ACS Industrial Attachment For Final Submission-Submission Date-10 October, 2023

Bangladesh University of Textiles
Report on Industrial Attachment
Internship Duration 1st March 2023 to 7th May 2023
ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd.

Borpa, Rupganj, Narayanganj, Bangladesh
NZ Tex Group
Bhulta, Rupganj, Narayanganj,Bangladesh
Supervised by:
Shilpi Akhter
Assistant Professor, Department of Fabric Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles
Submitted by:
Name ID
Sadiqatul Israa 2018-1-2-001
Sadia Akter Mim 2018-1-2-011
Fijana Hossain 2018-1-2-015
Md. Ariful Islam 2018-1-2-023
Md. Abu Syed 2018-1-2-027
ABSTRACT
The aim of industrial practice is to make us familiar with any kind of industry, the whole
process going on the industry, its environment and also with the management system of the
industry. As a student of Fabric Engineering Department, the target of should be to know the
production process, management system, marketing, production planning, quality assurance,
compliance, mechanical-electrical department etc. It is because of the fact that to run any
industry not only production department is obvious but also the capability of managing the
whole system is an obvious matter. It is also a responsibility of an engineer is to develop the
ongoing process into a better system to cope with the present competition. Thus, a diversified
challenge emerges in front of the manufacturer and other organizations. With a view to
overcome this consequence a new generation of engineering graduates with leadership skills
and management capabilities altogether are in demand.
We the students of Textile Engineering Department were sent to different industries and
assigned to different tasks. We were assigned to ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. and NZ
Tex Group. This report is a presentation of our experience in the Weaving Composite
Factory and overall denim production factory.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The internship opportunity we had with ACS Textile & Towel (BD) Ltd. was a great
chance for learning and professional development. Therefore, we consider ourselves as lucky
as we were provided with an opportunity to be a part of it. While attached to the ACS Textile
& Towel (BD) Ltd. We worked with every area that was involved in Weaving, dyeing,
finished fabric inspection, finishing, R&D and especially we learn lot about weaving. We are
also grateful for having a chance to meet so many wonderful people and professionals who led
us through this internship period.And after completing the training at ACS we got the chance
for doing another training on denim Production at NZ Tex Group
Our heartiest gratitude for our supervising teacher Shilpi Akhter (Professor, Dept. of
Fabric Engineering) & Dr. A T M Faiz Ahmed (Head, Dept. of Fabric
Engineering) and all the members of Fabric Engineering department for their unyielding
support and advice during the period of our internship
We sincerely thank to our teacher A.K.M Ashiqur Rahman (Assistant Professor,

Fabric Engineering Dept.) for giving us the opportunity to perform the industrial
attachment with ACS Textile & Towel (BD) Ltd.
We would like to sincerely thank the managing director of ACS Textile & Towel (BD) Ltd.
Mr. Masood Dawood Akbani. Bearing in mind previous we are using this opportunity to
express our deepest gratitude and special thanks to Md. Humayun Ahmed (Deputy
Manager Of HR, Admin & Compliance), Md. Ekhlas Uddin (Executive, HR & Admin of
Weaving ), Md. Jahangir Alam (Weaving Supervisor) of ACS Textile & Towel (BD) Ltd.
Md. Jalal Uddin (HR manager of NZ Denim ), MD. Motin Ahmed (GM of QC) for
assisting us to gather information about various process.
We perceive as this opportunity as a big milestone in our career development. We will strive
to gain skills in the best possible way and we will continue to work on their improvement in
order to attain desired career objectives .Hope to continue co-operation with all of you in
future.
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Executive Summary
The purpose of industrial training to expose students to real work environment experience and
at the same time to gain the knowledge through hands on observation and job execution
Building a professional mindset benefit greatly from industrial training that is well through out,
well carried out and assessed.
During the two months long internship, we identified different sections and activities of ACS
Textile & Towel (BD) Ltd. we got a crystal clear idea about its organogram, floor layout of
different sections, effect of inhouse environment on production performance, detailed
information of working methodology of each floor like winding, direct and sectional warping,
sizing, weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing, quality check, final inspection, utility, quality
control etc . Also we gained a details knowledge on Towel Production from Product
development to final end product. There is lots of high-tech electrically driven jacquard loom,
Terry loom for towel production. We also got the scope to know about the process loss, waste
minimization and management technique, inventory control management, maintenance of
machineries, commercial and marking approach of the company, working environment,
response of its workforce. Really it was an enjoyable to know about such a great workstation.
We have tried our level best to reflect our learnings through this report.
After that we also got chance to learn about overall denim Production to finishing at NZ tex
Group.As from interest on every topic, we tried to learn every topic in depth. We also learned
in details about the weft yarn construction of denim with fiber composition and the washing
effect on denim with by chemical and stone.
According to our studies in the whole chain of the factory we have prepared the following
report and would like to present our report B.SC in Textile Engineering is the combination of
theoretical knowledge and the practical experiences. By bridging theoretical and practical
knowledge, this program helped us to advance our technical skills.
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List of Content
Abstract…………………………………………………………………………………………….i
Acknowledgement……………………………………………………………………....................ii
Executive Summary……………………………………………………………………………….iii
List of Contents………………………………………………………………………....................iv
List of Tables……………………………………………………………………………………..xix
List of Figures…………………………………………………………………………………….xxi
Chapter 1. Introduction ................................................................................................................... 1
1.1 Background of Internship… .....................................................................................................1
1.2 Company Profile… ................................................................................................................... 2
1.3 Overview of the Organization… ............................................................................................... 4
1.4 Product Mix… ..........................................................................................................................5
1.5 Different Departments… ..........................................................................................................6
1.6 Clients… ................................................................................................................................... 7
1.7 Awards….............................................................................................................................................. 8
1.8 Certificates… ............................................................................................................................ 9
1.9 Factory Layout… .................................................................................................................... 10
Chapter 2. Human Resource & Compliance ................................................................................. 11
2.1 Organogram… ......................................................................................................................... 11
2.2 Shift Change System… ........................................................................................................... 12
2.3 Acquisition… .......................................................................................................................... 12
2.3.1 HR Planning… ................................................................................................................... 12
2.3.2 Recruitment… .................................................................................................................... 12
2.3.2.1 Policies… .....................................................................................................................12
2.3.2.2 Recruitment Committee… ...........................................................................................13
2.3.2.3 Process… ...................................................................................................................... 13
2.3.3 Selection… ......................................................................................................................... 13
2.4 Training and Development… ................................................................................................. 13
2.5 Motivation… ........................................................................................................................... 13
2.5.1 Performance Evaluation… ................................................................................................. 13
2.5.2 Special Facilities…............................................................................................................. 14
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2.6 Maintenance… ........................................................................................................................ 14
2.6.1 Discipline… ....................................................................................................................... 14
2.7 Responsibilities of Production Officer…................................................................................ 14
2.8 Responsibilities of Senior Production Officer… .................................................................... 15
2.9 Compliance… ......................................................................................................................... 15
2.9.1 Working Conditions Policy… .............................................................................................. 15
2.9.2 Special policy for Female Workers… ..................................................................................... 16
2.9.3 Security Policy… ................................................................................................................. 16
2.9.4 Fire Safety Facilities… ........................................................................................................ 17
2.9.5 Facilities of Available pure drinking water… ..................................................................... 17
2.9.6 Welfare Facilities… ............................................................................................................. 17
2.9.6.1 Death Benefit… ................................................................................................................ 17
2.9.6.2 Free Schooling… .............................................................................................................. 18
2.9.6.3 The Day Care Centre… ....................................................................................................18
2.9.7 Precautions & Medical Facilities… ..................................................................................... 19
2.10 Canteen Facilities Chapter… ................................................................................................ 20
Chapter 3:Product Description ...................................................................................................... 21
3.1 Weave Pattern of Products… ................................................................................................... 21
3.1.1 In Tappet Loom… .............................................................................................................. 21
3.1.2 In Dobby Loom… .............................................................................................................. 22
3.1.3 In Jacquard Loom… ..........................................................................................................22
3.2 Color Combinations of Products… ......................................................................................... 23
3.3 Product types Chapter… ......................................................................................................... 23
Chapter 4: Yarn Testing Lab ......................................................................................................... 28
4.1 Introduction… ......................................................................................................................... 28
4.2 Machine Description… ........................................................................................................... 28
4.3 Yarn type… ............................................................................................................................. 31
Chapter 5: Process in Yarn Section ............................................................................................... 33
5.1 Process flow in yarn section… ...............................................................................................33
5.2 Doubling… .............................................................................................................................34
5.2.1 Objective of doubling… ..................................................................................................... 34
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5.2.2 Machine Description… ......................................................................................................34
5.3 Twisting… .............................................................................................................................. 35
5.3.1 Objective of twisting… ...................................................................................................... 35
5.4 Soft winding… ........................................................................................................................ 36
5.4.2 Winding arrangement of SSM TWX-W… ....................................................................... 37
5.4.3 Flowchart of soft winding… .............................................................................................. 38
5.4.4 Production parameter of soft winding section… ............................................................... 38
5.4.5 Soft winding production calculation… ..............................................................................38
5.5 Batching… .............................................................................................................................. 39
5.6 Yarn Dyeing… ........................................................................................................................ 39
5.6.2 Flow Chart of yarn dyeing….............................................................................................. 42
5.7 Hydro Extraction… ................................................................................................................. 43
5.7.1 Machine Description… ...................................................................................................... 43
5.7.2 Hydro Extracting Cycle… ................................................................................................. 43
5.8 RF Dryer… ............................................................................................................................. 43
5.8.2 Water removing Efficiency… ............................................................................................. 44
5.8.3 Production Calculation of RF Dryer… ..............................................................................45
5.9 Hard Winding…...................................................................................................................... 45
5.9.1 Flowchart of Hard Winding… ............................................................................................ 45
5.9.3 Production Parameter of Hard Winding Section… ............................................................ 46
5.9.4 Production Calculation… ................................................................................................... 46
5.9.5 Faults in Winding Section… .............................................................................................. 47
5.9.6 Quality Control in Winding Section Chapter… ................................................................. 48
Chapter 6: Weaving Preparatory Process ...................................................................................... 49
6.1 Warping… .................................................................................................................................... 49
6.1.1 Warping… .............................................................................................................................. 40
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6.1.2 Objective of warping… ................................................................................................... 49
6.1.3 Types of Warping… .............................................................................................................. 49
6.1.3.1 Working Procedure( Direct Warping ). .................................................................... 49
6.1.3.2 Comp. between H-shaped & V-shaped warping… ..................................................... 50
6.1.3.3 Working Procedure (Sectional Warping). ................................................................... 51
6.1.4 Key factors of quality check… ......................................................................................... 52
6.1.5 Warping Faults….............................................................................................................. 52
6.2 Sizing… ................................................................................................................................. 53
6.2.1 Objective of sizing… ........................................................................................................ 53
6.2.2. General recipe practice at ACS… ................................................................................... 53
6.2.3 Temperature Parameter… ................................................................................................ 53
6.2.4. Tank Volume… ..........................................................................................................................54
6.2.5. Equipment for viscosity measurement… ........................................................................ 54
6.2.6. Working Process… .......................................................................................................... 55
6.2.7. Machine Description… ...................................................................................................56
6.2.8. Different sizing Faults and their remedies…................................................................... 57
6.2.9. Sizing chemical used… ................................................................................................... 57
6.2.10 Machine criteria selection…...........................................................................................58
6.2.11 Controlling points of sizing… ........................................................................................ 58
6.2.12 Different types of sizing calculation…........................................................................... 59
6.2.12.1 Sizing Calculation… .............................................................................................. 59
6.2.12.2. Take-up% on basis of different count… ................................................................... 59
Chapter 7. Process in Weaving Unit ............................................................................................. 62
7.1 Weaving… .................................................................................................................................. 62
7.2 Weaving process flowchart… ................................................................................................ 62
7.2.1 Loom plan…................................................................................................................... 63
7.2.2 Drawing… ..................................................................................................................... 64
7.2.3 Denting… ...................................................................................................................... 64
7.2.4 Different elements for drawing and denting… ................................................................. 64
7.2.4.1 Drawing Stand… ........................................................................................................ 65
7.2.4.2 Drop wire… ................................................................................................................ 65
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7.2.4.3 Heald frame… .............................................................................................................. 66
7.2.4.4 Drawing hook… ........................................................................................................... 66
7.2.4.5 Reed knife… ................................................................................................................. 67
7.2.4.6 Reed… .......................................................................................................................... 68
7.2.4.6.1 Reed selection… ........................................................................................................ 68
7.2.4.6.2 Reed count… ............................................................................................................. 69
7.2.5 Knotting… ......................................................................................................................... 69
7.2.6 Leno bobbin winder… ....................................................................................................... 70
7.2.6.1 Bobbin winder for dummy selvedge… ........................................................................ 70
7.2.6.2 Selvedge bobbin winder machine… ............................................................................. 71
7.2.7 Looming… ........................................................................................................................ 71
7.2.8 Beem binder work… ......................................................................................................... 71
7.2.9 Loom specification of weaving floor… ............................................................................72
7.2.9.1 Weaving floor layout… ................................................................................................ 72
7.2.10 Different mechanism of loom…...................................................................................... 79
7.2.10.1 Shedding… ................................................................................................................. 79
7.2.10.1.1 Cam Shedding… ....................................................................................................79
7.2.10.1.2 Electro-magnetic dobby shedding… ...................................................................... 81
7.2.10.1.2.2 Parts of electro-magnetic dobby cam… ............................................................... 82
7.2.10.2 Picking… .................................................................................................................... 83
7.2.10.2.1 Airjet… ................................................................................................................... 83
7.2.10.2.2 Rapier… .................................................................................................................. 84
7.2.10.3 Beat-up… .................................................................................................................... 84
7.2.10.4 Take-up… ........................................................................................................................ 84
7.2.10.5 Let-off… ..................................................................................................................... 85
7.2.10.6 Warp stop motion… .................................................................................................... 86
7.2.10.7 Weft stop motion… ..................................................................................................... 86
7.2.11 Parts of loom… ................................................................................................................. 86
7.2.11.1 Pre-winder… ................................................................................................................ 87
7.2.11.2 Ballon breaker… .......................................................................................................... 88
7.2.11.3 Reed… .........................................................................................................................88
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7.2.11.4 Main nozzle… .............................................................................................................. 89
7.2.11.5 Relay nozzle… ............................................................................................................. 89
7.2.11.6 Main valve…................................................................................................................ 89
7.2.11.7 Sub valve… .................................................................................................................. 89
7.2.11.8 Weft cutter… ................................................................................................................ 90
7.2.11.9. Selvedge cutter… ........................................................................................................ 91
7.2.11.10. Temple… ........................................................................................................................91
7.2.11.11 Brake… ...................................................................................................................... 92
7.2.11.12. ELSY…..................................................................................................................... 92
7.2.11.13 Leno device… ............................................................................................................ 93
7.2.11.14 Loom Indicate… ........................................................................................................ 94
7.2.11.15. Bourdon Pressure gauge… ...................................................................................... 94
7.2.12 Loom efficiency factor… ................................................................................................. 95
7.2.13. Necessary adjustment when quality change… ................................................................95
7.2.14. Steps to control wastage in weaving… ............................................................................ 95
7.3 Terry Towel… .............................................................................................................................. 97
7.4 Basic discussion about terry towel… ...................................................................................... 98
7.4.1 Terry towel… ..................................................................................................................... 98
7.4.2 Classification…................................................................................................................. 98
7.4.3 Basic parameter of terry weaving… .................................................................................. 99
7.4.4 Types of yarn used for Terry weaving…..........................................................................100
7.4.5 Construction… ................................................................................................................. 101
7.5 Terry Weaving…........................................................................................................................ 102
7.5.2. Shedding… .....................................................................................................................103
7.5.3. Picking… ........................................................................................................................ 105
7.5.3.1 Rapier Picking… ......................................................................................................... 105
7.5.3.2 Airjet Picking… .......................................................................................................... 105
7.5.4. Beat-up… ........................................................................................................................ 105
7.5.5.Selvedge formation… ...................................................................................................... 105
7.6 Terry Designing….................................................................................................................106
7.6.1 Shearing Chapter… .......................................................................................................... 106
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Chapter 8: Dyeing preparatory process....................................................................................... 108
8.1 Singeing and Desizing… ...................................................................................................... 108
8.1.1 Key accessories… ........................................................................................................... 108
8.1.2 Material and chemical used… ........................................................................................108
8.1.3 Machine Description… ................................................................................................... 109
8.1.4 Checklist before production… ........................................................................................ 110
8.1.5 Items to be checked… ..................................................................................................... 110
8.1.6 Operation procedure….....................................................................................................110
8.1.7 Product Quality check… ................................................................................................. 111
8.1.8 QC Sample test… ............................................................................................................111
8.2 Scouring and Bleaching… .................................................................................................... 111
8.2.1 Scouring… ...................................................................................................................... 111
8.2.2 Bleaching… .................................................................................................................... 111
8.2.3 Washing… ............................................................................................................................111
8.2.4 Equipment used… ........................................................................................................... 111
8.2.5 Key Accessories… .......................................................................................................... 111
8.2.6 Material/ chemical used… .............................................................................................. 112
8.2.7 Scouring recipe for PC/CVC… .......................................................................................112
8.2.8 Washing recipe… ............................................................................................................ 113
8.2.9 Titration…....................................................................................................................... 113
8.2.9.1 Titration for NaOH… ............................................................................................... 113
8.2.9.2 Titration for H2O2… ................................................................................................. 113
8.2.10. Machine Description… ............................................................................................. 114
8.2.11. Item to be selected….................................................................................................. 114
8.2.12 .Production Quality check… ...................................................................................... 115
8.2.13. Quality control sample test… ................................................................................... 115
8.3 Mercerization… .................................................................................................................... 115
8.3.1 Equipment used… ........................................................................................................... 115
8.3.2 Key Accessories… .......................................................................................................... 116
8.3.3 Materials/Chemicals used… ........................................................................................... 116
8.3.4 Checklist before production… ....................................................................................... 117
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8.3.5 Item to be selected… .......................................................................................................117
8.3.6 Operation Procedure… ................................................................................................... 117
Chapter 9: Process in Dyeing Unit…...........................................................................................119
9.1 Reactive dyeing… ................................................................................................................. 119
9.1.1 Cold Pad Batch or CPB process…...................................................................................119
9.1.2 Material/Chemical used… .............................................................................................. 119
9.1.3 Sample guide of recipe…................................................................................................ 120
9.1.4 Operation procedure….................................................................................................... 120
9.1.5 Preparation of dyeing liquor… ....................................................................................... 120
9.1.6 Preparation of alkali… .................................................................................................... 121
9.2 Disperse dyeing… ................................................................................................................. 122
9.2.1 Pad Dry Bake or PDB Process… .................................................................................... 122
9.2.2. Material/Chemical used… .............................................................................................. 122
9.2.3. Sample guide of recipe…............................................................................................... 123
9.2.4. Carbonization… ............................................................................................................. 123
9.2.5. Operation Procedure… .................................................................................................. 123
9.3 One Bath Dyeing Process… ................................................................................................. 123
9.3.1 One bath solid dyeing process (Disperse/Reactive)........................................................ 123
9.3.4.Operation procedure….................................................................................................... 125
9.3.6. Product quality check… .................................................................................................. 127
9.3.6.1. Cosmetic Defect… .................................................................................................... 127
9.3.6.2. Shade checking… ...................................................................................................... 127
9.4 Pigment dyeing… ................................................................................................................. 127
9.4.1 Solid dyeing with pigment… .......................................................................................... 128
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9.4.6.1. Cosmetic defect… ..................................................................................................... 129
9.4.6.2. Shade checking… ...................................................................................................... 129
9.5 Dyeing process in Pad-steam Machine… ............................................................................. 130
9.5.2 Preparation of chemical for development process. ......................................................... 130
Chapter10:Process in Printing Section........................................................................................ 131
10.1 Rotary Printing… ................................................................................................................ 131
10.1.1 Machine description… .................................................................................................. 132
10.1.2 Uses of Chemicals…..................................................................................................... 133
10.1.3 Process flow of rotary printing… .................................................................................134
10.1.4 Print paste application on fabric… ...............................................................................135
10.2 Flatbed Printing… ............................................................................................................... 135
10.2.1 Working Procedure… ...................................................................................................135
10.2.2 When flatbed printing is used… ................................................................................... 136
10.2.3 Machine Description… ................................................................................................. 136
10.2.4 Repeat sizes & no. of colors required… ....................................................................... 137
10.2.5 Process flow of flatbed printing… ................................................................................ 138
10.2.6 Print paste application on fabric… ...............................................................................138
10.3 Digital Printing…................................................................................................................ 138
10.3.1 How it works… ............................................................................................................. 139
10.3.2 When digital printing is used… .................................................................................... 139
10.3.3 Machine description… .................................................................................................. 140
10.3.4 Process flow of digital printing & process description… ............................................. 140
10.3.5 Advantage of digital printing… .................................................................................... 141
10.4 Color fixation… .................................................................................................................. 142
10.5 Curing… .............................................................................................................................143
10.6 Washing & drying… ........................................................................................................... 143
10.7 Process flow chart for reactive and pigment printing… ..................................................... 143
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Chapter 11: Finishing .................................................................................................................. 144
11.1 Introduction… ..................................................................................................................... 144
11.2 Finishing in Stenter Machine… .......................................................................................... 145
11.2.1 Stenter… ....................................................................................................................... 145
11.2.2 Refinishing and Topping… ............................................................................................... 147
11.2.2.1 Materials and Chemicals used…............................................................................. 148
11.2.2.2 Easy Care Process… ............................................................................................... 149
11.2.2.3 Safety… ..................................................................................................................149
11.2.2.4 Operation Procedure… ...........................................................................................150
11.2.2.5 Operation for white fabric finishing (soft). ............................................................. 150
11.2.2.6 Operation for colored fabric finishing (soft). .......................................................... 150
11.2.2.7 Operation for colored fabric finishing (wrinkle free). ............................................150
11.2.2.8 Production Quality Check… ................................................................................... 150
11.2.2.9 Fault Check… ......................................................................................................... 150
11.2.2.10 Width check… ......................................................................................................150
11.2.2.11 QC sample test… ..................................................................................................151
11.2.3 Heat setting and Stretching in Stenter… ....................................................................... 152
11.2.3.1 Production procedure… .......................................................................................... 152
11.2.3.2 Checklist before production… ................................................................................ 153
11.2.3.3 Operation procedure… ............................................................................................ 153
11.3 Finishing in Sanforizing Machine… ................................................................................... 156
11.3.1 Sanforizing… ................................................................................................................ 156
11.3.2 Process Requirement… ................................................................................................. 156
11.3.3 Production procedure… ................................................................................................ 157
11.3.3.1 Operation Staff… .................................................................................................... 157
11.3.3.2 Machine Setup…..................................................................................................... 158
11.3.3.3 Operation Procedure… ...........................................................................................158
11.3.3.5 Fault check… .......................................................................................................... 159
11.3.3.6 Width Check… ....................................................................................................... 159
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11.4 Finishing in Calendering Machine… .................................................................................. 160
11.4.1 Process Requirement… ................................................................................................. 160
11.4.2 Production Procedure… ................................................................................................ 160
11.4.2.1 Operation Staff… .....................................................................................................161
11.4.2.2 Machine setup… ....................................................................................................... 162
11.4.2.3 Checklist before production…..................................................................................163
11.4.2.4 Operation Procedure… ............................................................................................. 163
11.4.2.5 Fault check… ............................................................................................................ 163
11.4.2.6 Width check… .......................................................................................................... 163
11.4.2.7 Design check for yarn dyed fabric… ........................................................................ 163
11.4.2.8 QC sample test… ...................................................................................................... 163
11.4.2.9 Response to Equipment fault in Finishing… ............................................................ 163
Chapter 12: Production Planning & Product Development ........................................................ 164
12.1 Production Planning… ........................................................................................................ 164
12.2 Flow chart of Product Development… ............................................................................... 165
Chapter 13:R&D Department ..................................................................................................... 167
13.1 Introduction… ..................................................................................................................... 167
13.2 Flow process of R&D department… .................................................................................. 167
13.3 Analysis…........................................................................................................................... 168
13.4 Testing… .................................................................................................................................. 168
13.4.1 Fabric parameter check… .............................................................................................. 169
13.4.1.1 Physical Test… .................................................................................................................. 169
13.4.1.2 Chemical Test… ................................................................................................................ 169
13.4.1.3 Wash Test… ........................................................................................................................170
13.4.2 Dyeing Parameter check… ............................................................................................ 171
13.4.2.1 Flow process for dyeing parameter check… ............................................................ 172
13.4.2.2 Procedure Analysis… ............................................................................................... 173
Chapter 14. Quality Assurance… ............................................................................................... 178
14.1 1st meter check offline… ................................................................................................... 178
14.2 Loom run/ Fabric production… ......................................................................................... 179
14.3 Fabric Check (online QC). ................................................................................................. 180
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14.4 Doffing for dispatching to inspection… ............................................................................. 180
14.5 Grey Fabric Inspection… .................................................................................................... 180
14.6 Fabric Inspection and Mending… ......................................................................................180
14.6.1 Fabric inspection… ........................................................................................................ 181
14.6.1.1 Important notice… .................................................................................................... 181
14.6.2 Fabric mending… .......................................................................................................... 182
14.6.2.1 Instruction… ............................................................................................................. 182
14.6.3 Fabric faults… ...............................................................................................................182
14.6.4. Visual Inspection & Grading… ....................................................................................183
14.6.5 Causes & Remedies of Fabric fault… ...........................................................................183
14.6.6 .Four point system… ...................................................................................................... 184
14.6.7 Classification of Inspection fabric… ............................................................................. 184
Chapter 15: Maintenance ............................................................................................................ 185
15.1 Maintenance… .................................................................................................................... 185
15.2 Object of maintenance… .................................................................................................... 185
15.3 Types of Maintenance… ..................................................................................................... 185
15.4.1 Period of Maintenance… .............................................................................................. 186
15.4.2 Manpower per each shed are works… .......................................................................... 186
15.4.3. Maintaining parts… ...................................................................................................... 187
15.4.4. Available maintaining tools… ..................................................................................... 187
15.4.5 For oiling & greasing… ................................................................................................ 188
15.4.6 For replacement… ........................................................................................................188
15.5 Daily Inspection… .............................................................................................................. 189
15.5.1 Weekly Inspection… ..................................................................................................... 190
15.5.2 Every 3 month Inspection… ......................................................................................... 191
15.5.3 Every 6 month Inspection… ......................................................................................... 191
15.6 Lubrication… ...................................................................................................................... 191
15.6.1 Position and required amount… ................................................................................... 192
15.6.2 Recommended oil… ..................................................................................................... 193
15.6.3 Lubrication point… ....................................................................................................... 193
15.6.4 Recommended Lubrications… ..................................................................................... 194
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15.6.5 Tools and their Functions… ........................................................................................... 194
15.7 Maintenance of Loom… ..................................................................................................... 194
15.7.1 Inspection and Maintenance after Weaving… ................................................................. 194
Chapter 16: Utility Service ......................................................................................................... 195
16.1 Introduction… ..................................................................................................................... 195
16.2 Sources of Utility… ............................................................................................................ 195
16.3 Chiller… .............................................................................................................................195
16.3.1 Specifications (Vapor Absorption Chiller)................................................................... 196
16.3.2 Specifications (Cooling Tower). ...................................................................................... 197
16.3.3 Chilled water process flow…........................................................................................ 197
16.4 A/C Plant…......................................................................................................................... 197
16.4.1 Air Conditioning System… .......................................................................................... 198
16.4.2 Air Conditioning process flowchart… .......................................................................... 198
16.4.3 Specification AC Plant… .............................................................................................. 199
16.5 Air Compressor… ............................................................................................................... 199
16.5.1 Specification of Air Compressor… ..............................................................................200
16.5.2 Air Pressure distributed at different section….............................................................. 201
16.6 Water… .......................................................................................................................................... 201
16.6.1 Water Consumption…...................................................................................................201
16.6.2 Water Treatment Plant… .............................................................................................. 202
16.6.3 Flow Diagram of WTP….............................................................................................. 203
16.6.4 Steam…......................................................................................................................... 204
16.7 ETP… .................................................................................................................................204
16.7.1. Objective… .................................................................................................................. 205
16.7.2.Schematic Diagram of ETP… ......................................................................................205
16.7.3 Major dyehouse Effluent contamination… ................................................................... 205
16.7.4 Types of ETP… ............................................................................................................. 206
16.7.5. Pictures of different sections of ETP… ....................................................................... 207
16.8. Generator & Boiler… ........................................................................................................208
16.9. Electric Energy Distribution… .......................................................................................... 208
16.10 Boiler…............................................................................................................................. 209
xvi
16.10.1 Specification of Boiler… ............................................................................................ 209
16.10.2 Steam distribution at different section… .................................................................... 209
Chapter 17: Store & Inventory Control ......................................................................................210
17.1. Inventory System for raw material… ................................................................................210
17.2. Scope of inventory control… ............................................................................................. 211
17.2.1 Inventory system for raw material… ............................................................................ 211
17.2.2 Stages of grey fabric inventory control… ..................................................................... 211
17.2.3 Stages of finished fabric inventory control… ............................................................... 211
17.3 Remarks… .......................................................................................................................... 211
Chapter 18:Marketing & Merchandising .................................................................................... 212
18.1 Merchandising team… ................................................................................... …………..212
18.1.1 Development Stage… ................................................................................................... 212
18.1.2 Follow-up stage of bulk production… .......................................................................... 212
18.2 Production book… .............................................................................................................. 212
18.2.1 Product book upload… ................................................................................................. 212
18.2.2 File download from FTP… ........................................................................................... 212
18.2.3 File distributed to concerned department… .................................................................. 213
18.2.4 Mail to sample department…........................................................................................ 213
18.2.5 Mail to production…..................................................................................................... 213
18.2.6 Mail to IE Department… .............................................................................................. 213
18.2.7 Mail to CAD for Bulk Marker… .................................................................................. 213
18.2.8PP List make and mail to sample development… ......................................................... 214
18.2.9 Sample fabric booking… .............................................................................................. 215
18.2.10 LD Requisition send to lab… .....................................................................................215
18.3 Marker consumption… ....................................................................................................... 216
18.4 HC receive… ......................................................................................................................216
18.5 Fabric booking… ................................................................................................................ 217
18.5.1 Fabric booking(import). ................................................................................................ 217
18.5.2 Purchase Order receive… ............................................................................................. 217
18.5.3 Fabric booking (local buyer). ....................................................................................... 218
18.5.4 Care label booking… .................................................................................................... 218
xvii
18.5.5 Sewing thread & other trim booking… ........................................................................218
18.5.6 PI of raw materials… .................................................................................................... 219
18.5.6.1 Process of receiving PI…........................................................................................ 219
18.5.6.2 Mail to MCD to prepare TrimCard… ..................................................................... 219
18.5.7.1 Summary sheet preparation…................................................................................. 220
18.5.7.2 Analysis Meeting/PP Risk meeting… ....................................................................221
18.6 Initial lot Approval Sub-plan… ......................................................................................... 221
18.6.1 Weekly dye lot Sub-plan… ........................................................................................... 222
18.7 PCD(plan cut date). ............................................................................................................. 222
18.7.1 Production follow-up… ................................................................................................ 222
18.7.2 Cutting….......................................................................................................................223
18.7.3 Sewing…....................................................................................................................... 223
18.7.4 Final QC Schedule Informing… ................................................................................... 223
18.7.5 Ex-factory of order… .................................................................................................... 223
18.7.6 Cost Analysis… ............................................................................................................ 224
18.7.7 Costing of Production Includes… ................................................................................. 224
18.8 Marketing… ........................................................................................................................ 224
18.8.1 Fabric Marketing Process… .........................................................................................224
18.8.2 Responsibility of Marketing Officer… ......................................................................... 224
18.8.3 Some pictures of Home design Studio… ...................................................................... 224
Chapter 19:Sustainability ........................................................................................................... 226
Chapter 20: Process in NZ Denim Ltd ....................................................................................... 229
20.1 Process flow in NZ denim…............................................................................................... 229
20.2 Machine description… ........................................................................................................ 229
20.3 Process description….......................................................................................................... 230
20.4 Quality Control in NZ denim… .......................................................................................... 236
Chapter 21: Conclusion............................................................................................................... 240
xviii
List of Table
Table 3.3.1. Product types of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd… ......................................................... 5
Table 5.9.6.1. Faults in winding section… .....................................................................................6
Table 6.1.3.2.1. Warping m/c… ...................................................................................................... 7
Table 6.2.3.1. Recipe of sizing… .................................................................................................... 9
Table 6.2.4.1. Standard temp. For sizing… ..................................................................................10
Table 6.1.5.1. Tank volume… ....................................................................................................... 12
Table 6.2.12..2.1. Cover Factor in different Machines… ............................................................. 14
Table 6.2.12..3.1. Take-up% on different yarn count… ................................................................ 17
Table 6.2.12.4.1. Size Take-up% in different m/c… ..................................................................... 19
Table 7.2.9.1.1. Loom specification of weaving floor… .............................................................. 20
Table 7.4.2.1. Classification of Terry Towel… .................................................................................40
Table 7.4.4.1. Types of yarn for terry weaving… ......................................................................... 43
Table 7.4.4.2. Properties of cotton fiber….................................................................................... 45
Table 8.1.6.1. Machine speed for different fabric… ..................................................................... 49
Table 8.2.7.1. Scouring recipe…...................................................................................................50
Table 8.3.3.1. List of chemicals… ................................................................................................ 52
Table 8.3.4.1. Technical parameters….......................................................................................... 55
Table 8.3.5.1. Standard m/c speed… ............................................................................................ 58
Table 10.1.2.1. Uses of chemicals… ............................................................................................ 60
Table 10.1.4.1. Print paste application process on fabric… .......................................................... 62
Table 10.2.4.1. Repeat size & no. of colors required… ................................................................ 64
Table 10..4.1. Color fixation temperature,time & pressure for different printing methods… ...... 68
Table 11.2.2.1. Material and Chemicals used in stenter m/c…..................................................... 70
Table 11.2.3.1. Machine setup for TC fabric in stenter m/c…...................................................... 74
Table 11.2.3.2. Machine setup for checklist before production… ................................................ 76
Table 11.3.3.2. Machine setup for Cotton and CVC fabric… ...................................................... 78
Table 11.4.3.2. Machine setup for TC and Twill fabric… ............................................................ 80
Table 11.4.2.3. Checklist before production… ............................................................................. 84
Table 11.4.2.9. Response to equipment fault in finishing… ......................................................... 85
xix
Table 13.4.1.1.1. Physical test… ................................................................................................... 88
Table13.4.1.2.1. Chemical test….................................................................................................. 90
Table 13.4.2.2.6. Color Fastness check… ..................................................................................... 92
Table 14.2.5.1. Fabric faults causes & remedies… ....................................................................... 94
Table 14.2.6.1. 4 point system… ..................................................................................................96
Table 15.1.1. Period of Maintenance… ........................................................................................ 98
Table 15.4.3.1. Available Maintaining Tools… ............................................................................. 140
Table 15.6.1. Lubrication position and required amount… ........................................................ 145
Table 15.6.2. Recommended oil…..............................................................................................146
Table 15.6.3. Lubrication points… ............................................................................................. 148
Table 15.6.4. Recommended Lubricants… ................................................................................. 150
Table 15.6.5. Tools and Their functions… .................................................................................. 155
Table 15.7.1. Inspection and Maintenance after weaving… ....................................................... 166
Table 15.7.2.1. Every Six Month Inspection and Maintenance… .............................................. 167
Table 15.7.3.1. Yearly Inspection and Maintenance… ............................................................... 170
Table 16.3.1.2. Specifications of vapor Absorption Chiller…....................................................178
Table 16.3.1.3. Specifications of Cooling tower… .................................................................... 180
Table 16.4.3. Specification of A/C Plant… ................................................................................188
Table 16.5.1. Specifications of Air compressor… ...................................................................... 190
Table 16.6.1. Water Consumption… ........................................................................................... 192
Table 16. 6.2.1. Water Treatment plant( WTP). .......................................................................... 195
Table 16.7.5.1. ETP in ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd… ............................................................ 202
Table 16.9.2.1. Electric Energy Distribution… ..........................................................................205
Table 16.9.5.1. Specifications of Boiler… .................................................................................. 208
Table 20.2.1. Machine Description… ......................................................................................... 224
xx
List of Figure
Fig.1.2.1.Location of ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd… .................................................................. 2

