Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Garments Manufacturing Technology Ok
Garments Manufacturing Technology Ok
Prepared For:
Uttara University
Prepared By:
Jayed hossain
ID: 2193401030
Batch: 22nd
02 Buying House 02
06 GSP 04
18 Garments Accessories/Trims 28
22 Sewing Threads 49
30 Pressing 69
39 Some Important Terms (Penton Number, DTM, Lap dip, Yarn dip, Strike off, 88
Art work, Hand Loom, Swatch, Swatch card, Trim card)
• Spring
• Summer
• Fall
b)
i) Autumn
ii) Winter
July to December
• Without it, the price per unit of garment will rise and this may lead to many
European buyers turning their backs on our products.
Steps of Garments Export Procedure:
1. Inquiry of a product:
First of all, supplier collects the product from the buyer and enquiry the product.
3. Costing/Price Quotation:
Costing means the way of calculating the cost of production of garments.
Costing is done considering-
i) Fabric cost
ii) Accessories cost &
iii) CM (Cost of Making) cost
Way of Costing:
Costing can be done by-
i) Original Sample
ii) Specification
4. Order Confirmation:
An order confirmation is a written document which is issued by buyer to the
manufacturer which contains Tech-pack. It serves as tool to avoid confusion and
mistakes.
5. PO (Purchase Order):
After confirmation of an order buyer provides seller a written document which
mention the order details such as-
- Order quantity
- Delivery date
- Port of destination (POD)
- Item description
- Item unit price etc.
6. Master L/C:
When a L/C is opened to import goods directly from the manufacturer is called
Master L/C. This L/C is issued by the buyer (Buyer’s bank) to manufacturer.
Master L/C has higher financial value than back to back L/C.
7. T & A Calendar Made by the factory:
T & A or “Time and Action” calendar is made by the manufacturer to complete
the production within a specific period of time.
a. Proto Sample:
Features:
✓ This sample is made by available fabric and accessories.
✓ This sample is made before or after order confirmation.
Purpose:
Here buyer checks whether supplier can make the garments.
b. Fit Sample:
Features:
✓ This sample is made by available fabric and accessories.
✓ This sample is made after order confirmation.
Purpose:
Purpose:
Bulk production is done following P.P sample.
d. Size Set Sample:
Features:
✓ These samples are made in all sizes.
✓ These samples are made in the production floor.
✓ These samples are not sent to the buyer.
Purpose:
These samples are only used for PP meeting.
e. Production Sample:
Features:
✓ These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk
production is running.
✓ These samples are sent to the buyer.
Purpose:
Here buyer compares Production Sample with the PP Sample.
Purpose:
Here Testing House tests different aspects of the garments and send “test
report” to the buyer and factory.
Common Tests of Garments: Common tests of garments are below-
Purpose:
Here buyer compares Shipment Sample with Production Sample.
h. Salesman Samples:
The sample which is made for market appraisal or marketing purpose then it is
called salesman sample. It is made at the final stage of order confirmation and
actual materials are used for marketing the sample.
19. Sewing:
Here, all the cutting fabrics are sewn to make the complete garments according
to the approved sample. Different types of sewing machines are used in
production line.
20. Finishing:
All the required finishing procedures are done here by following the buyer’s
instruction.
23. Delivery:
If everything is ok, then manufacturer sent the goods to the buyer.
Line Balancing:
Line balancing is the allocation of sewing machines according to style and design
of garment. It depends on, what type of garments we have to produce. It is done
for increasing production quantity & quality.
In-line Inspection:
During production, buyer QC will come and check the product quality and
suggest to over-come any type of problem. This type of inspection is called In-
line Inspection.
On-line Inspection:
This inspection is done at the end of the production line during production is
called On-line Inspection. This inspection is conducted by the factory QC.
BOM Sheet:
The pages of specification file which contains fabric and accessories detail is
called BOM (Bill of Materials) Sheet.
ICD:
ICD means Inland Container Depot. The goods which are not suitable to transport
in carton because of introducing crease marks. So goods are transport by hanging
in ICD. These goods are suit, blazer, dress pant, dress shirt etc.
Lead Time:
The time between order confirmation to the delivery is called lead time.
Stock Lot:
When goods are made for buyer but not possible to send the goods to buyer due
to failure of commitment with buyer as a result goods stay in store. These goods
are called stock lot.
CM (Cost of Making):
Buyer will provide all the fabric and accessories. Manufacturer has to make
only garment and he will get the making charge only.
What is Inspection?
Activities, such measuring, examining, testing, gauging, one or more
characteristics of a product or service and comparing these with specified
requirements to determine conformity.
What is Testing?
A means of determining the capability of an item to meet specified requirements
by subjecting the item to a set of physical, chemical, environmental, or operating
actions and conditions.
Garments L/C, Delivery & Payment Process Chart:
Different types of Agents in Garments Sector:
1. Currier Companies:
Sample or any other important documents necessary for export are sent by the
currier.
Name of Some Currier:
1. DHL
2. Aramex
3. TNT
4. Fedex
5. UPS
6. Sky net
7. DPEX
8. Dragon
i) Maersk
ii) APL
iii) MGH
iv) NYK
v) Kuhen & Negel
vi) Expolonca
vii) Damco
viii) NMC Corporation Ltd.
ix) HTL Logistic
x) Crown Logistic
4. Bank:
They take care our payment and all financial matters.
5. Testing Companies:
✓ Garment test
✓ Fabric test
✓ Accessories test
✓ Inline-inspection
✓ Pre-final inspection
✓ Final inspection
✓ Garments factory auditing for compliance.
