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Bloomberg Businessweek - November 22, 2021 USA
Bloomberg Businessweek - November 22, 2021 USA
Bloomberg Businessweek - November 22, 2021 USA
blpprofessional.com/webinars
November 22, 2021
58 Child-Care Repair
Everyone knows it’s unaffordable. It’s also the toughest business in America
CONTENTS Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
IN BRIEF 9 Elon Musk ○ Steve Bannon ○ The QAnon Shaman COVER TRAIL
OPINION 10 COP26 yielded real progress. Just not enough How the cover
AGENDA 10 Zoom earnings ○ Grammy Awards ○ Holiday travels gets made
①
“This week we’re
REMARKS 16 Strongmen are roaring, and that means they’re scared doing a special report
about inflation.”
BUSINESS 19 Retail’s Christmas specials won’t be so special this year “Oh, no! Should I go find
1 21 The painful lessons of GM’s India misadventure a gas line to wait in?”
23 How three female executives cannily managed Covid “Not yet. I need you to
make a magazine cover.”
ECONOMICS 36 Xi’s move to cool the real estate market chills growth
4 37 Russia’s labor shortage gives wages a boost
38 A key Fed member’s views on jobs and inflation
“Creepy! I thought
Halloween was
POLITICS 40 How tough can the EU get with Hungary and Poland?
5 42 The lawyer fighting to save Roe, and how she’ll do it
last month.”
“Really??”
PURSUITS 67 The real Maurizio Gucci story, from one who really knows
72 That dark little corner needs a bright little lamp
74 No kids allowed on this cruise, and for very good reasons
75 Louis Vuitton’s new Keepall is smaller, and so much softer
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ƀƉƂƁŇŠƁƈƃƅƃƈƁ
IN BRIEF Bloomberg Businessweek By Benedikt Kammel
$8.8b to 41 months on
CANADA: DARRYL DYCK/THE CANADIAN PRESS/AP. CHANSLEY: SELCUK ACAR/NURPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES. BANNON: WIN MCNAMEE/GETTY IMAGES. SOLOMON: BRYAN VAN DER BEEK/BLOOMBERG
nership with Bloomberg Philanthropies, in pressing to close Jamie Dimon attends Nominations for the AAA estimates travel
a fireside chat on Nov. 23 64th Grammy Awards this Thanksgiving
coal plants in the U.S. shows what can be done. In the space of at Boston College. will be announced on will approach pre-
a decade, the Beyond Coal campaign helped retire two-thirds The JPMorgan Chase Nov. 23; the ceremony pandemic levels, with
CEO has been a major will be held at the end 53.4 million Americans
of U.S. coal plants, making a total phaseout by 2030 feasible. proponent of getting of January. Last year’s taking planes, trains,
An allied campaign, Europe Beyond Coal, accelerated the employees back to winners included Billie and automobiles for
the office. Eilish and Taylor Swift. the holiday.
retirement of almost half of Europe’s coal plants in less than
The Next Level in
Renewable Energy
bloomberg.com/questforbetter
With a strong track
record on Covid-19
and momentum
building among
foreign direct investors,
Togolese President
Faure Essozimna
Gnassingbé has cause
to be optimistic about his
country’s prospects. Here
he explains why Togo’s
future looks so bright.
What was the impact of the set up a Covid-19 solidarity and its natural deepwater port and
Covid-19 pandemic in Togo, economic recovery fund worth geostrategic regional position,
and how did the Togolese more than 400 billion CFA francs. combined with easy access to
authorities respond? regional hinterland countries
From a health perspective, we ʵ˥˘˔˖˧˜˚˦ ˜˙˧ ˔˗˗˘˖˜˦˜˩˘ thanks to its corridor shape, Togo
were fortunate that the impact and taking timely health remains the natural gateway to
was limited, thanks to our measures while providing direct West Africa.
early response, which included support to fragile households and
the swift implementation of businesses, we have escaped ˇ˚˜˦˔ ˦˔Ѓ˔˖˜˔ ˛˨˕
health and social distancing the severe recession that many hosting the headquarters
measures, supported by an believed would be inevitable of many regional banking
extensive communication and and irreversible. In 2020, the institutions, as well as private
communities education program. Togolese economy recorded pan-African groups like Ecobank
Togo’s Covid response is ranked economic growth of 1.8%, and and Orabank. Finally, Togo is a
the second-best of all African we are expecting a return of the stable and secure country. We
countries by the Lowy Institute country’s GDP to a sustained have constantly invested over the
and 16th in its world ranking of 98 growth level of 5.3% in 2021. last few years to ensure security
countries. for all national and international
What are Togo’s strengths residents, as well as economic
Since then, we’ve focused as a destination for operators—and we have secured
our efforts on vaccinating the investment and business? better air, road and maritime
ˣˣ˨ ˔˧˜˔˦ ˘Ѓ˥ˠ ˕˘ ˜˘˩˘ Togo offers an attractive and logistics, too.
that vaccination remains by secure environment for foreign
far the most effective way to investors and has one of the most What business reforms has
Ѓ˚˛˧˧˛˘˗˜˦˘˔˦˘ʡʵ˧˛˘˘˗ open economies in the West Togo undergone in recent
of September 2021, Togo had African region. years?
acquired a total of 1.848 million Our vision for development
doses, and we hope to reach the Last year, Togo registered 12,592 positions the private sector
goal of 1 million fully vaccinated new businesses, and 23% of these as the main growth engine to
adults by the end of 2021. We also involved foreign investment. With build the modern and agile
ADVERTISEMENT
economy we seek for the future to enable fully integrated value In addition, we are deploying
of our people—a sustainable chains within the agricultural ˧˛˨˦˔˗˦˙˧˥ˣ˦˧Ѓ˚˛˧
economy that we want to be both sector and create the right crime and prevent cross-border
competitive and inclusive. ecosystems for the emergence risks, because we recognize that
of new industries within the stability and security, both on
Our objective is to empower food, agribusiness, textile, land and at sea, are essential
entrepreneurs and private pharmaceuticals, automotive assets for Togo. They are vital
investors so that we enable the and recycling sectors. PIA will ingredients for promoting and
private sector to effectively ensure that Togo gets a better strengthening trust, especially for
drive economic growth and job share of the added value of our development partners.
creation. It’s why we have been these industries through local
so actively engaged in improving processing and the development How do you see the future of
Togo’s business environment of high-potential, exports- Africa?
over the past few years, with oriented activities. The African continent has
a new dedicated institutional shown strong resilience and
framework designed to drive an This very ambitious and agility during the Covid-19 crisis.
ambitious agenda of relevant transformative project is the Alongside knowledge, these
administrative, institutional and result of a comprehensive attributes are the building blocks
regulatory reforms. public-private partnership, of our core common African
and a perfect illustration of DNA—and I have no doubt that
The successful implementation what I like to call the “Togolese Africa will continue to progress in
of these reforms has been experience.” Having begun in the coming years.
recognized by several June 6, 2020, the project was
international institutions, which completed in less than a year, Like in Togo, key strategic areas
is really encouraging, and it has and it’s a true example of what such as agriculture, education,
also resulted in the arrival of can be achieved as part of a health, energy and security
renowned international investors solid development strategy, are progressing across the
in our country. combining public policies, private continent, bringing with them
partnerships and valuable positive changes for the societies
Who are the main investors support from international and peoples of Africa. Already,
attracted by Togo, and what donors. transformative reforms are well
are the most relevant sectors for underway on the continent—
investment? Security and stability are and these include the African
FDI doubled between 2014 and major challenges in West Continental Free Trade Area
2018, and we see this trend Africa and the Gulf of Guinea. (AfCFTA), which will be the largest
continuing. Infrastructure, How is Togo approaching these in the world.
logistics, energy and mining, challenges?
banking, telecommunications Togo is resolutely facing up to I am convinced that Africa’s
and agro-industrial processing all these challenges by taking future is more than promising
are the most dynamic sectors constructive action, both and that all African states are
with attractive investment domestically and regionally. determined to work toward it. This
opportunities. At a regional level, we are future begins now.
actively contributing to the
Large international groups United Nations operation in Mali
recognized for their high [MINUSMA] with a contingent of
standards, such as the ARISE 1,100 peacekeepers. We were the ʵ˅˂ˈ˝ʻˇˇ˂ˌ˂ˈʵˌ
group [Olam], Mediterranean Ѓ˥˦˧˖˨˧˥˧%˜˧˛˜˦ˣ˘˥˔˧˜
Shipping Company [MSC], back in January 2013.
Ecobank, Oragroup, Axian, ECP,
Eranove and Dangote, among We also carry out extensive
others, have chosen Togo to set diplomacy work to support
up their operations, and invest in and facilitate the transitions
Togo’s dynamic growth. underway in our neighboring
countries of Mali and Chad—and
Last year, Togo launched Lomé hosted the meeting of the For more information,
the Adétikopé Industrial Mali Transition Monitoring and email contact@apizf.tg
Platform. How can this new Support Group [GST-Mali] in cca@presidence.gouv.tg
infrastructure help accelerate March this year. We’re also taking
Togo’s industrial steps to ensure our own security; or visit
transformation? a new law designed to modernize presidence.gouv.tg
The Industrial Platform of the army between now and 2025 investissement.gouv.tg
Adetikopé [PIA] was designed has just passed. apizf.tg
REMARKS
Strongmen?
Us?
16
○ Don’t let their confidence fool you: backlash suffered by many governments in developed
democracies. That was true regardless of whether they,
Xi, Putin, and other authoritarians are like Xi, imposed tough lockdowns and restrictions, or they,
increasingly vulnerable at home like Putin, downplayed the disease’s threat. (Remember the
advice of Belarus President Alexander Lukashenko to fight
Covid with vodka and tractor riding?)
○ By Marc Champion Now, as the pandemic grinds on, that advantage is in doubt.
Russia is struggling to reduce record Covid fatalities; its
households have been getting poorer, and Putin’s approval
China’s President Xi Jinping is cracking down on Big Tech, ratings have fallen. China’s strict Covid policies paid big div-
rattling sabers over Taiwan, and testing hypersonic missiles idends when its economy bounced back, with growth from
in space. Turkey’s President Recep Tayyip Erdogan has taken a year earlier hitting 18.3% in the first quarter of 2021. But
on global financial markets and briefly threatened to throw Xi’s zero-case approach to battling Covid forced the contin-
out ambassadors from 10 countries. And in Moscow, President ued lockdown of borders and cities that, together with his
Vladimir Putin moved enough troops toward Ukraine to crackdown on capitalist excess, has sapped growth. Erdogan,
convince the U.S. that invasion could be imminent. Almost above all, has floundered in his attempt to contain what you
two years into a pandemic that left many democracies reel- might call economic long Covid.
ing, authoritarians around the globe are getting feisty. Many democratic governments are in deep trouble, too,
But scratch through the rhetoric—sometimes triumphant, including that of the U.S. But one advantage of democracies
other times belligerent—and much of what these strong- is coming into its own at this stage of the pandemic, says Ivan
men do also reveals their domestic vulnerability, because Krastev, chairman of the Bulgaria-based Centre for Liberal
the pandemic has been tough on them, too. Many failed the Strategies, a think tank: They can afford failure. When elected
MIKHAIL SVETLOV/GETTY IMAGES
Covid-19 response test at least as dismally as their counter- governments are perceived to have bungled so fundamental a
parts in democratic countries. The resulting mix of insecu- task as protecting the lives of their citizens, they can pay the
rity at home and confidence abroad is a recipe for instability price at the ballot box, leaving the state bruised but intact.
and risk. That’s even true for populists, the would-be authoritarians
At the start of the Covid crisis, authoritarian leaders as a who still face the test of meaningful elections. Pandemic fail-
group seemed better able to avoid the public and economic ures contributed to the defeat of former President Donald
REMARKS Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
Trump in the U.S. and more recently Andrej Babis, the Czech the party’s legitimacy with a public exhausted by some of
prime minister. “We’re seeing the end of a populist cycle,” these pathologies of China’s transformation, Macaes says.
says Krastev—but there’s no such cycle for leaders able to rig The question is whether Xi has taken on so many simulta-
or ignore elections. “In an autocracy, all problems are owned neous challenges as a carefully calibrated tactic to consolidate
by the system itself,” he says. his position or as an act of hubris, says Andrew Gilholm, a prin-
At a Moscow event in October with foreign policy analysts cipal focusing on Asia at Control Risks, a consulting firm that
from around the world, Putin seemed relaxed and confident, assesses threats for corporations. Hubris—encouraged not just
treating the pandemic as final proof that the U.S.-dominated by democracies’ struggles with the pandemic but the chaotic
liberal world order was dead. Covid performed a geopoliti- U.S. withdrawal from Afghanistan—would be more dangerous.
cal function similar to a major war and tilted the balance of Xi’s response to the Covid challenge has been deft com-
power in Russia’s favor, according to Sergei Karaganov, the pared to Erdogan’s in Turkey. Faced with falling popular-
dean of Russian foreign policy research and a co-founder ity, Erdogan forced the central bank to lower interest rates,
of the Valdai Discussion Club forum where Putin spoke on pumping credit into the economy even as inflation hit 19.9%
Oct. 21. “Never has Russia been in better geopolitical shape,” in October. That tightrope act worked in the past to keep the
he says. “China is an ally, and the West is disorganized, so we economy afloat ahead of elections, but at a price so high to
have no opponent worth talking about.” Turkey’s currency and open economy that any advantages to
There’s a caveat to Karaganov’s triumphalism. “Covid or be gained from cheaper exports were swamped. And it may
not,” he says, “if Russia continues with a good economic pol- not work again. Measured against the dollar, the Turkish lira
icy and returns some elements of democracy, it will be OK.” today is worth less than a fifth of what it was in 2012, before
Those are big “ifs.” Russians have been watching their Erdogan started imposing direct control over the central bank
disposable income fall for years, in part because of policies and other institutions.
that have cut trade with and investment from the West. And More threatening to Erdogan’s hold on power is that poorer
the recent political trend has been away from democratiza- Turks, the bedrock of his political support, were hit hardest
tion toward a security state, exemplified by the unusually during the pandemic. “Turks were left on their own,” and their
harsh crackdown on Putin’s political opponents ahead of overwhelming concern is the economy now, says Galip Dalay,
September’s elections. a Turkey specialist and fellow at the Robert Bosch Academy, 17
None of that demonstrates confidence at home, says a Berlin think tank. Opposition parties have already won con-
Thomas Graham, a distinguished fellow at the Council on trol of the country’s major cities. So though Erdogan in recent
Foreign Relations who served on the U.S. National Security years seemed to take a leaf out of Putin’s book—tapping nation-
Council under former President George W. Bush. Officials alist pride to lift support through operations in Azerbaijan,
inside the Kremlin know Russians are unhappy, and “they Libya, and Syria—he’s unlikely to benefit from a repeat. “For
have done what they do in these circumstances—crack down the first time,” says Dalay, “I think Erdogan is in real trouble.”
hard on anything that could be a threat,” he says. The conundrum for Erdogan and Putin, says Oksana
Putin, like Xi, faces no foreseeable risk of removal and for Antonenko, a director at Control Risks focused on Europe
now is enjoying a revenue boost from high energy prices. and Africa, is that their old playbooks no longer seem to work.
But the pandemic has accelerated some worrying trends, Another Russian military adventure abroad can’t be ruled out;
says Dmitry Suslov, an international relations scholar at Russia’s continued backing of Lukashenko as he weaponizes
Moscow’s HSE University. In Russia’s case, it has exposed a Middle Eastern migrants against the European Union, and its
chasm between citizens and the authorities, even as the abil- renewed buildup of forces around Ukraine, suggests little in
ity to quickly develop the Sputnik V vaccine confirmed the the Kremlin’s toolbox has changed. Yet military aggression is
country’s position as a technological power. no longer guaranteed to bring cheers from Putin’s domestic
“In Russia the vaccine has been more available for longer audience. Only 32% of Russians still say the country’s status
than anywhere else in the world,” yet, at about 35%, its vacci- as a great power is the most important issue, compared with
nation rate lags the world average, says Suslov. “It just shows 66% whose top concern is their standard of living, accord-
the climate, the general mistrust of the state. That does not nec- ing to an August poll by the Moscow-based Levada Analytical
essarily result in protests but in indifference and alienation.” Center. The bigger risk to stability now, says Antonenko, may
It was precisely the Communist Party of China’s awareness lie in the fragility of a regime that seems unable to adapt.
of these systemic risks that shaped its zero-tolerance response Xi is consolidating his power in China to levels surpassed
to Covid, according to Bruno Macaes, a former Europe min- only by Mao Zedong. But two years into the pandemic, the
ister in Portugal and a China specialist. The party leader- world’s authoritarians collectively are in worse shape than
ship cast the fight against the virus as a national security they’d have the world believe, and that’s anything but reas-
threat from the start, shaping a more assertive foreign policy, suring, for them or their neighbors. “We’re looking at fragile
encapsulated by so-called Wolf Warrior diplomacy. At home, states not only from the traditional perspective of the Global
Xi’s Marxism-tinged pressure on tech companies, property South,” says Antonenko. “Fragility is increasingly present now
speculation, and private tutoring was meant to shore up in the Global North, too.”