Fig.1.3.1. ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd… ..................................................................................... 3
Fig.1.4.1. Product Mix… ................................................................................................................ 3
Fig. 1.5.1.Different department in ACS… ...................................................................................... 4
Fig.1.6.1.Clients of ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd… ..................................................................... 4
Fig.1.7.1. Awards… .................................................................................................................................. 5
Fig.1.8.1. Certificates of ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd… ............................................................. 6
Fig.1.9.1.Factory Layout Plan…..................................................................................................... 7
Fig.2.1.1. Organogram… .............................................................................................................. 10
Fig.2.9.4.1.Fire Control Equipments… ........................................................................................12
Fig.2.9.4.2.Assembly Area of workers… ..................................................................................... 15
Fig.2.9.5.1.Supply of pure drinking water… ................................................................................ 15
Fig.2.9.6.2.1. Free Schooling… .................................................................................................... 16
Fig.2.9.6.3.1. The Daily Care Centre… ........................................................................................ 17
Fig.2.10.1.Canteen of ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd…................................................................ 18
Fig.3.1.3.1. Jacquard Pattern… ..................................................................................................... 19
Fig.3.2.1. Color Combination of Products… ................................................................................ 20
Fig.4.2.1.Twist Tester… ..................................................................................................................... 23
Fig.4.2.2.Strength Tester… ................................................................................................................ 24
Fig.4.2.3.Warpreel… .................................................................................................................... 25
Fig.4.2.4Broad winder….............................................................................................................. 26
Fig.4.2.5.Yarn Appearance…...................................................................................................... 27
Fig.4.3.1. Flowchart of Open End Yarn Production Process… .................................................... 28
Fig.4.3.2.Flow Chart of Carded and Combed Yarn Production… ................................................ 30
Fig.5.1.1. Process Flow in yarn section… .................................................................................... 33
Fig.5.2.2.1. Doubling M/C… ....................................................................................................... 34
Fig.5.3.2.1.Twisting M/C…......................................................................................................... 35
Fig.5.4.1.Soft Winding tube (paper tube to Plastic tube). ............................................................. 36
Fig.5.4.1.1. Soft Winding m/c… ................................................................................................... 37
xxi
Fig.5.4.3.1. Flow chart of soft winding process…........................................................................ 38
Fig.5.6.1.Grey yarn to Dyed Yarn…......................................................................................................40
Fig.5.6.1.1. Yarn Dyeing m/c… ................................................................................................... 41
Fig.5.6.2.1. Flow Chart of Yarn dyeing… .................................................................................... 42
Fig.5.7.1.1. Hydro Extractor… ..................................................................................................... 43
Fig.5.8.1.1. RF Dryer… ................................................................................................................ 45
Fig.5.9.1.1. Flowchart of hard winding… ....................................................................................46
Fig.5.9.2.1. Hard Winding m/c… ................................................................................................ 47
Fig. 6.1.3.1.1. Direct Warping Machine….................................................................................... 48
Fig.6.1.3.3.1.Sectionalrping machine… ....................................................................................... 49
Fig 6.2.5.1.Viscosity measuring cup… ......................................................................................... 50
Fig 6.2.5.2.Refractometer… ......................................................................................................... 51

Fig: 6.2.6.1.Sizing machine… ...................................................................................................... 52
Fig.6.2.9.1. Mixing Tank….................................................................................................................... 52
Fig.6.2.9.2. CoolingTank… ..........................................................................................................53
Fig: 6.2.11.1. Leasing road… .......................................................................................................55
Fig.7.2.2.1. Drawing in through drop wire and heald eye… ........................................................ 57
Fig.7.2.3.1. Denting Process… ..................................................................................................... 60
Fig.7.2.4.1.1.Drawing Stand… ..................................................................................................... 63
Fig.7.2.4.2.1. Drop wire… ............................................................................................................ 65
Fig.7.2.4.3.1. Types of heald wire… ............................................................................................ 66
Fig.7.2.4.4.1. Drawing Hook… .................................................................................................... 68
Fig.7.2.4.5.1. Reed Knife… .......................................................................................................... 70
Fig.7.2.4.6.1.Types of Reed… ...................................................................................................... 72
Fig.7.2.5.1. Knotting Machine… .................................................................................................. 74
Fig.7.2.6.1. Leno Bobbin Winder… ............................................................................................. 75
Fig.7.2.6.1.1.Bobbin Winder Machine… ..................................................................................... 78
Fig.7.2.6.2.1.Selvedge Bobbin Winder… ..................................................................................... 79
Fig.7.2.9.1.1. Weaving-1 Lay Out… ............................................................................................88
Fig.7.2.9.1.2. Picanol OMNI Plus Summum… ............................................................................ 90
Fig.7.2.9.1.3. Picanol OMNI Plus 800… ...................................................................................... 92
xxii
Fig.7.2.9.1.4. Picanol Optimex-I…............................................................................................... 94
Fig.7.2.9.1.5. Tsudakama Dobby… .............................................................................................. 95
Fig.7.2.10.1.1.1. Cam Shedding…................................................................................................96
Fig.7.2.10.1.1.2. Cam Design… ................................................................................................... 98
Fig.7.2.10.1.2.1. Electromagnetic dobby cam… ........................................................................ 100
Fig.7.2.10.2.1.1. Weft Insertion by Air Jet Loom… ................................................................... 102
Fig.7.2.10.2.2.1. Gripper… ......................................................................................................... 105
Fig.7.2.10.2.2.2. Receiver… ....................................................................................................... 107
Fig.7.2.11.9.1. Selvedge Cutter…............................................................................................... 125
Fig.7.2.11.10.1.Temple… ...........................................................................................................126
Fig.7.2.11.11.1.Brake… .............................................................................................................. 127
Fig.7.2.11.12.1.ELSY Device… ................................................................................................. 129
Fig.7.2.11.12.2. Selvedge Design… ........................................................................................... 130
Fig.7.2.11.13.1. Leno Device… .................................................................................................. 132
Fig.7.2.11.14.1. Signal Light… ..................................................................................................134
Fig.7.2.11.15.1. Bourdon Pressure Gauge… .............................................................................. 136
Fig.7.3.1. Weaving -3 Layout… .................................................................................................138
Fig.7.4.5.1. Construction of Terry Towel… ....................................................................................140
Fig.7.5.1. Warp beams of Terry Weaving Loom…..................................................................... 145
Fig.7.5.2.1. Dornier Dobby shedding Mechanism… .................................................................. 148
Fig.7.5.2.2. Summum Jacquard shedding mechanism… ............................................................ 149
Fig.7.5.2.3. Staubli Control Panel… ........................................................................................... 152
Fig 8.1.3 Singeing and desizing machine…............................................................................... 155
Fig 8.2.10 Scouring and bleaching machine… ........................................................................... 158
Fig 8.3.1.1 MercFerizing machine… .......................................................................................... 160
Fig:9.1.6.1. Exhaust dyeing machine… ...................................................................................... 162
Fig 9.3.4.1 Sample exhaust dyeing machine…........................................................................... 165
Fig 9.5.1.1 Chemical pad steam machine… ............................................................................... 167
Fig.10.1.1. Cross sectional diagram of rotary screen printing… ................................................ 168
Fig.10.1.1.1. Rotary Printing machine 170 Fig.10. 1.3.1. Process Flow of rotary printing….... 172
xxiii
Fig.10.1.4.2. Print paste application on fabric in rotary printing… ............................................ 173
Fig.10.2.3.1. Flatbed Printing m/c… .......................................................................................... 175
Fig.10.2.5.1. Process flow of flatbed printing…......................................................................... 178
Fig.10.2.6.1. Print paste application using flatbed screen… ......................................................180
Fig.10.3,1,1, working process of digital printing… .................................................................... 182
Fig.10.3.3.1. Printing m/c( MS JPK EVO). ................................................................................ 185
Fig.10.3.3.2. Digital Printing (MS POWER –D). ....................................................................... 188
Fig.10.3.4.1. Process flow of digital printing method… ............................................................190
Fig.10.6.1. Washing and Drying… ............................................................................................. 195
Fig.10.7.1. Process flowchart for reactive and pigment printing… ............................................ 198
Fig.13.4.2.1. Flow process for Dyeing parameter check… ........................................................ 200

Fig.13.4.2.2.1. Swatch / Pantone code analysis… ...................................................................... 202
Fig.13.4.2.2.2. Auto Dispenser… .............................................................................................. 203
Fig.13.4.2.2.3. Auto Mixer… .....................................................................................................204
Fig.13.4.2.2.4. Datacolor Ahiba IR… ........................................................................................ 205
Fig.13.4.2.2.5. Washing…............................................................................................................... 208
Fig.14.6.3.1. Fabric Faults… ...................................................................................................... 210
Fig.16.3.1.1. Vapor Absorption Chiller And Cooling Tower… .................................................... 212
Fig.16.3.3.1. Cycle of Chilled Water… .............................................................................................. 214
Fig 16.4.1.1. Air Conditioning system….................................................................................... 215
Fig.16.5. Air compressor Flow in ACS Textiles & Towels BD Ltd… ....................................... 216
Fig 16.6.3.1. WTP… ............................................................................................................ …217
Fig.16.7.1. ETP… ....................................................................................................................... 218
Fig.16. 7.2.1. Schematic Diagram of Effluent Treatment Plant… ............................................. 219
Fig 16.7.5.1. Outlet tank… ......................................................................................................... 220
Fig. 16. 7.5.2. Processing Tank… ....................................................................................................... 221
Fig.16. 8.1. Control Panel of Generator… .................................................................................. 222
Fig.16.10.1. Boiler… .................................................................................................................. 223
Fig .18.8.3. Some pictures of Home Design Studio…............................................................... 224
Fig .19.1.1. ACS TEXTILES AND TOWELS LTD… ....................................................................... 225
Fig.19.1.2. Mission statement board of ACS TEXTILES LTD… .................................................... 226
xxiv
Fig.19.1.3. ACS Textiles BD Ltd Solar Panel… ........................................................................ 227
Fig.19.1.4. Exhaust heat changer… ............................................................................................ 228
Fig.19.1.5. Caustic Recovery plant of ACS TEXTILES LTD…....................................................... 229
Fig.20.1.1. Process flow in NZ Denim… ................................................................................... 232
xxv
1
Chapter 1: Introduction
1.1 Background of Internship
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering is not only based on theoretical knowledge,but also practical
experience with technical knowledge. A combination of these makes us invincible in work and
competent in this competitive textile job sector. Adequate practical experience and technical
knowledge is essential to face the challenge as well as competition of today and future in the textile
world.For that reason,an internship program of two months in a textile industry is obligatory and
preparing attachment of this industry is considered as an academic course. ACS Textiles & Towels
Ltd. gave us an opportunity to enroll for an internship in their industry; which was a great way of
gaining knowledge about this sector.
Specific Objectives:
● To enlarge the dimension of knowledge regarding fabric manufacturing as well as others.

● To define and evaluate the performance of the fabric manufacturing Department as well
as others.
● To observe the effectiveness of fabric manufacturing as well as others.
● To get the additional knowledge in different sections of the organization.
● To know the economic condition of Bangladesh through ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.of
Bangladesh.
● To identify the difference between theory and practice.
● To compare the improvement of the present condition of the ACS Textiles& Towels
Ltd. with the previous years.
● To mention the problems that the industry face in production and
delivery of garments & give some suggestions.
● To identify the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the industry.
● To cope up with the industrial working atmosphere and environment.
● To gain practical knowledge and experience that endorse, certify and clarify the
theoretical concept obtained from books and class lectures.
● To orient ourselves with the organizational hierarchy, management system and
interaction with officials that will be necessary for the future.
Above all, this industrial training gives us the entire and overall idea, knowledge and concept of
fabric manufacturing, testing, dyeing, printing and finishing etc. which are the prime concerns of
any textile industry.
2
1.2 Company Profile
▪ Name of the project : ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.
▪ Company logo :
▪ Type of industry : 100% export oriented woven home textiles
▪ Company’s motto : “Make continuous effort to offer our customers

quality products and effective services and realize
the principle of customer first, service is ultimate.”
▪ Year of Establishment : 2004,13th april
▪ Monthly meters of production : 3 millions
▪ Production capacity :1,05,000 meters per day
▪ No. of Employees : Approx. 6000
▪ Location :
Fig.1.2.1: Location of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd

3
▪ Address : Tetlabo,Rupgonj, Narayanganj, Bangladesh
▪ E-mail : acsinfo@acstextiles.com
▪ Web : www.acstextiles.com
▪ Legal status of company : Limited company
▪ Sponsor Banks : 1) Southeast Bank

Dilkusha commercial area,Dhaka-1000
2) Dutch Bangla Bank
Motijheel commercial area, Dhaka-1000
3) Bank Al-Falah Ltd.
Rajuk Avenue Motijheel commercial area,
Dhaka-1000
▪ Insurance : American Life Insurance Company

ALICO Building, 18-20 motijheel C/A P.O. Box
9, Dhaka-1000
Tel: +880-2-9561791, +880-2-7160025

Fax: +880-2-9558682
E-mail: american.life@alicobd.com
▪ Total land area : 5,50,000 square feet
▪ Membership : 1) Bangladesh Textile Mills

Association(BTMA) Membership no. 0002-
0179-0401
2) Export Promotion Bureau
(EPB) Enrolment no. TM12
3) Narayanganj Chamber Of Commerce &

Industry
Registration no. 465 of book 5
4) Foreign Investors chamber of commerce &
Industry
Registration no. 122 of book 2
4
▪ Valid Licenses and Certificates: Factory license

Fire license
Boiler license
Trade license
Export-Import license
Environmental clearance license
Income tax certificates
Group insurance certificate
1.3 Overview of the Organization
ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd., a name emblematic of trust and superior quality in Home Textiles
is a 100% British investment. As a state-of-the-art, composite manufacturing facility, with weaving,
dyeing, printing, finishing, and packaging services, all offered under a single expansive roof, ACS
stands as one of the largest of its kind in the industry.
ACS Textiles is a quality conscious company, reliant on ethically sound, internationally
recognized policies. They produce top quality bedding and linen sheets ranging from 200-400
thread count percale sheets. Featuring also, high quality satin and duvets with Egyptian and
organic cotton.
It is a trailblazer in the textile industry, whether it be seer sucker fabrics, jacquard or intricate
embroidery, their facilities are equipped to produce the most innovative textiles of all times.
Staying true to their name in quality and innovation, ACS offers a
wide-range of towel products.
The products have found the market in European countries, such as Italy, France, and the UK.
Their influence reaches the markets of Scandinavian Europe with a design studio in Sweden. 2008
saw ACS expanding its export clientele to include Australia and North America.
Fig.1.3.1: ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.

5
ACS Textiles (Bangladesh) Ltd. is committed to make a difference in the home textile
sector of Bangladesh. It is not a mere factory for production; it is an institution that offers better
service conditions, observing all Bangladesh government directives. They not only produce
quality products,but also help their workforce to become quality professionals. They understand
their people and their needs. ACS Textile aspires to remain a model in our home textile sector.
1.4 Product Mix
Fig.1.4.1: Product Mix

6
1.5 Different Departments
Fig 1.5.1: Different departments in ACS
Among them the production department is the main power house, where labors and materials
are utilized to develop products. It is basically consists of various units-
● Weaving preparatory & design
● Lab
● Weaving section
● Dyeing & printing
● Terry towel weaving
● Finishing
7
1.6 Clients
8
Fig.1.6.1: Clients of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.
1.7 Awards
ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd. has tremendous success in the home textiles manufacturing sector,
which has made this an unique manufacturer, because most of these industries are based on apparels
in Bangladesh.Moreover, they are exclusive in their position,so ACS has a great impact on our
national economy & that’s why this industry has been awarded many times. ACS was also awarded
internationally for their eco-friendly practice in textiles.
This industry was awarded ‘National Export Trophy’ three times, ‘SIWI’ or Stockholm Water Prize
for two times as well as ‘RMG Times Best Practice Award’ once.
(1) National Export Trophy (2) SIWI Award (3) RMG Times
Best Practice Award
Fig.1.7.1: Awards
9
1.8 Certificates
▪ BSCI global standard (for client: V&D &lidi):The ‘Business Social Compliance
Initiative’ (BSCI) is an industry-driven movement that aims to monitor and assess
workplace standards across the global supply chain. Aamfori BSCI audit helps a business
monitors its supply chain to ensure that all suppliers are treating workers ethically and legally.
▪ BRC global standard- consumer product (Certificate no. GB08/75996): The Global
Standard for Consumer Products is designed for global specifiers, retailers and
manufacturers of non-food raw materials and finished products.
▪ Control union certification -GOTS (Certificate no.C810124GOTS-01.2008):

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has a clearly defined set of criteria and is
transparent. GOTS is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibers,
including ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire
textile supply chain.
▪ OEKO-TEX standard 100 (Test no.07 KA.56878):STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®

certified products have been tested for harmful substances to protect your health and tested for
Toxic Chemicals. This label certifies that every component of the product, from the fabric to the
thread and accessories, has been rigorously tested against a list of up to 350 toxic chemicals.
▪ ISO certification (in the pipeline)
▪ SA-8000 certification (in the pipeline):The SA8000 Standard is an auditable certification

standard that encourages organizations to develop, maintain, and apply socially acceptable
practices in the workplace.
Fig.1.8.1: Certificates of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.

10
1.9 Factory Layout
Fig.1.9.1: Factory Layout

11
Chapter 2: Human Resource & Compliance
2.1 Organogram
Fig.2.1.1: Organogram
12
2.2 Shift Change System
Per shift is 8 hours.
▪ 1st Shift : 6:00 A.M - 2:00 P.M
▪ 2nd Shift: 2:00 P.M - 10:00 P.M
▪ 3rd Shift : 10:00 P.M - 6:00A.M
General Shift: 9:00 A.M - 6:00 P.M
One hour break time obtained by every worker and officer. Generally, Shift change depends
on the Work order and target production. An experienced supervisor is appointed in every shift
who monitors the working activities & maintains the previous flow of production. To continue
the chain of production, the acting supervisor should take important briefs from the prior
supervisor during shift change.
2.3 Acquisition
2.3.1 HR Planning
• Manage time for interviews and the selection process

• Manages cost regarding recruitment and selection process
• Checks background of the selected candidate
• Select CV from the applications and call them for interview
2.3.2 Recruitment
2.3.2.1 Policies
• Racism is completely avoided in the recruitment process.

• If the conditions of disabled persons don’t affect the work flow
much,disabled persons are also encouraged to be recruited here.
• Proper and any discrimination is avoided.
13
2.3.2.2 Recruitment committee
Mainly the HR department, administration personnel and medical department are included
in the recruitment committee and respective sectional heads maintain this process.
2.3.2.3 Process
• In case of vacancy, internal medium, notice, posters of newspapers are often used
to make people know about vacant posts.
• Any interested person can collect an application form from the factory.
• Application forms need to be approved by the respective department head of the
company.
• It is ensured that no one of the company or any member of the recruitment
Committee can not make any unethical deeds to recruit any worker.
• During primary secretion applicants have to be approved by a register about age and
ability.
• After being selected, each worker is provided with a workers handbook and appointment
letter where designation, appointment date, salary, leave and other facilities are mentioned.
2.3.3 Selection
Interviews are taken in 3 stages.

I. Firstly HR takes the Interview.
II. Then the Head of the technical team takes the Interview.
III. Finally the Director takes the Interview.
2.4 Training & Development
1. Soft Skill - Leadership, Behavioral, Managerial

2. Hard Skill - Different types of training
2.5 Motivation
2.5.1 Performance evaluation
The following process evaluates the performance of an employee:

14
5 4 3 2 1
Excellent Very Good Good Average Poor
The team leader of a team in which that employee works does this process.
2.5.2 Special facilities:
• Employee friendly working environment.

• Helpful Workers.
• Arranges team dinner frequently.
• Annual picnics are held once a year.
2.6 Maintenance
2.6.1 Discipline
Salaries will be deducted from employees if they remain absent from work for 3 days
continuously.
2.7 Responsibilities of Production Officer
◆ To plan, execute and follow up the production activities and control the quality
production with related activities.
◆ Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing.
◆ To issue dyes and chemicals and check out it.
◆ To make program, sample checking and color measurement.
◆ To control the supervisors, operators and helpers.
◆ To give dye line or the program slip according to daily production plan, batch
preparation and PH check.
◆ To check daily production report.
◆ To rectify the finished fabrics which are rejected from quality control department.
◆ To study dye and chemicals nature which is delivered by the manufacturers and
applied them correctly to the production to get the best production.
◆ At last, Production officer reports about the production activities to the
senior production officer
15
2.7.1 Responsibilities of Senior Production Officer
◆ Overallsupervision of the dyeing and finishing section.

◆ Batch preparation and pH check.
◆ Dyes and chemicals requisition issues and check
◆ Write loading/unloading time from machine.
◆ Program making, sample checking color measurement.
◆ Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of a dyeing machine and
any other work when required.
2.8 Compliance
2.8.1 Working conditions policy
To facilitate the health conditions of workers and accelerate the production NCL follows
labor laws and buyer requirements.
◆ Workplace, floor, table, stairs, corridors, are cleaned every day.

◆ Wall and roof top are painted after a particular time.
◆ Cleaning records are maintained.
◆ The factory has adequate windows, which allow natural air and keep internal
temperature in perfect level.
◆ There is enough arrangement in factory for smoke discharge.
◆ There is enough arrangement in factory for smoke discharge.
◆ Particular workers remove wastages.
◆ Wastages are reserved in a specific place.
◆ In the working Zone, there are enough lighting facilities for workers to perform
their work properly.
◆ The factory has provided sanitation facilities to the workers.
2.8.2 Special Policy for Female workers
1. Discrimination : No place for discrimination when it is a matter of designation

promotion. The working capabilities of workers are emphasized on any gender, religion,
community.
16
2. Facilities for pregnant Female worker:

• A pregnant Female worker has to inform the authority about her pregnancy by written or verbal
statement. The authority then grants her all types of pregnancy facilities from 8 weeks before her
probable delivery date.
• After delivery, she gets 8 weeks of maternity leave. If any Female worker dies during her labor,
her family will be provided compensation according to the law decided by the authority.
2.8.3 Security Policy
Authority, Worker, and visitors have to follow a specific policy to maintain the security of
produced materials.
◆ Security men always do their duty politely.

◆ No one can enter the factory without an ID card. For special requirements,
administration should be communicated.
◆ Anybody who comes to the factory for any reason is asked the reason and then make
them write their name, address, time and the name of the referenced person in the
register book. They are given batches according to their purpose of visiting.
2.8.4 Fire safety facilities
◆ ACS has fire exits in each of the floors in the factory to meet up any fire accident.
◆ Availability of fire extinguishers in each section and stair areas are strictly maintained
by NCL.Outside of building area, large drums containing water are kept to cease fire
from breaking out.
1) Water to extinguish fire 2) Fire extinguisher
Fig.2.8.4.1: Fire control equipment

17
◆ Sudden assembly for practicing to avoid hazard, is often taken place without a notice
to build up awareness and make them conscious about any kind of fire incident.
Fig.2.8.4.2: Assembly area for workers
2.8.5 Facilities of available pure drinking water
◆ There is facility of pure drinking water for worker.

◆ Drinking water is being filtered by special filter system.
◆ These filters are also cleaned in a regular basis.
Fig.2.8.5.1: Supply of pure drinking water
2.9.6 Welfare Facilities
2.9.6.1 Death Benefit
ACS has been involved in a one-of-a-kind social service since its inauguration, with a vision that
other multinational organizations would also hopefully endorse. ACS provides an after-death
benefit, apart from death insurance money, to the family of the deceased for an indefinite period
who completed one year continuous service at ACS.
18
2.9.6.2 Free Schooling
ACS believes that education is the only way to reduce the expanse of poverty which upholds a
nation from being established in the present world. With this core belief, ACS provides free
schooling to the children of every employee within the 9 enrolled private schools and 1 of the
Governmental High School located within the neighborhood.
Around 900 children are getting educated under this facility starting from Play Group to 10th
Grade. ACS is also committed to keeping close surveillance for potential students for providing
even higher level studies up to any level.
Fig.2.9.6.2.1: Free Schooling
2.9.6.3 The Day Care Center
Women at ACS not only receive equal opportunity as men, but are provided the added benefit of a
day care center. The day care center is the first of its kind in a manufacturing facility for women
laborers. ACS prides itself on the healthy and conducive environment it creates for all of its 6000
employees.
Children are given fresh milk. Biscuits and Diapers are allotted for babies until 6 years. Playing
Items: Colorful Balls and Rides
Governess: Educated and trained 6(six).
Well trained babysitters are engaged there to take care of the children of female workers and
extra adjournments are given to these workers for which,they can breastfeed or take care of
their babies.
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Fig.2.9.6.3.1: The Day care center
2.9.7 Precaution & Medical facilities
◆Leaflet for every machine is attached on wall or on the machine surface, which
contains the information of the m/c operating system,risk assessments and
prevention.
◆ Workers are not allowed to operate particular machines if they are not properly
dressed to prevent accidents. Example-
Workers, engaged to load equipment and machines on Cargo Lift, are strictly ordered
to wear helmets and boots.
◆ ACS has become more conscious of their workers after Covid-19. The industry
encourages them to wash hands frequently and wear masks as well as use sanitizer
when needed.
◆ A medical center is situated on the right side of the pathway. If anyone suddenly
becomes sick or injured while working and primary treatments and medicines are given
to them as soon as possible.
(1) Dress code for workers (2) M/C operating system & risk assessment
20
(3) Rules for maintaining hygiene (4) Medical center
Fig.2.9.7.1: Precaution and medical center
2.10 Canteen facilities
In each shift, workers and employees dine in the canteen area and have their meal. In ACS
Textiles & Towels Ltd. A large dining area is located in a building which is in between dorms
and the production area. Canteen facilities are also in to the dorms to Provide snacks & beverages
to the employees.
ACS dining area consists of 2 floors and around 400 seating capacity at a time. One
floor area is for employees & the other one is for workers.
Fig.2.10.1: Canteen of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.

