patterns

Sammy Sunsuit
 The Sammy Sunsuit is a vintage inspired versatile baby romper; perfect for summer worn on its own, or
layered up with tights and shirts for the colder months.

The romper is constructed in one piece casting on at the back edge working down, shaping for the leg
openings and continuing up the front finishing with two shoulder straps. The main body is worked in stocking
stitch with ribbing details. The leg openings are finished afterwards in reverse stocking stitch.

Size / Measurements Abbreviations

In the pattern, the first size is given, following sizes are within brackets

Size in months 3m 6m 12 m k: Knit

kfb: Knit into the front (as normal) and
Based on 40.5 cm 43 cm 45.5 cm then again into the back of the same
approx. chest 18ʺ
measurements
16ʺ 17ʺ stitch, creating two stitches out of
one.
Finished k2tog: Knit two stitches together.
measurements p: Purl
pfb: Purl into the front (as normal) and
Chest 20.5 cm 22.5 cm 24 cm
- seam to seam 8ʺ 9ʺ 9 ½ʺ then again into the back of the same
below ribbing stitch, creating two stitches out of
Hips 23 cm 25 cm 27 cm one.
-seam to seam at 9ʺ 10ʺ 10 ½ʺ
widest point p2tog: Purl two stitches together.
Length 31.5 cm 35 cm 38 cm rs: Right side – the front of work.
- crotch to top of 12 ½ʺ 14ʺ 15ʺ skpo: Slip one stitch knitwise, knit the next
front bib
stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the
Yarn worked stitch.
50 gram ball 2 2 2 stocking stitch: Row 1 (rs): knit. Row 2 (ws): purl.
metres 170 190 210
yards 186 208 230 approx. wrap and turn: A row is worked to a certain number
of stitches before being turned and
Supplies the same stitches worked back
across. For a neat finish, before
Yarn weight: DK (see above chart for yardage) turning wrap the next stitch. There
Suggested yarn: Rowan Summerlite DK are a number of different ‘wrap and
1 pair 4 mm / US 6 needles turn’ techniques, please use the one
1 pair 3.5 mm / US 4 needles most comfortable for you.
Darning needle ws: Wrong side – the back of the work.
Stitch holder yo: Yarn over – bring the yarn forwards
Lockable stitch markers under the right needle, then take it
2 buttons approx. 1.5 cm / ½ʺ over the needle to the back to create
a new loop (stitch) on the needle.
Work the next stitch on the left
Tension needle as normal.
1x1 rib: Even stitch count – All rows: (k1 p1)
Using 4 mm / US 6 needles in stocking stitch – to end.
22 stitches & 28 rows over 10 cm x 10 cm. Odd stitch count – Row 1: k1, (p1, k1)
Stocking stitch – Row 1 (rs): knit. Row 2 (ws): purl. to end. Row 2: p1, (k1, p1) to end.

© PIPPY EVE 2018 SAMMY SUNSUIT PAGE 2

 Instructions

ROMPER – worked in one piece, casting on at the top of the back, working down the back, decreasing for
back leg openings, increasing for front leg openings, up the front body, finishing with shaping for bib
and straps.

Back waistband ribbing

Using 4 mm / US 6 needles cast on 47 [51, 55] stitches.
Work back waistband in 1x1 ribbing, as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k1, (p1, k1) to end.
Row 2 (ws): p1, (k1, p1) to end.
Repeat Rows 1-2, 3 [3, 3] more times; 8 rows in total.

Short rows for back shaping

Now, working in stocking stitch, work short rows as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k30 [32, 34], wrap and turn.
Row 2: p13, wrap and turn.
Row 3: k19, wrap and turn. When working wrap and turn, depending on your
Row 4: p25, wrap and turn. chosen technique, make sure you are picking up
Row 5: k31, wrap and turn. and working the wrap with its stitch as you work
Row 6: p37, wrap and turn. back across the rows.
Row 7: knit to end.
Row 8: purl to end.

You have 47 [51, 55] stitches on your needle.

Back of the romper

Work without shaping for 8 [12, 14] rows.

You have 47 [51, 55] stitches on your needle.