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Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
Retailers Gain B
The Upper Hand U
○ Supply chain disruptions will
mean fewer deep discounts for
shoppers this Christmas
merchants are forecasting demand to be strong,
while gummed up supply chains translate into hav-
ing less inventory to sell. That means there’s no need
to be as promotional as during Christmases past.
S
I
While it makes sense on paper, the strategy has
plenty of risks. After cutting back at the height of
Christmas holiday discounts have become a ritual Covid-19, Americans have splurged this year, and
of U.S. retailing, with shoppers lining up outside sales growth estimates for the holiday season range
malls on the day after Thanksgiving hoping to snag
a deal for $19 air fryers or cheap flat-screen TVs.
Even during the pandemic, the traditional yearend
dash for deals continued, as shoppers accustomed
from 6% to about 10% from 2020. But now shoppers
are facing rising costs for basics such as food, gaso-
line, and energy. Year-over-year inflation rose 6.2%
in October, the largest increase since 1990.
N
to price cuts of up to 40% simply shifted to order-
ing online. But U.S. retailers are making a risky bet
this holiday season by cutting back on discounting.
Their calculation is a simple one. Many
Inflation worries have also driven down con-
sumer confidence. And spending could be muted
by surging transportation costs that have limited
the selection of goods at many chains by making
E 19
S
S
PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY 731; PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Edited by
James E. Ellis
BUSINESS Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
some items too expensive to ship. One toymaker the White House increased attention by calling for
said there wouldn’t be as many bulky stuffed ani- countermeasures, including running shipping ter-
mals and toy trucks on shelves, because companies minals 24 hours a day. “We’re going to help speed
were reserving whatever precious cargo space they up the delivery of goods, all across America,”
could secure for their highest-margin goods. President Joe Biden said at the time.
“This is going to be an unpredictable season,” “Last year consumers knew about supply chain
says Craig Johnson, chief executive officer of issues, but the difference this year is that those
researcher Customer Growth Partners. The one- concerns are more intensified,” says Gabriella
two punch of higher energy costs and supply chain Santaniello, founder of retail consultant A-Line
disruptions could restrain discretionary spending Partners. “That pushed retailers to warn shop-
by $56 billion in November and December, he says. pers to start purchasing holiday gifts sooner than
“You have these wild cards. No one really knows expected to avoid any disappointment.”
what will happen.” Toys are selling faster, according to Mattel Inc.,
Heading into Black Friday, on Nov. 26, discounts maker of Barbie and Hot Wheels. Apple Inc. is run- “Last year
on electronics, sporting goods, and appliances are ning a red banner on its website instructing cus- consumers
shallower than last year, according to Adobe Inc., tomers to shop early for the best selection. United knew about
which compared year-over-year changes in online Parcel Service Inc. said an increase in early pur- supply chain
prices from Oct. 1 to Nov. 6. chases has led some experts to predict that 50% issues, but
Despite earlier-than-normal promotions this of holiday shopping could be done by the Monday the difference
year, discounts are weaker across several categories, after Thanksgiving. this year is
Adobe concluded. Those include electronics, where Half of U.S. consumers said they’d started their that those
discounts are at 8.7%, compared with 13.2% at this holiday shopping by the second week of October, concerns
point in 2020; and sporting goods, where price cut- according to a survey by Morning Consult. That are more
ting is only 2.8% this year vs. 11.2% a year ago. And sounds impressive, but it’s similar to 2020, when intensified”
for some categories, such as tools, bargains have dis- Americans worried about delays at shipping
20 appeared entirely. companies such as FedEx Corp. and UPS. “It’s
This show of merchants’ potential pricing power really hard to change human behavior,” Morning
prompted Mastercard SpendingPulse, which ana- Consult’s Tassin says. “We all have our habits.”
lyzes credit card transactions, to call this holiday If retailers fail to boost early shopping, more
season a “seller’s market for retailers.” Yet inflation out-of-stocks later in the season could hurt results.
worries are making Americans more “deal hungry” In early October about half of Americans said they
than usual, according to Claire Tassin, an analyst had already experienced a product being sold out
for researcher Morning Consult. online or in a store, according to another Morning
Retailers are also trying to get consumers to Consult survey. And when faced with an item not
check off their Christmas lists even earlier, when being available, 52% said in a later survey that they
inventories are highest and chains can avoid dis- would skip the purchase completely, not even try-
*FROM APRIL OF ONE YEAR TO MARCH OF THE NEXT. DATA: SOCIETY OF INDIAN AUTOMOBILE MANUFACTURERS
appointing buyers with sellouts or shipping delays ing to find a replacement.
later in the season. Still, Americans are known as the biggest spend-
It’s also a way for retailers to sell more goods ers on the planet. If they live up to that reputation
closer to full price—before the largest discounts tra- despite this year’s hurdles, it would be a much-
ditionally start in mid-November—and when ship- needed boost for the retail sector, especially the
ping costs are lower for merchants. This season battered department stores. Promoting less and
big retailers such as Amazon.com Inc. and Target still hitting sales goals will boost profits. And come
Corp. have gone further, trumpeting Black Friday- January tighter inventories mean fewer items to liq-
like deals in early October. uidate, lifting results again.
That push coincided with Americans waking up “Consumers are flush with cash, and they’re
to the fact that the global supply chain was a mess. not spending as much on travel and dining out—
In October, U.S. online shoppers received 2 bil- they’re spending on goods,” says Brian Yarbrough,
lion out-of-stock messages, according to a study by a retail analyst at Edward Jones. “Retailers are
Adobe. The share of e-commerce page views that probably in the best position coming into this
showed out-of-stock goods was a third higher than holiday season than they’ve been in many years.”
last year and 300% more than 2019. —Jordyn Holman and Brendan Case
Add to that consumers turning on evening news-
THE BOTTOM LINE Retailers are telling their customers to shop
casts and seeing scenes of cargo ships stuck in float- early or avoid missing out on a favored item. That also boosts the
ing traffic jams off West Coast ports. In mid-October chances that consumers will pay higher prices for early purchases.
BUSINESS Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
Flanked by green hills flecked with yellow and favor cheap, compact cars such as those made by
orange wildflowers, General Motors Co.’s 300-acre Hyundai Motor India Ltd. and Maruti Suzuki India
plant in the town of Talegaon in western India Ltd., and the two companies control 60% of the
stands largely idle, as it has for most of the past market. Toyota Motor Corp. has ruled out any
year. Only a moldy layoff notice pinned outside the expansion there, and motorcycle maker Harley-
mothballed factory hints at the difficulties GM now Davidson Inc. gave up last year.
faces in disentangling itself from the country. Four Ford Motor Co. is also winding down its Indian
years after ceasing sales in India and more than a operations. That decision will cost the company
year since its final car for export rolled off the pro- $2 billion in restructuring charges and may entan-
duction line, the carmaker remains mired in legal gle it in lengthy legal fights with local dealerships, India passenger
vehicles*
challenges from the union that represents more which stand to become liable for providing after-
than 1,000 former workers that the company let sales services once the manufacturer leaves. “We
Domestic sales
go from the plant, effectively barring its exit. expect Ford to give some compensation to deal-
GM’s sale of the factory complex to China’s ers,” Vinkesh Gulati, president of the Federation of
Great Wall Motor Co. is also in limbo, despite a Automobile Dealers Associations, told Bloomberg 3m
ing its business, is a stark warning to foreign inves- A further roadblock is a tax regime that imposes
tors. International companies have been trying to levies of as much as 28% on domestic sales of gaso-
reach the growing middle class in this nation of line vehicles. And duties on imported vehicles range
1.4 billion ever since its economic liberalization in from 60% to 100%. International investors also often 0
the 1990s. But they’ve been stymied by high tariffs, stumble while navigating the byzantine regulations 2015-16 2020-21
strict labor rules, and a challenging legal system. implemented by India’s national government and
“India still is a difficult place to manufacture its 36 states and union territories, Rossow says.
Exports
from,” says Richard Rossow, a former deputy direc- Companies with more than 300 employees can-
tor at the U.S.-India Business Council and now not fire anyone without government permission. 1m
Wadhwani chair in U.S.-India policy studies at the Acquiring land without triggering contested claims
Center for Strategic and International Studies in or paying bribes can be a problem, and electricity
Washington. “Most global manufacturers have from the grid is unreliable, he says.
found it hard to tap the market and go in a big, sig- Foreign direct investment in India surged 19% 0
nificant way.” last year. But a large portion went to businesses 2015-16 2020-21
Until August this year, a controversial law owned by Asia’s richest man, Mukesh Ambani, as
allowed the Indian government to retrospec- a handful of well-connected Indian conglomerates
tively levy capital gains tax on foreign businesses like his have increasingly become the gateways to
for the indirect transfer of their Indian assets. It doing business in the country.
took years of fighting in arbitration courts by busi- In the 1990s, GM moved into the newly open
nesses, including oil and gas explorer Cairn Energy Indian economy with great enthusiasm. Its facto-
Plc and Vodafone Group Plc, before Delhi eventu- ries pulled thousands of locals into well-respected
ally rescinded the rule. blue-collar careers in a nation that’s long struggled
Global automakers face a particular strug- to provide formal employment to the millions who
gle to gain traction in the country. Consumers join the labor market each year.
BUSINESS Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
22
Securing a job with GM more than a decade ago International. “The company had paid employees GM’s shuttered
manufacturing plant in
allowed Navnath Shete, a 34-year-old father of two, their wages for half a year, despite no vehicles being Talegaon
to marry above his station in status-conscious India. produced at the site.”
He was able to take on housing loans, enroll his chil- The union argues that the layoffs are illegal and
dren in private schools, and provide financial sup- has filed multiple court challenges to them. In an
port to other relatives. Aug. 25 letter seen by Bloomberg Businessweek and
Now, like hundreds of others who used to work at addressed to Great Wall Motor, the union’s lawyer
the Talegaon plant, Shete has been out of a job and said GM’s staff had been laid off as “a pressure tac-
deeply in debt since the union rejected GM’s termi- tic” and the Chinese company will be required to
nation package. “Everything fell apart,” Shete says. reinstate the workforce if the union wins in court.
“When I lost my job, my wife didn’t want to go back “The company remains very confident of its legal
to the village and do farming. Her parents thought position and has acted in accordance with the law
I had a good job.” and the certified standing orders agreed between Manufacturing as a
share of India’s GDP
GM said its offer was more than seven times the the union and management,” Svigos says.
statutory requirement and provided workers at least Although Great Wall remains interested in the
three years’ salary on average. But only a few hun- deal, India’s curbs on Chinese investments are 17%
dred accepted the deal. In April the company laid off likely to remain in place, even if the boundary dis-
the holdouts without securing the usually required pute eases. “There’s zero trust,” says Tanvi Madan,
government permission by classifying the Covid-19 a senior fellow at the Brookings Institution in
pandemic as a “natural calamity,” which GM said Washington. “This also has implications for the 15
allows such an independent action. economic issues and some of these restrictions.”
“The union was intentionally ignoring GM’s —Chris Kay and Ragini Saxena
DATA: WORLD BANK
to then service other aircraft, other And I think it’s because we’ve been In Virginia we have the largest pig
flights, and we would be told, “Oh, so careful. I’ve been working with my farm—we call it a “p-h-a-r-m”—in the
no, you can’t separate your pilots. teams trying to communicate that and world. At the farm, we genetically
Everybody has to clear customs. to take care of the guests. modified the pigs so their hearts
I want to start focusing on women, and kidneys won’t be rejected when
Everybody has to be tested.” Which
how they can take better care of they’re placed in a human. We con-
meant the whole system gets shut
themselves. We have a cooking stu- tinued doing this during Covid, so
off. Often 50% of our flights would
dio where we bring chefs in. I want we had to protect the pigs. People
have to be rescheduled. So it was a
to talk about vegan cooking, about don’t realize that pigs can get the
very challenging time.
all sorts of healthy, nutritional foods. disease, and you can’t use a kid-
Everybody knows what’s now hap-
But I also want women to start learn- ney from a pig with Covid. At the
pening on the supply chain. It was a
ing how to reconnect, not just with end of September, for the first time,
perfect storm. The pandemic, the
other people but with themselves, to a genetically modified kidney was
work shortages, and the shift from
get inside what inspires them, what transplanted into a human body and
services to goods—all of that resulted
they’re passionate about. wasn’t rejected. It was amazing.
in where we are today. We don’t con-
Covid hits all the organ systems,
trol the ports, and we don’t operate
so the sad thing is there will be a
cargo ships, but we’re part of the sys- ○ MARTINE ROTHBLATT need for a lot more organ trans-
tem. Packages have to be off those Founder of United plants. But I do believe it’s quite
ships and out of warehouses for us to Therapeutics Corp. realistic that during this decade
be able to move them to businesses and Sirius XM there will be a huge expansion of
and consumers. We’re fairly optimis- Holdings Inc. transplantable hearts, lungs, kid-
tic in terms of what we’re seeing. This
neys, and livers due to genetically
new infrastructure bill is going to help It’s been a humbling experience, modified pigs.
unclog those systems. We operate on but I’m happy to say that during the
our aging roads and bridges every pandemic we continued to make
day. So that’s going to help. our medicine, and we now have the ○ Interviews are edited for clarity and length.
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Fortnite Hits T
The Wall E
C
H
N
O 25
L
O
○ China wants kids playing
fewer video games, which is
game. But it never fully launched in China, and on
Nov. 15, Epic shut down Fortnite’s servers in the
G
bad news for the companies
making them
country, concluding a three-year trial from which
it never made a dime.
New video games need government approvals to
premiere and sell copies or virtual items in China,
and the licensing process is increasingly stringent
Y
and often unpredictable. This year has been partic-
Epic Games Inc. spent 2018 preparing Fortnite, ularly difficult—the government hasn’t authorized a
the world’s hottest video game, for a blockbuster new gaming release in more than 100 days.
debut in China, the world’s biggest gaming mar- The freeze comes at a time when Beijing has
ket. When the company released the multiplayer said it wants to more closely scrutinize the impact
shooter a year earlier, it had already brought in video games have on children. In September the
ILLUSTRATION BY DANIEL ZENDER
more than $1 billion worldwide. Chinese tech government capped children’s playing time to three
giant Tencent Holdings Ltd., an Epic investor and hours per week in most cases, encouraging them
Fortnite’s local publisher, sought to replicate the to instead spend more time outdoors and leaving
success in its home country. Things started off on enforcement largely to companies. In one article
an optimistic note, with 10 million Chinese gamers this summer, a state-owned media outlet decried Edited by
pre-registering that summer to get access to the the “spiritual opium” of gaming. Although it later Joshua Brustein
TECHNOLOGY Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
distanced itself from such loaded language, the in the U.S. and Europe, such as the requirement for
government has made clear it wants video games government signoffs and the need for global devel-
to be brought under control. opers to work with local partners that distribute
That sentiment corresponds with President their titles. The government surprised developers
Xi Jinping’s yearlong campaign to rein in large tech- by freezing licenses in 2018 after Xi expressed con-
nology companies, which has both economic and cern that gaming was damaging children’s eyesight.
social objectives. New rules target everything from Fortnite was able to win approval for a trial
education and e-commerce to finance, entertain- launch that year, but Beijing wouldn’t let it offer
ment, and the gig economy, rattling investors and a commercial version in which players could pur-
cowing the country’s billionaires. For companies chase digital items to decorate their in-game ava- Hours gamers spend
playing video games,
eager to tap into China’s enormous population of tars. Tencent’s failure to release the full game, per week
young gamers, prospects that were already shaky along with the broader issues in the Chinese gam-
look worse than ever. ing market, wiped $200 billion from its market China
The damage to Tencent, whose gaming busi- value over a period of about seven months in 2018— 12.4
ness also includes such massive hits as League of reducing its overall market value by almost half. Vietnam
Legends, was evident when it reported earnings Even when regulators resumed approving new 10.2
on Nov. 10. Overall revenue increased 13% for the games, they never came around on Fortnite. Beijing India
quarter, its slowest growth rate since the company hasn’t explained why the title remains on the black- 8.6
went public in 2004. Gaming revenue within China list. It’s not an obvious target for censors, who are Indonesia
grew 5%, compared with 20% growth internation- most concerned with violence and gore. Some 8.5
ally. Executives told investors they thought the dis- industry observers say Tencent alienated officials U.S.
ruptions would be temporary and said they have by going ahead with a test version, arguing that the 7.7
a large stockpile of new titles prepared for release company should’ve waited for the government’s U.K.
once the regulatory uncertainties ease. A company final nod, just to show respect. 7.2
spokesperson declined to comment further. “While an official reason was not given for the Germany
Even before the 2018 crackdown, Tencent made shutdown, this shows that even partnering with 7.1
26
a large investment in Epic and acquired Riot Games China’s largest game company does not guarantee a South Korea
Inc., which makes League of Legends. Now it’s license for a foreign game,” says Daniel Ahmad, an 5.9
scooping up slices of gaming upstarts around the analyst with video game researcher Niko Partners.
world. Chinese gaming companies such as NetEase “The strict regulatory environment and content
Inc. have adjusted in part by looking abroad to set requirements will always take precedence.”
up studios in places from Japan to Canada and Tencent has found other ways to succeed in the
by poaching talent from Activision Blizzard Inc., Chinese gaming market. Its title Honor of Kings has
Ubisoft Entertainment SA, and other powerhouses. been a huge hit since its 2015 release in the country.