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Chapter 3: Product Description
3.1 Weave pattern of products
3.1.1 In Tappet loom
1) Some basic weaves:
✧ Plain weave
✧ Twill Weave
✧ Satin Weave
2) Plain derivatives:
✧ Oxford Weave
✧ Matt Weave
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3) Others:
✧Double Cloth
Fig.3.1.1.1: Weave patterns in tappet loom
3.1.2 In Dobby Loom
Fig.3.1.2.1: Fabric patterns in dobby loom
3.1.3 In Jacquard Loom
Fig.3.1.3.1: Jacquard pattern

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Besides, towel or special fabric is produced mainly in dobby and jacquard looms in ACS Textiles
& Towels Ltd.
3.2 Color combination of products
Fig.3.2.1: Color Combination of products
3.3 Product types
Type Purpose Outlook
To cover the whole surface of the

bed.They are more than a utilitarian
Bed sheet item for bringing style and color to
the bedroom, reflecting the
personality and moods.
24
It is also known as a dust ruffle,

petticoats and dusters, and is designed
to hide the box spring. In addition to
Bed skirts being functional, bed skirts also offer a
way to introduce an additional color,
pattern, and style to the bedroom.
Duvet is a flat bag which is

traditionally filled with down or
feather and is used on the bed as a
Duvet cover blanket. It originated in Europe.
Duvet cover is used to protect it from
dust and also prevent skin contact
from it.
It is used to cover the pillow and

avoids stains and dust accumulation.
One of the quickest ways to change
Pillow cover the feel of a room is to change the
pillow cover to create a fresh new
color scheme.
25
It is a smaller version of a pillow

cover. Normally, it is square
shaped and used for decorative
Cushion cover purposes, mainly on beds or
sofas.
Fabric table cloths contain special

finishing for which water won't
Table cloth penetrate through it. It is spreaded
over the table surface to protect it
from dust,moisture,scratch etc.
A plain table can be transformed into

a striking focal point by covering it
with fabulous table runners. These are
Table runner laid across the table rather than
lengthwise and their purpose
becomes two-fold.
They add detail to the table.
Mainly two types-

One type is necessary during eating
Table napkin to use as wipe for cleaning
face.Another type is used for
cleaning the table cloth or surface of
the table.
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It is an outer protective garment that

covers primarily the front of the body.
Kitchen apron It may be worn for hygienic reasons
as well as in order to protect clothes
from wear and tear.
Kitchen towel is an essential item in

the kitchen for cleaning purpose.It
absorbs moisture as well as works as
Kitchen towel a wiper. This towel is
soft,lightweight and can be washed
easily .
Bath towels are the most required

bathroom accessory. A bath towel is
a piece of absorbent fabric whose
chief use is for drying the body, by
Bath towel drawing moisture, usually water into
the fabric, through direct contact,
with either a blotting or rubbing
motion.
Baby bathrobe is made of absorbent

fabric similar to a bath towel. But in
this, pile yarns are softer,shorter and
Baby bathrobe don't create harshness on the skin of
babies. It can also be tied up as robes
and moisture is absorbed within this
time.
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Curtain is used for preventing sun

rays,dust,dirt to come inside the
Curtain house as well as for privacy and
decorative purposes.
It creates 3D effects on fabric. Small

fibers(flock) are attached on the
Flock surface of the base fabric by
adhesive. It can be applied all over or
on localized areas of the fabric.
Table 3.3.1: Product types of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.

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Chapter 4: Yarn testing lab
4.1 Introduction
ACS textiles and towels Limited has an enriched yarn testing lab, although they do not have any
spinning unit. Hence, they have to purchase yarn(e.g Cotton, polyester, CVC, PC,Silk, viscose)
from local and overseas reputed suppliers.
Purchased yarns are tested again in their own lab before processing in production.
Yarn suppliers name:
Foreign suppliers:
● Sintex
● GTN
● Sanayang
● Weiqiao
Local suppliers:
● Nahid textiles
● Nannu textiles
● Thermax
● Mozaffor textiles
4.2 Machine description
Machines which are conducted for yarn testing are:
1 Twist Tester
Fig.4.2.1: Twist tester

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*Model : Ele Twist Tester

*Company Name: TOMSIC ITALY
*Serial No. 2319079123
*Function : It is an electronic twist tester to measure TPI (Twist per inch) &
twist\ direction.
2 YARN STRENGTH TESTER:
Fig.4.2.2: Strength tester
*Model : UniStretch 250

*Serial No. 2351081027
*Function : It measures tensile strength using CSP(count strength product) by CRL
method. Also measures tear strength by the CRE method.
3 WRAP REEL:
Fig.4.2.3: Wrap reel

30
*Model : Autowrap XT
*Company Name : TOMSIC ITALY
*Serial No. : 2312078585
*Function : Used for count measurement (mostly English count method). 1.5 yards of
yarn is wrapped per revolution;so,it takes 80 revolutions to wrap 120
yards of that particular yarn.For count measurement,
Count(Ne)=(453.6*120)/(840*measured weight in gm)
=64.8/measured weight in gm
4 BROAD WINDER:
Fig.4.2.4: Broad winder
*Model : Auto Winder W

*Serial No. 2320080101
*Function : Used for subjective analysis of yarn
appearance. For each 1 km length of
yarn; thick place(when yarn diameter is
50 percent larger), thin place(when yarn
diameter is 50 percent lesser)&
neps (when yarn diameter is approximately
200 percent larger) are observed.
Fig.4.2.5: Yarn appearance
Apart from these CVM% (coefficient of variation mass) & U% (unevenness percentage) are
also calculated automatically to examine imperfection of the yarn by Uster.
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a. Yarn type
ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd. produces two types of fabrics from these tested & approved
yarns,which are woven fabrics and special woven fabrics or towels.Towel requires two types of
yarns:
1 Pile yarn
2 Ground yarn
In this testing lab, purchased poor quality open end yarns are selected for ground yarns,
as those will not be practically visible after fabric production.
Fig.4.3.1: Flowchart of Open end yarn production process
It is considered as cost effective because open end yarns are comparatively cheaper as it requires
less processes in production than the others. And the industry takes the advantage of it.
32
On the other hand,pile yarns will be visible after production,so good quality yarns are selected &
purchased.Mostly,carded and combed yarns are chosen for pile yarns.Combed yarns are the best of
them,because it requires more processes to reduce hairy fibers.These yarns have more
strength,lusture;fineness and cleanliness than carded yarns.
In the following flow charts,two types of yarn productions are depicted,which are chosen as pile
yarns in ACS.They select either carded or combed yarns according to buyers’ requirements.
Card yarn production: Comb yarn Production:
Fig.4.3.2: Flow chart of carded and combed yarn production

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Chapter 5: Process in yarn section

Though ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd. doesn’t have any spinning unit, they have a huge
section for processing yarn.
Because, home textiles & towels require a variety of yarns according to their count, ply, quality,
gray or colorful etc. So, it is an important factor to process yarn step by step when necessary.
5.1 Process flow in yarn section
Fig.5.1.1: Process flow in yarn section

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5.2 DOUBLING:
The method of twisting two or more single yarns is called doubling or folding or ply twisting.
5.2.1 Objectives of doubling :

• To increase the strength of the yarn
• To increase smoothness, evenness, lusture, uniformity, and compactness of yarn.
• To obtain the better deposition of a twist.
• Doubling of the yarn is also done for production of terry towel for any aesthetic and functional
purpose
5.2.2 Machine Description:
• Brand name: SSM

• No of machine: 01
• Task zone: 78
• Origin : Switzerland
Fig 5.2.2.1 : Doubling M/C

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5.3 TWISTING
Twist is simply the spiral arrangement of fibers around the axis of the yarn. Through twisting,
the fibers are bound together and create a stronger yarn. The number of twists involved is
normally referred to as turns per inch or turns per meter.
5.3.1 Objectives of twisting:

The main objective of ply twisting is to improve the evenness, strength and elongation, lusture,
smoothness and abrasion resistance at yarn stage and to obtain increased stability against wear,
improvement to fabric cover and visual appearance at fabric stage.
5.3.2 Machine description:
• Brand name: Savio Sirius 201 A (400V,50HZ)

• No. of machines: 5 (Electrojet)
• Task Zone : 240
• Origin : India
• Machine factor:
✓ Spyndle
✓ Twist
✓ Count
✓ Winding angle
✓ Torsion
✓ package length
✓ width and weight
Fig 5.3.2.1 : Twisting machine

36
5.4 Soft winding
Soft winding is the process in which yarn is transferred from a paper cone to a special metallic
spring package or a perforated plastic package to facilitate yarn dyeing. Because of this process,
tension within the package is reduced,so it becomes softer and hence dyes can easily penetrate.
Fig.5.4.1.1: Soft winding(paper tube to plastic tube)
Objectives of soft winding :
• Firstly, to make a soft package (Density should lie between 0.300- 0.350gm/cc).
Secondly, to transfer yarn from cone to spring tube or plastic tube.
• Thirdly, soft winding is essential to free the cone from yarn to facilitate
the next process.
• After that, to reduce the density of the package.
• Therefore, it is used to remove unwanted materials from the package.
Lastly, to facilitate batching operations.
Requirements of Soft Winding Section:
In the winding section, various parameters are set to produce the required package which is
best for yarn dyeing. The following are the requirements for the soft winding section. They
are-
37
• The density of the package should be uniform, because it allows better penetration of dye
liquor to the yarn.
• The density value should be lie between 0.30 – 0.35 gm/cc or 300 – 350
Kg/m3. Winding should be performed according to the yarn count.
• Tension of yarn during winding process should be maintained strictly because more tension
makes the package hard and less tension makes the package softer.But the softness of the
package should be at an acceptable level for better dyeing of yarn.
• Winding section floor should be kept neat and clean.
• Winding parameters for different yarn counts should be set wisely.
• More tension can cause more breakage of yarn, low tension makes a softer package. So,
tension should be accurate.
5.4.1 Machine Description
*Brand Name : SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG

*No.of m/c 02
*No. Of spindles 120
*Type : TWX-W
*M/C no : 911.0034/16
*Origin : Switzerland
*Mechanical Speed : Up to 1500 m/min
Fig.5.4.1.1: Soft winding m/c
5.4.2 Winding arrangement of SSM TWX-W
◆ When the package holder is engaged, the package is indirectly driven.
◆ This type of driving system is also called “Friction Drive”.
◆ The traverse motion is given by the moving guide.

38
5.4.3 Flowchart of soft winding
Fig.5.4.3.1: Flow chart of soft winding process
5.4.4 Production parameter of soft winding section
-Spindles per m/c

-Yarn tension.
-Length of yarn to be winded -
-Package density
-Package weight
-Package dimension
-Type of bobbin
-Count of yarn
-M/c speed (meter/min)
-Type of yarn.
5.4.5 Soft winding production calculation
(1) Finding out package density

Package density,ρ
={Mass(M)/Volume(V)} gm/cc Where,
Volume V= π( R2-r2)h
M= (Bobbin weight with yarn-Bobbin weight without
yarn) R=outer radius of the bobbin with yarn
39
r= inner radius of the bobbin

h= height of package
For 40/1 yarn:

R= 16.3/2 = 8.15 cm
= 6.96/2 = 3.48 cm
h= 16cm
M=1395 gm
V= 3.1416*(8.15^2-3.48^2)*16 = 2730 cm3
So, package density ρ=(1395 /2730)= 0.42 gm/cc
Package density of soft winding for cotton must be (0.36-0.40) gm/cc & for polyester or CVC,
it should be more than 0.40 gm/cc.
(2) Production per day (kg/day)
Delivery Speed = 1500 m/min

Total no. of head =(120*2)=240
Efficiency = 90%
Time = 1 day For
40/1 yarn:
Production/day = (1500×240×60×24×0.9×1.09) / (840×40×2.2046) Kg/day

= 6865.4 kg/day
5.5 Batching
After the soft winding process, packages are separated or batched according to their
weight,count & required color which will be accomplished by the dyeing process.This
procedure is necessary as per capacity of yarn dyeing carriers.
5.6 Yarn Dyeing
Several yarn packages are dyed first before fabric manufacturing stage.These colored yarns are
mostly used in sectional warping which may produce check or stripe fabrics as well as colorful &
patterned towels.Here,yarns are wound on perforated cones placed in a dye vessel.The dye solution
is then alternatively pushed inside out due to pressure & temperature.
40
After
yarn
dyeing
Fig.5.6.1: Grey yarn to dyed yarn
All yarn packages for dyeing must provide
▪ Adequate stability during handling while putting in and taking out from
the machine spindle.
▪ All packages must accommodate a small amount of shrinkage in some yarn
and the effect of fiber swelling when wetted out.
▪ It should withstand the change in temperature of the flowing liquor and
pressure during reversal of flow.
▪ The wound yarn should not be trapped; otherwise the back-
winding of the package will be disturbed.
▪ Fairly sufficient resistance to liquor flow at different temperatures and pressure-
both within and between the packages. High porous area will permit excessive
flow causing relative starvation of its neighbors on the same spindle. Packages
of high resistance to flow will inevitably suffer a shortage of liquor and
unevenly dyed.
41
*Brand name: Thies

*No. of m/c : 11 in total (8 small machines for sample dying,3 large machines for
bulk dyeing)
*Origin : Germany
*Type : iCone type 1000
*Pressure : 0.5 MPa & 0.8 MPa(for small m/c),5 bar(for large m/c)
*Capacity : 200 grams (for sample dyeing);1 ton,500 kg & 200 kg (for 3
large machines respectively)
(1) Thies Sample dyeing
(2) Thies Bulk dyeing
Fig.5.7.1.1: Yarn dyeing m/c
First,sample dyeing is accomplished by following recipes for getting desired swatch or pantone
color.Then;after approval,bulk production of package dyeing takes place.This procedure is only
applied for certain number of yarn packages which will be treated as colored warp or weft yarns
during fabric production.
42
5.7.2 Flowchart of yarn Dyeing
Figure 5.7.2.1 : Flowchart of yarn Dyeing

43
5.8 Hydro Extraction

In the yarn dyeing process; the hydro extractor section plays an important role after passing the
dyeing section.The hydro extractor which is used for yarn is different from the hydro extractor
which is used for fabric.It is essential to remove excess water from the package by centrifugal
force.About 60-70% of water is removed by a hydro-extractor.
*Brand Name: DETTINs.p.a

*No. Of m/c : 02
*Model : BERTA 36
*Origin : Italy
Fig.5.8.1.1:Hydro Extractor
5.8.2 Hydro Extracting Cycle
Lowering(30 sec)
Circulation(12sec
Operation(5mins)
Lifting(21sec)
5.9 RF Dryer
Dryer machine is used after dewatering the fabric. Drying machine is used for removing the
residual water contained in the fabric after squeezing by applying heat on the fabric. In this
machine, the fabric is fed on the drying net at low over feed speed and the humidity is continuously
measured. Drying process in textile industry is done by applying heat through burner nozzles.
During drying the total heat passed through the machine is extracted by the exhaust fan.
44
Objectives of Dryer Machine:
• To dry the fabric with help of steam.

• To remove residual water containing in the fabric.
• To control the shrinkage.
• To prepare for next subsequent process.
• To dry tubular and open width fabric without tension.
*Brand Name : STALAM(Shanghai)

*No. of machine 01
*Origin : China
*Capacity : 350 package/per batch
*Power consumption : 170kw/machine
*Steam Consumption: 450kg
*Temperature : 80-85°C
*Time : 0.5 hours
Fig.5.9.1.1: RF Dryer
5.9.2 Water removing Efficiency
● Weight of cone after dyeing=3.02kg

● Weight of cone after drying =1.48kg
● Water removing Efficiency = {(3.02-1.48)/3.02}*100%
=50.993%
5.9.3 Production calculation of RF Dryer
Length of RF Dryer= 13m

At 28 rpm, it takes 21 min 9 see to pass this length.
Along with this length, it can accommodate 416 p/kg i.e. 416 kgs
So,at 21 min 9sec or 1269 sec it can dry 416 kgs.
45
So, in 1hr or 3600 sec;it can dry= {(416x3600)/1269} kg/hr

= 1180.14 kg/hr
So,production per day = (1180.14x24kg)
=22658.688 kg or, 22.66 ton
5.10 Hard Winding

Where the yarn dyed package is converted to paper cone for making the yarn easily be fed to
the sectional warping machine.
5.10.1 Flowchart of Hard Winding
Fig.5.10.1.1: Flowchart of hard winding

46
*Brand Name : SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG

*No.of m/c 02
*No. Of spindles 120
*Type : TWX-W
*M/C no : 911.0034/16
*Origin : Switzerland
*Mechanical Speed: Up to 1500 m/min
Fig.5.10.2.1: Hard winding m/c
5.10.3 Production Parameter of Hard Winding Section
-Yarn tension.
-Type of yarn.
-Count of yarn
-M/c speed (meter/min)
-Spindles per m/c
-Package weight to be given
-Length of yarn to be winded
5.10.4 Production Calculation
(1) Finding out package density

Package density,ρ ={Mass(M)/Volume(V)}
gm/cc Where, Volume V= π( R2-r2)h
M= (Bobbin weight with yarn-Bobbin weight without
yarn) R=outer radius of the bobbin with yarn r=
inner radius of the bobbin
h= height of package
For 40/1 yarn:

R= 16.6/2 = 8.30 cm r
= 6.96/2 = 3.48 cm
h=17 cm
M=1403gm
47
V= 3.1416*(8.30^2-3.48^2)*17 = 3032 cm3
So, package density ρ=(1403 / 3032)= 0.46 gm/cc
(2) Production per day (kg/day)
Delivery Speed = 1500 m/min

Total no. of head
=(120*2)=240
Efficiency =85%
Time = 1 day
For 40/1:
Production/day = (1500×240×60×24×0.85×1.09) / (840×40×2.2046) Kg/day

= 6484 kg/day
5.10.5 Faults in Winding Section
Faults Causes
01) Excessive hard package Excess tension
02) Excessive loose package Less tension
03) Ring Faulty drum
04) Stiching Vibration of package
05) Ribbon Ribbon breaker problem
06) Bulging Improper alignment

of package
07) Entanglement Jerking package
08) Bunch Improper store & handling
09) Cut cone Package drop
10) Reverse winding Low pressure
Fig.5.10.5.1: Faults in winding section

48
5.10.6 QUALITY CONTROL IN WINDING SECTION
The following quality is maintained in preparatory stage:
• Level Checking: During package dyeing dyes chemicals enter into the package by pressure. So
there is a possibility to differ levels in the inner and outer side. It is checked and allow up to (5-
6)%
• Fastness: Water and color fastness is checked.
• Strength: CSP, tenacity, CV% of tenacity, elongation are tested.
• Package hardness: Soft wound package is checked by hand. If it is hard, improper dyeing will
occur. The hard wound package also is checked. If it is less hard or too hard it will create
problems in the subsequent process.
49
Chapter 6 : Weaving Preparatory Process
6.1 Warping:
Warping is the second stage of the processes used after winding. The process involves transferring
yarn from a predetermined number of tubes, cones or cheeses positioned on the creel onto a
warper's beam.
6.1.1 Objective of warping

The objectives of warping are to arrange a convenient number of yarns, winding up fixed length
of yarn on to a warp beam and preparation of weaver’s beam.
6.1.2 Types of warping

• Direct Warping
• Sectional Warping
6.1.3.1 Working procedure (Direct warping)

• As per production program given by Assistant Manager, preparation through the yarn.
Warped Record Register; the Supervising Officer collect greige yarn from the store asper
required count Lot. No. & quality.
• The machine operators and helpers open/break the yarn cartons & place the yarn cones on
the creel peg as per program & draw the head end of each cone through pre-tensioner rods
feeler wire, yarn guide & then through expanded comb of beaming unit.
• The basic creel data setting & machine data setting are done according for the required as
per machine instruction.
• An empty beam is set between driving clutch & engaged by means of electric switch.
• All the ends from the creel are warped around the beam manually one round.
• The press roller is moved toward the beam by means of electric switch.
• The machine is then run slowly and checked for yarn alignment with beam flange on both
sides. To ensure perfect alignment the expended comb may be moved either to the Right
side or Left side as required by switch.
• Then the machine is ready & operational & the switch is to be turned on.
• As the present length is achieved the machine will stop automatically. The beam is doffed
by switch. Another empty beam is mounted.
• In this way a set of beams are made to feed the subsequent sizing process.
• Production is recorded in the yarn Warped Record Register. Each beam is set
with warping Data sticker for identification in the next process.
50
H- Shaped V- Shaped
Figure 6.1.3.1.1 : Direct Warping Machine
6.1.3.2 Comparative analysis between H-Shaped & V-

Shaped Direct Warping machine
H- Shaped Direct Warping Machine V- Shaped Direct Warping Machine
▪ Less Production ▪ High Production
▪ Mainly Used for yarn ▪ Used for solid fabric

Dyed Fabric
▪ Have leasing process for ▪ No Leasing Process
separating the repeat of
yarn
▪ Re-beaming required ▪ No requirement of re-beaming
▪ More able to produce ▪ Less able

various designed fabric
▪ In ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd.

Total Direct Warping machine-7
Weaving Floor-1 No. of Warping M/C = 2
Weaving Floor-2 No. of Warping M/C = 3
Towel Floor No of Warping M/C = 2
Table 6.1.3.2.1 : warping m/c

51
Machine Description:
• Machine Name : Benninger
• Country of Origin : Switzerland
• M/C RPM: 800
• Creel capacity : 896 (V- shaped)
1008 (H-shaped)
6.1.3.3 Working procedure (Sectional warping)
• Based on weave plan supervising officer and/or senior operator receive the required dyed
yarn from winding section of specific customer order no. as per color and quantity.
• As per worked out warp pattern scheme senior operator arrange the yarns on the creel
following the color pattern. Quality control officer will check any shade be taken to use
them lot by lot. Quality control officer will sign on the warping program register
• The operator & creel man draw the yarn through feeler wire on creel & splits of the
leasing reed & then through guide reed & tie in.
• Then the main switch of main control panel is turned on & cone alignment is done by
respective switch.
• Senior operator will put necessary data entry on the warping data sheet by taking some
figure from yarn warped record register & by calculating some values as per prescribed
formula in the machine manufacturer’s operating instruction book. He will also input
these required figures in the control data unit of the machine.
• Hook warp section on to the drum by opening & closing the guide roller.
• Start warping by pressing foot pedal at the head stock. Machine will run slowly at crawl
speed. After 15 meter being wound on, stop the machine and insert leasing threads. Then
again start machine with run switch at the head stock and finish warping of the section.
• Then by section alignment switch set the machine ready for next section. Repeat step-7
and 8 to finish the warping.
52
Fig 6.1.3.3.1 : Sectional warping machine
❖ Machine Description:
• Brand Name : Benninger
• Country of Origin : Switzerland
• M/C RPM: 800
• Creel capacity : 640
6.1.4 Key factors for quality check:

▪ Taking care about knots while repair a broken end. During warping, knots should be as
small as possible and tight enough.
▪ To avoid yarn overlapping especially on both side of beam (near to flanges
of warper beam)
▪ Avoid lot mixing, all the yarns selected for warping must be from same count, lots,
brand.
▪ Machine should be cleaned properly to avoid blend mixing
6.1.5 Warping faults:

• Crossed ends,
• Snarl formation,
• Hard beam,
• Warp of centre of the beam,
• Missing ends,
• Unequal warp length,
• Uneven or ridgy warp beam,
53
6.2 Sizing
Sizing is the process of giving a protective coating on the warp yarn to minimize yarn
breakage during weaving. Sizing is the most important operation in preparing warp yarn
for weaving especially with cotton yarn.
6.2.1 Objectives of sizing:
The main objective of the sizing process is given below:
• To improve the weave ability of warp yarn.

• To improve the fibre to fibre adhesion force in the yarn.
• To prevent slippage of fibres in the yarn during weaving.
• To impart Strength to warp yarn
• To improve fabric quality by reducing hairiness, weakness and increasing
smoothness
6.2.2 General Recipe Practice at ACS Textile and Towel Ltd:

Water 700 Liter
Starch 80 kg
PVA 3 kg
Binder 8 kg
Wax 4 kg
Table 6.2.2.1 : Recipe of sizing

6.2.3 Temperature Parameter:
Tank Room temperature
Cooking 120⁰ centigrade

Tank
Reserve 85⁰ centigrade
Tank
Size Box (85-90)⁰ centigrade
Table 6.2.3.1 : Standard Temp for sizing

54
6.2.4 Tank volume:
Tank Name Quantity Volume (liter)

Mixing Tank 02 1300
Reserve Tank 02 1300
Cooking 01 1600
Tank
Table 6.2.4.1 : Tank Volume
6.2.5 Equipment for viscosity measurement:
1. Viscosity measuring cup Using a cup which is 100 ml in volume and has a pore which
is 3.5 mm in size, filled with sizing material. Then by using a stop watch measure the
time to empty the cup. Time varies from one sizing material to another due to different
viscosity.
2. Refractometer Opening the front side of the refractometer some sizing materials
input inside it. Then looking through the refractometer reflection is measured by the line
inside it which indicate the solid content %. The percentage value range is up to 30%.
Figure 6.2.5.1 : Viscosity Measuring Cup Figure 6.2.5.2 : Refractometer

55
6.2.6 Working process

56
Fig: 6.2.6.1 Sizing machine
6.2.7 Machine description:
• Machine name: Sizing machine

• Brand : Benninger
• Origin : Switzerland
• Model : Ben Size Tech
• No of sized box: 2 (In case no. of total ends is less than 12000 then 1 box is used)
• Capacity : 24 beams
• No of dryer r/r= 6
• Total capacity :28000
• Hardness: Ebonite r/r 100%
• Hardness: Emery r/r 70-75%
• Hardness: Squeezing r/r 65-70%
• Working width of creel beems: 190 cm
• Squeezing rollers width: 200 cm
57
6.2.8 Different sizing faults and there remedies
Under drying: If the sized warp sheet contains more moisture percentage than the standard
amount, this is called under drying. It causes end breakage in sizing and creates the possibility of
bacteria development while the sized warp beam remains unused.
Streaks in beam: When the distribution of ends in the beam is not even the streaks in the beam
result. It occurs due to uneven denting of warp ends in the reed.
Loose selvedges: when the beam width is slightly greater than the reed width, the selvedges of the
beam become loose. It creates tension problems in weaving.
Tight selvedges: When the beam width is slightly less than the reed width, the beam selvedges
become tight and ends breakage on the selvedges results.
Loose winding tension: If winding tension is less than required, the beam becomes loose and
results in the form of warp tension variation in weaving.
High winding tension: When the winding tension is more than required, the beam becomes more
compact. The yarn losses its elongation and results in the form of high-end breakage inweaving.
Cut selvedges: Cut selvedges occur due to the rough edges of the weaver’s beam flanges. To avoid
this problem, the edges of the flanges should be smooth.
6.2.9 Sizing chemical used:
• Modified starch (85% solid content)

• Polyvinyl alcohol (98%)
• Wax (softex)
• Polystrine KP(85%)
• Polystrine HMV (80%)
Fig 6.2.9.1: mixing Tank Fig 6.2.9.2 :Cooking tank

58
6.2.10 Machine criteria selection
➢ Size box and box width

➢ No of dryer
➢ Drying temp setting
➢ Double dip double nip
➢ Moisture control unit
➢ Head stock width
➢ No of size box
6.2.11 Controling points of sizing:
➢ Size pick up
➢ Stretch
➢ Moisture Content
➢ Quality of beam
➢ Machine Speed
➢ Machine efficiency
➢ A method to calculate the level of productivity
Fig 6.2.11.1 : Leasing Rod

59
6.2.12 Different types of sizing calculation:
Many calculations needed to run a sizing program. The calculation we use in ACS textiles ltd. are
given below -
➢ Size take-up/pick-up%
6.2.12.1 Sizing Calculation:
Example: Assuming all data based on ACS Textiles and Towels ltd.
Weight of consumed sizing liquor = weight of sized yarn – weight of unsized yarn = (55 – 51) kg
= 4 kg, Weight of unsized yarn = 51 kg
Take up / Pick up % =weight of sized yarn −weight of unsized yarn × 100

Weight of yarn
= 4 × 100
51
= 7.8%
60
6.2.12.2 Take up % on the basis of different count
Count has a relation with take up% which is given below with a table: (Counts are taken in Ne unit)
Table 6.2.12.3.1 : Take up% on different count Yarn
6.2.12.3 Size take up % calculation
Size take-up % = 𝑾𝒆𝒊𝒈𝒉𝒕 𝒐𝒇 𝒔𝒊𝒛𝒆𝒅 𝒚𝒂𝒓𝒏 −𝑾𝒆𝒊𝒈𝒉𝒕 𝒐𝒇 𝒖𝒏𝒔𝒊𝒛𝒆𝒅 𝒚𝒂𝒓𝒏 × 100%

𝑾𝒆𝒊𝒈𝒉𝒕 𝒐𝒇 𝒖𝒏𝒔𝒊𝒛𝒆𝒅 𝒚𝒂𝒓𝒏
Table 6.2.12.4.1: Size Take-up % in different m/c

61
Chapter 07: Process of Weaving Unit
7.1 Weaving
Weaving is the process of manufacturing woven fabric by interlacing two sets of yarns (warp &
weft) at right angle (90°) according to design. In weaving, lengthwise yarns are called warp;
crosswise yarns are called weft or filling. Most woven fabrics are made with their outer edges
finished in a manner that avoids raveling of yarns; these are called selvages. Selvedges run
lengthwise, parallel to the warp yarns. The three basic weaves are plain, twill, and satin. Fancy
weaves—such as pile, dobby etc— require more complicated looms or special loom attachments
for their construction.
7.2 Weaving process flow chart

62
7.2.1 Loom plan
It is a plan where the required number of looms are allocated to meet the buyer’s requirement
within due time. It also includes the selection of loom types. RPM for desire fabric quality and
consumption. After getting the pattern paper all the possible problems need to be determined and
solved. Such as – during loom plan, type of loom selection is done depending on the fabric design
and construction for good quality and production.
Suppose, an order contains 50,000 yds, 20 × 16/128 × 60 57’’ having lead time one month.
Calculate no. of looms need to allocate to execute the order.
➢ For yarn collection need approx. – 5 days

➢ For warping sizing drawing denting – need 3 days
➢ Starting and tapering = 4 days
➢ Weaving time = 30 – 5 – 3 – 4 = 18 days
➢ Production of a loom having 500 RPM at 80% efficiency = 𝑅𝑃𝑀 ×𝑒𝑓𝑓𝑖𝑐𝑖𝑒𝑛𝑐𝑦
𝑃𝑃𝐼
500 × 60 × 24 × 0.8
= = 266 𝑦𝑑𝑠
60 × 36
➢ Per day required production = 50,000/18 = 2777 yds

➢ Loom required to produce 2777 yds per day = 2777/266 = 11 looms
7.2.2 Drawing
Drawing program is made just before getting the weavers beam from the sizing & warping
department. After that drawing & denting are done according to the paper that comes from the
R&D department. Under drawing and denting following steps are done-
63
Figure 7.2.2.1: Drawing in through drop wire and

heald eye
7.2.3 Denting
It is the process of passing warp yarn through the dent of the reed.
For example, for 3/1s twill we need 4 heald frames for body fabric and 2 heald frames for selvedge
production. If EPI to too high we can increase the number of heald frame to reduce the stress on
the yarn for lees yarn breakage. Depending on the yarn count and EPI reed selection is done
Figure 7.2.3.1 : Denting Process

64
7.2.4 Different elements for Drawing and Denting
7.2.4.1 Drawing Stand:
Drawing stand is used to draw the warp and hold the drop wire bars, heald frames,
and the beam itself.
Figure 7.2.4.1.1 : Drawing Stand.
7.2.4.2 Drop wire
A metal device through which warp yarn is passed to detect the yarn breakage during weaving
process. Drop wire thickness changes with the warp yarn count as follows:
➢ There are two types of drawing –

1. False Pattern: Usually use for normal design to reduce loom downtime. The yarn
count must be similar as the weaver beam’s yarn count and it is collected from
the sizing department.
2. Beam drawing: It is done in case of a small repeat, multiple counts in one repeat.
It is done because to minimize the crossing of yarns and to maintain fabric
design according to color wise.
65
Figure 7.2.4.2.1 : Drop Wire
7.2.4.3 Heald Frame:
A frame that contains heald wires, is used for lifting & lowering the warp yarn according to lifting
plan.
• Number of heald frame depends on lifting plan.
Healdwire:
Different sizes & types of healdwire are used in ACS Textile and Towel Ltd:
1. 11’’-used in Optimax cam machine.

