What is Korea is What is Global!

-By Suvigaya

Fashion is one of the windows through which one can look into the history of one's country.
Fashion is about predicting the future by always going back and rediscovering and reforming the
ideas from the past and presenting them in the present. Fashion can be considered as the
expression of culture, society, and people of the country they belong to. 'The land of morning
calm' Korea is an extraordinary country with an incredible history, tradition, culture, and
beautiful landscapes situated on the Korean peninsula. Korean fashion is not only the
representative of its country but also the reflection of its past and the present.
"Hanbok" the national Dress of Korea:

"Hanbok" (한복) is the term created for Korea's traditional clothing in the late 19th century
which is a symbol and hallmark of the unique culture of the Korean peninsula dating back to the
time of 'Samguk-Sidae'(삼국시대) 'Three Kingdom of Korea' and has always been an integral
part of Korean people for the centuries. The history of Hanbok went hand in hand with the
history of the Korean peninsula. The ancient Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori(저고리) a top,
'baji'(바지) pants, and 'chima'(치마) a skirt which was carefully designed to facilitate the ease of
movement. Looking through the three Kingdoms Silla(신라), Baekje(백제), and Goguryeo(
고구려) each has slightly different versions of the Hanbok. Durumagi (두루마기) and jacket
were later introduced into the Three Kingdoms era

Later into time Silla (676-935) was successful in uniting the three kingdoms into one with the
help of the Tang Dynasty of China. This led to the mixing of Baekje and Goryeo cultures with
Silla in addition to the heavy influence of the Tang Dynasty itself. This time was considered as
the golden age of aristocracy, Hanbok then not just became the clothing style of the people but
also the status and position of the person wearing a certain outfit in the society. The Silk and
linen clothing was considered high-end only worn by the royalties and nobilities while the
general populace wore the clothes made from hemp fiber.
During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) The Goryeo King married the Mongolian princess who
brought the Mongolian influence on the Korean clothing. The Jeogori and Chima became
shorter. The dressings of men's and women's clothes were almost similar. Men wore the Jeogori
and Baji along with 'durumagi' while women wore 'jeogori', 'baji' and chima wore their baji
under the chima, bringing out the fact of lessening the discrimination against women and
between classes. The most influence of the Mongolian clothing style can be seen in the outfits of
royals and court officials. The cotton was also introduced in this era and Hanbok was made from
this material for the summers and wool for the winter clothing. The Goryeo dynasty clothing
style not only remained in the Goryeo but also traveled to the Yuan Dynasty, the famous trend
was known as 'Goryeoyang' (고려양). The historical dramas based on the Goryeo dynasty will
make you awestruck and fall in love with not only the characters but also their amazing and
beautiful outfits!
Seeing the drama " The King in Love"(왕은 사랑한다) and "Moonlovers: Scarlet Heart Ryeo"
(달의 연인: 보보경심 려) will make you swoon over the amazing dresses worn by the
characters and also swoon over the characters (I fall in love with IU since I watched her drama!).

After the Goryeo Dynasty was overthrown and the new Joseon Dynasty established itself, there
were significant changes in clothing style throughout the 500 years of the Joseon Dynasty. The
Hanbok style of the Joseon era finally emerged as the unique Korean style of Hanbok which we
also know as the traditional Korean clothing of South Korea. Although the Ming dynasty did
have an influence on Joseon's clothing which mainly can be seen at the royal palace and palace
officials. But Joseon people were successful in adding their own style of patterns and small
details representing their unique clothing style. During the Joseon era, there were significant
changes in the style of Hanbok. Due to the development of the economy, the rules of dressing
became much more relaxed although the influence of Confucianism was still heavily engraved.
The length of women's Jeogori (shirt) became shorter and their chima (skirt) became wider
which served the purpose of hiding the woman's body shape.