Foreign companies “need to focus on their core In 2019 it toned down another online multiplayer
markets outside of China but be ready to take advan- shooter for China, even changing the name from
tage of opportunities in the country when they PUBG Mobile to Peacekeeper Elite to appease reg-
arise,” says Bloomberg Intelligence analyst Matthew ulators. The local version recast the game’s battle
Kanterman. “I think the fact that Tencent and as a military drill rather than a death fight. Blood
NetEase, leaders in the Chinese market, are look- appears green, not red, and defeated players are
ing abroad for the next leg of growth in the gaming depicted as wooden boxes instead of corpses. SCARINGE: EVAN JENKINS/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX. DATA: LIMELIGHT NETWORKS
sector speaks volumes to the outlook domestically.” The Chinese gaming market will be worth
There’s been a cyclical nature to China’s gam- $46 billion in 2021, vs. $43 billion in North America,
ing crackdowns. Officials, who’ve always sought according to research company Newzoo. In 2020
tight control over the internet and media, have regulators issued licenses to 1,400 new games, of
long displayed hostility toward video games in which fewer than a hundred were imported from
particular. The country banned consoles includ- other countries, according to data tracker Statista.
ing Sony Group Corp.’s PlayStation for more That compares with more than 9,000 licenses in
than a decade before allowing them in 2015, and 2017. Beijing’s attempts to discourage young gamers
some parents have felt the need to coerce their are also showing results. In September users under
controller-toting children into training camps, the age of 18 accounted for less than 1% of the time
where psychiatrists have used electroshocks to spent on Tencent’s China properties, down from
treat supposed internet addictions. 6% a year earlier.
While things eased a bit in the mobile era, the gov- Some parents in China applaud the new curbs.
ernment carried on with regulatory barriers unseen Wang Heng, a factory worker in the northern city
TECHNOLOGY Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
of Tianjin, refused to buy his 16-year-old son a to warn fans that “running naked” put them at
smartphone to keep him from gaming. He also heightened risk of Covid-19 and could lead to their
took to cutting off the internet connection while detention by authorities.)
not home so the boy couldn’t sneak in a game Companies are trying to capitalize on video
or two. “I don’t think the limits are too strict,” games’ cultural sway, peddling gaming-adjacent
Wang says. “I don’t think games are necessary content from music to streaming to animé, which
for kids. My generation grew up without all those are typically subject to less government control.
online games, and we had a happy childhood and Tencent sees its future as reliant on securing real
teenage life.” estate in the so-called metaverse, the immersive
At the same time, the government can’t sim- online landscape that many technology companies
ply tell young people what kinds of entertainment increasingly see as the next phase of digital inter-
to like. On Nov. 6 millions of Chinese fans went action. Tencent has registered metaverse-related
online to watch the League of Legends world cham- trademarks in China and is hiring developers to
pionship, held 4,000 miles away in Reykjavik, create futuristic open-world games. When they
Iceland. When Shanghai-based Edwards Gaming faced investors on Nov. 10, company executives
won, the team’s supporters reacted like victori- said they were confident Beijing wouldn’t stand
ous sports fans the world over, spilling out of bars in the way. —Zheping Huang, with Karoline Kan
and through college campuses, cheering, hoist-
THE BOTTOM LINE China’s government doesn’t share the
ing the team flag, and even streaking. (Afterward, enthusiasm for video games that’s widespread among its young
the Communist Party Youth League felt compelled people, cutting into the world’s largest gaming market.
Rivian’s Success 27
Rivian Automotive Inc.’s blockbuster initial public us to go really fast in building out the commercial
offering on Nov. 9—the biggest since Facebook’s side of our business, with our first customer really
in 2012—was a sign of how far the electric vehicle being a flagship with Amazon and their initial
industry has come. It also represented the ultimate order” of vans.
confirmation of Tesla Inc.’s success. Alternative energy experts agree. “The deal
Tesla, the sole trillion-dollar automaker, has reinforces our view that delivery vans—and fleets,
had sales growth of 270 times since its 2010 IPO. more broadly—can switch to electric much more
Now another startup from California, where cli- quickly than passenger vehicles, and that large cor-
mate change is a constant calamity, is already porate orders are a way to do so,” BloombergNEF
worth $130 billion—more than Ford Motor Co. or wrote in a Sept. 23, 2019, assessment. The market
General Motors Co.—even though it’s delivered for electric delivery vans will “reach almost 2 mil-
fewer than 50 zero-emission, battery-powered lion vehicles annually by 2030 in the U.S., China
pickup trucks during its 11-year life. Irvine-based and Europe,” BNEF predicted.
Rivian says the market for electric vehicles will be In the meantime, Rivian is poised to benefit from
at least $1 trillion by 2025 and exponentially larger delivering the first electric trucks in the U.S. Pickups
within a decade. accounted for 19% of total vehicle sales in the coun- ○ Scaringe
Amazon.com Inc., which in 2019 took a 20% try during the first six months of 2021 and exceeded
stake in the company, became the biggest booster 1.5 million with the top three sellers. Ford’s F-Series
when founder and Chief Executive Officer Jeff alone contributed 5% to total U.S. car sales, accord-
Bezos said he ordered 100,000 Rivian electric ing to data compiled by Bloomberg. The 2022 debut
delivery vans for its logistics business. “We built of the all-electric F-150 Lightning shows just how
a platform that is incredibly scalable,” Rivian CEO much confidence there is for a zeroemission version
R.J. Scaringe said this month in an interview with of America’s bestselling truck the past 40 years. Ford
Bloomberg Television. The “platform has allowed is also a backer of Rivian.
TECHNOLOGY Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
An R1T electric
pickup truck at Rivian’s
plant in Normal, Ill.
For all the skepticism Tesla has overcome—as the highest-quality data,” she said in a February
recently as 2018 it had more short sellers betting it interview. “The highest number of high-quality
would fail than 499 companies in the S&P 500—CEO real-world miles driven—data that feeds artificial
Elon Musk has doubts about Rivian. “I hope they’re intelligence and trains the machine—puts Tesla in
28 able to achieve high production & breakeven cash the pole position to be the autonomous taxi network
flow,” Musk wrote on Twitter a day after the Rivian in the United States.”
IPO. “That is the true test” because “there have Tesla’s data advantage will endure “because its
been hundreds of automotive startups, both elec- vehicle base already is closing in on two million
tric & combustion, but Tesla is only American car- vehicles and is growing,” Wood said in an email
maker to reach high volume production & positive after the Rivian IPO. “Rivian has just dozens of vehi-
cash flow in past 100 years,” he tweeted. cles on the road today and will have to ramp up
Musk should know. Rivian had no revenue production dramatically to collect enough data and
before June, whereas Tesla reported sales of create fully autonomous driving software.”
$15 million and $112 million, respectively, in the Tesla remains the market leader for other rea-
two years before its IPO, according to Bloomberg sons as well. Hertz Global Holdings Inc. in October
data. Rivian spent more than $400 million and ordered 100,000 Tesla Model 3s, the single-largest
$1 billion on research and development and admin- EV purchase, at $4.2 billion, and days later said it
istrative expenses, or 17 times more than Tesla’s reached an exclusive deal with Uber Technologies
$16 million and $77 million during comparable Inc. to rent as many as 50,000 Teslas to ride-sharing
pre-IPO periods. drivers by 2021. “Our announcement should
Before Tesla turned a profit in 2020, doubters give [automakers] comfort that this is becoming
routinely derided Musk for burning through cash. more mainstream and confidence that consumer
Rivian makes Musk look like a miser. Its cash drain demand will be there,” interim Hertz CEO Mark
included $353 million and $848 million consumed Fields told Bloomberg TV.
by operations in the two years before the IPO, as Rivian is now the fourth-most-valuable carmaker
well as capital spending of $197 million and $914 mil- in the world. And the market value of the top 10
lion. Musk lost just one-nineteenth that amount in automakers is more than two-thirds electric—a real-
the comparable periods, according to Bloomberg ity considered improbable, if not impossible, just
data. Today, investors chasing the next Tesla are a year ago. That’s a great achievement for Rivian.
much more forgiving about such metrics. It should thank Elon Musk. —Matthew A. Winkler,
Cathie Wood, CEO of Ark Investment with Shin Pei and Jennifer Liu
RIVIAN AUTOMOTIVE
Crypto
F
I
N
A
N 31
C
Teaching Digital E
Currencies
Not to Guzzle
over the same period, to almost as much as the
○ Alternatives to “mining” augur
entire country of Argentina uses.
power-sipping coins That power consumption spurred Tesla Inc.
Chief Executive Officer Elon Musk to ban car pur-
chases with Bitcoin, and China prohibited mining
In the past five years, the price of a Bitcoin has in part because of the burden it placed on its power
rocketed from about $1,000 to more than $60,000. grid. “If Bitcoin continues to be seen as carbon-
That’s great news for newly minted millionaires intensive and energy-hungry, it’s a massive risk,”
and billionaires, but it’s a bummer for the environ- says Kirsteen Harrison, a sustainability strategist
ment. The electricity needed to “mine” the coins— at Zumo Financial Services, a cryptocurrency wal-
Edited by
effectively deploying vast fleets of computers to let company in the U.K. Rebecca Penty
solve complex problems—has increased tenfold In response, some miners have located their and David Rocks
FINANCE Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
of clean energy will be built in the coming years, Miners try to be the first to Validators wanting to vet
solve a complex puzzle. transactions put up their own
and that should go toward cleaning up exist- crypto as collateral.
ing energy demands,” says Ben Hertz-Shargel of
energy consultant Wood Mackenzie.
The miner with the most These parties enter a lottery to
That’s spurred a growing number of entre- computing power—typically process a batch of transactions
preneurs to explore other methods of ensuring using the most electricity—has in exchange for new coins, and
the best chance of winning. those who risk more have a
the security of digital coins. Most early crypto- better chance of winning.
currencies are based on what’s called proof of
work, which is all those calculations the min-
ers’ computers do. The goal is to be the first to The winner verifies the Others check the validator’s
transaction and is rewarded work, and if they discover any
guess the answer to a complex problem, which with new coins. fraud the validator loses the
gives the miner the right to record transactions collateral.
transactions and deciding which ones will be pro- called super representatives, to validate transac-
cessed first. There’s no need for special equipment; tions in six-hour shifts and to receive new coins
the competition isn’t about quickly solving a prob- for their work. And Filecoin uses a related tech- 10
lem, but rather how much each party is willing to nology in which parties compete to provide band-
put up as collateral. Advocates say the system is width or digital storage space to the network in
secure because those who approve transactions exchange for new coins. 5
that turn out to be fraudulent lose the coins they’ve Critics say these alternatives may be less secure
staked. Multiple validators typically vet each batch than proof of work. The computer code under-
of transactions, but the bulk of new coins go to just pinning proof of stake is so complex that there’s 0
one party, chosen in a sort of lottery in which those a greater risk of undetected software bugs, says 7/18/10 11/14/21
who stake more coins get more tickets. Chris Bendiksen, a researcher at digital-asset
Ethereum, the blockchain that underpins the investment manager CoinShares. And such sys-
world’s No. 2 cryptocurrency, next year plans to tems are more susceptible to censorship, because
DATA: CAMBRIDGE CENTRE FOR ALTERNATIVE FINANCE
migrate from proof of work to proof of stake, say- once an entity or group acquires more than
ing the move will reduce its energy use by 99.95%. half the tokens, “there’s no way for them to be
A test version called the Beacon Chain has been run- unseated as the controlling entity,” he says. “Bugs
ning alongside Ethereum’s established proof of work and vulnerabilities in system-critical infrastructure
system for almost a year, with more than 250,000 like monetary systems can be catastrophic.”
validators staking some $38 billion worth of Ether, Developers of proof of stake systems counter that
according to tracker Etherscan. The currency’s orig- in proof of work a small number of miners typically
inal network “is 6-year-old technology, not designed control most of the network, opening the door to
for the usage level and security needs of 2021—and manipulation. With proof of stake, advocates say,
FINANCE Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
the only way for users to increase their influence for cryptocurrency. Proof of work “doesn’t make
is by increasing their stake, making it harder— sense for most chains,” he says. “And Ethereum
and more costly—to game the system. Tim Beiko, is a great proving ground for both smaller and
a computer scientist who coordinates Ethereum larger chains to follow.” —Olga Kharif, Will Mathis,
developers, says the years his network spent hon- and Josh Saul
ing its proof of stake technology and the extensive
THE BOTTOM LINE Ethereum is adopting proof of stake, a move
testing it’s undergone demonstrate that these less it says will reduce energy use by 99.95%. In a test version, more
energy-intensive alternatives can chart a new future than 250,000 parties have put up some $38 billion in coins.
There’s a Blockchain
App for That ○ The technology is being used for digital
health passports, banking, and gaming
take out loans or lend their coins to others. and Guatemala send money internationally for free.
Users have pumped more than $110 billion into Underpinning the service is startup Paxos Trust Co.
these products, up from about $21 billion a year Its so-called stablecoin runs on the Ethereum block-
ago, according to tracker DeFi Pulse. That said, par- chain and has a value that doesn’t change much
ticipating in DeFi carries many risks: There is no from day to day. Blockchain infrastructure is also
bank to hold your hand, there’s no Federal Deposit expected to make settlement of commercial pay-
Insurance Corp. insurance, and scammers abound. ments and transactions faster and cheaper. While
That could change as federal regulators tighten over- conventional settlement of stock sales takes two
sight to weed out money laundering and fraud. days, Paxos earlier this year tested same-day set-
Even large financial institutions are starting to eye tlements of stock sales with Credit Suisse, Instinet,
DeFi. Société Générale SA is planning to facilitate a and Bank of America. The company hopes to com-
loan of about $28.6 million via such a service early mercialize the capability next year, says CEO Charles
next year. “Today, if you take the 20 largest clients of Cascarilla. “We are on the cusp of that happening,”
the bank, there’s not one single one of them that’s he says. “The next use of blockchain is less about
not looking seriously into these solutions,” says crypto as an asset class but crypto being used for
Jean-Marc Stenger, chief executive officer of Société real-life services.” —Olga Kharif
Générale Forge, a blockchain-focused subsidiary,
THE BOTTOM LINE The market for blockchain technology and
referring to blockchain solutions for capital markets. services is booming as developers drawn to its reliability and
Discussions are now centered on how big DeFi automation benefits take it beyond Bitcoin into myriad applications.
will get and how quickly that’ll happen, Stenger says.
Gaming. A frustration among gamers is that they
can’t take their swords or characters from one game
to another, and sometimes they can’t easily sell the
34
weapons they win or buy. Blockchain gives players
the chance to profit from their skills. Axie Infinity is
a game played by more than 1 million daily active
Crypto’s
users—most of whom pay to play. They earn digital
coins by defeating rivals and breed cute monsters
as nonfungible tokens, or NFTs, assets tracked via
Regulation Fix:
blockchain that they can sell on crypto exchanges.
Some people in developing countries say such play-
to-earn games have already become their main
We’ll Handle It
source of income. “This is a completely different
engagement model that’s closer to work,” says Yat ○ Execs say traditional agencies don’t have the
Sui, executive chairman of Animoca Brands, a Hong tools or expertise to oversee the sector alone
Kong maker of and investor in blockchain games.
