Why You Should Soak Some Seeds

Before Planting
It is traditional to soak some seeds before planting them. Soaking can accelerate
germination and increase the proportion of seeds that successfully germinate.

Seeds have evolved a protective coating around the embryo so the embryo can survive
being dispersed by some means. The coating protects the seeds until they find themselves
in a suitable place to grow into a new plant. The seed coat that protects the embryo within,
stays intact until the conditions, temperature, light and moisture, are suitable for
germination. Seeds are dry and need water to initiate germination. The water softens and
breaks the seed coat and may leach away germination inhibitors.

The water is usually in the soil where the seed falls, and when enough has been absorbed
by the seed coat, germination begins. However, particularly in very sandy soils where the
water drains away quickly, or heavy clay soils where water does not penetrate dry soil
easily, soaking the seeds before planting will help initiate germination.
What Seeds Benefit from Soaking Prior to Planting?

Almost all seeds can be pre-soaked, but it is large seeds, seeds with thick coats and
wrinkled seeds that will benefit most. Small seeds benefit less and are difficult to handle
when wet.

Examples of seeds that benefit from soaking include peas, beets, cucumber, corn, squash,
pumpkin and beans.
How to Soak Your Seeds

In a bowl, cover your seeds with warm water and leave to soak for 6-24 hours. Smaller
seeds and those with thinner coats need the shorter time, and larger seeds with thicker
coats need the longer period.

Some seeds will naturally float, and some will stay below the surface. Do not worry about
those that float. The seeds will swell with absorption of the water.
Plant the seeds in the soil or seed mix immediately. This pre-soaking will hasten
germination by a few days and up to a week.
The soaking of wheat seed (Triticum vulgare L.) in water or CaCl2 solutions followed by
air-drying before planting accelerated the germination but did not affect the final
percentage germination and subsequent growth of the seedlings under normal
conditions. However, under conditions of 0.5% NaCl salinity the soaking and drying of
the seeds before planting stimulated the germination and growth of the seedlings. In no
case were the presowing treatments more effective in improving the germination and
root and shoot growth under 0.5% NaCl salinity than under normal condition. Under
0.5% NaCl salinity the seedlings grown from treated seeds had more extensive and
deeper root systems than the seedlings grown from untreated seeds. Presowing soaking
of the seed failed to improve the germination under increasing salinity of 1.0 and 1.5%
NaCl.

The correct option is A soft

Seeds are generally stored in dry form. Therefore, the soaking of seeds is done to soften them so that they can be cooked
easily. Overtime, they absorb water and become soft and ready for cooking.

How To Soak Seeds Before Planting And The Reasons For Soaking Seeds Seeds By: Heather
Rhoades Printer Friendly Version Image by Helin Loik-Tomson Soaking seeds before planting is an
old-time gardener’s trick that many new gardeners are not aware of. When you soak seeds before
planting, you can significantly decrease the amount of time it takes for a seed to germinate. Let’s
look at the reasons for soaking seeds and how to soak seeds. Reasons for Soaking Seeds What
happens to seeds when you soak them? Why should you soak your seeds? 0 seconds of 0
secondsVolume 0% This ad will end in 30 The short answer is because your seeds were designed
to be abused. Mother Nature is not kind to a little seed. In the wild, a seed can expect to
encounter harsh heat and cold, very wet or dry conditions and may even need to survive the acid-
filled digestive tract of an animal. In short, seeds have developed over millions of years with
defenses to survive awful conditions. But in your modern day garden, a seed is relatively
pampered. Soaking seeds before planting helps you to break down the seed’s natural defenses
against what it expects from Mother Nature, which then allows it to germinate faster. Another
reason is that while Mother Nature actively assaults seeds, she also gave those seeds an internal
gauge to help them know when they should grow. For most seeds, moisture levels play a big role
in alerting a seed to optimal grow times. By soaking the seeds, you can quickly boost the moisture
content around the seeds, which signals to the seed that it is now safe to grow. And lastly, for
some types of seeds, they actually contain germination inhibitors that are designed to prevent a
seed from germinating inside the fruit. These inhibitors must be leached away before a seed can
germinate. In nature with natural rainfall, this process can take some time. But when you soak
your seeds, the process is sped up. How to Soak Seed Before Planting Seed soaking, at a basic
level needs two things: seeds and water. Explore More Some methods for seed soaking may
substitute the water for slightly acidic solutions, such as weak tea or coffee or even acidic
chemicals. These acidic solutions are meant to imitate loosely the stomach acid of an animal. But
these solutions are not necessary in most cases. For most seeds, water will work just fine. Take a
small bowl and fill it with water from your tap, as hot as your tap will allow. Some seeds can
tolerate boiling water, but as the tolerance for heat can vary greatly from species to species, hot
tap water is safest for seed soaking. Once your bowl is filled with hot water, place your seeds
inside the bowl, then allow the seeds to stay in the water as it cools down. Common questions at
this point include “How long should seeds be soaked?” and “Can you over soak seeds?” Yes, you
can over soak seeds. Too much soaking in water and a seed will drown. It is recommended that
you only soak most seeds for 12 to 24 hours and no more than 48 hours. The seeds of some
species of plants can survive longer soakings, but you should only do this if the specific
instructions for this species recommend so. There are things you can do to improve how well your
seeds react to soaking. Large seeds or seeds with particularly hard coats can benefit from
scarification before soaking. Scarification means to damage the seed coat in some way so that the
water is better able to penetrate the seed. Scarification can be done through several methods.
These include rubbing the seed on fine grain sand paper, nicking the seed coat with a knife, and
even gently tapping the seed with a hammer to help crack the seed coat. After soaking your seeds,
they can be planted as directed. The benefit of soaking seeds before planting is that your
germination time will be reduced, which means you can have happy, growing plants faster.

Soak Seeds Before Planting: Is It Necessary?

Should you soak seeds before planting? We discuss why this is done, whether it should be done, and

if there's other methods that will work.

By Elizabeth CramerLAST UPDATED: APRIL 26, 2023 | 8 MIN READ

Table of Contents

Are you just starting to grow from seed? That’s ok! It’s a great time to start! Growing from seed is a
wonderful option for people who love gardening. All those seedlings can add up in price, and
oftentimes there is a whole world of variety available to people who grow from seed. If you’re just
getting started, and even if you’ve been growing from seeds for a while, it’s a good idea to soak
seeds before planting. This can have a dramatic effect on your germination rate and overall success
with gardening!

Soaking seeds supplies your plants a jump start right at the beginning of their lives. The water both
softens the seed shell and supplies water to the seed interior. Once soaked, seeds and the plants
inside them use that moisture to grow and push out new growth.

By soaking seeds before planting, especially in a well-lit place, you’re mimicking the rainy weather
and light conditions that seeds in nature would be exposed to. The difference is that you’re doing it in
a bowl on your counter instead of outside in the elements. If possible, expose your soaking seeds to
some warmth as well, warm enough for a cozy room, but not too much that it would be too hot to
touch.

Not all seeds do well if soaked. Some seeds such as violas need moisture and darkness. Some are
too tiny to soak, and will just disintegrate. Others have been biologically programmed to sprout after
going through a fire… why? Because that is when the competition for light and water has just died off!
Some seeds have a very thick shell and are used to passing through the digestive system of an
animal and thus can benefit from a method called scarification before soaking. Every seed is different.
With a little research, you can discover what the optimal conditions for your seeds are.

Before you get your seeds soaking, assess the size of your seed. Is it large enough to handle once
soaked? Is it papery? Or hard? Do a little research and make sure that soaking seeds before planting
what needs to happen with your seeds. Each plant has its own needs in terms of heat, light, and
water.

Is Soaking Seeds Necessary?

Should you soak seeds before planting? We’ll explore that today. Source: Carol Browne
Gardens are often pretty forgiving. The plants we see all around us wouldn’t be here if nature didn’t
have that wonderful little trick of finding a way to survive. That being said, we’re often trying to trick
plants from the other side of the world into growing in a place that isn’t their natural climate or growing
conditions. Because that is so often the case, soaking your seeds is a great way to start your seeds
life.

