Ocspa

LNE & Spathe magazine for skin care and spa professionals
October 2011
$7.50
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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card
ls
CONTENTS
Spots Be Gone!
winning the war against hyperpigmentation page 46
&
OCTOBER 2011 V OL U ME 26
spa
N U M B ER 1 0
Autumn Body Essentials

scrubs, blends and moisturizers page 66
skin
No Longer Stuck in the Mud A Balancing Act Fall Into Brightening Electrotherapy Melasma Spots Be Gone! Frosting Versus Blanching Understanding and Correcting Sun Damage Skin News
31 32 35 38 43 46 51 54 59
spa
Meridian Magic Spa News
Create a Luxurious, Impeccable Lavatory Autumn Body Essentials
65 66 72 77
Heat Up Your Fall Menu

without burning a hole in your budget page 90
green spa
Pure, Clean Water Sabai Wellness Center Autumn Delights Green Spa News
103 104 107 109
business
Autumn Delights
top 10 beauty foods of fall page 107
Quality Customer Service: The Key To Online Success 81 Q&A With Joanna Vargas 82 Turn Over A New Leaf 86 Heat Up Your Fall Menu 90 Avoiding Employee Termination Layering Technology Biz News
93 96 99
extras
Face It!
page 117
image
Eyelash Hygiene Safety Fall Makeup Trends Face It! Age Is Just A Number Image News
113 115 117 119 121
From the Editor 6 Spa of the Month: Studio 55 Day Spa & Salon, Laredo, TX 10 Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia, PA 23 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers Index 130
Cover
courtesy of Franck Provost
Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publishers Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
Page 4 www.LNEONLINE.com
Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa October 2011
Natural antioxidants and pore refinement.

pumpkin extracts carrot extracts glycolic acid
Beautiful Results with Pumpkin
from the
editor
I
T IS ALWAYS IMPORTANT TO KEEP UP WITH the latest research and information that affects your business. LNE & Spa brings you closer to everything thats happening right now in the spa and skin care industry. Strategies, techniques and treatments that target hyperpigmentation and antiaging services are the focus of Octobers issue. By offering results-oriented treatments, your practice will grow and business will thrive! Veteran and industry expert Mario Montalvo recently had the opportunity to meet and interview the powerhouse couple behind the unique Studio 55 in Laredo, TX. A key component of the establishments longevity and success is the owners attention to the smallest detailsand making sure they exceed client expectations! Learn more about our October Spa of the Month starting on page 10. With the seasonal weather changes of the fall, you may want to offer signature and custom body treatments. Marcia Fialdini shares some great recipe ideas in her article Autumn Body Essentials, starting on page 66. Keith West-Harrison tells you how you can Heat Up Your Fall Menu (without burning a hole in your budget) on page 90. On a closing note, make sure you take the time to invest in yourself this fall by attending The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in the beautiful and historic Philadelphia, PA on October 23 and 24. The expertise to be shared by the keynote speakers at the General Session and specialized seminars is not to be missed! There will be opportunities to network with other professionals and exciting new vendorsand check out the latest products and equipment to update your business and services. The final International Congress of Esthetics and Spa conference of 2011 is a great place to re-ignite your passion for our industry! Have a fantastic month and enjoy the changes and colors of fall! n
advanced Rejuvenating concepts
Warm the senses and relax the mind with AdvAnCed RejuvenAting ConCepts pumpkin fACiAl treatment. A must-have service for the fall season. the renowned pumpkin peel ContAins A 30% glyColiC ACid With RejuvenAting pumpkin Wine And fRuit enzymes for a naturally oxygenating peel treatment. this acid-enzyme blend promotes improved skin tone and texture for most all skin types, including sensitive skin. Anti-inflAmmAtoRy And AntioxidAnt benefits from pumpkins can be achieved at home with the natural fRuitzyme pumpkin system. pumpkin and carrot extracts are complimented with centella, willowherb, chamomile and moRe foR A Result-oRiented Regimen. discover the science of skin rejuvenation! arcskincare.com | toll Free: 800 689-0499
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Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com
Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #206
3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 www.lneonline.com e-mail: tradeshows@lneonline.com subscriptions@lneonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@lneonline.com Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller denise@lneonline.com Art Director Sacha Smith sacha@lneonline.com Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@lneonline.com Director of Sales Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Marketing Director Christle de La Haye christele@lneonline.com Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo laura@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Assistant Mayli Bueno mayli@lneonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Mark Lees, Ph.D. Lydia Sarfati Rob Trow Lake Louise Nina Curtis Diane Buccola
work smarter
not harder.
Contributors
Samuella Becker Linda Bertaut Ann Brown Michelle DAllaird Marcia Fialdini Tammy Finch Gena Flores Karla Hirkaler Hannelore Leavy Brenda Linday Dan Lok Lake Louise Janel Luu Ellie Malmin Danae Markland Mario Montalvo Flynn Marie Pyykkonen Linda Rae Lydia Sarfati Barbara Schumann Judith Stanton Pam Stellema David Suzuki Sherry Taylor Keith West-Harrison Jennifer Wild, D.O. Noreen Young
Advance Hand Held Tools

bio-therapeutic.com 800.971.6259
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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SPA
OF THE BORDER TOWN BEAUTY MONTH STUDIO 55 DAY SPA & SALON, LAREDO, TX
by Mario Montalvo
HE WORD PIONEER HAS BECOME somewhat hackneyed, but in the case of Marisela and Robert Higgins, it is true to its meaning and eminently suitableespecially since they decided to open Studio 55 Day Spa & Salon in Laredo, TX. Laredo is a border town on the southernmost tip of the Lone Star State, across from Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas, Mexico. According to the 2010 census, the city population was 236,091, making it the second largest city on the TexasMexico border, and the third largest on the United States-Mexico border after San Diego, CA, and El Paso, TX.
Serendipity
Laredo is a city that is perhaps more social than contemplative, so the opening of a day spa by the Higgins was serendipity at its best. In 1985, on a flight from Acapulco to Los Angeles, Marisela and Robert Higgins met each other for the first time. Since then, the pair has been inseparable. As a couple for more than 25 years, business partners, and parents to their daughter Alexa, they compliment each other. Marisela is the creative one, with bilingual skills and extensive knowledge of public relations in the banking industry, while Robert provides his vast business expericontinues
spa of the month|studio 55 day spa & salon
ence garnered as the international vice president of Dennys for 26 years. They are the perfect yin and yang team. Their arrival in Laredo, which is not their original hometown, was the result of a business deal that Robert was working on that would take a year to finish. In the interim, Marisela wanted something to do, so her initial thought was to open a nail salon. Her vision expanded when she realized that Laredo had no day spa, though it would be a perfect location for one. She was looking for something innovative and unique to Laredo, so Marisela began researching the ins and outs of managing a day spa and salon. Initially, she spent an entire year completing courses in esthetics, massage therapy, hand and foot treatments and spa management, as well as visiting various spas throughout the country. In October 1998, Laredos first day spa opened its doors.
Transformation
Meticulous attention had gone into the building and furnishing of Studio 55 Day Spa & Salon. It has also undergone three transformations. The initial 1,500 square feet has now grown to 4,500 square feet, all within a period of three years. Upon entering two double doors, clients immediately begin an intriguing journey of the senses. The reception area/boutique spans the length of the spa, and is carefully sectioned off with areas dedicated to skin, hair and body products, as well as candles, sachets, accessories, etc., all with price points to suit every taste and pocketbook. There is even an area dedicated to costume jewelry. This all provides the customer with a desire to linger, book another service or purchase whatever is recommended for continuing the spa experience at home. The area is inviting, not intimidating. continues
Page 12 www.LNEONLINE.com Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa October 2011
Even though the salon offers nail and hair services, they are at opposite ends of the spa. Moreover, no services with offending odors are allowed. The entire atmosphere is geared to achieve perfect nirvana. Treatment rooms are aligned on the right and left sides of a corridor hallway brightened by soft lighting, with strategically situated scented candles and fresh flowers placed along the way. The changing rooms are also spacious, each with their own steam room, and well-appointed. Instead of the traditional lock and key, guests select their own password for their assigned locker.
There are also 11 types of body care services, including body wraps and peels, island hot stone wraps and an assortment of body scrubs.
The meticulous attention paid to hygiene and sanitation is immediately noticeable; it is well above the standards of a hospitals surgical room. Marisela ensures that the standard is met in each and every area of the spa, enforced by a three-person maintenance team. Facial rooms are spartan, with cutting-edge equipment and formulations and comfortable, hydraulic-controlled tables. There is no clutter or intrusive lighting.
Ample options
The menu of services is varied and extensive, addressing every area from head to toe. It reads like a provocative smorgasbord, which entices clients to experience the many others available after they try one service. The menu, which is updated on a regular basis, covers 10 styles of body massage, from reflexology to aromatherapy, to 20-minute neck and shoulder massages for time-pressed clients. In the near future, the spa will introduce a new massage service named A-Shiatsu, which entails the operator holding onto an overhead pole while rendering the treatment with their feet. There are also 11 types of body care services, including body wraps and peels, island hot continues
Feel, Smell, and See the Difference!
Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself
stone wraps and an assortment of body scrubs. The spa also offers laser cellulite reduction and Endermologie treatments for the entire body, or specially targeted for problem areas. In the area of facial care, the menu lists 14 different services ranging from dermabrasion, chemical and enzyme peels, aromatherapy and anti-aging. Two forms of oxygen therapy can also be included with any of the services, such as a Hyperbaric Oxygen Facial, which complements an enzyme treatment or microdermabrasion. Another unique feature is the spas Thermal M machine, a cocoon-like structure that provides all the benefits of a self-contained Vichy shower, steam, water massage, and helps to prep the client for a following treatment, or remove any residue of body wraps or scrubs. It provides hot and cool temperatures, which makes it ideal for a slimming or detoxifying treatment, or for use prior to any body treatment. In short, nothing is left to chance in Studio 55 Day Spa & Salon. There is also a downtime area for relaxation between treatments where clients can also enjoy their spa lunch. Quality control is maintained throughout all the services and targeted to ensure maximum client protection, at all times. The Hand and continues
BUSINESS BUZZ
SO HOW DO SPA OWNERS MARISELA AND ROBERT make their day spa successful in todays economic atmosphere? Check out their business secrets and theories: The spa industry is surviving the recession relatively well, with average declines of less than 10 percent below 2007 revenues. What the future holds for the spa industry depends on two factors: (1) economic recovery, especially in unemployment, and (2) the ability of spa owners to be creative in the management of the changing conditions in their own market areas. Due to the massive growth of the industry, we must use our ingenuity to develop ways to maintain and grow our share of the market. It is no longer a matter of appealing to elite women between the ages of 25 and 55. Our menus and marketing must be structured to attract men, teenagers, working women and ethnic groups, as well as those who make up our core business. Spa owners who want to get out of the doldrums need to start implementing programs to broaden their client base.
Given the slowness of the economic recovery, the short-term future of the spa business is more dependent on owner creativity than on general economic conditions. Even if you own an upscale spa, you must not consider your services as special treats. The days of pampering are long gone. Clients want visible results related to their health and wellbeing, and they want it at a reasonable price. Spa owners need to educate their clients on the therapeutic benefits of treatments and the value of managing and preventing stress. Spa services should be considered as a lifestyle habit rather than a special treat or something to be used only because you received a gift certificate. The future of the spa industry depends on people of all ages placing a value on maintaining good health. Fortunately this is a positive trend that we see improving with each generation. It is up to the spa owner to take advantage of this trend by providing the best possible service on a high professional level that is perceived by the client to be an equitable value and investment in their well-being.
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Foot care area is also removed from the treatment rooms and it offers 13 different services. The pedicure chairs are ample and comfortable, but again sanitation has been the focus, as each chair offers its own twist. The foot baths are each self-contained and are outfitted with individual filling and drainage; each with its own set of pipes underneath the chair.
Down to business
It may appear that every stage of the spas development has evolved effortlessly, but to the contrary, Robert and Marisela faced formidable challenges, particularly in the area of staffing. However, they turned every challenge into an opportunity. Every new employee is tested for their level of expertise, gets acquainted with all the spa procedures, andwhen deemed necessaryis trained further locally or sent to specific classes in other cities. The owners goal has always been to maintain the highest standard of excellence in their area of expertise. This concept has paid off. The spa now does 1,900 services per month. At Studio 55 Day Spa & Salon, no particular service dominates the others. Also the quest to add new services that would suit the spas clientele never ends. Services are not chosen randomly or because something is popular. Careful deliberation is used before introducing a new procedure or phasing one out.
Making it
Independently and then eventually together, Marisela and Robert have navigated their way through becoming parents, professionals and successful entrepreneurs. This year, Marisela and Robert Higgins received the Junior Achievements 2011 Business Hall of Fame Laureates. They are living proof that anything is possible through hard work and perseverance. n Photography by Jacob Walters
Mario Montalvo is a consultant to the health and wellness industry. A licensed esthetics instructor, he has been active in beauty therapy for more than 35 years. He is a pioneer in esthetics and a CIDESCO Diplomate Dhonneur and International Examiner. He can be reached via email at mfloramont@att.net.
Foot care area is also removed from the treatment rooms and it offers 13 different services. The pedicure chairs are ample and comfortable, but again sanitation has been the focus, as each chair offers its own twist. The foot baths are each self-contained and are outfitted with individual filling and drainage; each with its own set of pipes underneath the chair.
Down to business
It may appear that every stage of the spas development has evolved effortlessly, but to the contrary, Robert and Marisela faced formidable challenges, particularly in the area of staffing. However, they turned every challenge into an opportunity. Every new employee is tested for their level of expertise, gets acquainted with all the spa procedures, andwhen deemed necessaryis trained further locally or sent to specific classes in other cities. The owners goal has always been to maintain the highest standard of excellence in their area of expertise. This concept has paid off. The spa now does 500 services per month. At Studio 55 Day Spa & Salon, no particular service dominates the others. Also the quest to add new services that would suit the spas clientele never ends. Services are not chosen randomly or because something is popular. Careful deliberation is used before introducing a new procedure or phasing one out.
Making it
Independently and then eventually together, Marisela and Robert have navigated their way through becoming parents, professionals and successful entrepreneurs. This year, Marisela and Robert Higgins received the Junior Achievements 2011 Business Hall of Fame Laureates. They are living proof that anything is possible through hard work and perseverance. n Photography by Jacob Walters
Mario Montalvo is a consultant to the health and wellness industry. A licensed esthetics instructor, he has been active in beauty therapy for more than 35 years. He is a pioneer in esthetics and a CIDESCO Diplomate Dhonneur and International Examiner. He can be reached via email at mfloramont@att.net.
the international congress of esthetics and spa
R E G I S T R AT I ON
ALL-INCLUSIVE
2 - DAY ADMISSION
1 - DAY ADMISSION
SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER by 09/30/11 2 - day admission is $75 after 09/30/11 1 - day admission is $50 after 09/30/11
60 $40
$
Presented by:
Exhibit Hall (including the Wellness & Organic Pavilion) All General Session Lectures and Demos Green/Wellness Summit In-Depth Makeup Class Advanced Salon/Spa Business Seminar Salon/Spa Management Seminar Medical Esthetic Seminar National Aesthetics Spa Network-NASN NEW Aesthetic International Association-AIA All Manufacturers Workshops All Demonstration Stages Green Spa Network Village NEW Spa Buzz Networking Event NEW
PHILADELPHIA N S Y L VA N I A
P E N N S Y L VA N I A C O N V E N T I O N C E N T E R
WAYS TO REGISTER:
INCLUSIVE! SEPARATE FEES
ALL NO
PHONE: 1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322 ONLINE: www.LNEONLINE.com E-MAIL: Registration@LNEONLINE.com FAX: 1.305.443.1664 MAIL: Aesthetic Expo 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, FL 33134
PEN
October 23 & 24,2011
prograM preVieW
Sponsored by:
CONTACT US TODAY FOR YOUR FREE SHOW PROGRAM: WWW.LNEONLINE.COM 1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322
Endorsed by:
Show hours: Sunday, October 23 from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Monday, October 24 from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Pennsylvania Convention Center 1101 Arch St. Philadelphia, PA 19107
hotel & traVel inforMation

HOTEL RATES PER NIGHT
$128
HAMPTON INN
Superior - Tourist Class
Single
Located across the street from the Convention Center
Rate includes deluxe continental breakfast
$128
Double
$138
Triple
$138
Quad
Standard Room
HILTON GARDEN INN

First Class
$149 $169
Junior Suite
$149 $169
$159 $179
$169 $189
Located across the street from the Convention Center
NON-SMOKING HOTEL
Double Triple
$169
Superior First Class National Register of Historic Places
Single
COURTYARD by MARRIOTT
Located 1 block from the Convention Center
$169
$169
$169
Quad
NON-SMOKING HOTEL
PHILADELPHIA MARRIOTT
Deluxe
$199
Single
Adjacent to the Convention Center
$199
Double
$219
Triple
$239
Quad
NON-SMOKING HOTEL
RESERVE YOUR HOTEL
Visit our website: www.LNEONLINE.com E-mail: registration@LNEONLINE.com Tel: 305.443.2322 US: 1.800.471.0229 Fax: 1.305.443.1664
All rates are PER NIGHT Plus 14% room tax. Congress rates are subject to availability. CANCELLATION PENALTIES: $50 cancellation fee if reservations are cancelled after 10/7/2011. Full one night deposit if cancelled after 10/14/2011. Cancellation penalties are STRICTLY ENFORCED
AIRLINE RESERVATIONS & CAR RENTAL
To make your airline reservations at the best possible airfare or to rent a car you may contact Lissette Martin toll-free at 1.800.544.1222 ext. 258 or e-mail your request to Lmartin@expresstravelus.com.
GETTING TO PHILADELPHIA BY TRAIN
Taking a train is a fast, inexpensive and easy way to travel. Save on gas and parking fees for Convention Center and hotels. Amtrak Rail Service, for information call: 1.800.872.7245 or visit www.amtrak.com and refer to convention fare code X21H-930. Patco, for information call: 1.856.772.6900 or 1.215.922.4600 or visit www.ridepatco.org. Septa, for information call: 1.215.580.7800 or 1.215.580.4000 or visit www.septa.com.
AIRPORT SHUTTLE AND TAXICAB SERVICES
The shuttle fare from the airport to the city center is approx. $10 - Taxicab service is approx. $28. For more information please call 1.215.937.6958, or visit the Philadelphia airports website at www.phl.org.
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Philadelphia 2011
GENERAL SESSION & SEMINARS