Traditional video game companies are entering
the arena. Ubisoft Entertainment SA, the French The cryptocurrency industry suddenly found itself
maker of titles such as Assassin’s Creed, has invested in the crosshairs of a host of U.S. state and federal
in Animoca, and Ubisoft CEO Yves Guillemot says regulators this fall, facing millions of dollars of
he wants the company to be a key player in block- fines, threats of lawsuits, and warnings of rules to
chain gaming, which he sees as a growth driver for come. Crypto executives say the abrupt—and some-
the industry. Still, with the risk of scams and reg- times overlapping—spate of enforcement could chill
ulatory uncertainty looming, some in the gaming innovation, especially in areas where it’s not clear
sector are taking a cautious approach. Valve Corp., which laws apply. Their solution? Let the industry
which runs the popular Steam game store, recently help regulate itself.
prohibited developers on its platform from publish- Major exchanges including Coinbase and Gemini
ing blockchain-based games that issue or allow the and prominent investors such as Andreessen
exchange of cryptocurrencies or NFTs. Horowitz have floated the idea of a crypto self-
Cross-border and commercial payments. People regulatory organization (SRO), arguing it could be
sending funds from the U.S. to relatives overseas better suited to oversee the new and complex indus-
have grown accustomed to giving huge cuts to inter- try on some issues than traditional agencies, which
mediaries such as Western Union Co. That’s chang- have struggled to apply decades-old rules to the
ing. In October, Facebook parent Meta Platforms Inc. new market. Supporters say an SRO could be more
started a pilot program to let consumers in the U.S. agile in deciding on rules around new products,
FINANCE Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
4
Xi’s Great Moderation
E The Chinese leader wants to downsize the real estate
O
N
O
36
M
I
C China’s economy is slowing to levels not seen
since 1990. But that’s a price President Xi Jinping
seems willing to pay to reduce its dependence on
the property sector.
economist at Macquarie Group Ltd., says, “China’s
property slowdown is a major headwind to the
global economy, because it is likely to be the big-
gest headwind to the Chinese economy next year.”
PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY 731; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES (2). *MEASURED AS COMBINED FLOOR AREA
ment squeeze looks set to linger into next year stimulate the economy as it did during past down-
consultant Plenum. “Xi is personally involved in measures designed to engineer a gradual adjustment Year-over-year
change in Chinese
real estate policies, so ministries don’t dare to ease may reinforce each other, with potentially disastrous construction starts*
policies without his approval.” consequences. Chinese households tend to avoid
Sporadic coronavirus outbreaks are another property purchases when prices are falling, which
drag on growth, spooking consumers and bring- could lead to steeper-than-expected declines. 50%
ing back stringent lockdown measures that force If Xi is serious about rebalancing the economy
businesses to shut. Still, the biggest question hang- away from real estate, he may be prepared to toler-
ing over China’s economy is the fate of the prop- ate a “multiyear slowdown” in construction activ-
erty sector, because of its huge scale—more than ity, and that would certainly take a toll on overall 0
900 million square meters of apartment floor economic growth, says Logan Wright of Rhodium
area are added each year, official data show. That Group LLC. “A lot still depends on what Beijing does
investment, plus the output of related sectors such in the next couple of months.” —Tom Hancock and
as steel and cement production, accounts for as Enda Curran, with Cynthia Li and Ailing Tan -50
World War II. By a metric that compares overall under 40,” she says, adding that Russians reach Q3 2001 Q3 2021
deaths to historical trends, only the U.S. and Brazil maximum productivity between 30 and 40, a seg-
look worse. Officials say most of the victims are of ment of the workforce that is slated to shrink 25%
pension age, but employers say they’re still being by 2030. —Aine Quinn and Evgenia Pismennaya,
affected. One of Russia’s biggest retailers, X5 Retail with Zoya Shilova
Group, said last month that “labor supply contin-
THE BOTTOM LINE Border closures and a Covid-induced spike
ues to be influenced by high mortality rates among in deaths are forcing businesses to raise wages to attract workers.
38 the Russian population.” Some are resorting to mechanization as well.
The virus is a setback to President Vladimir
Putin’s efforts to halt the country’s rapid popula-
tion decline. A legacy of the economic turmoil of
the 1990s, it’s been abetted by lifestyle factors—
too much drinking and smoking and too little
exercise—and Russia’s inadequate health-care sys-
Deciphering
tem. “There was a shortage of workers in some Lael Brainard
sectors even before the pandemic,” says Natalya
Zubarevich, head of regional studies at Moscow’s
Independent Institute for Social Policy. “Putin’s ○ Her views on inflation are under scrutiny now
goals have been pushed back.” that she’s a contender for the Fed’s top job
the Covid crisis has fueled demand for unskilled prices don’t have much to go on, though.
labor, pushing up pay in parts of the gig economy. For starters, neither Brainard, who joined
“There’s a real war on for taxi drivers,” he says. the Fed board in 2014, nor Chair Jerome Powell,
SuperJob also recorded an almost 900% increase who’s been on the panel since 2012, have ever had
in vacancies for delivery couriers this year. to contend with the prospect of sustained infla-
Builder Samolet Group says it’s raised wages tion well exceeding the central bank’s 2% target.
and improved safety and other working condi- And while Powell has repeatedly addressed ques-
tions to address labor shortages that left almost tions about his policy choices and his approach
half of its jobs unfilled at the beginning of the toward economic risks in post-Fed-meeting press
year. “For me it was unprecedented,” says Andrey briefings and congressional hearings, Brainard
ECONOMICS Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
comments less frequently, in occasional speeches. after an analysis highlighted how the Fed in the
Most economists still expect Powell, who past had started tightening even while unemploy-
was elevated to the chairmanship in 2018, to get ment rates among people of color remained ele-
another term. An announcement from the White vated relative to those of Whites.
House is expected before Thanksgiving. Unlike some Fed officials, Brainard hasn’t con-
Brainard’s champions, who include former cluded that labor supply has been permanently
Federal Deposit Insurance Corp. Chair Sheila reduced by the pandemic—something that, if
Bair, Nobel laureate Joseph Stiglitz, and MIT true, could justify raising rates before pre-Covid
Professor Simon Johnson, tout her record on employment metrics are achieved. “I see no rea-
financial regulation—where she has clear differ- son employment should not reach levels as strong
ences with Powell. She’s dissented frequently on or stronger than before the pandemic,” Brainard
changes to bank rules that Powell supported in the said on Sept. 27.
name of making regulations more efficient. “Lael By contrast, at a Fed policy meeting in July, sev-
is as expert on regulation as the Fed’s powerful eral minutes showed that policymakers thought
staff. She has mastered its complexity,” Bair wrote “the pandemic might have caused longer-lasting
in an email. “These actions were billed as ‘sim- changes in the labor market.” As time passes,
plification,’ but in fact, cumulatively, significantly Brainard’s position looks increasingly bold,
weakened the safeguards put in place” with the because measures such as the labor force par-
Dodd-Frank financial reforms, she said. ticipation rate aren’t budging, despite strong
For Fed watchers, inflation is top of mind after job gains.
a Labor Department report showed consumer Brainard’s exposure to overseas economies—
prices surged 6.2% in October from a year before, she was Treasury’s top international official during
the most since 1990. Powell recently said he won’t the Obama administration—offered insight into
entertain interest-rate increases until the labor how damaging escalating prices can be to people
market heals further, even though inflation could in lower-income households, who cannot afford
run hot for months. “There is still ground to cover any erosion in their purchasing power. “Inflation 39
to reach maximum employment,” he told report- and price stability to her are about the mandate,
ers on Nov. 3. “The inflation that we’re seeing is but also about how far people’s paychecks are
really not due to a tight labor market.” going,” says Navtej Dhillon, who worked with
Some on Wall Street have speculated that Brainard at the Treasury.
Brainard, a Democratic appointee, would be an Brainard sees inflation as a significant risk, but ○ Brainard
even more dovish Fed chief. But there’s no direct she’s also called for patience while the pandemic
evidence to support that. Besides, history shows supply disruptions play out. That’s essentially the
that Democrats on the Fed board of governors can position of the Federal Open Market Committee,
sometimes be more hawkish than Republicans, as where she occupies one of 12 seats. The FOMC
was the case with Laurence Meyer, who served has started to scale back its bond- buying pro-
with the Republican Fed chief Alan Greenspan. gram but isn’t planning to raise rates anytime
Paul Volcker, the Democratic chair who whipped soon. Brainard has frequently noted the risk that
inflation in the 1980s, was the most famous hawk the U.S. economy could revert back to low infla-
in the Fed’s annals. tion once the bottleneck issues are resolved. This
What is known is that Brainard, 59, has been a suggests her timeline for overshooting 2% inflation
big believer in the new policy framework, which might be a bit longer.
was designed to overcome the Fed’s two main “Putting the modifiers of ‘inclusive’ and ‘broad-
problems: that it was constantly undershooting based’ on employment, that upped the stakes,
the 2% inflation target and misjudging the level of because you are not going to get that if you don’t
maximum employment. The Harvard Ph.D. econo- allow trade-offs with inflation now,” says Claudia
mist co-wrote the language describing the employ- Sahm, a former Fed staff member who’s a senior
ment goal that came out of the strategy overhaul fellow at the Jain Family Institute. It’s up to those
unveiled in August 2020. Maximum employment is who drafted the new language to explain how
now defined as a “broad-based and inclusive goal,” they’ll balance their employment goal with infla-
and Fed policy will no longer pre-judge the level tion, Sahm says. “They don’t have a lot of time.”
of maximum employment. The shift marks a criti- —Craig Torres
cal embrace of broader readings of the labor mar-
THE BOTTOM LINE While some on Wall Street believe that Fed
ket and a move away from models that rely mainly governor Lael Brainard, a Democrat, would be a more dovish chair
on the single national unemployment rate. It came than Powell, there isn’t much to substantiate that assumption.
5
P
O
L
I ○ Poland’s and Hungary’s revolt But the awkward truth is that the populist
T
leaderships of Jaroslaw Kaczynski in Warsaw and
against the EU is a problem Viktor Orban in Budapest have been using European
partly of the bloc’s own making largesse for years to tighten their grip on power and
undermine EU unity. Put bluntly, Brussels has bank-
40
I Governments across Europe are showcasing their
plans to reinvigorate economies after the pan-
demic, and nowhere more so than in Poland.
rolled an insurrection it’s now trying to put down by
making future cash transfers contingent on adher-
ence to its model of democracy.
Hundreds of billions of euros of EU cash has
C Officials of the ruling Law & Justice party have vis- gone toward everything including new hospitals
ited dozens of towns to hand out replica checks to and schools, highways, and high-speed rail links,
local leaders displaying how much is headed their funds that are given to poorer regions to catch up
way. The slogan on billboards and buses declared with richer ones. It’s also been channeled into social
fund unless Poland rolls back changes to its justice line without risking a Brexit-style fracture. The
system that culminated with a decision to end the U.K.’s departure served as a warning about how
primacy of European law in the country. Poland is messy—and damaging—a divorce might be and also
also being fined €1 million a day by the EU Court emboldened the narrative in Hungary and Poland
of Justice until it curtails the level of scrutiny that that the EU is a diminished power. The mood in
politicians have over judges. Hungary faces simi- Germany, the largest contributor to European
lar actions over its erosion of what the EU says are coffers, is that the EU mustn’t back down, though
the bloc’s core values and its noncompliance with outgoing Chancellor Angela Merkel has expressed
an EU court ruling. the need to tread carefully. The Netherlands and
Both governments are outraged. Poland has other countries want a tougher line on the spend-
protested that while the EU is making threats, the ing of rogue members.
Edited by
Amanda Kolson Hurley
country is protecting Europe’s eastern flank from The trouble for the EU is that it’s not set up
and Rebecca Greenfield migrants coming illegally through Belarus. to play the bad guy, says Marek Prawda, the
POLITICS Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
veteran Polish diplomat who served as head of the There’s also less competition. From 2016 to
European Commission’s representation in Poland 2020, the proportion of EU funds spent on proj-
from 2016 to March of this year. Most measures ects for which there was only a single bidder
require consensus among member states, mean- was highest in Poland and the Czech Republic at
ing Hungary can veto action against Poland and 51%, followed by Hungary at 40%, according to
vice versa. The two are also legally challenging the European Commission data.
EU’s plan to attach strings to the pandemic recov- One prominent beneficiary is Lorinc Meszaros,
ery funds, with the EU’s advocate general in the a childhood friend of Orban’s and Hungary’s rich-
case due to issue a nonbinding opinion on Dec. 2. est man. Toth calculates that Meszaros’s companies
“All of the EU’s punishment mechanisms are have won $2.5 billion in EU funding since 2011, either
only created so that they don’t have to be used,” alone or as part of a consortium, most of it while
Prawda says. “They should be visible and hang on he was still a ruling party mayor of Orban’s home-
the wall like the sword of Damocles, but the EU is town. In 2017 more than 20% of the EU funding that
completely hopeless if a member state isn’t afraid Hungary received went to contracts won by bidders
of these tools of torture.” that included a Meszaros company, Toth says. A year
There’s also little EU officialdom can do if the later, Meszaros’s media empire backed Orban’s
bloc’s funds are used to sustain a network of polit- reelection bid, helping him win a fourth term, in
ical patronage. In October, European Parliament part by disparaging the EU as a waning power.
lawmakers called on Hungary and Poland to Meszaros Group, in a written reply to questions
address rule-of-law concerns and corruption from Bloomberg News, said there’s “no criteria
before accessing billions of euros in a recently set relating to political connections” in the disburse-
up Covid recovery fund. ment of EU funding and allegations that the com-
Poland’s Deputy Justice Minister Sebastian panies may have benefited from their owner’s link
Kaleta says the country is entitled to those funds, to Orban were “meaningless and irrelevant.”
because it contributes to the EU budget and makes In Poland, ministers who’ve opened new roads
its market available to Western companies. The and bridges boast that the spending is a result of 41
Hungarian government says any allegations of their prudent budgeting rather than EU transfers.
impropriety should be handled with “seriousness.” But the EU financing system has effectively enabled
“Anyone aware of breaches of law (be it national or the government to promote party interests, says
EU law) or corruption cases should refer them to Piotr Buras, director of the Warsaw bureau of
the competent authorities,” Orban’s office said in
a response to questions for this article.
It’s hard to overstate the symbolism of the EU’s The EU’s Givers and Takers
expansion into the former Eastern bloc in 2004. EU member states by net contribution, 2020
These were countries that spent four decades as
Net receivers Net contributors
communist satellite states of the Soviet Union and
saw a series of uprisings in the name of democ- -€10b -5 0 5 10
racy brutally crushed. Kaczynski, 72, was part of
the Solidarity movement that toppled the regime
in 1989, and Orban, 58, made his name as a young
pro-European, Western-leaning anti-communist.
The EU has plowed almost €200 billion into
Poland alone since it joined the bloc and an addi-
tional €68 billion into Hungary, which is a quar- Poland
Roe’s Last
42 to be a ball of anxiety, but it’s definitely stressful,”
says Rikelman, 49, from her home in Brookline,
Mass. “I will do everything I humanly can.”
The case centers on a Mississippi law passed in
mately reaffirmed Roe and said states could not pass Alaska’s Supreme Court. There she spent her free
laws that place an “undue burden” on women seek- time rafting and ice-climbing—“the kinds of things
ing abortions before the fetus is viable, which the you do in your 20s that you might not try again,”
majority suggested was around 23 or 24 weeks at she says. In the late 1990s, Rikelman moved to New
the time. The lawyer who argued that case, Kathryn York to join the Center for Reproductive Rights on
Kolbert, says she has little hope that Rikelman can a fellowship for young lawyers.
do much to keep Roe intact. Abortion advocates say At the center, Rikelman showed early promise
the court signaled Roe was under threat when, in and was allowed to question a witness at her first
September, it allowed Texas to put in place a six- trial, a high-stakes case challenging a Florida law
week abortion ban that deputizes private citizens that required doctors to notify a parent or guard-
as enforcers. (The justices are now considering an ian when minors sought abortions. “She could think
appeal to stop the law.) quickly,” says Bebe Anderson, one of Rikelman’s
“Every good argument that we’ve had over the mentors at the center. “She seemed to have a real 43
past 40 years has been made,” says Kolbert, author good sense of how to get at the information, how
of Controlling Women, a book about reproductive to draw it out, what information was important.”
rights. “The only number that matters is five, and Rikelman left the center at the end of her fellow-
good arguments aren’t going to get us to five votes ship to work for a law firm back in Alaska and
with this court.” later as in-house counsel at NBCUniversal Media
Some legal experts say Rikelman’s path lies with LLC. She returned to the center in 2011 to run its
Kavanaugh. In 1991, Kavanaugh clerked for Walter litigation department, where she’s gained a rep-
Stapleton, a federal appeals judge who heard Casey utation for deep knowledge of abortion case law.
and proposed a legal compromise that the Supreme “She’s good—she knows what she’s doing,” says
Court ultimately adopted. “That was obviously long Carol Tobias, president of the National Right to Life
before Justice Kavanaugh became more attached Committee, a prominent antiabortion group that
to the conservative legal movement,” says Melissa wants Roe overturned.