The natural way to germinate seeds is to let nature be nature. Nature leaves seeds on the ground for
animals to eat and poop out or leaves them for the elements to get wet to start the germination
process. This is the way that people find ‘volunteers’ in their garden from a previous year’s crop.
However, if you’re excited to grow a specific type of hot pepper, or just trying to grow a special type
of flower you’ve never grown before, you won’t want to leave it to chance. Plants produce thousands,
sometimes tens of thousands of seeds in the chance that just 2-3 will survive and reach adulthood
and reproduce. When you’ve gone to the trouble of purchasing seeds or getting them from a friend,
those aren’t the odds you’ll be ok with.

As a general rule of thumb, your seeds will sprout even if you don’t soak your seeds before planting,
but with soaking, the germination time decreases, and the germination rate increases. Seeds that
have a continual flow of moisture to uptake have much higher chances of success. If you’re on a
schedule, or the climate only gives you a short window in which to grow – soaking your seeds can
make all the difference to getting the most out of your garden.

What’s Happening When You Soak Seeds?

Seeds are made up of baby plant parts surrounded by a seed coat. While the insides of a monocot
and dicot seed are different, the seed coat in both cases exists to protect the baby plant until it’s the
right time to sprout. They contain the parts that will sprout and become the plant’s first leaves and
stem as well as food for the initial growth. The seed coat is a part of the seed’s natural defenses
against the harsh forces found in nature. It prevents the seed from sprouting when conditions are not
at their finest. By seed soaking, you’re telling the seed that it’s the right time to germinate and begin
becoming a plant.
Let’s think about a sweet pea for example. Sweet peas are early season crops. They produce
gorgeous flowers and a wonderful scent meant to entice bees to pollinate them. After blooming they
grow seed pods that look much like other pea pods but a bit furrier. They stay on the vine and mature
and eventually dry out. A single pod has many seeds in it, sometimes 10 or more, and the plant
produces up to around a thousand seeds. Those seeds then go through a hot summer (which can be
wet or dry), a fall, and the winter. Those seeds need to keep from germinating until the seed senses
that it’s cool enough and wet enough that the plant will be able to live a full life and reproduce.

For gardeners who seek out their precious sweet pea seeds and bring them safely inside for storage,
those seeds won’t come up against the normal forces they would in nature that over time would wear
down the seed coat. It might pass through a digestive system, or be walked over by animals, or stuck
between rocks. Come late fall or early winter when it’s time to start the growing process, a gardener
would soak the seeds after nicking the seed coat and soaking for 24 hours. This process mimics what
the seed would go through in nature, but does it when and where the gardener wants it to grow. This
process is called seed scarification.

What Type Of Seeds Need A Presoak?

Not all seeds are easy to soak. Small seeds in particular can clump together in water and be a
nightmare to work with afterward. Larger seeds with thick seed exteriors are ideal for soaking to
kickstart the germination process. Others that are wrinkled seeds, like peas, do especially well after
soaking. After putting those seeds in water, they’ll plump up and be ready to direct sow.
A short list of seeds that like to soak are peas, beans, pumpkins and other winter
squash, chard, beets, sunflower, lupine, fava beans, and cucumbers. Most other medium-
to-large vegetable and flower seeds with thick coats benefit from soaking.

What Types of Pre Soaked Seeds Can Be Direct Sown?

After soaking your seeds for 12 to 24 hours, many larger seeds can be direct sown into your garden.
The benefits of this are that seeds do their best when direct-sown – the process of transplanting out
seedlings somewhat stunts the growth of a plant and keeps their roots from reaching the depth they
would have otherwise grown to. While this isn’t an option for everyone, especially those growing with
limited space or in regions with frost, direct sowing should be done whenever possible.

What Happens When You Soak Too Long?

Seeds are tiny, living capsules that hold a plant’s living embryo. Many new gardeners assume that if
soaking the seed for 12-24 hours is recommended, then soaking them for longer is even better —
and this isn’t the case!

If you over-soak your seeds, you’re cutting off the oxygen to the baby plant inside the seed, and it
essentially suffocates. If the seed has died, it won’t germinate, so it’s important to ensure that doesn’t
happen.

As a general rule, aim for an overnight soak whenever possible, planting your seeds as soon after
you get up as possible. If you can’t plant right away in the morning, drain off the excess water from
your seeds, cover the container with something breathable like a kitchen towel or paper towel, keep it
in a cool place, and then come back to it later in the day when you’re able to plant. But make sure to
plant those seeds as soon after draining off the water as you can, as they’re already waking up in
there and may start to sprout!
Are There Seeds You Shouldn’t Soak?

Pumpkin seeds getting a nice soak before planting. Source: call me a safe bet

There are plenty of small seeds that won’t really benefit from soaking. Not so much because they
don’t have a seed coat that needs moisture to trigger germination, but because they are so small that
planting wet small seeds is just not practical.
Smaller seeds such as basil, chia, tomatoes, lettuce, black-eyed susans, foxglove, and
lisianthus are all examples of times when you should not soak your seeds. Simply by sowing them in
trays or direct-sowing in areas you can keep the soil evenly moist should be sufficient. They still work
in much the same way – their seed coats need to be moist in order to germinate, but by watering first
thing in the morning and keeping the area shaded you’ll speed their germination time and get growth
in no time. In particular, tomatoes, basil, and chia all have a seed coat that absorbs and holds
moisture around the seed to improve germination, so keeping the soil moisture consistent is all they
need for survival.
There are also seeds such as zinnias and bachelor’s buttons that have a paper-like seed coat.
These seeds come from very dry regions where seeds will sprout at the first sign of rain. These seeds
can be direct sown into moist soil without presoaking.

Other Germination Methods Besides Soaking

Seeds can germinate by other methods too. For smaller seeds like tomato or pepper seeds, try
placing them on a damp paper towel, wet sphagnum moss, or fine-textured moistened vermiculite.
Keep the medium evenly moist using filtered water (not tap water). This way, the continual moisture
helps the seeds to germinate. These seeds shouldn’t be submerged in water as they’re apt to stick
together or to disintegrate if around too much water. Seed starting is pretty straightforward using this
method.

Allow the seeds to soak up the water and watch for signs of germination. Be sure to spritz every 12
hours so it doesn’t dry out. As soon as the seeds have germinated, transfer them to seed trays or
directly into your garden. Remember that seeds generally need to be planted at the depth of twice the
seed width unless otherwise indicated by your seed supplier. And if the seed has stuck to the paper
towel, then tear out the segment of paper towel it’s stuck to and plant it!

There are some other unusual ways to start seeds that result from the wide range of climates that
exist throughout the world. Different plants have evolved only to germinate at certain times during a
year, or after major events like a fire.

Some seeds, especially tree seeds like tulip trees, golden rain trees, oaks, and sweetgums need to
experience chilling for an extended period of time before they get to the right conditions for
germination. These can benefit from a short period of time in the refrigerator crisper drawer before
soaking and planting.
How To Soak Seeds

A variety of seeds soaking in preparation for planting. Source: aismist

To soak your seeds, use any regular bowl or jar and fill it with filtered warm water. If the water is too
hot for you to leave a finger in, it’s too hot for your seeds. Aim for water that is just barely warm to the
touch, but not hot. Place the seeds in water and let the pre-soaking process continue for 8-24 hours
depending on the seed size. Try to use filtered water instead of tap water if it’s available, and don’t let
them soak for more than 24 hours.

Immediately after the seed soaking period is over, the seeds need to be planted out. They cannot dry
out again as that would keep them from germinating at all. Be sure to know where the seeds are
going and to have either your garden prepped, or seed trays ready to go when you start soaking
seeds.

After soaking the seeds and transplanting them, be sure to keep the soil moist continuously for the
first few weeks of growth. While your seeds are in this tender and young state, they can’t dry out
without the risk of dying. While young, their roots only extend a few inches deep into the soil and they
need moisture near the soil level. After they become established, you can begin to water less
frequently and prepare to enjoy the fruits of your garden!