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 23
GENERAL SESSION Located inside the Exhibit Hall
9:30 a.m. 9:45 a.m. 10:30 a.m. 11:00 a.m. 11:45 a.m. 12:15 p.m. Opening Ceremony by William Strunk Clinical Acne Treatment by Mark Lees, Ph.D., M.S. DEMO How Customers Think: A Window Into the Consumers Mind by Leon Alexander, Ph.D. LECTURE Sound Therapy Body Treatment With Tuning Forks by Ann Latocha DEMO The ABCs of A, C and E by Michael Q. Pugliese LECTURE Spiritual Makeup by Leslie Christin DEMO
DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS
GREEN/WELLNESS SUMMIT Located in room 119A

2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. What Does it Mean to be a Sustainable Spa? (Panel discussion) Moderator: Peter Plishka- Natural Body Spa Panelists: Robert Sachs - Author of Health Secrets From the Roof of the World Dawn Tardif - BodiScience Holistic Spa Penny Ordway - Eviama Life Spa Building a Green Team: The First Step to Sustainability (Panel discussion) Moderator: Melanie Sachs - Certified Ayurvedic Life Counselor Panelists: Peter Plishka - The Natural Body Spa Dawn Tardif - BodiScience Holistic Spa Penny Ordway - Eviama Life Spa Make Your Message Resonate With Green Consumers (Lecture) By Peter Plishka
The COA hasapproved these classes for 1 CE each
3:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
4:00 p.m. to 4:45 p.m.
MEDICAL ESThETIC SEMINAR Located in room 119B

2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. 3:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. Medical Esthetics: What it Takes by Susanne Warfield Esthetic Equipment: Can I use it? by Susanne Warfield
SALON/SpA MANAGEMENT BUSINESS SEMINAR Located in room 119B

4:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. Are You Wowing Your Clients? by Laura M. Cummins
NATIONAL AESThETIC SpA NETWORk (NASN) Round Tables located in room 121C
3:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. Moderator: Denise R. Fuller Increasing Your Profits by Mary Turner Cost-effective Marketing by Gena Flores Become a Holistic Practitioner by Julie Starr
AESThETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) Located in room 126A

2:00 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. 4:00 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. Cellulite - Facts, Fiction and Results by Michelle DAllaird-Brenner Essential Oils and Common Skin Conditions by Rose Linkens
MONDAY, OCTOBER 24
GENERAL SESSION Located inside the Exhibit Hall
9:20 a.m. 9:30 a.m. 10:15 a.m. 10:45 a.m. 11:30 a.m. 12:00 p.m. Opening Ceremony by William Strunk Netra Basti: Bathing the Eyes in Ghee by Melanie and Robert Sachs DEMO The Feng Shui of Profitable Spas: Applying Ancient Knowledge in the 21st Century by Judith Wendell LECTURE Scrub Away Cellulite by Gena Flores DEMO Hyperpigmentation Causes and Remedies by Carl Thornfeldt, M.D. LECTURE Brow Sculpting for Men and Women by Deanna Netti-Cahill DEMO
ADvANCED SALON/SpA BUSINESS SEMINAR Located in room 119A

2:00 p.m. to 2:40 p.m. 2:40 p.m. to 3:20 p.m. 3:30 p.m. to 4:15 p.m.
Growing Your Business Using Social Media: The Next Level by Lake Louise Apps are Where its at! by Lake Louise Small Business Marketing Strategies That Attract Big Business Customers by Alexis Ufland
IN-DEpTh MAkEUp CLASS Located in room 119B

4:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. 1:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. 2:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. 3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Keys to a Successful Photo Shoot by Buntricia Bastian
ThE SpA BUzz Round Tables By Kristi Konieczny Located at the Spa Buzz Lounge inside the Exhibit Hall
Social Currency | Successful Practices Best Practices | Lessons Learned Wellness | Implementing all Components Into Your Business and Life
AESThETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) Located in room 126B

1:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. 3:00 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. The New Age of Networking by Mike Lewis, Internet Strategist Meet the Needs of Your Menopausal Clients by Trish Green
Workshops
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
ROOM 115 A ROOM 115 B ROOM 115 C ROOM 116 ROOM 117 ROOM 118 A ROOM 118 B ROOM 118 C ROOM 121 A ROOM 121 B ROOM 121 C ROOM 122 A ROOM 122 B ROOM 123 ROOM 124 ROOM 125
s u n d a y
octoBer 23
MINENCE ORGANIC SkIN CARE Master the Hungarian Massage Techniques for the Instant Facelift (Hands on demonstration) By Boldijarre Koronczay MARk LEES SkIN CARE, INC. Redness & Wrinkles: What Every Esthetician Should Know By Mark Lees, Ph.D., M.S., CIDESCO Diplomat SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SkIN CARE Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic/ Microcurrent/Infrared Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products By Margarita Saian HYDROPEPTIDE Peptides, Stem Cells, Growth FactorsDont be Left Behind! By Diane Forsyth RHONDA ALLISON Learn the Secrets to a Perfect Body Peel By Rhonda Allison EvAS ESTHETICS Advanced Speed Wax Techniques With the Wax Queen Using Berodin Depilatory Wax By Lori Nestore BIO JOUvANCE, INC. Bio RollerMicro-needle Facial Therapy: How it Works and How Your Clients Benefit By Sonia Boghosian PCA SkIN A Deeper Look at Chemical Peeling By Erin Holder, LE SkIN FITNESS THERAPY Introducing the Newest Trends and Seasonal Changes By Jeannette Costeiu OSMOSIS SkINCARE Human Stem Cells in Skin Care By Ben Johnson, M.D. MLIS Holistic Slimming By Wallace Nelson BON vITAL, INC. Increase Profits by Incorporating Add-on Products By Bruce Baltz EDGE SYSTEMS CORPORATION Skin Health For Life - Revitalizing Your Esthetic Practice WithProven, Hands-on Marketing Tactics By Alan Reich NATURE PURE LABS SW, INC. Non-Surgical Instant Face and Neck Lift Procedure With Advanced Organic Bioactive Stem Cells and Micro-needling By Victoria Markman DERMAWARE BIO-TARGETED SkIN CARE Corrective Peeling: Face Lift Jessner Peel & Science By Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gl . Zone A NATURAL DIFFERENCE Like Nothing Else By Irene Stuckey
3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

ROOM 115 A ROOM 115 B ROOM 115 C ROOM 116 ROOM 117 ROOM 118 A ROOM 118 B ROOM 118 C ROOM 121 A ROOM 121 B ROOM 122 A ROOM 122 B MINENCE ORGANIC SkIN CARE Newest Trends and Techniques in Natural Skin Care! (Hands on demonstration) By Boldijarre Koronczay MARk LEES SkIN CARE, INC. Making Extractions Easier: Causes and Treatment of Clogged Pores By Mark Lees, Ph.D., M.S., CIDESCO Diplomat SPAWARE SOFTWARE Using Social Media With Automated Marketing and the Easy Five-Step Selling Process By Blake Rector ROSE SkIN CARE PRODUCTS How to Treat Skin Tags, Cholesterol Deposits and Unwanted Growths (Demonstration) By Johanne Clement RHONDA ALLISON New Peel Innovations By Rhonda Allison EvAS ESTHETICS Color Blind Skin Analysis With an Overview of Evas Esthetics and Hydrophilic Cleansing Oils By Lori Nestore SESHA SkIN THERAPY Hyperpigmentation: Causes, Effects and Solutions By Phyllis Hsieh vIvANT SkIN CARE Acne: Myths, Causes and Treatments By Mariamar Masso MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. Learn How to Earn Big $$$ Removing All Types of Skin Growths By Lana Yu REMY LAURE - EUROPEAN BEAUTE Face and Body Mapping By Patty Leung BON vITAL, INC. Product Education and Body Mechanics By Bruce Baltz DELUxE FOR BUSINESS Get More Clients With Your Online Marketing By Ryan Christopher
deMonstration stages
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
STAGE-A STAGE-B STAGE-C STAGE-D STAGE-D
s u n d a y
octoBer 23
PHYSIODERMIE (METHODE)/DERME.CA The Latest Knowledge on Sensitive Skin, Rosacea and Acne Rosacea By Michael Ibbott TOUCH BEAUTY, LLC Melanin Management: Facts, Myths and Techniques By Barbara Schumann NELLY DE vUYST/DERME.CA Rejuvenating Anti-Aging Solutions Combined With Radiofrequency Technologies By Karina Geoffroy CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Demystifying Stem Cell Ingredients By Peter T. Pugliese, M.D. EvE TAYLOR Skin Care for Men By Trish Green, CIDESCO Diplomat
3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

STAGE-A STAGE-B STAGE-C STAGE D STAGE-E
PHYSIODERMIE (METHODE)/DERME.CA Effective Skin Rejuvenation Service for Damaged Skin (Without IPL or Lasers) By Michael Ibbott TOUCH BEAUTY, LLC Massage With Intention By Barbara Schumann NELLY DE vUYST/DERME.CA Rosacea, Acne Rosacea, Redness and Aging By Karina Geoffroy CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE The Truth About Oxygen and the Skin By Peter T. Pugliese, M.D. and Michael Q. Pugliese EvE TAYLOR Reflexology: Treatment of the Skin From the Inside Out (Live demonstration) By Trish Green, CIDESCO Diplomat
Workshops
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
ROOM 115 A ROOM 115 B ROOM 115 C ROOM 116 ROOM 117 ROOM 118 A ROOM 118 B ROOM 118 C ROOM 121 A ROOM 121 B ROOM 121 C
M o n d a y
octoBer 24
MINENCE ORGANIC SkIN CARE Hungarian Secrets for Anti-Aging Massage Techniques (Advanced hands on demonstration) By Boldijarre Koronczay BON vITAL, INC. Increase Profits by Incorporating Add-on Products By Bruce Baltz SAIAN NATURAL CLINICAL SkIN CARE Non-Surgical Face Lift, Neck Lift, and Collagen Infusion Therapy Achieved Through Galvanic/ Microcurrent/Infrared Technology and Natural Clinical Peptide Products By Margarita Saian HYDROPEPTIDE Maximize and Grow Your Retail Sales By April Zangl
RAW MENS SkIN CARE RAW: How to Capture the Male Market By Rhonda Allison EvAS ESTHETICS Brazilian Bikini Waxing With the Wax Queen Using Berodin Depilatory Wax By Lori Nestore BIO JOUvANCE, INC. Pre-peel Skin Diagnosis Techniques and Proper Peel Selection By Sonia Boghosian PCA SkIN Treating Ethnic Skin With Confidence By Erin Holder MARTINNI BEAUTY, INC. Learn How to Earn Big $$$ Removing All Types of Skin Growths By Lana Yu OSMOSIS SkINCARE Melasma, Rosacea, Acne, Aging and DNA Repair By Ben Johnson, M.D. MLIS Candida Solutions By Linda T. Nelson, Ph.D.
3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

ROOM 115 A ROOM 115 B ROOM 118 A MINENCE ORGANIC SkIN CARE The Organic Way: Treating Acne, Rosacea and Eczema With Natural Ingredients (Hands on demonstration) By Boldijarre Koronczay BON vITAL, INC. Designing a Signature Treatment By Bruce Baltz EvAS ESTHETICS Do it My Way and Make Lots of Money! (Unless you Enjoy Being Poor) By Lori Nestore
Visit WWW.lneonline.coM for all details.
deMonstration stages
2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m.
STAGE A STAGE B STAGE C STAGE-D STAGE-E TOUCH BEAUTY, LLC The Boomerang Effect By Barbara Schumann
M o n d a y
octoBer 24
DED INCLU ITH W SION ADMIS
PHYSIODERMIE (METHODE)/DERME. CA Morpho-Lympho-Drainage of the Face (Live demonstration) By Michael Ibbott NELLY DE vUYST/DERME. CA Increase Your Spa/Medical Spas Sales With Cutting-Edge Equipment and Services! By Karina Geoffroy CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Peptide Technology By Michael Q. Pugliese EvE TAYLOR A New Approach to the Aromatherapy Spa Experience (Live demonstration) By Trish Green, CIDESCO Diplomat
3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

STAGE A STAGE B STAGE C STAGE D STAGE E PHYSIODERMIE (METHODE)/DERME. CA Acne and Lesions: Scientific Causes and Current Solutions By Michael Ibbott TOUCH BEAUTY, LLC Melanin Management: Facts, Myths and Techniques By Barbara Schumann NELLY DE vUYST / DERME. CA Proven Methods for Boosting Retail Sales! By Karina Geoffroy CIRCADIA BY DR. PUGLIESE Pigmentation Disorders: Causes and Treatments By Michelle DAllaird EvE TAYLOR Lymphatic Drainage for the Face (Live demonstration) By Trish Green, CIDESCO Diplomat
eXhiBitor list
5 Star Formulators A Natural Difference Aesthetics Complete Aesthetics Unique A1A Facial + Salon Equipment AIA-Aesthetics International Association Alex Cosmetic Herbal A-Peel AromaSalts Associated Skin Care Professionals Athena Beauty B&S Beauty Supply Beauties City Supplies, Inc. Beauty Attica, Inc. Bio Jouvance, Inc. Blinc BodeWell BodySense Midwest Bon Vital, Inc. Bronze Biologic Spray On Tanning Brow Diva Chado En Chromogenex US, Inc. Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Clarisonic ClearFX Skin Cosmtiques France Laure Crown Brush Co. / Div. of Crown Industries, Inc. Deluxe for Business Dermascope Magazine Dermatic Essentials DermAware Bio-Targeted Skin Care Diamond Way Ayurveda DMK-Dann Montague-King DPC Dr. Jeff Skin Care Dr. Jules Nabet Skin Care Dynamis Skin Science / MEG 21 Edge Systems Corporation minence Organic Skin Care Equipro Evas Esthetics
as of september 1, 2011
Eve Taylor North America Extend Your Lashes Eye Kandy Cosmetics Fake Bake Tanning Products Falcon International Group, Inc. Fallene Ltd. Fiafini, Inc. Five Star Formulators Germaine de Capuccini Gold Cosmetics & Skin Care Grande Lash-MD Health Mate Sauna HydroPeptide i-lipo Intelligent Skin Sense LLC Jaco Wholesale Day Spa Supplies JMT Group Jojoba Company Klapp USA, Inc. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics Lavie - Organique Lavinia Borcau Skin Care Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa LightStim Liquid Ice of Switzerland Lizette Cosmetics, Inc. Lotus Moon Luminosity Mlis M.A.D. Skincare Magazine Service Outlet (CMS of Holland) Mark Lees Skin Care, Inc. Martinni Beauty, Inc. michael marcus cosmetics Minkys Monique Mathieu Nature Pure Labs SW, Inc. Nelly de Vuyst / Derme.CA Olie Biologique Osmosis Pr Medical Skincare PCA Skin
PFB Vanish, Inc. Pibbs
Physiodermie (Methode) / Derme.CA Pinnacle Cosmetics Rapid Lash Raw Mens Skin Care Rena Levi Skin Care Revitalash Reviva Labs
Rmy Laure - European Beaute
Rhonda Allison Saian
Rose Skin Care Products Salonwear
Satin Smooth
Sesha Skin Therapy Shellac
Shea Terra Organics Shira Esthetics SkinAct
Skin Fitness Therapy Smockers By Bexar Mfg. Co. Sottos International
Solise - A Daily SunCare Company South Seas Skin Care Sparenity
Spa Manufacturer Direct Spaware Software Tea Docents
Sun Laboratories, Inc. Tei Spa By Tip Essentials, Inc. Teka Fine Line Brushes, Inc. The Dead Sea Pavilion The Unique Edge Touch Beauty, LLC Violet Skin Boutique Vivant Skin Care
Zion Cleanse Detox Foot Baths
Satin Smooth
Professional warmers are exclusive designs created to efciently maximize your space and add customized waxing services for optimal client comfort and wellness. Thermostatically designed to create an even temperature through-out the day, these state of the art appliances can be used to expand your service menu by adding the selections of different waxes, to your business.
Feel good all over!
Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa in Philadelphia at booths 305 and 307
2011 Satin Smooth For more information on Satin Smooth products, visit our website: www.satinsmooth.com or call our customer service line: 1-800-726-4204 11SS125649
skin
by Janel Luu
no longer stuck in the mud
CENTURIES AGO, WOMEN APPLIED mud and clay-based facial masks for beauty benefits. During this time it was also popular to mix natural earth elements such as pearls or jade into masks. These exotic and rare ingredients were ground up and combined with water to create a paste, which was applied to the face for anti-aging effects ... thus the first beauty masks were born.
are more readily and evenly absorbed. Generally, there is no rinsing of the skin required after its removal.
In conjunction with technology