Murray, a law professor at New York University. Her preparation for the December arguments
“But it suggests maybe there is some flexibility.” has been labor-intensive. She recently traveled to
Rikelman declined to comment on specific jus- Washington for a series of practice sessions with
tices, but in legal briefs her team has stressed the seasoned litigators at two major law firms, Hogan
importance of respecting established rights, includ- Lovells and Kellogg Hansen.
PHOTOGRAPH BY KAYANA SZYMCZAK FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK
ing ones that might appeal to the conservative jus- Regardless of how she performs in December,
tices, such as gun ownership. It would be unusual, Americans are facing the real possibility of a world
though not completely unheard of, for the court to without Roe. Texas and other states have already
overturn its own precedent. found ways to make abortion inaccessible for mil-
Rikelman was born in Kyiv in the 1970s to Jewish lions of women. But Rikelman is trying to stay
parents who faced persistent antisemitism. When positive. “Sometimes when things get very bad,
she was 6, they immigrated to the U.S. with only a more people pay attention,” she says. “I have to
few possessions, settling in Brookline. Because of stay optimistic, because I gotta keep doing this.”
her background, she says, “I was definitely inter- —David Yaffe-Bellany
ested pretty early on in college in justice issues—
THE BOTTOM LINE The lawyer preparing to defend abortion
what makes things fair.” rights in front of the U.S. Supreme Court is banking on the power
After attending Harvard Law School, Rikelman of precedent to save Roe v. Wade.
○ Inflation Special Report
Edited by Pat Regnier
44
In Portland in December 1973, shortly before Oregon adopted a system of dispensing gas by license plate numbers
Ronald Reagan warned it was as “violent savings and government checks to splurge
as a mugger.” Milton Friedman dubbed it on goods, frayed global supply chains,
a “hidden tax.” But for most of 2021, most labor shortages fanning wage increases,
central bankers and economists called and soaring energy costs have all worked
inflation “transitory.” to push up price indexes.
Their bet was that while prices would That leaves Federal Reserve Chair
probably jump as the economy escaped Jerome Powell slowing stimulus faster
the coronavirus-enforced recession and than once predicted (although not as
lockdown, the pressure would soon ease. quickly as some want) and President
That may still happen. But for now, Joe Biden making a reversal of the trend
inflation is accelerating. Prices paid by a “top priority.”
U.S. NATIONAL ARCHIVES. BIDEN: CBS/GETTY IMAGES
Americans jumped 6.2% in October from a Much will depend on the behavior of
year earlier, the most since 1990. consumers and companies. If they still
Behind the surge and forecasting failure agree inflation will slow they might not
is a tremendous success: the seek compensation via price hikes
unprecedented combination of easy fiscal or higher pay. But if they decide the only
and monetary policies that prevented the way is up, they may be the ones
pandemic from inducing a global propelling prices even higher in 2022.
depression. The tapping of pent-up —Simon Kennedy
SPECIAL REPORT Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
○ There’s not a lot Joe Biden can Research found, including a sizable are largely unrelated, says Gallup Senior
do to tame inflation, but voters will share of Democrats (43%) and majorities Editor Jeff Jones, probably because infla-
blame him regardless of independents (54%) and Republicans tion has been too low to exert a mea-
(66%). That frustration is increasingly surable drag and also because partisan
being directed at Biden. “Voters hold affiliation has become a much bigger fac-
If President Joe Biden had scripted the accountable the person in the White tor in how people evaluate presidents.
first six months of his presidency, he House,” says Bob Shrum, a Democratic But Biden isn’t getting much help
could hardly have improved upon these strategist who worked for Jimmy Carter, from members of his own party. Former
recent headlines: a lighting-quick recov- a president kneecapped by high inflation. Treasury Secretary Larry Summers, a
ery from the Covid-19 recession, strong Biden’s second problem is that, vocal critic of Biden’s $1.9 trillion Covid
wage growth, falling poverty levels, unlike many other issues troubling vot- rescue plan, has amplified his warnings
record stock markets, and U.S. house- ers, he can’t plausibly pin the blame about government spending. “Excessive
holds flush with cash. Unfortunately for rising prices on his predecessor, inflation and a sense that it was not
for Biden, all these achievements are Donald Trump, and Republicans—even if being controlled helped elect Richard
being overshadowed by a more ominous Trump’s pandemic rescue packages con- Nixon and Ronald Reagan, and risks
development: rising inflation. tributed to them. While voters give Biden bringing Donald Trump back to power,”
In October, U.S. inflation spiked to a relatively high marks for his handling of Summers, who is a Bloomberg contrib-
three-decade high, with prices climbing Covid, his numbers on the economy have utor, warned on Nov. 15. Democrats in 45
on everything from cars to gasoline to worsened. “It’s very hard to spin infla- Congress are also pressuring the White
groceries. Voters have noticed—and sent tion,” says Al From, who was a White House, with West Virginia Senator Joe
Biden’s approval ratings falling further, House adviser on inflation under Carter, Manchin, a pivotal vote, echoing GOP
deepening a slump that began this sum- during whose tenure inflation peaked at complaints about an “inflation tax.”
mer. Only 39% approve of his handling 14.7% in early 1980. “People feel it every Biden’s options for fighting back are
of the economy and about half blame time they fill up their gas tank.” limited. He can scale back tariffs to try
him for rising inflation in a Nov. 10 The politics of inflation are a problem to ease prices, raise immigration levels
Washington Post-ABC News poll. Turning none of Biden’s recent predecessors had to help meet worker shortages, take a
that around will be difficult. “There’s to face. From Harry Truman’s presidency stronger hand in attempting to untan-
not much a White House can do to fight through Carter’s, periods of high infla- gle backups at U.S. ports, and possibly
inflation,” says Jason Furman, who tion weighed on approval ratings. Since tap the Strategic Petroleum Reserve
headed the Obama-era White House then, however, inflation and job approval to try to curb gasoline prices, which
Council of Economic Advisers.
For Biden, the political problem is
twofold. First, inflation has the perni-
cious effect of eating into paychecks,
thereby undermining all the positive
gains in the economy. In October, aver-
age hourly earnings grew a robust 4.9%
from a year earlier—but consumer
prices jumped 6.2%, according to the
U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, eclips-
ing those wage gains. In private focus
groups and polling, Democratic strate-
gists are encountering a chorus of frus-
tration with higher prices. More than half
of respondents (54%) said inflation is a
“major crisis” facing the country, a new
Biden in 1974, during his first term as a senator from Delaware
poll by the Democrat-aligned Navigator
SPECIAL REPORT Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
have almost doubled in the last year. the White House has begun to adjust. House. “People have to understand that
The administration has also urged for- After months of touting the size of his you’re really fighting for them.”
eign producers to increase oil output by multitrillion-dollar infrastructure and Even so, the record of presidents
400,000 barrels a day, so far unsuccess- social spending bills, Biden is now try- who’ve tried to overcome rising prices
fully. But all of these moves would have ing to recast them as inflation fighters. is discouraging. Gerald Ford vowed to
only a marginal effect on inflation. He’ll have to do more. “whip inflation” but couldn’t and lost
More important, say veterans of “The hardest part about sending that his election. Carter lost, too. From says
past administrations, is that voters message is that it’s difficult for people no one should have illusions about the
believe Biden recognizes the prob- to get it—you have to do something dra- challenge facing the current president.
lem and is responding to it. Even while matic,” says From, who toiled for two “Biden’s got a tough-ass job,” he says.
insisting inflation will be transitory, years battling inflation in Carter’s White —Joshua Green
people that are halfway, a third of the Sachs observed that the companies most surprising and disruptive that it forces a
way through a career and they hav- beloved by hedge fund long traders are sudden change in interest rates and mar-
en’t seen inflation,” says Kim Forrest, also the stocks most beloved by hedge ket psychology—and causes investors to
founder and chief investment officer at fund short sellers—the ones who bet on reassess their portfolios. “It wouldn’t
Bokeh Capital Partners. stocks falling. In other words, profes- be a 5% to 10% correction and then we
Inflation is the first hurdle every sional speculators evidently expect the bounce back,” says Michael Shaoul, chief
SPECIAL REPORT Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
Is inflation a transitory effect of the for the last decade, and blue if they are with the experts Bloomberg surveys
pandemic that will dissipate as bottle- below. In the inaugural run, on June 14, regularly, thinks inflation will die down
necks ease and comparisons move far- there were a few blazing rectangles—like within a few years, and though workers
ther from the lockdowns in the spring of car rentals—but the overall picture gave are extracting pay increases there’s no
2020? Or is it something worse? little cause for concern. sign yet of a dreaded “wage-price spi-
To figure that out, I and some col- Then the rust began to spread. ral.” This episode can no longer be dis-
leagues at Bloomberg Opinion assem- Clearly, this was more than a blip. The missed as transitory in any meaningful
bled an inflation tracker made up of latest update, from Nov. 15, almost way, but there’s no reason for now to
35 indicators that gets updated weekly. inspires hope. Prices for some import- assume that it will be another of his-
The indicators flash a deep orange if ant products and services are flat, or tory’s terrible inflationary periods.
the readings are well above the average even declining. The bond market, along —John Authers
-1 0 1 2 3 4
Both core and trimmed CPI,
which strip out some of the
The tracker on Nov. 15 more volatile elements in
the consumer price basket,
49
are more extreme than the
headline figure, which means
Economic inflation has broadened.
CPI PPI Core CPI Trimmed CPI PCE
measures
Conference
Consumer Michigan
Board NFIB Expected ISM Oil and metals prices are
and business Expected ISM Services
Expected Inflation Manufacturing still way below their last bull
sentiment Inflation
Inflation market peak. But so-called
raw industrials such as
burlap, lead scrap, and
Raw- tallow, which aren’t traded
CRB raw on futures markets, are at an
material Metals Agriculture Energy Lumber
industrials all-time high.
prices
Expert
U.S. core PCE Euro zone CPI Japan CPI U.K. CPI China CPI
forecasts
tion will increase by 4.9% over the next after his 65th birthday, and the average ability to finance new homes or cars,
year, their most dire expectation since woman three years beyond that, accord- and the sense that things were spinning
2008, according to the Michigan data. ing to the National Center for Health out of control.
And about half of all American families Statistics. So the prospect of inflation Carter—a highly admired man of
surveyed anticipate a decline in their eroding the value of their retirement impeccable character—went down to
inflation-adjusted income next year. income—and their quality of life—has a a landslide defeat to Ronald Reagan
Waning confidence reflects “an esca- particularly chilling effect on seniors. in 1980 not just because of public
lating inflation rate and the growing “Older Americans are likely more fatigue over the prolonged Iranian
belief among consumers that no effec- sensitive to inflation’s harm because hostage crisis, but also because many
tive policies have yet been developed to inflation is hurting them more,” says voters considered him unable to tame
reduce the damage from surging infla- Teresa Ghilarducci, director of the the inflation monster. It didn’t matter
tion,” Richard Curtin, director of the Schwartz Center for Economic Policy that the causes were mostly beyond his
survey, said in a statement. Analysis at the New School for Social control. When money becomes tight,
About 25% of consumers surveyed Research and co-author of Rescuing Americans have a history of looking
cited inflationary reductions in their liv- Retirement: A Plan to Guarantee for someone to blame. For that reason
ing standards this month, Curtin said. Retirement Security for All Americans. alone, policymakers in Washington
And older consumers—those folks-of- “Inflation for the elderly outpaces who ignore the festering inflation that’s
a-certain-age like me—were among the the average because elders spend rel- fueling today’s kitchen table angst do so
two groups who say inflation is having atively more on pricey medical care. at their own peril. —James E. Ellis
Bloomberg Businessweek
Ghost at
52
Boeing insisted pilots didn’t need expensive training for the new 737 Max and wouldn’t have trouble
Adapted from the new book Flying Blind: The 737 Max
November 22, 2021
the Controls
53
diagnosing software errors midflight. Then Maxes started pointing themselves toward the Earth.
Tragedy and the Fall of Boeing, by Peter Robison
Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
fighting them for control of the plane. Twenty-one times, Soon the Indonesia Divers Rescue Team was in the water,
Suneja pressed the switch to keep the nose pointing up. The retrieving cellphones, ID cards, bags, and photos. Winches
plane was cleared for 27,000 feet but had reached less than started pulling up larger pieces of debris, and the divers began
6,000. The passengers felt every sickening undulation in their hunting for the flight data recorder and cockpit voice recorder.
stomachs. Harvino finally got on the phone to ask a flight Suneja’s father went to Kramat Jati Police Hospital in East
attendant to come into the cockpit. “Yes, sir,” she answered, Jakarta, sitting mutely as an orderly swabbed the flesh inside
replacing the phone with a ca-chunk (audible on the cockpit his cheek to collect a DNA sample to identify his son’s remains.
voice recorder) and opening the door. The captain asked her During the search, one more name was added to the death toll:
to send in a Lion Air engineer, who happened to be aboard, A diver, Syachrul Anto, 48, had drowned.
to help figure out the problem. The chimes of the intercom
sounded as she called him forward.
Suneja, preparing to brief his colleague and probably
wanting a look at the handbook himself, told his copilot to
W ithin hours of the crash, John Hamilton, vice president for
engineering at Boeing Commercial Airplanes, convened
pilots and flight controls experts in Seattle to discuss what had
take over the controls. The nose dipped again. “Wah, it’s gone wrong. It wasn’t a long discussion, as Hamilton described
very …” Harvino muttered. He flicked the thumb switch but it later to congressional investigators. Automated software
not as firmly as the captain had. After a few seconds the nose known as the Maneuvering Characteristics Augmentation
fell again, and again he hit the switch. The jet tilted toward System, or MCAS, had deflected the horizontal stabilizer, the
the water. Harvino exclaimed that the plane was pointing tiny wing at the back of the plane, in response to a faulty read-
down. Suneja, distracted, answered, “It’s OK.” Ten seconds ing from the misaligned sensor. “We quickly identified that
later they were plummeting at 10,000 feet a minute. Harvino this MCAS activation could have been a scenario,” Hamilton
pulled desperately on the control column, alarms blaring. said. “And, once the flight data recorder came up later in the
(“Sink rate!” warned an automated voice.) The water was now week … we started working on a software change immediately.”
immense and terrifying. Harvino began repeating “Allahu With its spotty safety record, Lion Air took most of the heat
Akbar, Allahu Akbar”—the Muslim expression of faith, mean- for the crash. For almost a decade, until June 2016, the airline
ing “God is greater”—and the robotic voice intoned, “Terrain, had been banned from European Union airspace, along with
terrain.” Suneja was silent. most other Indonesian airlines, because of concerns about 55
At 6:32 a.m., the ghost won. Horrified fishermen on a maintenance and training practices in the country. A Lion Air
nearby boat watched as the jet, carrying 189 people, hit flight overshot a runway at Adisumarmo International Airport
the sea at an almost vertical angle at 500 miles per hour. in Central Java in 2004, killing 20 people. Another undershot
Television stations soon began broadcasting images of floating a runway in Bali in 2013 and landed in the water, splitting the
debris and interviewing the victims’ stunned relatives. “I’m fuselage; miraculously, all 108 aboard survived.
sure Dad could swim his way out,” said Nanda Ayorbaba, the A week after the Max accident in Jakarta, grieving family
13-year-old daughter of the man who only hours before had members crowded into a sweaty auditorium for a meeting
sent the choppy video. led by Indonesia’s transport minister. They spotted Lion Air’s
Kirana in the crowd and demanded he
identify himself. He stood and bowed his
head, a gesture they took as either con-
trition or shame.