6. Transportation Companies:
Any kind of textile material transport by transportation companies.
Documents required for Export:
1. Trade License:
This license is used for business permission. It is issued by City Corporation or
Poroshova.
8. Memorandum of association:
It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and
Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit
percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company.
9. Certification of incorporation:
It is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and Firms) include
member details.
Note:
1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year.
Documents required for Import:
1. Trade License:
This license is used for business permission. It is issued by City Corporation or
Poroshova.
8. Memorandum of association:
It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and
Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit
percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company.
9. Certification of incorporation:
It is issued by RJSC (Registered Joint Stock Company) include member details.
Note:
1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year.
Different types of Payment methods in Garments Trade:
b) Conditional T/T: Buyer will pay advance but can not money without
showing documents.
5. Western Union:
This union is used for very small quantity of the garments. For example: 300pcs
of garments.
2. Packing List:
This is a document that indicates the contents of each individual carton/
package in the container. The packing list includes the cubic measurement
of the cartons/package, the weight, the number of cartons/packages, the
breakdown of the goods by size/color/quantity. Thisdocument is prepared
by the seller or the ship owner, and the buyer can specify which information
should be included.
➢ Woven Garments
➢ Knit Garments &
➢ Heavy Knit Garments
Woven Garments:
1. Shirt:
Men top garments. Shirt is of two types-
a) Basic/Formal/Dress/Official shirt
b) Casual/Pilot shirt
5. Skirt:
Ladies bottom garments.
6. Blouse:
Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies shirt or ladies fotua.
Fig:Three quarter
7. Dress:
Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies kamiz.
It is another type of jacket but in has a hairy look in the collar part.
14. Vest/over coat/waist coat:
Sleeveless coat with button at front that is basically used as dress.
e.g. Mujib coat.
17. Overall:
Fig: Vest
One type of sleeveless work wear that covers full body.
Fig: Cap
Knit or Light Knit Garments:
1. T-Shirt:
Top garments that must not contain placket. It may contain half collar or not.
Collar of T-Shirt is made by circular rib machine. Generally single jersey fabric
of GSM 120-220 is used to make T-Shirt.
2. Polo Shirt:
Top garments that must have placket and collar. The collar of Polo Shirt is made
by flat bed knitting machine. Double jersey fabrics are used to make Polo Shirt.
Fig: T-shirt
Fig: Polo-shirt
3. Tank Top:
Sleeveless top garments for men containing strap. E.g. Santo ganji.
4. Sweat Shirt:
Long sleeve T-Shirt made by fleece fabric. Fig: Santo ganji
5. Swim wear:
Clothing specially made for swimming purposes. These garments are skin tight,
made of hydrophobic fibre and water proof.
6. Sports Wear:
Garments used in any type of sports.
7. Socks:
An item of clothing that is worn on feet.
9. Knit dress
10. Knit Pajamas:
Night dress- both top & bottom.
12. Briefs:
Men’s under wear (short).
13. Lingerie:
Only ladies under garments.
14. Singlet:
Sleeveless ladies top garments with strap.
15. Tights/Hose/Leggings:
Tight fit ladies garments. Used in Bottom.
16. Gloves:
Gloves have individual finger coverings, offering more
mobility but less overall warmth than mittens.
Fig: Gloves
17. Mitten:
A covering for the hand that encases the thumb
separately and the four fingers together.
25
Heavy Knit or Sweater:
1. Pullover:
Long sleeve sweater without button at front.
2. Slipover:
Sleeveless sweater without button at front.
3. Vest/Waist Coat/Over Coat:
Sleeveless sweater with button at front.
4. Cardigan:
Long sleeve sweater with button at front.
5. Zip-up:
Long sleeve sweater with zipper at front.
6. Half-zip:
Long sleeve sweater with half-zipper at front.
26
Types of Fleece:
Generally there are two types of fleece.
i. Terry fleece:
Here one side single jersey and other side is brushed.
ii. Polar fleece:
Here both sides are brushed.
Types of Stripe:
Generally there are two types of stripe.
1. Feeder Stripe:
If the repeat length of the stripe is below 4cm then it is called feeder stripe.
2. Engineering Stripe:
If the repeat length of the stripe is above 4cm then it is called engineering stripe.
Outer Wear:
Garments that protection from bad weather are called outer wear.
e.g. Rain Coat, Trench Coat, Gilet, Wind Breaker.
27
Garments Accessories/Trims
Without fabric all materials used in garments is called accessories or
Trimmings. It includes thread, button, interlining, zipper, label etc.
Accessories can be divided into 2 groups-
✓ Sewing accessories
✓ Finishing accessories
Sewing accessories:
1. Sewing thread:
The physical appearance and quality of seam is directly related to sewingthread.
It is one of the main elements to production garment. Sewing thread play an
important factor to join two parts of fabric. Sewing threads are produced from
ply of yarn which is used for sewing.
2. Interlining:
Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layersof
fabrics in the garments. It is joined by sewing and heating. The main purpose of
these fabrics is used to hold up, support, control area of garments and to keep real
shape. Interlining fabric is made of cotton, nylon, polyester, viscose and wool are
used in interlining. It can be used canvas, flannel and non-woven fabrics.
Generally two types of interlining are used in garment processing which are
fusible interlining and non-fusible interlining.
Uses: Interlining is normally used in cuffs, collar, waist band, belt loop & the
front part of jacket & coats.