One of the most exciting attributes of these lift-off gel masks is that they are liquid based and can be used with ultrasound and galvanic machines. The effectiveness of these masks depends on the quality of the serum and actives impregnated in the freeze-dried marine collagen, but overall it is an impressive technology. In addition to the freeze-dried collagen masks, which provide exceptional benefits due to the inherently hydrating and vitamin-rich makeup of the collagen, the second type of lift-off masks are custom-blended and can have antioxidant, brightening, oxygenating and/ or anti-aging benefits. These customcreated spot treatment masks please our instant gratification clients. This is an ideal way to immediately increase the penetration of the active ingredients and give your treatment a unique point of difference for the most results-driven consumer. These effective custom masks are sometimes saturated with a stabilized form of multi-peptides that strengthen skin elasticity and smooth the appearance of fine lines.
Latest evolution
New technologies continue to arrive, but the key is to find a mask that awes the consumer and esthetician, with results lasting well beyond the treatment itself. The latest evolution in masks adds beneficial ingredients to the skin with unique carrier systems, in combination with machine treatments, and does not have to be rinsed off. The most impressive and innovative technology to date is the introduction of lift-off masking preparations. There are two types that deliver excellent results. The first type is a saturated, removable freeze-dried marine collagen mask infused with actives, and the second is a lift-off mask custom-blended with targeted, concentrated actives. The first type of freeze-dried marine collagen gel masks works when released from the non-woven paper and infuses skin with non-water based serums. As a onetime use mask, it creates an occlusive barrier, effectively penetrating the actives directly into the skin. This mask creates direct contact with skin for ultimate penetration in a controlled environment, allowing the ingredients to work most effectively. While the mask is on the skin, this barrier helps to oxygenate and increase circulation so the actives in the masks
October 2011 Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa
rinse, the ingredients remain on the skin, causing results to last much longer than traditional cream or paste masks. For the most accelerated results, look for masks with a complex marine collagen peptide. To brighten your clients look, find the most stable vitamin C (MAP) actives, which also provide a unique cooling sensation. A mask combining this vitamin C with green and white tea extracts should brighten skin and minimize the appearance of hyperpigmentation. If clients prefer exotic ingredients, look for a combination of ceramide III, caviar and algae-based extracts to keep the skin hydrated and protected for supple, healthier-looking skin. Remember, gel-texture masks are wet to the touch and have active ingredients, while the custom-created masks need to be blended with an activating fluid to release the ingredients into the skin. Either way, the clients face is invariably left with a dewy softness, and both masks provide more long-term benefits than traditional masking techniques. At last, masks are no longer stuck in the mud! n Janel Luu, founder and CEO of Le Mieux Cosmetics, has been a leading product developer for skin care and cosmetics companies for more than 25 years. She specializes in anti-aging cellular technology, focusing on research and development, and provides guidance to cosmetic chemists on innovative formulations.
www.LNEONLINE.com Page 31
Fast results
Lift-off masks are exciting and innovative in many ways: they work more quickly and effectively than traditional masks, and provide long-term benefits by delivering active ingredients deep into skin without the interference of the surrounding air. Since we do not
photo: auremar/Shutterstock.com
by Barbara Schumann
skin| a balancing act

WHILE THERE HAS BEEN A PROLIFeration of hormone-based products on the topical skin care market, there is the problem of a huge misunderstanding of what topical hormones can actually do to improve the condition of the skin. It is important to ignore the marketing buzz and hype. Estheticians and consumers need to have a better understanding of the biology and function of hormones as they relate to the skin, so that when they are presented with an over-the-counter topical skin care treatment, they can apply their own logic and make a decision from a stance of knowledgeand not just because it sounds good. We all know how adept marketing professionals are at making things sound good. metabolism and tissue function, to name a few of the more obvious things. The endocrine system works by producing and releasing different types of hormones to maintain and control a number of important functions throughout the body, including the lymphatic system, which works in close cooperation with other body systems to help the immune system destroy pathogens, and filtering waste so that the lymph can be safely returned to the circulatory system; removing excess fluid, waste, debris, dead blood cells, pathogens, cancer cells and toxins from these cells and the tissue spaces between them; and also working with the circulatory system to deliver nutrients, oxygen, and hormones from the blood to the cells that make up the tissues of the body. An imbalance of our hormonal function in the body (either too much or too little hormone volume) can have a ranging effect on the bodys overall function, from the most subtle of deviations or fluctuations in function to dramatic malfunctions, or even a shutdown of certain organs or their systems in the body. Being the largest organ, the skin is not only affected by the hormones, but also by any malfunctioning organs triggered by hormonal imbalances. body health. Everything good and bad is reflected by our skin and its condition. That is why the first step to great skin is improving our general lifestyle choices: eating healthier, drinking the right amount of fluids and eliminating any of the bad habits that we indulge in at the expense of our health. It is then that we can try to repair or intervene with topical applications.
Moment for logic

It is here that we need to apply some logic. Just because a hormone regulates or affects certain functionalities in the body does not mean that it will work in the same manner in a topical application. The key functioning ingredients for any formulation is dependent on its entire balance, as well as the type of suspension used. Some need to be presented in an occlusive formulation and others are better served with a water-soluble, non-occlusive formula to allow for better penetration. There are several theories when it comes to topical treatments. Penetration is the ability for the product to enter the skin via tissue, pores, sweat glands and hair shaft. Stimulation is the ability of a product to stimulate natural production. Occlusion is the ability of a product to set up a protective barrier. Evaporation is the ability of a product to stay and interact with the skin, as opposed to evaporating from its surface. Decoy is the ability of a product to mimic the tissues own structures and therefore stimulate the bodys production of a balancing or complimentary hormone. Bio-availability is defined as the ability,
Basic biology
Our endocrine system helps regulate our hormones. Hormones in turn help regulate the function of organs and the lymphatic system. With a better understanding of these relationships and how they affect the skin, we can then begin to understand how, as estheticians, we can help manage our clients skin care regimen. The endocrine system is a complex network of integrated hormone-producing glands and organs. It functions in much the same way as the nervous system, acting as the communication between the body and the brain. These specialized glands are what control our hormone production, otherwise referred to as our body chemistry, which in turn controls the function of the organs. The endocrine system is credited with controlling growth, mental development,
Skins function
Our skin serves several functions. It is our bodys protective barrier, maintaining and controlling the bodys fluid levels and temperature. It assists with the evacuation of toxins and the photoproduction of nutrients. Whereas the eyes may be the window to the soul, the skin is the window to our overall
photo: Stockbyte/Getty Images
skin
rate and extent by which an ingredient or drug reaches the intended treatment area or intensity, and is applicable to oral and topical applications.
Typical topical hormones

There are literally hundreds of hormones in our bodies. However, this article focuses on those that directly affect the skin or have achieved widespread popularity in the topical skin care industry. Steroids like cortisol and aldosterone are produced by the adrenal cortex, and although they have no direct impact on the skin, when produced in the body they do affect the systems and organs that can have a dramatic effect on the skin and its appearance. They have been used in topical applications because of their ability to mobilize amino acids, increase blood volume and act as a strong anti-inflammatory. It is now understood that steroid topical applications do enter the bloodstream, and that their negative impact on the body in general outweighs any benefit to the topical application. Therefore they are strongly controlled by the Food and Drug Administration, no longer available over the counter and can only be dispensed with a doctors prescription. There are several peptides that have a direct effect on body tissue and the skin; the challenge is the fragility of the structures make them difficult to harvest therefore most that are used in topical applications are synthetic reproductions. On the other hand, hormones are much sturdier in structure and can be harvested for effective topical application. Progesterone assists the skins healing process by regulating collagen. Growth hormone stimulates growth and cell reproduction. Lipotropin stimulates melanocytes to produce melanin. Melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) triggers melanogenesis through melanocytes in skin and hair. Estradiol helps regulate the maintenance of blood vessels and skin. There are several topical hormones that have become popular in the skin care industry. Organizing it in categories allows us to have a better understandOctober 2011 Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa
ing of the therapists role in managing the skin concerns of those who have hormonal variations. Acne is the term used for inflamed skin that presents plugged pores (blackheads and whiteheads), pimples and even deeper lumps (cysts or nodules), which occur on the face, neck, chest, back, shoulders and even the upper arms. It affects most teenagers and adults in their 20s and beyond. Adult female acne can be triggered by changes in hormones, ovarian cysts or pregnancy. Treatment includes oral contraceptives, either alone or in conjunction with other therapies, oral medications or topical creams, gels or lotions with vitamin A derivatives, benzoyl peroxide or antibiotics to help unblock the pores and reduce the amount of bacteria. Hirsutism is characterized by excessive hair growth on the female face and body; 1 in 20 American women are affected. It might be caused by genetics or abnormally high levels of the male hormone androgen in the blood. Treatment includes oral anti-androgens or topical creams to slow the hair growth, particularly on the face. Polycystic ovary syndrome can also trigger the condition. Melasma is also known as the mask of pregnancy. It is caused by an overproduction of melanin, a natural substance in the body that gives color to the hair, skin and eyes, leading to dark patches on the face. It is recommended to wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 20 or higher to prevent further darkening of the skin. Treatment can include topical prescriptions or over-the-counter products containing hydroquinone, or prescription products containing retinoids, azelaic acid or hydroxy acids. Menopause presents several characteristic changes to the texture, turgor and suppleness of the skin. In general, there is thinning of the skin, loss of elasticity and increased sensitivity due to lower levels of estrogen. Treatment options include prescription retinoids or over-the-counter products such as
retinol, alpha-hydroxy acids, antioxidants or peptides. Androgenetic alopecia is hair loss in which hair thins on the top of the head and becomes finer in texture. This is primarily a genetic condition. Treatment options include topical minoxidil and other therapies, including oral medications that can block the effect of androgens, such as hormone replacement therapy and spironolactone.
Ingredients that seem to help

Several studies have established that topical estrogens produce significant skin improvements in women during or after menopauseessentially, in women whose estrogen levels are low. While systemic effects of small amounts of topical estrogens appear to be rather small, some concerns remain. Oral estrogen replacement has been shown to increase the risk of breast cancer in some studies. There are understandable concerns that possible systemic effects of topical estrogens, however small, might contribute to breast cancer risk. Progesterone has a role similar to estrogens in skin health and could be used topically to prevent or partially reverse menopausal skin deterioration. A 16-week study published in The British Journal of Dermatology in September 2005 involved 40 women and evaluated the effects of 2-percent progesterone cream on the function and texture of the skin in women during or after menopause. The study design was robust: double-blind, placebo-controlled and randomized. On average, the women studied experienced a 23 percent increase in skin firmness, a 29 percent reduction in wrinkle count near the eye and an almost 10 percent reduction in the depth of laugh lines. The studys conductor, Dr. Gregor Holzer and his colleagues reported that no serious side effects were observed. Copper peptide is the resulting compound, consisting of a peptide and a copper atom. Certain kinds of peptides continues
skin|a balancing act

have an avid affinity for copper, to which they bind very tightly, therefore stabilizing them in topical applications. Peptides are small fragments of proteins; which are the key building blocks of most living tissues. Loren Pickart, Ph.D., discovered the benefits of copper peptides for tissue regeneration in the 1970s. He found and patented the number of specific copper peptides (in particular, GHK copper peptides or GHK-Cu) that were particularly effective in healing wounds and skin lesions, as well as some gastrointestinal conditions. One of the end results of this research was Iamin gel, which is FDA-approved for the treatment of acute and chronic wounds and ulcers. Many substances can have a positive effect on wound healing. A distinctive feature of GHK copper peptides is that they reduce scar tissue formation while stimulating normal skin remodeling. In other words, they help improve restoration of the damaged area to its original look. Matrixyl 3000 is a combination of the two peptides: palmitoyl oligopeptide (a.k.a. GHK peptide) and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Palmitoyl oligopeptide is a fragment of a type I collagen molecule, and it is believed to serve as a biological indicator of increased degradation of the skin matrix. When the key skin matrix-producing cells (fibroblasts) detect increased levels of GHK, they assume that the skin matrix is being lost at a higher rate and begin synthesizing it more vigorously. Thus, Pal-GHK (a version of GHK designed for better skin penetration) is intended to stimulate skin matrix replenishment via topical application, leading, presumably, to wrinkle reduction, skin firming and other benefits. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 consists of a short chain of four amino acids (i.e., GQPR peptide or glycineglutamine-proline-arginine) connected to palmitic acid. Palmitic acid is a fatty acid added to improve the peptides oil solubility and thus skin penetration. It is believed to work by reducing the production of interleukin-6 (IL-6) by the key skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts. IL-6 is a molecule that promotes inflammation, which, in turn, leads to
faster degradation of the skin matrix. Thus, it contributes to the development of wrinkles and the loss of skin firmness and elasticity. By reducing the levels of IL-6 and possibly other inflammation mediators, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is thought to slow down the degradation of the skin matrix and may also stimulate its replenishment.
Treatments to consider
Other forms of therapy to consider include interventional treatments like exfoliation, resurfacing, injectables and lasers. Although these cannot be used in prevention, they can be quick and dramatic in curtailing the effects of hormone fluctuations. Exfoliation/resurfacing is the utilization of mechanical scrubs, acid peels, chemical peels or even laser resurfacing. The theory here is that when you help shed the outer dead layer of the skin, you trigger the production of collagen, because this attack on the protective layer sends a signal to the deeper layers of the skin to become more active. This too has produced smoother and firmer skin. One of the softer, noninvasive treatments is microdermabrasion, a mechanical exfoliation or micro-resurfacing. It is a cosmetic technique that uses a mechanical medium for exfoliation, along with adjustable suction to remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells from the epidermis. It is a noninvasive procedure, performed in-office by a trained skin care professional. The theory is that the skins surface is disrupted, cell division occurs, and this stimulates fibroblast activity leading to collagen production. Human skin sloughs off at a slower rate with age, so proponents of the technique claim the exfoliation of several layers of the stratum corneum can lead to generally more youthful appearing skin. It has also been accepted that certain injectables can also help build collagen. It seems that there is an injectable on the market today that has a credible claim to build collagen. It is an altered form of lactic acid, which our muscles naturally produce. When it is
injected, it triggers the signal to the collagen-producing cells to make more. There is an extensive amount of research that showcases the ability of lasers to help the dermis build collagen. The different forms are long-wave lasers, which are known to build collagen; and photo-rejuvenation with intense pulse light devices and IPLs, which also send signals to the skin to make more collagen. Then there are light resurfacing lasers such as the light erbium lasers and fractional resurfacing. Both seem to have a dramatic effect in some patients, while in others, not much.
The art of treatment

The treatment of the skin has developed into a holistic scientific art. Today we have a much better understanding of the chemical and hormonal balance of the body and how it affects the skin. Research is still aggressively looking for the lightning rod that will help the body achieve a more controlled hormonal balance, especially in the aging process. It is by having a better understanding and awareness of the endocrine system and its impact on the health and aging process of the body that we can look into treating and eventually eliminating illnesses that are triggered by a decline in chemistry. The great news there is that the skin care industry will directly benefits from this medical research. n Barbara Schumann is the founder of Touch Beauty and the Schumann Legacy Foundation. As a licensed skin therapist and skin care line developer since 1991, Schumann has made it her business and calling to bring out the best in people. The German-raised daughter of a skin care legend, Schumann uses all of the bedrock knowledge she has learned over the years and takes it to another level.
by Lydia Sarfati
skin|
fall into brightening
groundbreaking brightening technology reveals a radiant, more luminous you

RECENTLY, THERE HAVE BEEN SOME very exciting advances in skin care science, particularly targeting hyperpigmentation. Fall is the perfect season to introduce these types of products and treatments to your clients to help treat any hyperpigmentation that may have developed during the sun-filled summer months. As an esthetician, it is important for you to understand how hyperpigmentation occurs, what ingredients to avoid, and what is available to successfully treat clients afflicted with this condition. While most brightening products work through tyrosinase inhibition, the enzyme that accelerates the oxidation of tyrosine, it is possible to influence the process at multiple points. Hyperpigmentation occurs when ultraviolet rays from the sun attack the keratinocyte of the skin; the keratinocyte then signals the melanocyte, which initiates the production of melanin. Once the melanocyte receptors are attacked, it triggers tyrosinase, endothelium (ET1) and alpha melanin stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) to produce melanin. Melanocytes travel through their dendritic cells containing melanosomes that carry the melanin pigment. Once they travel to the above keratinocyte where it is aggregated and deposited, they produce the melanin pigment. This process is called melanogenesis, which creates hyperpigmentation.
highly purified watermelon extract protects DNA in skin cells from damage caused by ultraviolet-light induced free radicals
marine biotechnology and revolutionary peptide research can now help rapidly reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone while battling hyperpigmentation to reveal a more luminous complexion.
Bellis daisy
In my opinion, this is the most revolutionary brightening ingredient to date. In vivo and in vitro studies show that bellis daisy has a rapid skin-brightening effect. It provides even toning and helps reduce the appearance of age spots. Bellis daisy also reduces the ultraviolet-stimulated induction of melanin biosynthesis. The powerful flower is actually able to decrease tyrosinase activity and the binding likeness of melanocyte-stimulating hormone (alphaMSH) to its receptor. Bellis daisy not only decreases tyrosinase activity, it has been shown to work on multiple pathways. Bellis daisy acts by controlling the messenger. It reduces the ET-1 (endothelin) expression by about two thirds, and it decreases alpha-MSH binding. Without ultraviolet exposure, bellis daisy shows an in vivo color decrease of up to 20 percent in just 14 days.
Basic background
Also called pigment, melanin is a substance that gives skin and hair its natural color. Those with darker skin have higher amounts of melanin. By contrast, those with less pigment have more fair skin. Melanin pigments are formed as part of the process of metabolizing an amino acid called tyrosine. Tyrosine channels the production of melanin and other pigments by oxidation. In humans, melanogenesis is a darkening of the skin, or an increased production of melanin, also called hyperpigmentation. This is a common, usually harmless condition in which patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin. This darkening occurs when an excess of melanin, the brown pigment that produces normal skin color, forms deposits in the skin.
From past to present