2. 13’’ – used in Sulzer & Dornier machine.
3. 15’’- used in Optimax I dobby machine.
Types of Healdwire:
• C type: Optimax I dobby machine

• J type: Dornier machine
66
C Types
J Types
Figure 7.2.4.3.1 : Types of Heald wire

7.2.4.4 Drawing Hook:
It is the process of passing warp yarn through the dropwires. Drop wires are hold by
the warp detector rod and plain type warp detector rod is used to facilitate the
movement of the dropwires. It can draw two ends at a single time.
Figure 7.2.4.4.1 : Drawing hook.
7.2.4.5 Reed Knife
This device is used to draw warp from heald frame into dent. As per denting order no.
of yarn is drawn with this knife.
67
Figure 7.2.4.5.1 : Reed Knife
7.2.4.6 Reed
There are two types of reed –
1. Profile reed (one side is flat & other side is profile), which is used in air jet loom. Weft
yarn inserts along this profile channel.
2. Flat reed (Both sides are flat), which is used in rapier loom.
Flat Reed Profile Reed

Figure 7.2.4.6.1 : Types of Reed
7.2.4.6.1 Reed Selection
Selection of reed is done depending on the yarn count, fabric quality, construction, and weave.
*Factors considered for the selection of reed:
➢ Finer yarn, finer reed.

➢ High density warp yarn (coarser) –need coarser reed.
➢ For twill and satin, no of repeat = no of ends per dent.
➢ Overall fabric appearance.
68
7.2.4.6.2 Reed count
In every two inches the number of the dent is known as it’s reed count. For finer yarn count finer
reed count is used and for courser yarn count courser reed count is used.
❖ In ACS,Reed counts are expressed by no of dents per inch

Most of the available reed counts are used in acs – 36, 34 ,30
❖ Reed Counts depend on-
▪ Ends per inch(EPI)

▪ No. of ends per dent
▪ Construction of the Fabric
7.2.5 Knotting
In the knotting process, a knotting machine is used to knot up the false pattern with the warpers
beam. Before knotting combing is done to reduce yarn crossing and to correct the yarn alignment.
Depending on count different types of needles are used as follows-
Figure 7.2.5.1 : knotting M/C

• Brand name: Staubli Topmatic
• Model: TPM - 200
• Country of Origin: Switzerland
• Machine Speed (rpm): 600 knots/min
• Knotting Type: Single Knot
• Knotting count: 4-50Ne
69
7.2.6 Leno Bobbin Winder
Figure 7.2.6.1 : Leno Bobbin Winder
• Brand Name: IZUMI International

• Model: HBW - 220M - B
• Country of Origin: Japan
7.2.6.1 Bobbin Winder for Dummy Selvedge
Figure 7.2.6.1.1: Bobbin Winder Machin

70
o Brand Name: DUKI

o Country of Origin: China
7.2.6.2 Selvedge Bobbin Winder Machine
Figure 7.2.6.2.1 : Selvedge Bobbin Winder
• Brand Name: Brandt

• Model: FLSM/K2
• Country of Origin: Germany
7.2.7 Looming
After knotting mechanical department set the mechanical article (cam set up, temple set up, lifting
& lowering set up) to run the loom.
7.2.8 Beam binder work
Under this process -
➢ Knotted warp yarns are passed through the drop wires, heald wires and reed.
➢ Warp yarn breakages are reknotted.
➢ Reed count is checked and corrected by the reed man if needed.
➢ Initially pick insertion is done in the presence of mechanical department and beam binders.
71
7.2.9 Loom Specifications of Weaving floor:
• Total no. of looms : 486
• Production capacity: 76000 yds/ day
7.2.9.1 Weaving floor layout:
Weaving 1 , Shed 1
Figure 7.2.9.1.1 : Weaving-1 Layout

72
WEAVING-1, SHED -2
133 131 130 129 128 127 126 125

147 145 143 141 139 137 135 133
148 146 144 142 140 138 136 134
155 153 151 149

163 161 159 157
156 154 152 150
164 162 160 158
179 177 175 173 167
169
ENTRY
171 165
182 180 178 176
195 193 191 189 172 170 168 166
196 194 192 190
187 185 183 181
211 209 207 205
212 210 208 206 188 186 182
184
227 225 223 221
222 203 201 199 197
228 226 224
239 237 235 233 204 202 200 198
219 217 215 213
220 218 216 214
232 230 228 226
Figure 7.2.9.1.2 : Weaving- Layout

73
Weaving 1
Shed 1 Shed 2
No. of looms = (1 – 124) No. of looms = (125 - 236)
Types of loom Types of loom
1. Tsudakoma Dobby ( m/c dia130”) 1. Picanol OMNI plus summum (m/c dia130”)
2. Tsudakoma Zex ( m/c dia 130”) 2. Picanol OPTIMAX – I (m/c dia 130”)
3. Tsudakoma 205 ( m/c dia 130”) 3. Picanol 800 (m/c dia 130”)
Weaving 2
No of looms = (237 – 486)
1. Tsudakoma Dobby ( m/c dia130”)

2. Tsudakoma Zex ( m/c dia 130”)
3. Tsudakoma 205 ( m/c dia 130”)
Weaving 3 ( Towel production floor )
No. of Looms = 60
1. Dornier Jacquard (Germany)

2. Servo Dornier 80006 ( “ )
4. Picanol OMNI plus-800-6-J (Belgium)
5. Picanol OMNI plus Summum-6-J ( “ )
6. Picanol Optimax-I-12-J ( “ )
7. Picanol Terry plus I ( “ )
8. Tsudakoma Dobby-ZA207TI ( Japan )
74
OMNIplus OMNIplus
Model OptiMax - i
Summum 800
Reed Width 220 cm 190 cm 220 cm
Maximum RPM 1050 800 690
Reed Type Profile Reed Profile Reed Plain Reed
Maximum Heald Frame Capacity
6-14 6 6-12
Cam Shedding/ Cam Shedding/
Electronic Cam Shedding Electronic
Shedding Mechanism Dobby Dobby
Shedding Shedding
Shedding Type Positive Positive Positive

Type of Shed Open Shed Open Shed Open Shed
Weft Insertion Mechanism
Air Jet Air Jet Rapier
Maximum Weft Color Capacity
2/4/6 2 2/4/6
Selvedge Type E-Leno E-Leno E-Leno
Beat up Mechanism Cam beat up Cam beat up Cam beat up
Let off Mechanism Servo motor Servo motor Servo motor
Take up Mechanism Servo motor Servo motor Servo motor
Warp stop Drop Wire Drop Wire Drop Wire
Weft stop Filling Detector Filling Filling Detector
Detector
Filling Detector Optical Optical Mechanical
No. of Feeling Detector 2 2 1
No. of Fixed Main Nozzle 2 2 Nill
No. of Movable Main Nozzle Nill
2 2
No. of Relay Nozzle 32 28 Nill
No. of Valves 16 14 Nill
Distance between Relay Nozzle Nill
76 mm 76 mm
Main Motor Sumo motor Sumo motor Sumo motor
Average Power
3.40 KW/h 3.55 KW/h 6.15 KW/h
Consumption
Average Air Consumption 1.5 m3/min 1.6 m3/min 0.3 m3/min
Table 7.2.9.1.3 : Loom Specifications of Weaving floor

75
Picanol OMNI plus Summum:
Figure 7.2.9.1.2 : Picanol OMNI plus Summum
• Brand Name: Picanol

• Model: OMNI plus Summum
• Country of Origin: Belgium
Selvedge system :
▪ Electrical Leno selvedge system

▪ Most used weave structure for selvedge formation 1/1, 2/2
▪ In order to make tight selvedge 1/1 weave structure is more preferable
76
Picanol OMNI plus 800:
Figure 7.2.9.1.3: Picanol OMNI plus 800.

• Model: OMNIplus 800
Selvedge system :
Picanol OptiMax- i:
Figure 7.2.9.1.4: Picanol OptiMax-i.

77

• Model: OptiMax-i
Selvedge system :
Tsudakoma Dobby:
Figure 7.2.9.1.5 : Tsudakma Dobby
• Brand Name : Tsudakoma

• Model: Dobby
• Country of Origin: Japan
Selvedge system :
78
7.2.10 Different Mechanism of Loom:

7.2.10.1 Shedding:
Shedding is a device to form shed. With the help of heald frame warp yarns are separated
individually into two layers i.e. shed to insert weft yarn. Shedding is the primary motion
of loom to form woven fabrics.
Among other shed types, Open Shed is mainly practiced at ACS Textiles and Towels
Ltd. there are two shedding types:
• Cam Shedding
• Electro-magnetic Dobby Shedding
7.2.10.1.1 Cam Shedding:
In cam shedding rising and lowering of heald frames are controlled by cam design. Cams
are selected according to the design of fabric. In ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd. cams are
available in ranges as: 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 2/1, 2/2, 3/1, 4/1. By these cams, structures as Plain,
Twill and Satin etc. can be done
Figure 7.2.10.1.1.1 : Cam Shedding.

79
Available Cams:
1/1 1/2
1/4 2/1
2/2 3/1
4/1
Figure 7.2.10.1.1.2 : Cam Shedding.
80
7.2.10.1.2 Electro-magnetic Dobby Shedding:

Dobby shedding is done when number of cam is mixed out to produce any particular
design. Shedding program is done in the control panel. With the help of electro magnetic
sensor, raising- lowering sequence of heald frames are created.
Figure 7.2.10.1.2.1: Electro-magnetic dobby cam.

81
7.2.10.1.2.2 Parts of Electro-magnetic dobby cam:
• Magnet Bar
• Selector
• Jack
• Cams Unit
• Connecting rod
• Driver
• Control lever
• Ratchet
Figure 7.2.10.1.2.2.1 : Parts of electro-magnetic dobby cam
7.2.10.2 Picking:
Weft insertion mechanism through shed is known as picking. In picking, weft yarn is
inserted from one end of loom and delivered to other end of the loom to ensure full fabric
width insertion. The inserted weft is cut after one or two picking using weft cutter.
There are two types of weft insertion system in available in ACS textiles and towels Ltd.
• Air Jet
• Rapier
82
7.2.10.2.1 Air jet:
In air jet loom picking is done with compressed air. Feeler yarn is projected by main nozzle
inside the shed using air pressure and for full insertion to the other side of the loom. There are
numbers of relay nozzles that work in the loom to carry the weft to full width
▪ Weft insertion rate – 2000 meters/minute

▪ Most usable Count of the weft yarn in ACS in Air Jet Loom – 10,16,20,24,30,40 Ne
Note:
In case of heavy weight fabric they used lower count of weft yarn, but in case of light weight
fabric they used higher count of weft yarn (e.g Satin fabric)
Figure 7.2.10.2.1.1 : Weft Insertion by Air Jet Loom.
7.2.10.2.2 Rapier:
In Rapier loom weft is inserted with double rapier in ACS Textile and towel Ltd. There
is one Gripper that grips the yarn and carries it to middle then Receiver carries the yarn
from there to the other side of loom and completes picking.
Figure 7.2.10.2.2.1 : Gripper Figure 7.2.10.2.2.2: Receiver

83
7.2.10.3 Beat Up:

Beat up is to take the newly inserted yarn to the fell of the cloth to finish one weaving
cycle. Reed does the beat up action by pushing newly inserted yarn to fell of the cloth.
This beat up action can be of two types. Cam beat up and Crank beat up. In ACS
Textiles and Towels Ltd. all looms have cam beat up mechanism.
Main motors drive the gears that give to and fro motion to the sley where reed is attached.
7.2.10.4 Take Up:

To roll the produced cloth take up is carried out. Take up is done with a servo motor
named ETU motor. It is synchronized with the let off motion.
❖ Two Types of Take UP system is used in ACS Weaving Floor
• Mechanical system
• Electrically control system
Figure 7.2.10.4.1: Take up
7.2.10.5 Let Off:

To unwind the warp from beam and feeding to the machine. Let off is done by servo
motor called ELO motor. With the decrease of beam diameter speed of let off increase.
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Figure 7.2.10.5.1: Let off.
7.2.10.6 Warp Stop Motion:

Warp Stop Motion is the automation used in industrial looms. Warp is inserted in drop
wire. That drop wire is inserted in metal bars without it. When a warp breaks there is
nothing left to hold that particular drop wire and it falls on the bar completing circuit
within bars and circuit box that stop the loom immediately. Then broken warp is knotted
in that area.
Figure 7.2.10.6.1 : Warp Stop Device

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7.2.10.7 Weft Stop Motion:
In case of any weft breakage, weft running out, partial picking loom stops immediately. This
automation stands for weft stop motion. It gives operator much time to insert new weft
package or correct any difficulties in picking
Figure 7.2.10.7.1 : Weft Stop Indicator
7.2.11 Parts of loom:
7.2.11.1 Pre Winder:

It is a device which is in between weft package and main nozzle that unwinds a
predetermined length of weft from the package and store it in the form of no. of coils on
a cylindrical drum. There is an indicator that shows the yarn presence in Pre winder.
The length of pick is obtain by the 4 rotation of the pre winder.
86
Figure 7.2.11.1.1 : Pre winder
Important factors:
▪ Pre winder gets driving force I.R.O
▪ Pre winder diameter depends upon the loom width
7.2.11.2 Ballon Breaker:
It is positioned just after the pre winder. Any winding or unwinding of yarn forms balloon
if that yarn gets enough space. Balloon Breaker works as in such a way that the yarn
cannot have that space to form balloon.
Figure 7.2.11.2.1: Balloon Breaker.

87
7.2.11.3 Reed:
In ACS Textiles and Towel Ltd. two kinds of reeds are used. For Rapier Loom Plain
Reed is used and for Air Jet Loom Profile Reed is used.
Figure 7.2.11.3.1 : Plain Reed Figure 7.2.11.3.2: Profile Reed
Note: Reeds of several counts are used in industry. Maximum reed count 80 inch
is available. It can be customized as per required fabric width.
7.2.11.4 Main Nozzle:

Main Nozzle delivers the weft inside the shed
Figure 7.2.11.4.1 : Main Nozzle

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7.2.11.5 Relay Nozzle:
Relay Nozzle carries the feed yarn from Main Nozzle to other side of the loom to
complete weft insertion. Adaptive Relay Valve Drive (ARVD) system controls the air
pressure in Relay Nozzle to ensure full insertion of weft.
▪ Max Pressure – 6.9 bar

▪ Coarser Yarn – High pressure
▪ Finer yarn – less pressure
▪ No. of Relay nozzle – 24 (OMNI Plus SUMMUM)
Figure 7.2.11.5.1: Relay Nozzle.
7.2.11.6 Main Valve:

Main valve sends the supplied weft yarn to the other side using compressed air.
7.2.11.7 Sub Valve:
To create additional air flow in direction to air jet to compensate air velocity in Relay Nozzle and
ensure full weft insertion. They come in a series and fitted along the sley. One valve can provide
air in 4 Relay Nozzles
89
Figure 7.2.11.7.1 : Sub Valve.
7.2.11.8 Weft Cutter:

Completing weaving cycle after beat up weft yarn is cut by weft cutter. It grips and cuts
the weft yarn from insertion side after every pick around be.
Figure 7.2.11.8.1 : Weft cutter.

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7.2.11.9 Selvedge Cutter:
At loom ends selvedge cutters are placed. This device cut the auxiliary selvedge and
protruding yarns at fabric ends and passed as wastage.
Figure 7.2.11.9.1 : Selvedge cutter
7.2.11.10 Temple :
The function of temple is to hold the cloth at a proper width to prevent it from being drawn in too
much by the filling.
Figure 7.2.11.10 .1 : Temple

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7.2.11.11 Brake:
Brake gives an important motion to loom, which can reduce accident. It is also used to stop the
loom instantly, to repair the breakage of yarn during weaving
Figure 7.2.11.11.1: Brake
7.2.11.12 Electronic Leno Selvedge System (ELSY):

In looms for leno selvedge Electronic Leno Selvedge System (ELSY) is used. By using
this device extra heald frames for selvedge is not required and takes lesser power
consuming than heald frame.
Picanol OptiMax-i, Picanol OMNIplus 800 use ELSY device and Picanol OMNIplus
Summum uses upgraded ELSY PLUS device
Figure 7.2.11.12.1 : ELSY Device.

92
Figure 7.2.11.12.2 : Selvedge Design.
Note: Selvedge has an individual design that is done on the control panel.
7.2.11.13 Leno device:

For making leno selvedge is leno device is used. Leno packages are fed into the device
to form selvedge.
Figure 7.2.11.13.1 : Leno device

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7.2.11.14 Loom Indicator:
• Green: It indicates any mechanical complication

adjustment fault
• Orange: It shows the electric warp stop
• Red: Indicates the weft stop
• White: Indicates doffing
Figure 7.2.11.14.1 : Signal Light
7.2.11.15. Bourdon Pressure Gauge:
In air jet looms, valve pressures are measured to ensure if all the valves, nozzles are
receiving adequate pressure for full width weft insertion.
▪ Main valve pressure: 2 Bar, Relay valve pressure: 2.2bar
Figure 7.2.11.15.1 : Bourdon Pressure Gauge

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7.2.12 Loom efficiency factors:
• RPM.
• Yarn quality.
• Loom quality.
• Sizing quality.
• Selection of reed, cam, heald wire, no of frame, per frame yarn etc.
• Weaver skinless.
• Loom setting – back rest height, depth, shed angle, frame height.
7.2.13 Necessary adjustments when fabric quality changes:
• Back rest height.

• Setup of drop wires.
• Cam/lifting change.
• Mechanical article changes.
• Pick change.
7.2.14 Steps to control wastage in weaving process:
1. Not more than 1-2 meters of yarn can be taken while making the pattern.
2. Not more than 1 meter of yarn can be wasted while leasing.
3. Not more than 2-3 meters of yarn should be wasted while making the pattern with
beams.
4. In case of the same beam knotting, not more than 2-3 meters can be wasted.
5. Pattern load - Waste should not be more than 3-4 meters in case of knotting.
6. Have to select the option which is the least waste, before processing a program. If it is
possible to run by modifying the previous pattern or knotting on the running machine.
7. Beam storage on the floor should be done in such a way that the thread of the beam
is not damaged by hitting one beam with another.
8. First roll must be checked carefully and necessary measures must be taken and
fabric rejection should not be allowed to be more than 0.1%.
95
9. Not to cut the cloth roller immediately after the beam is finished, if possible, cut the
cloth roller after passing the same beam knot. In this case, 1-2 meters of fabric waste
will be less.
10. Color catch cord cannot be attached to the gray beam. Color catch cord can be attached
to the yarn dyed beam.
11. Ensure maximum use of weft/cone yarn. Turn on the flat/cut/damage no.
12. Grey yarn produced in any shift should be continued in the corresponding shift. Grey
yarn cannot be stored or transferred to other shifts, process the finished Grey yarn
within 7 days and continue.
13. All types of waste should be controlled by increasing supervision & monitoring on the
floor.
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7.3 TERRY TOWEL

TOWEL WEAVING LAYOUT
15 13 11 09 07 05 03 01
64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57
R
14 12 11 10 08 06 07 02
E
25 24 23 22 21 20 18 17
19
42 40 38 36 34 T
N 32 30 28 26
43 41 39 37 35 33 31 29 27
E
50 48 46 44
59 57 55 53 51
51 49 47 45
Figure 7.3.1: weaving - 3 Layout
Weaving 3 (Towel production floor)
No. of Looms = 60
➢ Types of Loom and Origin

1. Dornier Jacquard (Germany)
4. Picanol OMNI plus-800-6-J (Belgium)
5. Picanol OMNI plus Summum-6-J ( “ )
6. Picanol Optimax-I-12-J ( “ )
7. Picanol Terry plus I ( “ )
8. Tsudakoma Dobby-ZA207TI ( Japan )
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7.4 Basic discussions about Terry Towel
7.4.1 Terry Towel :
A terry towel is described as a textile product which is made with loop pile on one or both sides
generally covering the entire surface or forming stripe, check, or other patterns with end hems or
fringes and side hems and selvedges.
7.4.2 Classification :
The classification of towels can be made according to construction, dimensions, pile presence on
fabric front and back surfaces, pile height formation, pile structure, finishing and weight per
square meter. These classifications are shown in Table
Weft pick Pile presence

Weight Production Finishing count per pile on fabric
loop surface
Very heavy Woven Velour Two-pick Terry One side Pile

(>550 g/m^2) Towel
Heavy Weft Knitted Printed Three-pick terry Both side Pile

(450-550 g/m^2)
Medium Warp Knitted Towel with Four-pick Terry

(350-450 g/m^2) embroidery
Light Towel Five -pick Terry

(250-350 g/m^2) with
appliques
Six- pick Terry
Table 7.4.2.1 : Classification of Terry Towel

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7.4.3 BASIC PARAMETERS OF TERRYWEAVING
Yarn Count : 10S - 30S (COTTON)
• Ground Yarn : 10/1, 20/2

• Pile Yarn : 24/2, 20/2, 16/1
• Weft Yarn : 10/2, 12/1, 16/1
Note : Doubling and twisting of the yarn is also done for production of terry towel.
TPI: 7-18 (100% cotton)
Fiber: Cotton, Modal, Bamboo, Seawood, Lyocel, Tri-blend bamboo, Silk and cotton blend,
Synthetics microfibers (polyester, nylon), Flax, Cashmere.
Body/Ground Fabric : Cotton, Polyester, Viscose
Pile Height: 0.1 mm - 10 mm (According to buyer requirement)
Pick/Inch : 36 and above
Size Take- up Percentage :
• Pile Yarn - 1.5 %
• Ground Yarn - 4.5%
M/c RPM Weaving : 400 - 650

Ground Warp Beam : Pile warp Beam = 24 : 100
Terry Construction :
3 pick Terry ( Ground ½ rib , pile ½ or 2/1 twill )
4 pick Terry ( Ground mat or basket Weave , Pile 1/3 or 3/1 twill )
Shedding Mechanism : Dobby and Jacquard shedding

Beat up Mechanism : False and true beat up
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7.4.4 Types of yarn Used for terry Weaving in ACS Towel Floor :
Name of the Yarn Count of the Yarn
Ground Yarn 10/1, 20/2
Pile Yarn 24/2, 20/2, 16/1
Weft Yarn 10/2, 12/1, 16/1
Table 7.4.4.1 : Types of yarn for terry weaving
Note:
The microbial resistance can be improved by antimicrobial finishing. Shorter staple cotton fibers
generally used in towels because fine yarns counts are not required. The cotton fibers which are
used in towels have relatively low fiber length,relatively low fiber strength, relatively low maturity
ratio. The micronaire range can be said to be in the middle range
Ranges of cotton fiber properties which are used in toweling fabrics according to US cotton
fiber Chart:
Fabric Type Fiber Length Fiber Strength Micronaire Maturity Ratio
Toweling 0.93 - 1.10 20 - 32 3.5 - 4.9 0.80 - 0.90
Table 7.4.4.2 : Properties of cotton fiber

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7.4.5 Construction:
Terry towels are woven as 2, 3, 4, 5 or more pick terry weave. The most common type is 3 pick
terry toweling. The cross section of a toweling is shown in figure. Warps are divided into two
systems such as pile warp and ground warp, whereas wefts consist of only one system. In basic
Turkish Toweling, front side and back side pile warps and 1st and 2nd ground warp ends from a
2 /1 rib weave with each other. The rib weave which is formed by the pile warps is one pick ahead
of the rib weave which is or made by ground warp ends. Warps are ordered throughout the fabric
width 1:1 or 2:2 pile and ground warps. In 1:1 warp order each ground warp end is followed by a
pile warp while in 2:2 warp order each two ground warp ends are followed by two pile warp ends.
Figure 7.4.5.1 : Construction of terry towel

101
7.5 Terry Weaving:
The production of terry fabrics is a complex process and is only possible on specially equipped
weaving machines. Three yarn systems are woven in the terry loom compared to the two system
types of traditional weaving are ground warp, pile warp and weft. The two warps are processed
simultaneously which are, the ground warp with tightly tensioned ends and the pile warp with
lightly tensioned ends. A special weaving method enables loops to be handled with the lightly
tensioned warp ends on the surface. Ground warps and pile warps are unwound separately, warped
onto two different section beams and sized separately. The processes they undergo show some
differences from each other. Weft or filling yarns are wound onto bobbins in required softness and
lengths. Warps are fed into the loom from two beams. The tension of the pile warp beam is lower
than that of the ground warp beam; therefore the pile warp beam delivers higher length of warps
than the ground warp beam does. A special reed motion lets this extra length of pile warp from
loops.
Figure 7.5.1 : Warp Beams of Terry Weaving Loom
▪ Pile warp tension – 10 CN

▪ Ground warp tension – 17 CN
✓ Measuring Device : Load Cell

102
7.5.2 Shedding:
Pile warp threads from loops and patterns through the shedding motion whereas the ground
warps from the ground with 1/1 plain, 2/1 rib, 2/2 rib, 3/1 rib weaves. The 2/1 rib weave is the
most frequently used for pile and ground warp systems separately in ACS Textiles and Towels
Ltd. There are two types of shedding mechanism is used for terry weaving in ACS Textiles and
Towels Ltd.
1. Dobby shedding mechanism

2. Jacquard shedding mechanism
Figure 7.5.2.1 : Dornier Dobby shedding mechanism
Technical Loom Setting Points:

▪ Maximum capacity if heald frame = 18
▪ Ground warp yarn weave structure = 2/1
▪ Loom Width = 300 cm
▪ Reed Width = 210 cm
▪ Pile Tension = 10 CN
▪ Warp Tension = 17 CN
103
Figure 7.5.2.2 : Summum Jacquard shedding mechanism
Figure 7.5.2.3 : Electrical Jacquard Shedding parts

104
7.5.3 Picking :
7.5.3.1 Rapier Picking:

Rapiers are popular in terry production because of the flexibility they offer. Rapiers are two hooks
which carry weft across warp sheet. The first giver hook takes the weft pick from the yarn feeder
and carriers it to the centre of the warp width. The taker hook moves from the other side of machine
to the centre. There, the two hooks meet and the weft pick is transferred to the taker hook. After that
the giver hook returns empty to the side it came from, and the taker hook carries the weft to the
opposite side.
7.5.3.2 Airjet Picking:

In airjet weaving a puff of compressed air carries the weft yarn across the warp sheet. There are
relay nozzles which are arranged in a definite order according to fabric width. These nozzles are
connected to the main nozzles in a group. The pick feeders also work with air and winds according
to the fabric width. On the side where the pick arrives there are optical sensors which control the
arrival of the filling picks.
7.5.4 Beat-Up:
The loops in terry fabrics are formed with a special reed motion. The motion vary according to
pick number per loop. Depending on the weave, loops are formed on one or both sides the fabrics.
The disadvantage of this system is that the friction which takes place during forward- backward
motion of the ends can lead to end breakage.
✓ For terry towel production beat up is a very important factor
• 3 Pick Terry – 2 false beat up,1 true beat up
• 4 Pick Terry – 3 false beat up, 1 true beat up
• 5 Pick Terry – 4 false beat up, 1 true beat up
7.5.5 Selvedge Formation :

A length wise edge of a woven fabric is called selvedge. The main purpose of the selvedge is to
ensure that the edge of fabric will not tear when the cloth is undergoing the stresses and strains of
the finishing process. This is achieved by making the selvedge area stronger than the body of cloth
using heavier and plied warp yarns, increasing warp yarns per inch and applying different weaves.
Two types of selvedge are formed during terry weaving in ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd.
Leno selvedge :
A leno weave at the edge of fabric locks in the warp yarns by twisting the last two warp back and
forth around each pick. They are made with special leno harness.
105
Tuck-in selvedge :
The fringed edge of the filling yarns are woven back into the body of the fabric using a
special tuck-in device. As a result, the filling density is doubled in the selvedge area.
Note: As the width of towel is usually much narrower than that of the weaving machine
width, more than one towel may be woven at the same time. Thus, selvedge are formed
not only at side but also several selvedges should be formed on the sides of each towel
panels woven together.
7.6 TERRY DESIGNING

Terry fabrics are often very complex with different coloured warp ends in combination with loop
patterns. They are subjected to changing fashions and the market is constantly demanding new
qualities and designs.The rapid development of electronics has enabled fabric designers to produce
completely different patterns. Via a servo motor, the beat-up position for each pick and thus the
type of terry and pile height can be freely programmed from one pick group to another. This gives
the fabric designer a broad range of patterning options and the weaving engineer the weaving
structure for improving fabric performance, because transition from one pattern element to the next
can be woven with greater precision. At each full beat-up, two pile loops of different heights can
be formed in the filling direction. For two short loops the pile yarns are woven into both loose pick
groups and for one large loop into the second loose pick group only. Microprocessor control allows
the loose pick distance to be programmed easily and individually for each pick. The loop formation
system with full electronic control lets to alter the height of the loop by accompanying the electronic
weft ratio variator device on jacquard looms program different weft ratios. By this method, different
heights of loops can be achieved in the same shed. Due to this reason In ACS Textile and Towels Ltd
different types of processes is done.
7.6.1 Shearing :
Shearing is applied to the pile fabric, by passing it over a cylinder with blades like a giant
cylindrical lawnmower. The fabric is then brushed with bristles set in a cylinder to remove cut bites
of fiber. Brushing leaves the surface fiber lying in one so care must be taken to have all the fabrics
in the same batch laid out in the same direction, or light will reflect off various pieces differently.
The other side of terry is shorn to give the velour effect
106
The main fabric is used in terry towel is cotton. All the chemical processes are planned by
considering sensitivity to various types of chemicals. Processing is generally followed by :
o Pretreatment
o Coloration ( Dyeing & Printing )
o Finishing
Pretreatment :
• Desizing
• Scouring
• Bleaching
Coloration :
• Fabric Dyeing
• Printing
• Yarn Dyeing
Finishing :
1. Chemical Treatment
▪ Softening
▪ Hydrophilic Treatment
▪ Antimicrobial
2. Mechanical Treatment
▪ Shearing
▪ Raising
107
Chapter 08: Process in Dyeing Preparatory Unit
8.1. Singeing:
Singeing is a process for removing hairy/projectile fiber from the fabric surface.
Desizing:
Desizing is a process for removing sizing material from the fabric by chemical treatment.
Equipment Used:
OSTHOFF singing and Desizing machine.
8.1.1 Key Accessories:

• Fork lifter, wooden plate, sewing machine, A-frame or batchers etc. are the key accessories
for singing for white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed fabric (PC-015)
• In addition to the aforesaid tools mixing tank, reserve tank, pH meter polyethene paper,
rotation station, hand gloves, eye protecting glass, clip/finger clip etc are some additional
tools/accessories used for the following fabric process-
✓ For all cotton color fabric..

