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Spatial prediction of Wave Height using SWAN method in Java Sea

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 Spatial prediction of Wave Height using SWAN method in Java Sea

SYAMSUL Arifin1, AULIA Siti Aisjah2, ANDRI Atmoko3

1
Departement of Engineering Physics, ITS, Surabaya
2
Departement of Engineering Physics, ITS, Surabaya
4
Polytechnic of Naval Engineering, Surabaya
E-Mail:syamp3ai@its.ac.id; 1; auliasa20@gmail.com

ABSTRACT
Marine transportation security in Indonesia is dependent on the weather conditions. Some cases of sea
accidents caused by high sea waves. The government's efforts in providing information and prediction of
maritim weather has been carried out by the Meteorology and Geophysics - BMKG. Resolution of the
information BMKG is 50 km. In an effort to predict ocean waves within a smaller radius, is done by using
spatial forecasting methods. SWAN method as one method for spatial prediction. SWAN as an
appropriate model for shallow sea and to the waters covered. In this study the modification of the model
for forecasting SWAN to fit in Indonesian waters in the area of the Java Sea to Sulawesi Sea. Conducted
a computer simulation modeling, with two scenarios. The first scenario by using the input to the model is
the wind speed in 4 directions. The second scenario is done by providing input of model according to the
characteristics of the wind Moonson. For the case in the waters of the Java Sea shows RMSE is 0.15 up to
0.35 m. and RMSE for the direction the wave is 31.3 to 33.1o.
Keywords: SWAN Modification; Spatial; Temporal; Java Sea; Wave; Wind Speed; Wind Direction

INTRODUCTION
Several studies in the world of spatial prediction using statistical methods, one of which is the
significant wave height prediction research using trigonometric point cumulative semivariogram
(TPCSV) and Kriging interpolation to get data assimilation height of wave [1, 2]. SWAN is a sea wave
numerical method developed by Delft University of Technology. This model is the development model
used previously (WAM and Wavewatch III), able to model of propagation of sea waves in shallow and
closed water [3].
Applications of SWAN was used to evaluate the spatial distribution of wave energy in the Azores
islands, estimating the wave energy along the Caspian Sea, evaluate the pattern of wave energy around
the island of Madeira [2-6]. Saket research investigating wave energy along the northern coast of the Gulf
of Oman [7]. Kim conducted an assessment of the Korean Peninsula between the wave source produces
monthly estimates of wave energy [8]. Iglesias uses data SIMAR-44 that simulated the SWAN models to
estimate the potential of wave energy along the Dead Sea and Estaca de Bares in Spain [9].
.
SWAN accuracy has been tested in several other studies, by comparing the results of measurements
SWAN "waverider buoy" and calculations using the wave model MIKE 21 on the north coast Frissian
Germany. From this comparison SWAN models provide the high accurate [10]. It has done compared the
parameter SWAN wave model results with measurements of "ACDP sensor buoy" in the west coast of
Portugal. The results obtained demonstrate conformity with the degree of difference is still acceptable
[11]. This study aimed to analyze the spatial characteristics of the waves in the Java Sea by using
numerical methods SWAN. Analysis performed in this study include the direction of wave propagation
and the significant wave height. Wind speed in the Java Sea waters show a very strong correlation to the
height of the wave [12].

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METHOD
In this research, adjustments to the coefficients SWAN model builder to obtain an accurate model output
in accordance to BMKG measurement data. Determination of the coefficient based on the user manual of
the software SWAN, where the coefficients tribes dissipation is a coefficient that can be changed in
accordance to the conditions of the object. This is supported by previous studies including by Ellena
Pallares, et al., (2014) in a study titled Wave Energy Balance in Wave Models (SWAN) for Semi-
enclosed Domains-Application to the Catalan Coast. The study conducted tuning coefficient value by
changing the value of the tribes of dissipation among coefficient whitecapping, the coefficient of bottom
friction, and the coefficient of depth induced wave breaking. Method of tuning by comparing the output
of the model modified by the model outputs default coefficient of SWAN software.
In this study, the tuning is done on the tribes dissipation coefficient that is whitecapping, bottom
friction and depth induced wave breaking. Modification of the model output compared to the default
model of SWAN software. Validation is done with measurement data BMKG wave buoy in February
2015. Coefficients change from the default model is the dissipation coefficient whitecapping. Bottom
friction coefficient of JONSWAP is changed to Collins formulation.

