gloves cannot practicably
be used.
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Tasks where hand and arm protection may be required include: the
manual handling of abrasive, sharp or pointed objects, work with
vibrating equipment such as pneumatic drills and chainsaws,
construction and outdoor work, work with chemicals and other
hazardous substances (e.g. bodily fluids) and work with hot or cold
materials.
In order to eliminate the risk of ill health through exposure to latex, a
number of organizations have phased out the use of latex gloves replacing
them with nitrile.
Body protection
Types of body protection include:
 overalls, aprons and coveralls (protection against hazardous
substances)
 clothing for cold, heat and bad weather
 clothing to protect against machinery, e.g. chainsaws
 high visibility clothing (e.g. jackets, vests)
 harnesses
 back supports
 Life jackets.
Tasks where body protection may be required include: work with
hazardous substances, work next to the highway or other areas with
moving transport or vehicles (e.g. construction sites), outdoor work,
forestry and grounds maintenance work.
Respiratory protection
There are two main types of respiratory protective equipment:
 respirators that filter contaminated air or clean it as it is breathed in
 Respirators that supply clean air from an independent source.
Work with harmful dusts, fumes, vapor’s can require respiratory
protective equipment. Tasks where respiratory protection may be required
include; welding, work with harmful substances, work in areas where
large amounts of nuisance dust is present, work that creates dust (e.g.
disc cutters
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LIST OF PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT
1. A hard hat –
Is a type of helmet predominantly used in
workplace environments, such as construction
sites, to protect the head from injury by falling
objects, impact with other objects, debris, bad
weather and electric shock?
2. A face shield
is a device used to protect wearer's entire face(or
part of it) from impact hazard such as flying
objects and road debris, chemical splashes (in
industry), or potentially infectious fluid (in
medical)
3. Safety Boots - is used for feet protection from
sudden impact of fallen materials.
4. Safety Gloves - used for the hand, to

avoid directly contact with heat or scratches.
5. Safety Glasses - used for eye protection

against the fumes or other foreign materials.
6. Cover all suit/Apron - is an outer

protective garment that covers primarily the
front of the body.
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ACTIVITY 1
Selection and use of appropriate PPE
A. MATCHING TYPE
Match column A with column B
a. Gloves
b. Hard hat
c. Safety shoes
d. Face shield
e. Safety goggle
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B. True or False
1. Hard hat Class B is hard hats provide impact and penetration resistance
along with limited voltage protection (up to 2,200 volts).
2. Hard hat Class C hard hats provide lightweight comfort and impact protection
but offer no protection from electrical hazards.
3. Goggles. These are tight-fitting eye protection that completely cover the eyes,
eye sockets and the facial area immediately surrounding the eyes and provide
protection from impact, dust and splashes.
C. ENUMERATION – Give at-least 9 Personal Protective Equipment
PERFORM LAYING BRICK/BLOCK FOR STRUCTURE

Lesson 2 Week 3-4
Procedures in installing horizontal/vertical guide for brick/block
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.
2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent

with job requirements.
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per

job required.
Introduction:
It is very important that horizontal/vertical guide is install properly according to
the standard requirement and according to the plan.
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15
16
17
18
19
20
Procedures in installing horizontal/vertical guide for
brick/block
A.
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Match column A
with column B
A B
A total measurement of
the house or a. Building Lines
The building.
Reinforcement for the

concrete b. Stake
Hallow blocks, to make it
strong.
This is the tools we use to

secure c. Dowell
Reference line
horizontally.
A piece of wood, it hold

the butter d. Plum bub
Board and it always use
for lay-out.
This tools are always use

to keep our e. Level
Work straight vertically.
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Reinforcement bars/dowel Sizes
LESSON 3-4 WEEK 5-6
2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent

with job requirements.
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per

job required.
4. Identify the correct reinforcement bar for the laying of Block/brick

for structure.
5. Select and fix reinforcement bar for the job requirement.
Block dowels.
When placing a concrete foundation which will have concrete masonry

units (block) erected on it, you will usually find the plans require installing block
dowels, or vertical rebar to reinforce cells at a required spacing to give the
subsequent block wall sufficient strength to withstand conditions to which it will
be exposed, or to help it support loads it will carry as an overall part of the
structure you are building. These bars are tied to the foundation rebar (footing
bars) in a location that will place them in the center of individual block cells. For
them to be placed correctly, you will need to establish the wall line, then
determine the spacing of these cells. If your layout begins at a corner, using
8X16 inch regular block, you can place the first dowel 4 inches inside the outside
wall line, 4 inches from the corner, then space additional bars at their required
distances in multiples of 8
inches. For example, at 16, 24, or 32 inch centers. This is known as block
work spacing.
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Bulkhead dowels. In instances where a footing will not be completed in a single
concrete placement, you will need to dowel out of the bulkhead form so the next
placement will be structurally tied to the latter one. Make sure the dowels extend
far enough that the lateral reinforcement will overlap enough to maintain the
strength of the rods used. Typically, rebar lap is calculated in bar diameters. An
example would be the number 5 rebar mentioned earlier. It has a diameter of
5/8 of an inch, and the required lap might be 40 bar diameters. Multiplying the
diameter 5/8 by 40, you will get 200/8, or 25 inches.
Note that in structural concrete, other types of imbeds and inserts may be
required. Place rebar in such a manner as to allow installation of anchor bolts,
sleeves, embedded weld plates, inserts, or other items in their respective correct
locations without interference. In general terms, these items require more precise
positioning, so offsetting one or two rebars may be required.
Chair or support your rebar. Once the mat or cage is assembled, you must hold
it in position so the the concrete will cover it completely. Rebar chairs or concrete
brick are often used for this purpose. Place these positioners at a spacing that
will not allow the rebar to bend or deflect enough to reduce the coverage you
wish to obtain with the concrete you place in you forms. For a inch thick footing,
the rebar mat is usually placed about 4 inches from the bottom of the concrete,
and side clearances range from 2 to 4 inches.
Observe the rebar configuration while the concrete is placed. If shifting

occurs, support the rebars with a handled tool like a shovel wedged so that you
can achieve sufficient leverage to hold its position, or alter the direction of
flowing concrete so force is applied in the opposite direction.
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Cap or otherwise protect any exposed bars while working near them. Rebar
that is sheared, or mechanically cut has very sharp surfaces at the location of
these cuts. Construction workers have suffered serious injuries and have also
been killed when they have fallen on projecting rebar dowels. Special rod caps
made of high impact plastic with a metal plate embedded in them are required by
the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
PLACING AND TYING REINFORCING STEEL

Before you place reinforcing steel in forms, all form oiling should be completed.
Oil on reinforcing bars should be avoided because it reduces the bond between
the bars and the concrete. Use a piece of burlap to remove rust, mill scale,
grease, mud, or other foreign matter from the bars. A light film of rust or mill
scale is not objectionable.
Bars are marked to show where they will fit. You may work according to either
one of the two most-used systems for marking bars; however, the system you
use
should agree with the marking system which appears on the engineering or
assembly drawings. The two marking systems used are as follows:
1. All bars in one type of member are given the mark of that member. This
system is used for column bars, beam bars, footing bars, and so on.
2. The bars are marked in greater detail. These marks show exactly where the
bar is to be placed. In addition to the type member (that is, beam (B), wall (W),
column (C), and so on), the marks show the floor on which the bars are to be
placed and the size and individual number of each particular bar. Instead of
showing the bar size by its diameter measurement, the mark shows the bar size
in code by eighths. The examples shown below show the second type of marking
system.
213805 2 = second floor B = beam member 8 = 8/8- or 1 -inch (2.5 cm)-square
bar 05 = part of the second floor plan designated by the number 5
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2130605 2 = second floor B = beam member 06 = 6/8- or 3/4-inch (1.9 cm)-
round bar 05 = part of second floor plan designated by the number
Tie wire is used to hold rebar in place to ensure that when concrete is placed the
bars do not shift out of position. Sixteen gauge wire is used to tie
Table 7-6.-Multishearing
reinforcing bars. About 12 pounds (5.4 kg) of wire is required to tie an average
ton (0.9 tome) of bars. NOTE: Tie wire adds nothing to the strength of the steel.
A number of different types of ties can be used with reinforcing bars; some are
more effective than others. Figure 7-17 shows six types of ties that are identified
below according to the letters of the alphabet used to show individual ties.
A. SNAP TIE or SIMPLE TIE. The wire is simply wrapped once around the two
crossing bars in a diagonal manner with the two ends on top. These are twisted
together with a pair of sidecutters until they are very tight against the bars. Then
the loose ends of the wire are cut off. This tie is used mostly on floor slabs.
B. WALL TIE. This tie is made by going about 1 1/2 times around the vertical
bar, then diagonally around the intersection, twisting the two ends together until
the connection is tight, but without breaking the tie wire, then cutting off the
excess. The wall tie is used on light vertical mats of steel.
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C. DOUBLE-STRAND SINGLE TIE. This tie is a variation of the simple tie. It is
especially favored for heavy work
D. SADDLE TIE. The wires pass halfway around one of the ban on either side of
the crossing bar and are brought squarely or diagonally around the crossing bar
with the ends twisted together and cut off. This tie is used on special locations,
such as on walls.
E. SADDLE TIE WITH TWIST. This tie is a variation of the saddle tie. The tie
wire is carried completely around one of the bars, then squarely across and
halfway around the other, either side of the crossing bars, and finally brought
together and twisted either squarely or diagonally across. The saddle tie with
twist is used for heavy mats that are to be lifted by a crane.
F. CROSS TIE or FIGURE-EIGHT TIE. This type of tie has the advantage of
causing little or no twist in the bars.
The proper location for the reinforcing bars is usually given on drawings (table 7-
7). In order for the structure to withstand the loads it must carry, place the steel
in the position shown. Secure the bars in position in such a way that concrete-
placing operations will not move them. This can be accomplished by the use of
the reinforcing bar supports shown in figures 7-18, 7-19, and 7-20.
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The proper coverage of bars in the concrete is very important to protect the bars
from fire hazards, possibility of corrosion, and exposure to weather. When not
specified, minimum standards given below and in figure 7-21 should be
observed.
FOOTINGS-3 inches at the sides where concrete is cast against the earth and on
the bottoms of footings or other principal structural members where concrete is
deposited on the ground.
Figure 7-19.-Precast concrete block used for rebar support.

