By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

Harry Potter
Wizarding world of Harry Potter
Collection
First of all, I want to thank you for purchasing this pattern, it was
made with a lot of love for all the crocheters who loves this
beautiful art.
I also want to remind you that this pattern and design is
exclusive made by me, it took effort and hours of work, so I ask
you to not share it on social media, or publish it on any site,
thus, you help me to continue creating new pretty things.
And I wish you a happy crocheting time, have fun!
Any questions and / or suggestions? You can find me here:

calypsoboutiquee.com
@calypso.boutiquee
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Havegee’s illustration.

All material, trademarks or any other type of intellectual property of this

pattern are property of Geraldyn Chirinos, and are subject to copyright.
The reproduction, unauthorized modification, copy, use, loan, transmission
and dissemination of the material, whole or part, of texts, images, design,
art, writing, trademarks or any other type of intellectual property of this
pattern is prohibited. This material may not be sold or sc2togtributed in
any way for profit or profit from it. March 2023
“ No, you’ve made a mistake.
I mean... l can’t be a wizard.
I mean, I’m just Harry. Just
Harry..”
 Contents

General notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Stitches abbreviations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Stitches symbols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
General instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Pants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Body (continuation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Robe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Scarf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Hat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Hedwig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Christmas sweater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Herbology cape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Gloves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Earmuffs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Mandrake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Plant pot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Finishing touches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Harry Potter Pag. 5
General notes
Level Finished size
Intermediate 7.4 inches
1. The steps explained in this pattern are for
someone who does already knows how
to crochet, therefore certain steps and
procedures are expected to be known.
2.
When working in chains (ch), always
begin on the 2nd ch from the hook, unless
indicated otherwise.
3. All decreases in this pattern, are to be
crocheted using the invisible decrease
technique.
4.
All single crochets when working in spiral
on this pattern were made in X shape. If any
part is worked in V shape single crochet, it
will be indicated.
5. You can select the hook and thickness of
the yarn of your preference. This way, with
the same pattern, you can make smaller
or bigger dolls.
6. You will find the correlating supporting
images are referenced in the text by an F
followed by a number, (eg. F12).
7. If the way to work with crochet (details
explained in the next section) is not
specified, assume that the default way to
crochet is in continuous rounds.
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Ways to work with crochet
Work in continuous rounds
Work the last stitch of the round, then work
the first stitch of the following round. To join
the rounds, NO slip stitch is required. Instead,
continue working each round on a spiral way
with the type of stitch indicated.
Work in joined rounds
Join the last stitch of the round to the 1st stitch of
the same round with a slip stitch, and chain one.
Then, continue working in joined rounds.
Work in joined turning rounds
Join the last stitch of the round to the 1st stitch of
the same round with a slip stitch, then chain one
and turn your work.
Work in rows
You will no work in rounds. This means, you won’t
join any round with a slip stitch. You’ll have to
chain 1 (or more chains) and turn your work.
About the yarn I use
You can use the type of yarn you want and the
thickness you prefer, but if you wonder what type
of yarn do I use exactly, it is 100% cotton, in the
thinnest number (8/3) (this is the measurement
system used in my country). This means that
the yarn has three threads per strand and it’s
produced locally. You can use the one called
“Super Fine weight“ (No. 1) or “Fine weight”
(No. 2). Any of those will be fine. Here you can see
the information of the label, for your reference:
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 6 Harry Potter

About the crochet hook I use Dark gray Pants

Yellow Shirt, scarf
You are free to use the crochet hook that best
works for you and for the yarn you use. The one Burgundy Shirt, scarf
I use for these patterns is a 1.25mm bamboo White Shirt, Hedwig
crochet hook that you can find on AliExpress, of a
generic brand. The most similar in size of known Black Robe, hat and shoes.
brands such as Clover, is the Clover amour Dark brown Hair
1.75mm or No. 0. This second option is slightly
bigger, but still works perfectly with the yarn I use. Light brown Gloves
Again I emphasize that these measurements Terracotta Plant pot
and clarifications are to give you an idea of the
size, as this will directly impact the final size of the Almond brown Mandrake
doll, and the size of the doll may vary depending Camel Herbology cape
on all these things I mention. Here is a picture of
the crochet hook, for your reference. Green Mandrake leaves
Navy blue Christmas sweater

z Soft bouclé in dark brown color for the

earmuffs (the pattern explains what it is and
what it can be substituted for if you can’t
get this one)
z Stitch markers
z Scissors
z Tapestry needle
z Blush, or chalk paster
z Black tape
z Black sewing thread
z Embroidery thread in colors: yellow,
burgundy and light green

Materials z

z
Thin brush (optional)
Cardboard

z 1.25mm crochet hook

z Safety eyes of 10mm for Harry, 5mm for
Hedwig and 3mm for the mandrake.
z 1mm or 2mm galvanized wire
z Fiberfill
z 100% Thin cotton yarn, in colors:

Salmon Body
Beige Earmuffs
Light gray Shirt
Harry Potter Pag. 7
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

Stitches abbreviations
ch Chain FLO Front loop only
R Round BPsc Back post single crochet
Rw Row pc3, pc5 Popcorn stitch
mr Magic ring FO Fasten off
sk Skip stitches FOLLT Fasten off, leaving a long tail
st, sts Stitch, stitches JSL Join with slst
slst Slip stitch JCH1 Join with slst and chain 1
sc Single crochet JCH2 Join with slst and chain 2
sc-inc Single crochet increase JCH3 Join with slst and chain 3
(2 sts in one st)
JCHT1 Join with slst, chain 1 and turn
sc-inc3 Double increase of single your work
crochet (3sts in one st)
CHT1 Chain 1 and turn
sc-inc4 Triple increase of single
CHT2 Chain 2 and turn
crochet (4 sts in one st)
CHT3 Chain 3 and turn
sc2tog Decrease of single crochet
(2 sts together)
hdc Half double crochet
hdc-inc Increase of half double
crochet (2 sts in one st)
hdc2tog Decrease of hdc
(2 hdc together)
dc Double crochet
dc-inc Increase of double crochet
dc-inc3 Double increase of dc
(3 dc in one st)
dc2tog Double crochet decrease
tr Triple crochet
tr-inc Triple crochet increase
tr-inc3 Double increase of triple
crochet (3sts in one st)
tr-inc4 Triple increase of triple
crochet (4sts in one st)
BLO Back loop only
CalypsoBOUTIQUEE
Pag. 8 Harry Potter

Stitches symbols General instructions

Throughout the pattern, you will find crochet
pattern graphics. Here’s what each symbol R 1 (4sc, sc-inc)xN, 7sc [74]
means: The total sts of
the round

x N times
Chain (ch)
Current round Repeat the sts inside
the round brackets
Slip stitch (slst)