3. Lining:
Lining is a piece of fabric which is used to cover the inner surfacesof
garments especially when inner face employs different materials from the outer
surface. It is joined by sewing. The main purpose of these fabrics is usedto feel
comfort and to prevent wear on a side. Generally smooth and lustrous fabrics
made of silk or cotton is used in lining. It can be used lustrous wool alpaca fabric
or silk filling.
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4. Label:
A label is a part of garments which indicates various instructions about garments.
Label is attached with garments by sewing. It is 2 types- woven label and printed
label. Normally 3 types of labels are used in apparel industry-
✓ Main label: It contains brand name or trade name, country name of buyer
which is registered by the buyer e.g. Levi’s, Polo, Adidas, GAP, Lewis
Philippe, etc.
✓ Size label: It indicates the size of the garment i.e. S, M, L, XL, XXL, or
collar length of shirt 15, 16, 17, 18, etc.
✓ Care label: It contains fabric composition and care instructions and also
the name of the country or origin.
5. Zipper:
This is one kind of trimming which is used open and close of two parts of
garments. But it’s also used for decorative purpose.
✓ It has mainly 4 parts- stopper, slider, tape and teeth.
✓ Zipper length is measured from stopper to stopper.
✓ Tape is normally made of nylon or polyester to avoid shrinkage.
✓ Zipper teeth are normally made of metal, aluminum, black oxidized,
molded plastic.
Types of Zipper:
✓ Metal zipper (golden brass, antique brass,
antique silver, gunmetal, silver etc.)
✓ Aluminum zipper
✓ Black Oxidized zipper
✓ Molded Plastic zipper
Types of Zippers based on Functionality:
7. Twill tap:
Herringbone type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt, Cargo pant etc.
8. Canvas tap:
Plain weave type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt etc.
9. Shoulder pad:
Shoulder pads are shaped pad which is used at the shoulder areas of a garment
to give a raised shape or an extended shoulder line to the finished garment. It is
made from foam. Normally used in blazer and jacket.
Types of Button:
According to number of holes button can be classified as- 17.8mm
• 2 hole button &
• 4 hole button
Ligne no:
It is the measuring unit of the button. It indicates the diameter of button. If
diameter increases, ligne no also increases.
Where,
1 Ligne = 0.025inch or 0.635 mm
Uses: Normally used in kids wear, jacket, cargo pants, medical textiles, shoes,
belts, bags etc.
4. Buckle:
Metal buckle used in waist band of trench coat.
5. Patch:
To attach back side of waist belt of jeans which contain brand name. Made of
leather or rexgine. It is used for decorative purpose.
9. Collar Stand:
Generally made of plastic or paper to keep the shape of the collar.
10. Neck Board:
Generally found at the back & below the collar of a shirt. Made of paper or
plastic.
11. Back Board/Card Board:
Backboard is a hardboard/hard paper is placed inside shirt for keeping its shape
unchanged after packing.
12. Clip:
A clip is a device which holds the fold portion of the garment together by means
of pressure.
Fig: Stopper
16. Poly Bag:
A poly bag is a plastic bag used for packing garments. The garment is first folded
as per direction of the order sheet then is packed. There are two types of poly bag
used in garments packing; one is single poly bag in that a single garment is packed
and the other is blister poly bag in that more than one garment are packed. For
packing the garments into blister poly bag, packing instructions must be followed.
17. Carton:
It is used in packing garments ready for shipment. Carton box is made by using
ply board. The dimensions of the cartons depend on buyer instructions and the
number of pieces of garments in each carton is given in the order sheet.
Sometimes a carton is also called a box. Number of ply indicates the quality of
a carton. Generally 3, 5, 7, 9 ply cartons are available.
35
18. Hook & Eye:
Hooks and eyes are small but comparatively strong fasteners which contains 4
parts. Though they are mostly applied at single point of a garment opening, such
as waistband or neckline, they can also be used to fasten an entire opening.
Normally used in formal pants, kids garments etc.
Fig: Hook & eye Fig: Price tag Fig: Hang tag
21. Tag pin: Help to hang the price ticket & others tag.
22. Hanger:
Hanger is used for hanging the garments. It is important for hang shirt, coat and
also different kinds of garments.
36
23. Size clip or Sizer:
Sizer is a part of hanger which contains garments size.
25. Belt:
D-
ring
Fig: Size clip Fig: Size strip Fig: Belt
27. Photo-in-lay:
Photo-in-lay is used for packing Santo ganji.
37
What is Motif?
The special component which is attached outside of the garment for decorative
purpose is called motif. Generally motif contains a Company Name, Brand Name,
Trade Mark and some kinds of symbols of garments.
What is Applique?
Additional fabric added in the face side of the garments for increasing the beauty
of the dress which is called applique. It is made by Laser cutting machine and
attached by sewing in embroidery section.
Fig: Applique
38
Stitch and Seam:
Stitch:
Stitch is a loop or unit in seam line which is produced by sewing thread from a
sewing machine.
Seam:
Seam is a joint where two or more plies of fabric are held together.
Stitch
Sewing: Seam
The process of joining of fabric by the use of needle and sewing thread is called
sewing.
Difference between yarn and thread:
Yarn is produced from spinning which is used for producing fabric and thread is
produced from ply of yarn which is used for sewing.
Thread is used in sewing because of its-
• More strength
• More durability
• More abrasion resistant etc.
Methods of Stitch Formation:
One loop of one thread One loop of one thread One thread passes over
passes through another passes through another another thread. Here, two
loop of another thread. loop of the same thread. threads are used.
Here, two threads are Here, one thread is used.
used.
39
Types of Stitch:
Stitch types are generally classified in six categories. These are -
Sub-Classes:
a). 101:
Feature:
Uses temporary purposes which can easily pick up.