WALLS-2 inches for bars larger than No. 5, where concrete surfaces, after
removal of forms, would be exposed to the weather or be in contact with the
ground; 1 1/2 inches for No. 5 bars and smaller; 3/4 inch from the faces of all
walls not exposed directly to the ground or the weather.
COLUMNS-1 1/2 inches over spirals and ties.
BEAMS AND GIRDERS-1 1/2 inches to the nearest bars on the top, bottom, and
sides.
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JOISTS AND SLABS-3/4 inch on the top, bottom, and sides of joists and on the
top and the bottom of slabs where concrete surfaces are not exposed directly to
the ground or the weather.
NOTE: All measurements are from the outside of the bar to the face of the
concrete, NOT from the main steel, unless otherwise specified.
Footings and other principal structural members that are against the ground
should have at least
Figure 7-20.-Rebar hung in place.
inches (76.2 mm) of concrete between the steel and the ground. If the concrete
surface is to be in contact with the ground or exposed to the weather after
removal of the forms, the protective covering of concrete over the steel should be
2 inches (50.8 mm). It maybe reduced to 1 1/2inches (38.1 mm) for beams and
columns and 3/4 inch (19.5 mm) for slabs and interior wall surfaces, but it
should be 2 inches (50.8 mm) for all exterior wall surfaces. This measurement is
taken from the main rebar, not the stirrups or the ties.
NOTE: Where splices in reinforcing steel are not dimensioned on the drawings,
the bars should be lapped not less than 30 times the bar diameter nor less than
12 inches (table 7-7). The stress in a tension bar
Table 7-7.-Length of Lap Splices in Reinforcing Steel
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Figure 7-21.-Minimum coverage of rebar in concrete. can be transmitted
through the concrete and into another adjoining bar by a lap splice of
proper length.
To lap-weld wire fabric/wire mesh, you can use a number of methods, two
of which are the end lap and the side lap. In the end lap method, the wire
mesh is lapped by overlapping one full mesh, measured from the ends of
the longitudinal wires in one piece to the ends of the longitudinal wires in
the adjacent piece, and then tying the two pieces at 1-foot 6-inch (45.0
cm) centers with a snap tie. In the side lap method, the two longitudinal
side wires are placed one alongside and overlapping the other and then
are tied with a snap tie every 3 feet (.9 m).
Reinforcing bars are in tension and therefore should never be bent around
an inside corner beams. They can pull straight through the concrete cover.
Instead, they should overlap and extend to the far face for anchorage with
180-degree hooks and proper concrete coverage (fig. 7-23).
The bars can also be spliced by metal are welding but only if called for in
the plans and specifications. For bars which are placed in a vertical
position, a butt weld is preferred. The end of the bottom bar is cut
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Figure 7-23.-Correct and Incorrect placement of reinforcement for an
inside corner.
Square, and the end of the top bar resting on it is cut in a bevel fashion,
thus permitting a butt weld. For bars which will bear a load in a
horizontal position, a fillet weld is preferred. Usually, the two bars are
placed end to end (rather than overlapping), and pieces of flat bar (or
angle iron) are placed on either side. Fillet welds are then made where the
metals join. The welds are made to a depth of one half of the bar diameter
and for a length eight times the bar diameter.
The minimum clear distance between parallel bars in beams, footings,

walls, and floor slabs should either be 1 inch (25.4 mm) or 1 1/3 times the
largest size aggregate particle in the concrete, whichever distance is
greater. In columns, the clear distance between parallel bars should be not
less than 1 1/2 times the bar diameter or 1 1/2 times the maximum size
of the coarse aggregate. Always use the larger of the two.
The support for reinforcing steel in floor slabs is shown in figure 7-24. The
height of the slab bolster is determined by the required concrete protective
cover. Concrete blocks made of sand-cement mortar can be used in place
of the slab bolster. Wood blocks should never be used for this purpose.
Highchairs (fig. 7-
18) Can be obtained in heights up to 6 inches (15 cm). When a height

greater than 6 inches is required, make the chair out of No. 0, soft,
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annealed iron wire. To hold the bars firmly in position, you should tie the
bars together at frequent intervals where they cross with a snap at.
Steel for column ties may be assembled with the verticals into cages by laying
the vertical bars for one side of the column horizontally across a couple of
sawhorses. The proper number of ties are slipped over the bars, the remaining
vertical bars are added, and then the ties are spaced out as required by
the placing plans. All intersections are wired together to make the
assembly rigid so that it may be hoisted and set as a unit. Figure 7-25
shows atypical column tie assembly.
After the column is raised, it is tied to the dowels or reinforcing steel
carried up from below. This holds it firmly in position at the base. The
column form is erected and the reinforcing steel is tied to the column form
at 5-foot (4.5-m) intervals, as shown in figure 7-26.
The use of metal supports to hold beam reinforcing steel in position is
shown in figure 7-8. Note the position of the beam bolster. The stirrups
are tied to the main reinforcing steel with a snap tie. Wherever possible
you should assemble the stirrups and main reinforcing steel outside the
form and then place the assembled unit in position. Precast concrete
blocks, as shown in figure 7-27, maybe substituted for metal supports.
The horizontal and vertical bars are wired securely to each other at
sufficiently frequent intervals to make a rigid mat. Tying is required at
every second or third intersection, depending upon the size and spacing of
bars, but with not less than three ties to any one bar, and, in any case,
not more than 4 to 6 feet apart in either direction.
32
Figure 7-24.-Steel in place in a floor slab.
Figure 7-25.-Column assembly.
Figure 7-26.-Method of holding column steel in plain in formwork.
Figure 7-27.-Steel in place in a footing.

33
Figure 7-28.-Steel in place on a wall form
Steel in place in a wall. The wood block is removed when the form has
been filled up to the level of the block For high walls, ties in between the
top and bottom should be used.
Steel is placed in footings very much as it is placed in floor slabs. Stones,

rather than steel supports, may be used to support the steel at the proper
distance above the subgrade. Steel mats in small footings are generally
preassembled and placed after the forms have been set. Steel mats in large
footings are constructed in place.
Tips
Keep rebar stored on dunnage to prevent rusting, and to keep bars from
becoming buried in soft soils. Any build up of iron oxide (rust) will
exacerbate spalling later on.
Buy quality tools if you plan to do a lot of rebar tying. Cheap wire reels
and pliers won't hold up to the wear and tear of daily use.
34
Double check the rebar placement drawings, especially for dowels, since
misplaced dowels must be cut off, and new ones epoxied in the correct
location, at considerable expense
Warnings
Wear the correct safety equipment for this work. Gloves are especially
important to protect the rodbuster's hands.
Rebar ends and the ends of cut tie wire can be incredibly sharp.
Impalement protection caps are required by law.
Reinforcement Detailing
Reinforcement shall be located such that it

acts compositely with the masonry and
various ways in which it can be used in
Reinforced masonry are shown in Fig.2.
Reinforced hollow Wall with vertical

and bed block work wall joint
reinforcement
Pocket type wall reinforcing pockets

formed by bonding arrangements -
Quetta bond Concrete filled Beam unit
35
Cavity wall
Reinforcement placed in Units with bed joint the bed joints of grooved
reinforcement
Reinforcement bars/dowel Sizes

Activity
C. Multiple choice, Circle the best answer.

1. Vertical Rebar means?
a. C furlins
b. b. Columns
c. c. Beams d.
d. Dowels
36
2. The strength and durability of concrete are dependent on the:
a. purity of water
b. ratio of stone aggregates by size
c. type of cement
d. all of the above
1. The standard measurement of the dowels or the re-inforcement is…

a. 1 meter
b. 50 cm
c. 3 meter
d. 200 cm
4. The dowels must be…

a. welds
b. screws
c. tied
d. glue
5.Rebar’s is made in…

a. mild steel
b. stainless
c. good iron
d. all of these
37
Brick/block laying procedures
(LESSON 5-6 WEEK 8-10)
6
2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent with

job requirements.
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per job required.
4. Know the different type of concrete hallow blocks.
5. Know the proper procedure of block laying.
Concrete Blocks
When building walls, blocks and bricks are primary materials.
Bricks are smaller and made of clay, although concrete bricks are also
available. Blocks are bigger, made of concrete aggregates only and can be
categorized as either masonry or fair face.
There are two types of masonry concrete blocks. Solid masonry

blocks have rough, unfinished surfaces and require plaster and paint of
proper finish. These vary in strength from 600 to 800 pounds per
square inch (psi) and 1,000 to 1,200 psi. The usual sizes include: 4"x
8"x 12", 5"x 8"x 12" and 8"x 8"x12".
Hollow blocks are used for exterior south walls (facing the sun) as the
cavity within. The block decreases heat gain. The hollowness of the block
decreases he weight bearing. Capacity of the wall and they should not be
used for load bearing purposes. Sizes include 4" x 8"x 12", 5"x 8"x12" and 8"x
8" x 12".
The two types of fair face blocks are solid and cellular. Solid blocks
are steam cured, have a finish and smooth surface that do not require
38
plaster or paint. Available in natural, grey finish and pigmented finish in
terracotta, yellow and mud colours, they come in two sizes: 4"x 8"x
16"and 6"x 8"x 16".
Cellular blocks have a cavity and offers the same function as

masonry hollow blocks; they are available in here sizes: 4"x 8"x 16",
6"x 8"x 16"and 8"x 8"x16".
When selecting which block to use, consider the following:
For load bearing use a thick block. For an external south wall use hollow
blocks as they provide insulation against the heat. For a concealed
electrical or plumbing line, do not use hollow or thin blocks.
Commercial buildings have different requirements to those

required for houses. Block size and thickness depends on the space
restrictions and load bearing requirements.
For a finish look devoid of paint, use fair face blocks. For better
quality in terms of strength and durability, choose branded blocks
although they are mare expensive than unbranded blocks.
The hollow block sizes in the Philippines are the following:
40cm (length) X 20 cm (width) X 4 in (thickness)

39
CONCRETE MASONARY UNIT (CMU)
LAYING PROCEDURE
 Spread the mortar out about 1" deep and 8" wide in the marked area.
Extend this mortar out for a distance of about three or four blocks in
one direction.
 Put a furrow in the center of the mortar with a trowel. This furrow
will force the mortar to the edge of the block when it is laid.
40
 Set the corner block first. Be sure you are using the correct block
(finished end).
 Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically, and
take time to get it positioned correctly. All other blocks will align with
this starter block, so it's very important to set it exactly.
 Follow this same procedure as you reach the other corners, laying the
first course out about two or three blocks in each direction.
 Tie a line between two bricks and stretch it between the two corner
blocks on the first course.
 Continue to lay the base mortar on the footing as the course
continues. Apply mortar to the ends of the blocks with a trowel and
place the block in position.
 Keep all mortar joints at about 3/8". If necessary to make
spacing adjustments, fill some mortar joints 1/2" to 3/4".
 If you must cut a block to fill a course, use a masonry chisel. Draw a
line on both sides of the block where the cut is to be made. Strike the
chisel with a bricklayer's hammer. You will soon learn to make such
cuts easily.
 After you've laid four or five blocks, use a long mason's level or some
type of straightedge to check the alignment of the blocks. Check both
the tops of the blocks and the outside edge for correct alignment.
 Tap the blocks into position to make any alignment corrections while
the mortar is still wet. Never attempt to move a block after the
concrete begins to set.
 Build up the corners first. Always keep the corners about a block or
two higher than other runs until you finish the job.
 Keep the guidelines between the corners at all times. They will help
you keep the blocks level at all points in each course. Be careful not
to knock the lines out of alignment.
 Always keep the guidelines tight. If one side gets bumped out of
position, take a minute to level it.
 Use a trowel to cut away any surplus mortar. Throw the surplus
mortar back onto the mortarboard. Keep turning the mortar with
your trowel throughout the project so small portions will not
harden.
41
 Use a piece of 3/4" ply-board or the bed of a wheelbarrow as a
mortarboard. Always wet the board or the wheelbarrow bed before
placing the mortar in it.
 Never mix more mortar than you can use in about an hour and a
half or two hours. On a hot day, keep the mortar covered with a
piece of plastic to hold in moisture.
 Use as much water as the mortar will take and still remain elastic.
 Continue to stagger the blocks–working from the corners–and

build the wall to the desired height.
 Take time to level each course. Use a level that is at least 3' long.
 Lay all blocks with the thicker end of the face shell up.
 Keep a leveling string at the top of each course on each run of block.
 Measure both the length and the height of the wall after every two
or three runs. Also, hold your level diagonally along the block
corners to check for accuracy. If the blocks are being laid
accurately, the corners will strike evenly along a level held in this
position.
 After all the blocks are laid and while the mortar can still be
pressed with the fingers, take a jointer and finish the mortar joints
to the appearance desired. Keep the jointer wet during this part of
the job.
 If the concrete blocks are being laid as a fence or barrier, the top
course can be finished off by filling in the holes with fresh
concrete mix and a trowel.
NOTE:
For 200 mm and 150 mm thick blocks cement sand ratio should be 1:6 & for
100 mm thick blocks cement sand ratio should be 1: 4
280 cm
Concrete Hallow Blocks Reinforcement bar/Dowell