✓ For all cotton color peach finish fabric Singing and Desizing for yarn dyed fabric
and PC/CVC fabric.
✓ Singing and cold bleach for PC/ CVC fabric Only
✓ Desizing for PC/CVC/yarn dyed peach finish fabric
✓ Singing and cold bleach for Bull-Twill (Heavy fabric)
8.1.2 Material and Chemical used:
• Steam
• Compressed air,
• Water
• Natural gas
• De sizing agent,
• Wetting agent,
• Sequestering agent.
108
Fig 8.1.3 : Singeing and desizing machine
Machine -1
• Machine name: Singeing - Desizing
• Brand name: Bezimac
• Type: Semiautomatic
• Machine speed: 60-80 m/min
• Origin:Germany
Machine-2
• Brand name: Osth-off
• Type: Automatic
• Machine Speed: 75m/min
• Machine Pressure : 18m/bar
• Working temp : Max 145°c
• Origin : Germany
109
8.1.4 Check list before production:
Operator must check the following before starting production of the fabric named bellow:
• All cotton colored fabric = Singing & Desizing

• All cotton colored peach finish fabric = Desizing Yarn dyed & PC/C.V.C fabric =
Singing & Desizing
• PC/CVC fabric = Singing & Cold bleach.
• PC/CVC/yarn dyed peach finish fabric = Desizing
• Bull-Twill/Heavy fabric = Singing & Cold bleach. a White cotton fabric & Special yarn
dyed (PC-015) fabric = Singing (Without Chemical)
8.1.5 Item to be checked:

• Machine parameters are set.
• Manpower is available.
• Chemicals are available. All accessories are available.
• Fabric Stitch with tape fabric is done. Sewing thread (cone) is available.
8.1.6 Operation Procedure:

• The sewing man stitches the fabric with tape fabric. He must be careful in stitching the
face side of fabric will the face side of the same fabric
• Operator turns the machine (OSTHOFF SENGE) on and set the machine at desired
speed given below:
Table 8.1.6.1 : Machine Speed for different Fabric
• Processing continues until a frame or a batcher is complete. After completion of the batcher
the operator stop the machine and warps the batcher with polythene paper and set it into the
rotation station for at least 6-8 hours. In case of singing and cold bleach of P.C/CVC fabric
the polythene paper warped batcher is set into the rotation station for 24 hours. But in case
of only singing of white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed (PC- 015) fabric the batcher
need not to set into the rotation station. In the rotation station the batcher rotates and the
chemicals distributed equally in the fabric.
110
• The quality of the product depends on various parameters like the machine speed,
temperature, pressure, flame intensity, chemical level burner position and pH value etc.
The operator must check the above parameter carefully during processing to avoid any.
8.1.7 Product quality check:

The operator also check the cosmetic defect like projectile hairy fiber by parallelly looking at
fabric, fabric position, crease on the fabric, fabric sewing and any other abnormalities that can be
detect by naked eye.
Defect during production the operator will check frequently the pH level of the solution by pH
8.1.8 Q.C sample test:

Quality control department follow the pickup percent test method to verify the quality during the
process. This is done once in a month or after every maintenance. But in case of only singing of
white cotton fabric and yarn dyed fabric (PC-015) fabric it is not needed.
8.2 Scouring and Bleaching

8.2.1 Scouring:
Removing wax and oil by chemical treatment
8.2.2 Bleaching:
Removing of natural nitrogenous coloring compound, dirt, dust, broken parts of seed or leaf and
whitening of fabric by chemical treatment
8.2.3 Washing:
Removing size chemical and spot of fabric and increasing absorbency.
8.2.4 Equipment Used:
GOOLER scouring and bleaching machine.
8.2.5 Key Accessories:
Mixing tank, reverse tank, conical flax, pipette, burette, acid, Potassium permanganate
Phenolphthalein, eye protecting and hand gloves, sewing machine, boume meter, handle for
carrying batch/A frame fork lift
111
8.2.6 Material/chemical used:

Water, steam, compressed air, NaOH, H202, stabilizer, wetting agent, detergent,
sequestering agent, and dewatering agent.
A chemical solution is prepared for fabric processing as per recipe provided below:
8.2.7 Scouring recipe for PC/CVC:

112
Table 8.2.7.1 : Scouring Recipe

8.2.8 Washing recipe:
Washingis done with hot water only detergent (2/3) gm/kg of fabric. May be used for medium and
heavy color fabric.
8.2.9 Titration:
Titration is the process for identifying the amount of chemical present in the solution. The test
chemical reagent 0.1 N HCL, 25% H2SO4, 0.1 N K2MNO4, are prepared by the QC group.
8.2.9.1 Titration procedure for NaOH:

Take 1 ml sample of the chemical solution from the mother tank into a chemical flask Then add 25
ml of water with the solution and stir for few seconds. Next add 1-2 drops of reagent onto the
sample solution, this will turn the solution into light pink color. Then the chemical flask with the
sample is set under a burette containing 0.1N HCL acid next HCL added to the sample solution
and drop at a time until the light pink color disappears. The no of 0.1 N HCL drops required is the
reading that is used to calculate the amount of NaOH present in the mixing tank.
8.2.9.2 Titration procedure for H2O2
Take 1 ml sample of the chemical solution from the mother tank to a chemical flask. Then add 10
ml of 25% H2SO4 and 15 ml of water with the solution and stir it for few seconds. Then the
chemical flask with the sample is set under a burette containing 0.1 N K2MNO4 next 0.1 N
K2MNO4 is added to the sample solution one drop at a time until the solution turn into light pink
color. The no of 0.1 N K2MNO4 drops required in the reading that is used to calculate the amount
of H202 present in the mixing tank. 100% H2O2gm per 1 liter of solution is present in the mixing
tank= 3.4% reading.
113
Figure 8.2.10 : Scouring and Bleaching M/C
• Machine name: Scouring-bleaching m/c
• Brand name: Goller
• Machine Speed: 70m/min
• Origin: Germany
8.2.11 Item to be selected:
• Machine parameter section are set

• Chemicals are available
• All accessories are available.
• Fabric stitch with tape fabric is done.
• Sewing thread are available.
114
8.2.12 Production quality check:
During production the operator will check frequently the pH level of the solution by pH or litmus
paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defects like spots on the fabric, fabric position,
fabric sewing, selvage torn or any other abnormalities that can be detected by naked eye.
8.2.13 Quality control sample test:
QC department follow the pick percentage test method to verify the quality during the process.
The other test that the QC department does for the mercerizing process is size test, width test,
fabric whiteness and absorbency test.
8.3. Mercerizing:
Mercerizing is a process for increasing dye absorbency, strength and lusture of the fabric by
chemical treatment
8.3.1 Equipment used:

The GOLLER Mercerizing range machine.
Fig 8.3.1.1 : Mercerizing machine

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• Brand name: Goller
• Machine Speed :75m/min
• Origin: Germany
8.3.2 Key accessories:

The necessary tools or accessories used for the mercerizing process are given bellow-
Sewing machine, sewing thread, cylinder,Baum meter,A-frame, handles for carriage, mixing tank,
reserve tank, hand gloves, eye protecting gloves, clip/finger clip etc
The following fabrics go through the mercerizing process-
• All cotton fabric.
• TC/CVC fabric.
• Bull-Twill fabric.
8.3.3 Materials/Chemicals used:

The materials and chemicals used in ACS Textile and Towels Ltd for the GOLLER mercerizing
range machine cotton fabric TC or CVC fabric and Bull-Twill fabric are described bellow-
Table 8.3.3.1 : List of chemicals

116
8.3.4 Check list before production:
Table 8.3.4.1 : Technical Parameter
8.3.5 Item to be selected:
• Machine parameter section are set

• Chemicals are available
• Fabric stitch with tape fabric is done.
• Sewing thread is available.

Operator turns the machine (GOLLER Mercerizing range machine) on and set the machine at the
desired speed given bellow. Processing continues until a frame or a batcher is complete or there
arise any problem eg, electrical, mechanical or utility.
Figure 8.3.6.1 : Standard M/c Speed

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NOTE : The quality of the product depends on various machines parameters the machine speed
pressure, temperature, pH, chemical level, tension etc. Operator must check these parameters in
every 10 min and also check the follow the chemical frequently through the pump.
8.3.7 Product quality Check :

During production the operator will check frequently the pH level of the solution by pH or litmus
paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defects like spots on the fabric, fabric position,
fabric sewing, selvage torn or any other abnormalities that can be detected by naked eye.
8.3.8 Quality control sample test:
QC department follow the pick percentage test method to verify the quality during the process.
The other test that the QC department does for the mercerizing process is size test, width test,
fabric whiteness and absorbency test. Thus test are done in every thousand meters.
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Chapter 09: Process in dyeing Unit
9.1 Reactive dyeing:
Equipment:
Monforts Pad-steam Dyeing Machine
Key accessories:
Mixer, bucket, A-frames, Jack for A-frame, Over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine,
scissors.
9.1.1 Solid dyeing with reactive dyes (Cold Pad Batch or CPB process):
• Solid dyeing with reactive dye by CPB process is a batch process in which the fixation
of dyes is carried out at low temperature (ie. 25-28 °C) in the pressure of highly alkaline
medium and by providing execs time (i.e. more than 8hours)
• In CPB process the most important future is dyeing liquor and alkali solution which is
prepared separately in separate tank than it is pumped by a dosing pump into the
padding through with a color alkali ratio of 4:1. Fabric is impregnate with the liquor
relatively at a high speed and squeeze by means of padding mangle to remove the
surplus liquor and to live the dyeing liquor onto the fabric surface. After padding the
fabric is winded on the A-frame in wet form and on completion of one batch. It is
wrapped with the water proof material in order to prevent evaporation and stored for
more than 12 hours. Finally it is washed in normal way.
• For storage batching stationed may be used where it should rotate at a rate of 5 to 7
revelation per minute.
9.1.2 Material/Chemical used:
The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with reactive dye (CPB process) are describe
belt Fabric, reactive dyes, reduction inheritor, urea, alkali and additional chemicals and axillaries
for e.g water softening agent, wetting agent, reduction inheritor (if required) etc.
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9.1.3 Sample of guide recipe:
• Reactive dyes
• Reduction inhibitor
• Urea
• Alkali-1
• Alkali-2

▪ After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible to collect and
weight out the dyes and chemical and to prepare the color as describe in preparation of
dyeing liquor.
▪ In trial normally (5-10) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade before starting
production. Trial result can be checked by drawing sample of (6"x4") approximately and
by giving it after treatment as follows:
▪ Warping the fabric on a glass rod.
▪ Covering it by polythene paper to make it air tight
▪ Witting for 16 min
▪ Opening the polythene paper and hanging it on a beaker having a small quality of water
at a temperature of (53-60) °C in such a way that it should not touch the surface of
water.
▪ Placing the beaker in microwave woven for 4 min at a time of not more than80°C.
▪ washing or soaping the fabric in pilot plant result
▪ Ironing and condition of fabric. This can be compared with the ALD by using data color
system. Based on the production officer is etherized to make necessary change in recipe in
order to obtain the least deviation during bulk production. (ie. AE ≥ 1.0).
9.1.5 Preparation of dyeing liquor:
▪ Weigh out accurately the dyes and chemical as per recipe given by production officer.Pour
the dye into the stock color tank having some amount of water & water softening agent (If
applicable) slowly and gradually and allowed it to stiffer for about 5-10 min. for pastel and
light shade it is advisable to dissolved separately in a bucket or beaker before adding in the
tank.
▪ Extra care must be taken in dissolving that the dye having least g/l should be dissolved
first and then in ascending order.
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▪ Add reduction inhibitor into the mixer which must be pre dissolved in hot water before
addition Urea may be added directly into the stock tank or mixer along with the dyes but it
depends on the amount
▪ Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having water approximately 4th of total liquor) by
using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for dark shade).
▪ Additional chemical and auxiliaries (e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent, sequestering
agent etc.) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per instructed by responsible
officer
9.1.6 Preparation of alkali:
• Weigh out accurately the alkali as per recipe given.
• Dissolved the alkali in a bucket or mixer under constant stirring until the un dissolved
particles disappears. If two type of alkali are used than it should be dissolved separately.
• Transfer the alkali solution in baby tank and finally level the solutionas
Fig 9.1.6.1 : Continuous Pad-Steam dyeing Machine

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9.2 Disperse Dyeing (PDB Process)
Equipment:
Monforts-Pad-Thermosol Dyeing Machine (P-Th 1) and (P-Th 2)
Key accessories:
A-frames, Jack for A-frame, over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine, scissors, mixer,
bucket
9.2.1 Solid dyeing with disperse dyes (Pad Dry Bake or PDB process):
• Solid dyeing with disperse dye by PDB process is a process in which the fixation of dyes
is carried out by means of using relatively high temperature dry air in process of alkali along
with the dyeing liquor after padding and drying operation.
• In PDB process the fabric (in open with form) is impregnated with the dyeing liquor in
process of alkali along with the dyes. The fabric is then squeezed by means of padding
mangles to remove the surplus liquor and to level the dyeing into the surface of the fabric
which after passing through airing zone is subjected for drying Initially it dried by passing
through the IR section in order to remove the sufficient amount of moisture and to raise the
temperature of surface of fabric. Complete drying is carried out in hot flue by means of
circulation of hot air. Final fixation is carried out at relatively high temperature in curing
thermex (i.e. 150°C-170°C)
The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with disperse dye (PDB process) are
describe bellow-
• Fabric, disperse dyes, anti migrating agent, dispersing agent, leveling agent, water softening
agent (if required), acid other axillaries e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent, etc.
o Disperse dye
o Dispersing agent
o Anti migrating agent Acid
o Acid
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• Weigh out accurately the dye and chemical as per recipe given.
• Add dispersing and leveling agent and water softening agent (if applicable) into the
mixer having some amount of water at room temperature at constant stirring.
• Poor the dye into the mixer slowly and gradually allowed it to stir for about 5-10 minute
for pastels and light shade. It is advisable to dissolve the dye separately in a bucket or
beaker before adding into the mixer.
• Extra care must be taking in dissolving that the dyes having least g/1 should be
dissolving first and than in ascending order.
• Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having water approximately 1/4t of total liquor)
by using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for dark shades).Add the anti migrating agent
(advantageous if pre dissolved) into the mixer or directly into the stock tank under
constant stirring Add the acid if required.
• Additional chemical and auxiliaries (for e.g. wetting agent, antifoaming agent,
sequestering agent etc) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per instructed by
responsible officer.
9.2.5 Carbonization:
Carbonization is a process in which one component of blended fabric (normally cotton part) is
dissolved by using a solvent in order to check the individual property of other component .In
practice a small washes wet piece of blended is dipped in a solution of sulfuric acid having a
concentration of (80:20) and temperature ≥ 15°c is used to dissolve the cotton portion of PC / CVC
blended fabric which is helped in studding the actual shade of polyester portion after completion
of polyester dyeing with disperse dyes or one bath (Disperse / Reactive) dyeing.
9.3 One Bath Dyeing Process:

Equipment:
Monforts-Pad-Thermosol Dyeing Machine
Key accessories:
A-frames, Jack for A-frame, Over lock sewing machine, normal sewing machine, scissors,
mixer, bucket
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9.3.1 One bath solid dyeing process (Disperse/Reactive):
• Solid dyeing of T/C with Disperse / Reactive dyes by Pad-Dry-Brake process is a process
in which the fixation of both dye is carried out by means of using reactively high
temperature dry air after padding and drying process
• In one bath solid dyeing process of T/Cfabric with Disperse / Reactive dyes the fabric (in
open with form) is impregnated with the dyeing liquor in presence of alkali dispersing
agent along with the dyes. The fabric is then squeezed by means of
• Padding mangle to remove the surplus liquor and to level the dyeing liquor into the
surface of the fabric which after passing through the airing zone is subjected for drying.
• Initially it is dried by passing through the IR section in order to remove the sufficient
amount of moisture and to raise the temperature of surface of fabric. Complete drying is
carried in hot flue by means of circulation of hot air.
• Final fixation is carried out at relatively high temperature in curing thermex
• Impregnate with dye and squeezing of surplus liquor
• Partial dyeing of fabric in IR section
• Complete drying of fabric in hot flue
• Fixation of dye by means of relatively very high temperature with dry air
The material and chemical used for one bath solid dyeing process are describe bellow-
• Fabric, disperse dyes, reactive dyes, reduction inheritor, anti migrating agent, urea, alkali,
dispersing agent, leveling agent, wetting agent, antifoaming agent, sequestering agent etc.
o Disperse dyes
o Reactive dyes
o Wetting agent
o Anti migrating agent
o Urea Alkali
o Dispersing agent
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Trial procedure:
1. After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible to
collect and weight out the dyes and chemical and to prepare the color as describe in
preparation of dyeing liquor.
2. First of all a 10 meters trial is conducted after adjusting it confirmation is done. In

confirmation normally (50-300) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade after
trialing effect (change in shade comes during running). An additional washed tap may
also be used along with the actual fabric in order to get the actual result after trialing.
3. At the completion of a trial operator is responsible to do the CPS (After treatment)

either in pilot plant or on pad steam dyeing machine, production officer compare the
trial result with the ALD in shade continuity card in data color system by using
particular type of illumination (As per the requirement of customer) based on the
result. Production officer is authorized to make necessaries change in recipe in order to
obtain the lest distribution during bulk production.
Fig 9.3.4.1 : Sample exhaust dyeing machine

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Fig 9.3.4.2 : Pad thermsol dyeing machine
• Weigh out accurately the dye and chemical as per recipegiven.

• Add dispersing and leveling agent and water softening agent (if applicable) into the mixer
having some amount of water at room temperature at constant stirring. Poor the disperse dyes
into the color tank slowly and gradually allowed it to stir for about 5-10 minute for pastels
and light shade. It is advisable to dissolve the dye separately in a bucket orbeaker before
adding into the mixer. Extra care must be taking in dissolving that the dyes having least g/1
should be dissolving first and then in ascending order.
• Add reactive dyes either directly or after dissolving in a bucketto the mixer under constant
stirring
• Add urea either directly into the stock tank or into the mixer along with the dyes depend
upon the amount.
• Add the migrating inhibitor or anti migrating agent either directly into the stock tank or into
the mixer (Advantageous if pre dissolved). o Transfer the liquor into the stock tank (having
water approximately 1/4th of total liquor) by using a Bolton cloth (not applicable for
darkshades).
• Add pre dissolved in last before level the liquor.
• Additional chemical and auxiliaries (fore.g wetting agent, antifoaming agent, sequestering
agent etc) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per instructed by responsible
officer.
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9.3.6 Product Quality Checked:
9.3.6.1 Cosmetic defect:

During production operator responsible to check the cosmetic defect like spots,coloring spots,
crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled selvedge or any other abnormalitic that can be
detected with naked eyes and also responsible to mention that's defect in the process rout card.
9.3.6.2 Shade checking:

During the production the operator draws a sample after each (500-1000) at the stitching joints
(Expect for peach fabric at least 2-3 meter away from the stitching joint) and checked the shade
after treatment as per process requirement listed below:
9.4 Pigment Dyeing
9.4.1 Solid dyeing with pigment dyeing:
▪ Solid dyeing of cotton and blended fabric with pigment is a surface phenomenon in
which the pigment are bond the fiber in the presence of an adhesive known as binder,
usually fixation is carried out by means of using high temperature dry air after padding
and drying operation.
▪ In dyeing of common fabric with pigment the fabric (in open width form) is impregnated
with the dyeing liquor in presence of hinder along with the pigment
▪ Final fixation is carried out at relatively high temperature in curing thermex ( 150 -170) °C
▪ Impregnate with dye and squeezing of surplus liquor
▪ Partial dyeing of fabric in IR section
▪ Complete drying of fabric in hot flue
▪ Fixation of dye by means of relatively very high temperature with dry air
The material and chemical and for the solid dyeing with pigment are describe bellow Fabric,
pigment, hinder, anti migrating agent, wetting agent, antifoaming agent etc.
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• Pigment
• Binder
• Antimigrating agent
• Wetting agent AntiStriking agent
• Antifoaming agent

Trial procedure:
• After receiving the dye line and requisition form the color man is responsible so collect and
weight out the dyes unit chemical and to prepare the color as describe in preparation of
dyeing liquor.First of all a 10 meters trial is conducted after adjusting it confirmation is done
in confirmation normally (50-100) meter of actual fabric is used to check the shade after
trialing effect (change in shade comes during running). An additional washed tap may alsa
be used along with the actual fabric in order to get the actual resalt after trialing.
• Atthe completion of a trial operator is responsible to do the CPS (After treatment) either in
pilot plant or on pad steam dyeing machine, production officer compare the trial result with
the ALD in shade continuity card in data color system by usin particular type of illumination
(As per the requirement of customer) based on the result Production officer is authorized
to make necessaries change in recipe in order to obtain the lest distribution during bulk
production.

• Weigh out accurately the dyes and chemical as per recipe given by productionofficer.
• Pour the pigment into the color tank by using bottom cloth having same
• amount of water at room temperature under constant stirring
• Add the anti migrating agent (advantageous if predissolved) into the mixer or directly
into the stock tank under constant stirring
• Then add binder by filtering into color tank at constant stirring
• Additional chemical and auxiliaries (eg. wetting agent, antifoaming agent,sequestering
agent etc.) may also be added before leveling of liquor as per instructed by responsible
officer.
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9.4.6 Product Quality Checked:
9.4.6.1 Cosmetic defect:

During production operator responsible to check the cosmetic defect like spots, coloring spots,
crease mark, weaving faults, color flies, curled selvedge or any other abnormalities that can be
detected with naked eyes and also responsible to mention that's defect in the process rout card.
9.4.6.2 Shade checking:
• During the production the operator draws a sample after each (500-1000) at the stitching
joints (Expect for peach fabric at least 2-3 meter away from the stitching joint) and checked
the shade after treatment as per process requirement listed below:
• Production officer compare the sample shade with the approved lab dip (ALD) after the
after treatment process. This can be done either by using spectrophotometer or
physically with naked eyes as per customer required illumination.
• For darker shade normally double padding process is used due toheavy gm/1 pigments
so checking of shade is not required during single padding operation which normally less
than half of total gm/1. Production officer should be careful during doub padding
process about shade and list. Operation procedure for double padding process will be
the same as the single padding process.
9.5 Dyeing Process in Pad-Steam Machine
9.5.1 Material / Chemical used:

The material and chemical used for the solid dyeing with chemical pad-steam process are
describe bellow-
Steam, compressed air, gas, detergent reducing agent, alkali, acid, ionic or non ionic salt,
reduction inhibitor etc.
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Figure 9.5.1.1 : Chemical Pad-steam M/C
9.5.2 Preparation of chemical for development process:
Preparation of chemical:
Recipe:
• Gluber salt: 250 gm/l
• Reduction inhibitor: 5-10 g/l
• Caustic soda: 6-12 g/l
• Soda ash: 10-20 g/1
• Sodium hydrosulfite: 50 gm/l
• Dispersing agent: 3 gm/l

• Weight out the chemical as per recipe given by production officer.
• Add the gluber salt and dispersing agent in stock tank gradually having ½ of liquor of total
requirement under constant stirring.
• Add the pieces of ice or use chilled water in order to keep the temperature of
• liquor less than 15 °C.
• Add the pre dissolved dispersing agent and caustic flask in stock tank separately.
• Make up the level up to desired amount
• Add sodium hydrosulfite into the stock tank just before stirring it into the delivery tank.
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Chapter 10: Process in Printing Section
Printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed
fabrics the color is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is
related to dyeing but in dyeing properly, the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one color;
whereas in printing one or more colors are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined
patterns.
In ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd. , there are 3 types of printing machines.They are -
(1) Rotary printing machine

(2) Flatbed printing machine
(3) Digital printing machine
10.1 Rotary printing
The rotary screen is a screen in a cylindrical form. The color is applied from inside while the rotary
screen is revolving. Rotary screen printing uses cylindrical screens as opposed to flat screens.
Again, a separate screen is required for each color of the design being printed. More complex
designs require the application of many different colors. The screens rotate in contact with the
substrate and the print paste is fed from inside the screens. The paste is forced from out of the
inside of the screen by means of a metal squeegee blade. Again the fabric is adhered to a
continuous washable rubber blanket, although in rotary screen printing the fabric and substrate run
continually through the machine as opposed to a start stop motion in flat screen printing. The
printed fabric is again taken off the end of the machine and dried whilst the rubber blanket is
washed and re‐gummed.
Fig.10.1.1.1: Cross-sectional diagram of rotary screen printing

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Why rotary printing method is used instead of flatbed printing method,
In spite of printing on shorter width fabric, rotary printing method is more favorable for
the industry for its’ cost effectiveness.
So; when printing repeat size doesn’t require a large area like a flatbed printing method as well as
it can be accomplished within the width limit of rotary screen and mostly printing is applied to
the full width ,at that time, this method is highly appreciated. Moreover,a continuous process is
applied ,which can produce a larger length of printed fabric.
10.1.1 Machine description
*Brand Name : Zimmer

*No. Of m/c 01
*Capacity : 6 colors
installed,capacity up to
12 colors
*Origin : Austria
*Laser Exposing m/c: CST laser exposing m/c
*Working width : 310 cm
*Screen size : 3 repeat (roundings) Fig.10.1.1.2 : Rotary printing machine
*Speed : Up to 120 m/min

*Printing length : Up to 22 m (per repeat)
*Roller screen : It is mainly made of nickel, which consists of numerous holes.

Highest,12 roller screens can be adjusted during the printing process.
Each roller applies particular print paste through its’ perforated
designed portion.
10.1.2 Uses of chemicals
Sodium Bi Reactive fixing agent/Alkali

Carbonate
Urea Hygroscopic agent
Revatol XP Anti-reducing agent
Thickener Viscosity producer for printing paste
Table 10.1.2.1: Uses of chemicals

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10.1.3 Process flow of rotary printing
Fig.10.1.3.1: Process flow of rotary printing

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10.1.4 Print paste application on fabric
Fabric is fed into the printer section
The fabric passes under the rotating screens
Pumping of printing paste
Squeezing of print paste
The fabric passes into drying woven
Curing and Washing
The processes are described below:
Processes Description
Fabric is fed into the printer The fabric to be printed is fed under uniform tension
section into the printer section of the machine. Its back is
usually coated with an adhesive, which causes it to
adhere to a conveyor printing blanket
Fabric is fed into the printer The fabric is then passed under the rotating screens
section through which the printing paste is pumped.
Pumping of printing paste Printing paste is automatically pumped from the

pressure tank
Squeezing of print paste A squeeze in each rotary screen forces the paste through
the screen onto the fabric as it moves along at rates of up
to 100 yards per minute
The fabric passes into drying The fabric is passed into the drying oven for drying
woven
Curing and Washing Curing and washing are done as a part of finishing
Table 10.1.4.1: Print paste application process on fabric
Normally,darker shade is applied as the first color.Perspectively,upto 12 colors can be printed

through roller screen.
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Fabric running
Final printed fabric Initial fabric
No. of drums(containing print paste)

Fig.10.1.4.2: Print paste application on fabric in rotary printing
10.2 Flatbed printing
Flatbed Printing is an automated form of printing on a silkscreen that was previously done by
hand. Instead of printing an endless pattern, flat screens produce prints with a specific, fixed area.
Each color and design theme has its own screen. Because the squeegees may be used several
times on each screen, a considerable volume of print paste can be applied.
10.2.1 Working procedure
• First, the cloth is glued to a moving belt on a flat bed screen printing machine. Lower the
front screen of the machine to the printing area and use a squeegee to remove the printing
paste.
• Then, lower the screen and advance the belt on which the cloth is bonded to the repetition
point. The printed cloth is put through its paces and then dried at the end of the process.
• In a flat bed screen printing press, only one color may be printed. In order to complete
printing, the pattern, the dried cloth must go through a second printing cycle after it has
been printed with the first color.It can go through up to 12 cycles,hence;12 different
colors can be applied as print paste.
10.2.2 When flatbed printing is used
Mainly; for larger repeat size, this process is used.In ACS,most of the towel printing is
accomplished here. Because, flatbed printing method has enough penetration ability
than
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the other methods and doesn’t create uneven print on towels like digital printing.So,it is
a suitable option for applying on pile fabrics.
Moreover;fabric is fixed here,which is not observed in the rotary printing section.For this, piles of
the towel experience friction on the contact point of the roller and the fabric.That’s why; for towel
printing,flatbed method is highly preferable than others.
This process is also favorable for larger bed sheet printing,which has a large repeat unit.In that
case,digital printing may be cost effective,so the flatbed process is economically applied as per
buyers’ requirement.
*Brand Name : Buser

*No. Of m/c 01
*Print width : 118 inches(max)
*Print area : 44 meters + 2 meters
*Capacity : Up to 12 colors
*Laser exposing m/c: CST laser exposing m/c
*Repeat size : 60-120 inch
*Screen type : Mesh fabric(nylon) is used as
screen; which has porous
Fig.10.2.3.1: Flatbed printing m/c
structure to pass the print paste
through the design section.
10.2.4 Repeat size & no. of colors required
Repeat size(inches) Colors
60,65,70,75(4 sizes) 12
80,83(2 sizes) 11
90 10
95,100(2 sizes) 9
105 8
110,115,120(3 sizes) 7
Table 10.2.4.1: Repeat size & no. of colors required

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10.2.5 Process flow of flatbed printing
Fig.10.2.5.1: Process flow of flat bed printing

137
10.2.6 Print paste application on fabric
(1) The selection of the fabric and the printed design.