In the past, ingredients such as hydroquinone and mercury chloride have been used to treat melanogenesis. These ingredients, however, have been linked to a variety of health issues, even when used in small percentages. Today, we have groundbreaking natural ingredients that can help reverse hyperpigmentation from the sun, acne scars, hormonal changes and certain prescription medication without taking the risk of causing your client future health complications. Innovative
photo: Juice Team/Shutterstock.com
Licorice extract
This ingredient, known for its skin-brightening benefits, is glabridin. Featuring strong anti-inflammatory properties, glabridin inhibits pigmentation by precontinues
skin|fall into brightening

venting tyrosinase activity without being toxic to the cells. binding to its receptors, thereby decreasing melanin synthesis. This peptide is actually able to decrease melanin production, thereby targeting hyperpigmentation before it starts. lata is known to decrease tyrosinase activity by as much as 52 percent.
Willow bark extract

Willow bark extract provides natural beta hydroxy acid without skin irritation. It enhances cell renewal and encourages the shedding of dead skin, revealing brighter looking skin.
Watermelon fruit extract

This highly purified watermelon extract protects DNA in skin cells from damage caused by ultraviolet-light induced free radicals. This helps decrease skin redness after ultraviolet irradiation by as much as 68 percent. Watermelon extract also contains naturally occurring vitamins, carbohydrates and amino acids.
Pelvetia canaliculata extract

This beautiful, lettuce-like seaweed has anti-inflammatory properties that help protect against DNA deterioration. Most notably, it targets existing pigmented spots for a more even-toned complexion. In fact, Pelvetia canalicu-
Hexapeptide-2
This fast-acting skin-lightening peptide acts as an antagonist to alpha-MSH,
Kojic acid
Kojic acid is derived from a variety of fungi. It inhibits melanogenesis by chelating the copper bound to tyrosinase. It decreases the number of melanosomes and dendrites, which makes it useful in treating hyperpigmentation.
Natural, yet effective

Today it is possible to help your clients reverse hyperpigmentation. These revolutionary brightening ingredients are a natural and effective method in your quest to achieve outstanding results without damaging the delicate structure of the skin. As always, I believe in a natural approach to skin care to keep your clients healthy, and looking and feeling beautiful. So go ahead, help your clients fall into brightening this season, the natural way! n Lydia Sarfati is the president and founder of Repchage. She is an internationally recognized skin care expert with more than 30 years of experience in the industry, and has been quoted in multiple highly respected publications and appeared on television for her expertise. Sarfati is the honorary chair of EstheticsAmerica, CIDESCO USA and the Skin Care & Spa Council Director of Intercoiffure North America. She is the recipient of numerous prestigious industry awards, including LNE & Spas Crystal Award. Email her at Lydia@repechage.com.
AS A PRACTITIONER AND EDUCATOR, IT ALWAYS amazes me that there are so many estheticians who are full of inquiries and ideas regarding the simplest, most essential and first forms of electricity ever used in facial therapy: galvanic current, high frequency, vacuum/suction and the Lucas spray. The use of electricity in facial therapy, known as electrotherapy, is nothing new. It has been used in facial therapy since the early 1900s in European skin care and the United States since the late 1960s. The problem for many U.S. skin care professionals is the lack of training in basic licensing courses in this country. Many professionals were simply showed a demonstration, allowed to use the device once or twice, and learned enough theory to answer a question on a test. Few actually used electrical equipment as a component of a basic facial procedure. Regardless of what you currently know, keep reading. I promise to take you from a beginner to a novice, a novice to an advanced level, or to give my electrically advanced colleagues one or two more tricks to add to your current skin care treatment protocols.
Galvanic current
Galvanic current can be used for multiple purposes, on all skin types, and in almost any facial treatment, basic or advanced (minus contraindications). The concept of using galvanic current to transport electrically charged chemicals through the skin is more than 100 years old. Galvanic current is a one-directional current, flowing from point A to point B. It functions by the use of polarity between an anode and a cathode to force a water-soluble solution into the skin (a process called phoresis). Polarity refers to having opposite poles in an electrical current, similar to opposite sides of magnets that are attracted to one anoth-
Galvanic current uses

Basics (before and after facial mask): Apply a watersoluble product rich in vitamins, minerals, peptides and other nutrient-rich ingredients that can be forced deep into the epidermis and optimize the health of the skin.
electrotherapy
ENERGIZE YOUR TREATMENTS
background: Alegria/Shutterstock.com
er. One of the unique benefits of galvanic current is that it is able to create both a mechanical and chemical effect on the skin. By altering the pH of the skin, galvanic current has the unique ability to force nutrientrich ingredients deep down through the epidermis. Milady, a part of Cengage LearnDepending upon the poing. Photography by Paul Castle. larity of the active electrodes current, either positive or negative, two different, yet beneficial processes influence change on the skin. 1. Iontophoresis is the result of using a positive current and applying a positively charged (acidic) product to the skin. It is antibacterial and used to nourish and feed the skin, as well as minimize skin sensitivity. Iontophoresis can provide fabulous benefits to mature, dehydrated, pigmented skin; rosacea; and skin in need of extra nourishment. 2. Desincrustation is the result of using a negative current and applying a negatively charged product (alkaline) to the skin. It increases circulation and skin sensitivity, creates a bacteria-friendly environment, but most importantly saponifies sebum, enabling a deep cleaning and an ease in the removal of clogged pores and comedones. Desincrustation provides fabulous benefits when improving oily, clogged and acneic skin types.
skin
Do not worry about removing the product when you remove the maskit has been locked down beneath the acid mantle, where it will stay. It will not be washed off. Specialty (to boost facial treatments designed for a specific purpose or to deliver specific results): Todays clients are all seeking results-oriented facial treatments to target specific concerns such as pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, firmness, skin texture and tone, acne and rosacea. With any of these facial services, a concentrated treatment product is applied to the skin, then followed with the appropriately charged electrode. These water-based products are forced beyond the acid mantle, where they can act on cellular components deep within the epidermis and further boost the efficacy of the other treatment products.
Advanced: To really take galvanic current to its maximum potential, create special services that revolve around the use of galvanic and the products designed to work in conjunction with it. Here are a few examples: Skin lightening treatment: Following exfoliation, apply an acidic (low pH) product packed with tyrosinase inhibitors. Perform iontophoresis. Apply another layer of product, followed by a modeling mask that contains bearberry, arbutin and vitamin C. After removing the mask, apply a vitamin C serum and finish with sunscreen. Follow a microdermabrasion with iontophoresis and instantly double the services benefits. Rapid acne Rx: Follow cleansing with desincrustation solution, then apply galvanic current. Immediately perform extractions. Reverse the charge of the active electrode to rebalance the pH of the skin. Apply an anti-inflammatory serum (perhaps one with linoleic esters), followed by a cool modeling mask. Maximum hydration: After massage, apply a nutrientrich, humectant serum using iontophoresis. Follow with a paraffin mask and saturate dehydrated skin. The list of possibilities goes on. The point is this: there is no one way to incorporate galvanic current into a facial treatment. Whether it is a basic facial, a boost or something more advanced, galvanic current can be a part of every facial treatment.
High frequency
Also referred to as the Tesla current, high-frequency was developed and introduced in 1892 by French biochemist Nikola Tesla for the treatment of skin diseases, and incorporated into European skin care therapies in the 1930s. continues
Milady, a part of Cengage Learning.
BY MICHELLE DALLAIRD
skin|electrotherapy
High frequency current is a rapid oscillating current that works in conjunction with glass electrodes, which contain either neon or argon gas to produce physiological effects on the skin. When applied to the surface of the skin, a mild electrical current passes through the neon or argon gasfilled glass electrode, causing it to ignite Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. and affect the skin. High frequency current Photography by Rob Werfel. increases circulation, produces a warming effect and is a powerful antibacterial. When the gas inside the electrode ignites, it energizes the oxygen around the electrode just above the surface of the skin. This energized oxygen, referred to as O3 or ozone, creates a powerful antibacterial effect.
Vacuum/suction
The vacuum is the least-used part of every multifunction machine, but it certainly has its place in facial therapy. Also referred to by many as the ventouse attachment, the vacuum/suction is a glass attachment that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. It has a small hole on one side. When this hole is placed flush on the skin and covered with a finger, it creates a mild suction effect across the face.
Vacuum/suction uses
Basics: It can be carefully used prior to or following extractions to loosen debris from within clogged pores. For mature, tired or dull skin, the vacuum can be used gently and lightly across the entire face, below the zygomatic arch to increase circulation, giving the skin a flushed, glowing appearance. Specialty: Create a regenerating facial treatment designed to increase circulation and revive the skin. Following the facial massage, remove all massage product, beginning at the center of the forehead. Work from the center of the face, moving outward in long gentle strokes with a small, flat attachment. Advanced: Prior to moving to an advanced level with any vacuum/suction, it is imperative to have a thorough understanding of the lymphatic system, especially of the face and neck. It is imperative that you become well-versed in the placement of lymph courtesy of quipro. nodes, the direction of lymphatic flow and proper drainage of lymph. With this knowledge you can create targeted treatments to reduce swelling and fluid retention and promote healing. Mild suction delivers amazing lymphatic drainage results and benefits, delivering instant improvement to the skin.
The Lucas spray is an age-old spray machine used to pulverize toners, infused waters and lotions.
Highly beneficial for use on mature and dehydrated skin, the warming effect of high frequency and its ability to increase circulation is a quick, easy solution to saturate the stratum corneum with humectants and leave the skin with a youthful, rosy glow.
High frequency uses

Basics: Cover the face with an unfolded piece of gauze. Run the glass electrode across the gauze over acne breakouts or areas of face where extractions have just been done to kill and prevent the spread of bacteria. High frequency can also be used at the very end of any facial to prevent possible breakouts. Specialty: Perform high frequency after waxing services on areas such as the face, bikini area and underarm to prevent breakouts. For specialized acne treatments, cleanse, apply an enzyme product, extract, perform high frequency and apply an anti-inflammatory serum. Voila! Just 30 minutes to achieve perfectly cleansed, bacteria-free skin. Advanced: Indirect high frequency is the ultimate in treatments, yet it is used. Often referred to as a Vienesse massage, this technique is an excellent choice for mature, dehydrated skin types. The technician becomes the conductor of the current as the client holds the indirect electrode and handpiece. Place one hand on your clients face, turn up the current very slightly, place your other hand on the clients skin and perform a full facial massage. The mild current will flow through your hands and create a soothing, warming and completely relaxing massage that also creates heat, aiding in mild product penetration.
Lucas spray
Also referred to as the Dr. Lucas Pulverizer, the Lucas spray, created by Dr. Lucas Championniere, is an age-old spray machine used to pulverize toners, infused waters and lotions. The cool pulverized mist penetrates deep into the upper layers of the epidermis, promoting circulation, micro-massage and a deeper, more thorough cleansing of the pores.
Lucas spray uses

Basic: Use the Lucas spray following cleansing and extraction as a toner to refine the pores and prevent bacteria. It can also be used with a mild herbal blend following the removal of a mask to refresh and energize the skin. continues
skin|electrotherapy
Specialty: Create skin-specific or treatment-specific blends to be used in targeted facial treatments. Chamomile and lavender are excellent for dehydrated and sensitive skin treatments. White lily, bearberry and licorice can be blended and incorporated into skin-whitening treatments.
Do not hold back and have no fear ... simple electricity has always been here!
used properly it does neither. Electricity does offer the ability to alter the acid mantle, increase heat in the dermal layer of the skin and target specific skin concerns, such as excess sebum and bacteria, all of which the human hand cannot. Keep in mind that although they are relatively basic treatments, all of the above require a thorough understanding of not only the electrical apparatus, but also its application to each individual client. Do not hold back and have no fear ... simple electricity has always been here! n
Advanced: Create a mild blend of herbs and/or mints. Perform a full-body brushing or other exfoliation. After removing product from the body, apply a mist of the refreshing blend from head to toe, leaving the body soft, smooth and exhilarated. Go one step further and create a blend with cinnamon and coffee. Apply it to the torso, buttocks and legs following a cellulite wrap. Your client will be tingly and toned for hours.
Feeling sparks
Many believe that electricity is not necessary in skin care services, and argue that it diminishes the personalization of what we do and the gift of the human hands. However, when
Michelle DAllaird is a successful entrepreneur. She owns and operates the two Aesthetic Science Institutes in New York. She is a licensed esthetician and cosmetologist as well as a CIDESCO Diplomat. DAllaird is a contributing writer for Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa and Dermascope magazines, and has co-authored the Salon Fundamentals Aesthetics textbook. She speaks at conferences across the United States and acts as a consultant for an international cosmetics company, providing educational services across Europe and Asia. DAllaird is also vice president of education for the Aesthetics International Association.
by Brenda Linday
skin|melasma
understanding and treating it with confidence
MORE THAN SIX MILLION AMERICANS suffer from melasma (from the Greek word melas, which means black), and half of these patients do not know what causes it or how it is treated. Great strides have been made toward understanding melasma. However, it is still one of the most frustrating and misunderstood conditions faced by both the clinician and the patient in the skin health industry today. Not only is melasma a women, it can also occur in women who are using birth control pills, undergoing hormone replacement therapy (HRT) or experiencing any hormonal fluctuation. Melasma also appears on the cheeks (21 percent of cases) and the jawline (16 percent of cases). Other areas of the body, such as the forearms, are also susceptible. Although it is most commonly seen in women, 10 percent of all melasma cases affect men.
Determining melasma depth

Determining the depth and severity of melasma is an important factor in setting realistic patient expectations. Because melasma can lie significantly deeper within the skin than ultravioletinduced or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), it may take up to six months for some patients to see any improvement in their skin. Unfortunately, patients suffering from dermal melasma may see little or no improvement, regardless of treatment. The Woods Lamp is a useful tool in determining melasma depth. There are many types available to the clinician, ranging from handheld models to more advanced machines. The Woods Lamp should be used in a dark room, approximately five inches away from clean, dry skin. The depth of melasma can be determined based upon how it illuminates: Epidermal melasma, the most common type, will illuminate under the Woods Lamp. It is characterized by an increased amount of pigment in all layers of the epidermis. Dermal melasma is characterized by increased amounts of pigment throughout the dermis. Because it is too deep for the light to reflect, this type of melasma will not illuminate under the Woods Lamp. Mixed melasma is characterized by an increase of pigment in both the dermis and epidermis, and will continues
Current treatment recommendations for melasma consist of gentle, blended chemical peels combined with daily care products formulated with mild melanogenesis-inhibiting ingredients.
complex condition to understand and treat, it is even more difficult to explain to our patients. In order to successfully treat melasmaor any other type of hyperpigmentationpresentation, depth, classification, disease pathway, potential causes and ingredient mechanism of action must be understood.
Definition
Melasma is most commonly seen on the central portion of the face (63 percent of cases), and is presented in large, dense patches with distinct borders. It is because of this presentation that melasma is also called the mask of pregnancy. While this condition does indeed affect pregnant and lactating
photo: puhhha/Shutterstock.com
Melasma lesions exhibit physiological differences from other types of hyperpigmentation. They have been shown to contain a higher amount of pigmentproducing melanocytes, which are larger and darker than normal, healthy melanocytes. In addition, the number of these melanocytes arms, or dendrites, that are responsible for transporting the bodies of pigment (melanosomes) is also higher. Melasma lesions have also been found to display an increase in vascularity and redness. The reason behind this is not known, and it is not always visible to the naked eye. However, the use of topical, anti-inflammatory products may also assist in reducing the visibility of melasma lesions.
skin|melasma
fluoresce under the Woods Lamp in some areas. Indeterminate melasma is very rare, and a Woods Lamp is not useful in this case. The Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI) is used to determine the severity of melasma. Each area of the face is categorized, and an overall score ranging from 0 to 4 is given based upon the percentage of the skin affected, and the darkness and uniformity of the patches: 0 = no abnormal hyperpigmentation is present 1 = less than 10 percent of area is covered by faint, barely visible hyperpigmentation 2 = 10 to 29 percent of area is covered by mild hyperpigmentation 3 = 30 to 49 percent of area is covered by moderate hyperpigmentation 4 = 50 to 69 percent of area is covered by severe hyperpigmentation levels can also stimulate the development of melasma. Medications such as contraceptives and hormone replacement therapy (HRT) also cause changes in hormone levels and can contribute to the onset of melasma. Other types of hormonal changes such as perimenopause and menopause can result in androgen (male hormone) dominance due to the decrease in estrogen and progesterone. Some studies have shown an increase in tyrosinase activity due to this higher androgen level. Thyroid or other hormonal disorders, such as polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), can also lead to melasma. These conditions are often identified as a cause of a patients melasma when no other obvious hormonal fluctuation has occurred. Because there are many hormonal disorders that cannot be identified by a blood test, it is not always possible to determine the offending component. Genetic predisposition is also a factor that explains why some people develop melasma and others do not. Those with an Asian or Hispanic background tend to be more prone to melasma, although it can occur in any complexion on the Fitzpatrick scale or ethnic background. and antioxidant protection and suppress pigment production. There are many ingredients that can be used in combination to treat melasma and create minimalif anyinflammation to the skin. Look for daily care products formulated with tried-and-true ingredients such as kojic acid, azelaic acid, lower percentages of hydroquinone (where applicable), lactic acid, retinoids and L-ascorbic acid. Blended peels that incorporate TCA or salicylic acid with these ingredients provide gentle, superior melanogenesis-inhibiting properties for in-office treatments. Other advanced ingredients such as phenylethyl resorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and alpha-arbutin provide excellent brightening properties without topical irritation or inflammation. A patients perspective is far different from the clinicians. Melasma patients want a quick fix for their condition, and most of these quick fixes involve inflammation. Patient education is imperative and the clinician must be armed with an understanding of the presentation of melasma, the tools to determine its severity and an understanding of ingredient mechanism of action in order to deliver realistic patient expectations. Take the time to explain what is known about melasma to your patients, as well as the importance of regular in-office treatments, daily care products and SPF use. Doing so will enable you to face melasma with confidence and ultimately deliver the consistent results your patients desire. n Brenda Linday has been involved in the skin care industry since 2002 as an esthetician and micro-pigmentation specialist. She speaks on skin physiology and treatment at medical and esthetic meetings around the country. Linday educates students at esthetic institutes throughout the United States, and also mentors and trains future educators for PCA SKIN.
Internal factors
Melanogenesis is the process within our skin that produces and duplicates pigment. Our melanocytes (melano meaning dark and cyte meaning cell) are anchored within the basal layer of the epidermis. When the melanogenesis response is triggered by inflammation, or in the case of melasmahormonal stimuli, the melanocytestimulating hormone (MSH) is then released, triggering a cascade of events that results in the production of pigment. While the exact cause of melasma is unknown, studies indicate that several internal factors may be responsible. Pregnancy and lactation are thought to contribute to melasma due to the increased production of estrogen and progesterone throughout the first two trimesters, as well as the elevated maternal testosterone levels that can occur in some cases. Additionally, MSH levels have been shown to increase during the third trimester. Once the baby is born, the progesterone and estrogen levels drop. This dramatic shift in hormone
Proper treatment
An abundance of studies surrounding melasma is ongoing, yet so much is still unknown. One thing remains constant, however, when treating this condition: inflammation must be kept at a minimum. For this reason, overly aggressive treatments with straight TCA (trichloroacetic acid) peels, high percentages of hydroquinone and light therapiessuch as IPL or lasersshould be avoided. Current treatment recommendations for melasma include gentle, blended chemical peels combined with daily care products formulated with mild melanogenesisinhibiting ingredients. Sunscreen use is mandatory when treating melasma. Ultraviolet exposure creates inflammation at the surface of the skin, ultimately exacerbating the condition. Be sure to look for broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection products that provide hydration
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skin
SPOTS BE GONE!
WINNING THE WAR AGAINST HYPERPIGMENTATION