When learning about the fashion trends during Joseon, one will find them at the Royal Palace
where the most extravagant and beautiful clothing styles can be seen in the Royal family. The
clothes of the Royals were made of silk and linen which were the finest materials and dyed using
natural dyes, Beautiful patterns were sewed on clothes which were inspired by natural elements
such as flowers like peonies, and lotus, and animals such as Dragon, Phoenixes, cranes and
Tigers can be seen in the royal clothing style. Each of their symbols represents the wearer's
position and each symbol holds a unique meaning. The Dragons with five toes can only be seen
on the Royal Robe of The King and four toes dragon on the robe of the Crown Prince. The
phoenixes were beautifully designed on the royal outfits of the Queen. The flowers and cranes
were reserved for the princesses and concubines of the King. Being an avid drama lover and an
admirer of Korean History I often watch historical Dramas based on the Joseon dynasty which
familiarized me with the Joseon clothing style. The drama 'Under the Queen's Umbrella' not
only made me fall in love with all the characters, especially the Queen (played by Kim Hye Soo)
but also all of her outfits and all the amazing "Hanbok" worn by all the characters. The movie
"Royal Tailor" starring actress Park Shin Hye as the queen showcased us with amazing royal
attires and of course, I bet everyone was mesmerized by the scene where she walked towards the
pavilion in a beautiful white Hanbok making everyone's jaw drop!!

Hanbok was not just a clothing style but also a status symbol in the Joseon Dynasty. Apart from
the material used to make Hanbok, even the color of it determined an individual's status and
social standing in society. The colors used in Hanbok follow five elements of the yin-yang theory
(오방색) which are Red, Blue, yellow, black, and white. The unmarried women wore bright
colors while the married women and middle-aged women wore less bright tones. The people of
the upper class often wore Hanbok of different colors while the commoners and low-status folks
were only allowed to wear white or brown except for special occasions when they were allowed
to wear bright clothes.

While looking at the Hanbok fashion the hairstyle and other accessories also played a huge part
in Hanbok fashion. Unlike previous dynasties, Joseon people tied their hair. The young
unmarried men and boys would tie their hair in a low braid and tie it with a black ribbon while
married men would tie up their hair in a topknot which is called 'sangtu' using 'mangeon' (망건)
a colored strip band and usually wore 'gat'(갓) meaning hat. They would tie their robe with belts
called 'gakdae' (각대) completing their look with the Hanbok. The young unmarried women also
braided their hair and tie it with a red ribbon called 'daenggi' (댕기)at the end, they would
decorate their hair further with accessories like 'dwikkoji' (뒤꽃이),chepji(첲지) were usually
worn by royal and noble ladies and the most common one 'ddeoljam' (떨잠). A woman once
married would tie her hair in a low bun and put on binyeo (빈녀). The Binyeo worn by the
Queen and royal ladies were the most beautiful and spectacular ones. There were various types
of Binyeo worn by different women. Women also styled their Hanbok with the 'Norigae' (노리개
) hung down from their jeogori (shirt), which usually contained perfume pouches. Walking down
the Gyeonbukgang Palace and Hanok village while wearing the traditional Hanbok has become
one of the most wanted tasks on my bucket list.
Hanbok remained the main outfit for almost all of the Joseon Dynasty with quite a few variations
and changes in style of Joseon fashion. Korean Peninsula, since the era of 'The Three Kingdoms,'
remained prone to several invasions from Manchuria and various dynasties of China on the one
end and Japanese invasions on the other end mainly during the 19th century Joseon Dynasty. The
late 19th century saw the end of the Joseon dynasty as Japan took over the control of Joseon
after winning the First Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) and established the Korean Empire
(1897-1910). The effect of Japanese rule had a huge impact on the fashion and clothing style of
the Joseon people. The government tried to wipe off the Korean culture by banning it and instead
introduced Western culture into the country. The Centuries-old Hanbok was forced to be
replaced with the Western Suits called 'yangbok' (양복). The silk hat and halo coat introduced by
Emperor Gojong himself was a major change in Korean clothing culture. This was the time when
the term 'Hanbok' was actually coined to differentiate traditional clothes from the western Suits
'yangbok'. Due to the strong Confucius belief that one's body is a gift from their parents, Koreans
never cut their hair but due to the current regime were forced into adopting Western-style short
haircuts. Hanbok although still remained valid as it continued to be worn by the women and
common poor masses. Koreans at that time preferred to wear white Hanbok which symbolized
purity and grace. The White not only became the Identity of Korean people but they also used it
to represent their opposition to the Japanese regime. Using fashion as a tool for the rebellion was
a remarkable step by the native Korean people!