Single crochet (sc)

Increase of single crochet (sc-inc)

BLO FLO

Half double crochet (hdc)

Double crochet (dc)

Triple crochet (tr)

Increase of tr (tr-inc)
BLO Insert your hook underneath the back
Double increase of tr (tr-inc3) loop only and make the st.
FLO Insert your hook underneath the front
Triple increase of tr (tr-inc4) loop only and make the st.
{...} Make all the sts inside curly brackets
in the same st.
sk N When it is written sk followed by a
number, it means that you will have
to skip that number of stitches of the
previous round, you will not crochet
that N number of stitches.
Harry Potter Pag. 9
Popcorn stitch (pc)
When it is written pc5, work 5 double crochet in
the same stitch. Drop the loop from your hook.
Insert your hook from front to back under the top
2 loops of the first double crochet of the group.
Grab the dropped loop with your hook and pull it
through the stitch and chain 1. When it’s pc3, you
will work 3 dc instead of 5.
2
1
Click to watch the video
tutorial
Work all around the foundation chain
When it is written in the pattern that you work all
around the foundation chain, it means that you
will first have to crochet the stitches described
on the chains and when you reach the end of
the chains, you will have to turn your work over
and work on the other side of the chains. Here is
an example graphic:
As you can see, the stitches will go on both sides
of the foundation chain.
Calypso
BOUTIQUEE
Back post double crochet (BPdc)
Yarn over, and insert your hook from back to
front between the posts of the first and second
double crochet of the row below and then from
front to back again between the posts of the
second and third stitches(1). Yarn over, and draw
the yarn around the post of the stitch. Yarn over,
and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the
hook, twice(3).
1 2
3 4
Click to watch
the video tutorial
Back post single crochet (BPsc)
It is the same steps of the BPdc, but instead of
making a double crochet, you make a single
crochet, inserting the hook between the posts
the same way.
Click to watch the video
tutorial
Now get your yarn and hook and let's get started!
Harry Potter Pag. 11
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

Cut a piece of cardboard the size of the shoe

Arms (make 2 ) sole (F1) and glue to it (F2).

R6 7 sc, 4 hdc2tog, 7 sc [18]
So not stuff the arms.
R7 5 sc, 4 hdc2tog, 5 sc [14]
Start with salmon
R8 5 sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, 4 sc [12]
R1 mr, 6sc [6]
Cut a piece of wire about 9.4 inches long (the
R2 (2sc, sc-inc)x2 [8] length will vary depending on the thickness of
R3 8sc [8] yarn you use). Fold the wire as shown in F3. The
fold should be the same size as the sole of the
R4 4sc, pc3, 3sc [8]
foot. Insert the wire into the doll’s foot (F4) and
R5 8sc [8] stuff it with fiberfill. Stuff the legs as you work.
Change to light gray R9 12 sc [12]
R 5.5 BLO 8slst (does not count as round) [8] R 10 (sc2tog, 4 sc)x2 [10]
R6 BLO 8sc [8]
R 11-12 10 sc (2 rounds) [10]
R 7-19 8sc (13 rounds). FO [8]
Change to salmon

R 13-27 10 sc (15 rounds) [10]

Change to dark gray

R 28 10 sc [10]

FO just the first leg. Make 6 sc more on each leg

(these sts won’t count as part of any round).

F1 F2

Legs (make 2 )
Work all around the foundation chain.

Start with black

R1 ch 7, sc-inc, 4 sc, sc-inc4, 4 sc, [16]

sc-inc F3 F4

R2 sc-inc, 6 sc, 3 sc-inc, 4 sc, [22]

2 sc-inc
R3 BLO 22 sc [22]

R 4-5 22 sc (2 rounds) [22]

Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 12 Harry Potter

F4.5 Now continue with the body without cutting the

thread.

Body
Always stuff in the body as you work.
F5 Continue with dark gray

R 30-36 28 sc (7 rounds) [28]

Change to light gray

R 37 28 sc [28]

R 38 BLO (6 sc, sc-inc)x4 [32]

Change to burgundy
Attach black yarn in the front loops of round 2 of
the shoe (F4.5) and make 22 slst. FO. Now make R 39 BLO 32 slst [32]
the body. Remember not to cut the yarn of the
Change to yellow
second leg.
R 40 BLO 32 slst [32]
Legs joining Change to burgundy
R 29 Ch 4, make 1 sc in the 1 st of the first left
st
R 41 BLO 32 slst [32]
or the stitch that is on the inner side of the
thigh (this sc will be the beginning of each Change to light gray
round), then make: 9 sc more in this leg,
R 41.5 BLO 32 slst (does not count as round) [32]
4 sc on chains, 10 sc on the other leg and 4 sc on
the base chains. You will have a total of 28 sc. R 42 BLO (6 sc, sc2tog)x4 [28]
See graphic 1.
R 43 28 sc [28]
Join the leg wires together by twisting them (F5).
R 44 (sc2tog, 11 sc)x2, 2 sc [26]

Graphic 1 R 45-46 26 sc (2 rounds) [26]

Front R 47 2 sc, sc2tog, 18 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc [24]

R 48 2 sc, sc2tog, 16 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc [22]

Left Right
leg leg Before continuing to make the body, let’s make
10 sts 10 sts the pants so that it is easier to make them before
joining the arms. Do not cut the yarn on the body.
End

Start

Back
Harry Potter Pag. 13
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F6
Pants
Attach dark gray yarn in the front loops of round
37 of the back side of the body (F6), and with the
doll’s legs facing up, make:

Start with dark gray

R1 (6 sc, sc-inc)x4 [32]

F7 F8
Back side
R2 (7 sc, sc-inc)x4 [36]

R 3-9 36 sc (7 rounds) [36]

Now you are going to make the pant legs. First,

find the center of the back of the pants and
make as many single crochet stitches until you
reach that stitch (F7), in my case, I only made 1
sc, it will depend on where the last stitch of row
9 was, but it can take you more or fewer stitches F9 F10
Front
to position the st in the center. Then ch 5 (F8) center
and count 18 sts to the right (F9), (which would 18 sts to
the right
be the center of the front), and make 1 sc in that
18th stitch (F10). Then make 17 sc in the next sts,
and 5 sc over the chains (F11). You will have a
total of 23 sts. Then continue with: Back
Front side
center
R 11-29 23 sc (19 rounds) [23]
FO (F12). Now it’s time to make the second leg of
F11
the pants. Attach yarn on the back of the pants,
in the first available stitch (F13) and make 18 sc
5 sc on
over the stitches that were left unworked, then chains
make 5 sc over the base of the chains that were
previously made in the 1st leg (F14-F15). You will
have 23 sts. Then continue with the rest of the leg
as was done with the first leg, repeating rounds
from 11 to 29. In the end, FO (F16).
Now let’s continue making the body. F12 F13
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 14 Harry Potter

