The Journal of The Textile Institute

ISSN: 0040-5000 (Print) 1754-2340 (Online) Journal homepage: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/tjti20

Comparison of artificial neural network and

adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system for
predicting the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics

Tanveer Hussain, Zulfiqar Ali Malik, Zain Arshad & Ahsan Nazir

To cite this article: Tanveer Hussain, Zulfiqar Ali Malik, Zain Arshad & Ahsan Nazir (2015)
Comparison of artificial neural network and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system for
predicting the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 106:9,
934-938, DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2014.953790

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2014.953790

Published online: 01 Sep 2014.

Submit your article to this journal

Article views: 90

View related articles

View Crossmark data

Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at

http://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=tjti20

Download by: [National Textile University] Date: 24 January 2016, At: 23:24
 The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2015
Vol. 106, No. 9, 934–938, http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2014.953790

Comparison of artificial neural network and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system for
predicting the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics
Tanveer Hussain, Zulfiqar Ali Malik, Zain Arshad and Ahsan Nazir*
Faculty of Engineering & Technology, National Textile University Faisalabad, Pakistan
(Received 23 April 2014; accepted 7 August 2014)

The aim of this study was to compare the artificial neural network (ANN) and adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system
(ANFIS) models for predicting the wrinkle recovery of polyester/cotton woven fabrics. The prediction models were
developed using experimental data-set of 115 fabric samples of different constructions. Warp and weft yarn linear
densities, ends/25 mm and picks/25 mm, were used as input/predictor variables, and warp and weft crease recovery
Downloaded by [National Textile University] at 23:24 24 January 2016

angles (CRA) as output/response variables. It was found that the prediction accuracy of the ANN models was slightly
better as compared with that of ANFIS models developed in this study. However, the ANFIS models could characterize
the relationships between the input and output variables through surface plots, which the ANN models could not. The
developed models may be used to optimize the fabric construction parameters for maximizing the wrinkle recovery of
polyester/cotton woven fabrics.
Keywords: wrinkle recovery; woven fabric; prediction; ANN; ANFIS

Introduction Although wrinkle recovery is a major concern for 100%

Wrinkle recovery is the ability of a fabric to recover from
any folding deformation (Farnfield & Alvey, 1978). It is
one of the key properties desirable in fabrics used for
apparel, to enhance their visual esthetics as well as
easy-care properties. Different fiber, yarn, and fabric
properties as well as the fabric finishing parameters are
known to affect the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics.
Fiber type, its cross-section (Omeroglu, Karaca, &
Becerir, 2010) and inter-fiber friction have been identified
as important factors affecting the wrinkle recovery in
fabrics (Daniels, 1960). Yarn twist level and inter-fiber
cohesion within the yarn structure also affect the
fabric wrinkle recovery properties (Gokarneshana,
Subramaniam, & Anbumani, 2008; Steele, 1956). The
effect of various fabric parameters on the wrinkle recovery
properties of woven fabrics has also been reported in
various studies (Jameson, Whittier, & Schiefer, 1952;
Krasny, Mallory, Phillips, & Sookne, 1955; Nassif, 2012;
Vasile, Ciesielska-Wrobel, & Langenhove, 2012).
There have been a few attempts in the past to model
the wrinkle recovery behavior of woven fabrics. A
theoretical model comprising a frictional element in
parallel with a generalized linear viscoelastic element was
proposed by Chapman (1974). Some improvements in the
Chapman’s model have also been proposed (Shi, Hu, &
Yu, 2000; Shi & Wang, 2009). However, little work has
been reported on the development of empirical models for
predicting the wrinkle recovery of woven fabrics.
cotton fabrics, but the polyester/cotton blended fabrics
with substantial amount of cotton also have poor wrinkle
recovery. This study is based on 52:48 blend ratio of
polyester/cotton fabrics which have poor wrinkle recovery
as compared with 65:35 polyester/cotton blended fabrics.
Artificial neural networks (ANN) have been applied
extensively in modeling and predicting textile behavior
(Chattopadhyay & Guha, 2004; Vassiliadis, Rangoussi,
Cay, & Provatidis, 2010). Some recent studies on the
application of ANN in predicting textile behavior
include: prediction of tensile properties of cotton/spandex
core-spun yarns (Almetwally, Idrees, & Hebeish, 2014),
prediction of tensile strength of polyester/cotton-blended
woven fabrics (Malik, Haleem, Malik, & Tanwari, 2012),
prediction of thermal resistance of woven fabrics (Mitra,
Majumdar, Majumdar, & Bannerjee, 2013), prediction of
UV radiation protection of polyester/cotton-blended
fabrics (Hatua, Majumdar, & Das, 2013), and prediction
of drape profile of woven fabrics (Pattanayak, Luximon,
& Khandual, 2011).
Adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference systems (ANFIS)
have also been used quite successfully in recent years
for predicting different properties of fabrics including:
bursting strength of knitted fabrics (Jamshaid, Hussain,
& Malik, 2013), load-extension behavior of woven
fabrics (Hadizadeh & Jeddi, 2010), and bending rigidity
of woven fabrics (Behera & Guruprasad, 2012). The aim
of this study was to develop and compare the ANN and