40
2. Stitch Class-200 (Hand stitch):
Features:
• Hand stitch is passed completely from one side to the other.
• Hand stitch is originally made by hand but now can be formed by sewing
machine.
• The appearance of face and back are same.
Uses:
• Hand stitch is used for decorative purposes.
• It is specially used in collar, pocket, front placket, shoulder etc.
Sub-Classes:
a) 202(Hand Stitch): This type of stitch is formed by hand.
b) 209: This type of stitch is formed by “Pique Stitch Machine’’. Fig. Hand stitch
Uses: Top stitch lapel of blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc.
Saddle stitch:
A special type of stitch which is formed by pique stitch machine using thick
thread. It is used in Cowboy jeans.
Features:
• This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads one set is called
needle thread and another set is called looper thread.
• Seam security extremely high.
• Face and back has same appearance.
• The stitch is difficult to pick up.
Disadvantages:
• Very poor elasticity.
• Bobbin thread required frequently changing.
Fig. Lock stitch
41
Sub-Classes:
Uses: All kind of top stitching in garments. Bobbin thread (Lower part)
b) 304(Zig-zag stitch):
Needle Thread
Bobbin Thread
Disadvantages:
• Seam security is not strong.
Sub-Classes:
Bottom Side
42
b) 406: 2Needle + 1Looper
Upper Side
Fabric
Bottom Side
Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt and Polo-shirt.
c) 407: 3Needle + 1Looper
Upper Side
Fabric
Bottom Side
Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt and Polo-shirt, elastic band of briefs.
Hemming:
The process of sewing of an edge or border on a piece of cloth, especially a
finished edge, as for a garment or curtain, made by folding an edge under and
stitching it down. e.g. Bottom edge of a shirt.
5. Stitch Class-500 (Over lock stitch or over edge neatening):
Features:
• This type of stitch is used to prevent the fraying out of loose yarns of the
edge of fabric.
• It requires more than two threads.
• It is used for making knitted garments.
Uses: Only Uses: Edging Uses: Edging Uses: Edging & sewing. These stitches
for edging. and light and heavy are lightly extensible.
seaming. seaming.
Note:
503,504,514 are British Standard & 515 & 516 (Combination Stitch) are US
Standard.
43
6. Stitch Class-600 (Covering chain stitch):
Features:
• This type of stitch is formed by 4 sets of thread 2 sets thread is called needle
thread and another 2 sets are top and bottom covering threads or looper
threads.
• This stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid, elastic
etc.
Sub-Classes:
Fabric
Bottom Side
Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt, Polo-shirt and decorative purpose.
Fabric
Bottom Side
Uses:
Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt& Polo-shirt, elastic band of briefs and
decorative purpose.
44
Type of Seam:
Arrangement of fabric ends of the seam line is called seam type. They are
classified into following types-
1. Seam Class-1: Super imposed seam
2. Seam Class-2: Lapped seam
3. Seam Class-3: Bound seam
4. Seam Class-4: Flat seam
5. Seam Class-5: Decorative seam
6. Seam Class-6: Edge Neatening
7. Seam Class-7: Applied seam
8. Seam Class-8: Others seam
Features:
• Seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing
together.
• Most commonly used.
• The fabric ends are in same direction.
• This class seam can be sewn a variety of machine.
e.g. Lock stitch or over lock machine.
45
2. Seam Class-2 (Lapped seam):
Features:
• This type of seam is achieved with two or more pieces of fabric over
lapping each other.
• Two sewn ends of the fabric are in opposite direction.
• Mostly two needle chain stitch machine is used.
• Seam under this class is very strong.
Features:
• A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of
another piece of fabric.
• The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment.
• Sometime used as decorative purpose.
• There are 18 variations of bound seam.
Uses: Neckline of a T-shirt, Yoke joint in the shirt, waist band, underwear.
46
4. Seam Class-4 (Flat seam):
Features:
• Flat seam are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely
of their edges.
• Seam thickness is comparatively less.
• Zig-zag stitch may be produced.
• Edge should be cleaned before sewing to avoid tearing
• Lock stitch is used for form this seam type.
47
6. Seam Class-6 (Edge Neatening):
Features:
• Seam under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends
from out area cannot come out during use.
• It can be used extensively.
• It can be made by overlock machines.
Neatening:
The process of sewing with cutting edge of the fabric so that the slack yarn can
not be opened.
7. Seam Class-7 (Applied seam):
Features:
• These are sometimes called applied seam because they are mainly used to
a decorative material to an edge of seam such as lace, elastic.
48
Sewing Threads
Types of Sewing thread being used in the garments industry of Bangladesh:
1. Polyester Core spun Thread.
2. Spun Polyester Thread.
3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread.
4. Textured Polyester Thread.
5. Polyester Cotton Core spun Thread.
6. Trilobal Polyester Thread.
Staple polyester
Key Characteristics:
✓ Exceptionally strong.
✓ The continuous filament core (Having high tenacity) provides superior
strength while the staple polyester cover helps to protect the inner core
from damage due to needle heat.
✓ Its resistance to abrasion helps ensure long seam life in a wide variety of
materials.
✓ Fine threads can be used for delicate fabric without compromising on
strength, thereby avoiding problems like seam pucker.
Uses:
Mainly used in topstitching of shirts, blouses, trousers, sportswear, jeans
& work clothes.
49
2. Spun Polyester Thread:
Staple polyester fibres are spun into polyester yarn. Then two or more of spun
polyester yarns are twisted together to produce spun polyester thread.
e.g. Astra (Coats).