Increases for hip shaping

th
Increase by 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 8 row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1.
Rows 2-8: work in stocking stitch.
Repeat Rows 1-8, 2 [2, 2] more times until there are 53 [57, 61] stitches on your needle.
Place a lockable stitch marker in the first and last stitch on your needle. This will help when it comes to
picking up stitches for leg borders later on.

You now have 53 [57, 61] stitches on your needle.

Decreases for back leg openings

Decrease by 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k2tog, knit to last two stitches, k2tog.
Row 2: purl.
Repeat Rows 1-2, 5 [5, 6] more times until you have 41 [45, 47] stitches on your needle, ending with a ws
row.

Now decrease by 1 stitch at each end of every row as follows:

Row 1 (rs): k2tog, knit to last two stitches. k2tog.
Row 2: p2tog, purl to last two stitches, p2tog.
Repeat Rows 1-2, 5 [6, 6] more times until there are 17 [17, 19] stitches on your needle, ending with a ws
row.

© PIPPY EVE 2018 SAMMY SUNSUIT PAGE 3

 Crotch
Work without shaping for 8 rows.

You have 17 [17, 19] stitches on your needle.

Increases for front leg openings

Increase by 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): kfb, knit to the last 2 stitches, kfb, k1.
Row 2: purl.
Repeat Rows 1-2, 2 [3, 4] more times until there are 23 [25, 29] stitches on your needle, ending with a ws
row.

Now increase by 1 stitch at each end of every row as follows:

Row 1 (rs); kfb, knit to the last 2 stitches, kfb, k1.
Row 2: pfb, purl to the last 2 stitches, pfb, p1.
Repeat Rows 1-2, 2 [2, 2] more times until you have 35 [37, 41] stitches on your needle, ending with a ws
row.

Using cable cast-on method, cast on new stitches at the beginning of the next two rows, as follows:
Row 1 (rs): cast on 9 [10, 10] stitches, you now have 44 [47, 51] stitches on your left needle, knit across all
stitches.
Row 2: cast on 9 [10, 10] stitches, you now have 53 [57, 61] stitches on your left needle, purl across all
stitches.
Place a lockable stitch marker in the first and last stitch on your needle. This will help when it comes to
picking up stitches for leg borders later on.

You now have 53 [57, 61] stitches on your needle

Front of the romper

Work without shaping for 8 rows.

Decreases for waist shaping

th
Decrease by 1 stitch at each end of the next and following 8 rows as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog.
Rows 2-8: work in stocking stitch.
Repeat Rows 1-8, 2 [2, 2] more times until there are 47 [51, 55] stitches on your needle.

You now have 47 [51, 55] stitches on your needle.

Romper front
Work without shaping for 2 [6, 8] rows.

You have 47 [51, 55] stitches on your needle.

Front waistband ribbing

Work a 9-stitch 1x1 rib edging at each end of your work as follows:
Row 1 (rs): p1, (k1, p1) 4 times, knit to the last 9 stitches, p1, (k1, p1) 4 times.
Row 2: k1, (p1, k1) 4 times, purl to the last 9 stitches, k1, (p1, k1) 4 times.
Repeat Rows 1-2, 3 [3, 3] more times ending with a ws row.
Place a lockable stitch marker in the first and last stitch on your needle. These ribbed edges will match up
with the back waistband when sewing the side seams later on.

© PIPPY EVE 2018 SAMMY SUNSUIT PAGE 4

 Decreases for underarm shaping
Keep working the 1x1 rib edging, and cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows as follows:
Row 1 (rs): cast off 3 stitches in rib, p1, (k1, p1) 2 times, knit to last 9 stitches, p1, (k1, p1) 4 times.
Row 2: cast off 3 stitches in rib, k1, (p1, k1) 2 times, purl to last 6 stitches, (k1, p1) 3 times.

You now have 41 [45, 49] stitches on your needle.

Decreases for front bib shaping

Continuing working a 6-stitch 1x1 rib edging, decrease by 1 stitch on the inside of the ribbing at each end
th
of the next and following 4 row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): (k1, p1) 3 times, skpo, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 times.
Row 2: (p1, k1) 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, (k1, p1) 3 times.
Row 3: (k1, p1) 3 times, knit to last 6 stitches, (p1, k1) 3 times.
Row 4: (p1, k1) 3 times, purl to last 6 stitches, (k1, p1) 3 times.
You now have 39 [43, 47] stitches on your needle.