Soaking Seeds Before Planting: Method That

Worked Best for Us
There’s a lot of debate that revolves around whether seeds should be soaked before planting.

Many varieties of seeds do not need to be soaked before planting as they can absorb water
from the soil.
Soaking seeds before planting can speed up the germination process by introducing moisture
into the seed, weakening its coating, and prompting the seedling to emerge. Seeds should be
soaked between 12 hours and 4 days which can be done by either immersing them in a jar of
water or covering them with a damp cloth.
Here’s my experience with soaking seeds and what I found that worked really well when
preparing seeds for the upcoming planting season.
How to Soak Seed Before Planting

Soaking seeds before planting is a process that can be done in several ways.

The first method involves placing the seeds in a container of water for about 4 days. This will work
with fully ripened-fruits and vegetables.

Here is a guaranteed 100% germination way to save seeds

The good seeds will be at the bottom, dry them out on a washcloth and pack them away in a
sandwich bag, and don’t forget to label them.

The second method is to place them on top of a dampened paper towel for more than 24 hours,
remove them from the towel when there are signs of germination and root development and place
them on top of potting soil in your desired container.
I use this Miracle-Gro Potting Mix from amazon, which ensures my plants stay healthy long after
repotting. You can find it by clicking here.

Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix

This specially formulated blend is designed to provide your plants with the perfect balance of nutrients,
moisture, and aeration for vibrant growth.

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The third method is to place them in cold water for about an hour, remove them from the water,
and allow them to dry out. These methods are not mutually exclusive, so experiment with all three
ways on your plantings this year.
Soaking the seed before planting is to make sure the seed is thoroughly hydrated. This process
helps in preventing the seed from drying out and dying.

You can either soak the seeds in a cup of water for an hour or place them in a jar with water, cover
them with a cloth, and leave them overnight. Alternatively, you can soak the seeds in boiling water
for ten minutes.

Contrary to soaking seeds, we have also tried drying seeds out before planting, which works for
certain types of seeds.
Why You Should Soak Some Seeds Before Planting

Seeds need water to sprout. You can’t just plant them in moist soil and hope for the best because
there is a chance that they will dry out before they grow roots. Soaking them beforehand ensures
they are ready to grow when you plant them.

It is vital to soak some seeds before planting. If you don’t, the seeds will take a long time
to germinate or may not even germinate at all.
If you live in an area where it rains often, this shouldn’t be an issue because rainwater is enough for
the seedlings’ needs.

If you live in an arid region and it doesn’t rain often, it’s essential to soak your seeds before
planting to have enough moisture to survive until the next rainfall comes along.

Seeds need to be soaked in water for a few hours before planting. This helps them to absorb water
and expand. However, some seeds, like onion and garlic, are best left to soak overnight.

After the soaking process, you can plant the seeds into the soil or a pot of soil mix.

However, this is only sometimes the case. Some seeds should not be soaked before planting
because they are more likely to rot and die.

These seeds include tomato, pepper, and eggplant. Planting these seeds by just sprinkling them on
the soil is best.
Set of 43 Assorted Vegetable & Herb Seed
 All Seeds are Heirloom, 100% Non-GMO!
 High Germination Rate within 7-14 days
 Great way to stock up for the next planting season!
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Here’s an excellent method for propagating avocado seeds from soaking.

What Seeds Should not be Soaked Before Planting

Even though some plant seeds may need to be soaked in water, a few should not be soaked before
planting.

Here are the seeds to avoid soaking before planting:

 Seeds that need light to germinate, such as onion or lettuce.

 Seeds with a hard outer coating, such as peas and beans.
 Seeds need to be planted in the ground immediately.
 Seeds with a hard outer shell, such as beans and peas. These need to be soaked in water to
soften the outer shell, but they can still be planted without soaking.
 Planting packets that contain a mix of different seeds. These packets should not be soaked
before planting because they will not all require soaking.
 Seeds that have been treated with pesticide or fungicide. Pesticides and fungicides protect
plants from being attacked by insects or diseases; therefore, it is best to wait until after the
seedlings appear so you can soak them for 20 minutes before planting them outdoors.
So, next time you soak the seeds, keep in mind this checklist and avoid soaking these seeds before
planting.

Do Soaked Seeds Burst Their Seed Coats

The answer to this question is no; soaked seeds do not burst their seed coats. The seed coat protects
the embryo from water or oxygen damage. The seed coat prevents the water from getting in, and it
also prevents oxygen from getting in.
When seeds are soaked, they absorb water and grow. Therefore, soaked seeds are sometimes called
“hydrated” seeds.
The seed coat is the outermost layer of the seed. It protects the embryo from damage and helps it to
survive harsh weather, such as drought or frost. The seed coat is made of a tough material called
“testa.”
The testa may burst if the seed absorbs too much water quickly or if it absorbs water at a
temperature too high for its testa to withstand.

What Happens When Seeds are Soaked in Water Overnight?

This is a question that many people who are interested in gardening have asked. Seeds absorb the
water and swell when they are soaked in water overnight. This allows the seed to grow.

Therefore, the answer to the question of what will happen when seeds are soaked in water
overnight is that they will grow.

This is because the seeds absorb the water and swell, absorbing nutrients from the soil and air.
Next, the seed’s cells divide and grow, eventually forming a root that sticks out of the seed’s
bottom. This root absorbs nutrients from the soil, which help it grow into a plant.

When seeds are soaked in water for a long period, they can grow roots and eventually become
plants.

The water the seeds are soaked in will start seeping through the seed’s hard outer shell and into its
soft interior.

The water will dissolve and break down some of the natural chemicals (enzymes) found inside the
seed. This process can help soften a seed, making it easier for it to germinate.
Pro Tips For Soaking Seeds Before Planting

Soaking seeds before planting is soaking them in water for a certain amount of time to help them
germinate and become healthy seedlings. The process is simple, and you’ll reap the benefits of a
healthy plant.

The following are some tips for soaking seeds before planting:

 Soak your seeds in a container filled with water for about 12 hours.
 Seeds need enough water to be fully submerged. So make sure you have enough water, and
remember to add extra water if needed!
 Ensure the container has enough room for your seedling roots to grow without cramps.
 Keep the seeds at room temperature and away from direct sunlight or heat sources; this can
cause them to dry out too quickly.
 The water must be warm and hot enough. The temperature of the water should be between 60-
70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Remember these best tips, plant your seed, and watch it grow!

The Takeaway

There are different opinions on whether seeds should be soaked before planting. While some
believe the seeds don’t have to be soaked before planting because, ultimately, the seeds will absorb
the water after it is planted, others believe it is of utmost necessity to soak the seeds before
planting.

This is because it will help speed up the germination process and make the plant healthier and more
robust.

However, one more important thing to understand is that not all seeds need to be soaked before
planting.

Likewise, some seeds can be cleaned before planting. So, next time you plan to soak the seeds,
check whether it requires soaking, and then go ahead with the entire process carefully!

The Seed Series: Techniques for Saving Dry vs.

Wet Seeds
Farming & Homesteading, Gardening
Seed saving can be an extremely finicky business, as anyone who’s ever tried it will know. Much of the
technique required to successfully save seeds depends upon a knowledge of the different types of seeds
and their physiological properties. This may sound overwhelming for the average gardener or seed
enthusiast, but Will Bonsall has compiled some of the most important information on collecting and
storing seeds.
The following excerpt is from Will Bonsall’s Essential Guide to Radical, Self-Reliant Gardening by
Will Bonsall. It has been adapted for the web.
(Unless otherwise noted, all photography courtesy of Will Bonsall.)