Key Characteristics:
✓ High tenacity of polyester ensures greater strength and thereby high
abrasion resistance.
✓ Very least amount of shrinkage (less than 1%) compared to cotton thread.
Uses:
Mainly for over edging. Also used for general seaming of shirts, trousers,
knitwear, jackets, blouses etc.
Key Characteristics:
✓ 100% cotton thread have relatively low strength and elongation compared
to those in synthetic thread, therefore they need relatively light sewing
tension and high stitch densities.
✓ Very high amount of shrinkage compared to synthetic thread.
✓ During sewing, cotton thread is not damaged at high temperature generated
by needle.
✓ 100% cotton thread is mercerized (treatment with caustic solution under
tension) to provide greater luster and higher strength.
Uses: Mainly used in sewing cotton garments that are to be post dyed.
50
4. Textured Polyester Thread:
Made from textured continuous polyester filament. (Note- texturing means
modification by applying crimp to the filament).
e.g. Gramax (Coats).
Key features:
✓ Provides high softness and comfort.
✓ High extensibility and seam strength enhance higher seam security.
Uses: Mainly used in “next to the skin” seams for high softness .e.g. underwear,
Swim wear, baby wear etc.
Also widely used in over locking and covering stitches for high extensibility
and seam security.
5. Polyester Cotton Core spun Thread:
Made of polyester filament in the core and staple cotton fibre which wraps
polyester filament. Two or three plies of this yarn are twisted together to make
thread. Cotton fiber
e.g. dual duty (Coats).
✓ This thread has been developed to improve the properties cotton and to
get the opportunities of both cotton and polyester fibre.
✓ Very low shrinkage, good strength and cotton core protects poly core
from needle heat and high ironing temperature.
51
6. Trilobal Polyester thread:
✓ Newly developed polyester fibre to improve the dullness of usual polyester
fibre.
✓ Trilobal poly is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen continuous fiber
thread. It has the bright appearance of rayon or silk. Triangular shaped
fibers reflect more light and give an attractive sparkle to textiles.
e.g. sylko(coats).
International:
• Coats.
• A&E (American & Efrad)
Local:
• Etafil
• Well thread
• Fabian.
52
Thread Count and Ticket Number:
Count:
Count is a numerical value which expresses the fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Higher the count, finer the yarn. Example- 30/3, 90/4 etc.
Ticket number:
Ticket number is a number which expresses the fineness or coarseness of
sewing thread. Higher ticket number, finer the sewing thread.
Example:
60/3, 90/5 means 60 & 90 are yarn count and 3 & 5 are no. of ply.
60/3 = 20 = 20 3 = 60 (Ticket no.) Here, Red color 3 is constant.
90/5 = 18 = 18 3 = 54 (Ticket no.)
Formula: Ne = 0.59 Nm
Where,
Ne = Cotton ticket number
Nm= Metric ticket number
Problem:
Cotton of a sewing thread is 60/3 Ne. What will be its metric ticket number?
Solution:
Ne ticket no. = 60/3
= 20 3
= 60
53
Garment Defects
1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric, mostly these are not caused by the
sewing lines. e.g. running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining
mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc.
Note: Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways
of attaching trims, packing etc.
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Typical Defects:
1. Fabric defects:
Fabric inspection method.
2. Workmanship defect:
a) Seam Puckering:
Refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering
causing an unacceptable seam appearance.
This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing,
improper thread tension, wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability
of the plies of fabric etc.
b) Shading Variations within different parts:
Arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering.
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i) Poor ironing:
If not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if
ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.
j) Misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished button hole, missing buttons, wrong
placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing
into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section.
56
Different types of sewing faults:
Sewing faults:
Sewing is a basic operation of garments manufacturing. Lots of problems occur
during sewing operation. Now I will discuss on various causes of sewing faults.
57
Application of Sewing Machines in Garments Manufacturing:
58
11. Eyelet hole Machine.
Stitch class-100
Uses: Men’s Jeans, Suits, Jackets, Coats button hole.
59
Some Garments Industrial Sewing Machine Figure:
60
Fig. Button Hole Machine Fig. Eyelet Button Hole Machine
Fig. Button Attaching Sewing Machine Fig. Snap & Shank Button Attaching Machine
61
Fig. Zig-zag Stitching Machine Fig. Pocket Sewer Machine
62
Parts of the Sewing Machine and Uses:
Bobbin: Holds the lower/bobbin thread. Bobbin Case: Holds the bobbin in the
machine and regulates the tension of the
bobbin thread.
Feed Dog
Needle
Presse
rfoot
63
Throat/Needle Plate: Covers the feed dog. Slide Plate: Covers the bobbin area
It is a semi-circular disc with a hole to allow while the machine is stitching. It can
the needle to pass through it. be removed or slid to the side while
loading the bobbin into the machine.
Hand Wheel
Reverse
Stitch
Lever
Presser Foot Lifter: Clutch Knob: Used to prevent the needle and
✓ Raises and lowers the presser foot. take-up lever from moving when winding the
✓ Always have the foot down when sewing.
bobbin.
Presse
rFoot
Lifter
Clutch Knob
64
Foot Feed/Pedal: Spool Pin: Holds the spool of thread.
Gives power to the machine electrically.
Spool Pin
Stitch
Width
Regulator
Stitch Length
Regulator
Thread
Tension
Control
Thread Guides: Needle Clamp Screw:
The parts that guide the thread from the Needle clamp screw holds the needle in
thread cone to the needle. They smooth its actual place.
the thread and protect it from abrasion.