*Corresponding author. Email: ahsanpd@gmail.com

© 2014 The Textile Institute

 The Journal of The Textile Institute 935

ANFIS models for predicting the wrinkle recovery of Table 2. Variables and range of values used.
polyester/cotton woven fabrics.
Range of values Range of values
(on-loom (fabric after
fabric) desizing)
Materials and methods
Predictor variables Min. Max. Min. Max.
One hundred and twenty-eight (128) fabric samples were
woven on Sulzer weaving machine (P 7150) in 3/1 twill Warp count, tex 15 25 15 26
weave design using polyester/cotton (52/48) blended Weft count, tex 15 25 15 26
yarns in both warp and weft. Yarn specifications are Ends/25 mm 40 80 41 85
Picks/25 mm 40 80 41 85
given in Table 1. All the fabric samples were desized on
jigger machine using 5 g/L amylases enzyme at 5.5 pH
and 60°C temperature for 30 min, followed by rinsing weaving. The fabric constructions selected in this study
and drying. After desizing, the fabric specimens were are those which are not only practically feasible in
placed in hot air oven for preconditioning at a weaving, but also cover a broad range of areal density
temperature of 47 °C and relative humidity of 10–25% for different end uses.
for 4 h, and then for conditioning for 24 h in standard
Downloaded by [National Textile University] at 23:24 24 January 2016

atmospheric conditions according to ASTM D 1776.

After conditioning the samples, actual fabric Development of ANN models
constructions including warp yarn linear density, weft The ANN Toolbox of MATLAB R2008b was used for
yarn linear density, ends per 25 mm and picks per developing the ANN models. Two ANN models were
25 mm, were determined again, because these may have designed separately for warp-way and weft-way CRA
changed after any possible shrinkage during desizing. prediction. ANNwp was developed for the prediction of
Total number of warp warp-way CRA, while ANNwt for weft-way CRA. The
Yarns and weft yarns in 25 mm length were most important component of ANN modeling is the
counted according to ASTM D 3775. Linear density of network architecture, including number of neurons, hidden
the warp and weft yarns was determined according to layers, and training functions, which is optimized through
ASTM D 1059-01. The crease recovery angle (CRA) trial and error. In this study, networks developed for both
of the fabric specimens was tested according to the warp and weft-way wrinkle recovery were single-
AATCC Test Method 66. layered feed-forward back propagation networks, which
Out of the total 128 fabric samples, the data of 115 are one of the most commonly used ANN. The number of
samples (Table 2) were used for developing the hidden neurons for both the models was four. Both the
prediction models, while the data of remaining 13 networks were trained with ‘trainlm’ function which uses
samples were selected for validation of the models as Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm. However, the network
hidden data-set. In order to get higher productivity and a architecture, including number of neurons, hidden layers
balanced fabric structure, number of picks in woven and training functions, was optimized through trial and
fabrics is always kept lower or equal to the number of error. In this study, 115 total input–output patterns each for
ends in the fabric. If a statistical experimental design warp- and weft-way wrinkle recovery were divided into
such as full factorial is used, then there are some fabric training, testing and validation sets as 70, 15, and 15%,
samples which have more number of picks than the respectively. The network performance function was set to
ends, which are practically not feasible to produce in ‘mse’ which validates the performance on basis of mean
squared error.
Table 1. Yarn specifications. Backpropagation is a gradient descent algorithm and
Linear density (tex) supervised form of learning from the input and output
pattern of data given to the network. Backpropagation
S. no Specification 15 20 25
feed-forward networks work on the principle of
1 Actual linear density (tex) 14.66 19.77 24.86 adjustment of initially set network weights according to
2 Linear density CV % 1.23 1.54 1.25 the given output by each observation presented during
3 CVm % 15.74 17.24 15.19 training session. The weight adjustment process
4 CVb % 1.70 1.97 2.75
5 Hairiness 5.79 6.16 6.72
continues until the training error attains the minimum
6 Imperfection 956 785 731 possible value. The change in the weights of the network
7 Breaking force (CN) 272.47 391.82 537.93 input variables is governed by the rule given in the
8 CV for breaking force % 9.45 8.90 8.50 following equation:
9 Breaking tenacity (CN/tex) 18.59 19.82 18.59
10 Breaking elongation % 7.25 7.96 8.19
11 CV for elongation % 9.85 9.90 10.10 DW ji ¼ Kdpj ipi ;
 936 T. Hussain et al.