Collecting and Storing Seeds

Figure 6.12. If they’re brought indoors before hard freezes, cucumbers can continue to after-ripen for a few weeks before processing to improve quality.
The most frequently asked seed-saving question is: How can I tell when seed is mature
enough? Very important, since immature seeds will not store well, nor will they germinate. We must
remember that “maturity” for our purposes means that the seed germ has developed fully; the seed may
appear full-sized but still be succulent and underdeveloped (leek seed is an example).
Frequently in seed saving you cannot have your cake and eat it, too—you get seed or food, not both.
However there are several exceptions. For example, cukes (cucumbers) and zucchinis are eaten in the
immature stage, and those you wish to save for seed must be left to ripen way beyond usefulness as
food. On the other hand winter squash and pumpkins are eaten at full maturity anyway, so your seed
squash are also food squash and vice versa (provided you’ve kept them pure). In fact the quality of
squash seed improves with storage in the fruit—after-ripening, it’s called— so it’s best if you don’t
process them all at harvest, but scoop out and save the seed of each fruit as you use it. At some point
however, depending on variety, seeds may start to sprout inside the intact fruit.

Working with Dry Seeds

Seeds are sometimes classified according to their processing method: wet or dry. Most are dry and
are processed by a combination of methods called threshing and winnowing. For these seeds their
degree of dryness is a measure of their maturity. You can purchase devices for measuring the seeds’
moisture content, but for our purposes it’s easy to determine well enough by following this basic rule of
thumb: Are the seed and its surroundings (pod, bract, et cetera) brittle and crumbly?
For example, do the pods crack rather than bend like leather? Does all the trash crumble into dust and
stuff that can be blown away? If not, leave the plants until they are fully mature. If rain wets them let
them dry out again. If frost threatens and you’re not certain whether the bean seeds are ready (unlike
pea seeds, damp beans can be ruined by heavy frost), then you must make a decision: Can you cover
the plants to protect them through that frost or should you harvest them, even though the pods are a bit
leathery? If you opt for the latter, it’s better to pull the entire plants, roots and all, rather than pick pods.
The seeds may be able to draw a little more life force from the parent plant, just enough to finish their
ripening. Next time plant earlier or use some season-expanding strategy, so you will not have this
concern.
What about overmature? In general overmature is a meaningless term, like jumbo shrimp or modern
art. If seed is mature it is just mature, that’s all. However there are concerns lest it should shatter onto
the ground, a real issue with brassicas and parsnip, or be eaten by birds, particularly composites like
salsify and sunflower. And if seed stalks sprawl over so that the seeds or pods are on the wet ground,
they may either rot or sprout. But the seed itself cannot get “too ripe.”
I’ve developed several strategies for avoiding the above-mentioned problems. When I notice brassica
seed stalks that have reached the shatter-prone stage, I leave them alone until the next morning. The
seed is no less mature then, but the pods will have taken up a slight dampness during the night
hours and can be handled with little or no loss. I collect them by stripping the pods from the stalks
into a large paper bag or even just clipping off the whole stalks or plants if they’re not too badly
tangled. I leave this bag opened to the air until the pods are as dry as they were the previous afternoon
and then proceed to process them.
When salsify seed is ripening I cover individual heads with scraps of gauze, but only after pollination is
long over. In extreme cases of persistent wet weather I have covered plants with some sort of canopy,
but that’s very rare; what gets wet will dry out again.

Working with Wet Seed

The “wet” seed crops, those that hold the seed within a succulent fruit, like tomatoes, peppers, squash,
and cukes, require a somewhat different approach. For each of these fruits there are slightly different
clues to determine when seeds have reached maturity.
A tomato should be ripe enough for eating or, better yet, overripe to the point where you might
hurl it at an inept performer or political opponent. Very rarely will a fruit ripen so much that the
seed sprouts within it. Despite what I said earlier about underripe seed, tomatoes and peppers are
somewhat more forgiving. I have regularly harvested green tomatoes, full-sized and shiny but green
nonetheless, and ripened them in a sunny window, at which point the germ was fully developed.
Likewise peppers: Ideally peppers should have turned their mature colour (usually red, but sometimes
yellow or chocolate brown) on the plant, but again, I have been forced by early frost to pick them green
or half green and after-ripen indoors, quite successfully.

Figure 6.13. Scrape the innards of cucumbers into a bucket or other container in which you can ferment the seeds. Photograph courtesy of Joe Hodgkins.
As for cucurbits obviously a cucumber or summer squash at the eating stage is useless for seed. The
cuke must be left to become a deep yellow-orange blimp or better yet brown and netted like a melon.
As for zucchini you know those giant inedible prizewinners at the fair? You get the picture.
With cukes and tomatoes you have a clingy goo that consists of amniotic sacs, much like frogs’
eggs in function and appearance. You could simply spread the whole business out on a rack or paper
towel and it will eventually dry, but that would be a huge mistake. You see, that gelid stuff is designed
to retain moisture, which is very helpful for seeds that are expected to germinate in the short term but
not for seeds that may need to remain dormant in the packet for several years.
It also provides an ideal medium for the growth of various disease spores, such as the fungus that
causes damping off in seedlings. Hmm! Might just be a good idea to get rid of that stuff, but how? It
turns out that goo is easily broken down by a brief fermentation, which not only doesn’t harm the seed
but actually leaves the seed coat impregnated with lots of antibiotic and probiotic stuff that actually
protects the seed from those bad cooties. How simpatico! Marketplace seed is usually de-gelled by
exposing the seed to a solution of hydrochloric acid. That sterilizes the seed coats but destroys all that
probiotic benefit. The marketplace doesn’t have time to let nature take its course, but perhaps you
do. How much time does it take to ferment seeds to the right point? A few days; some say until traces
of mould dot the surface, others say when fruit flies start to take note; I say when your significant other
yells at you to “Get that stuff out of here!”; that’s a pretty reliable indicator.
When your mixture reaches that critical point take the bowl or cup of ugly glop and put it in a
glass jar along with several times that volume of water. (I occasionally grow cuke seed
commercially, in which case I use 5-gallon plastic, or 18.9 l, pails.) Stir the mix well, breaking up
lumps with your pinkies—yes, your hands will smell gross, but it goes away in a few weeks. If you
prefer, use a long-handled spoon.
As it swirls around in the jar you’ll notice some stuff swirling around to the bottom and other stuff
swirling around to the top. The bottom stuff is mainly plump seed with some of the denser pulp
following it, especially bits of pulp attached to seed. The top scum is mostly gas-filled pulpy fibre. If
there are seeds mixed with the floating crud, either they are attached to some lightweight pulp or the
seeds themselves are no good, filled with buoyant gas; no loss there.

Figure 6.14. This bucketful of fermented cucumber seed is just gross enough to be processed.
Especially with cucumbers I always have lots of floating seed; it is alarming to see such nice
plump-looking seed getting poured off with the scum. If you need reassurance save some out and
dry it separately: See how it shrinks to hollow hulls that blow away at a puff. The plumpness, like a
baby’s smile, was the result of gas.
Don’t be fanatic with this first decantation; be satisfied with pouring off half of the cruddy
slurry. Then repeat the process again and again; each time the cruddy liquid will become thinner and
clearer and the good seed will sink faster (it was slightly buoyed up before by the denser dirty water).
When the water is clean enough to suit you, put the seed in a strainer and give it a last cold rinse before
spreading it out on a tray or screen to dry.
Allow several days to be on the safe side. As with any seeds too long is better than not long enough,
provided they’re safe from mice. The fuzzy tomato seeds will form clumps that are easily “singulated”
by rubbing between your palms. Cucumber seeds will retain a dry residual film that is easily sloughed
off and blown away, but beware: The seed ends can jab your palms nastily if you rub them
hard. Same with melons, although they do not need to be fermented, nor do dry-processed squash or
peppers.
As with tomatoes and peppers the ripe seeds of cucurbits continue to draw some life force from the
placenta. Even though the squash fruits may be fully mature at harvest, the seed is further improved if
you leave it in the fruit in storage for several weeks before scooping out the seeds.

Seed Testing

Seed testing is determining the standards of a seed lot viz., physical purity, moisture, germination and ODV and thereby enabling the
farming community to get quality seeds.

The Seed Testing Laboratory is the hub of seed quality control. Seed testing services are required from time to time to gain information
regarding planting value of seed lots. Seed testing is possible for all those who produce, sell and use seeds.

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Objective & Importance of Seed Testing

Seed testing is required to achieve the following objectives for minimising the risks of planting low quality seeds.