Needl
e
Clamp
Screw
Construction of a Sewing Needle
Sewing Needle:
Needle is used to sew the fabric by thread. Different stitching is formed by the
needle. Needle is different is size which is expressed by Needle Number (Nm).
We know needle types also differ depending on its end use.
1. Butt:
Butt is top end of the needle which is inserted into the needle bar/clamp.
2. Shank:
The thicker part of the needle held by the needle clamp or the needle set screw.
Itsupports the needle as a whole by providing additional strength.
3. Shoulder:
Shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and the blade.
4. Blade:
It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. This part
isresponsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric.
5. Long groove:
There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. Long groove safe
thesewing thread from the abrasion of fabric with thread.
6. Short groove:
Short groove is the slot on the side of the needle towards the hook or looper.
Ithelps to make the loop of needle thread.
7. Eye:
The hole at the end of the needle. Thread is passed through the needle eye.
Itprevents the sewing thread form damage during sewing.
8. Scarf (Clearance):
Scarf or clearance cut is the portion across the whole faces of the needle just
abovethe eye. Its purpose is to enable a closer setting of the hook or looper to the
needle.
9. Point:
It provides the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according
toits nature and the desired stitch effect.
10. Tip:
It is the bottom point of a needle. It should be sharp for easy penetration
Pressing
Pressing is the finishing process of garments. Sometimes this is refers as
ironing.
Object of pressing:
1. To remove unwanted crease and crinkles from the garments.
2. To give shape particular parts of the garments.
e.g. front and back part of dress pants, front and back part of blazer.
3. To create permanent creases in the garments.
e.g. permanent pleat in the skirt, lapel of blazer.
Types of pressing:
1. No pressing: Here, pressing is not so necessary.
e.g. specially underwear, swimwear etc.
2. Minimum pressing: Here, pressing is done only by heat but no need
pressure.
e.g. sweater and night gowns.
3. Under pressing: Some parts of the garments are pressed after cutting and
before sewing.
e.g. front and back part of blazer, dress pants are ironed before sewing
etc.
4. Final pressing: This is general pressing to all garments after sewing.
e.g. jacket, trouser, skirt etc.
5. Permanent pressing: Some garments are pressed to create permanent
crease this is called permanent pressing.
e.g. permanent pleat in the skirt, lapel of blazer.
69
Packing into Carton
When garments are ready for shipment then garments must be packed into carton
according to the buyer requirement. Garments are packed into carton according
to the following methods-
1. Solid color solid size: Here, color of garments and size will be same when
packed into carton. The carton contains same color and same size.
Example: Color: Yellow
Size: S 10 pcs/carton
2. Solid color assorted size: Here, color of garments will be same but size of
garments will be different when packed into carton. The carton contains same
color and different size.
3. Assorted color solid size: Here, color of garments will be different but size of
garments will be same when packed into carton. The carton contains different
color and same size.
Example: Size: M
Ratio: 2 : 2 : 2 : 2 : 2
Color: W Y R G B 10 pcs/carton
4. Assorted color assorted size: Here, color of garments and size will be
different when packed into carton. The carton contains different color and
different size.
Example:
Basically, we will randomly select a sampling size quantity (based on the AQL
tables) to be inspected. After inspection according to the number of defects found
(critical, major, minor defects), we will advice to accept or to reject our shipment
from the chart of AQL.
The faults or defects which are found during inspection are mainly classified into
four categories:
1. Critical: Must be 100% accurate that means 0%.
2. Major: Normally 2.5%
3. Minor: Normally 4%
4. Slight: Normally 6.5%
Lot or Batch Size Sample Size Sample Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)
Code Letter Size 2.5% 4.0% 6.5%
Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
2-8 A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1
9-15 B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1
16-25 C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1
26-50 D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2
51-90 E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3
91-150 F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4
151-280 G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6
281-500 H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8
501-1200 J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11
1201-3200 K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15
3201-10000 L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22
10001-35000 M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22
350001-150000 N 500 16 18 23 25 23 25
150001-500000 O 800 18 20 25 28 25 27
500000 and over P 1250 20 22 28 30 28 30
Example:
Suppose you have been offered a shipment of 30,000 pieces for inspection. Select
the range from table, it is 10001-35000. Now from table you have to select
number of sample you are going to actually inspect. According the above table
you will select 315 pieces out of 30000 pieces. Now assume that you are
inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 315 pieces if you find 14 or less
than 14 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find 15 or more
than 15 defective pieces in 315 samples you will reject that shipment.
How to Read AQL table?
Lot or Batch size:
This means total how many pieces inspector is going to check or inspect. (i.e. if
you have been offered a shipment of 30,000 pieces order quantity, the batch size
of this shipment will fall under 10001-35000 pieces (Code - M).
Sample size:
It means that how many pieces will be picked up for inspection from the total
offered pieces (Batch).
Ac (Accepted):
The number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds up to that much
defective pieces the shipment will be accepted by buyer.
Re (Rejected):
On the other hand number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds that
much defective pieces or more than the listed number, the shipment will be
rejected (or asked to the manufacturer for 100% inspection and re-offer for final
inspection) by buyer.
Fabric (Which are used in garments)
Some fabric structure is given below:
Woven Fabric:
1. Poplin Weave:
• Poplin = 133 72
40 40
Higher EPI and PPI. Finer Count. Yarn count is more than 30.
Uses: Shirt, blouse, jackets, coats etc.
133 72
• Sheeting=
40 40
Equal EPI and PPI. Yarn count 20 – 30 Ne.