42
Procedure in Laying Concrete Blocks
Here are tips and instructions on how to lay concrete blocks. Take
the time to read this article thoroughly–it will save you time and effort.
This article will also help you end up with a neater, more satisfactory
installation–with far less waste. In this article you will find information
about:
1. Select the Right

Blocks for the
Job
2. Pouring the
Footing for a
Block Wall
3. Estimating
Blocks and
Mortar
Needed
4. Preparing to
Lay the
Concrete Blocks
43
5. Laying the Concrete Blocks
SELECT THE RIGHT BLOCKS FOR THE JOB
 This figure shows a few of the many types of concrete blocks

available for modern construction. Select the correct block for your
job before starting the project. Your retailer will be glad to help you
select the correct blocks if you need further direction.
 All 8" blocks–the standard unit–are actually 7-5/8" in width. This

allows for the thickness of the mortar on the finished job.
 The standard unit is suitable for most projects. Half-blocks with

square or rounded corners are often necessary at the end of a run.
 Both single and double corner units provide a block that gives a
smooth finish at the corner.
 Jamb joist blocks are used around doorways.
 Sash units provide an opening for casement windows, while header

blocks are designed to provide a space for wooden supports or
other structures at the top of a wall.
 Other special blocks are available for almost any building requirement.

 POURING THE FOOTING FOR A BLOCK WALL

 Every block wall–regardless of height or length–should be

placed on a secure footing of poured concrete. A block
44
barbecue grill or outdoor fireplace requires a large concrete
pad as a footing.
 The footing should always be poured deep enough so that the

base is below the frost line.
 Always make the footing at least twice as deep as the thickness of

the wall and twice as wide. For example, if you are using 8" blocks,
the footing should be at least 8" deep and about 16" wide. This
footing will provide a 4" rim on each side of the block when laid.
 The form for such footings can be made from rough 2x4s, held in
place by wooden stakes driven into the ground about every 3' to 4'.
 For a footing poured in an area where drainage is a problem, lay a

drain line along the outer edge of the form. Allow for a drop of
about 1" for each 20' of drain line. Backfill over the drain line with
about 12" of crushed stone or gravel.
 Before you pour the footing, be sure it will not prevent the natural
run-off of water and will not divert the flow of water onto any
neighboring property.
 If gas, electric or water supply lines must pass through the footing,
you must make an opening. Do this by nailing together four pieces
of 2x8 and laying them in the proper position before the footing is
poured. In many cases, a 4" piece of drain tile will serve the same
purpose. Mark the depth and location of the utility opening on your
foundation plan or with a stake so you can find it easily later on.
 For large concrete foundation jobs that cannot be finished

with one pouring, divide the forms into sections you can
handle. Complete one before proceeding to the next.
 Make sure your footing is level by placing a level across the

footings about every 8'. Adjust the height of the 2x4s by raising or
lowering the stakes to make the 2x4s level on each side at all
points around the footing.
45
 Fill the form to the top edge, then level the freshly poured
concrete by pulling a 2x4 or some other straightedge along the
top of the form.
 Work the straightedge back and forth–in a sawing motion–until the

concrete is level. Fill in any low spots with additional concrete.
Wipe away surplus concrete in the high spots.
 Allow ample time for the concrete to dry fully. If the footing is to
carry an extremely heavy load, drying may require up to three
days.
ESTIMATING BLOCKS AND MORTAR NEEDED
 This table will help you estimate the number of blocks and the
amount of mortar you'll need for your job. Use this table to help
you estimate the number of blocks and mortar needed for your
project.
Number of Concrete Blocks Required for Each Sq. Ft. of Wall
Based on 3/8" Mortar Joint

BLOCK SIZE BLOCKS PER 100 SQ. FT. OF WALL AREA
4X4X16 225
6X4X16 225
8X4X16 225
4X8X16 112-1/2
6X8X16 112-1/2
46
8 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
12 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
Mortar Needed for Concrete Blocks
BLOCK SIZE PER 100 SQ. FT. OF WALL AREA PER 100 BLOCK
4" Blocks 13-1/2 Cu. Ft 6 Cu. Ft.
8" Blocks 8-1/2 Cu. Ft. 7-1/2 Cu. Ft.
 Select the block size you will be using in the left-hand column.
The right-hand column will show you the number of blocks and
the amount of mortar required for the job.
 You can also estimate for the number of blocks required by

allowing three 8" blocks for every 4' on each course of blocks.
PREPARING TO LAY THE CONCRETE BLOCKS
47
 Before starting to lay the blocks, drive stakes into the ground and
build a form at each corner. These stakes and forms can be made
from scrap pieces of wood used on the job.
 Locate the exact corner by stretching lines from one corner form
to the other as illustrated. The exact corner will be the point at
which the two lines cross.
 Drop a plumb bob down from each line, both at the corner point
where the lines cross and at positions about 2' out in each
direction.
 Determine the exact number of blocks required for the first course
by laying out a course of block on the dry concrete. Do not use
mortar for this test run–you are merely determining the number of
blocks required for the job.
 Be sure to use the corner blocks where needed, and cut

blocks as required.
 Use scrap pieces of 3/8" plywood to fill in the mortar joint

between each block. This is the thickness of the mortar when
applied.
 After this test run, remove the blocks and prepare for the actual
laying of the first course.
48
LAYING THE CONCRETE BLOCKS
 Drop plumb bobs down from the corner string and at positions
about 3' out from the corner. Mark the location of the corner
block on the footing base as shown.
 Spread the mortar out about 1" deep and 8" wide in the marked
area. Extend this mortar out for a distance of about three or four
blocks in one direction.
 Put a furrow in the center of the mortar with a trowel. This

furrow will force the mortar to the edge of the block when it is
laid.
 Set the corner block first. Be sure you are using the correct block
(finished end).
 Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically, and
take time to get it positioned correctly. All other blocks will align with
this starter block, so it's very important to set it exactly.
 Follow this same procedure as you reach the other corners, laying the
first course out about two or three blocks in each direction.
 Tie a line between two bricks and stretch it between the two corner
blocks on the first course.
 Continue to lay the base mortar on the footing as the course

continues. Apply mortar to the ends of the blocks with a trowel and
place the block in position.
49
 Keep all mortar joints at about 3/8". If necessary to make
spacing adjustments, fill some mortar joints 1/2" to 3/4".
 If you must cut a block to fill a course, use a masonry chisel as

illustrated. Draw a line on both sides of the block where the cut is to
be made. Strike the chisel with a bricklayer's hammer. You will soon
learn to make such cuts easily.
 After you've laid four or five blocks, use a long mason's level or some
type of straightedge to check the alignment of the blocks. Check both
the tops of the blocks and the outside edge for correct alignment.
50
 Tap the blocks into position to make any alignment corrections while
the mortar is still wet. Never attempt to move a block after the
concrete begins to set.
 Build up the corners first. Always keep the corners about a block or
two higher than other runs until you finish the job.
 Keep the guidelines between the corners at all times. They will help
you keep the blocks level at all points in each course. Be careful not
to knock the lines out of alignment.
 Always keep the guidelines tight. If one side gets bumped out of
position, take a minute to level it.
 Use a trowel to cut away any surplus mortar. Throw the surplus
mortar back onto the mortarboard. Keep turning the mortar with
your trowel throughout the project so small portions will not
harden.
 Use a piece of 3/4" ply-board or the bed of a wheelbarrow as a

mortarboard. Always wet the board or the wheelbarrow bed before
placing the mortar in it.
 Never mix more mortar than you can use in about an hour and a half
or two hours. On a hot day, keep the mortar covered with a piece of
plastic to hold in moisture.
 Use as much water as the mortar will take and still remain elastic.
 Continue to stagger the blocks–working from the corners–and build

the wall to the desired height.
 Take time to level each course. Use a level that is at least 3' long.
 Lay all blocks with the thicker end of the face shell up.
 Keep a levelling string at the top of each course on each run of block
51
 Measure both the length and the height of the wall after every two or
three runs. Also, hold your level diagonally along the block corners to
check for accuracy. If the blocks are being laid accurately, the corners
will strike evenly along a level held in this position.
 After all the blocks are laid and while the mortar can still be pressed
with the fingers, take a jointer and finish the mortar joints to the
appearance desired. Keep the jointer wet during this part of the job.
 You may need to add reinforcing rods to walls built extremely high or
in areas where ground pressures may vary.
 Lay 1/4" reinforcing rods as illustrated, with the ends overlapped 2" to
3". Mortar can be placed directly over the rods.
 If wood framing will be attached to the top run, set an anchor bolt
every 3' to 4' in the last run.
52
 If a load-bearing wall intersects with the outside wall, it should be
tied to the main wall with metal tie bars. Bars as shown should be
set in place on at least every other run.
 Non-load-bearing walls connecting to main walls can be tied in by

laying a 16" strip of 1/2" mesh galvanized hardware cloth directly
on top of the block.
 A strip of this cloth should be used for every other course at the tie-
in point.
 If the concrete blocks are being laid as a fence or barrier, the top
course can be finished off by filling in the holes with fresh concrete
mix and a trowel.
 For a neater and more enduring finish, use patio blocks for an
attractive and weatherproof finish.
TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST
1. Concrete Blocks
2. Trowel
3. Garden Hose
4. 3/8" Plywood
5. Drain Tile
6. 5/8" Plywood
53
7. Carpenter's Square
8. Work Gloves
9. Galvanized or Plastic Pail
10. Plumb Bob
11. Jointer
12. Level
13. Wheelbarrow
14. 100' of Cord
15. Anchor Bolts
16. 1/2" Galvanized Hardware Cloth
17. Mortar
18. Masonry Chisel
19. Mortar Hoe
20. 2x4s for Framing
21. Tie-in Bars
22. Mortar Board
A. TRUE or FALSE
1. The hollow block sizes in the Philippines is 40cm (length) X 20 cm

(width) X 4 in (thickness)? __________________
2. Commercial buildings have different requirements to those

required for houses. Block size and thickness depends on the space
restrictions and load bearing requirements? _________________
3. Hollow blocks are used for exterior south walls (facing the sun) as
the cavity within. The block increases heat gain? _____________
4. Blocks are bigger, made of concrete aggregates only and can be

categorized as either masonry or fair face? _________
5. When building walls, blocks and bricks are primary materials.