HYPERPIGMENTATION IS ESSENTIALLY caused by the excess production of melanin resulting in the occurrence of darkened areas of skin. Causes range from sun exposure, post inflammatory issues such as acne scarring and wound healing; hormone fluctuations due to pregnancy or menopause; the use of ultraviolet-reactive oral and/or topical medications, in addition to a variety of medical conditions. Genetics are of major significance; the darker the skin, the more susceptible to discoloration. melanocyte and not fully understand it. Although researchers actually know a great deal about the melanocyte, what is not yet known greatly outweighs present knowledge.
Quest for understanding

Science is moving rapidly in its quest for a deeper understanding of the melanocyte and in the development of new ingredients and delivery systems for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Understanding the process of melanogenesis gives us the opportunity to attack this problem from many different directions, states Bryan Johns, CEO of Innovative Skin Care. We also know there are several other pathways that are involved in the hyperpigmentation process, such as inflammation, and the movement of melanin upward from the melanocyte to the keratinocytewhere the melanin becomes visible. There are new ingredients available that target these pathways as well. Using ingredients that address multiple pathways of hyperpigmentation produce exponential improvements, continues Johns.
What is melanogenesis?
According to NCBI (the National Center for Biotechnology Information), melanogenesis is defined as the entire process leading to the formation of dark pigments called melanin. The immune system is called into action when threatened by trauma. Additional pigment must be produced in order to protect the DNA from damagea formation of troops getting ready to face the enemy. The melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) triggers the activation of the enzyme tyrosinase that begins a series of events within the melanocyte. First, the tyrosinase acts as a catalyst to change the amino acid tyrosine to L-dopa. It also combines with copper to form dopaquinone. Second, the dopaquinone converts to granules of pigment called melanosomes. These melanosomes leave the melanocyte to travel along its dendrites that serve as pathways branching out from the melanocytes in many directions. Finally, the melanococytes are dumped into the keratinocytes to continue their journey to the surface of the skin, where they appear as hyperpigmentation. Those dreaded brown spots are simply a result of the body trying to protect itself from harm. In the book Advanced Professional Skin Care Medical Edition, renowned author Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., writes that A scientist could spend his or her whole life on the study of the
Tyrosinase inhibitors
Traditionally, we have used tyrosinase inhibitors such as kojic acid and arbutin to treat hyperpigmentation. They work by targeting the pathway of melanin production acting to interfere in the enzymatic sequence that produces melanin, according to Johns. The tyrosinase enzyme is as necessary to creating pigment as flour is to baking a cake. Thus, when the production of tyrosinase is stopped, additional pigment cannot be created. Commonly used tyrosinase inhibiters include hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, beta carotene, licorice extract, gluconic acid, azelaic acid, paper mulberry and vitamin C. Hydroquinone is not only the most wellknown, but also the most controversial tyrosinase continues
BY SHERRY TAYLOR AND LINDA RAE

original photo: Valua Vitaly/Shutterstock.com
skin|spots be gone!
inhibitor. It is available in a four-percent or higher concentration prescription strength and two-percent or lower over the counter strength. At this time, hydroquinone is the only lightening agent recognized by the FDA as a drug. Therefore, it is the only ingredient that can legally be referred to as a skin lightener and/or bleaching agent. All others must use terms such as brightener or whitener. Hydroquinone has been known to cause irritation in the skin and has the potential to produce a side effect known as ochronosis (in rare cases when high concentrations are used long term). Ochronosis is a dermatological disorder that may result in adverse pigmentationa bluish-black discoloration of the skin. Generally, in order to play it safe, it is suggested that hydroquinone-based products be discontinued after four to six months if no improvement is seen. Arbutin, also known as bearberry, is considered to be a natural, plant-
SKIN BONUS
The below ingredients are not specifically referred to as tyrosinase inhibitors, although they are often used together in order to produce better results. Norwegian kelp: An extract of Norwegian kelp inhibits the transport of melanin to the keratinocytes via the dendrites. This new, targeted ingredient is not only very effective, it is also said to be completely safe. N-acetyl (NAG): This is a pigment-lightening cosmeceutical. It decreases melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase glycosylation (a sugar chain reaction necessary for the production of melanin). Niacinamide: Along with soy proteins, this ingredient suppresses the transfer of melanosomes to the keratinocytes, which in turn produces a lightening effect. UPA (undecylenoyl phenylalanine): This element has been shown to inhibit the melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) from communicating with the melanocyte.
sourced derivative of hydroquinone. It has long been established as a wellknown tyrosinase inhibiting agent. It helps to lighten the skin without the associated risks of irritation. Kojic acid is the most intensely studied tyrosinase inhibitor, and is also used as a food additive to prevent browning. Sourced from mushrooms, it is the end product of fungal metabolism. With long-term exposure, melanocytes treated with kojic acid start to lose their dendrites (remember the highways), which in turn reduces the ability of the melanosomes to reach the keratinocytes. Beta carotene is a pro-vitamin A (a precursor of vitamin A) that reduces pigment formation by blocking tyrosinase receptors on the melanocyte. In this case, the tyrosinase cannot persuade the melanocyte to produce melanin. Licorice contains an extract called glabridin that inhibits the production of tyrosinase. Also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, it is often listed on product labels as glycyrrhiza. Gluconic acid comes from the oxidation of glucose and other sugars. It is a chelating agent, binding the copper molecules. Since copper is part of the chain reactiona necessary step in melanogenesisthe process of pigmentation ceases to continue. Azelaic acid is found in barley. Known for its use in acne therapy, its side effect is skin lightening. It selectively works on overactive melanocytes, rather than affecting normally pigmented skin. Paper mulberry, also referred to as mulberry extract, is a botanical plant extract that comes from a tree root, native to eastern Asia. The extracts of this root are potent inhibitors of the tyrosinase enzyme. It is not considered an irritant. Several forms of topical vitamin C have been shown to reduce melanin formation. These include L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. When used individually or together, these forms can assist in slowing down
hyperactive melanocytes, which results in lighter skin. Of course, they play an antioxidant role as well.
The importance of exfoliation and cell turnover

Along with inhibiting melanogenesis, estheticians must also treat the undesirable, visible dark blotches already present. Professional treatments such as microdermabrasion, photo facials and chemical peeling all have good track records in increasing cell turnover and decreasing excess surface pigmentation. Look for alpha hydroxyl acids (glycolic, lactic), mandelic acid, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), retinoids and sutilains (enzymes such as papain). All are excellent tools that can be used alone or in various combinations to help lighten the discoloration, revealing a more even skin tone. Tretinoin, the active agent found in medications such as Retin-A, Avita and Renova, is often prescribed by physicians to aid in cellular turnover, thereby speeding up the exfoliation process. Professional strength retinols work in much the same wayalthough not quite as potently as prescription strength, but they may also be less irritating. Increasing cell turnover helps to decrease the amount of pigment in the epidermis, since the melanocytes have less time to pass melanosomes onto the keratinocytes when cellular turnover is increased.
Until death do us part

Hyperpigmentation is one of the biggest wars we face as estheticians. When planning your strategy, the first step is to understand the enemy. Arm yourself with knowledge, attend trade shows, read articles and talk with sales representatives and educators from reputable companies. Ask them how ingredients work, what type of delivery systems are used and the stability of product formulations. Without up-todate information, some battles might be won, but the war could be lost. continues
From the lead inventor of Sonicare the Clarisonic Skin Cleansing System uses , patented sonic technology to remove more dirt, sebum and makeup than manual cleansing. By removing more impurities each day, skin is softer, smoother and more receptive to products and treatments. Beautiful skin begins with cleaner skin. And cleaner skin begins with Clarisonic. But dont just take our word, ask a colleague.
Cleanses 6X better than manual cleansing.
Clarisonic is a registered trademark of Pacic Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. Sonicare is a registered trademark of Philips Oral Healthcare Inc., which is not a liated with PBL or Clarisonic. 2011 Pacic Bioscience Laboratories, Inc.
Clarisonic.com/professional
skin|get out spot!
THE LIGHTENING OF HYPERPIGmentation can be improved significantly by attacking the process of melanogenesis. This can be accomplished with the help of ingredients that will: Reduce skin inflammation Inhibit the production of the tyrosinase enzyme
Interrupt the process of melanin synthesis Stop the melanosomes before they reach the keratinocytes Combat free radical damage with antioxidants Exfoliate to eliminate surface pigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is a never-ending battle. Clearly communicate to clients the extreme importance of maintenance. They must understand that even though their skin may be free of pigmentation now, those unattractive brown spots could return at any time if their skin is not well-maintained. Review their plan of action, including the proper use of sunscreen. We suggest the ongoing use of a melanogenesis inhibitor for prevention as part of a daily routine. Clients will be thrilled with your dedication to their success, which will most definitely result in referrals and the steady growth of your skin care business. n
Sherry Taylor currently serves as paramedical skin care instructor at Florida College of Natural Health, Fort Lauderdale, FL. She has previously served as director of esthetician training and development for a national chain of medical spas, and is also the owner of a successful skin care and image consulting business. In 2009 she joined forces with Linda Rae to form TaylorRaeConsulting and The Real World of Esthetics. Taylor can be reached at info@TaylorRae.net. L i n d a R a e is the owner of Linda Rae Skin Care and the creator of a results-oriented pre/post facial plastic surgery program. She was formerly an international educator for a major skin care line. In 2009 she joined forces with Sherry Taylor to form TaylorRaeConsulting and The Real World of Esthetics. Rae can be reached at info@TaylorRae.net.
by Danae Markland
skin|frosting versus blanching

understanding the difference
TRUST IS CRUCIAL IN THE CLINIcian-patient relationship. While it is often not overly difficult to build trust initially, it is nearly impossible to rebuild trust once it has been broken. If you think about, the amount of trust our patients instill in us with each treatment is truly amazing. They are putting their face in our hands. Not their feet or back, or something else that can be easily hidden if necessary. Their face ... this is a big responsibility. As clinicians, we have numerous treatment options available to us. Some of these focus on relaxation and superficial maintenance, while others work on a deeper level to create internal change and address specific skin conditions. Becoming more familiar with the products with which we treat our clients will help maintain patient trust by minimizing complications and maximizing results. In order to competently treat the skin, we must know not only that our products are working but how they are interacting with the skin. When working with more results-oriented procedures, we must be aware of potential complications and ways to overcome them if necessary. Two of the most misunderstood and misused complication-related terms in the industry are blanch and frost. While it is common for these terms to be used interchangeably, the actual definitions are incredibly different. Being able to distinguish a frost from a blanch is imperative to the safe and successful application of chemical peels and therapeutic treatment masks.
Whats what?
The reason blanching and frosting are easily confused is because of the white appearance on the skin that both of them induce. The important difference is what actually causes the white hue. Frosting is a salt precipitate on the surface of the skin. This is a crystal residue that occurs as certain peel components evaporate, resulting in an ashy appearance. True frosting has nothing to do with what is occurring within the epidermis and dermis, and only pertains to what is being applied to the surface of the stratum corneum. As more of the peel solution is applied, the residue will appear more prominent. Because of its color, frosting is more obvious in patients with higher Fitzpatrick skin types. Blanching refers to protein coagulationor a burn. As a blanch occurs, the skin will go from varying shades of light, ashy gray to bright white, depending on the depth of the burn. Many clinicians are intimidated by blanching and what it indicates. However, blanching is a huge part of medical skin care. The confusion also stems from the fact that many clinicians, physicians and even prominent medical textbooks use the term frosting to describe what is actually considered blanching. It is unclear when or how this misuse of terms came about; what is clear is that they each have distinct definitions, and there is a need for both terms in the industry. One simple way to determine whether the white appearance you see is an indication of salt precipitate (frosting)
or protein coagulation (blanching) is to swipe the affected area with an astringent toner. A frost will instantly disappear when wiped away, while a blanch will remain until the skin has normalized (approximately one to four hours post-treatment).
Why did my patient frost?

A frost is most common with straight salicylic acid peels, Jessners solutions and other treatments containing salicylic acid. Because frosting is merely a residue, you may choose to ignore the ashy appearance and continue on with the protocol. Although not necessary, the frost may also be wiped away using an astringent toner. continues
top: frosting; bottom: frosting under a Woods lamp
photos courtesy of PCA Skin
skin|frosting versus blanching
Why did my patient blanch?