At Federal Aviation Administration
offices near Seattle, engineers began
scouring their files for information about
the software in question and discovered
what looked like incomplete and inac-
curate work by the Boeing employees
entrusted to oversee safety matters as the
FAA’s authorized representatives. The
voluminous system safety assessment for
MCAS had been turned over to the agency
just five months before the plane was offi-
cially certified. The Boeing deputy who’d
ULET IFANSASTI/GETTY IMAGES
torically if “Chung Fo Ho” could handle a given procedure. water, Bartiromo asked if he regretted not telling pilots more
The Safety Review Board concluded that Boeing should about the system. “No, again, we provide all the information
issue an alert directing pilots experiencing an MCAS problem that’s needed to safely fly our airplanes,” he answered.
to a specific checklist in the Quick Reference Handbook—in this Bartiromo pressed: But was that information available to
case, the one for arresting a runaway stabilizer. The FAA the pilots? “Yeah, that’s part of the train-
went along with the recommendation on Nov. 7, issuing an ing manual, it’s an existing procedure,”
emergency airworthiness directive “prompted by analysis Muilenburg said.
performed by the manufacturer.” The bulletin told pilots “Oh, I see,” she said. But in fact, MCAS
and airlines that if an erroneous input is received from the wasn’t in the manual, unless you counted
angle-of-attack sensor, “there is a potential for repeated the glossary, which defined the term but
nose-down trim commands of the horizontal stabilizer” didn’t explain what the software did. The
and, in the anodyne language of aviation, “possible impact definition was likely a vestige of an earlier
with terrain.” It still made no mention of the MCAS soft- draft, before Boeing persuaded the FAA to
ware responsible for the malfunction. BOEING’S MUILENBURG delete a fuller description.
One captain called the Max flight manual
“inadequate and almost criminally insufficient”
In a memo to employees on Nov. 19, Muilenburg reassured time to diagnose. “This particular one is masked by so many
them, “We’re going to learn from this accident and continue other distractions,” union spokesman Dennis Tajer answered.
to improve our safety record.” Some pilots weren’t so willing “Exactly,” Michaelis agreed.
to let the matter drop. In Shanghai that fall, a couple of Boeing The plane was still new to the pilots, and few had flown it
trainers ran into a pilot from American Airlines Inc., who laid much or done little more than cursory training on an iPad.
into them for “the lives that we cost” in Indonesia, as one Michaelis fumed that, from the accounts he’d read, the soft-
of the trainers later described the uncomfortable encoun- ware had kept whacking the nose of the plane down: “You’re
ter. “Hey, hold on,” one of the Boeing employees responded, touching my stick, you know?” Boeing “would’ve had a real
cautioning the pilot to wait for more evidence. shitstorm,” he continued, if the same failure had happened on
Back in Seattle, the trainer joined a half-dozen colleagues a Max flight out of Miami and American had dropped a plane
for a briefing from Patrik Gustavsson, the chief 737 technical into Biscayne Bay. “Somebody at the corporate level made the
pilot, about how the MCAS software worked. When Gustavsson decision that this isn’t important to brief our pilots on,” he said.
told them it fired based on a single angle-of-attack vane and The pilots kept raising scenarios for Sinnett, and they ended
that it would continue firing even after a bad reading, “we were up almost talking among themselves. One pilot wondered why
universally shocked” says the trainer, who asked to remain he got only 40 minutes of training on the Max when the dis-
anonymous discussing a private conversation. They instantly play was so different from its predecessor’s. Another pointed
recognized the flaw in the design. “The pilot’s fighting the jet out that American still didn’t have a Max simulator.
the entire time,” as another person who was there puts it. Sinnett finally summoned words to match their intensity.
“You’ve got to understand that our commitment to safety is as
The M ost
rok e n
B Business
in Ame
rica
Biden’s Build Back Better year or more in child-care costs—a figure
they could barely afford. “I’m like, what
58 plan may make day care am I going to do?” she recalls. She had a
more affordable for degree in education and had always loved
parents—if the providers working with children. “So I thought,
don’t go belly up first ‘You know what? I’ll just open a child-
care program myself.’”
By Claire Suddath She started small, in 2009, with
one assistant and a license to care for
Illustration by Jee-ook Choi a handful of children in her home. In
the U.S., that’s how most child-care
providers begin. Although there are
Deanna Cohen was 20 years into a career national chains—the largest, KinderCare
in the music industry when she realized Education, enrolls 200,000 children
it wasn’t going to work out. On paper she across the country—they collectively
looked like a success: She’d worked her serve only 6% of kids. Instead the indus-
way up from college intern at a record try is overwhelmingly dominated by
company to vice president of music pro- small businesses owned by women.
gramming at a national TV network. Cohen named her place Wow &
She’d married, had a daughter, divorced, Flutterville, after an audio term meant
remarried. Then, in 2008, at age 44, she to evoke the sound of a record needle
got pregnant with her second child. finding its groove, and designed a cur-
Cohen and her family live in Portland, riculum based on the Waldorf early edu-
Ore., where the cost of caring for an cation philosophy, which focuses on
infant runs as high as $2,000 a month. imaginative play. She had craft tables
Preschool for her older child was and outdoor gardens. Within a few years
cheaper, but not much, and most of the she added a second location, then a
programs Cohen found ended at noon. third, each in a rented home. A few years
To cover a regular workday, she’d need to ago she consolidated them into a proper
tack on aftercare or a nanny. Cohen and child-care center. Today she has three
her husband were looking at $45,000 a spaces that, when fully enrolled, serve
59
Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
131 kids from 6 weeks to 5 years old. “You really have to love children to do that accept them lose money, so many
Technically, Wow & Flutterville is a day this. I always tell people, ‘If you are don’t. “I wish I could serve parents in my
care. But it looks and operates more deciding whether to be a barista or do own lower economic demographic,” says
like a school. In the U.S., public educa- this, you should be a barista.’ ” According Ashley Fleming, who runs an in-home
tion usually starts with kindergarten. to the Center for American Progress, day care in LA and doesn’t take subsidies.
Before that, parents are on their own. about 60% of child-care center costs “I’m a struggling single mom. I get it. But
Child care has become the catch-all term go to wages and benefits. When some- I can’t afford to help someone like me.”
for the day cares, nurseries, preschools, thing comes along that upends enroll- Last year, Congress’s various Covid
or any other place that looks after, and ment—like, say, a pandemic—providers relief bills allocated $52.5 billion to keep
sometimes educates, young children hemorrhage money. the industry afloat. It wasn’t enough.
while their parents are at work. Child care in the U.S. is the rare exam- Mandated shutdowns dramatically
With expansion, Wow & Flutterville ple of an almost entirely private market in reduced enrollment. More than half
can look after more kids, which means which the service offered is too expensive of child-care businesses report they’re
bringing in more money. And yet even for both consumers and the businesses losing money, and about a third have
after more than a decade, it’s almost that provide it. This reality is reflected closed. And though billions in aid seems
impossible to make the math work. in two alarming facts: In most states, like a lot of money, other industries got
“Margins are still thin, even when things putting a baby in a licensed child-care much more. One out of every 55 working
are good,” Cohen says. facility costs more than in-state college women in the U.S. works in child care or
That’s because child care doesn’t tuition, yet the people who provide that early education, yet the Cares Act gave
work like a normal business. Looking care make an average of about $24,000 a more to Delta Air Lines Inc. than to all of
after young children comes with a lit- year, less than a fast-food worker or jani- those women combined.
any of regulations to ensure the pro- tor, even though 87% of them have some That’s drastically different from how
grams are safe. There are square footage form of higher education. Every year a other governments handled things.
requirements, zoning restrictions, earth- quarter of the industry’s workers leave. Many European countries entered the
quake preparedness plans, fire safety All this adds up to an exceptionally pre- pandemic offering free public preschool
60 codes, CPR certifications, nutritional carious business model; according to a and subsidized infant care. France and
guidelines, rules about parking and out- recent study by the U.S. Department of Germany also had expansive unemploy-
door space, liability insurance. the Treasury, the typical child-care cen- ment programs. When providers closed
The priciest regulation is a child-to- ter’s profit margin is only 1%. because of health concerns, workers got
staff ratio requiring one caregiver for “The free market works well in many paid until they could reopen. Parents still
every three or four infants, depending different sectors, but child care is not one struggled to work from home, but at least
on the state. That’s a lot of employees, of them,” Treasury Secretary Janet Yellen their nurseries and preschools were still
and it explains why quality care for one said in September. Louise Stoney, a child- there when it was safe to return.
baby costs more than many families can care financial consultant who works with Right now, congressional Democrats
afford. Cheaper options are often unli- state and local governments, puts it more are negotiating the Build Back Better
censed and unregulated, and parents bluntly: “This is an industry that literally Act, a multitrillion-dollar social spend-
have no guarantee their kids are secure. can’t generate enough money to survive.” ing bill that includes a $390 billion plan
Because babies are so expensive, a lot to cut child-care costs for many U.S.
of businesses simply don’t accept them. None of this is news. Or at least, it families and provide free preschool for
Others charge less than it costs to look shouldn’t be. In 1960 the Department of every kid in America. The current ver-
after them and load up on older children. Labor and what’s now the Department sion, if fully implemented, would save
According to child-care availability stud- of Health and Human Services con- American families billions and open the
ies, almost 80% of spots are reserved for cluded that a private child-care market doors for millions of children to go to
kids 3 years and older, because they’re “will never be able to meet the current preschool. But the bill provides only a
subject to more lenient staffing require- national need.” But there’s never been rough outline of what that relief should
ments, making them cheaper to care for. enough political will to do anything look like—capping costs at 7% of most
Cohen accepts infants, charging about it. Sure, there are government families’ incomes, requiring a “living
just below $2,000 a month for babies subsidy programs, such as the Child wage” for child-care workers without
younger than 2 and $1,500 for older kids. Care and Development Fund, but they defining what that means, and relying
That doesn’t leave her much money to usually apply only to low-income par- on states to figure out the details. That
pay employees. Before Covid, Wow & ents and are so chronically underfunded is, if a state decides to adopt it at all.
Flutterville assistants started off at $15 an that just 14% of families who qualify for “What we’re considering now is a
hour, barely above Portland’s minimum them actually receive any money. whole lot closer to getting the problem
wage. Experienced teachers made $17. On top of that, subsidies only par- solved than we have ever been before,”
“That’s not a living wage,” she admits. tially cover the cost of care. Businesses says Senator Elizabeth Warren, the
Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
Massachusetts Democrat, who’s twice duty. It was really economic necessity: much more serious than it is today.”
introduced a universal child-care bill, Some 85% of working moms had hus- Instead, conservative politicians
only to see it go nowhere. “But we need bands who were fighting overseas (or discouraged women from working,
a whole lot more. It’s not good enough to had been killed) and therefore weren’t calling any form of state intervention
tell the states, ‘Oh yeah, do something.’” sending home much, if any, money. At communism. In 1958, President Dwight
In some ways, the bill puts provid- first these women got creative. Some Eisenhower castigated women who
ers and advocates in a bind. On the one dropped their kids off at the movies. “prefer a career to the active career of
hand, it’s the first time in 50 years that Others let them roam the streets with a real motherhood.” Richard Nixon took
the U.S. government has made a mean- house key tied to their neck, hence the a similar tack when he vetoed a 1971
ingful attempt at providing affordable term “latchkey kid.” bipartisan bill that would have created
child care for its citizens. On the other, Congress ultimately passed the a network of federally funded child-care
it doesn’t specify how businesses like Lanham Act of 1940, which created centers—a sort of permanent Lanham
Cohen’s will stay afloat. “The focus is on 3,102 nationally run day cares, known Act—claiming it was a “dangerous prop-
the demand side of the equation, in buy- as Lanham centers. They were federally osition that the state take the place of
ing down the costs for parents. Support funded but locally administered, with the family to raise the kids.” Fifty years
for the supply side, the businesses, needs later, in March, Idaho lawmakers rejected
to happen, too,” says Linda Smith, direc-
“We a $6 million early childhood education
na ee d
tor of the Bipartisan Policy Center’s Early grant for the same reason. “Any bill that
Childhood Initiative. “If we don’t do it makes it easier or more convenient for
right, we stand to actually make the prob- mothers to come out of the home,” state
lem worse.” Representative Charlie Shepherd said
Parents need child care because, try as whole during a debate, “I don’t think that’s
a good direction for us to be going.”
they might, and they really do, it’s not
possible to work and take care of an
infant at the same time. For centuries
men solved this immutable law of space
lot
It’s
m o
not
re.
good
Tennessee Republican Senator Marsha
Blackburn recently tweeted, “You know
who else liked universal day care,” linking
to a 1974 New York Times article on subsi-
61
and time by relying on women to look dized care in the Soviet Union.
after the kids. But that was never a great enough to tell the states, This posturing ignores economic
solution. Sometimes a spouse fell ill or
even died. Others left their family. Men
didn’t always earn enough on their own
‘Oh yeah, do reality. Today almost 70% of children
under 6 in the U.S. live in a home where
all available adults work. Child care is
to support a family. And of course, for something’ ” so expensive—about 13% of the typical
most of U.S. history, access to a good edu- two-parent American family’s income
cation and a well-paying job was a priv- services and hours tailored to employ- and 36% of a single parent’s—it affects
ilege rarely afforded to people of color. ees’ needs. Parents paid the equivalent people’s ability to make a living. For
The first U.S. institution to offer of what today would be $8 to $13 a day. decades the U.S. has had chronically low
daily care of infants, the House of Lanham centers were wildly successful levels of female employment, especially
Industry in Philadelphia, was a nurs- but existed only until the end of the war, among women age 25 to 50, compared
ery attached to a workroom that when the funds were withdrawn. To this with places such as Canada, Germany,
employed widows whose husbands had day they remain the only time the U.S. and the U.K., which is a drag on gross
died in the 1793 yellow fever epidemic. government has offered an affordable domestic product. In a 2018 study ana-
Jane Addams founded Hull-House in child-care solution for working parents. lyzing why so many American women
Chicago in 1889, in part because she The country then spent 75 years stopped working in the middle of their
learned that garment workers were trapped in an ideological debate: Should career, the Federal Reserve Bank of
tying their toddlers to kitchen table legs the government help children of work- San Francisco cited the absence of paid
when they had no one to watch them. ing parents, or would that encourage parental leave and a functioning child-
The government stayed out of child mothers to work outside the home and care system. If the U.S. offered something
care, though, out of a general wariness therefore threaten some idealized notion similar to what other industrialized coun-
of anything that encouraged mothers of family life? In 1960 the commissioner tries do, the study concluded, it would
to work. That briefly changed during of the Bureau of Labor Statistics laid out add 5 million people to its workforce.
World War II, when about 1.5 million the facts: Women’s entrance into the Kids are missing out, too. According
women with children younger than 10 workforce was both growing and perma- to the Organization for Economic
entered the workforce out of what was nent. Unless something was done to help Cooperation and Development, the U.S.
widely perceived as a sense of patriotic them, “the day-care problem can become invests fewer public dollars in early
Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
education and care as a proportion the same services because their parents cares lost money. Some closed. Because
of GDP than almost all of the other can’t afford it.” According to surveys, 60% of universal pre-K, New York lost about
38 countries the organization tracks. of families with children under 5 in the 2,700 infant and toddler spots, almost
As a result, while more than 90% of county couldn’t afford child care without all of them in poor neighborhoods.
3-year-olds are in preschool in France, assistance, but state subsidies reached Like many places around the coun-
Germany, South Korea, Spain, the U.K., only 15% of them. try, Multnomah County already had an
and a slew of other places, in the U.S. Preschool, with its emphasis on edu- infant-care shortage. It didn’t want to
the figure is 40%. cation, has never been as polarizing as make things worse.