(2) The choice of the size and arrangement of the design’s repeat rectangle.
(3) The necessary color separation of the design & squeezing the colors though
screens.
Fig.10.2.6.1: Print paste application using flatbed screen
10.3 Digital printing
Digital printing is a process of printing on textiles using inkjet technology to print colorants onto
fabric. This process allows for single pieces, mid to small-run cycle production and even long-
runs as an alternative option to screen printed fabric.Digital/ink jet printing is a type of
computerized process that recreates a digital image or sample image by propelling droplets of
colors onto fabric.
10.3.1 How it works

The dyes to be printed are in the form of inks rather than pastes, and the viscosity of the inks is
low compared to other printing systems.Because,print paste can’t be sprayed through nozzles for
its’ higher viscosity.
Digital printing involves the deposition of small jets (as ink droplets) of a colored ink onto the
fabric.The jet of ink/color is controlled by a computer as required by the digital image. Rather
than the traditional primary colors red, green and blue used in dyeing and printing,this printing is
based upon the colors CYMK,which are-
• Cyan Magenta
• Yellow Black
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Although there are four main colors, the color palette is quite restrictive,but ‘spot’ colors can be
added by the printer since print heads/nozzles offer the capability of dispensing 6, 8 or even 12
colors during printing.In ACS,mainly up to 8 colors are used.
Fig.10.3.1.1: Working process of digital printing
10.3.2 When digital printing is used
Normally,the digital printing process is not performed as it is not cost effective like the other
methods if a small amount is produced. Moreover,printing on towels requires higher squeezing
to penetrate paste through the yarns,so it is not applicable for pile fabrics.
It is basically used for quick sample making as well as bulk production as per buyers'
requirements.High quality and shade variety on printed fabrics are produced. ACS mostly
prepares exportable bed sheets,quilt covers on this machine.
10.3.3 Machine description
01 *Brand Name : MS JPK EVO(2014)

*No. Of m/c 01
*Origin : Italy
*No. Of nozzle/head: 256
*Head/color 4
*M/C color capacity : 8 colors.
Total capacity=(8*4)=32
*Color stroke : Up to 4 strokes according
to shade and color type. Fig.10.3.3.1: Printing m/c(MS JPK EVO)
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02 *Brand Name : MS POWER-D

*No. Of m/c : 01
*Origin : Italy
*Color capacity: Unlimited
*Version : 2021
*M/c speed : Very slower than
the other one.So,
higher cost for less
time effectiveness.
Fig.10.3.3.2: Digital printing (MS POWER-D)
10.3.4 Process flow of digital printing & process description
Machine
Process:
Fabric
Process:
Fig.10.3.4.1: Process flow of digital printing method
In machine process,
> Nozzle test means examining either it is possible to spray color or not.If the nozzle head
is blocked and color temperature is improper;printing can’t be accomplished in the
right way.Higher temperature may drip off excess color, whereas,lower temperature may lead to color
blockage into the nozzle because of higher viscosity.
> Cleaning solution: Clean JET Plus is used for head cleaning and removal of nozzle
blockage if necessary.
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> Image,which is selected for printing, is transferred to computerized sector to

calculate data for colors. From the image,a number of colors are selected based on
CYMK.
In fabric process,
> Grey fabric was processed before printing (as sample and after approval, bulk was
produced).
> Bleaching/OBA(Optical Brightening Agent) is applied for removing natural color
from fabric.
> Then,mercerizing(swelling in 18% sodium hydroxide) procedure is accomplished
for incorporating lustrous reflection of fabric.
> Chemical padding (urea,resist salt,water etc.) is the last process on fabric before digital
printing.This process is required as there are no extra chemicals and color may wash
out for that.
After completion of these processes,print is applied onto the fabric in a synchronized way and
printed fabric is formed.
10.3.5 Advantages of digital printing
▪ The best aspect of digital printing technology is that there is no limitation on the usage
of colors or repeat size. Multiple color shades can be printed on the fabric at a
time, which is not the case with traditional printing techniques. The digital textile printing
system can supposedly produce 16 million colors and shades. Hence, the process is time
saving and cost effective.
▪ It allows the user to print quickly and as little as required, and with high rate of accuracy.
While in the case of traditional printing, a minimum quantity has to be printed. Thus the
overall cost of producing a sample is considerably reduced. Moreover, any corrections or
modifications can be made without additional cost. This promotes timely delivery, and
reduces the need for inventory.
• Pollution from textile industry has become a serious problem, digital printing
technology is environment friendly and saves water compared to the conventional
printing methods. It creates less pollution as there is no discharge of dyes and
chemicals.
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10.4 Color fixation
After application of print paste on fabric,it has to be fixed using the steaming method;which is
referred to as color fixation.During steaming,water droplets is formed on the thickener film and
it helps to penetrate or absorb dye.Hence,particular color is fixed in the area of the film.In ACS,
Loom Fixation Machine is used for color fixation
For different printed fabric; different temperature,pressure & time are required,which is given as
follow:
Printing method Steam Time Pressure

temperature
Rotary printing 102°C 10 minutes 900 atm
Flatbed printing 102°C 14 minutes 1400 atm
Digital printing 102°C 12 minutes 900 atm
Table 10.4.1: Color fixation temperature,time & pressure for different printing methods
10.5 Curing
For pigment printing,the curing process is applicable after drying.For other

print paste/colors;this process is not necessary.
● Time required : 4 minutes

● Temperature required : 150-160°C
● Roller speed : 50-55 m/min
10.6 Washing & drying
In ACS,washing and drying take place for printed

fabric.Washing portion has seven chambers and Drying
section has two chambers.Each chamber contains 10 rollers
rotating clockwise & anticlockwise respectively.
Fig.10.6.1: Washing & drying

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10.7 Process flowchart for reactive and pigment printing
Printing Flowchart(Reactive) Printing Flowchart(Pigment)
Fig.10.7.1: Process flow chart for reactive and pigment printing

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CHAPTER 11: FINISHING
11.1. Introduction:
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted
cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the
yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing.
Finishing refers to the processes that convert the fabric into a usable material so that it become
suitable for end use purposes. In other words, finishing is the process used the industry to impart
the required functional properties to the fabric such as fabric look, performance, hand feel etc.
The objective of finishing is to make the fabric make more acceptable to the consumer.
There are two types of finishing such as mechanical finishing & chemical finishing. The
finishing processes practiced in “ACS Textiles and Towels Bangladesh Ltd” are described as
follows:
Figure 11.1.1. Textile Finishing

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11.2. FINISHING IN STENTER MACHINE:

Stentering is a mechanical finishing process of textile. It is done for the stretching of fabric by
the stenter machine. In other words we can say stentering is done for gripping the edges of a
moving web to support the web during heating and stretching operations.
11.2.1. STENTER:
Figure 11.2.1.1 Stenter machine
Stenter is a specialist oven used in the textile industry for drying and heat-treating fabric after
wet processing. It is the most expensive and important fabric drying and finishing machine.
During working, it carries fabric from one point to another continuously in open width with
precise width control. There are two types of stenters, pin stenters and clip stenters, depending
on the means of holding the fabric onto the chains.
❖ Machine Description :
• Brand Name : Monforts

• Machine : Stenter
• Weft straightner (Mahlo)
• Burners 10
• Heat recovery
146
• Attraction rollers
• Circulating fans 10,8
• Exhaust fans 2
• Winder 2
• Clips
• Pins
• Cooling drums 2
❖ Functions of Stenter Machine:
However, the stenter is the only drying machine that provides adjustment and control of fabric
width during drying. In addition to drying, the stenter performs several other functions, namely:
1. Imparting a particular mechanical finish affecting appearance and feel, commonly known
as stenter finish.
2. Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.
3. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
4. Applying and fixation of several finishing agents by stenter machine.
5. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
6. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
7. Spirility controlled by the stenter.
8. GSM of the fabric is controlled bystenter.
9. Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
10. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
11. Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.
11.2.2. Refinishing and Topping

Refinishing and topping is a repetitive finishing process to cotton fabric, TC fabric and yarn
dyed fabric. To minimize the dyeing as per customer swatch and if necessary some pigment
dyes are used for the purpose.
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Process Requirement:
Equipment:
MONFORTS STENTER MACHINE Ⅰ & Ⅱ
11.2.2.1. Materials and Chemicals used:
The materials and chemicals used in the stenter machine for the TC fabric. 100% cotton. and
twill fabric finishing as well as re-finishing process are described below. A sequence of
chemical pouring is used in the wrinkle free finished fabric to avoid unwanted chemical
reaction.
Name of the Fabric Chemicals and materials used (the

chemical
sequence no is given in the left of wrinkle
free finished fabric)
1) White fabric (soft) Cotton OBA (optical brightening agent)
Polyester cotton OBA
Softener
Tinting agent
2) White fabric (wrinkle free and Easy Ⅰ. Softener
care) Ⅱ. cotton OBA
Ⅲ. Polyester cotton OBA
IV. pH adjusted with CH3COOH.
V. resin depends on fabric weight .i.e 110 g/l
is
recognized as light ( 110-300) g/l is medium
fabric and(330•500) 8/1 is heavy fabric.
VI. Wetting agent (when chemical
absorbency is poor)
VⅡ. Tinting agent
VⅢ. Additives.
IX. Catalyst (20-301% of resin
3) Colored fabric (soft) Softener
Dye fixer (it is used according to color
fastness)
pH adjusted With acetic acid
Anti foam for 100% cotton and twill
fabric
for dee shade
4) Colored fabric (Wrinkle free) Ⅰ. Softener

Ⅱ. Resin
Ⅲ. Wetting agent (when chemical
148
absorbency is poor)
IV. pH adjusted with acetic acid
V. Dye fixer
VⅠ. Catalyst 25-30% or resin
5) Yarn dyed (soft) Softener
Acetic acid for pH adjustment
OBAas per requirement
6) Yarn dyed (ultra soft) Softener
Acetic acid for pH adjustment
OBAas per requirement
7) Yarn dyed (wrinkle free & easy care) I. Softener/Catalyst
Ⅱ. Additive
Ⅲ. Resin
IV. Wetting agent
V. OBA (if required)
VI. pH adjusted with acetic acid
VⅡ. Catalyst 25-33% or resin
8) Colored fabric Softening agent
(hard finish and shiny finish) Wetting agent
Additive
Resin
Catalyst
Acetic acid
OBA
9) Water repellent Hydrophobic agent
Stiffing agent
Softener
Table 11.2.2.1. Materials and Chemicals used in stenter machine
11.2.2.2. Easy Care Process:
Resin Finish
Normal/ Soft Finish (without resin)
Input (Batching)
j-box
Chemical bath
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Mahelo ( bowness control)
Underfeed (For shrinkage control)
Overfeed ( For width control)
Dry chamber
Feed R/R
j-box
output
11.2.2.3. Safety:
 During production never touch any rotating or movable part or machine

 Never mix two or more chemical in their concentration
 Follow all the safety instructions mentioned form in the machine.
 Before entering into thermex keep the blower and burner “off”
 Always use the fiber clips to avoid selvedge folding
 Do not touch pins bar/clip bar.
 Do not open the window of the gas burner during production.
11.2.2. 4. Operation Procedure:
Operation procedure for white fabric finishing (Soft)
The pilot plant (fabric) provides customer approved swatch with recipe of the white fabric to
the finishing department where as preparation department provides the bleached fabric. The
finishing procedure begin with the calculation of solution a amount for a particular fabric the
formula as below:
❖ Solution amount = fabric weight (kg) X fabric length (m) X pick up % +

through content + 3% wastage
150
HERE
Pick up % = 60% - 70% (for white fabric)
= 50% - 55% (for colored fabric)
11.2.2.5. The operation procedure of white fabric finishing (soft)

The operation procedure of white fabric (wrinkle free) finishing is same as White fabric soft
finishing process. Except the chemical composition. Some new chemical (Resin. Catalyst.
Wetting Agent. Acetic Acid and Additives) are added here.
11.2.2.6. Operation procedure for colored fabric finishing (soft)

Planning department provides the customer approved swatch and the dyeing department the
fabric to the finishing department then a recipe is prepared base on the reference Of the chemical
literature book Of the chemical company program register and data color of pilot plant fabric
(soft) finishing process The only difference here is the pick up % which is (47-50) % and the
chemical stirring in the mixing tank which is (2-3) minute.
11.2.2.7. Operation procedure for colored fabric finishing (Wrinkle free)
The operation procedure of colored fabric wrinkle free finishing is same as colored fabric soft
finishing process except the chemical composition. Some new chemical (Resin, Catalyst,
Wetting agent and Acetic Acid) are added here (Lab). The process starts from the calculation
of solution amount and is same as white
.
11.2.2.8. Production Quality Check

In case of TC fabric, 100% cotton and twill fabric The operator checks the shade in naked eyes
in the stenter machine. If any deviation is found then he informs the responsible shift officer
who take the necessary action to overcome the problem. If the officer then the departmental
head production is informed and finally he give the decision. Shade checking is not applicable
for the sanforizing process
11.2.2.9 Fault Check
The operator check the weaving faults (.i.e. Double yarn. Warp and Weft missing yarn
contamination etc.), spinning faults ( .i.e. Dye resist mark. Stop mark. Bend mark. Chemical
spot. Dropping mark Listing Torn and Hole. Fabric structure etc.). During process when minor
fault occur within 30 m Of fabric (while running about 300-500 m of fabric) which is not
resulted from previous process and also not recorded on the process route card, the necessary
actions to be taken are as follows:
o Check the feed side batcher to make sure that thus fault did not occur from previous process
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11.2.2.10 Width Check

Measure fabric with by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished width that
is mentioned in process route card. in case of wrinkle free yarn dyed width checking is 2cm less
than the normal fabric finish fabric width.
11.2.2.11 QC sample test

1 m sample fabric is cut from each batch (Which represent the bulk) and sent to the QC lab for
test The shade continuity card is checked with the sample for the QC sample test QC department
does the physical test. chemical test and analysis the test and notes the result in fabric test result
for details of QC test During scanning of twill fabric data. color the sample must be set vertically
warp Wise. Refer to specification for details of the methods of sample scanning.
11.2.3. Heat setting and stretching process in stenter machine

• Heat setting and stretching:
Heat setting a mechanical process before dying TC+CVC fabric to dimensional stability
shrinkage stretching a dying of cotton fabric to crease marks and to get required width next
process.
• Equipment
MONFORTS STENTER MACHINE
• Key accessories:
The used for the Stenter machine are as follows:
Sewing machine, measuring tape, white papers.
• Material and Chemical used:

Sometimes wetting agent mixture of surface active compound) are used as
chemical for the heat setting and stretching process
• Safety Measure:
o During production never touch any rotating or movable part or machine

o Never mix two or more Chemical in their concentration.
o Follow all the safety instructions mentioned in the machine
o Before entering into thermex keep the blower and burner “off”
o Always use the fiber clips to avoid fiber selvedge folding
o Do not touch clip bar
o Do not open the window of the gas burner during production
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11.2.3.1. Production Procedure:

❖ Operation staff
o In charge finishing
o Assistant manager
o Textile technologist
o Production officer
o Finishing operator
o Assistant finishing operator
o Helpers
o Learners
❖ Machine Setup
Described below is the machine set up for the stenter machine for TC fabric.Twill fabric, 100%
cotton fabric. cotton poplin and other light fabric finishing re-finishing process for white and
colored fabric.
Checklist Set-up range Set value

Mangle pressure (2-6) bar Depends on pick up
Temperature setting According to the shade
(60-250)℃ (reference are taken from
production register)
Temperature (for re- According to the shade
finishing) (150-180)℃ (reference are taken from
production register)
Over feed (0-18) % As required
Blower fan setting for High
Low and high
solid dyed fabric
Blower fan setting for yarn High
Low and high
dyed fabric
Exhaust fan setting Auto/ manual Manual
Width of machine chain 1. Described with (+8)cmin
setting case of pin
(70-80) cm 2. Described with (+6) cm in
case of clip
Pleva setting parameter for As required

(4.5-5.5) %
TC “g” for cotton “O”
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Fabric pneumatic dyed bar 0.5 bar

(0-2) bar
pressure
Machine pins/clips Pins ( for light fabric)
N/A
Clips ( for heavy fabric)
Burner gas pressure 20ml (fixed) 20ml
Machine speed m/min
light shade – 40-100
dark shade – 40-100
light/soft finished fabric
(7-120) m/min – 40-100
Twill fabric – 40-70
Wrinkle free fabric – 20-25
Bianco Program no (1-10) Depends on fabric structure
Table 11.2.3.1.1. Machine setup
11.2.3.2. Checklist before production:
Parameters/ Items Value/ Checking

Machine setup a) Threading of machine as per process
requirement
b) Parameters set up should be as per
process requirement.
Fabric availability According to program schedule and the

Route card having test status “OK”
Preparation of chemicals Checking of preparation and also the

shifting of liquor to the delivery tanks
Tape fabric Availability
Batches for winding Availability
Accessories, necessities and utilities Availability
Machine Clean condition

Manpower Availability
Table 11.2.3.2.1 Machine setup

154
11.2.3.3. Operation Procedure:
1) For heat setting

First fabric through various tension roller. draw guide roller. through (fillwater), padder, bianco,
pinning shoes pins and brushes. The fabric are entering to drying and thermosol unit by Pins
track Pins track transfers fabric delivery unit and wrapped on batcher Mainly heat setting occurs
in the a thermosoling unit To get better heat setting moreover heat applied on fabric and in case
of poor absorbency some wetting agent are in through.
2) For stretching
First fabric passes through various draw rollers, tension rollers. guide rollers, trough(fill water),
padder, bianco. Then fabric are entire into drying chamber by clips truck. Clips truck carries
the fabric in delivery unit and wrapped on batcher. Fabric are stretched by clips both warp and
weft way. Drying chamber used for dried fabric in case of poor absorbency some wetting agent
are used in through with mixing water.
Preparation of chemical for heat and stretching (if required):

Only (1-2) g/l wetting is added in 400 l solution in the mixing tank of the machine.
11.2.3.4. Production Quality Check:

In Case of TC fabric, 100% cotton and twill fabric The operator Cheek the Shade in naked eyes
in the stenter machine If any deviation is found then he inform the responsible shift officer who
take the action to overcome the problem If the officer then the departmental head production is
informed and finally he give the decision Shade checking is not applicable for the sanforizing
process.
 Fault Check:
The operator check the weaving faults (i.e Double yarn, Warp and Weft missing, yarn
contamination etc), spinning faults (i.e Dye resist mark, Stop mark, Bend mark, Chemical spot,
Dropping mark, Listing Torn and Hole, Fabric structure etc).
During process when minor fault within 30 m Of fabric (while running about 300 - 500 m of
fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not recorded on the process route
card. the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:
155
o Stop the machine to identify whether thus faults are occurring due to machine faults or the
faults are due to the chemical (checks cleanliness of machine parameters and chemical
composition).
o If there any on the fabric then it indicates that the f o chemical pouring in the mixing tank
for the wrinkle free finished fabrics not correct and hence the chemical reaction has
damaged the fabric.
o For this the chemicals have to mixed up in the mixing tank following the proper (reference
are mentioned in the chemical composition for wrinkle free finished fabric).
 Width Check:
measure fabric width by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished width
that is mentioned in process route card in cag of wrinkle free yarn dyed width checking is 2cm
less than the normal fabric finish fabric width
 Design and Fabric Bow Check:

In the delivery side the operator check the design and bow, adjust the
machine for checking the stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric.
 Pin Setting Check (for TC and yarn dyed fabric)
Checks all the delivery side if the schedule of fabric is in pins correctly.
 Clips Checking (for 100% cotton and twill fabric)
Check the feeding side i.e. setting of fabric on theclips.
 QC Sample Check:
1m sample is Cut from batch (which represent the bulk) and the lab for test. The shade
continuity card is checked with the sample for the QC sample test. QC department has done the
physical test, chemical test and analysis the test and notes the result in fabric test result for
details of QC test. During scanning of the twill fabric data color machine, the sample must be
set vertically warp wise. Refer to specification for details of the methods of sample scanning
156
11.3. Finishing process in sanforizing machine

11.3.1. Sanforizing:
Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage process which is applied on fabric to achieve
shrinkage before making the garments. It's a mechanical finishing applied to prevent the normal
dimensional alternation of warp & Weft. It's also called anti- shrinkage finishing. The main
purpose of sanforizing is to pre-shrink & stabilize cotton fabrics & mixed cotton fabrics. After
sanforizing the residual shrinkage of fabric may be zero.
Figure 11.3.1.1.: Sanforizing Machine
The objectives of the sanforizing or zero-zero process are:

• To minimize the after washing fabric shrinkage.
• To improve the dimensional stability of the fabric.
• To soften the fabric handle.
• To increase the fabric GSM.
• To increase the fabric, cover in the fabric.
11.3.2. Process Requirement:

1. Equipment:
MONFORTS SANFORIZING MACHINE
2. Key accessories:
The necessaries tools/accessories for the sanforizing machine are as follows:
Sewing machine, measuring tape, white papers
157
3. Safety Measure:
o During production never touch any rotating or movable part or machine.

o Never mix two or more chemical in their concentration.
o Follow all the safety instructions mentioned form in the machine.
11.3.3. Production Procedure:

11.3.3.1. Operation Staff
• In charge finishing
• Assistant manager
• Textile technologist
• Production officer
• Finishing operator
• Assistant finishing operator
• Helpers
• Learners
11.3.3.2. Machine Set up:

Described below with machine set up for cotton and CVC fabric is:
Check list Set up range Set value
Steam pressure for damping roller (0-5) bar 2.5 bar
Water pressure for spraying before (0-5) bar 4.5 bar

damping roller
Over feed (0-10) bar 5% as required loose
Rubber belt pressure (0-18) bar 8-12 bar
Rate of water spraying on rubber belt As required

Steam pressure for rubber belt (0-3) bar 0-2 bar less than two
Rubber belt tension (0-10) bar Depends on belt thickness
Air pressure for felt belt (0-6) bar 4.5bar

Steam pressure for felt belt (0-3) bar 2-3 bar
Pressure for winding batcher (0-10) bar 0-4 bar
Table 11.3.3.2.1 Machine Set up

158

o After completion of the checklist before starting the sanforizing process (for the cotton and
CVC) the operator gets approval from the production officer.
o The operator sets the feed side batcher and check the shrinkage of the fabric by a special
type of scale and the fabric is guided up to the damper.The fabric process through the
friction and heat of the rubber belt region and also through the felt calendar region of the
sanforizing machine.
o The empty batcher is set to the rare end of the rotation station.
o During the process the operator stop the machine to check the shrinkage of the fabric at the
rare end. If the shrinkage setting is all right then the bulk production continuous and if there
is any deviation in the shrinkage setting then the setting pressure and roller pressure are
adjusted.
11.3.3.4. Production Quality check:

In case of TC fabric, 100% cotton and twill fabric. The operator check the shade in naked eyes
in the sanforizing machine. If any deviation is found then he informs the responsible shift officer
who take the necessary action to overcome the problem. If the officer then the departmental
head production is informed and finally, he gives the decision. Shade checking is not applicable
for the sanforizing process.
11.3.3.5. Fault Check:

o chemical (checks cleanliness of machine parameters and chemical composition).
The operator check the weaving faults (.i.e Double yarn, Warp and Weft missing, yarn
contamination etc.), spinning faults ( .i.e. Dye resist mark, Stop mark. Bend mark, Chemical
spot, Dropping mark. Listing Torn and Hole, Fabric structure etc.).
During process when minor fault occur within 30 m of fabric ( while running about 300-500 m
of fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not recorded on the process route
card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:
o Check the feed side batcher to make sure that thus fault did not occur from previous process
Stop the machine to identify whether thus faults are occurring due to machine faults or
the faults are due to the
159
o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the chemical pouring
in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics not correct and hence the chemical
reaction has damage the fabric.
For this the chemicals have to be mixed up in the mixing tank following the proper sequence
(reference are mentioned in the chemical composition for wrinkle free finished fabric).
11.3.3.6. Width Check:

Measure fabric by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished width that is
mentioned in process route card, in case of wrinkle free yarn dyed width checking is 2cm less
• Design the fabric bow check for yarn dyed fabric-

In the delivery side the operator checks the design and bow, adjust the machine for
checking stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric
• QC sample test-
1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to the QC lab for
does the physical test , chemical test and analysis the test and notes the result in fabric test
result for details of QC test During scanning Of twill fabric data color machine the sample must
be set vertically warp wise. Refer to specification for details of the methods of sample scanning.
11.4. Finishing Process in calendaring machine:
11.4.1. Calendaring Process:

In fabric finishing process. calendar plays an important roll in achieving effect like smoothing
luster effects. In this process fabric is passed through a machine in which heavy roller (bow is)
rotate in contact under mechanical or hydraulic pressure.
Four type of calendaring are done here
a) Chintz calendar (smoothing effect with paper roll and steel roll)
b) Ironing (soft. smoothing and glazing effect with steel roll)
c) Calendaring for smooth surface (mating effects with cotton)
d) Calendaring (soft and smoothing effect with cotton roll, paper roll and steel roll)
160
11.4.1.1. Process Requirement:

• Equipment:
THE RAMISH CALENDARING MACHINE
• Key accessories:
The necessaries tools/accessories used for the stenter machine are as follows:
Sewing machine. measuring tape, white papers.
• Material and Chemical Used:

Sometimes wetting agent (e.g mixture of surface active compound) are used as
chemical for the heat setting and stretching process.
• Safety Measure:
o During production never touch any rotating or movable part or machine.
o Never mix two or more chemical in their concentration.
o Follow all the safety instructions mentioned form in the machine.
11.4.2. Production Procedure:
11.4.2.1. Operation staff:
• In charge finishing
• Assistant manager
• Textile technologist
• Production officer
• Finishing operator
• Assistant finishing operator
• Helpers
• Learners
11.4.2.2. Machine Setup:
Described below is the machine set up for the stenter machine for TC fabric, Twill fabric, 100%
cotton fabric, cotton poplin and other light fabric finishing re-finishing process for white and
colored fabric.
161
Machine Set up Parameter Actual Parameter Range

Steam pressure for steel bowl As required
Pressure for cotton bowl (50-100) K/N
Pressure for paper bowl (50-100) K/N
Temperature (50-240)℃
Speed (30-70) m/min
Tension roller setting position 1,2,3 depends on the bowl used
Seam distance setting 71-120
Table 11.4.2.2.1 Machine Set up
11.4.2.3. Checklist before production:

Parameters/ Items Value/ Checking
Machine setup a) Threading of machine as per process
requirement
b) Parameters set up should be as per
process requirement.
Fabric availability According to program schedule and the

Route card having test status “OK”
Preparation of chemicals Checking of preparation and also the

shifting of liquor to the delivery tanks
Tape fabric Availability
Batches for winding Availability
Accessories, necessities and utilities Availability
Machine Clean condition

Manpower Availability
Table 11.4.2.3.1 Checklist before production

162
o The operator feed in fabric manually through guide, tension and bowl end roller.
o The machine is started
o According to the degree of flattening the surface pressure of bowl and the speed are
adjusted.
o Due to the construction and nature of the steel bowl and resilient bowl, the fabric ic
stretched and compressed which is passed through the nip. Thus smoothness of fabric
configuration is achieved.
o In case of steel roller the fabric passed through a pair Of (air cooling) situated at the back
of the machine.
o The fabric is rolled in the delivery side batch roller or plate.
o Then the fabric is send to the next stage of finishing or to the inspection department
11.4.2.5. Fault Check:

The operator check the weaving faults (.i.e Double yarn, Warp and Weft missing, yarn
contamination etc.), spinning faults ( .i.e. Dye resist mark, Stop mark. Bend mark, Chemical
spot, Dropping mark., Listing Torn and Hole, Fabric structure etc.).
During process when minor fault occur within 30 m of fabric ( while running about 300-500 m
of fabric) which is not resulted from previous process and also not recorded on the process route
card, the necessary actions to be taken are as follows:
o Check the feed side batcher to make sure that thus fault did not occur from previous
process
o Stop the machine to identify whether thus faults are occurring due to machine faults or the
faults are due to the chemical (checks cleanliness of machine parameters and chemical
composition).
o If there is any spot on the fabric then it indicate that the sequence of the chemical pouring
in the mixing tank for the wrinkle free finished fabrics not correct and hence the chemical
reaction has damage the fabric.
For this the chemicals have to be mixed up in the mixing tank following the proper sequence
(reference are mentioned in the chemical composition for wrinkle free finished fabric).
11.4.2.6. Width Check:

Measure fabric by using a measuring tape. Compares with the required finished width that is
mentioned in process route card, in case of wrinkle free yarn dyed width checking is 2cm less
163
11.4.2.7. Design the fabric bow check for yarn dyed fabric-
In the delivery side the operator checks the design and bow, adjust the machine for checking
stripe by straightening the weft of the fabric
11.4.2.8. QC sample test-

1m sample fabric is cut from each batch (which represent the bulk) and sent to the QC lab for
does the physical test , chemical test and analysis the test and notes the result in fabric test result
for details of QC test During scanning Of twill fabric data color machine the sample must be
set vertically warp wise. Refer to specification for details of the methods of sample scanning.
11.4.2.9. Response to Equipment Fault in Finishing:

Follow the specification is given below
Machine Faults Response

Compensator problem Electrical/Mechanical engineer should
called
Air pressure valve problem Mechanical engineer should be called
Rubber belt surface checking or rough Mechanical engineer should be called

surface problem
Batching roller, feed roller, compensator, Mechanical engineer should be called
felt moving steam problem etc.
Table 11.4.2.9.1 Response to Equipment Fault in Finishing:

164
Chapter 12: Production planning & product development
12.1 Production planning
The objective of production planning is to plan and manage the materials and capacities based on
the customer needs. Thus production planning enables the company to fulfill customer demand
and achieve other goals efficiently and with high quality.
The chart below depicts the elements of production planning of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd. :
Fig 12.1.1: Production flow chart

165
12.2 Flow chart of Product Development

166
Fig.12.2.1: Product development

167
Chapter 13: R & D Department
13.1 Introduction
Through research and development, textile companies can ensure that their products meet the
highest quality standards. R&D allows organizations to test materials, improve manufacturing
processes, and conduct thorough quality control checks
.
The research and development department helps their company decide which products and
services would most likely find success if offered to their clients and customers.
There are several R&D job responsibilities and functions the department performs to produce
usable data to help develop these products and services.
13.2 Flow process of R & Department
Fig.13.2.1: Flow process of R & D Department

168
13.3 Analysis
After receiving buyers’ swatch samples, an analytical process takes place. It is

performed to be informed of the parameters of the required sample, which includes:
▪ EPI & PPI: By counting the threads in one inch.EPI is the number of warp ends in
one inch and PPI is the number of weft picks in one inch.
▪ GSM : It can be measured in two ways-
1) By GSM cutter- At first,fabric is cut with the cutter ,which is 100 cm^2.
Then, it is weighted.
Here, GSM= Calculated weight(gm)*100
Fig.13.3.1: GSM cutter
2) By size - ISO 3801, ISO 12127 are followed.