1. To identify the quality problem and their probable cause

2. To determine their quality, that is, their suitability for planting

3. To determine the need for drying and processing and specific procedures that should be used

4. To determine if seed meets established quality standards or labelling specifications.

5. To establish quality and provide a basis for price and consumer discrimination among lots in the market. The primary aim of
the seed testing is to obtain accurate and reproducible results regarding the quality status of the seed samples submitted to
the Seed Testing Laboratories.

Importance

 The importance of seed testing was realized more than 100 years ago for assured planting values. The adulteration of
vegetable seeds by stone dust which was packed in some parts of the world particularly in Europe.
 Seed testing has been developed to aid agriculture to avoid some of the hazards of crop production by furnishing the needed
information about different quality attributes viz., purity, moisture, germination, vigour and health.
 Quality control of seed depends on the different seed testing protocols which determine the genuineness of the cultivar.
 Testing of seed to evaluate the planting value and the authenticity of the certified lot.
 Seed testing is required to assess the seed quality attributes of the seed lots which have to be offered for sale.
 These quality attributes are seed moisture content, germination and vigour, physical and genetic purity, freedom from seed
borne diseases and insect infestation. In India, seed testing is done mainly for moisture, germination and physical purity of
seeds.
 Standard seed testing procedures for the evaluation of the seeds were developed by ISTA. It is obligatory on the part of the
seed analyst to follow rules prescribed by 1STA (1STA, 1985) if the seed is moving to the International trade.
 The seed testing procedures which are described below are based mostly on the international rules because most of our rules
(Chalam et al.. 1967) are based on, 1STA, 1996. Economic yield of a crop depends on the quality of seeds which can be
evaluated by seed testing (1STA, 1996).
 The testing of seed quality is carried out on seed samples drawn from seed lot to be used for cultivation. The quantity of seed
sample taken for testing in laboratory is minute compared to that of seed lot it represents.

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Role of Seed Testing Laboratories

Seed testing laboratories are essential organization in seed certification and seed quality control programmes. The main objective is to
serve the producer, the consumer and the seed industry by providing information on seed quality. Test results may cause rejection of
poor seed multiplication or low grade seed in a count of law.

Analysis of seed in the laboratory: Seed testing is possible for all those who produce, sell and use seeds.Seed testing is highly
specialized and technical job. With a view to maintain uniformity in quality control the seed analysis laboratory includes for distinct
sections.

1. Purity analysis of seed lot is considered under two factors

Section for purity testing:
a) Testing the cleanliness of seed lot and
b) Testing the geneuiness of the cultivar
2. Section for moisture testing
3. Section for viability, germination and section for vigour testing.

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Sampling in Seed Testing Laboratory

The seed samples received in the laboratory (submitted sample) are required to be
reduced to obtain working samples for carrying out various tests. A number of methods are
available for obtaining working samples.
Mixing and dividing of seeds

The main objective of mixing and dividing of seeds is to obtain the representative
homogenous seed sample for analysis by reducing the submitted sample to the desired
size of working sample.

Method of mixing and dividing

 Mechanical dividing Model seed samples received from

 Modified halving method producer
 Hand halving method
 Random cup method
 Spoon method

Mechanical method

The reduction of sample size is carried out by the mechanical dividers suitable for all seeds except for chaffy and fuzzy seeds.

Objective of mechanical dividing

 To mix the seed sample and make homogenous as far as possible. To reduce the seed sample to the required size without
any bias.
 The submitted sample can be thoroughly mixed by passing it through the divider to get 2 parts and passing the whole sample
second time and 3rd time if necessary to make the seeds mixed and blended so as to get homogenous seed sample when the
same seeds are passed through it into approximately equal parts.
 The sample is reduced to desired size by passing the seeds through the dividers repeatedly with one half remain at each
occasion.

Types of mechanical dividers

 Boerner divider

It consists of a hopper, a cone and series of baffles directing the seeds into 2 spouts. The baffles are of equal size
and equally spaced and every alternate one leading to one spout. They are arranged in circle and are directed inward.
A valve at the base of the hopper retains the seeds in the hopper. When the valve is opened, the seeds fall by gravity
over the cone where it is equally distributed and approximately equal quantity of seeds will be collected in each spout.
A disadvantage of this divider is that it is difficult to check for cleanliness.

Soil divider

It is a sample divider built on the same principles as the Boerner divider. Here the channels are
arranged in a straight row. It consists of a hopper with attached channels, a frame work to hold the
hopper, two receiving pans and a pouring pan. It is suitable for large seeds and chaffy seeds.

Centrifugal or Gamet divider

The principle involved is the centrifugal force which is used for mixing and dividing the seeds. The
seeds fall on a shallow rubber spinner which on rotation by an electric motor, throw out the seeds by
centrifugal force. The circle or the area where the seeds fall is equally divided into two parts by a
stationary baffle so that approximately equal quantities of seed will fall in each spout.

Random cup method

This is the method suitable for seeds requiring working sample upto 10 grams provided that they are not extremely chaffy and do not
bounce or roll (e.g.) Brassica spp. Six to eight small cups are placed at random on a tray. After a preliminary mixing the seed is poured
uniformly over the tray. The seeds that fall into the cup is taken as the working sample.

Modified halving method

The apparatus consists of a tray into which is fitted a grid of equal sized cubical cups open at the top and every alternate one having no
bottom. After preliminary mixing the seed is poured evenly over the grid. When the grid is lifted, approximately half the sample remains
on the tray. The submitted sample is successively halved in this method until a working sample size is obtained.

Spoon method

This is suitable for samples of single small seeded species. A tray, spatula and a spoon with a straight edge are required. After
preliminary mixing, the seed is poured evenly over the tray. The tray should not be shaked thereafter. With the spoon in one hand, the
spatula in the other and using both small portions of seed from not less than 5 random places on the tray should be removed. Sufficient
portions of seed are taken to estimate a working sample approximately but not less than the required size.

Hand halving method

This method is restricted to the chaffy seeds. The seed is poured evenly on to a smooth clean surface and thoroughly mixed into a
mound. The mound is then divided into 1/2 and each half is mound again and halved into 4 portions. Each of the 4 portions is halved
again giving 8 portions. The halved portions are arranged in rows and alternate portions are combined and retained. The process is
repeated until the sample of required weight is obtained.
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Physical Purity

Purity analysis

The purity analysis of a seed sample in the seed testing laboratory refers to the determination of the different components of the
purity viz., pure seeds, other crop seeds, weed seeds and inert matter.

Objective

The objective of the purity analysis is to determine whether the submitted sample conforms to the prescribed physical quality standards
with regard to physical components.

Method

The working sample

The purity analysis is done on the working sample of prescribed weight drawn from submitted sample. The analysis may be made on
one working sample of the prescribed weight or on two sub-samples of atleast half of this weight, each independently drawn.

Weighing the working sample

The number of decimal places to which the working sample and the componenets of the working sample should be weighed is given
below.

Weight of the working The number of decimal places

Example
sample (g) required
<1 4 0.7534
1-9.999 3 7.534
10-99.99 2 75.34
100-999.9 1 753.4
1000 or more 0 7534

Purity separation

The working sample after weighing is separated into its components viz., pure seed, other seed crop, weed seed and inert matter.

Pure seed

The seeds of kind / species stated by the sender. It includes all botanical varieties of that kind / species. Immature, undersized,
shrivelled, diseased or germinated seeds are also pure seeds. It also includes broken seeds, if the size is >1/2 of the original size
except in leguminacea, and cruciferae where the seed coat entirely removed are regarded as inert matter.

Other crop seed

It refers to the seeds of crops other than the kind being examined.

Weed Seed

It includes seeds of those species normally recognized as weeds or specified under Seed Act as a noxious weed.

Inert matter

It includes seed like structures, stem pieces, leaves, sand particles, stone particles, empty glumes, lemmas, paleas, chaff, awns, stalks
longer than florets and spikelets.
Method of purity separation

Place the sample on the purity work board after sieving / blowing operations and separate into other crop seeds and inert matter. After
separation, identify each kind of weed seeds, other crop seeds as to genus and species. The names and number of each are recorded.
The type of inert matter present should also be noted.