F14 F15 body at the same time, starting in the 7th st of

the arm, in the same way as described before
and finally make 5 sc on the body [22] (F18). See
graphic 2
R 50 In this R, skip the 2 joining sts of the arm
and the body. Make 4 sc on the body, 6 sc on the
unworked sts of the arm, 3 sc, 3 sc, 3 sc on the
Work there
body, 6 sc on the unworked sts of the arm, and
5 sc on the body. You will end up with 30 sc. See
F16 F17 graphic 3.
Cut two pieces of wire the size of the arm plus
about 4 inches, fold one end as shown in F18 and
cover it with tape (F19). Insert them into each
arm (F20) and twist them to the main wire of
the body (F21). Cover all the wire with tape (F22).
Stuff the top of the arms, chest and shoulders
very well. Remember to stuff as you crochet.

Front

Body (continuation) Graphic 2

In white

Arms joining Right Body Left

arm arm
Round 49

Note
When you first insert your hook into the End
arm, make sure the thumb is pointing Start
forward. This rule is for both arms, so you
Back
can change the joining st if necessary.

In the next rounds, the color will be changed

within the same row. The color you will have to Graphic 3
Front
change to is defined by the color of the letters in
the pattern:
sc = in light gray
Body
sc = in white (I put it in red to make it easy for Right
arm
Left
arm
Round 50
you to see the color change.)
R 49 Make 4 sc on the body, 2 sc on the arm and
the body at the same time, starting in the 3rd st of
End
the arm, (insert your hook first in the arm, inside Start
out and then in the body) (F17). Then make 4 sc, Back
1 sc, 4 sc on the body, 2 sc on the arm and the
Harry Potter Pag. 15
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

F18 F18 Change to salmon

R 54.5 BLO 10 slst (does not count as round) [10]

R 55 BLO 10 sc [10]

R 56-57 10 sc (2 rounds) [10]

R 58 BLO (sc, 2sc2tog)x2 [6]

R 59-67 6 sc (9 rounds) [6]

F19 F20 Close the neck hole and FO. The neck must be
long (F23).
Attach light gray yarn on front loops of round
38 of the back side of the body (F24) and make:
(7 hdc, hdc-inc)x4 [36]. FO.
Embroider 3 lines on the shirt in burgundy and
yellow, trying to hide the color change from
white to gray (F25).
F21
Tie
The tie is made with embroidery thread and
0.9mm crochet hook. If you don’t have these,
you can use any thinner yarn than you used for
the doll and a hook according to the yarn size,

F24

F22 F23

F25

R 51 12 sc, 5 sc, 13 sc [30]

R 52 3 sc, 4sc2tog, 7 sc, 4sc2tog, 4 sc [22]

R 53 sc, 3sc2tog, 7 sc, 3sc2tog, 2 sc [16]

Change to white

R 54 (sc2tog, sc, sc2tog)x3, sc [10]

Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 16 Harry Potter

or you can try fraying your yarn into 2 strands. Collar

If it is too big, you can embroider the tie entirely
instead of crocheting it. Work in rows.
Leave a long tail at the beginning. Work in rows.
Start with white
Start with burgundy
Rw 1 ch 16, sc2tog, (2 sc, sc-inc)x3, 2 sc, [16]
Rw 1 ch 3, 2 sc. CHT1 [2]
sc2tog. CHT3
Rw 2-4 2 sc (3 rows). CHT1 [2]
Rw 2 dc2tog, 12 sc, dc2tog, ch 2, join with [14]
Rw 5 sk 1, sc. CHT1 [1] slst to the base of the stitch.
Rw 6 1 sc, ch 1 [1]
FOLLT (F29). Sew the collar to the front loops of
FOLLT (F26). With the beginning tail, tie the tie at round 54 of the neck. Join both ends of the collar
the neck, joining both sides, and with the long tail (F30).
of the end, join the bottom part (F27). Embroider
lines all over the tie with yellow embroidery F30
thread (F28).

F26

F27 F28 Head

Start with salmon

R1 mr, 6 sc [6]
R2 6 sc-inc [12]
R3 (sc, sc-inc)x6 [18]
R4 sc, (sc-inc, 2 sc)x5, sc-inc, sc [24]
F29
R5 (3 sc, sc-inc)x6 [30]
R6 2 sc, (sc-inc, 4 sc)x5, sc-inc, [36]
2 sc
R7 (5 sc, sc-inc)x6 [42]
R8 3 sc, (sc-inc, 6 sc)x5, sc-inc, [48]
3 sc
R9 (7 sc, sc-inc)x6 [54]
Harry Potter Pag. 17
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

R 10 4 sc, (sc-inc, 8 sc)x5, sc-inc, [60] the nose through the stitches you marked, first
4 sc horizontally (F37), and then passing the thread
vertically under the horizontal strand (F38).
R 11-23 60 sc (13 rounds) [60]
R 24 4 sc, (sc2tog, 8 sc)x5, sc2tog, [54]
4 sc F31 F32
R 25 (7 sc, sc2tog)x6 [48]
Insert the 10mm safety eyes between round
19 and 20, with 11 sts of space between them.
Embroider with white yarn the sclera of the eyes,
and with black yarn the outer part of the eyes
(F31).
R 26 (3 sc, sc2tog, 3 sc)x6 [42]
R 27 (5 sc, sc2tog)x6 [36] F33 F34

R 28 (2 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc)x6 [30]

R 29 (3 sc, sc2tog)x6 [24]
Start stuffing the head
R 30 (sc, sc2tog, sc)x6 [18]
R 30 (sc, sc2tog)x6 [12]
R 32-33 12 sc (2 rounds) [12]
F35 F36
FOLLT. Do not close the hole of the head.

Now you will have to put the neck left over from
the head inside of it. To make this, use a toothpick
and free up space inside the head, where the
hole was left (F32) (you can also use a pair of
scissors). Then you must introduce the last two
rounds of the head through the hole you just
freed. You can help yourself with some tweezers
F37 F38
to push the excess in (F33). You should have a
hole as in F34.

Mark with pins where the eyebrows will be

placed, I marked them 3 rounds above the eyes
(F35). Embroider the eyebrows with dark brown
where you marked (F36). If you need help, you
can watch this video of how I embroider the
eyebrows.