where Δp Wji represents the change to be carried out in
the weight of the link that is connecting the ith and jth
units when the p pattern is given to the network for
training. The constant K represents the learning rate of
the neural network; δpj is the error between the target
and actual output, while ipi is the value of the ith
element of the input pattern (Wang & Fu, 2008).
Development of ANFIS models
The same data-set that was used for developing the
ANN model was used for developing the ANFIS model.
The ANFIS models were also developed using
MATLAB R2008b. Figure 1 shows the structure of the
developed ANFIS.
The ANFIS structure consists of four input variables,
Downloaded by [National Textile University] at 23:24 24 January 2016
determined by the ANFIS. Figures 2 and 3 show that the
warp CRA increases with increase in ends/25 mm, while
the weft CRA improves with increase in picks/25 mm.
The results are in agreement with a previous study (Mori
& Matsudaira, 2007). As the number of yarns in a fabric
direction increases, their collective resistance to
wrinkling and ability to recover from wrinkling in that
direction also increases. The interpolations of the surface
plots in Figures 2 and 3 need to be carefully interpreted.
Valid conclusions can only be drawn by considering
those parts of the surface plots where the number of
ends is equal or greater than the number of picks, since
there were no fabric samples in the database which had
more number of picks than the ends. Such fabrics with
more number of picks than the ends are not
commercially manufactured in textile mills, because of

viz. warp tex, weft tex, ends/25 mm, picks/25 mm, each low productivity in weaving as the weaving productivity
with three triangular membership functions (MF). There depends on the number of picks inserted per unit time.
is one output variable i.e. CRA, each for warp and weft Therefore, such samples were not manufactured and
fabric directions. Both the ANFIS models for warp and included in the study.
weft are based on 81 if-then rules of the form:
If w is A1, x is B1, y is C1, and D1 is z, then
output = k1w + k2x + k3y + k4z + k5 where w, x, y, and
z are inputs; A, B C, and D are fuzzy MF for
corresponding inputs; and k1, k2, k3, k4, and k5 are
constants determined by training the model. The Sugeno-
type fuzzy inference systemwas generated using grid
partition method, and the training of the system was
accomplished using hybrid learning algorithm which
applies a combination of least-squares method and the
backpropagation gradient descent method. The number
and type of MFs for different inputs were determined
through trial and error to result in a model with good fit
and prediction accuracy of unknown input values.

Results and discussion

The relationships between the inputs and the output Figure 2. Effect of ends and picks on warp CRA.
variables were characterized through surface plots as

Figure 1. ANFIS structure. Figure 3. Effect of ends and picks on weft CRA.
 The Journal of The Textile Institute 937