Medium-depth and deep chemical peels are performed with the goal of inducing a full-face blanch. Today, trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is the most common peeling agent associated with blanching. Physicians and their staff will apply stronger peel solutions in layers until the desired level of white is reached the brighter the white, the deeper the peel has penetrated. While that is the intention of this level of treatment, such a reaction is accompanied by significant downtime post-peel. Patients can expect to experience a brown crust that resembles a scab in the days following a peel, in which a full-face blanch was achieved. As this crust peels off, the new underlying skin may be weeping, pink and extremely delicate. Many patients are not interested in this type of downtime. Therefore, a blanch is undesirable for many. Although it is often not the goal to induce blanching, the occasional spot blanch is to be expected with all types of corrective treatments. A spot blanch is a small area of blanching that occurs because the peel or treatment mask has penetrated deeper in one area than others. TCA is still the most common culprit for inducing a spot blanch. However, any peeling agent could potentially cause this type of reaction, depending on the strength of the acid and area of application. In my experience, unintended spot blanching typically occurs for one of three reasons: 1. The patient was using topical products at home that compromised the affected area. For example, if a patient was in the habit of applying a prescription retinoic acid product every evening on her crows feet, a spot blanch could occur in these areas. Higher percentage alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) products (10 percent or higher), prescription benzoyl peroxide (BPO), tazarotene and adapalene products may also increase the potential for spot blanching. It is important to note that many physicians offices choose to
pre-treat the skin with a prescriptionstrength retinoid to intentionally enhance peel penetration. This is an accepted method of pre-treatment, but
Follow up with the patient within 48 hours to ensure that the skin is healing properly.
always be aware that blanching is more common following the use of retinoids. 2. You or the patient have recently extracted or excoriated the area. Acne patients, for example, often experience spot blanching in areas of breakouts. If we extract a pustule, the area from which the debris was expelled is now open. This open area will naturally allow for deeper peel penetration in this spot. Areas that a patient has recently attempted to extract at home or places they have picked will also be more vulnerable to spot blanching. 3. Certain areas of the face are thinner-skinned and naturally more prone to spot blanching. The areas around the eyes, the upper lip and the nasolabial folds are among the most sensitive areas of the face. The skin is often thinner, drier and more compromised than other facial skin. Because of this, you may see an unexpected spot blanch in one of these areas.
penetrated deeper in the affected area, and they may experience increased redness, sensitivity and peeling in that spot. Review the importance of broadspectrum sunscreen post-treatment, particularly in the area of blanching, as this skin will be even more prone to damage. Ensure the patient has both a semiocclusive calming cream that can be applied to the area of blanching and a lighter calming cream to be used on the rest of the face. Ingredients like shea butter and hydrolyzed silk provide light occlusion without the greasy feel of petrolatum. Follow up with the patient within 48 hours to ensure that the skin is healing properly.
Educated treatments
Our patients trust us to know the ins and outs of the industry, and while they want dramatic results, many want these results with no downtime. Blanching and frosting certainly are not the only two misunderstood aspects of the industry. However, the confusion surrounding these reactions is not only difficult to comprehend, it is potentially dangerous to patients. By developing an understanding of what exactly is happening in the skin when either of these situations occur, we are better able to prevent and address potential complications. n
When it happens
If a blanch does occur, it is crucial to remain calm. While it is the indication of a burn, remember that a blanch is a desired outcome for many physicians. A spot blanch can be quickly alleviated, and although the patient may experience more peeling and sensitivity in the area, there are typically minimal side effects with spot blanching. The following steps should be taken in the event of an unintentional spot blanch: Explain to the patient that the peel
Danae Markland is a licensed esthetician and certified massage therapist. She has specialized in various therapeutic devices, corrective esthetics and laser treatment. Markland is the editorial manager for PCA SKIN and an advanced educator. She shares her passion for skin health with fellow estheticians and medical professionals at presentations all over the world.
UNDERSTANDING AND CORRECTING
sun damage
Damage to the framework of healthy skin
The extracellular matrix (ECM) is comprised of the structural components that make up skin. The ECM includes structural proteins (collagen and elastin), adhesive proteins (laminin and fibronectin), glycosaminoglycans (GAG) and proteoglycans. This structure, when strong and functioning as intended, lends strength, support and protection to the dermal cells. Over time, through intrinsic aging, this structure will slowly break down, leading to fine lines and laxity. Unfortunately, the majority of the ECMs breakdown can be attributed to extrinsic factors. And, as mentioned, UVR is the major offender. UVR stimulates the MMP enzymes that are responsible for the breakdown of these important proteins. These enzymes are triggered by as little as one-tenth of the dose of ultraviolet exposure required to develop sunburn. Knowing that ultraviolet exposure is also the most avoidable cause of accelerated skin aging, the use of protective and corrective measures will allow clinicians to spare or repair most patients skin from sun damage. In addition to the
photo: Yuri Arcurs/Shutterstock.com
THE GLOBAL POPULATION HAS ONLY recently begun to emerge from the days of the healthy tan. With the incidence of skin cancers on the rise, the importance of ultraviolet avoidance is only now beginning to sink in for the population at large. Unfortunately, even those who have had an epiphany and realized that sun avoidance is their best path to healthy, beautiful and cancer-free skin, their realization typically comes after decades of overexposure. This cumulative damage will eventually materialize on the surface as a combination of conditions collectively referred to as sun damage. Ultraviolet exposure is the single most preventable cause of premature skin aging and skin cancer. Understanding how sun damage presents itself in the skin and identifying the best treatment options will help you restore your patients skin back to its healthy state. Although everyones skin ages every day, only a small part of that skin aging is genetic, or intrinsic. It is believed that 85 percent of skin aging is due to external, or extrinsic, factors. Ultraviolet rays (UVR) are clearly the most egregious offenderand the most avoidable.
BY JENNIFER WILD, D.O.
skin
fine lines and laxity common to intrinsic aging, sun-damaged skin is also typically characterized by a coarsened skin surface and deeper wrinkling along with hyperpigmentation and dehydration. By mitigating the instigators of these visible signs of sun damage and aging, the path to skin rejuvenation is elucidated.
SUN-INDUCED HYPERPIGMENTATION MOST OFTEN APPEARS AS SPORADIC FRECKLING THAT MAY BE MORE PREVALENT ON THE HIGHLY EXPOSED AREAS OF THE FACE, LIKE THE TOP OF THE FOREHEAD, CHEEKS AND BRIDGE OF THE NOSE.
Epidermal coarsening
The keratinization, or abnormal buildup of keratinocytes, is referred to as coarsening. This dull, thickened and rough-textured appearance of the skin is a typical characteristic of sun-damaged skin. Many describe coarsening as having an orange peel or leather-like appearance. Repeated exposure to UVR can cause an overproduction of epidermal cells, potentially doubling the thickness of the stratum corneum. This dramatic, visibly rough-textured appearance only occurs in some cases of sun damage. beds, and fluorescent and ambient lighting. The increased inflammation levels throughout the epidermis and dermis caused by ultraviolet exposure trigger this melanogenesis process, stimulating the melanocytes to produce and deposit pigment. Sun-induced hyperpigmentation most often appears as sporadic freckling that may be more prevalent on the highly exposed areas of the face, like the top of the forehead, cheeks and bridge of the nose. Ultravioletinduced hyperpigmentation is also referred to as actinic hyperpigmentation.
Deep wrinkling
The intrinsic aging process results in the development of fine lines, but the appearance of deep wrinkling is directly associated with exposure to extrinsic factors. Portions of the ultraviolet spectrum penetrate deeply into the dermis and cause breakdown, cross-linking and disorganization of collagen fibrils. The breakdown and re-fusing of these fibrils into an angular pattern is referred to as cross-linking. This cross-linking of collagen fibrils compromises the support and structure of the ECM and results in deep wrinkling. Elastin, which is responsible for the skins ability to stretch and return to its normal structure, is also broken down by the MMPs triggered by UVR. Loss of elastin exacerbates skin laxity. Common MMPs that are increased by UVR include collagenase and elastase, which break down collagen and elastin, respectively. Studies have found that MMPs are increased within minutes of ultraviolet exposure, making even minimal ultraviolet exposure potentially destructive to the skin.
Epidermal dehydration
The skin of almost all patients fighting sun damage has a deficit of water moisture. Although sebum production wanes with age, it is incorrect to assume that reduced cutaneous sebum content is the cause of the dehydration associated with sun damage. The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the stratum corneum is a critical protective element in the skin. It keeps the skin supple and also plays a role in trapping moisture within the skin. As skin ages, this NMF degrades, making the loss of moisture easier. This drop in NMF levels occurs naturally with age, but is dramatically exacerbated by environmental exposure. (See table 1 on page 56). Even minor disruptions in this complex structure significantly decrease surface hydration, slow desquamation and impede cell turnover. Additionally, hyaluronidase, which is the MMP responsible for the degradation of hyaluronic acid, is increased by ultraviolet-induced inflammation and free radical damage. Sun-damaged skin typically has a thickened, dry stratum corneum that appears flaky, dull and rough. This ultraviolet-induced dryness is worsened by improper cleansing and moisturization practices, as well as the use of dehydrating ingredients. continues
UVR-induced hyperpigmentation
photo: Vaclav Volrab/Shutterstock.com
One of the most common concerns for all patients is the mottled, uneven complexion that is caused by excess, unwanted pigment deposit. Melanogenesis generates melanin in response to cutaneous inflammation. This can be due to ultraviolet exposure, cutaneous trauma, tanning
skin|understanding and correcting sun damage Combating sun damage

Clearly the first line of defense against sun damage, and really any premature skin aging, is daily use of a broad-spectrum sun protection product. This should be a year-round practice, as snow reflects 80 percent of UVR, while sand reflects 15 percent and water only 10 percent. Although many anti-aging skin care ingredients and treatments will help mitigate and repair the breakdown of important structural components of the skin, you still must shield it from further damage. In addition to being extremely important to avoid the development of skin cancer, SPF products protect the skin from the most aggressive and avoidable cause of skin aging, ultraviolet exposure. Sun protection factor (SPF) indicates the level of UVB protection provided by the product. Broad-spectrum indicates that the product protects against both UVA and UVB rays. The use of a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 every day and reapplication every two hours, or after swimming or perspiring, is the most important first step in fighting skin aging and sun damage. Increases fibroblast and collagen production Reduces collagenase synthesis (MMPi) Provides antioxidant protection Reduces post-inflammatory and UV-induced erythema Inhibits melanogenesis Retinoids (retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinol, retinyl palmitate): Increases fibroblast and collagen production Encourages proliferation of elastin and hyaluronic acid Induces desquamation and increased cell turnover Decreases collagenase and elastase levels (MMPi) Provides antioxidant protection Inhibits melanogenesis Melanogenesis inhibitors (hydroquinone, kojic acid, lactic acid, azelaic acid, licorice extract, etc.) Each inhibits the pigment-producing process at unique points. Several of these ingredients used in concert yields optimal results. Peptides There are multiple peptides available, each with its own unique function. Many stimulate collagen production. Matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors/ MMPi (vitamin E, beta-carotene, aloe vera) Inhibits the overproduction of MMP enzymes Humectants (glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, etc.) Attracts water moisture from the dermis into the epidermis, helping to rehydrate the stratum corneum Occlusives (dimethicone, shea butter, niacinamide, botanical oils) Traps water moisture within the skin Regardless of the multitude of effective anti-aging ingredients available, the single most critical step in protecting skin against sun damage is educating patients early on about the importance of daily use of a broad-spectrum sun protection product with an SPF of 30 or greater. But once a patient has developed sun damage, regular chemical peels and a daily regimen for home use that incorporates a collection of the aforementioned ingredients will allow the clinician to restore sun-damaged skin to a healthy, beautiful state. Prevention is optimal, but repair is within reach if necessary. n
table 1: composition of the skins natural moisturizing factor (NMF)* courtesy of PCA Skin
Additionally, chemical peels are an important part of the treatment plan for any patient fighting sun damage. Peels provide exfoliating benefits and the stimulation of collagen deposition that can significantly accelerate visible results. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), salicylic acid (BHA) and trichloroacetic acid (TCA) have all been proven to stimulate the production of collagen when used topically. Each selected acid will either dissolve dead skin cells or the desmosomal bonds that hold them together. These actions decrease surface cell debris, increase desquamation and support a strong and well-functioning NMF.
The armamentarium
The plethora of ingredients available today that are designed to correct skin conditions and protect healthy skin can be daunting. The following ingredients are proven to improve one or several of the common challenges associated with sun damage: coarsening, wrinkling, hyperpigmentation and dehydration. Polyphenolic antioxidants (EGCG, soy isoflavones, resveratrol): Prevents and reverses free radical damage Reduces inflammation Protects against DNA damage (skin cancer) L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) Stabilizes collagen
photo: Vaclav Volrab/Shutterstock.com
Jennifer Wild, D.O., currently serves as a national educator for PCA SKIN, and regularly speaks for the International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine. As an osteopathic physician and surgeon, Dr. Wild is board-certified in family practice and has served as a medical director for several successful medical spas throughout Arizona. Since 2004, she has pursued an active interest in esthetics, including the areas of dermal injections, laser services and professional skin care.
skin|news
SCIENTIFIC SENSATION
The Stem Cell 3D Complex from DermaQuest is the ultimate anti-aging weapon in skin care technology. The light, silky cream is made from the latest plant stem-cell technology, antioxidants, peptides and skin lightening ingredients, which work together in this formula to reveal a healthy, youthful glow, says the company. www.dermaquestinc.com
skin care products and treatments
NURTURING NUTRIENTS
The Cellular Matrix Cream from Nelly de Vuyst is a unique anti-aging formula made from salmon DNA, allantoin and a synergie of vitamins. It effectively reduces wrinkles, unifies the complexion and provides protection against age accelerating free radicals, says the company. www.nellydevuyst.com
TRUE TRANSFORMATION
Address pigmentary imperfections, lack of radiance and uneven, dull and blurred complexions with the new Brightening Hydrating Fluid from Academie Scientifique de Beaut. Vitamin C and licorice extract are included in this formula, which act on key phases of skin pigmentation, says the company. The fluid moisturizes and soothes the skin to reveal a clearer and brighter complexion. www.myRDM.com
POWER PAIRING
The Cellzyme Mask Set from DermAware, which includes the Bioenzyme Active Complex (Part I) and the Bioenzyme Activator (Part II), is a revolutionary system suitable for any skin type. The Cellzyme products have the unique benefit of healing and peeling at the same time, says the company. www.dermaware.com
PREMIUM DELICACY
Bio Jouvance presents an indulgent solution to anti-aging with the new Caviar Collection. Caviar extract is rich in skin boosting elements, including mineral salts, essential amino acids, structural proteins, essential fatty acids, peptides, oligoelements and vitamins A, E, K and B12, says the company. www.biojouvance.com
MORE NEWS
skin|news
REFRESHING REVIVAL
The newly formulated Oxygenating Trio from PCA Skin is an antioxidant therapy that works to prevent the most significant contributors to the aging process. The three steps of the system include the Activator, Detoxifier and Oxygenator. This treatment stimulates cutaneous oxygenation and circulation to rejuvenate sluggish, stressed out skin and uncover a radiant, glowing complexion. www.pcaskin.com
REJUVENATING REPAIR
The Herbal Deep Gel Cleanser by Alex Cosmetic delivers a cool and fresh sensation to skin as it addresses blemishes and impurities, says the company. Perfect for oily skin, the cleanser helps to tighten pores while removing excess oil and eliminating shine. www.alexcosmeticusa.com
BRIGHTER BEAUTY
The Timexpert White program from Germaine de Capuccini addresses hyperpigmetation with the exclusive melanolight process technology, which works before, during and after the formation of pigment, says the company. Timexpert White consists of a professional backbar program and four home care products for daily use. www.germaine-de-capuccini.us
pumpkin for face, body and soul

Enjoy the rejuvenating, hydrating and lifting effects of organic pumpkins and oranges from head to toe facial treatment, body wrap and the luscious scents of the holidays for the soul. As with the entire ilike line, these products are made of whole certied organic pulps not extracts! to retain the full benet of the herbs. Contact us for our newest hydrating organic pumpkin treatments for face, body, manicure and pedicure or to receive information about our BDIH certied ilike organic skin care products. 18882906238 www.szepelet.com the original skin care line made in Hungary over 50 years
Discover the difference between real pulps and extracts and let your skin decide!
skin|news
HYDRATION HELP
ACCELERATE repairing from Bio-Therapeutic is made up of a new formula featuring vitamin C, calcium and pssiflora edulis seed oil. It works to support skin health and the moisture barrier, says the company. www.bio-therapeutic.com
YOUTHFUL SPARK
Nourish skin and reduce the aging process with the 24K Gold Night & Day Cream from Beauty of Gold. The companys premier product is made from fine and pure ingredients to help rejuvenate the skin so it appears healthy, young and revived. www.dermaticessentials.com
BETTER BALANCE
Even Out from Hydropeptide is an antioxidant-packed skin brightening pigment corrector designed to lighten all types of hyperpigmentation, especially age spots, sun damage and acne scars without the negative side effects or irritation of hydroquinone, says the company. www.hydropeptide.com
HEALTHY GLOW
Rhonda Allison has launched a new peel collection consisting of a Flower Acid Peel, Lotus Peel and Hibiscus Peel/Phytic Pyruvic Solution. The serums are formulated with AHAs derived from lotus and hibiscus, and their lower pH levels provide a nonirritating skin rejuvenation peel with potent healing properties. Skin is left with a brighter tone, reduced pore size and a firm, smooth texture, says the company. The flower acids are perfect for aging, acne prone, discolored or hyperpigmented skin. www.rhondaallison.com
HydraFacial is the most popular skin procedure at my medical spa. It is also the most profitable, with a full return on investment within 3-4 months. The HydraFacial works wonderfully well with ZO Skin Health products. It works with any skin type and condition, stimulating and hydrating the skin, and accelerates and enhances results. -Zein Obagi, M.D.
HydraFacial SPA For Aestheticians
DOUBLE
hourly income
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Skin Health For Life

The HydraFacial is designed to restore overall skin health and quality. It's not your average quick fix-it procedure, and this means Skin Health For Life. Healthy skin should not be expensive and with the HydraFacial system, skin health will be affordable for clients and profitable for you.
Benefits
Double Your Revenue Per Client Provide Immediate Results With No Downtime Effective For Oily, Ethnic, Thin, Sensitive and Aging Skin Combine Cleansing, Exfoliation, Painless Extractions, Hydration and Antioxidant Protection Ranked Above IPL For Skin Rejuvenation omote Promote Overall Skin Health
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and visit www.hydrafacial.com/lne to see it in action on

HydraFacial MD, HydraFacial Nectre, and HydroPeel are registered trademarks of Edge Systems Corporation. HydraFacial, HydraFacial Wave, Vortex-Fusion, and Skin Health For Life are trademarks of Edge Systems Corporation. This product and its use may be covered by one or more of the following patents: Pat. Nos. 6,299,620, 6,387,103, 6,641,591, 6,629,983, 7,678,120, 7,789,886. Other U.S. and foreign patents pending. Copyright 2011 Edge Systems Corporation. All rights reserved.
SPA
TM
spa
by Dan Lok
THE BATHROOM IS GENER ALLY the smallest room in the spa, which also makes it the most overlooked space. Why is that? Many clients are won or lost by your spa/salon bathroom. Does your bathroom meet your clients standards? There is nothing as critical as a bathroom. If yours is filthy, you may lose a client forever. They may think you do not care enough about sanitation and are cutting corners or not cleaning properly.
create a luxurious, impeccable lavatory
Because it matters!
Most spa owners recall the news story about Paula Abdul contracting a nail fungus from a salon, which left her thumb so sore that even a slight touch to her hand made her scream. Who knows what other horror stories your client may have seen in the news or heard from fellow spa goers about staph infections and other maladies? Before you know it, your client may come to the conclusion that your spa/salon is unsafe and not properly sanitized. Do not take that chance! Do not give your clients any reason to think that if it can happen to Paula Abdul in her exclusive celebrity salon, then it could happen to them at your business. Be proactivemake sure that your bathroom reflects that you respect and care about your clients.
Bathroom dos and donts

photo: Nejron Photo/Shutterstock.com
DO: Make sure your bathroom reflects the quality and luxury of the rest of your spa/salon. DONT: Be cheap and cut corners. I have visited spas where it felt like the bathroom was an afterthought, as if the owners ran out of money. This is bad business.
DO: Have a signature piece (some type of conversation piece). Even better, have the piece reflect something about the owner. In my case, I chose a very unique and exclusive sink. The entire sink is made out of glass. Be sure to pamper your clients and make them feel like they are using a bathroom they would not find anywhere else. DONT: Be generic or just plain boring. Do not just get a plain toilet and sink from a local hardware store. Make a positive impression with your clients. Show them that you are a proud owner and care about the small details. Let your personality shine. DO: Make sure your bathroom is impeccable and clean at all times. My staff knows that the first thing to do every day is to clean the salonstarting with the bathroom, and continue to check it throughout the day. Set a high standard for your salon. Inspect the not-so-obvious places for cleanliness. DONT: Accept excuses and tolerate a messy or dirty salonespecially your bathroom! This is a cardinal sin. DO: Have a clean, elegant look to your bathroom. Make sure it is not cluttered with junk and old, torn magazines. DONT: Allow your bathroom to be a storage area for cleaning and other supplies. Extra stuff should not be stored in the bathroom. It is not a closet! DO: Add small touches. Make sure the hand soap dispenser is full. Have plenty of hand towels and toilet paper. In one of the drawers, keep an assortment of female hygiene products. A full-body mirror is a nice added touch. Make sure the mirror is clean, free of smudges or fingerprints.
DONT: Be lazy about the small details. Think about the little things you would want in your bathroom. Remember, your bathroom is a reflection of yourself and your salon. Do not be boring! n Dan Lok is the owner of Sweet Nail. An international best-selling author, he has shared the stage as a keynote speaker with renowned figures including George Foreman, Robert Kiyosaki and Jack Canfield. A selfmade millionaire by the age of 27, Lok wrote about his experiences as a business owner in his book, Lies Salon Owners Believe. He can be reached at danlok@salonbusinessexpert.com.
AUTUMN BODY ESSENTIALS

scrubs, blends and moisturizers
BY MARCIA FIALDINI
spa
LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW AND exciting to offer in the treatment room? Create your own body scrub blends and moisturizers to add a unique treat to your menus. Your clients will love you for it!
Body scrubs and essentials