The period of the Japanese regime saw the transition from the traditional Hanbok to the
increased influence of Western clothes and Korean Fashion took a new direction. Although
Hanbok was still worn by Korean women, the introduction of the 'Flapper Style' in the 1920s
influenced women‘s transition from traditional to 'modern women' fashion. The advancing
change in the social lifestyle due to the imposition of modernization further brought the change
in women's fashion as, women now came out of their houses to work and adopted Western-style
clothing like wearing pants, having western inspired hairstyles, and putting on heavy makeup as
emphasized by Japanese regime. One amazing achievement in the fashion world at that time can
be considered as the opening of 'Yangjae Academy' which was the first kind of fashion education
school in Korea founded by the mother of Korean Fashion Choi Kyung Ja in the 1930s. As the
Second World War came into play the fashion style became militaristic which continued
throughout the end of World War II.

Korean Fashion after the Independence

After the liberation, Korea faced many problems such as extreme poverty, lack of resources, and
huge scarcity of basic needs such as food. There was a slight revival of Hanbok during this time
as Korean people reunited with their own roots to stand together and start anew once again
building in their new country. The general public at that time also used military wear which
came as relief support and converted it into their clothes of ease for example military blankets
were converted into warm clothes for children.

In the 1950s Korean Fashion now entered a new era after the Independence from Japan in 1945
and marked itself as the base of modern Korean Fashion. Overcoming various difficulties various
fashion designers emerged and made a name for them in Korean Fashion. Nora Noh was the
woman and amazing designer behind South Korea's first fashion show which featured famous
actresses and also Miss Korea of that time. Namdaemun market and Dongdaemun market were
the main hubs of the latest fashion and clothing. With the addition to the rise of Korean designers
the American fashion culture also made its way into Korea. Crimpled hair, heavy bold makeup,
and clothes like swimsuits, petty coats, bleached pants, nylon stockings, and tight skirts were the
number one choice of many fashionistas of that time
The era of 1960s marked the increasing economic development and thus people started working
more and preferred work-friendly and comfortable clothes. With western fashion's continued
increasing influence mainly thanks to the Beatles! over Korean fashion Miniskirts, over-fit suits,
blinged-out clutches, and Glovers were usually worn by the general public. Then government's
ban on imported materials and promotion of the use of national resources resulted in the launch
of the local Korean beauty and makeup industry. The 60s marked not only the era of trendsetters
but also using fashion as a way of self-expression
The 70s! Ha! We have now entered the era of bold fashion. Although the 70s is considered a
stagnant era for fashion due to the Government's restrictions and bans on various fashion
broadcasts and fashion magazines and imposing strict laws, one can also consider it as a
rebellious era of people using fashion as a weapon and symbol to fight against the government.
As a result, bold fashion trends such as punk and hippie fashion came into the trend. Youths of
that time started wearing hot pants, bell-bottomed pants, miniskirts, long hair, sunglasses, and
big earrings. Simple fashion such as t-shirts and jeans served as a protest to the current regime.
Also during this time the fashion game totally reversed as the local masses and consumers now
became the trendsetters rather than the designers. It led to the development of local clothing
brands, the opening of brand stores, and departmental stores that sell cheap and comfortable
clothing
It's the time to Disco!! The 80s marked the comeback of Western clothing culture with brands
like Reebok becoming immensely popular. The youth of the 80s were the major trendsetters at
that time. Casual wear such as jeans, t-shirts, and jumpers were the main fashion clothing. Denim
was the new favorite among the youth. Also disco pants made the entrance of the punk and hip
hop era. Working women's fashion also established itself on firm grounds with an increasing
number of women in the workforce. The color TV and fashion magazines helped diversify and
promote the fashion industry further into the rapidly changing and progressing society of Korea.