Bricks are smaller and made of clay, although concrete bricks are
also available? _____
54
Title: Brick/block laying procedures
Performance Objective: The students will be able to perform
Brick/block laying procedures for structure per given

job specification or requirements.
Supplies/Materials : Cements, Sand, Water, block/bricks, RSB

#10, tie wire, lumber, nail
Equipment : Concrete Mixer Machine if needed, pail,
Shovel, Mixing Board, Pails, trowel, plum bub, push-full rule,

level hose, pencil, nylon string, claw hammer, wood float and
PPE
Steps/Procedure:
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and

identification of materials.
2. List down all the tools, material and equipment need

to use based on the given drawing and make a
request to withdraw from the store room.
3. Read and follow the operating procedure of the

electrically operated equipment as well as the
manually operated equipment.
55
4. Follow the entire safety requirement during the
operation of the equipment.
5. Check all the tools, materials and equipment if it is

in good condition before performing the job.
6. Wear an appropriate PPE for the particular job to do.
7. Make a lay-out for the project according to

the plan requirement.
8. Make stake and follow building lines.
9. Make a concrete foundation for the wall according to

10. Mixed a mortar according to the mix proportion

needed of the project.
11. Lay block/brick according to the plan specification.
12. Always aligned every layer based on the nylon string.
13. Stop laying of block/brick every five (5) layer and wait
to make it strong and dry.
14. Secure the cleanliness of the area before and after to do a job.
15. After all the instruction above is complete and good

proceed to the other job.
16. After performing the job, go to your trainer to

assess and evaluate your work.
Assessment Method: Actual demonstration with oral questioning
56
Performance Criteria Checklist
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation

and identification of materials
2. Read and follow the operating procedure of

the electrically operated equipment as well
as the manually operated equipment
3. Follow the entire safety requirement during

the operation of the equipment
4. Check all the tools, materials and

equipment if it is in good condition before
performing the job
5. Wear an appropriate PPE for the particular

job to do.
6. Make a lay-out for the project according to

57
7. Make a concrete foundation for the wall
according to the plan requirement
8. Mixed a mortar according to the mix

proportion needed of the project
9. Lay block/brick according to

the plan specification.
10. Always aligned every layer based on

the nylon string.
11. Stop laying of block/brick every five (5)

layer and wait to make it strong and dry.
12. Secure the cleanliness of the area before

and after to do a job
LESSON 7
WEEK 12
.
OHS regulations
1. Know the importance of safety in workplace.
2. Know the right and the privilege of the workers in safety.
3. Apply all the provision in the safety regulation in workplace.
58
Definition
Workers cutting Marble without any protective gear, Indore, India.
Since 1950, the International Labour Organization (ILO) and the World
Health Organization (WHO) have shared a common definition of
occupational health. It was adopted by the Joint ILO/WHO Committee on
Occupational Health at its first session in 1950 and revised at its twelfth
session in 1995. The definition reads:
"Occupational health should aim at: the promotion and maintenance of
the highest degree of physical, mental and social well-being of workers in
all occupations; the prevention amongst workers of departures from health
caused by their working conditions; the protection of workers in their
employment from risks resulting from factors adverse to health; the
placing and maintenance of the worker in an occupational environment
adapted to his physiological and psychological capabilities; and, to
summarize, the adaptation of work to man and of each man to his job.
"The main focus in occupational health is on three different objectives: (i)
the maintenance and promotion of workers’ health and working capacity;
(ii) the improvement of working environment and work to become
conducive to safety and health and (iii) development of work organizations
and working cultures in a direction which supports health and safety at
work and in doing so also promotes a positive social climate and smooth
operation and may enhance
Productivity of the undertakings. The concept of working culture is
intended in this context to mean a reflection of the essential value systems
adopted by the undertaking concerned. Such a culture is reflected in
practice in the managerial systems, personnel policy, principles for
participation, training policies and quality management of the
undertaking."
The Occupational Safety and Health Act states that every working
Filipino has the right to a safe and healthy work environment. The
Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) is the federal
agency created to enforce the Occupational Safety and Health Act.
59
Who Is Covered by OSHA?
All private sector employees and employees of the post office are covered
by OSHA under the federal OSHA program or an OSHA program operated
by the state. Public sector employees are only covered in states that have
adopted a state OSHA program and are not covered under the federal
OSHA program. Federal employees are not covered by OSHA, but rather
are covered by a presidential executive order that requires federal
agencies to maintain a health and safety program that meets the same
standards as the private sector. The main difference is that federal
agencies cannot be fined for violating the health or safety standards.
Can States Have their Own OSHA Program?
The Occupational Safety and Health Act authorizes states to

implement their own safety and health programs with OSHA
approval. State OSHA programs must be at the very least as effective
as the federal OSHA program and must provide similar protections for
workers.
What Rights Are Granted under OSHA?
OSHA requires employers to provide a workplace that is free of

recognized dangers and hazards. Generally, employees have the
right to:
 Get training from the employer as required by OSHA standards

 Request information from the employer about OSHA standards,
worker injuries, job hazards, and workers rights
 Request that the employer correct hazardous conditions or
OSHA violations
 File written complaints with OSHA about violations of OSHA
regulations or serious hazardous conditions
 Be involved in the OSHA inspection of the workplace
 Find out results of the OSHA inspection
What Are the Worker's Responsibilities?

60
OSHA requires workers to comply with all health and safety standards
that apply to their job, including:
 Reading the OSHA posters
 Following the employer's health and safety rules and safe work practices
 Utilizing all required gear and equipment
 Reporting hazardous conditions to the employer
 Reporting hazardous conditions that the employer does not correct to
OSHA
What Are the Employer's Responsibilities?
OSHA requires that employers provide a safe and healthy workplace

free of recognized hazards. The most important requirements
include:
 Providing properly maintained tools and equipment

 A warning system, such as codes or labels, to warn employees of
potential hazards or hazardous chemicals
 Posting the OSHA poster in a prominent location
 Keeping records of work related injuries or illnesses
 Constant examinations of workplace conditions to ensure
compliance with OSHA regulations
Can an Employee Be Fired for Complaining about Unsafe or

Unhealthful Working Conditions?
A worker cannot be fired, transferred, denied a raise, or be punished in

any way because he exercised his rights under the Occupational Health
and Safety Act. An employer who does any of these acts may face a
lawsuit for discrimination or retaliation. Contact an attorney immediately
because discrimination and retaliation complaints must be filed
immediately, usually within 30 days of the incident.
Workplace Hazards
1. Physical and mechanical hazards

61
2. Biological hazards
3. Chemical hazards
4. Psychological and social issues
OHS regulations
A. Multiple choice, Circle the best answer.
1. A worker cannot be fired, transferred, denied a raise, or be punished in any way
because he exercised his rights under the Occupational Health and Safety Act.
a. Yes b. No
c. Maybe
d. None of the above
2. The ________________________________ is the agency created to enforce the
Occupational Safety and Health Act.
a. purity of water
b. Department of Health
c. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA d. Safety officer
3. Who Is Covered by OSHA?

a. Elderly workers
b. Public sector employee
c. private sector employee
d. all workers
4. What Are the Worker's Responsibilities?

a. Following the employer's health and safety rules and safe work practices
b. Utilizing all required gear and equipment
c. Reporting hazardous conditions to the employer d. all of the above
62
5. What Are the Employer's Responsibilities?
a. Keeping records of work related injuries or illnesses
b. Give the responsibility to all employee
c. Ignore all accident in the workplace
d. all of these
Geographical orientation to
Perform laying brick/block for structure

LESSON 8
WEEK 13-14

2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment

consistent with job requirements.
3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as

per job required.
Geography
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
63
"Geographical" redirects here. For the magazine of the Royal Geographical
Society, see Geographical (magazine). For other uses, see Geography
(disambiguation).
The page "Kind of soil" does not exist. You can ask for it to be created,
but consider checking the search results below to see whether the
topic is already covered.
For search help, please visit Help: Searching.

 Serpentine soil
A serpentine soil is derived from ultramafic rocks, in particular

serpentinite , a ...concentrations in serpentine soils as in most other
kinds of soils. ...
64
 Soil
Soil is a natural body consisting of layers (soil horizons) that are

primarily ...proportion of the three kinds of soil particles, called
soil...
 Pedotope
The pedotope is not one particular kind of soil, nor even the
dominant kind of soil available in a location, but rather the total soil ...
 Soil quality
Soil quality is the capacity of a specific kind of soil to function,

within natural or managed ecosystem boundaries, to sustain plant
and ...
 Tillage
65
Tillage is the agricultural preparation of the soil by mechanical
agitation of ... refer to any of the kinds of soil agitation
described above. ...
 Arikaree Breaks
This kind of soil is also found in northeast Kansas, southwest

Nebraska, and Iowa. The soil in that part of the state forms the
Loess ...
 Tiarella cordifolia
66
It grows in most kinds of soil and blooms from April to June. Description
Tiarella cordifolia has a scaly horizontal rhizome and seasonal...
 Pamid
It does not need any particular kind of soil, but the grapes with best
quality are cultivated in hilly areas with light drained soils. ...
 Balagasan, Boac, Marinduque

The name Balagasan came from the word “Balagas”, which means a
kind of soil with plenty of bolders and easily eroded. When American’s
 Brown podzolic
Brown podzolic soil s are a subdivision of the Podzol ic soils in the

British soil ... a preponderance of this kind of soil in north-west Spain. ...
67
 History of soil science
The history of soil science began from the contributions of

chemist Justus von ...most suitable for the particular kinds of
soil on their farms. ...
 Nativity at Night (Geertgen tot Sint Jans)
His body was pure from any kind of soil and impurity. Then I heard also the
singing of the angels, which was of miraculous sweetness and
 Soil morphology
s and the description of the kind and arrangement of the
Horizons ... soil classification because theories of soil
genesis are both ephemeral and.
 Agriculture in ancient Tamil country
The ancient Tamils were aware of the different varieties of soil,

The kinds of crops that can be grown on them and the various irrigation.
68
 Soil in the United States
The US soil taxonomic hierarchy includes orders, suborders, great

... families and series, with each series representing a unique kind
of soil.
 Soil biomantle
The soil biomantle can be described and defined in several ways. ...
Biomixing refers to the kind of soil bioturbations typically caused by
 Bato, Catanduanes (section Soil classification)

The municipality of Bato is composed of five kinds of soils: hydrosol,
mountain soil, alimodian clay loam, Louisiana clay, and San Miguel
69
 Ecology (section Soils)
ecologists may adopt different kinds of statistical methods, such

as ... soils Paleoecological studies of soils places the origin for ...
 Glyphosate (section Soil degradation, and effects on micro-

organism and worms)
Found in Swedish forest soils up to two years after a glyphosate application

Glyphosate adsorption to soil varies depending on the kind of soil
 Musi Banyuasin Regency (section Soil)
Musi Banyuasin Regency consists of 4 kinds of soil: Organosol: along the

Swamp and in the plain area. Clay Loam: see Organosol. Alluvial: along
Geographical orientation to Perform laying brick/block for structure

1. Derived from ultramafic rocks?
70
a. Pedotope
b. Serpentine soil
c. Tillage
d. Arikaree Breaks
2. the agricultural preparation of the soil by mechanical agitation of ... refer to

any of the kinds of soil agitation:
a. Pedotope
b. Serpentine soil
c. Tillage
d. Arikaree Breaks
3. This kind of soil is also found in northeast Kansas, southwest Nebraska,
and Iowa. The soil in that part of the state forms the Loess :
a. Pedotope
b. Serpentine soil
c. Tillage
d. Arikaree Breaks
4. The __________ is not one particular kind of soil, nor even the dominant
kind of soil available in a location, but rather the total soil :
a. Pedotope
b. Serpentine soil
c. Tillage
d. Arikaree Breaks
5. The name ____________ came from the word “Balagas”, which means a
kind of soil with plenty of bolders and easily eroded
a. Pedotope
b. Serpentine soil
71
c. Balagasan
d. Arikaree Breaks
Mensuration to Perform laying brick/block for structure