Mark with pins where the nose will be placed, I

marked it 1 round below the eyes. Embroider
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 18 Harry Potter

Ears F41 F42

Make mr and 5 sc inside the ring. Count 6 stitches

from the eyes to sew the ears, at about mid-eye
height (F39), and sew them there (F40).

F39 F40

F43 F44

6 sts

Head joining
The head must be movable. Thread a needle
F45 F46
with the thread left over from the head (F41) and
pass it through the neck (F42), then pass it back
through the hole in the neck, pulling it out through
the top of the head (F43), it should look like in
F44. Insert the long neck through the hole in the
head, rotating the head over the neck so that
it goes in and at the same time pull the strand
coming out of the top of the head until the neck
is inserted (F45). The bottom of the head should
go over the front loops left over from the neck
(that is, 3 rounds above the neck), so use those
loops as a guide.

Reinsert the needle through a different stitch

Hair
than where it comes out (F46), always trying
to keep tightening. Pull the needle out from Base
underneath and hide the yarn in other stitches.
FO. Start with dark brown
You can also omit this step and leave the head R1 mr, 9 sc [9]
unsewn, just tucking the head into the neck is
R2 FLO 9 sc-inc [18]
enough to make it look good, but it’s up to your
purpose and the doll. R3 (sc, sc-inc)x9 [27]
Harry Potter Pag. 19
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Strands 14
15 16
17
18
13 19

First layer In this 11 12 20

21
Do not cut yarn, you will now make the first layer direction 10
22
23
9
of strands, which will be joined to the last round 8
7
25
24

6 26
of the base with slst. For every stitch of that round, 5
4 27
one strand will be made (27 strands in total). 3 2 1

Strand 1: ch 23, start in the 2nd ch from hook: 3 sc,

17 hdc, 2 sc [22]. Join to the next stitch with slst.
Mark with a stitch marker this first strand, as it will F47
be important to identify this and the rest of the
strands in order to position them on the head.
Strand 2: ch 17, start in the 3rd ch from hook:
13 hdc, 2 sc [15]. Join to the next stitch with slst.
Strand 3: ch 18, start in the 3rd ch from hook:
14 hdc, 2 sc [16]. Join to the next stitch with slst.
Strand 4: ch 14, start in the 3rd ch from hook:
10 hdc, 2 sc [12]. Join to the next stitch with slst.
F48 F49
Strands 5-9: ch 12, start in the 3rd ch from hook:
8 hdc, 2 sc [10]. Join to the next stitch with slst.
Strand 10: ch 14, start in the 3rd ch from hook:
10 hdc, 2 sc [12]. Join to the next stitch with slst.
1
Strand 11: ch 18, start in the 3rd ch from hook: 13
14 hdc, 2 sc [16]. Join to the next stitch with slst.
Strand 12: ch 17, start in the 3rd ch from hook:
13 hdc, 2 sc [15]. Join to the next stitch with slst.
Strands 13-27: ch 23, start in the 2nd ch from Assembly
hook: 3 sc, 17 hdc, 2 sc [22]. Join to the next stitch Tie the strands of the second layer with a rubber
with slst. band to make it easier to position the strands of
When you finish the last strand (the 27th), FO. the first layer.
Second layer Position the 1st strand of the first layer behind the
Turn your work, and with the wrong side facing right ear (this is the strand you marked with the
you, attach yarn to the back loop of the first marker) (F48).
stitch of round 1 of base (F47). In this layer, you Position the strand 13 behind the left ear (F49).
will make 9 strands (1 for every stitch of round 1 These two strands will delimit the rest of the
of the base). strands.
Strand 1-4: ch 15, start in the 3rd ch from hook: Now position strand 2 and strand 12 above the
13 hdc, 2 sc [13]. Join to the next stitch with slst. ears (F50-F51).
Strand 5-9: ch 26, start in the 3rd ch from hook: Position strand 3 and 11 in front of the ears
22 hdc, 2 sc [24]. Join to the next stitch with slst. (F50-F51).
When you finish the last strand, FO. Position the strands from 4 to 8 above the
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 20 Harry Potter

forehead, distributing them well to the right side.

Strands 9 and 10 will be positioned on the left side
of the forehead. It is important to leave a blank
Robe
space on the left side of the forehead because
the scar will be embroidered there (F52). Work in rows. All the rows are worked on front
loops only.
Once all the strands of the first layer are
positioned, proceed to glue or sew each one. In Start with black
my case, I glued each strand with UHU universal
Rw 1 ch 15, (sc-inc3, 2 sc)x2, 2 sc, [22]
glue, but you can sew them if you wish.
(2 sc, sc-inc3)x2. CHT1
Once you are done with the first layer, untie the
2nd layer and position the strands as follows: Rw 2 FLO sc, (sc-inc3, 4 sc)x2, [30]
(4 sc, sc-inc3)x2, sc. CHT1
Position strands 1 to 3 to the right side of the
forehead, above the 1st layer and strand 4 to the Rw 3 FLO 2 sc, (sc-inc3, 6 sc)x2, [38]
left (F54). 4 sc, sc-inc3, 6 sc, sc-inc3, 2
Distribute the strands from 5 to 9 evenly over sc. CHT1
the back of the head (F55), and as with the first Rw 4 FLO sc-inc, 3 sc, ch 5, sk 8, [34]
layer, sew or glue these strands to the head. 14 sc, ch 5, sk 8, 3 sc, sc-inc.
CHT1 (See graphic 4).
F50 F51 Rw 5 FLO sc-inc, 4 sc, 5 sc over the [38]
2 ch, sc-inc, 12 sc, sc-inc, 5 sc
3 12
11 over the ch, 4 sc, sc-inc. CHT1
(See graphic 5)
Rw 6 FLO sc-inc, 36 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [40]
Rw 7-8 FLO 40 sc (2 rounds). CHT1 [40]
Rw 9 FLO sc-inc, 38 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [42]
Rw 10-11 FLO 42 sc (2 rounds). CHT1 [42]
F52 F53
Rw 12 FLO sc-inc, 40 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [44]
Rw 13-14 FLO 44 sc (2 rounds). CHT1 [44]
Rw 15 FLO sc-inc, 42 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [46]
Rw 16-17 FLO 46 sc (2 rounds). CHT1 [46]
Rw 18 FLO sc-inc, 44 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [48]
Rw 19-20 FLO 48 sc (2 rounds). CHT1 [48]
F54 F55 Rw 21 FLO sc-inc, 46 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [50]
Rw 22-23 FLO 50 sc (2 rounds). CHT1 [50]
Rw 24 FLO sc-inc, 48 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [52]
Rw 25-26 FLO 52 sc (2 rounds). CHT1 [52]
Rw 27 FLO sc-inc, 50 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [54]
Rw 28-29 FLO 54 sc [54]
Harry Potter Pag. 21
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