Figure 3 depicts that at 50 ends/25 mm, increase in

picks/25 mm from 50 to 80 does not result in any
increase in CRA. This is not a valid conclusion since in
actual there were no samples in which picks were
greater than the ends. The surface plot in Figure 3
corresponding only to 80 ends/25 mm should be
considered to make valid conclusions, since in the
sample database, all the fabric samples either had less
number of picks than the ends or equal. Considering this
part of the surface plot in Figure 3, it can be concluded
that with increase in number of picks, the wrinkle
resistance of the fabric in weft direction increases
Figures 4 and 5 show that increase in warp yarn tex
improves the warp CRA and increase in weft yarn tex
Figure 5. Effect of warp and weft tex on weft CRA.
results in increase in weft CRA. As the yarn becomes
coarser with increase in tex, its bending rigidity
Downloaded by [National Textile University] at 23:24 24 January 2016

increases leading to increase in its resistance to
wrinkling and improved recovery from wrinkling. The
yarns with higher tex are thicker and larger in diameter.
Fabrics made from thicker yarns offer more resistance to
the formation of wrinkles as compared with those made
from the thinner yarns. When thicker yarns are bent
under pressing load for wrinkling, they tend to recover
back because of better resilience. Hence, the fabrics
made from higher tex yarns give overall better wrinkle
recovery results.

Validation of the prediction models

Out of 128 fabrics samples, 13 each were used to check
the validity of the developed models for warp and weft
CRA. A comparison of actual CRA values and those
predicted by the developed ANN and ANFIS models is
shown in Table 3. The Pearson correlations between the
actual and the predicted warp CRA by the ANN and
Figure 4. Effect of warp and weft tex on warp CRA. ANFIS models were found to be 0.974 (P-value 0.000)

Table 3. Comparison of actual and predicted CRA values.

