People involved: Roles and Responsibilities

Cutting Checker Responsible for doing spreading ,cutting and bundling inspection of cut parts Responsible for checking cutting and generating Cutting inspection reports for the same. Responsible for generating a summary of daily cutting inspection report. Responsible for submitting the CIRs along with summary of the daily cutting inspection report to the respective QA head on daily basis. Responsible for ensuring that any problem relating to spreading ,cutting and bundling is immediately brought to the notice of the quality assurance head so that the required action can be taken immediately.

Inline Checker Responsible for doing inline inspections on all operations /Operators in a day. Responsible for generating all reports relating to inline inspection. Responsible for ensuring that during inline inspection standard quality specifications for each operations are being met at all operations points.also responsible for communication any quality discrepancy during inline inspection to the quality assurance head and bringing the same to the immediate notice of the line supervisor.

End of line checker Responsible for doing final inspection on all end of line sewn garments. Responsible for generating all reports relating to final inspection. Responsible for ensuring those standard quality specifications are met for all sewn garments .also responsible for communications any quality discrepancy during final inspection to the QA head and bringing the same to the immediate notice of the line inchargefor taking corrective action.

Cutting room inspections *Standard operating procedures for checking spreading

Before spreading care should be taken to ensure that fabric has been relaxed .the minimum relaxation time should be at least 10-12 hrs. Before spreading brown paper should be kept at bottom .preferably the brown paper should be attached to the cutting table with some adhesive so that it does not shift during cutting. Care should be taken to ensure that the layer height is not more than 3 in case of plain and solid fabric. In the case of stripes the layer height should not exceed 2.5. Care should be taken to ensure that the grain line of spread is straight and not an angle. This is called bowing in fabric .the bowing which can be adjusted in cutting should be allowed to be cut attention has to be given to the cutting so that the grain line in the cut part is straight. In the case of stripes special care has to be taken to ensure that there is no bowing in the fabric . Spreading should always be done keeping the nape of the fabric in mind .Nape of fabric is critical factor in spreading. In the case of Fine/sheer fabric .brown paper should also be put in between the layer during spreading.

Ideal Lay height for cutting

Fabric weight Woven Knits

Heavy Weight 4-5" Med Weight Light Weight 3-4" 2.5-3"

5-4" 3-3.5" 2-2.25"

**Standard operating procedures for checking Marking

Both sides of the marker should be measured by measuring tape to determine whether the pattern is tilted or not. The marker can also be checked by placing the pattern over marker.the marker should be accurate. Before cutting pins and clamps can be used to ensure that there is no shifting of the layer during cutting. The chalk used for making the marker should be fine and not thick. All the notches required in cutting should be marked at this stage.

*Standard operating procedure for checking cutting:

While cutting, care should be taken to ensure that the cutting person does not cut into the marker. The cutting should be done on the marker only. The notches given during cutting should not be deeper than 1/8. An easy way of checking the cutting from the same layer is to take out one piece each from the top, middle and bottom of the layer and compare these by keeping them one on the top of the other. all three pieces should coincide with each other. this should be done for all the different cut parts in the layer. A cutting inspection report is to be filled up for each .This report carries cutting inspection details along with bundle inspection details.

**Standard operating procedure for checking bundle:

Bundling inspection is to be carried out for atleast 25% of the bundles generated in a layer. In this, the checker has to do a physical count of all the different parts of a bundle and check whether all parts are present in the bundle or not. While doing bundling inspection the checker also also has to ensure that parts of the correct sizes are in the bundle. There should not be any mixing of different sizes in the bundle. Also the checker has to verify that the information on the bundle card is correct and there is no mixing of wrong size or wrong parts in the bundle.

Reaction plan on the basis of quality audit

Audit should be done on each stage

Is DHU is more then 10

Take Second Sample

Give instruction to checker about these defects

Is DHU more then 10 Again

Tell the checker to check all pcs. Again

DO audit the checked pcs. again

*Flowchart of inspection Procedures at Aval fashion House

Fabric Inspection as per 4 Point system in stores Trims and accessories inspection in stores Cutting room inspection Spreading Cutting Bundling Beading Sizing

Cutting audit (Random inspection) Sewing inspection Inline inspection End of line inspection Sewing audit Final Finishing checking Final Finishing Audit Measurement audit Final audit Packing Audit

Fabric Quality Control and Inspection

Quality softline products require quality piece goods(Fabric).Even the most outstanding methods cant compensate for defective materials .This documents provide recommendations to help you create an aggressive fabric quality program ,and there by eliminate many quality related problems before manufacturing process begins.