Graphic 4
Row 4

Graphic 5
Row 5

Rw 30 FLO sc-inc, 52 sc, sc-inc. CHT1 [56] F58

Rw 31-32 FLO 56 sc (2 rounds). CHT1 [56]
Rw 33 In this row, you will work all around the
robe. First, make: FLO 55 sc, {sc, ch 1, sc}.
Then make all over the left side: 26 sc, sc-inc3
(mark the 2nd st of this increase with a stitch
marker), 5 sc.
Make 14 sc over the foundation chains, that is the
top side of the robe. F59
Finally make all over the right side: 5 sc, sc-inc3,
27 sc. JSL to the 1st st of this row and FO. [141].
(F56-F57).
Attach black yarn in the stitch you marked
before (F58) and make: FLO 2 slst, 2 sc,
2 hdc, dc, {dc, tr}, (tr-inc, tr)x3, (tr, tr-inc)x3,
{tr, dc}, dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, 2 slst. FO (F59).
Now make the sleeves. Right sleeve
Work in joined turning rounds. Attach black yarn
in the right armhole as shown in F60, it must be
F56 F57 there so the increases fit well. The increases
FLO 55 sc, {sc, ch 1, sc} should always be at the bottom of the sleeve.

Start with black

c
26

7s

R1 5 sc over the foundation chains of

sc

,2
,s

c3
c-

in
in

c-

row 4 of the robe, 1 sc on the lateral,

c3

,s
,5

sc
sc

14 sc 8 sc on the unworked sts of row 4, 1 sc

on the lateral. JCHT1 [15]
R2 FLO 12 sc, sc-inc, 2 sc. JCHT1 [16]
R3 FLO 3 sc, sc-inc, 12 sc. JCHT1 [17]
R4 FLO 13 sc, sc-inc, 3 sc. JCHT1 [18]
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 22 Harry Potter

F60 F61 R7 FLO 15 sc, sc-inc, 4 sc. JCHT1 [21]

R8 FLO 5 sc, sc-inc, 15 sc. JCHT1 [22]
R9 FLO 22 sc [22]
R 10 FLO 6 sc, sc-inc, 15 sc. JCHT1 [23]
Attach
Attach
R 11 FLO 23 sc. JSL and FO [23]

As you can see in F62, the increases will be at

the bottom of the sleeve, so if you see that the
F62 F63 increases don’t fit like that, you can change the
stitches and the position of the increases to fit,
as the position could change due to the tension
of each person. As optional, you can print the
Gryffindor badge and glue it to the robe (F63).

R5 FLO 4 sc, sc-inc, 13 sc. JCHT1 [19] Scarf

R6 FLO 14 sc, sc-inc, 4 sc. JCHT1 [20]
Work in rows.
R7 FLO 5 sc, sc-inc, 14 sc. JCHT1 [21]
R8 FLO 15 sc, sc-inc, 5 sc. JCHT1 [22] Start with burgundy

R9 FLO 22 sc [22] Rw 1 ch 7, 6 sc. CHT1 [6]

R 10 FLO 16 sc, sc-inc, 5 sc. JCHT1 [23] Rw 2-4 BLO 6 sc (3 rows). CHT1 [13]
R 11 FLO 23 sc. JSL and FO [23] Change to yellow

Rw 5-8 BLO 6 sc (4 rows). CHT1 [6]

Left sleeve
Change to burgundy
It is made the same way as the right sleeve,
but changing the beginning and the increases Rw 9-12 BLO 6 sc (4 rows). CHT1 [6]
position. Attach black yarn in the right armhole Rw 13-76 Repeat the same sequence from row
as shown in F61, and make: 5 to row 12, making 4 rows in yellow and 4 rows in
burgundy until you have 76 rows. FO. Add some
R1 FLO 1 sc on the lateral, 8 sc on the
fringes at every side of the scarf (F64).
unworked sts of row 4 of the robe, 1 sc
on the lateral, 5 over the foundation
chains of row 4. JCHT1 [15] F64

R2 FLO 3 sc, sc-inc, 11 sc. JCHT1 [16]

R3 FLO 13 sc, sc-inc, 2 sc. JCHT1 [17]
R4 FLO 4 sc, sc-inc, 12 sc. JCHT1 [18]
R5 FLO 14 sc, sc-inc, 3 sc. JCHT1 [19]
R6 FLO 4 sc, sc-inc, 14 sc. JCHT1 [20]
Harry Potter Pag. 23
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

Hat
Work in joined rounds.

Start with black

R1 mr, 6 sc. JCH1 [6]

R2 6 sc. JCH2 [6]
R3 (hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [9]
R4 hdc, hdc-inc, (hdc, hdc-inc)x2, hdc. [12]
JCH2 Hedwig
R5 (3 hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [15]
R6 2 hdc, hdc-inc, (4 hdc, hdc-inc)x2, [18]
2 hdc. JCH2
Body
R7 (5 hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [21] Stuff the body as you work.
R8 3 hdc, hdc-inc, (6 hdc, hdc-inc)x2, [24] Start with white
3 hdc. JCH2
R1 mr, 6 sc [6]
R9 (7 hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [27]
R2 6 sc-inc [12]
R 10 4 hdc, hdc-inc, (8 hdc, hdc-inc)x2, [30]
4 hdc. JCH2 R3 (sc, sc-inc)x6 [18]

R 11 (9 hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [33] R4 (8 sc, sc-inc)x2 [20]

R 12 5 hdc, hdc-inc, (10 hdc, hdc-inc)x2, [36] R 5-7 20 sc (3 rounds) [20]

5 hdc. JCH2 R9 (8 sc, sc2tog)x2 [18]
R 13 (11 hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [39] R 10 (4 sc, sc2tog)x3 [15]
R 14 6 hdc, hdc-inc, (12 hdc, hdc-inc)x2, [42] R 11 (3 sc, sc2tog)x3 [12]
6 hdc. JCH2 R 12 (sc, sc2tog)x4 [8]
R 15 (13 hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [45] R 13 BLO (2 sc, sc2tog)x2 [6]
R 16 7 hdc, hdc-inc, (14 hdc, hdc-inc)x2, [48] R 14-15 6 sc (2 rounds) [6]
7 hdc. JCH2
FOLLT. Close the hole of the neck (F65).
R 17 (15 hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [51]
R 18 8 hdc, hdc-inc, (16 hdc, hdc-inc)x2, [54] F65 F66
8 hdc. JCH2
R 19 (17 hdc, hdc-inc)x3. JCH2 [57]
R 20 9 hdc, hdc-inc, (18 hdc, hdc-inc)x2, [60]
9 hdc. JCH2
R 21 60 hdc. JSL and FO [60]
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 24 Harry Potter