Warp CRA Weft CRA

Absolute error Absolute error
Predicted % Predicted %
No. Warp tex Weft tex E P Actual ANN ANFIS ANN ANFIS Actual ANN ANFIS ANN ANFIS
1 15 15 75 44 91 93 98 2 8 64 63 69 1.6 7.8
2 15 21 84 83 117 111 126 5 8 139 134 142 3.6 2.2
3 15 26 72 43 87 86 87 1 0 72 78 78 8.3 8.3
4 15 26 81 65 105 104 104 1 1 108 111 114 2.8 5.6
5 21 15 75 53 97 96 95 1 2 76 80 80 5.3 5.3
6 21 15 81 43 105 108 106 3 1 68 66 65 2.9 4.4
7 21 21 61 42 85 84 78 1 8 71 73 76 2.8 7.0
8 21 21 83 64 115 112 110 3 4 101 100 93 1.0 7.9
9 21 26 73 54 96 92 94 4 2 91 88 88 3.3 3.3
10 26 15 63 42 96 96 105 0 9 66 70 71 6.1 7.6
11 26 15 76 63 120 119 117 1 3 90 87 85 3.3 5.6
12 26 15 83 63 130 134 126 3 3 87 87 79 0.0 9.2
13 26 21 74 53 109 115 110 6 1 82 77 74 6.1 9.8
Mean 20.6 19.3 75.5 54.8 104.1 103.8 104.3 2.4 3.8 85.8 85.7 85.7 3.6 6.5
 938 T. Hussain et al.
and 0.931 (P-value 0.000), respectively. The Pearson
correlations between the actual and the predicted weft
CRA by the ANN and ANFIS models were found to be
0.986 (P-value 0.000) and 0.962 (P-value 0.000),
respectively. Overall, ANN models were found to exhibit
less absolute error (%) as compared with the ANFIS
models.
Conclusion
ANN and ANFIS models were developed for predicting
the warp and weft CRAs of polyester/cotton woven fabrics
by taking warp and weft yarn linear densities, ends/25 mm
and picks/25 mm, as predictor variables. It was found that
the fabric wrinkle recovery in warp or weft direction
increases with increase in yarn linear density and the
Downloaded by [National Textile University] at 23:24 24 January 2016
fabric density in that direction. It was found that both the
ANN and ANFIS models have the ability to predict warp
and weft wrinkle recovery with very good accuracy, with
ANN models being slightly better in performance. The
developed models could be used for optimizing the woven
fabric wrinkle recovery through appropriate selection of
the fabric construction parameters.
References
Almetwally, A. A., Idrees, H. M., & Hebeish, A. A. (2014).
Predicting the tensile properties of cotton/spandex core-
spun yarns using artificial neural network and linear
regression models. The Journal of The Textile Institute,
105, 1–9.
Behera, B., & Guruprasad, R. (2012). Predicting bending
rigidity of woven fabrics using adaptive neuro-fuzzy
inference system (ANFIS). The Journal of The Textile
Institute, 103, 1205–1212.
Chapman, B. (1974). A model for the crease recovery of
fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 44, 531–538.
Chattopadhyay, R., & Guha, A. (2004). Artificial neural
networks: Applications to textiles. Textile Progress, 35,
1–46.
Daniels, W. (1960). Relationship between fiber properties and
fabric wrinkle recovery. Textile Research Journal, 30,
656–661.
Farnfield, C., & Alvey, P. (1978). Textile terms and definitions
(5th ed.). Manchester, NH: Redwood Burn.
Gokarneshana, N., Subramaniam, V., & Anbumani, N. (2008).
Influence of material and process parameters on the inter-
fibre cohesion in ring-spun yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre
& Textile Research, 33, 203–212.
Hadizadeh, M., & Jeddi, A. A. (2010). Application of an
adaptive neuro-fuzzy system for prediction of initial load –
Extension behavior of plain-woven fabrics. Textile
Research Journal, 80, 981–990.
Hatua, P., Majumdar, A., & Das, A. (2013). Predicting the
ultraviolet radiation protection by polyester–cotton blended
woven fabrics using nonlinear regression and artificial neural
network models. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and
Photomedicine, 29, 182–189.
Jameson, L. H., Whittier, B. L., & Schiefer, H. F. (1952).
Factors affecting the properties of rayon fabrics. Textile
Research Journal, 22, 599–608.
Jamshaid, H., Hussain, T., & Malik, Z. A. (2013). Comparison
of regression and adaptive neuro-fuzzy models for
predicting the bursting strength of plain knitted fabrics.
Fibers and Polymers, 14, 1203–1207.
Krasny, J., Mallory, G., Phillips, J., & Sookne, A. (1955). Part
II: Effect of construction on crease recovery of fortisan
fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 25, 499–506.
Malik, Z. A., Haleem, N., Malik, M. H., & Tanwari, A. (2012).
Predicting the tensile strength of polyester/cotton blended
woven fabrics using feed forward back propagation
artificial neural networks. Fibers and Polymers, 13,
1094–1100.
Mitra, A., Majumdar, A., Majumdar, P. K., & Bannerjee, D.
(2013). Predicting thermal resistance of cotton fabrics by
artificial neural network model. Experimental Thermal and
Fluid Science, 50, 172–177.
Mori, M., & Matsudaira, M. (2007, August). The effect of
weave density on fabric handle and appearance of men’s
suit fabrics. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 11,
71–80.
Nassif, G. A. A. (2012). Effect of weave structure and weft
density on the physical and mechanical properties of
micro polyester woven fabrics. Life Science Journal, 9,
1326–1331.
Omeroglu, S., Karaca, E., & Becerir, B. (2010). Comparison of
bending, drapability and crease recovery behaviors of
woven fabrics produced from polyester fibers having
different cross-sectional shapes. Textile Research Journal,
80, 1180–1190.
Pattanayak, A. K., Luximon, A., & Khandual, A. (2011).
Prediction of drape profile of cotton woven fabrics using
artificial neural network and multiple regression method.
Textile Research Journal, 81, 559–566.
Shi, F. J., Hu, J., & Yu, T. (2000). Modeling the creasing
properties of woven fabrics. Textile Research Journal, 70,
247–255.
Shi, F., & Wang, Y. (2009). Modelling crease recovery
behaviour of woven fabrics. The Journal of The Textile
Institute, 100, 218–222.
Steele, R. (1956). The effect of yarn twist on fabric crease
recovery. Textile Research Journal, 26, 739–744.
Vasile, S., Ciesielska-Wrobel, I. L., & Langenhove, L. (2012).
Wrinkle recovery of flax fabrics with embedded
superelastic shape memory alloys wires. Fibres & Textiles
in Eastern Europe, 20, 56–61.
Vassiliadis, V., Rangoussi, M., Cay, A., & Provatidis, C.
(2010). Artificial neural networks and their applications in
the engineering of fabrics, woven fabric engineering,
Polona Dobnik Dubrovski (1st ed.). Rijeka: Intechopen.
ISBN: 978-953-307-194-7.
Wang, L. & Fu, K. (2008). Artificial neural networks. Artificial
neural networks, Wiley encyclopedia of computer science
and engineering (pp. 181–188). Malden, MA: John Wiley
& Sons.