LESSON 9-10
WEEK 16-17

2. Learn how to read and interpreted measuring tools.
per job required.
4. Lear how to convert metric system.
1. TABLES OF METRIC UNITS OF MEASUREMENT
In the metric system of measurement, designations of multiples and sub-divisions of any

unit may be arrived at by combining with the name of the unit the prefixes deka, hecto,
and kilo meaning, respectively, 10, 100, and 1000, and deci, centi, and milli, meaning,
respectively, one-tenth, one-hundredth, and one-thousandth. In some of the following
metric tables, some such multiples and sub-divisions have not been included for the
reason that these have little, if any currency in actual usage.
In certain cases, particularly in scientific usage, it becomes convenient to provide for
multiples larger than 1 000 and for subdivisions smaller than one-thousandth.
Accordingly, the following prefixes have been introduced and these are now generally
recognized:
72
24 -1
yotta, (Y), meaning 10 deci, (d), meaning 10
21 -2
zetta, (Z), meaning 10 centi, (c), meaning 10
18 -3
exa, (E), meaning 10 milli, (m), meaning 10
15 -6
peta, (P), meaning 10 micro, (u), meaning 10
12 -9
tera, (T), meaning 10 nano, (n), meaning 10
9 -12
giga, (G), meaning 10 pico, (p), meaning 10
6 -15
mega, (M), meaning 10 femto, (f), meaning 10
3 -18
kilo, (k), meaning 10 atto, (a), meaning 10
2 -21
hecto, (h), meaning 10 zepto, (z), meaning 10
1 -24
deka, (da), meaning 10 yocto, (y), meaning 10
Units of Length
10 millimeters (mm) = 1 centimeter (cm)
10 centimeters = 1 decimeter (dm) = 100 millimeters

10 decimeters = 1 meter (m) = 1000 millimeters
10 meters = 1 dekameter (dam)
10 dekameters = 1 hectometer (hm) = 100 meters
10 hectometers = 1 kilometer (km) = 1000 meters
Units of Area
100 square millimeters (mm2)
100 square centimeters
100 square decimeters
100 square meters
100 square dekameters
73
100 square hectometers
= 1 square centimeter (cm2)
= 1 square decimeter (dm2)
= 1 square meter (m2)
= 1 square dekameter (dam2) = 1 are
= 1 square hectometer (hm2) = 1 hectare (ha
= 1 square kilometer (km2)
2
2. TABLES OF ENGLISH UNITS OF MEASUREMENT
In these tables where foot or mile is underlined, it is survey foot or U.S. statute mile
rather than international foot or mile that is meant.
Units of Length
12 inches (in) = 1 foot (ft)

3 feet = 1 yard (yd)
16-1/2 feet = 1 rod (rd), pole, or perch
40 rods = 1 furlong (fur) = 660 feet
8 furlongs = 1 U.S. statute mile (mi) = 5280 feet
1852 meters = 6076.115 49 feet (approximately)

= 1 international nautical mile
3
Units of Area
2 2
144 square inches (in ) = 1 square foot (ft )
2,
9 square feet = 1 square yard (yd )
= 1296 square inches
272-1/4 square feet = 1 square rod (sq rd)
74
160 square rods = 1 acre = 43 560 square feet
2
640 acre = 1 square mile (mi )
1 mile square = 1 section of land
Note: 12.5 pcs of CHB is needed in 1 Sqr/Mtr

Mensuration to Perform laying brick/block for structure
A. MATCHING TYPE
Match column A with column B
A B
75
118.11 inches a. 2.54 cm
b
15 feet . 12 inches
1 foot c. 1000 mm
d
1 Meter . 3000 mm
1 cm e. 180 inches
Answer the following Question.
76
77
Basic operations for Perform laying brick/block for structure
78
consistent with job requirements .
3. Familiar about Bricks and Blocks.
4. Procedure how to lay a Block/brick for structure.

per job required.
Need to consider:
Types of Blocks
1. Standard Dimensions:
a. Length - 15 5/8 inches
b. Height - 7 5/8 inches or 3 5/8 inches
c. Width - 7 7/8, 3 5/8, 5 5/8, 9 5/8, or 11 5/8 inches
d. When laid with a 3/8-inch mortar joint, the block's overall

dimensions are 8" by 8" by 16" (7 5/8 X 7 5/8 X 15 5/8).
2. Block Style
a. Hollow or Solid - Hollow spaces are called cores; a solid unit has a
core area of 25% or less of the total cross-sectional area.
b. Heavyweight or Lightweight - Heavyweight units weigh

approximately 40-50 lbs. while the lightweight units weigh
approximately 25-35 lbs. The difference in weight is due to the
different types of aggregates used in manufacture.
3. Block Shapes
a. Stretcher - This is the most commonly used block for straight wall
runs; it has slight extensions called ears on each end which form a
core when laid end to end. (2 or 3 core)
79
b. Corner - same as a stretcher except that one end is smooth; it is
used at the end or corner of a wall.
c. Half Block - both ends are smooth; it is used for openings and ends
of walls.
d. Sash or Jamb - have special grooves for the installation of windows

or doors.
e. Miscellaneous - solid top, partition, bull nose, half-height, lintel;

each has a special application.
C. Job Estimation
1. How many blocks?
a. To estimate the number of blocks (8 X 8 X 16) needed for a wall, use

this formula:
1) Height of Wall X 1 1/2 = Number of Courses (A)

a) One foot (12 inches) is 12/8 or 3/2 or 1 1/2 of the height of a block.
b) The height can then be multiplied by 1 1/2 to determine the number

of courses needed.
2) Length of Wall X 3/4 = Number of Blocks per Course (B)
a) One foot is 3/4 the length of one block.
b) Therefore, the length of the wall in feet can be multiplied by 3/4

which gives the number of blocks needed for one row.
A X B = Total Number of Blocks (for 1 wall
When planning a project, it is important that the dimensions between

corners and all openings utilize full- or half-length
block; this will save time and money and improve the overall
appearance of the project.
80
2. How much mortar?
a. Purchase approximately 2 1/2 bags of masonry cement and 667 lbs. of

mortar sand for each 100 blocks.
Procedure how to lay a block/brick for structure
1. Secure isometric drawing for interpretation and

identification of materials.
2. List down all the tools, material and equipment need to use
based on the given drawing and make a request to withdraw
from the store room.
3. Read and follow the operating procedure of the electrically

operated equipment as well as the manually operated
equipment.
4. Follow the entire safety requirement during the

operation of the equipment.
5. Check all the tools, materials and equipment if it is in good

condition before performing the job.
6. Wear an appropriate PPE for the particular job to do.
7. Make a lay-out for the project according to the plan requirement.
8. Make stake and follow building lines.
81
9. Make a concrete foundation for the wall according to
10. Mixed a mortar according to the mix proportion needed of the project.
11. Lay block/brick according to the plan specification.
12. Always aligned every layer based on the nylon string.
13. Stop laying of block/brick every five (5) layer and wait to make it
strong and dry.
14. Secure the cleanliness of the area before and after to do a job.
Basic Operation
Building a foundation may seem an impossible under taking, but when

you understand the steps involved & can break them into individual
skills, the task is much more manageable.
Laying the foundation for a simple addition is also easier because the
project is on a relatively small scale & you will be able to use the existing
foundation to guide layout, leveling, & finishing details. In fact, the most
difficult part of many addition foundations is getting materials &
equipment into a tight backyard— & getting excavated dirt out of it.
Although construction techniques vary according to foundation type,
they require many of the following skills: laying out perimeter lines,
excavating for footings & possibly a basement or crawl space, tying the
new foundation into the old, building level forms, setting reinforcing
steel, pouring concrete, laying concrete block, setting anchor bolts, water
proofing foundation walls, installing drainage around the perimeter, &
backfilling.
Laying Out the Foundation
The first step in building a foundation is to set up string lines to establish

the outside edges of the foundation wall (not the foundation footing), the
limits of excavation, exact location of footing trenches, & accurate
82
placement of concrete blocks or form boards for foundation walls. String
lines are usually stretched between temporary batter boards & can be
taken down & put back up as needed. Because an addition abuts the
house along at least one wall, you can use the house instead of batter
boards for that side.
Laying out the foundation: Siding & sheathing removed to expose
foundation & structural members; Plumb line at edge of new addition;
Equal measurement indicates string is parallel to side of house; Corner
stakes beneath string crossings; Obstruction; Existing foundation.
If your addition will be close to the setback limits of your property, verify
the property lines. Your building inspection department may even re quire
a certified survey.
You will need one or two helpers to lay out string lines. The following
procedure is for a simple rectangular addition, but similar techniques can
be used for more complex additions.
1. Mark where outside edges of new foundation will intersect house
foundation. Using level to keep lines plumb, scribe vertical lines onto
siding at these two points. (No line is necessary if addition wall lines up
with corner of house.) If edge of addition lines up with one interior wall,
take accurate measurements from inside house & drill pilot holes from
outside to make sure your line on siding corresponds with outside edge
of intersecting wall stud.
Scribe a cutting line farther out from foundation line to allow for
thickness of new siding on addition wall, depending on how new siding
will be joined with old later on.
2. Remove siding & sheathing covering top of house foundation between
marks. Remove enough to ex pose floor joists & subfloor to save doing it
later. Use circular saw to make cuts, setting blade deep enough to cut
through siding & sheathing but not into framing or foundation. Use
carbide blade
3. Study your plans & existing floor structure to establish where top of
new foundation will be in relation to existing foundation. Even if they
appear level, don’t assume that dimensions of new & old joists, mud sill,
subflooring, & other lumber are the same. Modern lumber is milled to
smaller dimensions than old lumber, & accumulated differences can
make new floor lower than existing floor if you line up the foundations at
the same level
4. Once you have established top level of new foundation, mark that point
on house framing or foundation by measuring from top of existing
83
subfloor. Mark each corner of new foundation. Attach string line to each
point, driving a nail into house framing or into cleat nailed into house
framing. Tie nylon string, not cotton, to nails driven firmly into wood at
angle so string does not slide up or down when pulled taut. To make sure
strings are level with each other, use transit, water level, or long
carpenter’s level set on a straightedge. If they are not level, lower string at
higher corner to level with the one attached to lower corner. Adjust
difference later when you frame floor. Make sure both nails are aligned
vertically with marks indicating edge of new foundation wall.
top) Using a water level; (bottom) Using a transit: Find a spot from
which you can see all the batter boards clearly. Level the transit at the
level you want & rotate it so you can tell your helper where to mark.
5. Build batter boards for other ends of string lines by driving two
sharpened 2 by 4s into ground about 3 feet apart & nailing level cross-
pieces to back sides at level where string lines are attached to house
foundation. Set batter boards 6 to
10 feet beyond addition corners so they don't interfere with excavating
& form building.
6. Stretch the two string lines & tie to 6-penny (6d) nails driven into tops
of batter boards. To locate nails so lines are parallel to each other &
84
perpendicular to house wall, stretch one string line taut so it touches top
of batter board. Slide it right or left along top of crosspiece until it's
perfectly square to house. Drive nail into batter board at that point. Use “
3-4-5 triangle” (a series of three measurements that form right triangle) to
determine when lines are square. The two legs are 3 feet & 4 feet; the
hypotenuse is 5 feet. For greater accuracy use longer measurements that
are multiples of 3, 4, & 5 feet (for example, 9-12-15 or 12-16-20).
Pull second string line to second batter board & move right or left until
lines are an equal distance apart at both ends. Set nail into batter board
at that point & tie string line to it.
7. Build batter boards for fourth side of addition perpendicular to first

two batter boards & set back 6 to 10 feet beyond corners. If cross-pieces
are long enough, attach one end to original batter board stake & other to
new 2 by 4 stake, forming L-shaped batter board at each corner. Both
crosspieces must be level with string lines.
8. Stretch string line between two batter boards parallel to house &
intersecting first two string lines at exact length of the two side walls of new
foundation.
Excavating for the Foundation