Length & width are measured in centimeters.
The formula is,
GSM=(456.8*10000)/(length in cm* width in cm)
▪ Weave Plan : It is checked manually using counting glass.
▪ Count : By using beesley’s balance or using the formula,
(N*Length of cut yarn*0.0059)/weight in gm
Here, N=number of yarns which is weighted in gm.
13.4 Testing
In the testing lab of the department, the industry is engaged in mainly fabric & dyeing parameter
testing.
1)Fabric parameter check: Physical test ,Chemical test & Wash test
2)Dyeing parameter check: Color fastness test, Shade matching etc.
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13.4.1 Fabric parameter check
13.4.1.1 Physical test
Physical Tensile Tear Abrasion Pilling Crease

Test Strength Strength Resistance Resistance Resistance
M/C Brand James.H. Shirley James.H. James.H. Shirley

Heals Heals Heals
M/C Type Universal Tearing Martindale ICI pilling Crease

strength tester 1653 abrasion box & recovery
tester random tester
& pilling pilling
tester tester
M/C Origin England England England England England
Person Lab Lab Lab Lab Lab

Responsible assistant assistant assistant assistant assistant
Frequency Every order Every Whenever Whenever Whenever

order(only required required buyer
for 100% requirement
light
fabric)
Method ISO ISO BS 5811, BS EN
13931-1 13937-1 BS 5690 & ASTM 22313,
& 13931-2 D3512 AATCC 66
& ISO 2313
Table 13.4.1.1.1: Physical Test
13.4.1.2 Chemical test
Chemical testing and analysis of textiles is vital for regulatory compliance and to understand the
quality and composition of chemical substances and materials that are used in products. In the
current textile and apparel industry, the difficulty in controlling diverse health or environment-
related chemical hazards exists not only in the vast volume of chemicals used in the manufacturing
process, but is also due to the complexity and multi-tiered textile supply chain which involves
diverse suppliers worldwide.
The following chemical test are carried out-
Fabric pH test
Formaldehyde test
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Test Standard Process
Fabric pH test AATC This document specifies a method for determining

C 81- the pH of the aqueous extract of textiles. The
1996 method is applicable to textiles in any form (e.g.
fibers, yarns, fabrics).
Formaldehyde test ISO 14184 It specifies a method for determining the amount of
free formaldehyde and formaldehyde extracted
partly through hydrolysis by means of a water
extraction method. The method can be applied to the
testing of textile samples in any form. The procedure
is intended for use in the range of free and
hydrolysed formaldehyde on the fabric between 16
mg/kg and 3 500 mg/kg when determined by this
method. The lower limit is 16 mg/kg. Below this
limit, the result is reported as "not detectable".
Table 13.4.1.2.1: Chemical test
13.4.1.3 Wash test
Fabric specifications (EPI, PPI ,GSM) may be affected by wash, so it is necessary to accomplish
wash testing in the testing lab.
This following wash test is carried out-
Dimensional stability to household laundering

Linting of towels
Time of absorption
Dimensional stability to household laundering
*Method : ISO 6330, EN 26330
*Measurement: Shrinkage measure
*Equipment : James Heal shrinkage template & washing m/c.
*Chemical : ECE phosphate(B) =15.4 gm
Na-perborate tetrahydrate =4 gm
Tetra Acetyl ethylene =0.6 gm
Total
=20 gm
* Formula: Shrinkage% ={(After wash-Before wash)/ Before wash}*100%
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Fig.13.4.1.3.1: Shrinkage template
Linting of towels:
*Method : ISO 6330

*Procedure: After washing fabric, it is dried out & lint is collected.Then,dried lint weight
is measured in gm.
Lint%=(Total lint in gm/Sample weight in gm)*100%
Most of the buyers’ has particular requirements for lint.
Time of absorption:
*Method : ISO 14697

*Specimen size: 10*10 cm
*Equipments : Beaker,stopwatch
*Procedure : Sample or specimen is dropped into 4L water in a beaker.Then,time of
absorption is recorded.
13.4.2 Dyeing parameter check
• Dyeing or required shade matching is an important issue for textile industries.Before bulk
production,color recipes are prepared and applied to the sample to get approval for the next
processes.
• Moreover,only shade matching is not enough, because dyes can be easily washed out if not
prepared perfectly. So, some of the tests are operated to check the qualities of the dyed sample.
• If shade matching as well as test results are satisfactory & according to buyers’ requirement,
then the data sheet is sent to them to get the final approval for bulk production.
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13.4.2.1 Flow process for dyeing parameter check
Fig.13.4.2.1.1: Flow process for Dyeing parameter

check
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13.4.2.2 Procedure analysis
🔹Swatch/pantone code analysis:

Buyers give sample or swatch and the department engages in developing dyeing recipes for
it.This type of requisition are mainly two types-
*Buyers sample/swatch Sample is placed in the spectrophotometer

and recipe for this color is shown in the
monitor from data color.
*Pantone number (TPX/TCX/TPG) : Sometimes buyers use pantone color code
instead of a sample. Every industry follows the
color number in from the book to dye the
fabric.
(1) Spectrophotometer (2) Pantone Book

Fig.13.4.2.2.1: Swatch/Pantone code analysis
🔹Auto dispenser :
Auto dispensing system consists of a weighing module, bottles (98/120/140) to store stock
solution, pots ( 12/24) to store dispensed recipes and two robotic pipettes. Dye solution is
prepared using high accuracy ( 3 digit ) weighing balance for weighing dyestuff and 2 digit
balance for water weighing.
Fig.13.4.2.2.2: Auto dispenser

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🔹Auto mixer: Colors from auto mixer machine is given & then perfect amount of water and
chemicals are added to form exact solution for dyeing.
Fig.13.4.2.2.3: Auto mixer
🔹Datacolor Ahiba IR: Sample is dyed with the dyeing solution in this machine. In this process,
a particular shade for fabric is produced similar to the pantone color or swatch fabric color.
Fig.13.4.2.2.4: Datacolor Ahiba IR
🔹Washing: Allowing at least 24 hours of setting time for the dye to finish its reaction. After this
time passes, the dye should be inactive and less likely to bond with the white areas of the fabric
during the rinse/wash process. So, it should be rinsed completely in cool water, then wash with
Synthrapol or another detergent in a hot water cycle.
Washing procedure causes exhaustion sometimes and removes unfixed dyes from the sample. For
this, even shade is seen all over the surface of the fabric. Fixation may occur while soda is used.
This practise takes place when buyers’ want confirmation of the quality full product.
175
Fig.13.4.2.2.5: Washing
🔹Softening: Softener is an finishing agent that when applied to textile material improves its
handle giving pleasing touch. As a general rule, the softening agents applied are lubricating agents,
which facilitate the fiber sliding within the fabric structure, thus granting easier deformation and
creasing of the fabric.
🔹Color fastness check:
It is consists of several tests, which are-
● Color fastness to household laundering

● Color fastness to wash
● Color fastness to water
● Color fastness to rubbing
● Color fastness to perspiration
● Color fastness to light
● Color fastness to sea water
● Color fastness to chlorinated water
● Color fastness to oxidative bleach
● Color fastness to phenolic yellowing
● Color fastness to saliva
● Print durability
These processes are described below:

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Parameter Standard Equipment Solution Temperature Time M/

check C
Color ISO 5077 Water & As per 20 Washing m/c

fastness to detergent buyers’ mins
household requirement
laundering
Multifiber(
DW,TV,
Lyo-W)
attached
Color ISO 105 No Sodium perborate 40°C 30

fastness to C06 specific tetrahydrate=1g, mins
wash (A2S,B2S sample ECE(B)=2g,
, size water=4L
C2S,E2S)
Gyro wash
Color IOS 105 As per Distilled water 37°C 30 Washing m/c
fastness to E-01 Buyers’ mins
water Require
- ment
Color ISO 100% Water(for Room No

fastness to 105 cotton wet rubbing) temperature specifi
rubbing X-12 fabric c time
Crockmeter
Color ISO Sample Acid/Alkali 37°C 4 hrs
fastness to 105 size=
perspiration E-04 4*10
cm
Incubator
Color ISO Sample No chemical 60°C 40/50/
fastness to 105 size= 72 hrs
light B-02 2*10
cm
Q-Sun Xenon
177
Color ISO 105 Sample Distilled 37°C 4 hrs Washing m/c

fastness to E-02 size= water(1L)
sea water 4*10 +
cm NaCl(30g)+
MgCl2(5g)
Color ISO 105 No Distilled water 27°C 1 hr Gyro wash
fastness to E-05 specific +K-dihydro
chlorinated sample phosphate+di-
water size Na hydrogen
phosphate+Na-
hypochlorite,
M:L=1:100
Color ISO 105 As per Sodium 60°C 30 Washing m/c
fastness to C-09 Buyers’ perborate mins
oxidative Require- tetrahydrate=12g
bleach ment ECE(A)=10g
, M:L=1:100
Color ISO 105 Sample Dilute Phenol 50°C 16 hrs Incubator

fastness to X-18 size=
phenolic 3*10 cm,
yellowing Test paper
(100*75
mm),
Acrylic
plate=7
Color GB/T Sample 1L 37°C 4 hrs Incubator
fastness to 18886 size= water+lactic
saliva 4*10c acid+carbamide
m +NaCl+KCl+Na
-sulfate+NH4Cl
Print ISO 11798 Sample Water As per 30 Dura wash

durabilit size= & buyers’ mins
y 35*35c detergent requirement
m
Table 13.4.2.2.6: Color fastness check
🔹Data sheet preparation: After checking all the parameters, these are included in a technical
data sheet. By it, buyers can compare the analytical results and their required results, hence, the
final approval before bulk production may occur.
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Chapter 14 : Quality Assurance
14.1 1st-meter check (offline QC):
❖ After producing one-meter fabric, quality is checked and if everything is okay

then bulk production proceeds with the approval of R&D department.
❖ The processes we follow in offline QC is given below:
❖ At first, the following things have to be matched with Order/GD paper:
o Loom Card
o Sizing beam sticker
o Weaving program paper
❖ EPI & PPI, Reed count, Fabric grey width, Weft yarn count & Lot has to be
matched with the program paper
❖ Drawing, Denting and Lifting plan has to be matched with the program paper
❖ Fabric selvedge size & design has to be checked according to the program paper
❖ In case of Yarn dyed fabric, color sequence and warp & weft repeat size has to
be matched with program paper and setting up the correct yarn package on the
weft accumulator according to the program paper
❖ If all the above processes pass the quality check, we check for starting & rapping
mark. Then we send the fabric to R&D to get approval for bulk production
14.2 Loom run / Fabric production:
Bulk fabric production is started after 1st meter approval by R&D. Machines run on
optimum RPM to achieve higher production and maintain the same quality throughout
the process.
14.3 Fabric check (online QC):
During the bulk production, fabric quality is continuously checked. Correction is done, if
any fault is found. Depending on the quality if any extra care is needed, it must be written
on the machine and the weavers must be informed. Such as-
179
➢ At the starting of shift count, lot no. is checked for every machine.
➢ Online quality (wrong drawing & denting, double yarn) is checked after 2 hours
of interval by the weaver.
➢ In case of yarn dyed fabric repeat size & swatch Is checked once per shift.
➢ In case of dobby machine lifting plan is checked once per shift.
➢ In case of every lycra fabric, at least two yarn accumulator is used for solving
lycra tension variation.
➢ Checking the monitor pick of the loom once per shift.
➢ Fabric roller is checked (stop mark, miss pick, half pick, shed variation etc)
up to 15-20 meters once in every shift.
➢ In case of Chambray Fabric, not to put pressure on machine front or back rest
roller.(For stop mark)
➢ Use of several pre-winder for Cham bary fabric. (For shed)
➢ Reducing one pick in Air jet loom for Lycra fabric. (For half pick)
➢ When pick is cut, more than one pick can’t be removed. (For Matt, Rib stop,
Various types of dobby fabrics)
➢ Selvedge wastages length is checked.
14.4 Doffing for dispatching to inspection:
Fabric doffing is performed every day at certain time to deliver the roll to
the inspection department.
14.5 Grey fabric inspection:
After manufacturing of grey fabric on loom, it is inspected using an grey fabric inspection
machine. During this inspection, defects such as knots, broken and loose warp ends, broken
weft ends are removed. It is done in batch section in factory. In case of holes, either it
is mended or the fabric is cut off depending on the position of the hole and its severity.
The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of quality
control in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two
primary considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.
180
14.6 Fabric Inspection and Mending:
14.6.1 Fabric Inspection:

Fabric inspection, also known as fabric checking, is a systematic fabric evaluation in which
defects are identified. Fabric inspection helps understand quality in terms of color, density,
weight, printing, measurement, and other quality criteria prior to garment production.
14.6.1.1 Important notice about inspection:

o Before starting the mending the fabric design, dote, loom no, shed no, seal etc. are written
on the selvedge must be checked and matched with the log sheet.
o Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45 - 60 degree angles.

o Inspection must be done on appropriate Cool White light F96 fluorescent bulbs above
viewing area. Bock light can be used as and when needed.
o Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.
o Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
o In case of yarn-dyed check or stripe fabric each repeat must be checked with the pattern
very carefully.
o Mending should be done very carefully and with full attention so that the fabric doesn't
damage during the mending. Line checkers help can be taken if needed. All defects must be
flogged during inspection.
o The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on supplier
ticketed and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for additional
replacement to ovoid shortage.
14.6.2 Fabric Mending:

Mending involves the actual repair of imperfections such as weaving in a missing warp or weft
yarn with a hand needle and repairing tears as well as small holes.
181
14.6.2.1 Instruction for Mending & Rechecking:
Before starting the mending, the fabric design, date, loom no, shed no, seat etc. are written on
the selvedge must be checked and matched with the log sheet
o Mending should be done very carefully and with attention so the fabric doesn't damage
during the mending. Line checkers help can be taken if needed.
o The EPI, PPI, and width of the fabric must be checked and noted on the paper.
o In case of yarn—dyed check or stripe fabric each repeat must be checked with the pattern
very carefully.
o The line checker, supervisor and quality officers must be informed in case of facing any
problem.
o After assessing the fabric quality, right grade must be determined before sending it to
folding. Writing the grade on paper must be cleared and not overwritten. If the writing is
unclear and overwritten it must be written again in clear.
o The fabric quality, grade, seal, mender, checker, and must be mentioned in the selvedge of
each fabric.
Sample fabrics must be checked very carefully and then handed over to folding
14.6.3 Fabric Faults:

Fabric faults ore 2 types:
• Mendable: The faults that can be fixed is called mendable
• Non-mendable: The faults cannot be fixed is called non-mendable
❖ Mendable:
• Temple mark
• Double end
• Double pick
• Warp loose
• Missing Pick
• Half pick
• Short pick
182
❖ Non-mendable:
• Temple cut
• Hole cut
• Reed mark
• Cut pick
• Line mark
• Reed cut
• Count mix
• Blend mix
• Lot mix
• Miss yarn
• Miss pick
• Loose pick
• Pick variation
• Wrong design
• Wrong denting
• Float yarn
• Starting mark
• Rapping mark
Figure 14.6.3.1 : Fabric Faults
14.6.4 Visual Inspection & Grading:

Our mill uses customized inspection standards, is the 4-point system. It is a widely accepted
system of fabric inspection as it is based on penalty points. Standard test methods for visually
inspecting and grading fabrics (ASTM 05430) and 4-point system.
14.6.5 Caused and Remedies of Fabric Faults:
Fault Name Caus Effect Remedy

e s
Temple mark Jam of temple ring Temple mark on Adjustment of temple
the fabric ring
Double warp yarn Sticky sized yarn Warp wise 1. Properly sized yarn
double yarn
2. Quality check by the
weaver
Double pick Operating fault, Weft wise 1. Skilled operation by
Electric fault double yarn weaver
2. Work on filing
detector
183
Warp lose Sizing stage fault due to Harsh hand feel Uniform tension during
tension variation sizing
Side pick Displacement of weft Looks like half pick Accumulator shouldn’t
accumulator be displaced
Half pick Low air pressure of main Half insertion of the 1. Adjustment of air
nozzle pick pressure
FD1 (Filling Detector-1) 2. FD1 checkup
not working properly
Warp miss Warp stop motion not Missing of warp yarn Drop wire connection
working should be checked
properly
Starting mark Long time machine Coarser mark full 1. Reduce downtime of
stoppage width wise on the m/c
fabric
2. Mechanical work
Rapping mark Long time machine Wavy effect on weft (loom’s back rest &
stoppage frame height
adjustment)
Thin place Long time machine Finer thin mark is
stoppage produced
Temple cut Too high or low EPI Breakage of single Adjustment of ring
Miss pick Operating fault by weaver Missing a single pick Better operation with
care
Count mix, lot Various count/lot/blend of Shed variation, Carefully yarn package
mix, blend mix yarn runs in a single loom fabric appearance setup
variation
Reed mark It dents are defective in Warp wise mark on Reed change/ Repair of
the reed the fabric reed
Warp miss Warp stop motion not Missing of warp yarn Drop wire connection
working should be checked
properly
Table 14.6.5.1 : Fabric faults causes and remedies

184
14.6.6 4 Point System:

In 4 point system, every defects in the fabric is given o number which is called point. The point
is given according to the defects sic. A coble is used for this process.
Length/ Width of defect Penalty Point Allotted

From 0"> 3" length/width 1
From 3.1">6" length/width 2
From 6.1" >9" length/width 3
More than 9" length/width 4
Holes and openings (1" or less) 2
Holes and openings (Over 1") 4
Table 14.6.6.1 : 4 point system
14.6.7 Classification of Inspection Fabric:
 A Grade Fabric: If less than 8 points comes in 100 meter fabric then it is considered asA
grade fabric.
 B Grade Fabric: If 12 points comes in 100 meter fabric then it is considered as 8 grade
fabric.
 C Grade Fabric: If 14 points comes in 100 meter fabric then it is considered as C grade
fabric.
 D Grade Fabric: If 16 points comes in 100 meter fabric then it is considered as D grade
fabric.
185
Chapter 15: Maintenance
15.1. Maintenance
Maintenance is one of the main concerning points for any production oriented organization
ACS TEXTILES BD LTD having its own maintenance department and it is a strong section. It
has a skilled group of maintenance manpower.
15.2. Object of maintenance:
• To know about the different maintaining parts of machine
• To ensure the smooth running of machine
• To know about the life time of a machine
• To produce the good quality of products
• To get good performance of machine
• To increasing efficiency of a machine
15.3. Types of Maintenance
✓ Greasing
✓ Cleaning
✓ Oiling
✓ Replacement
✓ Overhauling
15.4. Period of Maintenance
Type Period
Oiling Once every six months
Greasing Everyday
Overhauling Once in a year
Cleaning Everyday
Table 15.4.1 Period of Maintenance.
186
15.4.2 Manpower per each shed are works:
• Maintenance engineer: 01 man

• Maintenance checker: 4 man per 32 loom
• Fitter: 15
• Asst. fitter: 24
• Oil man: 08
15.4.3 Maintaining parts:

• Bearing
• Spring
• Valve
• Feeling detector
• Pin
• Sub nozzle
• Gears
• Shafts
• Guide roller
• Belts catch
• Dobby parts
• Change pinion
• Gearbox
• Cam box
187
15.4.4 Available maintaining tools are:
Table 15.4.4.1. Available maintaining tools

188
There are also many others maintaining tools-

▪ Double head spanner plus
▪ Nozzle gauge
▪ Player – 08 inch
▪ Pressure gauge
▪ Nose player - 06 inch
▪ Adjustable wrench
▪ Lock player
▪ Single head spanner
▪ Fd gauge – (0.5 – 0.6 inch)
▪ T - type wrench
▪ Allen key
▪ T - elken - 5mm to 60mm
▪ Oil gun
▪ Lead pliers
▪ Brush
▪ Cross point driver
▪ Wrench set
▪ Araldite cement
▪ Turning bar 5/6inch
▪ Pinsetter
▪ IRO spanner
▪ Pin lever
▪ Over fall bolt
▪ Nut locking tool
▪ spade
▪ Drum spanner
▪ For cleaning:
15.4.5 For oiling & greasing:

• Oil
• Lubricating agent
• Grease are used.
15.4.6 For replacement:
• Reed
• Nozzle
• Drop wire
• Sensor
• Nozzle valves
• Rollers
• Gears
• Pinion
• Belts
• Weft cutter are replaced if required in various time.
189
15.5. Daily Inspection
Remove any lint on the suction filter for the cooling fan for the driving motors in each
section. Check any trouble and the following points:
*Abnormal noise, normal noise, surface condition, vibration, rotation irregularity of each roll;
*Tension in each section;
*Steam, air size and oil leakage;
*Steam pressure:
a. Main supply pressure
b. Supply pressure to the drying cylinder
c. Supply pressure to the sizing section.
* Air pressure:
a. Main supply pressure,
b. Pressure during power failure-at the beam stand and the middle section,
c. pressure due to the cut mark device-standard 3.5pa
* Steam drain exhaust;
*Squeeze roll pressuring condition;
*Exhausting
15.5.1. Weekly inspection

Exhaust drain from the air compressor and the pressure reducing valve with the filter;
*Remove lint from the static electricity eliminator.
1. Roll chain tension
Adjust tension with tension wheel. If the chain has slack replace it Some check points
are-
a. Sizing section: Sizing roll driving
b. Drying Section: Pre-cylinder drying and main cylinder drying.
c. Take-up section: Warp beam and doffing driving, Taking-up roll driving.
2. V-Belt Tension
Slide the motor base and the V-belt tension. Checking point's are-
a. Size circulation pump
b. Winding motor
190
15.5.2 Every three month inspection

1. Steam strainer cleaning:
Clean the strainer two or three days after starting operation for the first time. Clean it every
three months after.
2 .Take up box frame and hydraulic unit:
Check the oil amount in the take up box frame and hydraulic unit. Supply if it is necessary. lf
oil is dirty replaces it .
3 Pressure drop after passing the air filter in the pneumatic piping
When the pressure difference between the primary and secondary side reaches 0.1 MPa
replace the element
4 Cleaning of the steam trap
Clean the steam trap two or three days after starting operation for the first time. Clean it
every three months after that.
15.5.3 Every six month inspection
Polish the rubber rolls in the sizing section every six months.
Check the bearings.
Tools for assembly
1.I-ton chain block: Four sets
2.1 ton fork lift ; 1-2 sets
3. Transit and stepladder
15.6. Lubrication
1. Position and required amount

191
Table 15.6.1.Lubrication Position and required amount
15.6.2. Recommended Oil
Table 15.6.2.1. Recommendation Oil

15.6.3 Lubrication Points
Table.15.6.3.1 Lubrication points

192
15.6.4 Recommended Lubricants
Table.15.6.4.1 Recommendation lubricants
15.6.5 Tools and Their Functions
Table.15.6.5.1 Tools and their function

193
15.7 Maintenance of Loom
Table 15.7.1. Inspection and Maintenance after Weaving

194
15.7.2 Every Six Month Inspection And Maintenance
Table 15.7.2.1. Every Six Month Inspection And Maintenance
15.7.3 Yearly Inspection and Maintenance
Table 15.7.3.1. Yearly Inspection and Maintenance

195
CHAPTER 16: UTILITY SERVICE

16.1. Introduction:
In a woven textile mill the core operation is production of woven fabric. To run the
operations effectively we need electricity, compressed air, water, gas and steam etc. This
is provided by a team of engineers, and this forms the utility department in a textile
industry. Utility department is also responsible for ensuring the climate within the
weaving department by keeping the humidity and temperature under control. Investors
typically treat utilities as long term holdings and use them to inject steady income in their
portfolios
16.2. Sources of Utility

The sources of utility areas follows-
❖ Chiller
❖ A/C Plant
❖ Generator
❖ Air Compressor
❖ Boiler
16.3. Chiller
A chiller is a machine that removes heat from a liquid via a vapor-compression,
adsorption, refrigeration, or absorption refrigeration cycles. This liquid can then be
circulated through a heat exchanger to cool equipment. As a necessary by-product,
refrigeration creates waste heat that must be exhausted to ambience, or for greater
efficiency, recovered for heating purposes. Chilled water is used to cool and dehumidify
air in mid to large size commercial, industrial, and institutional facilities. Water or liquid
chillers can be liquid-cooled, air-cooled, or evaporative-cooled
196
Figure 16.3.1.1: Vapour absorption chiller and cooling tower (From left to right)
16.3.1. Specifications: ( Vapor Absorption Chiller)
Rated cooling capacity 453 TR

Rated chilled water flow 177.7m³/h
Rated cooling water flow 455m³/h
Rated steam pressure 8.0bar
Operating weight 15.2Tones
Power supply- 3ᴓ 415V, 50 Hz
Rated current 15.5A
Table 16.3.1.2: Specification of Vapor Absorption Chiller
16.3.2. Specifications:(Cooling Tower)
Rotate speed 165r/min

Power of motor 15KW
Air flow of Blower Fan 35 ×104m3/h
Output temperature 32°C
Input temperature 37.2°C
Water inlet pressure 56KPa
Number of cooling 03
tower
Running weight 10310×3kg
Table 16.3.2.1: Specification of Cooling Tower
197
16.3.3. Chilled water process flow
Chiller
tower changer
Washer
Chiller
Heat
Filter
Figure 16.3.3.1.: Cycle of chilled water
Capacity of ACS TEXTILES AND TOWEL LTD. is chiller is 453 tons cooling energy. This
chiller is vapor absorption types and works on closed loop cycle. At the time of operation off,
cooling tower remain filled with Nitrogen gas to resists calling.
16.4. A/C Plant

Air conditioning is the process of treating air also as to control simultaneously its temperature,
humidity, cleanliness and distribution to meet the requirements of “conditioned space”.An air
conditioning system may use heating, cooling, humidifying, de-humidifying and filtering units
of combination of these depending up on the outside weather. The capacity of an air
conditioning system is directly proportional to the heat load in the system. The heat loads consist
so internal heat which is almost constant for textiles mills and transmission heat which varies
from time to time and season.
198
16.4.1. Air conditioning system
Figure16.4.1.1. Process flow of Air conditioning system
16.4.2. Air conditioning process flow-chart
Fresh Water Inlet
(From Environment)
Water House
Air Supply Fan
Supply Air To Loom Shade
Duct Line
199
Air Filter
Return Fan
Environment
16.4.3. Specification Of A/C Plant
Number of Unit 02(Each unit contain 100

looms)
Total number of Washer House 04
Number of supply fan per Washer 02
House
Total number of Supply Fan 08
Total number of Return Fan 06
Heat Exchanger 04
Air Filter 06
Damper types 04
Dust Collector Bag 12
Air change 40 times/hr.
Air Temperature at the time of entering 10-12°C
Loom shed
Air temperature at Loom shed 25±2°C
Humidity at Loom shed 78±2%
Table 16.4.3.1Specification Of A/C Plant

200
Air conditioning plants are installed to maintain correct ambient condition for weaving process
to work smoothly. There are two types of cool air flow in the loom shed. One types for operators
and others for the looms. Normal temperature for loom shed is 25±2°C and relative humidity is
78±2% (for loom) and 65±2% (for human). Air conditioning system is depends on environment,
shed space, chiller etc.
16.5. Air Compressor
A compressor is a mechanical device that increases the pressure of a gas by reducing its volume.
An air compressor is a specific type of gas compressor. To an outsider, reliable compressed air
may not seem like a major requirement in the textile industry. However, It is necessary at almost
of all level of supply chain, one that can make the difference between fast and effective
processing in the competitive industry . Compressed air powers Air-jets looms, adds texture to
fabrics and other details that increase the value of finished products, powers tool that keep
facilities clean and equipment working its best.
Figure16.5.1 Air compressor process flow in SAPL

201
16.5.2 Specifications of Air compressor
Number of Air compressor 06

Brand Atlas Copco
Model ZT250VSD
Max .working pressure 8.6bar
Total rated power 257KW
Rotational shaft speed 2970r/min
Gross mass 5750Kg
Required electric energy 250KWper 1compressor
Outlet compressed air pressure 6.6bar
Outlet Compressed air temperature 36°C
Table 16.5.2.1 : Specifications of Air compressor
16.5.3 Air Pressure Distributed At different sections

• Hard winding– 2bar
• Warping-5 bar
• SIZING-5bar (Creel, Size box, Dryer, Winding, Beaming)
• Loom-7bar
• Handloom-3bar
16.6 Water
16.6.1. Water consumption
Several submersible and centrifugal pumps ensure continuous supply of water for
ACS Textiles (Bangladesh) Ltd. and service water is supplied by WASA.
Consumptionin1515(Jan-Dec) Amount
Total Ground Water [m³] 3,810,635
Table 16.6.1.1.Water consumption

202
16.6.2. Water Treatment Plant (WTP)
Water softening process is used in ACS Textiles (Bangladesh) Ltd Deep well water is supplied
by several sub-miscible pumps, but this water cannot be used directly n textile processing
because it contains various salts otherwise known as hardness. This hardness must be removed
or minimized by water treatment plant.
➢ Objective
• To make suitable water for Dyeing, Sizing, Finishing
• To minimize various type of marks.
➢ Effects
• Various type of marks in fabric, Dyeing problem
Table 16.6.2.1.Water Treatment Plant( WTP)

203
16.6.3. Flow Diagram of WTP
Supply Water
Figure 16.6.3.1. WTP

204
16.6.4. Steam
Size setting - machines like stenters are used to adjust size to a range in open Width
fabrics. Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet continuous
demand of steam in different sections. Steam is the vaporized of water which contains heat
energy and transfer that energy into variety of processes in textile industry. Boilers are the
common installation in utility plants to produce steam. A boiler is a closed vessel into which
water is heated until the water is converted into steam at required pressure
16.6.5 In textile industries steams are used in:

• Drying - for drying of textile fabrics, steam is the main utility.
• Garment industry - steam is used for iron pressing them before packing.
• Thermoset - for preshrunk garments, steam is used to shrink and thermoset
the fabrics.
16.7 Effluent Treatment Plant
Figure.16.7.1.1.ETP
205
16.7.1. Objectives
This process is provided for treating the effluents of dyeing, finishing, and weaving &
thus allow discharging it’s per norms given by World Bank department of environment
of Bangladesh.
16.7.2 Schematic Diagram of Effluent Treatment Plant
Figure 16.7.2.1 Schematic diagram of effluent treatment plan
16.7.3 Major dye house effluent contaminations

• Suspended solids
• Biodegradable organics x Pathogens
• Nutrients
• Refractory organics x Heavy metal
• Dissolve inorganic solid
16.7.4 Types of ETP

Effluent treatment plant can be 4 types. They are-
• Chemical ETP
• Biological ETP
• Biochemical ETP &
• Electrical coagulation ETP
206
Table 16.7.4.1. ETP in ACS Textiles and Towels ltd.
16.7.5 Some Pictures of Different section of Effluent Treatment Plant
Figure 16.7.5.1. Out let tank

207
Figure 16.7.5.2. Processing Tank
16.8 Generator
In electricity generation, a generator is a device that converts motive power (mechanical
energy) into electrical power for use in external circuit. There are 02 generator in ACS
TEXTILES AND TOWEL(BD) LIMITED Total capacity (power generation) of the two
generators are 4 MW where total consumption is 3.25 M Watt pick hour.
Figure16.8.1: Control panel of Generator

208
16.9 Electric Energy Distribution at various sections
Electric energy distribution

S/L DB/0.BBT Connected Running Phaseload in KW
name load(KW) load(KW) R Y B
1 250 ABBT for 57.84 35 10 13 12
lighting
2 Utility ground 10 6 1.9 1.95 2.15
floor
3 Kitchen building 30 19 6 7 6
4 L-PH-CHI-DB- 115.5 56 19 18 19
17
5 1500 ABBT 1107. 415 14 141 168
Sizing/Warping 05 3
6 3150 A 827.2 800 26 266 268

BBT 6
Compressor
7 1600 ABBTAC 612 438 40 134 130
plant 0
8 1600 ABBT2 412.7 350 11 117 116

ND floor 5 8
09 1600 A 619.9 185 77 78 77

BBT 85
LOOM
10 L-fire-pump-01- 118.2 115 40 41 39
(36)
11 Submersible 55 70 24 18 18
Pump control
panel
Total
Load=3798.675KW
Table 16.9..1. Electric Energy Distribution

209
16.10 Boiler
A boiler is a closed vessel in which fluid (generally water) is heated. The fluid does not necessarily
boil. The heated or vaporized fluid exits the boiler for use in various processes or heating
applications including water heating, central heating, boiler-based power generation, cooking,
and sanitation
Figure 16.10.1: Boiler
16.10.2 Specifications of Boiler
Number of Boiler 02
Capacity 10 ton per boiler
Required electric energy 15KW
Temperature 162°F
Burner type WM-G50/2-A
Used Chemicals MulticareB326, Antiprex AD

1515S, Caustic soda, Salt
Table16.10.2.1. Specifications of Boiler
16.10.3 Steam distributed at different section

▪ Sizing (Cooking)
▪ Chiller
▪ Dye shed (Stenter machine, sanforizing, Pad steaming, Yarn dyeing,
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CHAPTER 17: STORE AND INVENTORY CONTROL
17.1.1. Inventory system for raw materials:
ACS TEXTILES BD LTD. Contain yearly inventory system for raw materials
especially raw yarns are as follows:
1. Cotton
2. Polyester
3. PC
4. CVC
5. Linen in various count of comes from Naheed, Badsha, kamal, Yasmin, NZ, Shiva, Gtn spinning.
Spares:
1. Various types of gears & pinion.
2. Pulley belts
3. Heald frames tools
4. Reed
5. Nozzle valves
6. Drop wires
7. Drop rood
17.2.1 Scope of inventory control
1. Raw materials
2. Dyes store
3. Others chemicals store
4. Grey fabrics
5. Finishing fabric
6. Spare parts
7. General store
8. Capital equipment
9. Accessories
10. Stationary
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17.2.2 Inventory System for Raw Materials:
1. Raw materials partially received from production planning & directly from head office.
2. Material Receiving & Inspection Report (MRIR) is prepared. Received
3. quantity is mentioned & noted down.
4. Submitted to QC department. Some are OK & few rejected.
5. Entry of data of goods in DATATEX.
6. Goods are arranged according to OK or rejected group.
7. Department gives store requisition to warehouse.
8. As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noteddown.
17.2.3. Stages of Grey Fabric Inventory Control

After knitting production
Grey inspection
Warehouse
Batch preparation
Dye house
17.2.4. Stages of Finished Fabric Inventory Control
1. Finishing section
2. After final inspection
3. Warehouse.
17.3. Remarks
The inventory system of BKL covers both knitting & dyeing

inventories. The space is noticed to be insufficient considerably.
An expansion of space is thus desired for sound inventory.
212
CHAPTER 18: MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING
18.1 Merchandising Team
Garment merchandising is an intricate and detail oriented job. If it can be done properly can be
very rewarding. On the contrary, if it is done with lack of knowledge, in sufficient skill and
thoroughness, it can be destructive.
Very skilled and experienced personnel run the B.C section. After receiving an order, the
merchandiser with the help of pattern master calculates the total consumption of fabric. Then
according to the cost detail sheet and the price mentioned by the buyer, costing is done. After
the price is negotiated with the buyer, order is placed to the suppliers of raw material and
accessories.
The manufacturing factory as per the requirement, supplies fabric and a ledger is maintained
regularly to assess the production status. The accessories such as label, button, zipper, sewing
thread, packing materials are collected from outside [sometime mentioned by the buyer]
through back-to-back L/Cs.
Merchandising section monitor the production status regularly and ensure timely delivery of
the shipment.
18.1.1. Development Stage:
Request from buyer for fabric and wash.