Head F67 F68

Start with white

R1 mr, 6 sc [6]
R2 6 sc-inc [12]
R3 (sc, sc-inc)x6 [18]
R4 (2 sc, sc-inc)x6 [24]
R6 (11 sc, sc-inc)x2 [26] F69
Wings
R 7-9 26 sc (3 rounds) [26]
R 10 (11 sc, sc2tog)x2 [24]
Insert the 5mm safety eyes between round 8
and 9, with 5 sts of space between them (F66).
R 11 (2 sc, sc2tog)x6 [18]
Start stuffing the head
R 12 (sc, sc2tog)x6 [12]
Right wing
R 13 (4 sc, sc2tog)x2 [10]
Work all around the foundation chains: ch 9, start
R 14-15 10 sc (2 rounds) [10]
working in the 5th ch from your hook: tr-inc3, 2 dc,
FO. Just like Harry’s head, you will have to put sc, sc-inc4, hdc, 2dc, tr-inc4. JSL and FO.
the long neck of the head inside of it. Follow the
same steps as for Harry (F67). There should be a
hole as shown in F68.
To make the wings, crochet with white yarn
and black sewing thread to simulate the bird’s
feathers (F69). Legs (make 2)
With black yarn, ch 3, and 2 slst, then ch 3 again
Left wing and 2 slst. Ch 1 and FOLLT (F70).
Work all around the foundation chains: ch 9, start Embroider with yellow thread the outside of the
working in the 5th ch from hook: tr-inc3, 2dc, hdc, eyes and with black thread the nose, making a
sc-inc4, sc, 2dc, tr-inc4. JSL and FO. triangle shape. (F71).

F70 F71
Harry Potter Pag. 25
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

Assembly F78 F79

Thread a needle with the long tail of the body,
and insert it through the hole in the head (F72).
Reinsert the needle through a different stitch
from where it came out (F73) and pull it out
through the hole in the head (F74), then pass it
through the neck of the body (F75) and insert the
head over the neck (F76), pulling on the thread
at the same time. Reinsert the needle through
the hole in the head (F77) and hide the thread.
FO. This is the same technique as Harry’s head
joining.
Sew each wing to its side, that is, the right wing
Christmas sweater
on the right side and the left wing on the left Work in rows. You will start with the bottom band:
side. (F78).
Start with navy blue
Sew the legs to the bottom part of the body.
(F79). Rw 1 ch 5, 4 sc. CHT1 [4]

F72 F73 Rw 2-33 BLO 4 sc (32 rows). CHT1 [4]

Rw 34 BLO 4 sc, ch 1 [4]
Now work all over the end of the band (F80),
making:
Rw 1-3 34 sc (3 rows). CHT1 [34]
Rw 4 7 sc, sc2tog, 16 sc, sc2tog, 7 sc. [32]
CHT1
Rw 5-11 32 sc (7 rows). CHT1 [32]
F74 F75
Rw 12 7 sc (Skip the remaining sts). CHT2 [7]
Rw 13 3 hdc, 4 sc. CHT1 [7]
Rw 14 4 sc, hdc, 2dc [7]
FOLLT (F81). Skip the next 4 sts, and attach yarn in
5th st and make (F82):

Rw 12 10 sc (Skip the remaining sts). CHT2 [10]

F76 F77 F80

Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 26 Harry Potter

Rw 13 3 hdc, 4 sc, 3 hdc. CHT3 [10] white yarn. You can use the same crochet
hook to make slst instead of embroidering. See
Rw 14 2 dc, hdc, 4 sc, hdc, 2 dc [10]
graphic 6.
FOLLT (F83). Skip the next 4 sts, and attach yarn With the strand left from the top tips of the
in 5th st and make (F84): sweater, sew both ends of it, joining them
(F88-F89). Repeat the same on the other end of
Rw 12 7 sc. CHT1 [7]
the sleeve (F90).
Rw 13 4 sc, 3 hdc. CHT3 [7]
Rw 14 2dc, hdc, 4 sc [7] F86 F87
Do not cut the yarn. Make sc all over the side
until you get to the bottom (F85). FO.
Attach yarn on the other side of the sweater, on
the bottom part (F86) and make sc all over the
side until you get to the top (F87).
Embroider the H letter on Harry’s sweater with

F81 F82

Skip 4 sts

F83 F84

Skip 4 sts

Graphic 6 F88
F85
Harry Potter Pag. 27
Calypso
BOUTIQUEE

F89 F90

Sleeves
Attach yarn on the armhole (F91-F92), and work
in joined turning rounds.

R 1-12 14 sc (12 rounds). JCHT1 [14]

R 13 14 sc. JCHT3 [14]
R 14 14 dc. JSL and FO. [14]
Use a piece of Velcro on the sides of the back to
close the sweater (F93).

F91 F92

Right sleeve Left sleeve

F93
 Herbology
“Three times a week they went out to the greenhouses behind the castle to study
Herbology, with a dumpy little witch called Professor Sprout, where they learned how to take
care of all the strange plants and fungi, and found out what they were used for.”
Harry Potter Pag. 29
CalypsoBOUTIQUEE

Rw 3 5 sc, sc2tog, 5 sc. CHT1 [11]

Herbology cape Rw 4 4 sc, sc2tog, 5 sc. CHT1 [10]

Rw 5 4 sc, sc2tog, 4 sc. CHT2 [9]
Work in rows.
Rw 6 2 hdc, 5 sc, 2 hdc. FO (F96). [9]
Start with camel Skip the next 2 sts and attach yarn in the 3 strd

and make (F97):

Rw 1 ch 49, 48 sc. CHT1 [48]
Rw 2-22 48 sc (21 rows). CHT1 [48] Rw 1 4 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [5]

Rw 23 sc, (6 sc, sc2tog)x5, 7 sc. CHT1 [43] Rw 2 sk 1, 4 sc. CHT1 [4]

Rw 24-26 43 sc (3 rows). CHT1 [43] Rw 3 2 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [3]

Rw 27 12 sc, sc2tog, 15 sc, sc2tog, [41] Rw 4 sk 1, 2 sc. CHT1 [2]