You can excavate foundation trenches by hand if your addition is small
& has shallow footings (12 to 15 inches deep). If it has deep footings, a
basement, or a sunken crawl space, you will need to hire a backhoe
service or rent a tractor with a backhoe.
To excavate, lay out excavation lines on ground with chalk, flour, or
spray paint. They should be far enough outside string lines to allow for
footing width plus work space (1 to 2 feet beyond outside edge of footing
& canted outward toward the top).
If soil is unstable or the excavation is more than 5 feet deep, cant sides
outward at least 45 degrees or shore them up to prevent cave-ins.
85
Building Forms & Setting Steel
Construction techniques vary de pending on whether you are building
a slab, perimeter, or full-basement foundation.
Slab Foundation
In moderate climates the slab & footing are poured as one unit. After
you have removed 3 or 4 inches of soil from inside the perimeter &
excavated the footing trenches, follow these steps.
1. Build forms around outside edge with 2-by lumber held by stakes every
1 1/2 to 3 feet. Use string lines to align forms & level top edge, which
should be at least
8 inches above grade. Trench walls form footing.
2. Dig trenches for any pipes running under the slab, & then backfill over
them.
3. Place 3 to 4 inches of sand or gravel inside perimeter of slab,
cover with polyethylene vapor barrier, & cover barrier with 2 inches
of sand.
4. Place horizontal reinforcing bars in trenches, resting bottom bar on

dobies (small concrete blocks) & suspending top bar with tie wire
hooked onto top of form. Tie vertical rebar onto horizontal bars.
5. Place steel reinforcing mesh over sand & under slab. Tie mesh to
rebar in trench & place 2-inch dobies under it every 3 or 4 feet.
In climates requiring deeper footings, slab & footings are usually poured
separately. If the slab is to rest on the footings, the trenches are adequate
for footing forms. Just place horizontal rebar in trenches, fill with
concrete, & place hooked lengths of rebar in fresh concrete to tie footing &
slab together. Then build a slab form as described above; place gravel or
sand, a vapor barrier, & another layer of sand within perimeter; tie
reinforcing wire mesh to curved hooks embedded in footing wall; & pour
slab.
If footing walls extend above grade & slab is poured within them, you
should build footing walls the same as perimeter foundation. Prepare &
86
pour slab as described above, placing special filler material between
foundation wall & slab to form an isolation joint.
Slab foundation: 6” wire mesh held above plastic with dobies; Slab at
least 4” thick & 8” above grade; Anchor bolts no more than 6’ apart & no
more than 12” from end of any mudsill; Footing 12” to 15” wide & deep
enough to reach below frost line; Splice rebar by overlapping & tying
with wire; 6-mil polyethylene over gravel; 3” to 1/4” layer of sand or
gravel; Rebar reinforcing in footing; Hooked rebar ties slab to footing;
Rebar dowels drilled into old foundation; Existing foundation; Existing
house.
Perimeter Foundation
For shallow foundations the footing & wall are poured together. For
deeper foundations with higher walls the footing is poured first, &
the wall is then formed & poured separately, or it's constructed of
concrete blocks.
To build a perimeter foundation of concrete blocks, follow the steps for

a full basement foundation. To build a concrete “inverted-T”
foundation, follow these steps.
1. Excavate footing trenches so foundation wall (which is narrower than

footing) aligns with string lines. Trench is form for the footing. Make
trench bottom level, sides straight, & corners square.
2. Construct wall forms of 2-by lumber & reuse it for floor joists. Nail
boards to tall stakes driven into bottom of trench, so inside faces of
87
lumber enclose required width of wall (6 inches for one story, 8 inches
for two stories). Space
stakes every 3 or 4 feet Level tops of form boards with string lines,
& make bottoms high enough to clear footing.
3. Insert special metal ties between form boards to keep heavy concrete
from forcing them apart. Wedges or other fastening devices at each end of
ties make it possible to free form boards after concrete sets.
4. Set rebar in place before the pour & fasten securely with tie wire.
Bottom rebar can rest on dobies or similar devices. To make placing
rebar easier, build one side of forms first, hang rebar, & then complete
the forms.
Perimeter foundation: Rebar in footing & foundation wall; Rebar dowels

cemented into holes drilled into existing foundation.
Forms & rebars for a perimeter foundation: The inside form is placed in
the same way as the outside form. The inside & outside forms are then
tied together with spacers & tie-straps. Steel tie-strap.
88
5. Mark locations for anchor bolts on forms & have bolts handy for day
of pour, or build jigs in order to position bolts before the pour. Bolts are
usually 1/2 by
10 inches for residential foundations.
6. A girder is usually required to support floor between foundation walls

for joist spans longer than 16 feet. Note location of posts & excavate for
pier footings at these points. Minimum footing dimensions are 18 by 18
inches & 12 inches below grade. Build simple box form to straddle
footing hole, at least 8 inches square & 8 inches high. Pour pier & footing
together & insert post- framing anchor into wet concrete.
Full Basement Foundation

If the walls are concrete they will need tall forms, a job for which you
should hire professionals. If the walls are concrete block, you can build
the basement foundation using the following steps.
1. Excavate 8 inches below floor level, to allow for 4-inch slab & 4
inches of gravel. Check plans for other thicknesses that must be
accounted for, such as insulation.
2. Dig footing trenches deep enough to pour slab over them after wall is
finished. (For example, footing 12 inches deep requires trench 8 inches
deep if gravel bed is 4 inches thick.)
89
3. Build forms along hp of trench with 2-by lumber. Set height by
measuring down from string lines a distance equally divisible by
measurement of concrete block & mortar so blocks will come out even at
top of foundation wall. Make tops of forms as level as possible, with no
more than 1/2 inch variance along entire form. Hold forms in place with 1
by 2 stakes every 2 feet & 1 by 2 ties across top.
4. Place horizontal rebar in forms, holding it off ground with the help of
3-inch dobies.
5. Order pieces of vertical rebar (which usually has a hook at bottom) cut
to length & bent as specified in plans. Mark their locations on form boards
so blocks will slip over them, & have them available for pour. Do not drive
them into ground.
90
Full basement foundation: New floor joists; Existing footing &
basement wall; Grade; Waterproof membrane; New concrete or
concrete block; Gravel & drain pipe
Footing forms for a basement foundation: Canted sides of excavation or

approved shoring; Rebar held 3” above bottom with dobies; Multiple of
concrete block height; String to bailer boards marks top of foundation.
Working with Concrete

No matter what kind of foundation you’re constructing, you’ll need to
work with concrete. This section tells you how to order, pour, & finish it.
91
Tying new foundation to old: Wire support for rebar; Existing foundation;
30” pieces of rebar cemented into holes in existing foundation & wired to
rebar in the new foundation
Working with rebar. Plans for most residential foundations specify #4
rebar, which is 5/8-inch in diameter. This size can be cut & bent fairly
easily. Larger sizes are more difficult to handle.
Use special cutting & bending tool for rebar, or cut it with metal cutoff
blade in a circular saw or hacksaw blade in a reciprocating saw. The
advantage of the specialized tool is that it also bends rebar.
Splice rebar with tie wire. Codes specify that two pieces overlap by at
least 40 diameters (equaling 20 inches for #4 bar) Codes also specify
“concrete cover” (minimum thickness of concrete surrounding rebar).
Where concrete is below grade, rebar must be placed at least 3 inches
from ground on all sides. Where concrete is above grade, cover must
be at least 1½-inches.
Pouring concrete against wood. If new foundation wall will be higher
than existing wall, due to sloping site or other conditions, protect wood
portions of existing house against direct contact with new concrete.
Tack aluminum sheet metal or other approved flashing against ex
posed wood framing or sheathing before pouring concrete against it.
Amount (in cubic yards). Estimate cubic yards by calculating cubic feet &
dividing by 27. Once you have carefully figured the volume needed, add at
least 5 percent for waste. It’s better to order too much than too little. Just
decide before delivery where to pour the excess.
92
Aggregate size. Use 3/4-inch aggregate for most jobs, although some
codes require a specific size. If you are having the concrete pumped,
check with the pumping company to see if their hoses will handle the
size aggregate you are using.
Cement content. This is specified as the number of sacks of cement per
cubic yard of concrete. A five-sack mix is normally specified when the
aggregate is ¾-inch. A six-sack mix is recommended for 3/8-inch
aggregate or for jobs where a higher strength of concrete is needed.
Other factors. You may also need to specify water to cement ratio (1 to 2
by weight is recommended for most residential foundations); slump (4
inches for most jobs; 6 inches for filling concrete block); & air
entrainment (an additive for cold climates, usually specified as 6
percent).
Concerning charges, you may have to pay other fees in addition to the per
yard for delivery. A pumping service is extra, usually an hourly fee & a
charge for each yard pumped. You may also have to pay a short-load
charge for orders under a certain minimum, such as 7 yards. A stand by
charge is a fee for any time the concrete truck must remain at your job
site after an allotted time limit (usually about 5 minutes per yard). This fee
can skyrocket if you are unprepared when the truck arrives.
93
Pouring concrete into forms: Strike hammer on stake to spread impact & effect
Preparing, pouring, & leveling the slab.
Laying Concrete Block