Repeat Rows 1-4, 3 [4, 5] more times until there are 33 [35, 37] stitches on your needle.

Top rib border

st
Work 4 rows of 1x1 rib, decreasing 2 stitches as above on the 1 row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): (k1, p1) 3 times, skpo, p1, (k1, p1) to last 8 stitches, k2tog, (p1, k1) 3 times.
Row 2: p1, (k1, p1) to end.
Row 3: k1, (p1, k1) to end.
Row 4: p1, (k1, p1) to end.
You now have 31 [33, 35] stitches on your needle.

Straps
Make 2 7-stitch straps as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k1, (p1, k1) 3 times, slip these 7 stitches onto a stitch holder, cast off 17 [19, 21] stitches in rib,
(p1, k1) 3 times.
You now have 7 stitches on your needle and 7 stitches on your stitch holder.
Remember when casting off a specific number of stitches an extra stitch needs to be worked,
consequently after casting off there will be one worked stitch remaining on your right needle.

Continue working the 7 stitches on your needle as follows:

Row 1 (ws): p1, (k1, p1) 3 times.
Row 2: k1, (p1, k1) 3 times.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until the strap measures 20 [22, 23] cm / 8 [8 ½, 9]ʺ, ending with a ws row.

Make eyelet button hole as follows:

Row 1 (rs): k1, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1.
Row 2: p1, (k1, p1) 3 times.
Row 3: k1, (p1, k1) 3 times.
Row 4: p1, (k1, p1) 3 times.
Row 5: k1, (p1, k1) 3 times.
Row 6: p1, (k1, p1) 3 times.
Row 5: cast off 7 stitches in rib. Break off yarn.

Slip the 7 stitches off the stitch holder onto your needle and rejoin yarn making sure the next row to be
worked is the wrong side.
Work as the previous strap.

© PIPPY EVE 2018 SAMMY SUNSUIT PAGE 5

 FINISHING

Reverse stocking stitch leg borders – same for both legs

The leg borders run from front side-seam to back side-seam where you placed the stitch markers at the
beginning and end of leg shaping. Identify the border for the right leg (as worn), you will work this from
the front stitch marker to the back stitch marker.
With right side facing towards you, using 3.5 mm / US 4 needles, pick up and knit 52 [56, 60] stitches
evenly along this edge.

Work 4 rows in reverse stocking stitch as follows:

Row 1 (ws): knit.
Rows 2: purl.
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: purl.
Row 5: cast off all stitches.

Repeat for the left leg border, working the picked up stitches from the back stitch marker to the front
stitch marker.

Side seams & buttons

Line up the side seams by matching the stitch markers on the front with the cast on edge at the back. Use
mattress stitch to sew both side seams.
Sew two buttons onto the back of the romper on the waist band, each approx. 6 [6, 7] cm /
2 ½ [2 ½, 3]ʺ in from the side seams.
Weave in all loose ends.

Pressing
Press the finished romper in accordance with the instructions on the ball band. If pressing instructions
are not given my preferred method is to lay the romper out flat making sure the seams are flat and then
cover the knitted piece with a damp white cloth and leave to dry away from direct heat.

Congratulations! You have finished your Sammy Sunsuit.

© PIPPY EVE 2018 SAMMY SUNSUIT PAGE 6

 A little bit about pippy eve

I am Samantha the knitwear designer behind pippy eve patterns. I live in Northamptonshire, England
with my husband, three children and an over-excitable cocker spaniel called Bertie.

Thank you for choosing to make the Sammy Sunsuit.

Here are some additional notes on the pattern….

Pattern use

pippy eve knitting patterns including the Sammy Sunsuit are purchased for personal use only. This
pattern may not be copied, shared or reproduced in any format.

Sharing your makes

I am delighted you have decided to make one of my designs and I would love to see your creations.

I can be found hanging out on Instagram @pippy_eve so feel free to tag me in your pictures.
Please have a look at our #pippyeve hashtag for knitting inspiration.

Contact

If you need any assistance, advice or just fancy a chat! please send me an email at:
hello@pippyeve.com

with love,
Samantha xx

© PIPPY EVE 2018 SAMMY SUNSUIT PAGE 7