12 sc. CHT1 Rw 5 2 sc. FOLLT (F98). [2]
Rw 28-29 41 sc (2 rows). CHT1 [41] With the long tail you left from the sides of the
cape, sew each peak of the top of the cape
Rw 30 12 sc, sc2tog, 13 sc, sc2tog, [39]
(F99), joining the first 2 sts together (F100),
12 sc. CHT1
Rw 31 39 sc. CHT1 [38]
F94
Rw 32 12 sc, sc2tog, 11 sc, sc2tog, 12 sc. [37]
CHT1
Rw 33 37 sc. CHT1 [37]
Rw 34 (7 sc, sc2tog)x2, sc, [33]
(sc2tog, 7 sc)x2. CHT1
Rw 35 33 sc. CHT1 [33]
Rw 36 sc2tog, 9 sc, sc2tog, 7 sc, [29]
sc2tog, 9 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 F95 F96
Rw 37 sk 1, 5 sc (skip the remaining sts). [5]
CHT1
Rw 38 3 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [4]
Rw 39 sk 1, 3 sc. CHT1 [3]
Rw 40 1 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [2]
Skip 2 sts
Rw 41 2 sc. FOLLT. [2]
You will see that there’s a peak in this part of the
F97 F98
cape (F94).
Skip the next 2 sts and attach yarn in the 3rd st
and make (F95):

Rw 1 13 sc. CHT1 [13]

Skip 2 sts
Rw 2 6 sc, sc2tog, 5 sc. CHT1 [12]
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 30 Harry Potter

making this way the armhole. Repeat this step R 1-2 14 sc (2 rounds). JCHT1 [14]
on the other side of the cape (F101). You must
R3 (5 sc, sc2tog)x2. JCHT1 [12]
have something like shown in F102.
Attach yarn to the right corner of the cape (F103), R 4-14 12 sc (11 rounds). JCHT1 [12]
work all around the edges of the cape. Make: R 15 12 sc. JSL and FO. [12]
34 sc, sc-inc, 2 sc, (mark the last st made with
The slst joints must be at the back side of the
a stitch marker (F104)), 4 sc, sc-inc, 7 sc, sc-inc,
cape, not in the front side.
6 sc, sc-inc, 33 sc, {sc, ch 1, sc}, 47 sc. JSL and FO
(F105).
Note
Sleeves
If you see the sleeve is too short or too
Work in joined turning rounds. Attach yarn on long, you can add or remove rows, so
the back corner of the armholes (F106-F107) the sleeves must reach the height of the
thumb (F108).
and work all around the hole making:

F99 F100 F104 F105

Join these 2 sts

F101 F102 F106 F107

Joint these 2 sts

Right sleeve Left sleeve

F103 F108
Harry Potter Pag. 31
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

Collar F109 F110

Attach yarn to the marked st of the cape (F109)

and make:

Rw 1 {ch 3, dc}, (3 dc, dc-inc)x2, 2 dc, [26]

(dc-inc, 3 sc)x2, dc-inc. CHT3 Marked st

Rw 2 dc-inc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 16 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc,

(the last dc must be placed over the
three turning chains of the previous F111 F112
row). Then ch 3 and join with slst to the
base of the last st and FO. [27]
Have in mind that these sts must be at the center
of the top of the cape, so if you see they’re not
aligned, you can move the beginning st to align
them (F110). Sew the collar to the cape to stick it
in place (F111).

Bottom pockets (make 2) F113

Work in rows.

Rw 1 ch 6, 5 sc. CHT1 [5]

Rw 2-3 5 sc (2 rows). CHT1 [5]
Rw 4 sk 1, 2 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [3] Pockets
Rw 5 sk 1, sc2tog [1]
Now work all around the pocket: 1 sc, sc-inc, 2 sc,
F114
{sc, ch 1, sc}, 3 sc, {sc, ch 1, sc}, 2 sc, sc-inc, 1 sc.
JSL and FOLLT (F112).

Top pocket (make 1)

Work in rows.

Rw 1 ch 6, 5 sc. CHT1 [5]

Rw 2 BLO 5 sc. CHT1 [5]
the cape. With pastel chalk in color dark brown
Rw 3 5 sc. CHT1 [5] and a thin brush, add some shadows around
Rw 4 sk 1, 2 sc, sc2tog. CHT1 [3] each pocket (F113). This step is optional.
Rw 5 sk 1, sc2tog. FOLLT. [1] If you see that the cape opens itself in the middle,
you can add any snap or Velcro fastener to
Sew the bottom pockets at each side of the avoid this (F114).
cape, and the top pocket at the right top side of
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 32 Harry Potter

yarn (image F116 is for reference of how it looks

Gloves (make 2) like), because I needed something that looked

furry. I used a 4.5mm crochet hook for this yarn.
You can use any yarn you have that looks like it
Start with light brown or that is furry or fluffy and thick and a crochet
hook according to it. You can even use the same
R1 mr, 6 sc [6] yarn and crochet hook that you used for the rest
R2 6 sc-inc [12] of the doll if you can’t get a similar yarn.
R3 sc-inc, 11 sc [13] To make these pads make mr and 9 hdc inside
of it. Then JSL and FO (F117).
R 4-6 13 sc (3 rounds) [13]
As you can see, just making those few stitches
R7 pc5, 12 sc [13] gave a perfect circle for the size of my doll’s ear
R8 Ch 3 and make a dc in the last [20] and head, but in your case, depending on the
st, then make: (dc, dc-inc)x6 type of yarn you use, that count of stitches and
JSL and FO (F115). rounds can change, so in this part, more than
following a pattern, you need to keep in mind
that you can add more stitches or more rounds
depending on the yarn and crochet hook you
use. In the image F118 you have a picture of how
the crocheted circle should be with respect to
the head. Make sure it is about that size.
Make two circles like that.
To make the inner part of the pads, use the same
type of yarn and crochet as the rest of the doll.
Make two of this.
F115
Start with dark brown

R1 mr, 7 sc [7]
R2 7 sc-inc [14]
R3 (sc, sc-inc)x7 [21]
FO (F119).

F116 F117

Earmuffs
Pads (make 2)
To make the pads, which will cover the ears, I
used a special yarn called Acrylic Bouclé or soft
Bouclé in dark brown. It is a fairly thick and fluffy
Harry Potter Pag. 33
Calypso BOUTIQUEE

F118 F119 Glue the inner part of the pads over wire joining
with UHU universal glue or any liquid silicone you
have (F128).
Finally you should have earmuffs like in F129. Fold
the earmuffs to the shape of the doll’s head to fit
them (F130).