“There’s very robust, strong day care. That’s why Head Start, the Then there were practical challenges.
economic literature that documents 1965 program for low-income children, Vega Pederson assumed the program
the positive effects of early childhood starts with 3-year-olds; it was conceived would run on school hours, but parents
education,” says Catherine Wolfram, a as a way to prepare them for elementary wanted it to include before- and after-
deputy assistant secretary at the U.S. school. And it’s why some cities, such as care, better aligning with their work-
Treasury, who wrote its child-care New York and the District of Columbia, days. “If you build a preschool program
report. “Educating kids has all these have successfully introduced their own but make it so that only certain families
benefits for the rest of society.” And yet subsidized preschool programs. can use it, you haven’t fixed anything,”
the country has failed to act. Gray-Holifield and the other parents Gray-Holifield says. At one contentious
meeting parents pushed for workday
In the absence of a federal program, hours, but Vega Pederson worried that
state and local governments have been
“This
isn’t a job sounded too much like day care, a tough
adult can
left to deal with their child-care needs sell to voters; the whole thing seemed on
on their own. One of the most ambi- the verge of collapse.
tious local solutions is being imple- an So they compromised. Preschool
mented in Oregon’s Multnomah County, for All would offer free preschool, but
which in November passed a measure hold and support before- and aftercare would be provided
62 called Preschool for All. Next year the
county, which includes Portland, will themselves, on a sliding scale, depending on a fam-
ily’s ability to pay. The program would
begin offering free preschool to all 3- and
4-year-olds who live there, regardless of never mind a be phased in over 10 years, starting with
those determined to be most in need,
family
their family’s income. such as children of color, those in foster
It took nine complicated years for care, or those who are homeless, among
Multnomah County to arrive at Preschool
for All, and it will take 10 more before ” others. Small, in-home providers could
apply to join, which would allow them
it’s fully realized. The journey began in to keep their 3- and 4-year-olds enrolled
2012, when Oregon overhauled its early who made up the PAC pushed for a pre- and avoid repeating New York’s mistake.
education system in an effort to rectify school program that would be completely Addressing the needs of child-care
an alarming fact: About 35% of the state’s free—but to get the money to fund it, they workers was harder. At the time, Portland
children entered kindergarten without needed voters to pass a ballot measure. preschool teachers made an average of
basic skills like knowing the alphabet or In 2018 they took their idea to Jessica $13.70 per hour, and child-care centers
how to count to 100, largely because their Vega Pederson, a county commissioner, were losing a quarter of their workforce
parents couldn’t afford to send them to who convened a task force of business annually, even before the pandemic.
preschool. The legislature passed a law leaders, preschool providers, and early Preschool for All was going to create
that created 16 regional early learning education specialists to turn their idea about 580 classrooms that served an
hubs throughout the state, each one into an official proposal. additional 12,000 children; Multnomah
given about $5 million to address the They began by looking at existing County needed more preschool teach-
problem as they saw fit. When Early programs to see what to copy—and ers, not fewer. It had to increase wages
Learning Multnomah, one of the hubs, what to avoid. They learned, for exam- without making it unaffordable for the
asked parents what they needed, the ple, that when New York City started its small businesses that paid them.
answer was clear: affordable child care. universal preschool program in 2014 it To do this, the task force worked with
“We’re talking about parents who expanded quickly, quadrupling the num- Oregon’s Legislative Revenue Office on a
have to choose between rent and child ber of 4-year-olds who attended in only tax that would generate sufficient funds
care,” says Lydia Gray-Holifield, who has five years, without a contingency plan to increase the number of preschool
two children and joined the hub’s Parent for the day cares that had been serv- teachers and pay them the equivalent of
Accountability Council, or PAC. “Black ing them. Stripped of the 4-year-olds a kindergarten teacher’s salary, or $35.73
and brown kids who are not receiving who’d been offsetting infant costs, day an hour. They settled on a tiered 1.5%
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Bloomberg Businessweek November 22, 2021
to 2.3% tax hike on individuals with economies rely on working parents and program it started in March to study
taxable income of more than $125,000 that they needed to better support them. whether the state, parents, and their
and households with more than Canada is considering a national sys- employers can share child-care costs
$200,000. Once the tax is fully in effect in tem modeled after Quebec’s, which has equally. In Oregon, county commissioner
2026, it will generate about $202 million a been around for 20 years and currently Vega Pederson has met with state offi-
year, $25 million of which will be set aside charges parents about $8 a day. Australia cials about how to apply Preschool for All
to raise wages for caregivers at child-care made child care free for three months last more broadly. “I want to be clear, we’re
centers offering infant and toddler care. year before expanding its subsidy pro- just at the early, early stage of things,” she
“It’s a dream piece of policy,” says Megan gram to cover as much as 95% of fami- says. “But the momentum we have at the
Irwin, an early education consultant who lies’ costs. France, long considered the national level to make huge investments
worked on Preschool for All. “We really gold standard of early education, didn’t across the country is unprecedented.”
tried to think through all the components have to do much; its government-subsi- Even if the bill becomes law and
and funding as best we could.” dized creche system for kids up to age 3 states take the money, help won’t come
Preschool for All passed with 64% dates to 1844. fast enough for many parents. We’re
of the vote, but because of the pan- The U.S. doesn’t have an existing in a nationwide child-care crisis now.
demic, the problems it aims to fix have program to fall back on, so it’s scrambling Portland’s toddlers will be teenagers by
only gotten worse. Ninety-five percent to catch up. Build Back Better would dras- the time Preschool for All, a program
of child-care owners and employees are tically reduce child-care costs for many already under way, is fully operational.
women, and almost 40% are women of families and help some of the 2.2 million Wow & Flutterville will likely make it
color, many of whom were forced to quit women who dropped out of the work- through the pandemic, but there were
to stay home with their own kids during force during the depths of the pandemic many bleak moments this year. At first,
the lockdowns. Others simply didn’t want return to work. But its success hinges on Portland forced child-care centers to
to live in poverty anymore. “I couldn’t how it’s adopted by individual states. close unless they served children of
afford rent. I lived with my parents. I The act won’t create an entirely new essential workers. Wow & Flutterville
didn’t have a car,” says Olivia Pace, one of child-care system from scratch. All it replaced most of its middle- class fam-
64 the many preschool teachers in Portland would do is make money available for ilies, the ones who paid full price, with
who left the profession during Covid. states to do it themselves. To receive kids whose parents worked at a local
Pace, who’s 25 and has a degree in child federal funding, state plans have to meet grocery store, many of whom were on
and family studies from Portland State certain criteria: a bump in worker pay, state subsidies. “They were so appre-
University, started as a teacher’s assistant universal preschool for all 3- and 4-year- ciative to get access to this kind of
for $12 an hour. She worked her way up to olds, and a subsidy program that makes program,” Cohen says. But Oregon’s
a lead preschool teacher, making $17.25, day care completely free for low-income subsidies covered only half her costs.
but had no health insurance. “I always families, capping costs for others at no “We barely got by.”
knew I’d have to leave when I turned more than 7% of a family’s income, given While bringing in less money, Cohen
26 and got kicked off my parents’ insur- certain qualifying parameters. States can raised wages by $3 an hour to keep her
ance,” she says. “This isn’t a job an adult decide to take money for preschool but employees from quitting. Then, when
can hold and support themselves, never reject additional funds to subsidize other a longtime child-care center went out
mind a family.” forms of child care. Or a state could call of business, she swooped in and rented
Cohen, Wow & Flutterville’s owner, all this communism and do nothing. its building. “Financially I wasn’t really
says she’d love to participate in the pro- Beyond that, there’s not a lot of detail ready to do it,” she says, but Portland
gram, but navigating entirely new reg- in the bill. States have no guidance on has such strict zoning requirements for
ulations is something she can’t take on how to help child-care businesses pay centers that few existing buildings qual-
right now. She says she lost 30% of her higher wages, for example. Linda Smith, ify, and she knew it was her best chance
business during the pandemic, and just of the Bipartisan Policy Center, says that to expand.
the other day her second-in-command, in some states, the bill could push the With vaccination rates climbing,
a woman who’d worked for her for cost of infant care up from $20,000 to Cohen assumed her centers would fill up
eight years, quit because she couldn’t more than $33,000 a year—and that’s for quickly this fall. But families have been
find after-school care for her own kids. just one baby. “And then if we pull out slower to return than she expected. Her
“I’m still struggling day to day. The pan- all the 3- and 4-year-olds and put them new location is only a third full. To sur-
demic isn’t over,” Cohen says. “The in preschool?” Smith says. “In the short vive, Wow & Flutterville will have to raise
timing is awful.” term, it might be catastrophic.” its prices 5% more next year. “I’m con-
The act is better thought of as a scious of the fact that this is a huge finan-
The U.S. isn’t completely alone in child- framework for states to find their own cial hit for families,” Cohen says. But what
care hell. During the pandemic, gov- solutions. Some have already started. choice does she have? The money has to
ernments awoke to the reality that their Michigan recently expanded a pilot come from somewhere.
Designing community-focused buildings? I knew how to do that. But building a business? That
was a whole new world. I was lucky to have a mentor take me under his wing and show me the
business side of things — and I was hooked! I eventually negotiated an equity stake, becoming
president of the Texas division and then the corporate division.
In 2015, a very good friend from the Dallas Black Chamber of Commerce introduced me to her
CEO coach (Vistage Chair) and peer advisory group. I knew it was exactly the kind of support I
needed to take my company to the next level.
At the time, I was grappling with how to handle regional differences and how to attract top
talent. We’ve since solved for both and so much more — including growing revenue without
outpacing our ability to deliver. Now fully aligned with our core mission, we’re achieving new
heights as a company.
I’m Darren. I live a life of climb.
Darren
Darren James
President, KAI Enterprises, Irving, Texas
Vistage member since 2015
U
74
Adults-only cruises
are all about
playing around
75
R
Louis Vuitton’s
little felt bag
S
U
I
T
S 67
The Gucci
Girlfriend
A love affair with Sheree McLaughlin led fashion
scion Maurizio Gucci to leave his wife—a decision
November 22, 2021
that would get him killed. As audiences ready for
Edited by
Ridley Scott’s retelling in House of Gucci, McLaughlin Chris Rovzar
shares her story for the first time. By Sara Forden Businessweek.com
CRIME Bloomberg Pursuits November 22, 2021
E
arly one summer morning in 1984, Sheree dark-haired Italian who looked like Joan Collins—though she
McLaughlin walked down to the buzzing port never came aboard the little motorboat.
in the Sardinian town of Porto Cervo on Italy’s About three weeks in, she asked one of the American sail-
Costa Smeralda, named for the ocean’s brilliant ors, “Who is that guy that I’m going out on the boat with?”
blue-green hues. The local yacht club had orga- “That’s Maurizio Gucci, Sheree,” the sailor said.
nized the 12-Metre Class World Championship for the first He was an heir to Italy’s most famous fashion dynasty,
time and was backing the Italian challenger for the upcoming and their days on the little motorboat would spark an almost
1987 America’s Cup. The team had attracted some of the best seven-year love affair. The relationship would play into his
sailors in the world, including her then-husband, an expert decision to leave his wife, Patrizia Reggiani, and ignite a fierce
spinnaker designer. divorce battle—one that would eventually lead to his murder.
Sheree, 26 at the time, was a lanky blonde from Orange,
Conn., and a seasoned sailor herself. For the first few days The story of Maurizio Gucci and his untimely death is infamous
of the competition, she’d been in Italy—and will soon be viewed
directed to a large yacht that by audiences around the world
had been chartered to entertain as it’s retold by director Ridley
the sailors’ wives, families, and Scott in the film House of Gucci.
friends. The guests were plied Adam Driver plays Maurizio,
with food and Champagne and and Lady Gaga portrays Patrizia,
followed the race at a distance the glamorous wife who was
through binoculars. “Nobody eventually convicted of paying
knew what they were watching, a hit man to have him killed.
and I hated it,” she says. Al Pacino, Jared Leto, and
To find an alternative, Sheree Jeremy Irons play Gucci fam-
tried to hitch a ride with a film ily members fighting over the
crew in a small motorboat future of the luxury brand.
68 headed out to capture the race. (Sheree, whose story was largely
A tall man with sandy brown unknown until now, is not por-
hair wearing white jeans, a trayed in the film.)
light blue chambray shirt, and The saga in Scott’s film is one
aviator sunglasses responded in I know well. It’s based on a book
Italian-accented English. “Are I wrote 20 years ago, The House
you sure?” he asked. “You’re of Gucci: A Sensational Story of
going to get wet.” He warned Murder, Madness, Glamour, and
that they didn’t have good food Greed. Back then, I took leave
like on the wives’ yacht. from my job as Milan bureau
PREVIOUS PAGE: COURTESY SHEREE MCLAUGHLIN. PHOTOGRAPH BY IKE ABAKAH FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK
“That’s OK. That’s not what chief for Women’s Wear Daily. I
I want,” she replied. “I want to interviewed over 100 people for
watch the race.” it, including many family mem-
Over the next few days, bers and Gucci employees who
Sheree taught the little crew were present at key moments.
about sailing, how to pull up to But until this year, I never had
McLaughlin today at a farm near her home in Wilton, Conn.
the racing boats without getting the opportunity to interview
in the way, and how to get tight Sheree. Her perspective was a
shots as they rounded the buoys. She got soaked and loved missing piece. This was unfortunate, as she held unique knowl-
every minute of it. Italy kept winning, and she ended up stay- edge of the family’s turmoil—and Maurizio’s motivations.
ing almost four weeks. The year before she met Mau on the dock in Porto Cervo,
The gang called the man with the white jeans and aviator Maurizio’s father, Rodolfo, had died, leaving him 50% of the
glasses “Mau.” Sheree was struck by how delighted he was by family company. At that time, the brand’s luster was fading.
being out on the water. The fashion house had overlicensed its famous logo, which
“It was as though he didn’t have anything like that in his appeared on everything from coffee mugs to plastic toilet kits
life,” Sheree says. “He had come alive. We laughed so hard. and Scotch bottles. Meanwhile, Milan had wrested the semi-
I felt like I had known him all my life.” annual presentations of women’s ready-to-wear away from
And yet she had no idea who he was, and since they were Florence, where Gucci was headquartered, and a tribe of
both married, she didn’t ask questions. He would arrive in young new designers, with names such as Giorgio Armani,
Porto Cervo by helicopter, sometimes with his wife, a petite, Gianni Versace, and Gianfranco Ferré, was starting to flourish.
CRIME Bloomberg Pursuits November 22, 2021
Maurizio, who was only 35 at the time, realized that to architect of a new era for the brand. His ideas included building
remain competitive, his family leather goods company had an expensive new headquarters in Milan and buying a costly
to find a new direction. He was nurturing a vision to bring 16th century villa outside Florence to house a center for train-
the brand to the forefront of the European luxury market and ing artisans in craftsmanship and executives in branding. He
joined the Italian consortium that was sponsoring the 1987 also cut out the cash cow products that he felt cheapened
America’s Cup challenger. The historic race captured just Gucci’s image.
the kind of elite viewers in the U.S. and Europe to which the One day in 1985, Maurizio told his wife he was leaving on
company catered. a business trip, packed a bag, and never returned. “I was the
Sheree would spot him around the cafes and designer bou- catalyst,” Sheree says. With her he’d seen another kind of life.
tiques of Porto Cervo, all painted a soft pink to resemble the “I didn’t want to break up his marriage, but he said it was
local stone. They shared an innocent motorcycle ride while her already broken.”
husband was on the water, and on her last night in the seaside Sheree got a divorce a year later, and Maurizio rented
resort, the sailing crowd had a dinner, and she and Maurizio her a little apartment in New York. He flew back and forth
danced together under the stars. She went home early that often. They rarely used his grand penthouse at Olympic
night and flew out the next day. Tower in Midtown Manhattan, a gift from his father, where
Maurizio tracked he’d lived with Patrizia
down Sheree in in the 1970s. They felt
Clearwater, Fla., where the staff there would
she and her husband feed information back
had opened an opera- to Signora Gucci.
tion for the sailmaker But Patrizia wasn’t
North Sails, and called going to let him—or
her every day. He started everything being a Gucci
telling her about the entailed—go.
heavy legacy his father Patrizia had come
had handed down to from humble origins, 69
him. He’d become the which caused Rodolfo
brand’s single largest Gucci to oppose their
shareholder, but it didn’t we d d i n g i n 1 9 7 2 .
give him the power to Her adoptive father,
control the company. Ferdinando Reggiani,
He’d grown frustrated was well off, but Milan’s
trying to get his family business and finan-
members who held the cial elite looked down
other 50%—his Uncle on her. Still, over the
Aldo and his cous- course of their marriage,
ins Giorgio, Roberto, she became a well-
and Paolo—to share his known figure in Italian
vision. Maurizio didn’t Adam Driver as Maurizio Gucci and Lady Gaga as Patrizia Reggiani, in one of the society. She played the
have the money to buy first images from Ridley Scott’s film to be shared from the set role of powerful wife,
them out, so he hatched chauffeured around
a secret plan to use an outside investment bank to do it and town in her Chanel suits. She pushed her husband to become
put him in charge. the leading CEO in Italy’s fashion firmament. As I wrote in my
He also told Sheree that he had two daughters he adored book, she would announce to people, “The era of Maurizio
and that he was unhappily married to their mother, Patrizia. has begun!”
Sheree told her husband she was going to see Maurizio
FABIO LOVINO/METRO-GOLDWYN-MAYER PICTURES
about a possible job, scrounged through her mother’s closet Sheree left the world of international luxury intrigue long ago.
to find some clothes appropriate for Europe, and flew to Nice, She now lives in suburban Wilton, Conn., where she works
France. As she descended the stairs of her hotel, Maurizio was for a geese control company that uses border collies to clear
waiting for her at the bottom and announced dramatically, flocks. She has two daughters from a second marriage and
“I am your knight in shining armor—only I forgot the horse!” still loves to sail.