To lay concrete block, start with the two outside corner blocks of the first
lead, or course. Set each block into a layer of mortar & press down to
within 3/8-inch of footing. Stretch a line between them to guide the rest of
the first course.
Be sure to set blocks right side up. The edge of the block (the “web”) is
wider on the top of a block than on the bottom.
Lay mortar on footing & butter one end of each block as you set it in
place. Keep buttered end raised slightly & lower it to fit snugly against
preceding block in one smooth motion. Use trowel handle to tap block
level & blade to scrape away excess mortar. Butter both ends of last block
for each course. Constantly check your work with a level, both
horizontally & vertically.
Fill wall with concrete after finished wall has dried overnight. Even if
your plans don't require concrete in every space, you will have to fill
holes every 4 to 6 feet for setting anchor bolts. If codes don't require
concrete filling, pour insulating material, such as vermiculite, into
finished wall.
94
Mortar Joints and Pointing
There is no set rule governing the thickness of a brick masonry mortar
joint. Irregularly shaped bricks may require mortar joints up to 1/2 inch
thick to compensate for the irregularities. However, mortar joints 1/4
inch thick are the strongest. Use this thickness when the bricks are
regular enough in shape to permit it. A slushed joint is made simply by
depositing the mortar on top of the head joints and allowing it to run
down between the bricks to form a joint. You cannot make solid joints
this way. Even if you fill the space between the bricks completely, there
is no way you can compact the mortar against the brick faces;
consequently a poor bond results. The only effective way to build a good
joint is to trowel it. The secret of mortar joint construction and pointing
is in how you hold the trowel for spreading mortar.
The proper way to hold a trowel
Figure 4 shows the correct way to hold a trowel. Hold it firmly in the grip
shown, with your thumb resting on top of the handle, not encircling it. If
you are right-handed, pick up mortar from the outside of the mortar
board pile with the left edge of your trowel. You can pick up enough to
spread one to five bricks, depending on the wall space and your skill. A
pickup for one brick forms only a small pile along the left edge of the
trowel. A pickup for five bricks is a full load for a large trowel.
95
Poor mortar bond
If you are right-handed, work from left to right along the wall. Holding
the left edge of the trowel directly over the center line of the previous
course, tilt the trowel slightly and move it to the right (view 3), spreading
an equal amount of mortar on each brick until you either complete the
course or the trowel is empty (view 4). Return any mortar left over to the
mortar board.
96
Figure 7 Making a bed joint in a stretcher course.
Proper way to hold a brick when buttering the end
Making a head joint in a stretcher course.
97
Do not spread the mortar for a bed joint too far ahead of laying - four or
five brick lengths is best. Mortar spread out too far ahead dries out before
the bricks become bedded and causes a poor bond. The mortar must be
soft and plastic so that the brick will bed in it easily. Spread the mortar
about 1 inch thick and then make a shallow furrow in it (Figure 7, view 1).
A furrow that is too deep leaves a gap between the mortar and the bedded
brick. This reduces the resistance of the wall to water penetration. Using a
smooth, even stroke, cut off any mortar projecting beyond the wall line
with the edge of the trowel (view 2). Retain enough mortar on the trowel to
butter the left end of the first brick you will lay in the fresh mortar. Throw
the rest back on the mortar board. Pick up the first brick to be laid with
your thumb on one side of the brick and your fingers on the
other. Apply as much mortar as will stick to the end of the brick and then
push it into place (Figure 8). Squeeze out the excess mortar at the head
joint and at the sides. Make sure the mortar completely fills the head joint
(Figure 9). After bedding the brick, cut off the excess mortar and use it to
start the next end joint. Throw any surplus mortar back on the mortar
board where it can be restored to workability.
98
Figure 10 shows how to insert a brick into a space left in a wall. First, spread a
thick bed of mortar (view 1), and then shove the brick into the wall space (view
2) until mortar squeezes out of all four joints (view 3). This way, you know that
the joints are full of mortar at every point. To make a cross joint in a header
course, spread the bed joint mortar several brick widths in advance. Then,
spread mortar over the face of the header brick before placing it in the wall
(Figure 11, view 1). Next, shove the brick into place, squeezing out mortar at
the top of the joint. Finally, cut off the excess mortar as shown in view 2.
99
Figure 12 shows how to lay a closure brick in a header course. First,
spread about 1 inch of mortar on the sides of the brick already in place
(view 1), as well as on both sides of the closure brick (view 2). Then, lay
the closure brick carefully into position without disturbing the brick
already laid (view 3). If you do disturb any adjacent brick, cracks will form
between the brick and mortar, allowing moisture to penetrate the wall.
You should place a closure brick for a stretcher course using the same
techniques as for a header course. As we
mentioned earlier, filling exposed joints with mortar immediately after

laying a wall is called pointing. You can also fill holes and correct defective
mortar joints by pointing, using a pointing trowel.
The first step in laying a block wall is to carefully plan the project. When
using concrete block to build a wall, it is important to select the
dimensions of the wall based on the size of the block. Standard concrete
blocks are 7 5/8" wide, 7 5/8" deep, and 15 5/8" long. Assuming that the
mortar joint is 3/8" thick brings the block plus mortar dimensions to
8x8x16". You will want the outside dimension of the wall to be a multiple
of a half-block length (minus one mortar joint) so that you do not have to
cut blocks to a custom size. The height of the wall should also be a
multiple of the block height (including the mortar joint).
Laying the first course

The first step in building a concrete masonry wall is to locate the corners
of the structure. In locating the corners, you should also make sure the
footing or slab formation is level so that each builder starts each section
wall on a common plane. This also helps ensure that the bed joints are
straight when the sections are connected. If the foundation is badly out of
level, the entire first course should be laid before builders begin working
100
on other courses. If this is not possible, a level plane should be
established with a transit or engineer’s level.
Chase Out Bond
The second step is to chase out bond, or lay out, by placing the first
course of blocks without mortar (Figure 13, view 1).
Figure 14: Levelling and plumbing first course of blocks for a wall.
101
Checking each course at the corner.
Vertical joints.
102
Snap a chalk line to mark the footing and align the blocks accurately.
Then, use a piece of material 3/8 inch thick to properly space the blocks.
This helps you get an accurate measurement.
Checking the Horizontal Spacing.
Filling in the wall between corners

A story or course pole, which is a board with markings 8 inches apart
(figure 17), helps accurately place each masonry course. Also check the
horizontal block spacing by placing a level diagonally across the corners of
the blocks (figure 18). When filling in the wall between the corners, first
stretch a mason’s line along the extensor block edges from corner to
corner for each course. Then lay the top outside edge of each new block to
this line (figure 19). How you grip a block before laying is important. First,
tip it slightly toward you so that you can see the edge of the course below.
Then place the lower edge of the new block directly on
the edges of the block below (figure 19). Make all position adjustments
while the mortar is soft and plastic. Any adjustments you make after the
mortar stiffens will break the mortar bond and allow water to penetrate.
Level each block and align it to the mason’s line by tapping it lightly with
a trowel handle.
Installing the Closure Block

103
Fifth and last, before installing the closure block, butter both edges of the
opening and all four vertical edges of the closure block with mortar. Then,
lower the closure block carefully into place (figure 20). If any mortar falls
out, leaving an open joint, remove the block and repeat the procedure. To
assure a good bond, do not spread mortar too far ahead when actually
laying blocks. If you do, the mortar will stiffen and lose its plasticity. The
recommended width of mortar joints for concrete masonry units is 3/8
inch. When properly made, these joints produce a weathertight, neat, and
durable concrete masonry wall.
As you lay each block, cut off excess mortar from the joints using a trowel
(figure
21) and throw it back on the mortar board to rework into the fresh
mortar. Do not, however, rework any mortar dropped on the scaffold or
floor. Weathertight joints and the neat appearance of concrete masonry
walls depend on proper striking (tooling). After laying a section of the wall,
tool the mortar joint when the mortar becomes “thumb print” hard.
Tooling compacts the mortar and forces it
tightly against the masonry on each side of the joint. Use either concave or
V-shaped tooling on all joints (figure 22).
Tool horizontal joints (figure 23, view 1) with a long jointer first, followed
by tooling the vertical joints (view 2). Trim off mortar burrs from the
tooling flush with the wall face using a trowel, soft bristle brush, or by
rubbing with a burlap bag.
104
A procedure known as pointing may be required after jointing. Pointing is
the process of inserting mortar into horizontal and vertical joints after the
unit has been laid. Basically, pointing is done to restore or replace
deteriorated surface mortar in old work. Pointing of this nature is called
tuck pointing. However, even in freshly laid masonry, pointing may be
necessary for filling holes or correcting defective joints.
You must prepare in advance for installing wood plates with anchor bolts on
top of hollow concrete masonry walls. To do this, place pieces of metal lath in
the second horizontal mortar joint from the top of the wall under the cores that
will contain the bolts (figure 24, view 1). Use anchor bolts 1/2 inch in diameter
and 18 inches long. Space them not more than 4 feet apart. Then, when you
complete the top course, insert the bolts into the cores of the top two courses
and till the cores with concrete or mortar. The metal lath underneath holds the
concrete or mortar filling in place. The threaded end of the bolt should extend
above the top of the wall (view 2)
6. Pour a level footing, using hand mixed cement and proper reinforcement.
105
A footing is a concrete structure upon which a wall is built. Figure 25
shows a typical footing formwork for a bearing wall, and figure 26 shows
bracing methods for a bearing footing. A bearing wall, also called a load-
bearing wall, is an exterior wall that serves as an enclosure and also
transmits structural loads to the foundation. The form sides are 2-inch
lumber whose width equals the footing depth. Stakes hold the sides in
place while spreaders maintain the correct distance between them. The
short braces at each stake hold the form in line. A keyway is made in the
wet concrete by placing a 2-by-2-inch board along the center of the wall
footing form. After the concrete is dry, the board is removed. This leaves
an indentation, or key, in the concrete. When you pour the foundation
wall, the key provides a tie between the footing and wall.
Concrete is strong under compression, but relatively weak under tension.
The reverse is true for steel. Therefore, when the two are combined, one
makes up for the deficiency of the other. When steel is embedded in
concrete in a manner that assists it in carrying imposed loads, the
combination is known as reinforced concrete. The steel may consist of
welded wire fabric or expanded metal mesh, but, more often, it consists of
reinforcing bars, or more commonly "rebar."
106
Laying concrete block: Rebar driven into bottom of trench in line with the first
hole in every fourth block—every 4’ with 16” blocks; Dry run of blocks laid
beside the footing trench to set the position of rebar; Line up first course on
mason twine; First course corner block; Shallow keyway provides additional
support; Footing; Mason’s line block; First course corner block; Set each block
in place & tap it gently to line it up with the string; After the first few courses,
add additional lengths of rebar by sliding them down the cavity beside the first
rod. Tamp the concrete to hold the new rod tightly
Basic operations for Perform laying brick/block for structure
1. The first step in building a concrete masonry wall is to locate the______________?

a. Corners of the structure
b. Block
c. Foundation
d. Wall
2. The first step in laying a block wall is to carefully plan the ________?.
a. Beam
107
b. Column
c. Project
d. House
3. To lay concrete block, start with the two outside corner __________ of the first lead,
or course.
a. Cement
b. Block
c. Rebar
d. Aggregates
4. Wear an appropriate ____________ for the particular job to do.
a. Tools
b. PPE
c. Helmet
d. T-shirt
5. Make ____________ and follow building lines.

a. Lay-out
b. Stake
c. Blocks
d. Lines
Reading and interpreting graphs and tables

LESSON 16-17
WEEK 17-18
108
consistent with job requirements.
per job required.
Read and understand graphs, tables, charts and diagrams
1 Graphs
Scope:
Students need to be able to:
 read and interpret specific points from a graph,

 interpret the shape of a graph. [NOE].
What students need to know?