F120 F121

Headband
Fold on side of a piece of wire (F120) and measure
roughly the contour of the head, for this you
must put the tip fold over one ear and fold the
wire over the head so that it is like a headband,
then measure up to where the other ear is and
add about 2 inches to make the second fold of
the wire. When you have this measured cut the F122 F123
wire.
With the same yarn and crochet hook as the
rest of the project, in beige color, chain 49 or the
number of chains that the wire measures minus
the 2 inches of the fold. Then make 48 sc or the
number of sc that gives you the length of the
base chain.
You have to work the single crochet stitches
together with the wire so that the wire is inside F124 F125
the single crochet stitches (F121-F122). In F123
you can see that the single crochet stitches do
not go all the way to the end of the wire, because
that is where the wire is going to be folded.
Then without cutting yarn, continue along the
bottom of the base chain stitch and make 48slst
or the same number of sc you made before
(F124).
When you get to the end, JSL to the first sc and F126 F127
FOLLT (F125).
Then fold the other end of the wire that had not
been folded before, in the same way as the first
fold. (F126).
Sew each pad to each end of the headband,
passing the strand through the inside of the wire
loop until it is securely fastened (F127).
Calypso BOUTIQUEE
Pag. 34 Harry Potter

F128 second one. You are going to stop crocheting

here for a moment and start making the roots in
the arms and legs.
Insert your hook in the magic ring you made
of every part (both arms and legs), and pull
out the starting thread (F131-F132). Then cut a
piece of yarn and make a knot at one end (F133)
and insert it in every leg and arm and pull the
thread through the magic ring (F134). Repeat
F129 F130 this in both arms and legs. Once you have these
two threads out, fray them into smaller threads
(F135). Cut the threads at the end to match the
long if you need it. Now continue with the body.

Body and head

Remember, do not cut the yarn of the 2nd leg. For
the 5th round, ch 3 and join to the first leg making
a sc (F136), this st will be the beginning of every
round. Then make 5 sc more in the next sts of the
leg, 3 sc over the chains, 6 sc on the other leg
Mandrake and 3 sc over the foundation chains (this is the
same technique used for Harry’s legs joining).
All the mandrake, except for the leaves, is worked You will have 18 sc. Now make:
in the same color.

F131 F132
Arms (make 2)
Start with almond brown color

R1 mr, 4 sc [4]
R2 4 sc [4]
R3 3 sc, sc-inc [5]
R4 5 sc. FOLLT [5]
F133 F134
Legs (make 2)

R1 mr, 4 sc [4]
R2 3 sc, sc-inc [5]
R3 4 sc, sc-inc [6]
R4 6 sc [6]
Fasten off just one leg, do not cut the yarn of the
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R6 7 sc, sc-inc, 8 sc, sc-inc, sc [20] F135 F136

R7 20 sc [20]
R8 (3 sc, sc2tog)x4 [16]
R9 16 sc [16]
R 10 (2 sc, sc2tog)x4 [12]
You must have
R 11 (sc, sc2tog)x4 [8] 4 like this

R 12 FLO 8 sc-inc [16]

R 13 (sc, sc-inc)x8 [24] F137

R 14 24 sc [24]
R 15 (2 sc, sc2tog, 2 sc)x4 [20]
R 16 (3 sc, sc2tog)x4 [16]
R 17 16 sc [16]
R 18 (sc, sc2tog, sc)x4 [12]
R 19 6 sc2tog [6]
Now you will make the roots of the head. Join both F138 F139
ends of the round 19, inserting your hook in two
stitches at a time (F137) and make a slst there.
Then ch 5 and 4 slst, join with slst to the head
(F138-F139), inserting your hook in the same way,
in two stitches at a time, then ch 6 and 5 slst
again, join with slst to the head. Finally ch 4 and
3 slst, join with slst to the head (F140-F141). FO.

F140 F141
Leaves (make 6)
Work all around the foundation chains.

Start with green

Ch 7, and start in the 2nd ch from your hook: 1slst,

1 sc, 2dc, 1 sc, {slst, ch 1, slst} in the last ch. Now
make on the other side of the chains: sc, 2dc,
1 sc, 1 slst. JSL to the 1st st and ch 2. See graphic 7
(F142).
Graphic 7
FO just 3 leaves, and leave the other 3 ones
unfinished. With the crochet hook in one
unfinished leaf, make a slst in the last chain of
the finished leaf (F143), to join them together.
Now FOLLT the leaf. Repeat the same with the
remaining leaves. There should be 3 groups of
two leaves each. (F144).
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Pag. 36 Harry Potter

F142 F143 F148 F149

F144 F145

Plant pot
Work in joined rounds.

Start with terracotta

R1 mr, 8 sc. JCH1 [8]

Assembly
R2 8 sc-inc. JCH2 [16]
With the long tail of leaves and a needle, sew
R3 (hdc, hdc-inc)x8. JCH1 [24]
each pair of leaves to a root of the head (F145),
so that they are joined by the last chains you R4 24 BPsc. JCH1 [24]
made (F146). Cut and hide the remaining tail. R5 (5 sc, sc-inc)x4. JCH1 [28]
Embroider with light green thread, the stripes on Cut a piece of cardboard the size of the bottom
the leaves (F147). of the pot and glue it to the bottom of it. (F150).
Sew both arms to the body, just below the head. R 6-7 28 sc (2 rounds). JCH1 [28]
Glue the 3mm safety eyes to the head. Embroider
R8 (6 sc, sc-inc)x4. JCH1 [32]
eyelids above eyes with the same thread of the
mandrake (F148). R 9-10 32 sc (2 rounds). JCH1 [32]
Add some shadow with pastel chalk or R 11 (7 sc, sc-inc)x4. JCH1 [36]
eyeshadow in brown color all over the mandrake, R 12 36 sc. JCH1 [36]
including the roots, simulating this way that
R 13 FLO 36 sc. JCH1 [36]
it is coming out of the ground, and add a little
shadow on the face to simulate a mouth (F149). R 14 BLO 36 sc. JCH1 [36]
R 15 36 sc. JSL and FO. [36]
F146 F147
You can add a bit of pastel chalk to add some
shadow to the pot.
I have a video where I show how to make all the
details of the pot. Here is the link for you to take
a look.
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F150 F151 F152

Finishing touches
Add some blush to Harry’s cheeks with a soft
brush.

Scar
Embroider Harry’s scar on his forehead with
embroidery thread in burgundy color. Embroider
it in the space left on his forehead (F151).

Glasses
Roll a piece of black wire around anything that
has a cylinder shape (I used the handle of a
brush), make a loop, then leave a piece (which
will be the nose mount), and make a loop again.
Fold each end. Glue the glasses to the face.
Here’s a video for you to watch with the step by
step

The only difference between these glasses

and the ones shown in F152, is that I made the
last ones with silver wire instead of black, and
covered each circle with black thread.
If you want to make the herbology shovels
(which are not crocheted), here is a video where
I show you how to make them.
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Pag. 38 Harry Potter

And that's all!

I hope you enjoy!
Happy crocheting!

Do not forget to mention me in your networks

if you make my Harry, I would be very happy to
see your work.

And remember that you can not share the

pattern, doing that, you help me to make nice
things for you in the future!