An extension from face care, body treatments have become very popular in recent years. People are realizing that skin treatments do not stop at the face. Skin care has extended to body care as well. It seems that every skin care line has a body product line, from scrubs and washes to oils and creams. We are learning that clients want body microdermabrasion as well as other body exfoliations. With the vast selection of body exfoliations offered out there, its almost hard to keep track of them all. However, we find a way because our clients love them, not to mention that it helps us offer our clients more variety. There are so many body treatment options. This article covers key information on body scrubs, exfoliations and polishes, including some exciting scrub recipes that mimic popular body treatments from different eras in history. Add these to your menuyour intrigued clients will want to try each and every one!
messy when used by themselves. It is advisable to use it with a sugar. Tea: The contents of tea bags work well in body scrubs. Like coffee, they should be used with a sugar. Polishes: Body polish formulas include walnuts, cornmeal and sometimes peanuts. Due to the presence of nuts, it is important to make sure your clients do not have allergies. Dried herbs: You can crush dried herbs into the salts or sugar blends. Herbs and dried flower blends include: rose buds, lavender, lemongrass and chamomile.
Benefits for the body

Body exfoliation removes dead skin cells and softens skin. It provides deep hydration, a strong detox and increased blood circulation to the skin. A detox recipe would include Epson and Dead Sea salts, among others. Essential oils are also included for their benefits for the body and soul. The following are some examples of different types of oils and the problems they may help manage: Bergamot: anxiety and depression Chamomile: stress and irritability Cinnamon: stress, exhaustion and digestion issues Clary sage: moodiness, panic and imbalances Frankincense: dry skin, fear and grief Geranium: unbalanced mood and depression Grapefruit: seasonal disorders and depression Jasmine: nervousness, tension and dry, sensitive skin Lavender: bipolar disorders, skin inflammation Lemon: nervous conditions and depression Neroli: anxiety, depression and nervous tension Peppermint: stimulation and headaches Rose: depression, anxiety and feelings of hopelessness Sandalwood: depression and apprehension Tangerine: depression Tea tree: viral or bacteria infections Ylang-ylang: anger and listlessness continues
PUMP UP RETAIL SALES BY CUSTOMIZING PERSONALIZED SCRUBS FOR CLIENTS. BE CREATIVE.
Defining body exfoliations

People sometimes get confused about all the different kinds of body treatments, especially when it comes to exfoliations. The following are some examples of body exfoliations. Salts: The salt glow is a great body exfoliation. However, it can be a little drying to the skin. The following types of salts are used for body treatments: Dead Sea salts Epson salt Bamboo jade salt Celtic salt Sugars: Sugar treatments have become increasingly popular over the years. They are less drying than the salts. Two types of sugar are typically used in body scrubs: Raw sugar Sugar cane Coffee: Finely ground coffee is an effective ingredient in body exfoliation treatments. However, coffee grounds can be extremely
client: wavebreakmedia ltd/Shutterstock.com; background: Stas Moroz/Shutterstock.com
spa Time-release body scrub recipes

Want to invoke decades of beauty? Try these era-inspired body scrubs. 1950s: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup Dead Sea salt, 1/3 to 1/2 cup crushed dried small roses, and 1/3 to 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Add 2 to 3 drops of rose oil. 1960s: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup epsom salt (finely ground), 1/3 to 1/2 cup jojoba oil, and 2 to 3 drops of patchouli essential oil. Add in 2 drops clary sage. 1970s: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup Dead Sea salt and 1/3 to 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Then add 2 to 3 drops of musk fragrance oil and 2 drops neroli oil. 1980s: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup jade bamboo salt or Dead Sea salt with 1/3 to 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Then add 2 to 3 drops of water goddess oil and 2 to 3 drops tangerine oil. 1990s: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar cane with 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil. Then add 2 to 3 drops vanilla oil and 2 to 3 drops orange oil.
ANCIENT TIMES, MODERN RECIPES

Even back in ancient times, body treatments were all the rage. Age of extravagance: Women would bathe in milk and strawberries to keep their skin soft and smooth. The lactic acid in the milk would also help with the exfoliation process. Todays blend: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup of raw sugar with 3 tbsp. dried, crushed strawberries and 3 tbsp. dry milk. Add in 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil and 3 to 4 drops strawberry oil. Greece: Greek women would bathe in olive oil to hydrate their skin. They also used honey. Todays blend: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup of sugar cane with 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil. Add in 1 tsp. of honey and 1 tbsp. cornmeal. Rome: Roman women would use fragrances from flowers, and almonds for their beauty routine. Todays blend: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Epsom salts and 3 tbsp. of finely ground almonds. Then add in 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil. Add in 3 to 4 drops of rose oil and 2 drops of chamomile oil. Blend. Hebrew: Hebrew women would use olive oil, cinnamon, pomegranate, myrrh, grapefruit oil and grapeseed oil near the Black Sea. Todays blend: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Dead Sea salt to 1/3 to 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Add in 2 drops of cinnamon oil and 1 tsp. pomegranate concentrate. Blend. Victorian Age: Women in the Victorian age would use eggs, honey, milk, oatmeal, fruits and vegetables on their skin. Todays blend: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Dead Sea salt to 1/3 to 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Add in 1/4 cup finely ground oatmeal. Then add 1 tbsp. honey and 1 tbsp. dried milk. Blend. India: Women from India would use spearmint and honey on their skin. Todays blend: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Dead Sea salt to 1/3 to 1/2 sweet almond oil. Add in 2 drops of spearmint oil and 1 to 2 tbsp. honey. Blend. Egyptian times: Women from Egypt would use grapeseed oil, lemons and cinnamon on their skin. Todays blend: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Dead Sea salt to 1/3 to 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Add in 3 tbsp. of brown sugar. Then add 2 to 3 drops of lemon oil with 1 tbsp. of honey and 2 drops of cinnamon oil. Blend.
EVEN IN ANCIENT TIMES, BODY TREATMENTS WERE ALL THE RAGE.
2011: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar cane with 1/3 to 1/2 sweet almond oil. Then add 2 drops of lavender oil, 2 drops lemon oil, and 2 drops lime oil. This recipe is great for people who suffer from seasonal disorders, as it imparts cheer.
Sugar, spice and everything nice

These recipes are guaranteed to satisfy even the biggest sweet tooth. Cinnamon roll: Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar cane and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil. Add 3 drops vanilla oil and 2 drops cinnamon oil. Raspberry mocha: Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar cane and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil. Add 1 tbsp. dark cocoa and 2 to 3 drops of alcohol-free raspberry flavoring. Then add 1 tbsp. of finely ground dried coffee. Cherry blossom: Cherry vanilla and orange inspired scrub. Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar cane with 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil. Add 2 tbsp. of alcohol-free cherry flavoring, 2 to 3 drops vanilla oil and 2 drops orange oil. Vanilla latte: Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup finely ground raw sugar and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet continues
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spa|autumn body essentials

almond oil. Add 3 tbsp. dry ground coffee, 2 tbsp. dry milk. Lastly add 2 to 3 drops vanilla oil. Sweetened green tea lemonade: Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar cane and 1/3 to 1/2 cup of sweet almond oil. Add 3 tbsp. dried green tea (you may also use dried green tea bags in place of loose green tea). Lastly, add 2 to 3 drops lemon oil. canes. Add 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil and 2 to 3 drops peppermint oil. Blend. Note: You can find many of the recipe ingredients at natural foods stores and online retailers.
HOST MAKE IT YOURSELF PARTIES IN YOUR TREATMENT ROOMS, WHERE CLIENTS AND THEIR FRIENDS CAN COME IN FOR RECIPE CLASSES.
Body creams
Indulge your clients with these delectable body cream blends. Shea lavender vanilla blend: Combine shea lotion with 2 to 3 drops lavender oil and 2 to 3 drops vanilla oil. Add more shea lotion. Blend. Shea rose and amber blend: Combine shea lotion with 2 to 3 drops of rose oil and 2 to 3 drops amber fragrance oil. Add more shea lotion. Blend.
Floral-based body scrubs

Romance in the air? Try these floral-based recipes. Lavender, rose blend: Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup Dead Sea salt with 1/3 to 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Add 2 drops lavender oil and 2 drops rose oil. Autumn leaves: Use 1/3 to 1/2 cup Dead Sea salt and 1/3 to 1/2 cup grapeseed oil. Add 2 to 3 drops amber fragrance oil and 2 drops clary sage.
Retail ideas
Pump up retail sales by customizing personalized scrubs for clients. Be creative. You will need the following supplies: jars, sugars, salts, grapeseed oils, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, shea butter or shea lotion (for cream recipes), essential oils, fragrance oils, dried herbs and jar dcor (to wrap the jars with), ribbon and wrapping paper of your choice. Make sure management at your salon/spa approves of this process. Some salons may have strict retail rules. Have fun!
Holiday cheer body scrubs

The holidays are fast approaching and these body scrubs add just the right element of festivity. The Christmas tree: Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup bamboo jade and 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil. Add 2 to 3 drops pine essential oil. Eggnog: Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup finely ground raw sugar with 1/3 to 1/2 cup sweet almond oil. Add in a pinch each of cinnamon and powdered nutmeg. Add 2 tbsp. of dry milk. Blend. Candy cane (popular blend): Combine 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar cane and 2 finely ground candy
Retail promotion ideas

Host make it yourself parties in your treatment rooms, where clients and their friends can come in for recipe classes to make their own body exfoliations and creams. Clients will love this idea. It is a promotional great event to hold around the holidays. You can also make body sets for your special clients as a party favor to thank them for coming. n
**The author wishes to dedicate this article to her niece Kristina Fialdini and her beloved Bella. Marcia Fialdini is an esthetician, esthetics educator, freelance writer and spa consultant. She also has previous experience as a media makeup artist. Fialdini started the first advanced spa school program in the state of Nevada, and is the author of the book Earthly Essentials. To contact Fialdini, email her at marconna1@yahoo.com.
photo: Matka Wariatka/Shutterstock.com
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Natural Magic Acu-Pearl Facial Points

all points are bilateral, except midline
MERIDIAN MAGIC
for beauty and balance
TRADITIONAL CHINESE MEDICINE HAS been used successfully for more than 5,000 years. The focus is not on the symptom but rather the balance of chi energy, the vital energetic force that sustains all life and supports the health of the physical body. Chi energy flows along interconnected and invisible pathways of the body known as meridians. Each meridian governs the health of an organ (which it is named for), and is associated with an emotion, color, taste, sound and season. According to acupuncturist Yvette Dellanini-Ward, who specializes in Chinese medical dermatology, When there is a slight imbalance in one meridian or organ, it can affect all the pathways. Whether the imbalance is physiological, emotional or environmental it can create disharmony. Within chi there are two polarities, called yin (feminine) and yang (masculine). All of creation has this duo-energy balance. Reflect on the energies of gravity and centrifugal force. They are two halves of the same whole. One cannot exist without the other. Hold your arms above your head while looking in the mirror. Think of yang energy coming from the sun and moving down your body, while yin energy comes from earth and flows up your body. The outer body and back are yang, and the inner body and front are yin.
Organs and emotions associated with meridians

There are 12 main meridians in the body, listed in yin/yang pairs with the associated organs and emotions as shown below. By tracing the meridians with your hands, you encourage physical, mental and emotional balance.
Stress reduction with acupressure

Dellanini-Ward performed facials as an esthetician before becoming an acupuncturist. To enhance the health and appearance of the skin for clients, she recommends utilizing acupressure points, which run along the meridians. She says, Stimulating acupressure points on the face encourages blood flow, balances and nourishes a deficiency, or opens a blockage. During your facial massage, when you feel a depression under the skin, gently press and hold these points to stimulate the energy. Help your clients relax during a facial by stimulating the yin tang point located directly between the brows. This acupressure point is calming and soothing, and can soften worry lines between the brows. It is said to improve intuition, mental clarity and focus. Gently press and release with your fingers in this area (refer to facial chart).
BY LINDA BERTAUT
chart courtesy of Linda Bertaut
spa
The four gates

The four gates are a combination of two pairs of points on the hands and feet used to increase circulation and blood flow for the entire body. They help to reduce stress and tension, and are especially beneficial in helping women regulate hormonal imbalances, ease P.M.S. and calm irritability. Pain felt while stimulating these areas is a sign that there is a blockage or imbalance of chi. It is important to note that the four gates are contraindicated during pregnancy. The first set of points are the command points for the face. They open circulation and nourish the face and have been known to treat dental issues, headaches, sinus problems and eye conditions. Located on each hand, massage the webbing between the thumb and index fingers. The second set of points are located on the top of the foot between the webbing of the big and second toe. These points bring energy down from the face and are helpful in treating chronic headaches, a restless mind and insomnia. They are also useful for addressing hormone imbalances and clearing toxins from the blood, and are thought to help lighten liver spots, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. Separate the big and second toes and massage the webbing with your thumb and index finger.
supports the yang meridians of the small intestine, large intestine and triple warmer. Repeat this cycle three times on each arm before tracing the body meridians. Cycle Two: Head/Torso 1. Start with both hands on the cheeks and fingers reaching the temples. Move your fingers toward the center of your face and trace over your head to the back of your neck. Move your hands toward your shoulder blades, then down the entire side of your body, and finally down the outer legs to the outer ankles and touch your four outer toes; this supports the yang meridians of the bladder, gallbladder and stomach. 2. Now, move both hands to the big toe and trace to your inner ankle, and then up the entire inner leg, from the ankles to the pubic bone. From here, turn your hands sideways to cover as much of your upper body as possible. Trace hands up the stomach, past your clavicles to rest again on the face. This covers the yin meridians of the liver, spleen and kidneys. Repeat this meridian cycle three times to reinforce the energy flow of all 12 major meridians. The following two meridians are located on the midline of the body and are used to enhance the other meridians. 1. The central meridian strengthens your energy. This may be used at the end of a treatment for clients as well. Trace slightly off the body from the pubic bone, up the center of the body to the indentation on the chin below the lower lip. continues Yin energy Feminine Up In Dark Moon Soft Cold Right brain
Stimulating acupressure points on the face encourages blood flow, balances and nourishes a deficiency or opens a blockage.
Trace your meridians

The meridians flow in yin/yang pairs in a continuous cycle that can be traced up and down your body. Trace the meridians with your hands slightly off the body to balance energy daily, as directed below: Cycle one: Arms 1. Start mid-breast at your upper torso, and trace your hand along the inside of your arm, to the inner elbow and over your palm to cup your fingertips; this stimulates the yin meridians of the heart, lung and circulation sex. 2. Turn your palm outward and trace your pinky finger along the outside/back of the arm, over your shoulder and place your hand flat on your cheek with fingers reaching the temple; this
Yang energy Masculine Down Out Light Sun Hard Hot Left brain
spa|meridian magic
Take time to clear your energy with acupressure and tracing the meridians.
2. The governing meridian gives you the backbone to assert yourself. Trace from your tailbone, up the center of your spine, over your head and down the center of your face to the indentation between the nose and upper lip. You will need both hands to trace this meridian on yourself, and only one hand with clients. Repeat this cycle three times. We are multifaceted beings with physical, mental, emotional and spiritual bodies. Being Yang meridian Large Intestine Stomach Balanced emotion Courage Trust Out of balance emotions Sadness/Grief Worry/ Obsessive Thinking Anxiety Fear/Shock Anger/Rage Shock/ Depression
full of our own chi allows us to intuit information that provides clear vision and the ability to communicate that vision from the heart. Take time to clear your energy with acupressure. By tracing the meridians, you will bring more harmony and peace to your work and have the will and passion to walk your unique path. n
Yin meridian Lung Spleen
Heart Kidney Liver Pericardium
Small Intestine Bladder Gallbladder Triple Warmer
Joy/Peace Wisdom Kindness Happiness
Author, esthetician, Reiki master teacher and award-winning innerand outer-beauty expert, Linda Bertaut specializes in bringing inner beauty to the surface. Known as the Reiki master teacher of the beauty industry, Bertaut founded Bertaut Beauty to help professionals add value to their services by training them in her signature wellness techniques and products. Contact her at Linda@BertautBeauty.com or call 626.405.0424.
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PUSH THE LIMITS
body, equipment and supply products
Treat your clients to the ultimate facial with the HydraFacial procedure from Edge Systems. The all encompassing service provides cleansing, exfoliation, extraction and hydration while delivering antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid to the skin, says the company. The 30-minute service produces immediate results with no downtime or discomfort. The multi-modality machine can be used for other resurfacing procedures as well, such as LED light therapy and lympathic drainage therapy. www.edgesystemscorp.com
ON THE DOUBLE
The potent PFB Vanish + Chromabright is a dual-function post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation product that knocks out both ingrown hairs and dark spots. It is 45.9 percent more effective than kojic acid and hydroquinone, says the company. www.pfbvanish.com
OUT OF THE WAY