Fabric Inspection
Inspect the fabric at the mill where possible in most cases it is not necessary to 100% inspect goods unless the initial inspection is rejected,or the fabric is very expensive .Therefore we recommend a sample lot inspection of a minimum of 10% prior to spreading .The Point system of inspection is the most common method today,4 point system is one most commonly used.

Four Point System of Textile Inspection: Four Point System is based on penalty points
given to a defect found when inspecting fabric. Rule is as below: Not more than four penalty points may be given for any single defect. No more than four penalty points may be given to one linear yard/meter regardless of the number of defects found within one yard/meter. For continuous defects such as shading between side, centre side, side to side shading, end to end shading no penalty points are assigned but the roll is graded as second quality and must be reported to mill for replacement. The 4 point system is easy to understand since it is most widely used throughout the industry. Amount to inspect: Inspect 10% of the total rolls in the shipment, per color. Selection of rolls: Select at least one roll of each color .if more than one color per roll must be inspected then select the number of additional rolls in proportion to the total rolls per color received. Defect classification: The 4 point system classifies defects as shown below: Size of Defect 3or less Over 3 but not over 6 Over 6 but not over 9 Over 9 Points 1 2 3 4

A Maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard. The length of defects is used to determine the penalty points .Only major Faults are considered .A Major Fault is any defect that if we found on a finished garments would classify the garment as seconds. Acceptance Point Count: Total Yardage Received: Acceptance Point count: Total Yards Inspected: 2400 Yards 40 per 100 Yards 240 Yards

Total Penalty points found in sample inspection : 148 points Calculation 148/240X199=61.7points per 100 yds.(Allowance 40 pts. Per 100 yds.): FAIL You must decide whether to reject the entire shipments and return it to mill or whether to 100% inspect the balance of the rolls .The QA manager must make this decision ,do not leave on quality inspectors.

Inspection Procedure: Shows the steps necessary to ensure and effective fabric quality control
program. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and proper lighting. Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent bulbs above viewing area. Back light can be used as and when needed. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received Check the SGS /ITS/BVQ any accredited lab for approval Determine the amount of fabric to be inspected. Cut 3 pcs. From each color dyelot,15x15 cm.sq. and noting warp and weft direction .attach to color continuity card. Randomly select the rolls to inspect, per color. Put the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device. Cut off a 6 pcs. Across the width of the goods, mark this pc.so that the inspector will know the right and left side of Fabric. Use the strip to check at least 2 times for shading side to side and end to end. Inspect at slow enough speed to see visual defects . Check that rolls contains the yardage as stated by the piece goods packaging list. Check for skewing, biased and bowed fabric tolerance will be as per buyer norms.

If the inspector does not cut our defects, please mark the selvedge with a ticketing gum/or mark with fabric marker, so that the spreader can easily find the fault location ,to cut out during spreading. Record defects on report Check Fabric weight for each dye lot and advise on color continuity card.

Forms of Spreading

One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.

Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same direction.

Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional printed fabric.

Bundling Systems
"Bundling" is the process of disassembling the stacked and cut pieces and reassembling them in production lots grouped by garment unit, colour dye lot, and number of garments. Manufacturers use a variety of bundling methods depending upon their needs, with four basic systems being the most common among local manufacturers:

Item bundling - all pieces that comprise a garment are bundled together. Group bundling - several (10-20) garments are put together in a bundle and given to a single operator or team to sew.

Progressive bundling - pieces corresponding to specific sections of the garment (such as sleeves or a collar) are bundled together and given to one operator. Other operators sew other parts of the garment, which are then assembled into the finished garment in the final phase.

Unit production system (UPS) - individual garment pieces are delivered to sewers using a computerized, fully mechanized "assembly line" that runs throughout the manufacturing facility. Using a UPS computer monitoring system, a manufacturer can fully track the production of a garment, identify where sewing slowdowns are occurring, and reroute garment pieces to other sewers who work more quickly. Gerber Garment Technology Inc. manufactures a UPS system, which eliminates the need for passing apparel piece bundles from worker to

worker. This lowers labour costs because employees spend less time handling bundles and more time sewing. It also facilitates short-cycle manufacturing.

