C. Wave data recorded by a buoy 400 m deep is listed below.

It is required to

1. Calculate Hs and Hrms

2. Calculate the probability of exceedance of 3.5 m wave
3. Calculate the probability of occurrence of waves of height not higher than 4.5m and 2
m
4. Calculate the probability of occurrence of waves that have a height of 5 m

Wave 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Height 2.3 4.6 3.6 1.2 3.5 2.7 1.9 1.3 4.5 1.6 1.2 3.2
Solution

1. Calculate Hs and Hrms

𝐻𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑒𝑠𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑡ℎ𝑖𝑟𝑑 4.6 + 4.5 + 3.6 + 3.5

𝐻𝑠 = 𝐻1⁄ = = = 4.05 𝑚
3 𝑡ℎ𝑒𝑟𝑒 𝑛𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 4

∑ 𝐻𝑖2 2.32 + 4.62 + 3.62 + 1.22 + 3.52 + 2.72 + 1.92 + 1.32 + 4.52 + 1.62 + 1.22 + 3.22
𝐻𝑟𝑚𝑠 =√ = √
𝑁 12

= 2.89 𝑚

2. Calculate the probability of exceedance of 3.5 m wave

𝐻2 3.52
𝑞(𝐻 > 3.5𝑚) = exp (− 2
) = exp (− ) = 0.23 = 23%
𝐻𝑟𝑚𝑠 2.892

3. Calculate the probability of occurrence of waves of height not higher than 4.5m and 2
m

𝐻2 4.52
𝑃(𝐻 < 4.5 𝑚) = 1 − exp (− ) = 1 − 𝑒𝑥𝑝 (− ) = 0.911 = 91.1%
𝐻2𝑟𝑚𝑠 2.892

𝐻2 22
𝑃(𝐻 < 2 𝑚) = 1 − exp (− ) = 1 − 𝑒𝑥𝑝 (− ) = 0.38 = 38%
𝐻2𝑟𝑚𝑠 2.892

4. Calculate the probability of occurrence of waves that have a height of 5 m

2𝐻 𝐻2 2∗5 52
𝑝(𝐻 = 5𝑚) = 2 𝑒𝑥𝑝 (− 2 ) = 𝑒𝑥𝑝 (− ) = 0.06 = 6%
𝐻𝑟𝑚𝑠 𝐻𝑟𝑚𝑠 2.892 2.892
D. For a specific sea state, the wave frequency spectrum obtained from a buoy is given as
follow

F (HZ) 0.04 0.05 0.07 0.09 0.1 0.12 0.17 0.25

S (f) m2.s 0 6.5 x 9 14 5 2.5 0
If the sea state consist of 1000 wave and the maximum wave height is 8m, it is required to:

1. Significant wave height and spectral density (x)

2. Peak wave period and estimate the mean wave period
3. Root mean square wave height and average wave height
4. Find the maximum wave height for 1500 wave sea state
5. The wave height exceeded only by 4% of the wave
6. The probability of occurrence of waves with height equal to or less than 3.5m and 0.8
m

Solution

1. Significant wave height and spectral density (x)

𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 , 1000 8
= 1.934 ∴ = 1.934 𝑠𝑜 𝐻𝑠 = 4.1365 𝑚
𝐻𝑠 𝐻𝑠

𝐻𝑠 = 𝐻𝑚𝑜 = 4.004√𝑚𝑜 = 4.1365 ∴ 𝑚𝑜 = 1.067

= 0.5(0 + 6.5)(0.05 − 0.04) + 0.5(6.5 + 𝑥)(0.07 − 0.05) + 0.5(𝑥 + 9)(0.09 − 0.07)
+ 0.5(9 + 14)(0.1 − 0.09) + 0.5(14 + 5)(0.12 − 0.1) + 0.5(5 + 2.5)(0.17 − 0.12)
+ 0.5(2.5 + 0)(0.25 − 0.17)

∴ 𝑋 = 14.35

2. Peak wave period and estimate the mean wave period

1 1
𝑓𝑃 = 0.07 ∴ 𝑇𝑃 = = = 14.285 sec ∴ 𝑇𝑚 = 0.82 ∗ 14.285 = 11.713 𝑠𝑒𝑐
𝑓𝑝 0.07

3. Root mean square wave height and average wave height

𝐻𝑠 = √2𝐻𝑟𝑚𝑠 ∴ 𝐻𝑟𝑚𝑠 = 2.924 𝑚

𝐻𝑠 = 1.6 𝐻𝑚𝑒𝑎𝑛 ∴ 𝐻𝑚𝑒𝑎𝑛 = 2.585 𝑚

4. Find the maximum wave height for 1500 wave sea state

𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 , 1000 𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 , 2000 𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 , 1500

= 1.934& = 2.022 ∴ = 1.978 ∴ 𝐻𝑚𝑎𝑥 = 8.182 𝑚
𝐻𝑠 𝐻𝑠 4.1365

5. The wave height exceeded only by 4% of the wave

𝐻2 𝐻2
𝑞(𝐻 > 𝐻𝑖 𝑚) = exp (− 2
) = exp (− ) = 0.04 = 4% ∴ 𝐻 = 5.24 𝑚
𝐻𝑟𝑚𝑠 2.9242

6. The probability of occurrence of waves with height equal to or less than 3.5m and 0.8 m

𝐻2 3.52
𝑃(𝐻 < 3.5 𝑚) = 1 − exp (− ) = 1 − 𝑒𝑥𝑝 (− ) = 0.761 = 76.1%
𝐻2𝑟𝑚𝑠 2.9242

𝐻2 0.82
𝑃(𝐻 < 0.8 𝑚) = 1 − exp (− ) = 1 − 𝑒𝑥𝑝 (− ) = 0.072 = 7.21%
𝐻2𝑟𝑚𝑠 2.9242