Uses: Mattress cover and bed sheets.
96 76
• Calico=
14 14
Yarn count 11 – 20 Ne.
Uses: Bed sheets, apron and light summer clothing.
72 48
• Canvas=
7 7
Yarn count 6 – 10 Ne.
Uses: Slip covers, shoe fabrics, boat covers etc.
110 76
• Taffeta=
70D 70
Made by polyester/ Nylon.
Uses: Lining and evening wear.
96 72
• Teslan=
70D 140D
It is also used for lining of blazer. Made by polyester/ nylon but
heavier than taffeta.
It is combination of plain and twill. Normally used for shirt and blouse. To
exemplify its included rib stop fabric which perform box effect.
If the repeat length of the stripe is below 4cm then it is called feeder stripe.
Engineering Stripe: If the repeat length of the stripe is above 4cm then it is called
engineering stripe.
Knit Fabric:
1. Single jersey: Two side of this fabric are different. Used for T-shirt, tank
top, polo–shirt etc. GSM ranges from 120-200.
2. Rib: Both sides are same. Used for ladies item, undergarments etc.
3. Interlock: Both sides are same. Used for ladies item, undergarments etc.
4. Pique fabric: It contains very small size pore in their construction.
Normally used in polo shirt.
5. Lacoste fabric: it also contains pore but bigger than pique. Normally
used in polo shirt.
6. Fleece fabric: In knit fabric fleece may be two types.
i. Terry fleece: Here one side single jersey and other side is brushed.
ii. Polar fleece: Here both sides are brushed.
Fig: T-shirt
Fig: Polo-shirt
Machine Lay-out of Garment:
4. Kansai Special:
• Box pleat or multi-needle sewing, bottom & cuff with elastic in jacket.
4. Feed of the arm/ back tape m/c (2N+2L) Double stitch class- 406.
• For joining tape inside neck or shoulder or outside neck.
05 Placket matching with front Placket matching with front is done on the
table.
09 Matching (Front & Back Part) Matching (Front & Back Part) is done on the
table.
26 Inspection all back process Inspection all back process is done on the
table.
Care Label:
Care label is a component or trimming of garment which contains some
internationally recognized symbols that indicate the care instructions of the
garment. These symbols are called care label codes. Care label codes are used for
perfect caring of garments.
History:
The care label was introduced in Europe about 1950. It’s a voluntary service so it
was not regulated by any authority. It originated in The Netherlands and then
spread to France and the other European countries as a voluntary service to the
consumers offered by the textile and apparel industry. The care labeling code was
protected by an international trademark, to control the correct application. The
ownership of this international trademark belongs GINETEX, this International
Association for Textile Care Labeling, has developed symbolic care labeling
system in 1975.
International Standard:
ISO 3758 1991 provides a code of reference for the use of these symbols. The
GINETEX care labeling system consists of five basic symbols for washing,
bleaching, ironing, drying, dry cleaning and an extra symbol for wring. The
symbols and their descriptions are shown in the following.
1. Washing Symbols:
Symbol Care Instructions Meaning of Symbols
Machine Wash Garment can be washed using hot water,
(normal) detergent, agitation, and any machine
designed for garments washing.
Machine Wash Maximum temperature 30°C or 85°F
(cold) Rinsing normal
Spinning reduced
Machine Wash Maximum temperature 40°C or 100°F
(warm) Rinsing normal
Spinning normal
Machine Wash Maximum temperature 50°C or 120°F
(hot) Rinsing normal
Spinning normal
Machine Wash Maximum temperature 60°C or 140°F
(hot) Rinsing normal
Spinning normal
Machine Wash Maximum temperature 70°C or 160°F
(hot) Rinsing normal
Spinning normal
Machine Wash Maximum temperature 95°C or 200°F
(hot) Rinsing normal
Spinning normal
Machine Wash Garment is machine washed only on the
(permanent press) setting designed to preserve permanent
press with cold rinse prior to reduced spin.
Machine Wash Garment is machine washed only on the
(gentle or delicate) setting designed for gentle agitation and
reduced time for delicate items.
Hand Wash Garment is washed through the use of
water, detergent and hand manipulation.
3. Drying Symbols:
Symbol Care Instructions Meaning of Symbols
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at the hottest
(normal) available temperature setting.
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at a low heat setting.
(normal , low
heat)
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at a medium heat
(normal , medium setting.
heat)
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at a high heat
(normal , high setting.
heat)
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at no heat or air only
(normal , no heat) setting.
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at the permanent
(permanent press) press setting.
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at the gentle setting.
(gentle)
Do not tumble dry Machine dryer is not used. Usually
accompanied by an alternate drying method
symbol.
Do not dry Machine dryer is not used. Usually
accompanied by an alternate drying method
symbol.
Line dry Hang wet garment from bar, in or out doors.
We use this in our country, it means hanging
our dresses in rooftop for drying.
Drip dry Hang dripping wet garment from bar, in or
out doors, without hand shaping or
smoothing.
Dry flat Lay out horizontally for drying.
4. Ironing Symbols:
Symbol Care Instructions Meaning of Symbols
Iron in any Ironing is required and can be performed at
temperature any available temperature with or without
(steam or dry) steam.
Iron (low) Regular ironing, steam or dry, is performed
at low setting (110°C, 230°F).
Iron (medium) Regular ironing, steam or dry, is performed
at medium setting (150°C, 300°F).
Iron (high) Regular ironing, steam or dry, is performed
at high setting (200°C, 390°F).
Do not steam Steam ironing will harm garment, but
regular dry ironing at indicated temperature
setting is acceptable.