Modular or "team based" manufacturing is another type of bundling that combines some of the above characteristics. Developed in Japan, it is the grouping of sewing operators into teams of eight to ten. Rather than each sewer performing a single task, they work together on a garment from start to finish. One-third of the U.S. apparel industry has switched to either unit production or modular manufacturing. In Los Angeles, however, only a few major manufacturers engage in computerized unit productions (constituting about ten percent of total production) while the majority of contractors still use progressive bundling.

Bundling workers also carry out important quality control functions. They inspect the garment pieces for cutting problems, fabric irregularities, or any other problems that may have occurred in production thus far.

Introduction to Quality Control Quality :Definition and significance

The word quality has multiple meanings .Two of these meanings are critical, not only to quality planning but to strategic business planning as well as namely Product performance and Freedom From deficiencies

Product performance: Product satisfaction

In the sense of performance ,quality refers to the performance features of a product .such features are decisive as to product performance and as to product satisfaction. Such features compete with each other in the market place. External customers ,especially ultimate customers ,compare the competing performances. Their comparisons then became a factor in deciding whose product will be bought. Because of the competition in the market place ,a primary goal for product performance is to be equal or superior to the quality of competing products.

Freedom from Deficiencies:Product dissatisfaction

The word quality refers to freedom from deficiencies which take many forms as late deliveries, customer claims and return ,high rate of rework and even cancelation of sales. These collectively are forms of product dissatisfaction. Some Deficiencies impact external customers and hence are threat to future sales as well as source of higher costs. Other deficiencies impact internal customers only and hence are mainly a source of higher costs. Finally with above in Mind,we can define quality as :

Quality is Prevention: Constructing Solutions to problems before they occur and designing
excellence into a product or service.

Quality is customer satisfaction: The delight of the ultimate judge of how well products and
services measure up.

Quality is productivity: From employees who receive the training, the tolls and instruction they
need to execute their jobs.

Quality is flexibility: The willingness to change to meet demands

Quality Is efficiency: Doing things Quickly and Correctly Quality is Meeting: a schedule being on time Quality is a process :Of Ongoing process Quality is an investment: Reaping A pay off because in the long run, doing it rightthe first time
less expensive then correct it later.

There are two main aspects to quality of garment.

Design Quality: It is concerned with materials, fit and construction methods. Manufacturing Quality: Manufacturing quality is concerned with degree to which the garment produced agrees with the sample or specifications.

Who decides the quality level - The consumer of the number of the public who buys a garment from a retail shop also influences the quality requirements. In many cases this can be negative.i.e he does not buy, all though in the bigger organization where marketing programs are carried out the consumer can effect the design quality. In the majority of cases the customer decides the acceptable levels of quality both from design and manufacturing aspects. The customer may be a professional buyer for a large wholesale or retail organization. The main objective of quality control is to ensure that goods are produced to the first customer (Direct Order) and hopefully to the second customers(Re-order/Alter Order/New Order) as well.If both customers can be satisfied then the manufacturers products are more likely to be continued in demand. Satisfactory quality can only be ensured through( from the manufacturers point of view):

Knowing the customers needs Designing to meet them Faultless construction Certified performance and safety Clear instruction manuals Suitable packing Prompt delivery Feed back of filed experience

Satisfied quality can be ensured from the customers point of view by providing:

Right Product Right Quality Right Time Undamaged Condition

How can quality be achieved?

Goods must be designed to meet customers needs and make manufacturing process and maintenance easy. They must be made exactly and consistently to the specified design. Marketing must ensure accurate advertising, trade description with constant feedback for improved design. Total commitment to organized design.

Principles of Quality Management The objectives to prevent errors by early detection and action
are:

The need to make the requirement complete and clear at all levels, from this specification of a large system to the individuals work construction and terms of reference. The detection error by monitoring both product and the method by which it is produced The prevention of errors at the earliest(right at first time) The total involvement of all concerning the contribution to the final products quality. Establish a total forward or backward control system, allowing flexibility for change.