Maurizio was transforming from the shy, awkward young While I was reporting the book in the late 1990s, Sheree
man who’d grown up in his father’s shadow into the chief exec- eluded my calls and emails, and I wasn’t able to include her
utive officer of the family company. Even though he could be side of the story. One day in 2001, I was presenting the paper-
charming and playful, he was fiercely determined to be the back edition at a bookstore in New York. As the guests were
CRIME Bloomberg Pursuits November 22, 2021
leaving, a tall, attractive blond woman came up to me with The drama and the travel started to weigh on Sheree in
tears in her eyes. She explained she was Sheree McLaughlin. the second half of 1989. She told Maurizio that she wanted to
She said she loved the book and wished she’d spoken with me. end their relationship, even though she said she would always
We hugged—and went our separate ways for the next be in love with him. She wanted to settle down and start a
20 years. When news of the movie adaptation splashed across family. “I just got tired of the flying back and forth and the
the internet last year, Sheree got in touch. She recalled her rela- waiting and being all alone,” she says. “I really just wanted to
tionship with Maurizio—which lasted from 1984 to 1990—as a have a normal life.”
real-life Cinderella story. They each wanted to help the other He didn’t believe she was serious, but he was so enmeshed
“fly,” she says. In the first few years after they met, Sheree took with his family and legal troubles, he couldn’t offer her the life
the Concorde back and forth between New York and London she wanted. They cried together. On their last evening, they
or Paris to see him. He would pick her up from the airport in went to the theater and for dinner at the steakhouse Smith
his black Ferrari and drive her to & Wollensky, one of their favor-
St. Moritz, where he’d inherited ite New York spots. He told her
his father’s chalet. “We would get he would never see her again;
clocked and pulled over doing it would be too painful to stay
200 kilometers an hour,” she says. in touch.
“He would have to pay somebody Maurizio was a compelling but
something like $5,000 not to get tragic figure—the link to Gucci’s
a ticket.” past and, ultimately, the reason
They would hit the slopes in the family lost control of it. His
the Alps around the Swiss village, big initiatives of the late 1980s—
going up in a sleigh piled with cutting back on profitable but
furs and skiing down—stopping more mass products, such as can-
for wine-fueled lunches along vas GG-logo handbags, and that
the way. Maurizio said he always new headquarters—brought the
70 wore white ski pants because brand to the brink of bankruptcy.
if he fell, no one would know, I met Maurizio Gucci in 1991 at
Sheree recalls. (In the first hotly a press conference in the luxuri-
circulated images from the film, ous Gucci building he had refur-
Driver, wearing white ski pants, bished in Milan. He’d attracted
poses with Lady Gaga.) attention when he hired Bergdorf
Sheree got a job at Sotheby’s Goodman’s president, Dawn
in 1988 and moved to London, Mello, as his creative director,
which made it easier for them to who in turn brought in soon-
see each other. He doted on her, to-be-legendary designer Tom
but he didn’t want her to move to Ford. Maurizio was ebullient in
Milan, where he thought the strict describing his vision to trans-
social codes—and the Milanese form the company into a top-tier
socialites—would make them luxury brand on par with Hermès
both miserable. The same year, of France, restoring Gucci to the
From left: Gucci, McLaughlin, Gucci America PR chief Anastasia
he forced out his remaining fam- Piper, Gucci America President Domenico De Sole, and Fifth glory days it had known under his
ily members from Gucci. Avenue store manager Stephanie Gale at a charity event in 1990 father and grandfather.
She would meet him in He reeled off sales projections
European port cities—Bremen, Monte Carlo, Palma de and said the company would break even that year, despite a
Mallorca—to help restore his prized historic sailing yacht, the 20% plunge in revenue. In the ensuing weeks, sources told me
Creole. It was a project she says took five years—and $25 million. stories about how badly Maurizio’s turnaround of Gucci was
Once, they flew together to New York, where Maurizio kept failing, and I wrote articles that exposed the brand’s dire sit-
a Rolls-Royce. He told Sheree they were going to play Arthur, uation. He was always charming during our follow-up inter-
referring to the 1981 film starring Dudley Moore as a spoiled views, even as he disputed my reporting.
COURTESY SHEREE MCLAUGHLIN
alcoholic billionaire who liked to be driven through Central Investcorp, the Bahrain-based company that in 1988 had
Park in his Rolls. “I didn’t know what he meant!” Sheree bought out the 50% of Gucci owned by Aldo and his sons,
recalls. Later she urged him to give up the car and take taxis, watched the mounting debts and used them to force Maurizio
because she learned one of his drivers was spying on them for out in 1993, paying him $135 million for his shares. “He thought
Patrizia. Maurizio told her many times during their relationship they believed in him,” Sheree says. “I said, ‘No, they want to
that he was afraid one day Patrizia was going to kill him. make money. They’re not your bank!’ ”
A Timeline of Timeless Accessories
Gucci celebrates a century of business this year,
with many ups and downs along the way
Maurizio was well aware of the brand’s allure in the business Director Tom Ford. I covered “Tom and Dom” for WWD as well
and financial world. He described the company as a “siren who as the stunning success of the initial public offering that net-
beckoned men to come and fall in love, and none would ever ted almost $2 billion, enough to repay Investcorp’s investment
want to leave,” says Rick Swanson, who oversaw Investcorp’s many times over. Gucci is now controlled by François-Henri
investment in Gucci and later went to work directly for the Pinault’s Kering SA.
fashion brand. “Of course,” Swanson adds, “we all know what Under Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s
the mythological sirens did to the men they lured.” gender-fluid, romantic styles have captured a younger clien-
tele, propelling the brand back to the forefront of global lux-
On March 27, 1995, Sheree had just walked into her office at ury labels. Maurizio’s dreams of Gucci bearing the standard
Vogue, where she was working as a merchandising editor after for Italy have come true.
a stint at Calvin Klein, when the phone rang. It was Allan Tuttle, On Nov. 2 the brand produced a blockbuster fashion
who’d been Maurizio’s lawyer and had gone on to work for show that closed down Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles.
Gucci. “Sit down,” Tuttle said. He told her that Maurizio had Celebrities including Leto, Macaulay Culkin, and Dakota
been shot and was dead. She hung up and sat there in shock. Johnson wore the designs alongside musicians such as Miley
“I never thought I would never see him again,” she says. Cyrus, Phoebe Bridgers, and Lizzo. Ridley Scott was there, as
Maurizio had been killed by a hit man as he walked up the was Pinault and his wife, Salma Hayek, who also stars in the
steps of his office building in Milan. Two years later, Patrizia House of Gucci. It was a masterfully managed fantasy.
was arrested for hiring the killer, after a tipster went to the Even though Gucci had a more classic vision for the
police. Judge Renato Samek, when issuing her sentence in brand in those days, it proved the company has the kind of
November 1998 after a five-month trial, said that Maurizio had star power that McLaughlin saw Gucci envision years ago.
GETTY IMAGES (2). 1STDIBS (2). GUCCI (2)
died not for who he was but for what he had: a formidable Today, Sheree believes he could have been successful if he’d
patrimony and an internationally recognized name. “Patrizia had the right kind of support to help him execute his dreams
Reggiani did not intend to give these up,” said Samek, looking without overreaching.
out over the courtroom. She was sentenced to 26 years in “A lot of people around him weren’t truthful. He needed
prison and released on parole after 18 years. someone to help rein him in,” she says, referring to the
In July that year, Domenico De Sole was named CEO of legions of yes-men he leaned on to advise him. “Maurizio was
Gucci and started working on reintroducing it with Creative a dreamer.”
HOME Bloomberg Pursuits November 22, 2021
This Little
things you can design.”
That might explain the huge variety of options on the
market. Materials can range from 3D-printed plant polymers
Lamp of Mine
to corrugated steel or black granite.
The prevailing trend at the moment is to do away with
shades altogether and use form to make a statement. Some
lamps project their beams in perfect, geometrically crisp
circles; others might bounce the light off a brass plate.
Let these lights shine into
For his Mushroom bedside table lamp (below), Pourfard
whatever corner needs some charm says the most important considerations were that it not be
By Monica Khemsurov too bright and be able to be directed as needed.
“There is space for many types of light, whether ambi-
Photographs by Stephanie Price
ent or more direct,” Pourfard says. For evidence, look no
further than this collection of six fixtures.
72
73
was that there was more day drinking on Scarlet Lady, more
dirty chat, and more PDA, especially in the hot tubs. The main
sentiment I heard during my four-night cruise: It’s great to not
have to deal with other people’s kids. Hard to argue with that.
Luxury, as Virgin Voyages sees it, is about letting your guard
down and enjoying what happens when others do the same. In
2021 that means requiring vaccines and preboard testing—but
no masks. Rates start at $1,550 per double-occupancy cabin for
four-night sailings to the Bahamas or five-night trips to Mexico.
That’s more than three times what a comparable voyage on
Royal Caribbean costs but only a fourth of the price of a one-
week itinerary with Seabourn, which starts at about $6,200.
“A certain segment coming onboard thinks it’s a swinger’s
cruise,” says Gene Sloan, 52, cruise writer for The Points Guy,
who on the maiden voyage was asked by an older couple in
an elevator why no one was getting naked. But Frank Weber,
Virgin’s senior vice president for hotel operations, dispels that
notion: “It’s sipping Champagne and listening to a DJ.”
Night Stand inaugural crowd ranged all the way from 20- to 80-year-olds,
including frequent cruisers, first-timers, singles, gay couples,
Jerry Garcia lookalikes, and women in black leather.
Hairstylist Justin Hipp, 32, who was honeymooning with
74 Virgin Voyages offers sexy, his new husband, Bren, said he thought the ship would be
adults-only fare to court “more inclusive than family-oriented cruises.” The thigh
tattoo he got onboard (of the ice cream shop’s “Lick Me” logo)
the next generation of cruisers is one sign he felt embraced. Among Virgin’s free-spirited
By Fran Golden crew, many sport their own ink, nose rings, or dyed hair.
Scarlet Lady throws out a lot of cruise conventions. There’s
no main dining room, and the six restaurants replacing it are
Amid the flashing lights, blaring house music, and all included in the fares. At Test Kitchen, the five-course menu
gyrating dancers at a sea-goddess-themed bash on the features a perfectly cooked egg yolk with caviar and peas
2,770-passenger Scarlet Lady, single mom Kylie Story felt that arrives in a smoking orb. Servers at the Korean barbecue
so uninhibited that she jumped into the pool. She didn’t Gunbae prepare meat and seafood on electric grills while lead-
even pause to remove her long crimson dress or butterfly ing drinking games; the first round of soju is on the house.
wings. Story, 32, and a friend had booked a cabin on Richard Entertainment is similarly nontraditional. Duel Reality,
Branson’s first Virgin Voyages ship, which began adults-only created with Montreal’s 7 Fingers collective, is a jaw-dropping
sailings in October after 18 months of delays. “This is living spectacle of acrobatics and faux fighting. A wild nightclub,
life a little on the wild side,” she said, dripping wet, some- the Manor, is in a sultry duplex space created by Roman &
where between Miami and Nassau. Williams, designers of New York’s Boom Boom Room. You get
Branson says Virgin goes “where no other cruise company theater tickets and dining reservations using a Virgin Voyages
has gone before.” With that, he’s challenging the industry’s app—which kept crashing on my trip. When it works, you
sleepy reputation. On Scarlet Lady, the first of three ships set- can shake your phone to get a bottle of Moët & Chandon
ting sail by the end of 2022, Broadway revues are swapped for Champagne ($95) delivered anywhere by a server wearing a
tattoo parlors and pelvic-thrusting dance classes. “Sailors”— red ice bucket sling.
Virgin-speak for “guests”—can cool down at the “Lick Me The cabins are almost beside the point, but they have some
Till … Ice Cream” shop and heat up at sex seminars that urge creative design details, such as Walter Knoll beds that convert
audience participation. “If you believe sex is good, say yes. into L-shaped couches by day. Swinging hammock chairs on
ILLUSTRATION BY LOVEIS WISE
If you don’t, get the f--- out!” a resident “sexologist” shouted balconies seem to float over the water.
at a rowdy crowd of about 135. (Nobody got out.) Whether these perks attract new-to-cruising millennials—
Other lines, such as Viking Ocean Cruises, don’t allow or alienate the fiftysomethings who are booking—will be the
children but are geared toward seniors. As a seasoned cruise test of Virgin’s conceit. It may not be Mr. Right for any of
writer, the main differences that I saw, aside from mean age, them, but it sure is fun for right now.
THE ONE Bloomberg Pursuits November 22, 2021
Felt Like It
The classic Louis Vuitton Keepall now comes
in a material suited for cozy season
By Kristen Shirley Photograph by Naila Ruechel
More than ever, fashion designers are mining THE COMPETITION THE CASE
their house’s archives and reinventing • Fendi’s 10.2-inch Peekaboo ISeeU minibag Introduced in 1930, Louis Vuitton’s Keepall
iconic silhouettes, whether shrinking them ($4,700) rocks the expected interlocking has been a longtime go-to for stylish
into toylike versions of the originals or FF logo, but it’s made from a braided fabric, travelers. It comes in many sizes and is
rendering them in eco-friendly fabrics. For not leather. measured in centimeters, which is stated in
Louis Vuitton’s fall collection, men’s artistic • German luggage brand Rimowa recently the name. (Keepall 50, at almost 20 inches
director Virgil Abloh did both: The Keepall XS introduced a Lilliputian version of its long, is the standard.) Less than half the
($2,950) is only 8.3 inches long and, instead aluminum luggage in the form of the hard- size of the staple duffel bag, and having
of leather, it’s made of a fuzzy felt in a shell $1,560 cross-body bag. an adjustable leather shoulder strap, the
jacquard weave. The wool is recycled, the • At 11.8 inches across, the padded unisex XS is more clutch than carryall—
cotton is organic, and even the hardware, nylon cross-body bag from Bottega it’s ideal for keeping wallet, phone,
down to the flower-embossed rivets, is Veneta ($1,450) still riffs on its signature passport, and other essentials in easy
likewise crafted from recycled plastic. intrecciato technique of braided leather. reach. $2,950; louisvuitton.com
75
LAST THING
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Fixing the Supply Chain
With M&A
By Brooke Sutherland
Just about anything that could go wrong facilities in Oregon and South Carolina.
76 with global supply chains has gone “We’re going to take the steps neces-
wrong in the past two years: There’s sary to serve our customers and elim-
been a pandemic, volatile swings inate problems for them, and this is
in demand, an unrelenting wave of an important step in our ability to do
extreme weather events, shortages of that,” Sherwin-Williams Chief Executive
workers and cargo space—even a giant Officer John Morikis said on a call with
container ship lodged in the Suez Canal. investors. Chocolate giant Hershey Co.
It’s an operating environment that exec- just announced it’s buying not only
utives have taken to comparing to a Dot’s Pretzels—a fast-growing brand with
game of whack-a-mole. The term has a cult following—but also Pretzels Inc.,
been used at least 30 times on inves- which manufactures products for Dot’s
tor calls in recent months, according and other snack companies at three
to data compiled by Bloomberg. facilities in Indiana and Kansas.
Now a growing number of companies are deciding that CEOs are betting that integration of manufacturing and
if they want something done right on their supply-chain distribution operations will give them earlier insight into
management, they’re going to have to do it themselves. potential pain points and more flexibility to address them.
Walmart Inc. and Home Depot Inc. are among the U.S. The current crunch has exposed the vulnerabilities of
retailers that have chartered their own container ships overly globalized supply chains and the risks of depending
to speed deliveries. Specialty retailer American Eagle on someone else to meet customer demand. One reason
Outfitters Inc. has acquired a pair of logistics compa- the semiconductor shortage was so crippling for the auto
nies—AirTerra and Quiet Logistics Inc.—to help manage industry was that chip purchasing decisions were made
inventory and compete with larger companies in offering deep into the supply chain. The end vehicle manufacturers
affordable same-day or next-day delivery. didn’t know there wasn’t enough supply to support a pro-
Sherwin-Williams Co. announced in late September that duction rebound until it was too late, David Simchi-Levi,
ILLUSTRATION BY GEORGE WYLESOL
it would acquire coating ingredients company Specialty a professor of engineering at the Massachusetts Institute
Polymers Inc. to bring more of its supply chain in-house of Technology who focuses on supply chain management,
and reduce its reliance on manufacturers in the hurricane- said in an interview earlier this year. In a time when so
prone Gulf region of North America. Specialty Polymers, many things feel unpredictable, companies are grabbing
which generated about $112 million in revenue in 2020, whatever control they can. —Sutherland is a columnist
including sales to Sherwin-Williams, has production for Bloomberg Opinion