Purity Work Board

Seed Blower

Calculation

All the four components must be weighed to the required number of decimal places. The percentages of the components are
determined as follows.
Weight of individual component
% of components = __________________________ X 100
Total weight of all components
If there is a gain or loss between the weight of the original samples and the sum of all the components is in excess of one percent,
another analysis should be made.

Duplicate tests

If the analysis result is near the border line in relation to the seed standards, one more test is done and the average is reported.
However, if a duplicate analysis is made of two half sample or whole samples, the difference between the two must not exceed the
permissible tolerance. If the difference is in excess of the tolerance, analyze further (but not more than 4 pairs in all) until a pair is
obtained which has its member within tolerance.

Purity analysis in groundnut

It should be carried out on pods and the size of working sample is 1000.

Determination of huskless seeds

It is required in certain crops like sunflower and paddy. 400 seeds taken from the pure seed and the number of seeds without husk are
counted (partly huskless seeds are excluded) and the % is calculated as

Number of huskless seeds

% of huskless seeds = ________________________ X100
 400

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Seed germination test

Germination is defined as the emergence and development from the seed embryo, of those essential structures, for the kind of seed in
question, indicates its ability to produce a normal plant under favourable conditions.

Principles

Germination tests shall be conducted with a pure seed fraction. A minimum of 400 seeds are required in four replicates of 100 seeds
each or 8 replicates of 50 seeds each or 16 replicates of 25 seeds each depending on the size of seed and size of containers of
substrate.

The test is conducted under favourable conditions of moisture, temperature, suitable substratum and light if necessary. No pretreatment
to the seed is given except for those recommended by ISTA.

Materials required
Substratum

The substratum serves as moisture reservoir and provides a surface or medium for which the seeds can germinate and the seedlings
grow. The commonly used substrate are sand, germination paper and soil.

1. Sand

Size of sand particle

Sand particles should not be too large or too small. The sand particles should pass through 0.80 mm sieve and retained by 0.05mm
sieve.

Toxicity

Sand should not have any toxic material or any pathogen. If there is presence of any pathogen found then the sand should be sterilized
in an autoclave.

Germination tray

When we use the sand, germination trays are used to carry out the test. The normal size of the tray is 22.5 x 22.5 x 4 cm. The tray may
either zinc or stainless steel.

Germination tray
Method of seed placement

Seed in sand(S)

Seeds are planted in a uniform layer of moist sand and then covered to a depth of 1 to 2 cm with sand.

Sand method

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Top of sand (TS)

Seeds are pressed in to the surface of the sand.

Spacing

We must give equal spacing on all sides to facilitate normal growth of seedling and to avoid entangling of seed and spread of disease.
Spacing should be 1-5 times the width or diameter of the seed.

Water

The amount of water to be added to the sand will depend on size of the seed. For cereals, except maize, the sand can be moistened to
50% of its water holding capacity. For large seeded legumes and maize sand is moistened to 60% water holding capacity.

2. Paper

Most widely used paper substrates are filter paper, blotter or towel (kraft paper). It should have capillary movement of water, at vertical
direction (30 mm rise / min.). It should be free from toxic substances and free from fungi or bacteria. It should hold sufficient moisture
during the period of test. The texture should be such that the roots of germinating seedlings will grow on and not into the paper.

Methods

Top of paper (TP)

Seeds are placed on one or more layers of moist filter paper or blotter paper in petriplates. These petriplates are covered with lid and
placed inside the germination cabinet. This is suitable for those seeds which require light.

Petriplate method
Between paper (BP)

The seeds are germinated between two layers of paper. The seeds are placed between two layers of paper and rolled in towels. The
rolled towels are placed in the germinator in an upright position.

Germination paper Seeds germinated on paper Roll towel method

First count Final count

Crop Substratum Temp (°C) Pre-treatment
days days
Preheat (50°C) soak in
Paddy BP,TP,S 20-30 5 14
H2O or HNO3 24hrs
Maize BP,S 20-30 4 7 -
0.2%KNO3(2-3hrs) pre
Bajra TP,BP 20-30 3 7
chill
Sorghum TP,BP 20-30 4 10 -
Redgram BP,S 20-30 4 6 -
Black gram BP,S 30 4 7 -
Green gram BP,S 20-30 5 8 -
Bengal gram BP,S 20-30 5 8 -
Cowpea BP,S 20-30 5 8 -
Peas BP,S 20 5 8 -
Castor BP,S 20 7 14
Groundnut BP,S 20-30 5 10 -
Sunflower BP,S 20-30 4 10 -
Sesame TP 20-30 3 6 -
Cotton BP,S 20-30 4 12 Remove shells
Brinjal TP,BP 20-30 7 14 Ethrel (25ppm) 48hrs
Tomato TP,BP 20-30 5 14 -
Chillies TP,BP 20-30 7 14 Hot water 85°C 1min.
Bhendi BP,S 20-30 4 21 -
Onion TP,BP 15-20 6 21 KNO3
Carrot TP,BP 20-30 7 14 KNO3
Radish TP,BP 20-30 4 10 Pre chill
Cauliflower TP 20-30 5 10 Pre chill, KNO3
Ashgourd S 30-35 5 14 -
Bitter gourd BP,S 20-30 4 14 -
Bottle gourd BP,S 20-30 4 14 -

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Germination apparatus

Germination cabinet / Germination room

This is called chamber where in temperature and relative humidity are controlled. We can maintain the temperature, relative humidity
and light required for different crops.
Room germinator

It works with same principle as that of germinator. This is a modified chamber of larger one and the worker can enter into it and
evaluate the seedlings. Provisions are made to maintain the temperature and relative humidity. This is used widely in practice.

Seed germinator Plant Growth Chamber

Seed counting board

This is used for accurate counting and spacing of seeds. This consists of 2 plates. The
basal one is stationary and top one is movable. Both top and basal plates are having
uniform number of holes viz., 50/100, when the plates are in different position.

After taking the sample, the top plate is pulled in such a way that the holes are in one
line so that the fixed number of seeds falls on the substratum.

Seed Counting Board

Vacuum seed counter

Consists of a head, pipe and wall. There are plates of 50 or 100 holes which can be
fitted to the head.

When vacuum is created the plate absorbs seeds and once the vacuum is released the
seeds fall on the substrate.
Vacuum seed counter
Impression board

Made of plastic / wood with 50 or 100 holes / pins. Here the knobs are arranged in
equal length and space. By giving impression on the sand it makes uniform depth and
spacing for seed.

Impression board

Evaluation of germination test

The germination test is evaluated as

 Normal seedlings
 Abnormal seedlings
 Hard seeds
 Fresh and ungerminated seeds
  Dead seeds

ISTA classified the seedlings into different categories based on the development of essential structures.

Normal seedlings

Seedlings which has the capacity for continued development into normal plant when grown in favourable conditions of soil, water,
temperature and light.

Characters of normal seedlings

 A well developed root system with primary root except in certain species of graminae
which normally produce seminal root or secondary root.
 A well developed shoot axis consisting of elongated hypocotyls in seedlings of epigeal
germination.
 A well developed epicotyl in seedlings of hypogeal germination.
 One cotyledon in monocotyledon and two in dicotyledons.
 A well developed coleoptiles in graminae containing a green leaf.
 A well developed plumule in dicotyledons.

Normal seedlings

 Seedlings with following slight defects are also taken as normal seedlings.
 Primary root with limited damage but well developed secondary roots in leguminaceae
(Phaseolus, Pisum), graminae (Maize), cucurbitaceae (Cucumis) and malvaceae (cotton)
 Seedlings with limited damage or decay to essential structures but no damage to
conducting tissue.
 Seedlings which are decayed by a pathogen with a clear evidence that the parent seed is
not the source of infection.
 Abnormal seedlings

Seedlings which do not show the capacity for continued development into normal plant when
grown in favourable condition of soil, water, temperature and light.

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Types of abnormal seedlings

Damaged seedlings

Seedligs with any one of the essential structures missing or badly damaged so that the balanced
growth is not expected.