Purpose of Quality control It is a long standing tradition of any organization to offer the customers
first quality merchandise. The purpose of this control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting our high standards. In, addition companys quality control program can also help the suppliers with their operation. Quality control program not only help spot and reject defective items, but more importantly they pinpoint production operations that need special attention, there by reducing the number of defects in future production. This type quality control provides basis for management decisions in the manufacturers plant. The defect refers to the condition that renders merchandise of second quality or unacceptable because the defect is one or more of the following:

It is conspicuous

It will affect the salability of the product It will affect the serviceability of the product It is significantly different from the specification

A manufacturer realizes the following benefits from the Quality control programme:

Getting most for the quality control dollar. Using the entire quality control staff most effectively

Ensuring that even with turnover of personnel quality is maintained.

Measurement Leadership
Experience has proven that the key to effective quality control is measurements leadership in the program. If top measurement wants good quality and displays leadership in quality concerns, measurement and production supervisors will follow through. Without leadership from the top, there is often little or no improvement in quality no matter what system is used. These days suppliers are serious about improving quality control. The measurement of such suppliers has learned to identify the correct common problem areas such as the following:

No piece goods inspection, not even measuring yardage to see that company gets what it paid in total yards. No cutting inspection other than by a cutting supervisor. A ratio of only one sewing supervisor every 100-200 operators. A lack of quality inspectors or a ratio only one inspector to 100-200 operators or inspectors who are primarily bundle movers. Final 100 percent inspectors who are on piece rate pay and are performing operational functions such as trim, turn, button, zipper close, fold and package. Little or no training program for any type of inspector. Inspectors salary rates lower than the rate for any other job in the plan, pay at the minimum allowed. No checking for size other than measuring a few pilot lot garments. No lab testing or lab equipment, not even a washing machine. No inspection or checking of contracted merchandise beyond possibly sending someone to the contract shop once a week or once every two weeks, primarily to check delivery status.

Acceptance and shipment of import merchandise without checking it of quality or size

These conditions suggest areas to think about as one gets training. After the training one is able to evaluate the system in terms of recommendations for an efficient quality control program.

Final Statistical Auditing

The most crucial part of any quality control process is the final inspection. Statistical Auditing methods suggest the following quality control production:

Evaluate your piece goods suppliers, identify bad shipments and take corrective actions. Evaluate your operations in all areas of production (cutting , sewing, Finishing) and take corrective actions as necessary. Evaluate the terms and conditions specified in the letter/letter of credit/contract. Identify bad production and take corrective actions.

Guidelines for Quality Management

Measurement plays a critical role in quality control. The following guidelines for measurement reflect recommendations for initiating and effective quality control program. Measurement is responsible for determining who will have the final decision regarding quality control problems. The chain of responsibility may vary depending upon the3 size and staff of the manufacturer.

Garment Inspection
All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The quality of the garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made for so therefore buyers expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow various methods of inspection techniques all through the production and prior to shipment release from factory. Following correct inspection procedures, inspection systems and eventually shipment release gives the clear judgment of the quality of the garment. Under quality assurance process, the bulk production is inspected before delivery to the customer to examine if it meets the specifications. The consumers want to get quality products and the products should reach the consumers with right quality. Quality assurance covers all the processes within a factory that contributes to the production of quality garment products and is conducted right from where housing, manufacturing, finishing and packing

process until shipment is released. The final inspection is carved out by buyer representative or independent auditors free from any pressure from vendor or factory representative. Air of final inspection is to visually inspect articles at random from fully or 80-90% packed purchase order to verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or reference tagged sample received from buyer. Result is documented and recorded as reference but still vendor/manufacturer is always responsible for claims if any arising due to any defective goods found packed and inspected at buyers warehouse.

Types of Inspections
Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done to crosscheck for final verification of Bulk fabric and trims materials, styling cutting way, manufacturing details and workmanship of the garment or pre-production sample as per the customer requirement. 1st inline production inspection: This inspection is done at the start of production when first production output of particular style of garments is inspected; to distinguish possible discrepancies or variation and to do necessary corrections to be made bulk production. This type of inspection is done at preliminary stage of manufacturing of a style covering mainly style detail, general appearance, workmanship, measurements, fabric quality, Trims and components, Lot color, printing, embellishments and washing quality. 2nd line Production Inspection: This inspection is done during production to ensure initial discrepancies have been corrected and rectified. This inspection is a follow-up of the 1 st inline production inspection and is generally carried out after 1st line inspection when discrepancies have been detected at that time. Final Random Inspection: This inspection is carried out when the production of the total quantity of an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a percentage of the garments will be inspected, this percentage usually being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling inspection system as specified by the buyer.