Do not iron Ironing is not allowed. Garment can’t be
smoothed or finished with an iron.
5. Dry Cleaning Symbols:
Symbol Care Instructions Meaning of Symbols
Dry clean Dry cleaning in any solvent, any cycle any
moisture, any heat.
Dry clean Dry cleaning in any solvent. Usually used
(any solvent) with other restrictions on proper dry
cleaning procedure.
Dry clean Any dry cleaning solvent except
(any solvent, trichloroethylene can be safely used.
except Usually para-chloro-ethylene, white spirit
trichloroethylene) of solvent-113 is used.
Dry clean Dry cleaning is done using only petroleum
(petroleum solvent ) solvent. Usually used with other restrictions.
White spirit of solvent-113 is used.
Dry clean Can be used with A, P, F solvent
(reduced moisture) restriction.
Dry clean Can be used with A, P, F solvent
(short cycle) restriction.
Dry clean Can be used with A, P, F solvent
(no steam) restriction.
Dry clean Can be used with A, P, F solvent
(low heat) restriction.
Do not dry clean Dry cleaning is not allowed.
6. Wring Symbols:
Symbol Care Instructions Meaning of Symbols
Do not wring Wring is not allowed.
Notes:
1. System of dots indicating that temperature range is same for all
procedures.
2. If there is no bleaching symbol mentioned, it means any type of bleach is
allowed.
3. GINETEX states that "milder forms of treatment and lower temperatures
than those indicated on the label are always permitted."
4. A cross on any of the symbol means that the treatment shall not be used
and a bar under the symbols indicates milder treatment is required.
Some Important Terms:
Penton Number:
Penton Number is the code of color which is used for shade matching. Now-a-
days pantone is used in all industries for DTM (dye to match). In the pantone card
there are 6 digit numbers for each color. Those colors are help to minimize the
garments shade variation problem.
DTM (Dye to Match):
Accessories with fabric color are same called DTM.
For example-
✓ Sewing thread DTM: Fabric color and sewing thread color will be same.
✓ Button DTM: Fabric color and button color will be same.
Lab dip:
Develop any color in lab according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer
for approval. Metal button is not applicable for lap dip.
Yarn dip:
Develop yarn color in lab according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer
for approval. Yarn dip is done before yarn dyeing.
Strike off:
Develop print in lab according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer for
approval.
Art work:
Develop embroidery in lab according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer
for approval.
Hand Loom:
Develop repeat size of stripe and check fabric in lab by a small hand loom
according to buyer requirement and sent to the buyer for approval.
Swatch:
A sample of cloth or a small piece of cloth which indicate color & type of the
cloth.
Swatch card:
Swatch card is a simple and affordable way to present our fabric choices to our
customers. Fabrics are attached in the swatch cards.
Trim card:
A trim card is used to show approved trims by attaching all garment trims on the
trim card. In the production floor, supervisors used to follow the trim card as a
guide for identifying the right trims.
Compliance:
Compliance means comply something that is yield to the wishes another. The
main aim of compliance is to ensuring the all labour rights and facilities according
to the Buyer code of conduct. These include-
• Safety
• Healthy environment
• Working time
• Over time
• Salary & Wages
• Facilities (Dining, Child care, Toilet, Doctor)
• Compliant
• Semi Compliant &
• Non-Compliant
ISO:
International Organization for Standardization is the world’s developer and
publisher of international standards.
• ISO is a network of the national standards institutes of 164 countries, with
a central secretarial in GENEVA, Switzerland that coordinates the system.
• ISO is a non-governmental organization that forms a bridge between the
public and private sectors. It was established in 1947.
Purpose of ISO:
• Harmonization of standards.
• To facilitate the world trade and transfer of technology.
Structure of ISO:
ISO
Benefits to customers:
• Improve quality and service.
• Delivery on time.
• Right first time attitude.
• Fewer returned products and complaints
• Independent and demonstrates commitment to quality.
About BEPZA
In order to stimulate rapid economic growth of the country, particularly through
industrialization, the government has adopted an 'Open Door Policy' to attract
foreign investment to Bangladesh. The Bangladesh Export Processing Zones
Authority (BEPZA) is the official organ of the government to promote, attract
and facilitate foreign investment in the Export Processing Zones (EPZs). Besides,
BEPZA as the competent Authority performs inspection & supervision of the
compliances of the enterprises related to social & environmental issues, safety &
security at work place in order to maintain harmonious labour- management &
industrial relations in EPZs. The primary objective of an EPZ is to provide special
areas where potential investors would find a congenial investment climate free
from cumbersome procedures.
Objective of BEPZA:
• Boost up Foreign and Local Investment
• Accelerate Volume of Export
• Create Job Opportunity
• Poverty Alleviation
• Transfer of Technology and Skill Development
• Development of Backward and Forward Linkage Industries
• Promote Accessories and Supportive Service Enterprises
About EPZ
An export processing zone (EPZ) is defined as a territorial or economic enclave
in which goods may be imported and manufactured and reshipped with a
reduction in duties / and/or minimal intervention by custom officials (World Bank
1999).
EPZ Provides:
• Plots/factory BLDG in custom bonded area
• Infrastructural facilities
• Administrative facilities
• Fiscal & non-fiscal incentives
• EPZ attracts : foreign & local investment
Type:
• A - 100% foreign ownership 205 (58%)
• B - joint venture 49 (14%)
• C - 100% local venture 98 (28%)
Website:
http://bepza.gov.bd/
Common Abbreviations for Textile and Garments Technology