A graph shows the relationship between two quantities – for example, the
temperature at different times of day or the value of a second hand car at
different ages. The line on the graph is drawn through all of the points of
known information. So, we can use the graph to read off the information -
for example, the temperature at a particular time or the value of the car at
a particular age. We can read in either direction. The important point is
that the lines we draw on the graph, from our known starting point to
what we want to find out, must be vertical or horizontal.
109
Note: This is not an exact science. You cannot read the scale completely accurately.
(Don’t try giving an answer like 62.85mins!). However, students must use a sharp pencil
and draw the lines as neatly as possible
Graphs tell stories! As something changes over time, the shape of the graph
describes the change. We can tell the story of the change by interpreting the
graph.
2. Tables
Scope:
110
 extract information from tables of data (and perform calculations on it),
 read two-way data tables
.
What students need to know?
Putting information into a table is a useful way of neatly showing a lot of
information in a way that is easy to read. The important thing to recognize is that
you are only going to need to use a very small part of this information. So,
remember to check carefully what it is that you need to know. Then find the
correct column and row containing the information you need.
Example Question:
What is the total cost of a holiday for 1 adult and 2 children at the Tides End hotel departing on
the 5th of August?
Departure date Spring View Tides End Summer Breeze
Holiday price (£) Holiday price (£) Holiday price (£)
Adult Child Adult Child Adult Child
Apr 1 – Apr 30
May 1 – June 20
June 21 - Aug 3
Aug 4 – Sept 1 230 170
Sept 2 – Dec 31
Solution:
111
Reading from the table:
1 adult costs £230
1 child costs £170, so 2 children cost £340

Total £230 + £340 = £570
3. Charts
Scope:
 read and interpret information from pie charts, including choosing a pie
chart which represents given information and calculating the numbers
represented by a given category,
 read and interpret information from bar charts,
 read and interpret information from pictograms.
What students need to know:
Pie Charts
A pie chart is a graphic representation of data in different categories. The easiest

way to read a pie chart is to make an estimate of the percentage, or fraction,
shown for each category.
For example:
112
This table shows the results of a survey to determine the favourite colours of 300
people.
Favourite
Colour
Red 150
Blue 30
Green 75
Yellow 45
You can see that 150 people said red. 150 out of 300 is a half.
30 people said blue. 30 out of 300 is a tenth.
75 people said green. 75 out of 300 is a quarter.
There is only one segment left, so this is enough – you can complete the pie chart
with this information.
However, you may be able to see that 45 out of 300 is three twentieths!
So, this is the pie chart:
Red
Blue
If you know the total of the data shown in a pie chart, you can use the percentage or
fraction for each slice to work out how many people the slice represents. If you had an
angle measurer, you could measure the angle and use the fraction of that angle out of
360. In tests, you will not need to measure
Example Question:
113
The pie chart shows a survey of 120 people, which asked them
what their favorite soft drink was. How many people said
“Tingle”?
Solution:
Looking at the chart shows that a quarter of the people said
“Tingle”.
Red
Blue
A quarter of 120 is 30 people.

Reading and interpreting graphs and tables
1. A ____________ shows the relationship between two quantities?
a. competency
b. cement
c. graph
d. Block
2. The shape of the _________ describes the change
a. Block
b. Layout
c. Graph
d. None of the above
3. Graphs tell stories, yes or no?
a. Yes
114
b. No
c. None of the above
d. All of the above
4. The ___________ only shows how far away from her starting point the snail
has gone after so much time?
a. Level
b. layout
c. building lines
d. Graph
5.A ____________ is a graphic representation of data in different categories.
a. Pie chart
b. Table
c. Graph
d. all of these
115
References/Further Reading
 Blondet M. (2005), Construction and Maintenance of Masonry
Houses, Pontifica Universidad Catolica del Peru, Lima,
www.eeri.org/lfe/clearinghouse/kashmir/resources.html
 City (year n/a), Confined Masonry Construction, City University London,

www.staff.city.ac.uk/earthquakes/MasonryBrick/ConfinedBrickMasonryP.htm
 Earthquake Hazard Centre, Newsletter, Victoria University of

Wellington, New Zealand, www.vuw.ac.nz/architecture/research/ehc/
 AIS 2001), Manual de construccion, evaluacion y rehabilitacion

sismo resistente en viviendas e mamposteria, Asociation Colombiana
de Ingenieria Sismica,
www.desenredando.org/public/libros/2001/cersrvm/index.html
 NICEE (2004), Guidelines for Earthquake Resistant Non-Engineered

Construction, Chapter IV: Buildings in Fired-Brick and other Masonry
Units, National Information Centre of Earthquake Engineering, IIT Kanput,
www.iitk.ac.in/nicee/iaee english/Chapter4.pdf
 Training Regulation – Masonry NC II
 CBC – Masonry NC II
 Burke, Stanley R., & Wakeman, T. J. (1990). MODERN
AGRICULTURAL MECHANICS (2nd ed.). Danville, IL: Interstate
Publishers.
116
 Cooper, Elmer L. (1987). AGRICULTURAL
MECHANICS:FUNDAMENTALS AND APPLICATIONS. Albany, NY:
Delmar Publishers.
 Editors of Reader's Digest. (1973). COMPLETE DO-IT-YOURSELF

MANUAL (7th ed.). Pleasantville, NY: Reader's Digest Association.
 Wagner, Willis H. (1979). MODERN CARPENTRY: Building

Construction Details in Easy-to-Understand Form (4th ed.). So.
Holland, IL: Goodheart-Willcox.
 NCES, Students Classroom: Create A Graph

(American Site) http://nces.ed.gov/nceskids/graphing/
An interactive overview of different chart types.
 BBC Bitesize Revision: Maths: Representing Data

http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/maths/datahandlingfi/repres
enting datarev1.shtml
 BBC Skillswise: Numbers: Timetables

http://www.bbc.co.uk/skillswise/numbers/measuring/time/timet
ables/
 http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2layconcreteblock#.UTNgxpbkcdo#ixzz
2MUKLbp9G
Prepared by:
VERGELIO F. COLI JR.

Instructor
Reviewed and Checked by:

NANCY CHIONG-MAGBANUA, MSIT
Academic Dean
117
Noted by:

www.sibugaytech07@gmail.com
Email Address: alface@gmail.com
Telefax: (062)222-2469, Mobile No.: 09171271902
(COLLEGE)
CHED ACCREDITED COURSES
BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY
BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN COMPUTER SCIENCE
BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN BUSINESS ADMINISTRATION

MAJOR IN HUMAN MANAGEMENT
BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN MIDWIFERY
BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN AGRICULTURE MAJOR IN :

: ANIMAL SCIENCE : CROP SCIENCE
BACHELOR OF TECHNICAL-VOCATIONAL TEACHERS

EDUCATION MAJOR IN :
118
: AUTOMOTIVE TECHNOLOGY
: FOOD AND SWERVICE MANAGEMENT
BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN HOSPITALITY
BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN CRIMINOLOGY

www.sibugaytech07@gmail.com
Email Address: alface@gmail.com
Telefax: (062)222-2469, Mobile No.: 09171271902
STII TRAINING CENTER
AGRICULTURAL CROPS PRODUCTION NC II

 ANIMAL PRODUCTION (POUTRY CHICKEN) NC II
 ANIMAL PRODUCTION (RUMINANTS) NC II
 ANIMAL PRODUCTION (SWINE) NC II
 BARTENDING NC II
 BOOKKEEPING NC III
 BREAD & PASTRY PRODUCTION NC II
 CAREGIVING NC II
 DRIVING NC II
 ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS ASSEMBLY SERVICING NC II
 EVENTS MANAGEMENT SERVICES NC III
 FOOD AND BEVERAGE SERVICES NC II
 FRONT OFFICE SERVICES NC II
 HEAVY EQUIPMENT OPERATOR (HYDRAULIC EXCAVATOR) NC II
 HOUSEKEEPING NCII
 MOTORCYCLE/SMALL ENGINE SERVICING NC II
 ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II
 PHARMACY SERVICES NC III
119
 RUBBER PRODUCTION NC II
 SHIELDED METAL ARC WELDING NC I
 SHIELDED METAL ARC WELDING NC II
 TRAINERS METHODOLOGY COURSE
 AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC I
 AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC II
 HEALTH CARE SERVICES NC II
 HEAVY EQUIPMENT OPERATOR (BACKHOE LOADER) NC II
 MOTORCYCLE/SMALL ENGINE SERVICING NC II
 CAREGIVING NC II
 BARTENDING NC II

 SIBUGAY TECHNICAL INSTITUTE INCORPORATED
 Lower Taway, Ipil, Zamboanga Sibugay
 www.sibugaytech.edu.ph
 Email Address: alface@gmail.com
 Telefax: (062)222-2469, Mobile No.: 09171271902
Voucher
Program
 SENIOR HIGH SCHOOL

INDUSTRIAL ARTS

 DRIVING NC II


 AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC I

 AUTOMOTIVE SERVICING NC II
HOME ECONOMICS


 HOUSEKEEPING NC II

 FOOD AND BEVERAGES SERVICES NC II

 BREAD AND PASTRY PRODUCTION NC II
INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATION TECHNOLOGY

 2D ANIMATION NC III

 COMPUTER SYSTEM SERVICING NC II

 ELECTRONIC PRODUCTS ASSEMBLY SERVICES NC II

AGRICULTURAL TECHNOLOGY STRAND
 ANIMAL PRODUCTION (POULTRY CHICKEN) NC II

 ANIMAL PRODUCTION (RUMINANTS) NC II 120
 ANIMAL PRODUCTION (SWINE) NC II
 RUBBER PRODUCTION NC II
 ORGANIC AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTION NC II
ACADEMIC TRACK
HUMANITIES AND SOCIAL SCIENCES

121

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SIBUGAY TECHNICAL INSTITUTE INCORPORATED

Lower Taway, Ipil, Zamboanga Sibugay

LEARNER’S MODULE FOR

TEACHER CONTACT NO.

Week 4 (Unit Examination)

Week 18 (Final Examination)

Assessing and choosing PPE

Information, instruction and training on PPE use

Duties of employees regarding PPE

Hand and arm protection

4. Safety Gloves - used for the hand, to

5. Safety Glasses - used for eye protection

6. Cover all suit/Apron - is an outer

Match column A with column B

C. ENUMERATION – Give at-least 9 Personal Protective Equipment

PERFORM LAYING BRICK/BLOCK FOR STRUCTURE

After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:

1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.

2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent

3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per

Reinforcement for the

This is the tools we use to

A piece of wood, it hold

This tools are always use

LESSON 3-4 WEEK 5-6

After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:

1. Read and interpret plans as per job required.

2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent

3. Properly execute the project according to the plans as per

4. Identify the correct reinforcement bar for the laying of Block/brick

5. Select and fix reinforcement bar for the job requirement.

When placing a concrete foundation which will have concrete masonry

Observe the rebar configuration while the concrete is placed. If shifting

PLACING AND TYING REINFORCING STEEL

Figure 7-19.-Precast concrete block used for rebar support.

Table 7-7.-Length of Lap Splices in Reinforcing Steel

The minimum clear distance between parallel bars in beams, footings,

18) Can be obtained in heights up to 6 inches (15 cm). When a height

Figure 7-25.-Column assembly.

Figure 7-26.-Method of holding column steel in plain in formwork.

Figure 7-27.-Steel in place in a footing.

Steel is placed in footings very much as it is placed in floor slabs. Stones,

Reinforcement shall be located such that it

Reinforced hollow Wall with vertical

Pocket type wall reinforcing pockets

Reinforcement bars/dowel Sizes

C. Multiple choice, Circle the best answer.

1. The standard measurement of the dowels or the re-inforcement is…

4. The dowels must be…

5.Rebar’s is made in…

2. Select and prepared materials, tools and equipment consistent with

4. Know the different type of concrete hallow blocks.

5. Know the proper procedure of block laying.

There are two types of masonry concrete blocks. Solid masonry

Cellular blocks have a cavity and offers the same function as

When selecting which block to use, consider the following:

Commercial buildings have different requirements to those

40cm (length) X 20 cm (width) X 4 in (thickness)

 Continue to stagger the blocks–working from the corners–and

Concrete Hallow Blocks Reinforcement bar/Dowell

1. Select the Right

SELECT THE RIGHT BLOCKS FOR THE JOB

 This figure shows a few of the many types of concrete blocks