Seedlings with no cotyledons, with splits, cracks and lesions or essential structures and without
primary root.
Damaged seedlings
Deformed seedlings

Weak or unbalanced development of essential structures such as spirally twisted or stunted plumule
or hypocotyls or epicotyls, swollen shoot, stunted roots etc.

Twisted coleoptiles
Decayed seedlings

Seedlings with any one of the essential structures showing diseased or decayed symptoms as a
result of primary infection from the seed which prevents the development of the seedlings.

Decayed Seedlings
Hard seeds

Seeds which do not absorb moisture till the end of the test period and remain hard (e.g.) seed of
leguminaceae and malvaceae

Hard Seeds
Fresh and ungerminated seeds

Seeds which are neither hard nor have germinated but remain firm and apparently viable at the end
of the test period.

Dead Seeds
Seeds at the end of the test period are neither hard or nor fresh or have produced any part of a
seedling. Often dead seeds collapse and milky paste comes out when pressed at the end of the test.

Dead seeds

Retesting

If the results of a test are considered unsatisfactory it will not be reported and a second test will be made by the same method or by
alternative method under the following circumstances.

1. Replicates performance is out of tolerance

2. Results being inaccurate due to wrong evaluating of seedlings or counting or errors in test conditions
3. Dormancy persistence or phytotoxicity or spread of fungi or bacteria. The average of the two test shall be reported.

Use of tolerances

The result of a germination test can be relied upon only if the difference between the highest and the lowest replicates is within
accepted tolerances.

To decide if two test results of the same sample are compatible again the tolerance table is used.

Reporting results
The result of the germination test is calculated as the average of 4x100 seed replicates. It is expressed as percentage by number of
normal seedlings. The percentage is calculated to the nearest whole number. The percentage of abnormal seedlings, hard, fresh and
dead seeds is calculated in the same way. These should be entered on the analysis of certificate under appropriate space. If the result
is 'nil' for any of these categories it shall be reported as ‘0’.

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Determination of moisture content

Objective

To determine the moisture content of seeds by methods suitable for routine use.

Definition

The moisture content of a seed sample is the loss in weight when it is dried. It is expressed as a percentage of the weight of the original
sample. It is one of the most important factors in the maintenance of seed quality.

Method of moisture determination

1. Air oven method

In this method, seed moisture is removed by drying the seed sample at a specified temperature for a specified duration.

2. Moisture meters

Moisture meters estimate seed moisture quickly but the estimation is not as precise as by the air oven method.

Weight of the submitted sample

100 g for species that have to be ground. 50 g for all other species. The sample should be submitted in polythene bag of 700 gauge.

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Air oven method for seed moisture estimation

Materials required

Grinding mill

It should be constructed of non-absorbent material. It should grind evenly and should be operated
at such a speed that during grinding, it should not cause heating of the ground material. Air
currents that might cause loss of moisture must be reduced to a minimum. The fineness of
grinding should be adjustable.

Container

Container of glass or non-corrosive metal (e.g.) stainless steel should be used.

Grinding mill
Oven

A good quality electric air oven with a thermostatic electronic temperature control for maintaining
temperature within ±1°C is required.

Desiccator, Analytical balance, Sieves. A set of wire mesh sieves with meshes of 0.5 mm, 1.0
mm and 4.0 mm.

Desiccators Balance Sieves

Grinding

For some seeds (e.g. Cereals and Cotton) fine grinding is essential before the moisture content is determined. In such cases, at least
50% of the ground material should pass through a wire sieve with meshes of 0.5 mm and not more than 10% remain on a wire sieve
with a mesh of 1.0 mm. For leguminous seeds, coarse grinding is recommended; at least 50% of the ground material shall pass through
a wire sieve with meshes of 4.0 mm.

Pre drying

If the species is one for which grinding is necessary and the moisture content is more than 17%. (or 10% in the case of soy bean and
13% in rice) pre drying before grinding is necessary. For this purpose, two 50 g portions are weighed and placed on open trays at
130°C for 5-10 min. If seed moisture content is about 25% or more it should be pre-dried at 70° C for 2-5 hours, depending on the initial
water content. The pre dried seeds should be kept in a closed desiccator for cooling. Then each of the duplicate quantities is weighed
separately and about 20 g is ground. The ground material is then subjected to moisture testing using a hot air-oven as described below.

Moisture estimation

It should be carried out in duplicate on two independently drawn 5-10 g working samples, weighed with an accuracy of 1 mg. Most
species are dried for 1 hr at 130° C, cereals for 2 hours (130°C) and maize for 4 hours (130°C). Seeds containing high percentage of oil
should be dried at 103°C for 17 hours.

Predrying necessary
Crop Grinding Drying temp °C Drying time (hrs.) above the moisture
Content %.
Paddy FG 130 2 13
Ragi - 103 17 -
Maize FG 130 4 17
Cumbu FG 130 1 17
Sorghum FG 130 2 17
Blackgram FG 130 1 17
Greengram FG 130 1 17
Cowpea C.G 130 1 17
Redgram C.G 130 1 17
Castor C.G 130 17 17
 Groundnut C.G 103 17 17
Sesame - 103 17 17
Soybean C.G 103 17 -
Sunflower - 102 17 17
Cotton
FG 103 17 -
(delinted)
Ash gourd C.G 130 1 17
Other gourds - 130 1 17
Brinjal &
- 103 17 -
Chillies
Bhendi C.G 130 17 -
Tomato - 130 1 -
Cabbage - 130 17 -

F.G. : Fine grinding ; C.G. : Coarse grinding

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Steps

1. Empty container along with its cover should be weighed

2. The submitted sample should be mixed thoroughly and two small portions or seed sample are to be drawn and it should be
ground as per the requirements.
3. Then fill the container with 5 grams of ground sample and weigh it.
4. After weighing, remove the cover or lid of the container and the open container should be kept in the oven which has already
been heated to the prescribed drying temperature.
5. At the end of the drying period, container should be closed with its cover or lid. The container should be transferred into a
Desiccator. The Desiccator should be closed and the sample should be allowed to cool for 30 minutes.
6. The sample should be weighed again and the moisture content may be calculated to one decimal place by the following
formula.

m2-m3
m = _________ x 100
m2-m1

Where, m = Seed moisture content

m1 = Weight of the empty container with its cover
m2= Weight of the container with its cover and seeds before drying
m3 = Weight of the container with its cover and seeds after drying
The duplicate result of the determination may not differ by more than 0.2% otherwise the analysis should be repeated.
If pre dried, the moisture content is calculated from the results obtained in the first (pre-drying) and second stages of the procedure. IfSI
is the moisture lost in the first stage and S2 is the moisture lost in the second stage, each calculated as above and expressed as a
percentage, the original moisture content of the sample is calculated as below.

S1 x S2
m= S1 + S2 - _________
100
m= moisture content
S1 =Moisture percentage lost in predrying stage
S2= Moisture percentage lost in drying stage
Moisture meters: Universal (OSAW) digital moisture meters
The principle involved in these moisture meters is that wet grains are good conductors while dry
grains are less conductors of electricity. So, the moisture content is directly proportional to the
electrical conductivity of the seed.

It consists of a compression unit to compress the sample to pre -determined thickness. The
thickness setting is very easily read on a vertical and circular scale. The seed material on test is
taken in a test cup and is compressed. Then press the push type switch till the reading comes in
the display. Here no temperature reading and correlated dial are required. The computer version
of digital moisture meter automatically compensate for temperature corrections.