↓
Fabric hanger selection by over viewing all the displayed fabrics watch or
fabric provided by the buyer.
↓
Garment preparation from selected or provided fabric according to the spec sheet.
↓
Wash development i.e. whether the wash is feasible or not.
↓
Price quotation for sample as well as bulk production (only for the basic
garments) and informing the buyer.
↓
Proto sample/SMS providing to buyer along with the addition of the embellishment
price.
↓
Order placement according to the response of the sales rate of the SMS.
213
18.1.2. Follow up stages of Bulk Production
Production book upload.

↓
File download from FTP (File Transfer Protocol).
↓
File distribution to the concerned department (CAD +Sample +Print +Embroidery+
washing)
Mail to the Sample Department for TP Clarification; trim consumption and
zipper, collar & cuff measurement.
↓
Mail to Knitting Department for Diameter and GSM according to the fabrication.
↓
Mail to IE for SMV& thread consumption.
↓
Mail to CAD for bulk marker.
↓
PPL is make and mail to Sample Department.
↓
Sample fabric booking.
↓
Missing color standard list make and send to buyer.
↓
LD Requisition send to Lab.
↓
Requisition send to Sample Department.
↓
Marker consumption.
↓
TP Clarification to concern merchandiser of buyer.
↓
HC (High Calculation) receive.
214
↓
Fabric booking [in case of import].
↓
PO (Purchase Order) receive.
↓
Fabric booking [in case of local supplier].
↓
are label booking.
↓
Sewing thread booking.
↓
Other trims booking (Lining, interlining, button, zipper, hangtag, polybag ETC.)
↓
PI (Performance Invoice) of fabric, care label, sewing thread and other trims.
↓
FR (Fast React) entry with delivery dates.
↓
Follow up with supplier to in house all raw materials.
↓
Mail to MCD to prepare for Trim card.
↓
Summary sheet prepare.
↓
Final LD requisition.
↓
Initial lot approval sub plan.
↓
Weekly dye lot sub plan.
↓
Risk Analysis Meeting.
↓
Size set approval from buyer.
↓
215
PCD (Plan Cut Date).

↓
Production follow up with all concerned department.
↓
Final QC schedule informing.
↓
Ex-factory of the order.
18.2. Production Follow Up:

18.2.1 Production Book Upload
Sales rate of the SMS is observed. After 30 days of shipment, buyer sends the production
book (where everything about a particular style is included) to the merchandiser through mail
only when the SMS is approved.
18.2.2 File Download from FTP:
▪ Production book (60-70MB) is downloaded from FTP i.e. File Transfer Protocol.
▪ Tech pack, Art work File (Ai) and overview is summarized from downloaded file.
▪ Softcopy of the tech pack is maintained.
▪ Artwork is in the grid form of background color.
▪ All these required information are summarized against each order of a season and gathered
together for manufacturer's personal requirement and ease of work handling sand
completion execute the order.
18.2.3 File Distributed to the Concerned Department:

Merchandiser distributes the file to the CAD, Sample, Print, Embroidery and Washing
Department by FTP server/pen-drive/internet sharing of PC. Every department receives the
file and observes their production capacity as well as capability . if any problem is faced by
the concerned department, then it has to be informed as early as possible to the merchandiser.
Such as, during grading of the style if any technical change is required, then the CAD
department must have to inform the merchandiser about it. At initial stage, file is not provided
to the QC Department. Rather it is provided when production gets started.
216
18.2.4 Mail to Sample Department:

Merchandiser collects information from Sample department about any technical change
required to make the garment that varies from tech pack. Consumption of trims (along with
accessories). Consumption of collar and cuff (additional fabric except body fabric). All size
grading.
18.2.5 Mail to production (dyeing, printing and finishing):

Merchandiser sends mail to the production unit mentioning. The fabrication i.e. name,
construction, GSM of the body fabric. Merchandiser wants to know about the width along with
the width from the supplier in order to fix the marker length & marker width for the highest
efficiency.
18.2.6 Mail to IE Department:

Merchandiser sends mail to the IE department. For giving SMV of the style considering m/c
capacity and work force. For informing total, thread consumption.
18.2.7 Mail to CAD for Bulk Marker:

Merchandiser sends mail to the CAD department after getting response from knitting
department (regarding their possible width of fabric production) in order to prepare costing
marker for bulk production.
As marker efficiency largely depends on fabric diameter and costing largely depends on
costing/bulk marker, hence it is finalized after getting assurance off a dia.
18.2.8 PP List Make and Mail to Sample Department
• If buyer wants any change in style, then merchandiser lists down the changes that is
known as PP list i.e. Pending Point list ands ends to the Sample section.
• PP list is made on changing color, changing measurement etc.
• If measurement is changed, then fit sample is made for approval.
• If color is changed, then mock up for a particular part is made and sent to buyer for
approval.
• When OKP (Ok for Production) is received from buyer, only then bulk production
can be started.
217
18.2.9 Sample Fabric Booking:

• After sending SMS and before starting bulk production, sample fabric is needed to be
booked for Bulk Sign Off (when a fabric that is available or newly developed is
finalized for bulk production considering feasibility).
• Bulk sign off is made according to the FTDS (Fabric Technical Data Sheet).
• Bulk sign-off is required for fabric hanger.
• Also required for the approval of the Strike off i.e. when only embellishment (Printing
or embroidery) approval is needed.
• Required when wash is not included in SMS but added later. In that case, trial on
wash and submitted for approval.
• Missing Color Standard List Make and Send to Buyer:
• When only color name is provided but any swatch or pantone is not provided as a
reference, then merchandiser asks the buyer to provide the references for missing
color standard.
18.2.10 LD Requisition Send Lab:

For Lab dip, information is provided to lab that contains-
✓ Fabrication (construction, consumption, GSM. Color code, Reference (swatch /
pantone no).
18.2.11 Requisition Send to Sample:

Merchandiser sends requisition to the sample department to prepare sample for taking
approval.
18.3 Marker Consumption:

❖ Costing marker is accomplished after getting assurance of fabric diameter and bulk
marker is made after receiving the sample fabric.
❖ Bulk marker may be 4-5% more efficient than costing marker as lay length is more
available in bulk than assumed in costing marker.
❖ If 5% more GSM is provided from the supplier, then total amount of fabric is decreased
due to increased weight as fabric diameter is fixed, fabric length gets shorten.
❖ It creates problem in getting calculated or expected marker efficiency. In that case,
claim for rest weight fabric to the supplier.
❖ TP Clarification to the Concerned Merchandiser of Buyer:
❖ If any information is missing in tech pack, then it is asked to the concerned merchandiser
to provide.
218
18.4 HC receives:
It is the estimation on the SMS sales rate, depending on which buyer provides projection of order
quantity. After HC receive, it is assumed that order is quite confirmed.
18.5.1 Fabric Booking (in Case of Import):

Generally, booking takes place after receiving PO; but when fabric has to be imported from
abroad, then fabric booking is carried out after receiving High Calculation in order to maintain
on time shipment.
Fabrication i.e. construction, composition, GSM, total quantity, fabric diameter, color etc. Must
have to be provided accurately.
18.5.2. PO (Purchase Order) Receive:

• Purchase Order is a document where buyer mention total quantity of a particular style,
breakdown of the size or assortment, packaging method, delivery date etc.
• Any kind of technical change provided by buyer must be completed before PO.
• Order is confirmed after receiving PO.
• PO is received 90 days ahead of ex-factory.
• After receiving PO, booking of all raw materials get started
18.5.3. Fabric Booking (in Case of Local Buyer):

After receiving PO, fabric booking has to be completed within 3days after receiving PO or 87
days of ex-factory. Fabrication has to be provided accurately.
18.5.4. Care Label Booking:

Care label booking has to be completed within 5 days of PO receive i.e. 85 days of ex-
factory. Care label booking requires 2 part- variable and manual. Care label contains:
Buyer name
Style no
Color name
Care symbol
Fabrication
Composition of fabric (shell & trim, when above 5% of body fabric
consumption)
Instruction (washing, bleaching, drying, dry cleaning)
Special care instruction (wash separately; do not iron print, trim,
accessories; inside out etc.)
Country language where delivered.
219
18.5.5 Sewing Thread Booking:
Sewing thread booking has to be completed within 5 days of PO receive i.e. 85 days
of ex-factory. Booking depends on the lay out provided by the IE department. MOQ
(minimum order quantity) of sewing thread is SMV wise Higher the amount of order
quantity, lower the amount of wastage
Others Trim Booking:
Generally, finishing accessories are order booked after the sewing accessories.
Finishing accessories booking has to be completed within 10days of PO receive
i.e. 80 days of ex-factory.
Finishing accessories booking contains booking of button, zipper, cartoon, polybag, hanger,
interlining etc.
❖ Button:
Color, quantity, hole, construction etc. has to be mentioned accurately.
Plastic & Horn button are booked in Gross Grain (GG).
Metal and Shank button are booked in Gross.
Color, construction, length, end has to be mentioned properly.
❖ Zipper:
Open end/close end should be mentioned properly.
Color reference i.e. swatch or pantone must have to provide.
When DTM (Dye to Match) is recommended, then body fabric or lab
Anti-back staining agent is mentioned in case of contrast color.
❖ Carton:
Carton ply mentioning is a must during carton booking.
Carton ply may be 3ply, 5ply,7ply.
18.5.6. PI of Raw Materials:
PI (Performa Invoice) has to be received within 48 hours of booking.
Performa Invoice consists of-
• Full address of importer.
• Product category.
• Unit price of product.
220
18.5.6.1. Process of Receiving PI:
Supplier acceptance PO Receive

↓
Raw Material booking
↓
PI receive (Provided by supplier)
↓
CI (Commercial Invoice) [back-to-back L/C or Telephonic Transfer] When more than $ 800,
then L/C transmission.
When less than $800, then through Telephonic Transfer.
↓
L/C transmission copy (3/4 days)
↓
Work order & delivery invoice.
Follow up with Supplier to in-house Raw Materials:
Each raw material must be in-house 45 days of ex-factory. Raw materials are required to
make size sets sample.
18.5.6.2 Mail to MCD to Prepare for Trim Card:

Merchandiser sends mail to the MCD to prepare trim card.
After in housing all raw materials, trim card is necessary which contains all the raw materials
to make a garment. Trim card is necessary to take approval.
18.5.7.1. Summary Sheet Preparation:

• Prepared from PO.
• Contains booking of all raw materials and in housing.
• Approval arrange for Sealer sample/ Trim Card/ Strike off/ WPPS
• Prepared to track all PO of a season.
• Prepared to check all the approvals
221
18.5.7.2. Analysis Meeting/PP Risk Meeting:
Meeting held by the merchandisers to discuss the problems regarding making size set with
concerned merchandiser or buyer QC team.
It is necessary for the personnel to be presenting the meeting from every department.
Conclusion is necessary for executing production.
18.6.1 Initial Lot Approval Sub Plan:
Determination of the no of batch of dyeing required completing the total order quantity.
No of batch depends on type of m/c, capacity of m/c and total amount of the order quantity.
It requires-
Approval of lab dip.
Bulk sign off.
Test report.
No of batch = Total no of order quantity / Capacity of machine. Process of approval:
Approved Lab Dip
↓
Initial lot dyeing
↓
Initial lot approval (35 days ahead of ex-factory)
↓
Second to last batch approval using initial lot approval
18.6.2. Weekly Dye Lot Sub Plan:
Second to last batch is dyed and approved using initial lot approval.
Executed 25days ahead of ex-factory.
222
18.7. PCD (Plan Cut Date):

Starts 38 days ahead of ex-factory.
Includes the schedule of cutting, printing, embellishment.
18.7.1. Production Follow up:
Production follow up is one of vital responsibilities of merchandiser. Without proper follow

up, it becomes difficult to maintain on time delivery (OTD).
18.7.2. Cutting:
Cutting has to be closed 15days ahead of ex-factory.

Cutting piece per day = Total amount of cutting /Total working days of cutting (15 days).
Printing:
• Printing has to be closed 10 days ahead of ex-factory.

• Printing piece per day =Total amount of printing/ Total working days of printing
(15days).
18.7.3. Sewing:
• Sewing has to be closed 5 days ahead of ex-factory when non- wash. Sewing has to be
closed 10/15 days ahead of ex-factory when wash has to be executed.
• Finishing has to be closed before final QC.
18.7.4. Final QC Schedule Informing:
Buyer merchandiser or buyer final QC team informs the merchandiser about final QC schedule
on which shipment depends. Merchandiser informs the Finishing department about the
schedule. Buyer QC team checks the cartoons randomly ,provides their opinion upon which the
shipment depends
223
18.7.5 Ex-Factory of the Order:
During ex-factory, two issues are most important.
First one is the maintaining the breakdown of the PO during shipment i.e.no of shot of
delivery of the total order quantity. When very there are a few orders, then delivery is
executed in one shot. When order quantity is large, then delivery is on various shots.
Second one is ex-factory of the order maintaining the cut off plan i.e. ex-factory of the order
ahead of the days (may be 2/3) that is required to reach to the port and directly getting on
the vessel after completing the formalities, rather than payment of the extra charge for
waiting at the port for the next vessel due to missing the booked on.
18.7.6 Cost Analysis

Costing system mainly describe how the cost of the final product is fixed by the company top
managements.As it is a garments manufacturing factory, so according to the buyer
customer requirements of final garments, merchandiser give the consumption of fabric
with specifications.The nit is calculated how much dye stuffs &chemicals are required
for processing. After that, the final cost is fixed including some profit. Then the unit
price is offered to the buyer for their approval.
18.7.7 Costing of a Product Includes:

1. Dyes & chemicals cost
2. Cost of dyeing
3. Cost of finishing
4. Cost of cutting, sewing, accessories etc.
5. Cost of printing
6. Labor cost (direct & indirect)
7. Factory cost
8. Office & administrative cost
224
18.8 Marketing:
Marketing is the communication between a company and the consumer audience

that aims to increase the value of the company or its merchandise, or to raise the
profile of the company and its products in the public mind.
18.8.1. Fabric Marketing Process:
Order receiving
Swatch analysis
Costing
Sample Development
Buyer Approval
Receiving Booking Sheet
Sending Performa Invoice
Issuing Letter of Credit
Collection of grey Fabric
Pretreatment
18.8.2. Responsibility of Marketing Officers:
• To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer.

• To take different steps by discussing with the high officials &
merchandisers.
• To maintain a regular and good relationship
between commercial officer &merchandisers.
• To maintain a regular communication with the
buyers & buying houses. Communicate with the
new buyers.
• Display the better criteria of the products.
225
18.8.3. Some Pictures of Home Design Studio:
Fig. 18.8.3. Home Studio

226
Chapter 19: Sustainability

ACS Textiles is a 100% British investment established in 1504. It is a name emblematic of trust
and superior quality in Home Textiles. As a state-of-the-art composite manufacturing facility
with weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing, and packaging services, all offered under a single
expansive roof, ACS stands as one of the largest of its kind in the industry.
ACS Textiles BD Ltd is an award-winning environmentally conscious company, the company

sets sustainability practices as the core of the business. The company found sustainability as
profitability in different magnitude. Recently the company became the first ‘Zero Discharge of
Hazardous Chemicals’ (ZDHC) contributor from Bangladesh to use their expertise to help
create and develop ZDHC standards, tools, guidance, and training. Stockholm International
Water Institute (SIWI) Award 1516 also awarded the company for outstanding achievement in
sustainable water management and certificate of participation.
Figure.19.1.1. ACS Textile and Towels ltd
Figure 19.1.2. Mission statement board of ACS Textiles Ltd.

227
Figure 19.1.3.ACS Textiles BD Ltd Solar Panel
The company also plan to install 300 KWH capacity solar panel by 1515 that will allow the
company to reduce the carbon footprint significantly. Also, they have planted 900 trees in
factory premises and the above measures in total reduce 72% of CO2 emission by September
1518.
Process and heat energy management:
Till 1517 they have saved 34.57% of heat energy and set a target to save 40% within 1515.
Caustic recovery plant has been set, which can save up to 98% of caustic soda from the
mercerizing process. This could save up to 330000 m3 of water per year. That means 66000
kWh energy saved in 1517. This process allows less TDS on ETP and less environmental
impact and economic benefit for ETP management.
Figure 19.1.4. Exhaust heat exchanger.

228
They also have installed a heat exchanger in the exhaust of 5 generator engines for supplying
hot water to the fabric dyeing section, thereby saving about 4 tons of steam that would have
otherwise been required for the heating of water. One more waste heat recovery boiler is being
ordered for utilizing heat energy from 4 more gas generators.
• In the dyeing machine, they have installed heat exchanger, drained hot water after
dyeing is supplied for pre-heating of feed water circulating through coils fitted in the
feed water tank where latent heat of condensate is utilized.
• Waste management for ensuring reduce, reuse and recycle (3R)
• Till 1517 their 3R process reduced 5% of wastage and set a target to reduce 49% within
1515.
• The company is converting pillowcase from waste cut pieces by an in-house facility and
finally rejected/wasted cut pieces are delivered to Dipu Enterprise (waste contractor) for
• recycling. All attendance register, leave register and others are maintained by
software documentation and internal communication also conduct by mail
instead of a memo,
• and wasted papers are sent to Sonali Paper Mills for recycling by Rahat
Enterprise Waste Contractor).
• Unused surplus and wasted sewing thread are sorted by color wise for reusing and spare
threads are converted to solid color by in-house yarn dyeing facility.
Figure.19.1.5.Caustic Recovery Plant ACS Textiles BD Ltd

229
Chapter 20: Process in NZ Denim Ltd.
In NZ denim, an opportunity was given to learn about the denim preparation process step by step
and denim is one of the most exportable textile products in Bangladesh. There are some exceptional
procedures practiced in denim production, which is different from other weaving production.
20.1 Process flow in NZ denim
Fig.20.1.1: Process flow in NZ Denim

230
20.2 Machine Description
Process Machine specification Machine
Warping ▪ Machine Name:

High Speed Warping
Machine
▪ No. of m/c: 03
▪ Brand Name: PANON
▪ Model: PLW-84
▪ Origin: Taiwan
▪ Creel capacity: 650
▪ Speed: 1000 RPM
▪ Beam length: 73 Inch
▪ Capacity per beam:
1025 kilograms
Slasher Dyeing ▪ Machine Name:
Continuous dyeing and
sizing machine
▪ Brand Name: PANON
▪ Manufacturer:
PLANLON
INDUSTRIAL CO.
LTD.
▪ Origin: Taiwan
▪ Year:2016
▪ Max Speed: 35 RPM
▪ Warp beam feed
capacity:24
▪ Input accumulator
yarn capacity: 90-110m
▪ Total no. of bath: 17
▪ Bath volume:
1600-2200 liters
231
▪ Pre-wetting bath: 2
▪ Indigo bath:1-8
• Sulphur
Black
bath:1-3
▪ Washing bath:5
▪ Drying cylinder
unit 1(dyeing): 10
▪ Drying cylinder
unit 2(sizing): 14
▪ Drying cylinder
temperature capacity:
150
°C
▪ Pressure range:
Upto 7 kilograms
▪ Sizing bath: 2
▪ Output
accumulator yarn
capacity: 100m
▪ Beam
tension: 50-600
kilograms
Weaving
01)
▪ Brand Name: Picanol
▪ Model: OMNI
plus Summum
▪ Country of Origin: Belgium
02)
▪ Model: OMNIplus 800

232
03)
▪ Model: OptiMax-i
Finishing 01) Singeing machine:

▪ Brand Name: DHALL
▪ Country of origin:
India
▪ Maximum speed:
80m/min
▪ Width control
capacity: Up to 82”
▪ Nip roller speed:

120m/min
▪ Total guide roller: 6

▪ Brusher unit: 1
▪ Brusher roller: 2
▪ Brusher to fabric
distance: 0-10 mm
▪ Beating unit: 1
▪ Burner unit: 2
▪ Burner to fabric
distance: 10mm
▪ Temperature:
(60-70)°C
▪ J-box: 2
233
02) Pad Steam m/c :

▪ Brand Name: SAGA
China
▪ Speed: 10-20m/min
▪ Width control
capacity: Up to 80”
▪ Volume of chemical
bath: 800 liters
▪ Total wash box: 10

▪ Volume (1st and
2nd): 800 liters
▪ Volume(3rd to 10th):
800 liters
▪ Temperature first 6
box: 50-90°C
▪ 7th box: Room

temperature
▪ Total dry cylinder: 30
03) Cibitex :
▪ Model: Bluetex
▪ Country of origin: Italy
▪ Width Control
capacity: 82-70m
▪ Padder volume: 600L

▪ Total no. of drying
roller: 16
▪ Drying temperature:
150°C
234
04) Stenter m/c :

▪ Brand Name: Sun
Super
South Korea
▪ Machine speed: 5-80

m/min
▪ Bath volume: 80L

▪ Skew roller: 3
▪ Nip roller: 2
▪ J-box Width: 2
▪ Control Capacity: 75”
Inspection ▪ Brand: Yuyao

Textile Machinery Co.
Ltd.
▪ Model: MB551FBL
▪ Country of
origin: China
▪ Machine speed: 5-80
m/min
▪ Total no. of
machine: 01
Washing 01) Sample washing
m/c-1:
▪ Brand Name:
YILMAK
▪ Model: HBM 525 S

▪ Country of
Origin: Turkey
235
02) Sample Washing

m/c-2:
▪ Brand Name: Aziz

Metal Engineering
Works
▪ Country of Origin:
Bangladesh
03) Dryer m/c-1:
▪ Brand Name: YILMAK

▪ Model: HNS 600
Turkey
04) Dryer m/c-2:
▪ Brand Name: Aziz

Metal Engineering
Works
Bangladesh
05) Hydro m/c:
▪ Brand Name: YILMAK

* Model: HG 30
* Country of Origin:
Turkey
Table 20.2.1: Machine description

236
20.3 Process Description
✧Raw material sourcing :

NZ group has its own spinning unit. Various types of yarn can be produced in the spinning
section. Sometimes yarns are sourced from other renowned spinning mills and also exported
from China, India etc.
✧ Warping :
Generally warping yarns are collected in a sheet form where the yarns lie parallel to each other
and in the same plane on to a beam, which is a cylindrical barrel with two side flanges. The
industrial warping process can be carried out according to different technologies:
● Direct warping
From these, NZ Denim Ltd. follows only direct warping.
✧Slasher dyeing :
At NZ Denim Ltd. dyeing carried out in sheet form, then in the same machine sizing done
after dyeing of yarn.
✧Weaving :
In the weaving floor, Drawing in is the first process that is done to the weaver's beam, just
arrived from sizing floor. In NZ Denim Ltd. 3/1 right handed twill denim is mostly produced.
Drawing-in is done manually. Open Shed is mainly practiced at NZ Denim Ltd. In NZ Denim
Ltd. there are two shedding types: • Cam Shedding • Electronic Dobby Shedding There are two
types of weft insertion system available in NZ Denim Ltd.
• Air Jet
• Rapier
✧Finishing :
Finishing of gray denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an important role
in fabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric shrinkage.
● Singeing machine is used to remove protruding fiber, hairiness, and neps from fabric
surface.
● Process done in pad steam machine
• Over dyeing
• Scouring
• Bleaching
• De-Sizing
• Mercerizing
• Hot wash
237
● Cold wash Cibitex Finishing Machine Purpose:

• Softening
• Skewing
• Bowing
• Length & Width shrinkage control
● Stenter Machine Purpose:
• Heat setting
• Pudding (Colour coating)
• Width & Length shrinkage control
✧ Inspection :
Inspection can be defined as measuring, testing, gauging, one or more characteristics of a product or
source comparing these with specific requirements to determine conformity. It is the process of
checking the fabric sheet for detecting faults in the fabric and preparing an inspection report. After
inspection, grading of the fabric is done according to the fabric quality level. NZ Denim follows a
4- point system.
✧ Washing : Washing plays such an important part in the denim chain because of the various
effects that the consumers are looking for on their jeans.
Types of washing:
1. De-Size wash
2. Enzyme wash
3. Enzyme stone wash
4. Bleach wash
5. Neutral wash
6. Towel Wash
7. Acid Wash
20.4 Quality Control in NZ Denim Ltd.
NZ Denim ltd. is very sincere about maintaining quality. Both online and offline quality is checked
here in different stages of the production process & finally the finished product is tested according
to the buyer's given standard.
✧ Quality check for yarn:
• Warp and weft count (Warp count = 50-90 tex, Weft count = 75-120 tex)
• Count CV%
238
• CSP= Strength x Count

• Tenacity
• TPI = TM x (count)^1/2
• Fiber composition = Cotton 100%, CVC, PC,
• TM = 4.9, 5.2, 5.5
✧ Quality check for warping:
• Warping ratio and divide of total warp beam

• Creel tension (Depends on the fineness of the yarn)
✓ Coarse Yarn – higher tension
✓ Fine Yarn – low tension
• Ends/beam ( 525 – 565)
• Set length (14000 yds per beam)
• Machine speed (Warping Speed 500-550 m/min)
• Breakage per million = 0.5-2
✧ Quality check for dyeing:
• Dyeing route
• Volume = 1000 L
• Shade% = 2.5 – 5%
• GPL = 1.5 – 2.5
• pH = 10.5 - 12
• Dosing = 15-25 sec
• Temperature = 95-100 degree celcius
• Padder and beam pressure = 5-10 ton
• Set length and machine speed = 25-35 m/min
✧ Quality check for sizing:
• Viscosity =
• RF % = 7-9%
• Pickup %
• Solid content
Cotton = 55-70%
50/50 PC= 45-50%
Viscose = 55-70%
• Volume of size tank and bath = 750-850L
• Temperature = 85-95 degree celcius
• Padder and steam pressure= 3.5 – 5 bar
• Set length and machine speed = 50-55 m/min
239
• ✧ Quality check for weaving:
• Construction of fabric = Twill

• Weave design = 2/1, 3/1, 4/1 RHT, Broken Twill, Reverse Twill
• Reed count = 12 to 18
• Reed space = 68.5 inch
• Grey EPI and PPI = 84 & 55
• Efficiency and RPM of loom = 85 to 90%
• Grey width = 65”, 60”, 55”
• Grey GSM = 305 to 475
• ✧ Quality check for finishing:
• Skew = weft skewing 8% (Approx. 12 cm)

• EPI & PPI = 85-88 & 55-59
• Fabric Width = Reduced after finishing (157cm to 151cm)
• Padder pressure= 1.5 – 2 bar
• Air Pressure = 10 bar
240
CHAPTER 21: Conclusion

We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill during
the training period. We've received co-operation & association from the authority fully. All the
machines & materials found on appreciable working condition. All the stuffs & officers were
very much helpful to us. We apologize for our any behavior which may disappoint the officers
and personnel. Due to secrecy act, all the data on costing & marketing activities has not been
supplied & hence the data given regarding to this do not resemblance to the actual data. The
whole process is not possible to bind in such a small frame as this report, hence our effort spent
on summarizing, not describing them.
21.1. Reference
ACS TEXTILES DESK

acsinfo@acstextiles.com
info@nztexgroup.com
nztexgroup.com
21.2. Supervising teachers:
Md. Jahangir Alam , Weaving Supervisr ; ACS Textile and Towels Ltd.
Md. Ekhlas Uddin , HR of Weaving ;ACS Textile and Towels Ltd.
Md. Jalal Uddin , HR and Compliance Manager, NZ Denim LTd.
Md. Raihan Imtiaj , HR executive , NZ Denim LTd
21.3. The other people who are dedicated to us-

Md. Ziaur Rahman, Manager of Admin &HR Md.
Humayun Kabir, Asst. Manager of Admin. Mr.
Ramjan, GM of ACS TEXTILES BD LTD.
Md. Atik; Manager of Pre Production Mr.
Bazwa; Maintenance Officer
Mr. Niyaz Morshed; woven manager
Md. Motin Ahmed, GM of QC
Khen Mong ,Director of NZ Tex Group
And all the stuff and worker who helped us during our industrial training.

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Bangladesh University of Textiles

Report on Industrial Attachment

Internship Duration 1st March 2023 to 7th May 2023

ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd.

We sincerely thank to our teacher A.K.M Ashiqur Rahman (Assistant Professor,

Fig.1.2.1.Location of ACS Textiles and Towels Ltd… .................................................................. 2

Fig.6.1.3.3.1.Sectionalrping machine… ....................................................................................... 49

Fig 6.2.5.1.Viscosity measuring cup… ......................................................................................... 50

Fig 6.2.5.2.Refractometer… ......................................................................................................... 51

Fig.7.2.11.9.1. Selvedge Cutter…............................................................................................... 125

Fig.13.4.2.1. Flow process for Dyeing parameter check… ........................................................ 200

1.1 Background of Internship

● To enlarge the dimension of knowledge regarding fabric manufacturing as well as others.

1.2 Company Profile

▪ Name of the project : ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.

▪ Type of industry : 100% export oriented woven home textiles

▪ Company’s motto : “Make continuous effort to offer our customers

▪ Year of Establishment : 2004,13th april

▪ Monthly meters of production : 3 millions

▪ Production capacity :1,05,000 meters per day

▪ No. of Employees : Approx. 6000

Fig.1.2.1: Location of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd

▪ Address : Tetlabo,Rupgonj, Narayanganj, Bangladesh

▪ Legal status of company : Limited company

▪ Sponsor Banks : 1) Southeast Bank

▪ Insurance : American Life Insurance Company

Tel: +880-2-9561791, +880-2-7160025

▪ Total land area : 5,50,000 square feet

▪ Membership : 1) Bangladesh Textile Mills

3) Narayanganj Chamber Of Commerce &

▪ Valid Licenses and Certificates: Factory license

1.3 Overview of the Organization

Fig.1.3.1: ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.

1.4 Product Mix

Fig.1.4.1: Product Mix

1.5 Different Departments

Fig 1.5.1: Different departments in ACS

● Weaving preparatory & design

● Dyeing & printing

● Terry towel weaving

Fig.1.6.1: Clients of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.

▪ Control union certification -GOTS (Certificate no.C810124GOTS-01.2008):

▪ OEKO-TEX standard 100 (Test no.07 KA.56878):STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®

▪ ISO certification (in the pipeline)

▪ SA-8000 certification (in the pipeline):The SA8000 Standard is an auditable certification

Fig.1.8.1: Certificates of ACS Textiles & Towels Ltd.

1.9 Factory Layout

Fig.1.9.1: Factory Layout

Chapter 2: Human Resource & Compliance

2.2 Shift Change System

Per shift is 8 hours.

▪ 1st Shift : 6:00 A.M - 2:00 P.M

▪ 2nd Shift: 2:00 P.M - 10:00 P.M

▪ 3rd Shift : 10:00 P.M - 6:00A.M

General Shift: 9:00 A.M - 6:00 P.M

• Manage time for interviews and the selection process

• Racism is completely avoided in the recruitment process.