Figure-1. Fitting SWAN model to Bouy data

Validity performed on SWAN Model modification, RMSE values obtained results as follows:
Table-1. Comparison of SWAN models
SWAN Models Mean Square Error Root Mean Square
(MSE) Error (RMSE)
Default 0.040208 0.200519
Modification I 0.106487 0.326323
Modificitaion II 0.036705 0.191586

Based on MSE and RMSE in Table 1, the simulation conducted in this study refers to a modified model II
as a best model. Setting the model parameter modification 2 to the the number of grids, wind direction,
coordinates, conventions, grid system, boundary conditions, conditions of early initiation, and physical
parameters.

RESULT AND ANALYSIS

The computing using SWAN software takes several input parameters that must be defined in
advance. One is the beginning of the initial wave height, wind speed, and wind direction. Data obtained
from BMKG used to determine the input to analyze the wave characters in the Java Sea. Analysis of the
input variables, that are wind direction and wind speed. Trends indicate wind direction in three locations
in accordance to the character of the monsoon winds. According to the Research and Technology
Monitoring Dynamics Indonesian Sea on the east season (boreal summer) from July to September

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the wind moving from the continent of Australia to the Asian continent, while in the west season (boreal
winter) from January to March the wind moving from Asia to the Australian continent. The wind patterns
are called a monsoon winds.
At this simulation, assumed of input of wind move from the wind direction and the same speed.
Simulation in this scheme aims to determine the effect of the wind to the wave formation at the rate of
propagation of the bathymetry. The wind evaluated in four directions (north, east, south, and west). In
running a simulation, the input needed initial condition, the height and wave period. In this case the
selected average wave height of three locations. The input of wind selected in maximum and minimum at
three locations.
The propagation direction of wave when input of wind speed of 17 m / s (maximum speed) in west
(toward 2700) evenly heading east. The bending occurs in the southern coastal areas of the island and the
north coast of the island of Java because of the effects of refraction when the wave moves from the area
toward to the shallow area (beach). In the Makassar Strait occur bending wave direction towards North.

Figure – 2: Propagation of wave direction when the wind as input from west

CONCLUSION
The conclusion of simulation result:
 Validation to result of modification SWAN model in three location, RMSE is 0.35664 m,0.3553 m,
0.31794 m and 0.15189 m.
 RMSE of wave direction is 31.6882o, 31.579o, and 31.2698o.

REFERENCES
[1]. Altunkaynak. (2004), Significant Wave Height Prediction by Using a Spatial Model, Ocean
Engineering, Vol.32.
[2]. R tolosano dalgado. (2010), Wave height data assimilation using non-stationary kriging, Computers
& Geosciences.Vol.37.
[3]. Rusu L, Soares CG. (2012), Wave energy fassessments in the Azores Islands, Renew Energy, Vol.
45.
[4]. Rusu E, Onea F. (2013), Evaluation of the wind and wave energy along the Caspian Sea, Energy,
Vol. 50.
[5]. Rusu E, Pilar P, Soares G. (2008), Evaluation of the wave conditions in Madeira Archipelago with
spectral models, Ocean Eng., Vol. 35.
[6]. Rusu E, Soares CG (2012), Wave energy pattern around the Madeira Islands. Renew Energy,
Vol.45 (1).
[7]. Saket A, Etemad-Shahidi (2012), A. Wave energy potential along the northern coasts of the gulf of
Oman, Iran, Renew Energy, Vol. 40(1).
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assessment around the Korean Peninsula, Energy Vol. 36(3).
[9]. Iglesias G, Carballo R. (2010), Wave energy resource in the Estaca de Bares area (Spain). Renew
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[10]. Mai, S., Ohle, N., and Zimmarmenn, C. (1999), Applicability of Wave Model in Shallow Coastal
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[11]. Silva, A.A.P., Makarynsky, O., Monbaliu, J., and Soares, C.V. (2002), WAM/SWAN Simulation in
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