Seed standards for moisture content

Crop Type of storage FS (% max) CS (% max)

Paddy Open storage 13.0 13.0
Vapour proof 8.0 8.0
Maize Open storage 12.0 12.0
Vapour proof 8.0 8.0
Sorghum,cumbu&ragi Open storage 12.0 12.0
Vapour proof 8.0 8.0
Black gram Open storage 9.0 9.0
Vapour proof 8.0 8.0
Groundnut Open storage 9.0 9.0
Vapour proof 5.0 5.0
Sesame Open storage 9.0 9.0
Vapour proof 5.0 5.0
Soybean Open storage 12.0 12.0
Vapour proof 7.0 7.0
Sunflower Open storage 9.0 9.0
Vapour proof 7.0 7.0
Castor Open storage 8.0 8.0
Vapour proof 5.0 5.0
Cotton Open storage 10.0 10.0
Vapour proof 6.0 6.0
Cucurbits Open storage 7.0 7.0
Vapour proof 6.0 6.0
Brinjal & Chillies Open storage 8.0 8.0
Vapour proof 6.0 6.0
Bhendi Open storage 10.0 10.0
Vapour proof 8.0 8.0
Tomato Open storage 8.0 8.0
Vapour proof 6.0 6.0
Cabbage&cauliflower Open storage 7.0 7.0
Vapour proof 5.0 5.0
Onion Open storage 8.0 8.0
Vapour proof 6.0 6.0
Carrot Open storage 8.0 8.0
Vapour proof 7.0 7.0
Beet root Open storage 9.0 9.0
Vapour proof 8.0 8.0
Radish Open storage 6.0 6.0
 Vapour proof 5.0 5.0

WHAT ARE THE METHODS OF SEED TESTING

Categories: GROWING, CORN
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 Germination testing is required by law and is a good indication of the plant-producing potential of a
seed lot under normal conditions.
 The seed vigor test represents the seed’s ability to develop a normal seedling under stressful
environmental conditions
 There is not a standardized seed vigor test across the seed industry. Inconsistent lab vigor testing
procedures make it difficult to compare results across labs.

There is strong agronomic value in a perfect corn stand emerging evenly over a 24 to 48-hour window. Having
the confidence that your seed is of the highest possible quality to achieve this goal is equally important. This
article will review current industry and Golden Harvest® seed quality testing standards. Interpretation of
independent seed lab test results will also be explored.

Seed testing is important to ensure that only the best quality seed lots are allowed into the marketplace.
Testing provides assurance to the farmers using the products. Golden Harvest has seed testing protocols and
product specifications to ensure the products shipped to customers meet or exceed these expectations.

Standard Industry Seed Quality Testing

Multiple seed quality tests are required by the Federal Seed Act and individual state seed laws to be carried
out and reported on seed bag tags. Germination and physical purity are both required to be visible on bag tags.
Genetic purity testing ensures genetic purity and trait purity expression are meeting product specifications.
Genetic purity results of less than 95% require bag tag labeling to be referred to as a blend.

Germination is measured using a warm germination test, which is a standardized process adopted across the
seed industry. Germination determines the plant producing potential of a seed lot. The germination capacity of
a seed lot is expressed as the percentage of normal seedlings developed under favorable laboratory
conditions. Germination test results are highly consistent across certified seed testing labs.

The Association of Official Seed Analysts (AOSA) Rules for Testing Seed define the germination testing
procedure that all seed providers are required to follow. Warm germination results are an essential measure of
seed quality. However, they do not predict how seeds will emerge under stressful field conditions.

Golden Harvest Proprietary Seed Vigor Testing

Seed vigor tests are commonly used by seed providers and 3rd party seed testing labs to better understand
the seed’s ability to germinate and grow normally under stressful soil conditions. Vigor testing is not required
by federal or state laws, although it is routinely used across the seed industry to ensure the best quality seed
for customers.
Due to lack of legal requirements, vigor testing procedures are at the discretion of the seed supplier. Although
the importance of predicting consistent emerging products to ensure a good customer experience has made
vigor tests more common. Seed providers are developing proprietary testing methods to deliver the highest
quality seed possible. Multiple vigor tests are utilized across the seed industry. However, lack of a universal
testing procedure makes it difficult to compare results across labs.
 In addition to warm germination, Golden Harvest utilizes proprietary vigor tests to
quantify seed vigor. In 2019, Golden Harvest introduced a novel approach to seed vigor testing. Although a
vigor test cannot mimic every potential combination of environmental factors affecting field emergence, this
new method is designed to mimic the imbibitional chilling stress seeds face in less than ideal field situations
(Figure 2). This test is helping differentiate at both a genetic and physiological level, helping provide customers
with seed lots at or above industry and independent lab seed quality standards. The Golden Harvest Vigor Test
protocol was validated in actual field emergence trials and compared with 3rd party vigor tests before finalized.
The Golden Harvest Vigor Test continues to be validated yearly through lab testing and against field
emergence to ensure the most current and relevant testing procedures are being used.

Low and High Seed Vigor Lab Testing Samples

The warm germination test and Golden Harvest Vigor Test are just two examples of the many tools Golden
Harvest utilizes in its quality assurance program to evaluate seed quality. Golden Harvest conducts seed
quality testing continuously and endeavors to provide its customers with quality seed. Development of the
Golden Harvest Vigor Test is one of various technological improvements that Golden Harvest is implementing
into the new state of the art Quality Control Laboratory located in Slater, Iowa. Ultimately, Golden Harvest
stands behind every unit of seed to be of the best quality.

 Improper seed sampling procedure.

o Seed tests are only as good as the sample submitted. It is critical to pull a representative seed
core sample from throughout the entire shipping container.
 Comparing results across different 3rd party labs.
 o Not all vigor tests are equal.
 Vigor testing procedure not calibrated for genetic families.
o Not all genetics react the same to all vigor tests. Some genetics will always score lower or
higher than if a different vigor test were used. Most major companies use proprietary tests they
have validated against their genetics and field data to correct for this, whereas most 3rd party
labs do not have this capability.
 Non-accredited seed lab performing test.
o Labs not following AOSA Rules for Testing Seed or operating without oversight of an accredited
analyst (Registered Seed Technologist or Certified Seed Analyst) are less likely to deliver
consistent results.

Photos are either the property of Syngenta or used under agreement.

Syngenta hereby disclaims liability for third-party websites

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ABOU

Seed testing is important for several reasons, primarily related to ensuring the quality and viability of
seeds used in agriculture and horticulture. Here are some key reasons why seed testing is crucial:

1. Quality Assurance: Seed testing helps verify the quality of seeds. High-quality seeds are essential for
achieving optimal crop yields and ensuring the success of agricultural and horticultural practices.
2. Germination Rate: One of the primary aspects of seed testing is assessing the germination rate.
Knowing how many seeds will successfully sprout and grow into healthy plants is crucial for farmers
and gardeners to plan their planting and seeding rates accurately.
3. Purity: Seed testing checks for the presence of foreign matter, such as weed seeds, other crop seeds,
or contaminants. Ensuring seed purity helps prevent the introduction of unwanted plants into a field
or garden.
4. Genetic Identity: Seed testing can confirm the genetic identity of a seed variety. This is essential for
maintaining the genetic purity of crops and ensuring that farmers are planting the desired cultivars.
5. Viability: Seed viability testing determines whether seeds are still capable of germination. It is vital to
assess seed viability before planting to avoid wasting time and resources on nonviable seeds.
6. Seed Health: Seed testing can also detect diseases and pathogens present in the seeds. This
information allows for the early identification of potential plant health issues and helps prevent the
spread of diseases in agricultural and horticultural systems.
7. Regulatory Compliance: Many countries have regulations governing the sale and distribution of seeds.
Seed testing helps ensure that seeds meet the quality and purity standards set by regulatory
authorities, which is essential for trade and commerce.
8. Research and Development: In research and breeding programs, seed testing is crucial for evaluating
the performance of new cultivars and genetic lines. It provides valuable data on traits like germination
rates, seedling vigor, and disease resistance.
9. Cost-Effective Farming: By knowing the quality and viability of their seeds, farmers can optimize their
seed selection and planting practices, ultimately leading to more cost-effective and efficient farming
operations.
10. Environmental Impact: Proper seed testing can help prevent the accidental introduction of invasive
species or genetically modified organisms (GMOs) into new environments, reducing potential
negative ecological impacts.

In summary, seed testing is vital for ensuring that seeds used in agriculture and horticulture meet
quality standards, are genetically pure, and have the potential for high germination rates. It plays a
significant role in improving crop yields, reducing waste, and supporting sustainable farming
practices.