The 90s was the era when Korea's economy was booming. Slowly and steadily women's rights
were also increasing as society progressed further advancing to new heights. Here arrives "Seo
Taeji and Boys"(서태지 와 아이들) on the scene! Nor did they take over the whole nation with
their amazing rap and hip-hop music genre which is now widely known as K-pop! But at the
same time, they became the new fashion trendsetters in the world of both Korean fashion and
beauty industry. The trend of loose clothing, and bucket hats was started by the 'Seo Taeji and
Boys'. The fashion of that time got the name of 'resistance fashion' led by the youth which is still
relevant even today! Since then K-pop and Korean Fashion have worked hand in hand
 The other celebrities' fashion choices were always on the look for a new trend arrival. The
Fashion designers of that time were also reaching new heights as they expanded over the
international markets!. Fashion designer Lee Shin Woo became the first Korean fashion designer
to showcase his collections in Paris. At the same time, fashion designers like Lee Young Hee, Jin
Tae Ok, Hong Mi Wa, and many others made their mark on the international market representing
the Hanbok-inspired dresses to the Western audience. The fashion groups SFAA(1990) and
NWS (1992) were also established for the promotion of Korean Fashion.

With the arrival of the 21st century Korean fashion also progressed both nationwide and
internationally. Seoul Fashion Week (1987) slowly gained momentum in the 2000s and in a few
years will progress and emerge as the global fashion week starting the K-fashion syndrome.
Nationally the 2000s fashion was in the experimenting era in Korea. Fusions of clothes, bright
colored pants were the hot trend of the 2000s. People started using fashion to put out their unique
identity and to stand out from the crowd. The fashion industry saw a new advancement due to the
establishment of the internet. People started turning towards online fashion stores rather than
going to markets to buy clothes.
The era of 2010 marked the era of individuality. With fashion now accessible to almost
everyone, people now started to diversify it by choosing the clothes of their liking and the style
that suited them best in a way making their own fashion identity in simple words, finding their
own aesthetic! Both the retro and modern clothing styles found their own audience. Aside from
all these styles a new style, "the celebrity-influenced gym clothing" also made its way onto the
trend chart. On the international scene as mentioned before Seoul Fashion Week established
itself as one of the top competitors on the international market. This also led to the origin of K-
fashion syndrome all over Asia.
The "Hallyu wave" (한류) which originally started in the 1990s took over the world from 2010
onwards. The widespread of Korean culture through K-dramas, K-pop, and Korean movies
became popularized all over the world. The Hallyu wave also increased the immense popularity
of Korean Fashion and Korean beauty in the age of Social Media and the internet. Normal
audience and fans of K-pop idols always have their eyes on the latest fashion worn by their
favorite idols. The new fashion and hairstyle trends set by K-pop idols are not just followed by
Korean people but also the fans from all over the world. It is only right to say that Koreans have
now stopped following trends and instead become the trendsetters of fashion not only in Korea
but the world. Korean beauty has also established itself in a big industry in this Hallyu. Korean
Skincare products have grown in immense popularity in recent years due to the craze of Korean
glass skin. The emergence of Korean genderless fashion gained very much popularity with a
large audience. The male K-pop idols wearing crop tops and skirts left me in surprise but also
immense respect for genderless fashion. Both men and women are embracing each other's
fashion and blurring the line between feminine and masculine fashion. Korean fashion has
always been a reflection of its historical context. The National Dress of Korea, 'Hanbok' stands at
the frontline as a symbol of Korean Fashion. Designers like Tchai Kim, Isae, and many more
have made continued efforts to redesign and represent Hanbok in modern Korean Fashion. The
pride in representing Korean culture and Korean traditional fashion can also be seen in the
music, Group concepts, and fashion of many K-pop groups putting an effort to showcase Korean
culture to the Western audience.
Now talking about fashion aside from the mainstream media, idols, and celebrities, the common
Korean people prefer a very moderate style usually wearing warm-toned and comfortable but
fashionable clothes, a minimalistic style which is my personal favorite too. Hongdae, Seoul in
recent decades has emerged as a hub for street style fashion in the Korean fashion market.
Korean Fashion has now gained its own standing in the world fashion industry and continues to
grow. In the age of social media and globalization people have easy access to Korean fashion
clothes, and online retail stores help them to fulfill their dreams of trying out Korean fashion.
And this popularity is sure to remain and increase more as the years come achieving new
milestones.