Garment Defects Classification

Once the samples are selected, each article is to be individually inspected. Defects detected during an inspection are buyer specific so therefore vary from one buyer to another. Defects are classified within the following categories:

Critical Defect: A serious defect that can cause harm or injury to the user and/or result in a hazardous condition.

Major defects: A defect that falls to meet the mandatory regulations directly affecting the usability, salability, safety and value of the merchandise or as specified by customer buyer are considered as major defects and are generally non repairable for example fabric hole, shading among panel, wrong measurement, foreign yarn, dye patches etc. The measurement tolerate level may vary from customer to customer.

Minor Defects: A defect that does not adversely affect the usability of the product but does consists of a deviation from the original sample, and may affect the sale of the product. Some of these defects are due to workmanship and some can be repairable but still can deteriorate the serviceability of the merchandise for example stain, skip stitch, wavy bottom hem etc.

AQL Random Sampling inspection

AQL stands for Acceptable Quality level. The AQL determines the maximum amount of admitted defective units in a sample. AQL, for purposes of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process average. The most commonly used AQL is a major 2.5 Minor 4.0. The AQL random sampling inspection is derived from the mathematical theory of probability and is based on the sampling these defined in military standard 105D (MIL - STD - 105D). Some defectives are considered acceptable. This method constitutes taking random sample from a lot of merchandise, inspecting them and depending on the quality of the sample inspected determining whether the entire lot is acceptable or not. The MIS - STD - 105D (also BS 6001, ISO 2859, DIN 40080) provides the sampling plans; and these determine the number of samples of be inspected in lot size, in addition to indicating and the acceptable quality level (AQL) which represents the maximum number of defects per hundred units that, for the purpose of the sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average. In general cases the buyer will determine which sampling plan and what AQL to adopt. The AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection conditions are required for expensive items like up market or Boutiques. The AQL 2.5 is applied when textiles or normal/good quality are involved. There are three types of sampling plans. Each sampling plan can be performed at three levels, i.e. normal tightened and reduced, depending on inspection requirements and quality of the products. In the garments industry generally single and double normal sampling plans are applied. The sample size code letter table shows various lot sizes corresponding to a series of code letters. There are seven inspection levels, four for general inspection (already mentioned) and three for special inspection. For garment inspection, general inspection level II (normal II) is normally applied.

Inspection Methods
Single sampling plan - Normal inspection Assurance as AQL 2.5% and a lot of 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the number of defective garments found are 5 the total lot is "Acceptable" suppose if the garments found is 6, the total lot is "Reject/Re-Check". Double sampling plan - normal inspection Assurance an AQL 4.0% and lot size is 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80 garments. If the number of defective garments found is 7, the total lot is "Acceptable" suppose if the defective garments found are 8, the total lot is "Reject/Re-check". Today most of the customer demand for high quality products in low prices. So we should maintain the quality from the beginning stage of the production then only the final product with reach the consumer with right quality and we can get the order continuously from our customers. The garment manufacturers inspect their products continuously by designated responsible inspectors then only the right quality product will reach the consumers. Inspection-shipment carton selection:For pre-final inspection, selection of cartons from total cartons packed can be done based as shown table: Total cartons in Shipment 1-15" 15-25 26-90 91-150 151-280 281-500 501 and above 2 3 5 8 13 20 32 Carton Selected

No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Description-The standards specified are minimum standards, and provide guidelines for apparel construction and performance to achieve consumer satisfaction.This knowledge will be helpful for buyers, suppliers and Agents.The standards objective is to deliver quality merchandise to the customer. It applies to all categories of apparel and textiles.

Quality Assurance Policies and records: A necessary tool for understanding and
communicating a quality program is through the development a written quality policy and quality manual. The quality policy establishes priorities relative to materials, processes ,training, product development and customer service.