Keep every last strand of your clients hair out of their faces during facial treatments with the Microban Turban from Hollywood Face. This luxuriously soft, naturally anti-bacterial turban is made from a blend of cotton and eco-friendly bamboo. It is banana shaped, allowing for a perfect fit. www.hollywoodface.com
WASH ON!
Introduce your clients to the magic of Solise Body & Hand Wash Sunscreen, and you will not need to nag them about wearing their sunscreen. The groundbreaking bathing formula leaves SPF 15 protection on the skin after being rinsed off and dried! Solise contains natural emollients and skin conditioners to deliver the same experience as a premium body wash, says the company. www.solise.com
MORE NEWS
spa|news
WEAR IT WELL
Clients seeking a noninvasive body contouring treatment will love the SlimVest from Liquid Ice CosMedicals AG. It can be used to complement surgery or laser treatments, helping to reduce post operative swelling, bruising and pain, says the company. SlimVest treatments consist of a four-week intensive program and a four-month maintenance kit. The entire kit can also be sold to clients for home use. The unique self cooling treatments from Liquid Ice CosMedicals AG are designed for post-surgical and esthetic dermatology care. www.icemask.com
BRONZE AND BEAUTIFUL

The Flawless Self-Tan Liquid from Fake Bake is an easy to use selftanning formula suitable for any skin type. A professional application mitt is included for application, enabling the effortless gliding strokes for a flawless, even and sunless tan that lasts up to a week, says the company. www.fakebake.com
RETAIN RESULTS
Offer your clients a tool they can use at home between treatments to maintain the fresh looking results from their facial. The Point from Tei Spa Essentials uses galvanic technology to firm, tighten and reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness, says the company. www.teispa.com
Antigua Colonial with custom panels
Oakworks, Inc 2011
Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa in Philadelphia at BOOTH 534
business
by Tammy Finch
PROVIDING QUALITY ONLINE customer service is extremely important to your business success. Even if people truly want the product or service you provide, they will forgo it if they receive unsatisfactory customer service. You have to go that extra mile when it comes to providing quality customer service online, especially when competitors are ready to pounce on that jilted client. A computer simply cannot provide the smile that means all the difference in face-to-face customer service. Therefore, you must take steps to optimize your website to make it more customerfriendly. Here are some tips that will help you to provide positive and highquality customer service online.
quality customer service: the key to online success
formed decision now, they will be more likely to stay on the page and possibly purchase the product/service you are selling.
Email newsletter
Setting up an email newsletter is an essential tool for quality customer service. Email marketing systems such as Constant Contact or a free program, MailChimp. com, are software that allow you to send emails each month to hundreds of clients at once without causing issues with your mail-host. You can create beautiful, eye-catching emails from the hundreds of templates available. One of the best parts of email marketing is the reporting tools. Reporting tools within the email marketing programs can tell you who opened the email, what links were clicked on and if your email was forwarded to a friend. Why is this important? A great example can be: your email contains a link to register for a workshop you are giving. You see that someone had clicked the link but did not register for the workshop. You can contact that person via email and ask them if they had trouble registering or if they would like a coupon for the workshop. By seeing the client clicked the link, you know the interest is there.
(www.youtube.com) will allow you to post these videos for free and also give you a link to embed on your website. YouTube boasts one billion views per day on its website so the chances of your video being seen are very good.
Contact information
People may need additional information regarding the product or service you offer. Provide contact information that is easily accessible. Make sure to include an address, phone number, fax number and email address. Provide an actual link to your email address. If you have a location or storefront, Google Maps will allow you to place a map with driving directions on your website. This will enable clients to find you easily.
Feedback
Ask customers to communicate with you through feedback. People feel that if they are given this opportunity, even if it is negative, then they can trust your company. Make communication easy for clients by using social media tools such as Facebook. Most importantly, follow up with your clients after they leave feedback. These simple strategies can help provide the customer service your potential clients need, which gives them that extra bit of security when trying to make a decision on whether to buy from you or your competitor. n Tammy Finch is the owner of Web Tech Services in East Peoria, IL. Her company currently maintains websites and social media accounts for several hundred clients. Finch leads workshops about social media, Internet marketing and Facebook, and works as social media consultant for various corporations.
woman with laptop: Darren Baker/Shutterstock.com; website: vectorlife/Shutterstock.com
FAQ page
A FAQ (frequently asked questions) page helps your customers find answers to their questions immediately without having to contact you. This is very important because it addresses the needs of the customersometimes before they even realize they have a particular question. The key to success is capturing your customers attention before they leave your website. If you provide them with the answers they need to make an inOctober 2011 Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa
Video how-tos or testimonials

Online videos are very popular. Many spas and salons can get a great customer connection with how-to videos. For instance, a video that demonstrates proper methods for hair care can be much more convincing than an article. You can even end the video with links to the products featured to generate sales. Do you have clients who love you? Why not make a video of their testimonials so others can see it? YouTube
business
face time with celebrity esthetician, entrepreneur and innovator

JOANNA VARGAS HAS BEEN A New York state licensed esthetician for 15 years and has clients from all over the globe ... Mumbai, Dubai, Rome, Tel Aviv, Paris, London and Los Angeles are all ports of call for her. Certified in manual lymphatic drainage from the renowned Dr. Vodder School International, she also holds a BA from the University of Chicago. In November 2006, she officially opened the doors to her namesake salon on Manhattans Fifth Avenue and never looked back. In the past year, she has introduced the worlds first LED Light Therapy BED (patent-pending) and her own organic skin care product line.
Q: JV: Q: JV:
What did you want to be when you grew up and why? I loved beauty products since I was a little girl. I would spend hours in the local pharmacy trying new things, looking at the packaging, smelling things. I knew I wanted to work in the beauty field. First jobs? In high school, I worked in retail. I loved fashion magazines and I graduated college thinking I wanted to be a photographer. Moving to New York and starting in that field was a wake-up call. I did not really have the personality for fashion. So I got my esthetics license thinking perhaps makeup. But once I learned how to give a facial, I had found my calling. I love taking care of and meeting people from all over the world. The best thing about my job now as a salon owner is that I get to be the researcher/developer of all that we do. It is so rewarding
by Samuella Becker
to be able to tell clients that I offer the best in beauty technologies. The look on someones face when they realize they love their skin is something that gets me excited to this day. Lessons learned from the early days that you still use today? Customer service is really a lost art. It is so rewarding to be able to provide the client with what they want. Do that and you will have that client for life. What prompted you to take the entrepreneurship leap? Even a great job that pays well can be dead end. I was successful, training others and doing all I could. After five or six years, I was still doing the same thing. It took a lot of introspection and honesty for me to come to the realization that I was going nowhere. I had to take a chance and move on. When did you know you were successful? Two weeks before I opened my salon, clients were calling nonstop begging me to open early. I ended up opening five days early to accommodate a client who flew in from Europe just to see me. That is when I knew. What made you steer away from the traditional spa setup? I think that the modern woman does not have a lot of time continues
Q: JV: Q: JV:
Q: JV: Q: JV:
spa
Q& A
with Joanna Vargas
JOANNA VARGAS SALON SKIN CARE SANCTUARY 501 FIFTH AVENUE, SUITE 2011 NEW YORK, NY 10017 212.949.2350 WWW.JOANNAVARGAS.COM
JV:
Q:
photos courtesy of Joanna Vargas Salon
to spend on herself. If a client gives me an hour, I need to focus on showing her results. A great result will really get a client to return every month in spite of her busy life. Do you have treatments, products or machines that are exclusive to your salon? All of my treatments have been designed by me and are exclusive. For example, I do a 30-minute treatment that includes a diamond peel, LED light therapy and oxygen. I do not know of anyone who offers that anywhere. I also have just recently introduced my own LED Light Bed to the spa menu. I designed the machine and had it made, so no one else has it yet, and it is by far the most popular item on the menu right now. Generally speaking, with regular clients, they all receive a customized program designed specifically for their individual needs. What is your signature treatment? The Triple Crown Facial with microcurrent technology drains out excess water, and tightens the muscle and skin. It basically gives the tissue an extra source of energy so the cells can function as they did when the client was younger. Think of it as going to the gym for the face muscles. The results are cumulative. I have cli-
Q: JV:
Q: JV:
ents who swear they look better than their younger siblings. What is the most common beauty mistake you see women making? By far the most common error for most women is not exfoliating their skin on a regular basis. It is funny clients tend to have one common complaint about their skin: it just does not glow. Exfoliating the dead cells and surface dirt twice a week is really such a simple yet effective way to achieve great-looking skin in the matter of minutes. What are some of your favorite anti-aging ingredients? A key ingredient in my serums is galactoarabinan (GA), which is derived from the larch tree. GA boosts the immune system and is recognized by the FDA as a source of dietary fiber. Studies have shown it can minimize fine lines, inhibit moisture loss and speed cell turnover. It also increases metabolism in the cells by increasing ATP production, making it firming. What is the most interesting thing you have learned about skin care during your career? Well, I have two answers. One: that the skin is constantly changing depending upon our lifestyle, the weather, our diet, everything. I love a skin regimen that takes all of that into consideration. Two: that all of us need to be more observant. The skin tells us a lot about what is working or not working about our lives if we care to look. What are some of best foods we can eat for skin health and why?
Q: JV:
Q: JV:
I always recommend apples, like applesauce in your yogurt or oatmeal for breakfast. It helps you digest well. I also give my clients juicing recipes. A green juice makes it easy for the body to assimilate all those essential nutrients to your connective tissue. In other words, it is great for elasticity and looking glowing all day. What is your personal beauty regimen? I practice what I preach. I cleanse nightly before bed and follow up with night serum. I also use a cucumber eye cream. I scrub twice a week, both face and body, and in the daytime I use serum. I drink a green juice dailycucumber, spinach, apple and celerywhich is just amazing for the whole body, but especially the skin. I have monthly facials and weekly LED sessions. I am a big believer in feeling good from the inside out; no one is more beautiful than a confident woman, so I try and do things that make me feel good about myself, like exercise and eat well. What is the secret to your success? Believing in myself and having an amazing staff of incredibly able, hungry, intelligent people. Most of all, it is having the support and strength of my family behind me. If they were not there for me, I would not have been able to do this. n
Q: JV:
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Samuella Becker is the founder and CEO of TigressPR. She is especially passionate about launching new businesses, which she did for the Joanna Vargas Salon Skin Care Sanctuary in 2006. Other current clients include The Actors Studio Drama School at Pace University, holistic nutritionist and author Sally Kravich and the MIT Enterprise Forum of NYC. Learn more about Becker at www.linkedin.com/in/samuellabecker.
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by Pam Stellema
business| turn over a new leaf

making changes in your business
WITH THE ECONOMIC CLIMATE being what it is, there will never be a better time than right now to review your business, discard what is no longer working well for you, and find new and better ways to make your salon or spa more profitable. Turning over a new leaf requires a little time out from working in your business and using that time to plan for a more profitable future. Start by making a list of what you know needs to be changed or improved. Then begin to create actions around each of the items so that you will get the results you are seeking. Here are 10 tried-and-tested strategies for you to consider, which will help you to turn over a new leaf and grow your salon profits. NO. 1: Create some realistic goals. Goal setting is easy and delivers great results when you know how to do it. Do not set yourself up for failure by setting goals you are not likely to achieve. Try looking for various small improvements you can make across a range of areas in your spa or salon. You can leverage incredible improvements by simply making small, positive changes across various sections of your business. The synergy of multiple small improvements can make a huge impact on your bottom line.
NO. 2: Stop hogging all the responsibility and start delegating. Why is it that most owners believe that they are the only ones who can tackle every job and do it success-
NO. 3: Develop low-cost client attraction strategies. Client attraction strategies do not have to cost you an arm and a leg. Try an active referral program where you use your existing
Choose the person for the role carefully, train them well and clearly explain what you want the outcome to be.
photo: Patrizia Tilly/Shutterstock.com
fully? If this sounds like you, it might be time to learn the art of good delegation, and find ways to use it every day. Look for the strengths that each individual team member brings to your business and delegate work to those people who are capable of doing the job well. I am not suggesting you just throw someone into a new role without any training; that would be a recipe for disaster. Instead, choose the person for the role carefully, train them well and clearly explain what you want the outcome to be. When you master this, you will not only free up your valuable time for the more important role of business planning, but you will be giving your team members the opportunity to grow professionally and personally as well.
clients to introduce their friends to your salon or a cross promotion with another business who has the kind of clients you would like to attract. NO. 4: Start networking in your local area. Every community has groups and associations that are looking for guest speakers. Develop a short educational talk about the services you offer. Keep it free of the sales pitch, deliver something worthwhile to your audience and make sure your information is relevant to their needs. Do not forget to provide a special offer for your audience, and make sure you take along plenty of business cards to give out. This is a fantastic opportunity to start a relationship with potential clients. continues
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business|turn over a new leaf
If you are not sure where to start, ask your clients what local groups they belong to and take the necessary steps to put yourself in front of your local community. These people are the ones who are most likely to become your best clients.
NO. 7: Update, repair and replace. If it is broken, inferior or tatty, get rid of it! Also, if you have team members who fall into any of these categories, the advice remains the same. You simply cannot deliver first-class services if you are working with terrible staff,
For those services that are not making you enough profit, it might be time to consider either replacing them or increasing their price.
NO. 9: Plan a holiday. Too often, major burnout of owners occurs because they fail to look after themselves, fearing the total collapse of their businesses. If your business really cannot manage without you for more than a few days at a time, then plan a minimum of four small breaks over the next 12 months. You will be amazed at how much clearer you can think when you have had a rest and time away from your spa. If you do not think this is possible, refer to my advice earlier in this article on delegation. NO. 10: Invest in professional help. No one can be an expert in all things. If you try to do it all, your business will suffer and so will you. Take advantage of the myriad of service providers who can help keep your business on track. Getting the right help in your business is an investmentnot an expense. It is far better to avoid the pitfalls of business than to try and climb out of the debt pit later. Simply maintaining the status quo could be killing your business. Standing still in business simply does not exist. You must be either moving forward or moving backward ... and backward is never the best direction! n
NO. 5: Spend more time working on, rather than in, your business. Start by blocking out four continuous hours per week in which to review your business performance. Use this time to find innovative ways to attract more clients, keep existing clients, develop profitable promotions, review services, undertake marketing activities and much more. Spend part of this time brainstorming ideas with your team about ways to increase sales and reduce expenses. The greater the time invested the better the results you can expect. NO. 6: Create new and innovative services for your salon. Perform a client survey, research your local competitors, ask your team what the clients are requesting and then take action. Do not lose your clients to your competitors because you are not staying up to date. Once you have these new services in place, make sure you let your clients know that they are available. Always look for ways to upgrade both your business and the professional development of your team. The only thing worse than a trained team member leaving you is an untrained one who stays.
rundown equipment, inferior products or outdated procedures. NO. 8: Promote the services that make you money. There are sure to be some obvious larger profit-making services, but until you have calculated the cost to provide each service, you really do not have a clue about which ones they are. Suppliers will often offer an estimate of how much a service should be costing you to deliver, but employees are notorious for using double the product quantity recommended and flushing the leftovers down the drain. This will affect your costs and therefore your profits. When calculating your service costs, take into account the true cost of products used, consumables and labor to reach your final figure. Armed with this information, you will know which services are actually generating good profits. These are the services to promote in your business. For those services that are not making you enough profit, it might be time to consider either replacing them or increasing their price.
photo: Zadorozhnyi Viktor/Shutterstock.com
Pam Stellema is the principal coach and founder of SalonSavy, where she provides specialized industrybased coaching to clients through telephone conversations. Stellema has previously owned and operated several highly successful salons, and specializes in maximizing salon productivity and profits. She can be contacted via telephone at 011 617 55296467.
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business
without burning a hole in your budget
heat up your FALL MENU
WE LOVE TO KEEP OUR MENUS FRESH AND offer seasonal treatments in the spa world, but we need to do this in a way that drives revenue without adding expenses. We also want to showcase our creativity. Also keep in mind that seasonal changes affect clients skin, and menu updates need to address these changes.
Seasonal menu updates

Savvy spas use their seasonal menu updates to test new product lines or techniques to see if they get enough attention to justify adding them to the menu. As with all aspects of spa operations, spa menus need to be simple, easy for the front desk to recommend, and most importantly for todays busy spa clientsthey need to be customizable. Most clients no longer want the cookie-cutter facial for dry, normal or oily skin. Since our society has become so accustomed to customized services and products, business owners have to be creative in the spa as well. This fall, add one face and one body treatment, and make sure they boost retail sale opportunities and have employees take a solid training program before introducing them. At Great Face & Body in Albuquerque, NM, we have added the Cornucopia Facial and Cornucopia Body Wrap. The cornucopia or horn of plentyis a symbol of abundance and nourishment, commonly depicted by an image of a large horn-shaped container overflowing with produce, flowers, nuts, or other edibles. For the Cornucopia Facial, clients pick from three fruit blends and four essential oil serums to mix their own treatment mask. This service also includes a refreshing foot massage. The Cornucopia Body Wrap is designed for dry, undernourished skin that needs tone. The spas master herbalist lets clients choose from three unique powders that smooth and soften skin. The full-body wrap infuses the skin with vital essential oils custom-selected to restore moisture and elasticity, while firming and toning spongy, dehydrated skin. The treatment also includes a scalp and foot massage.
BY KEITH WEST-HARRISON
top to bottom: Lukiyanova Natalia/Shutterstock.com; Subbotina Anna/Shutterstock.com;
business
LOOKING FOR A QUICKIE?

Looking to add products to your shelves and create new services? Here are some tips to help you get started: Offer a full basic regimen in two primary lines. Redundancy is necessary due to clients product sensitivities. If a client cannot use anything from Line A, they may still find comparable items in Line B. Some variety gets clients interested and keeps your staff involved. This does not mean, however, that you should carry many different lines. Too many product lines make shelves look cluttered and confusing. Another way to keep staff interested in your products is to provide refresher courses on your existing product lines, as well as education on new ones. Contests also keep things fresh. However, note that boredom is not a good reason to change product lines. A product must be both profitable and effective before you buy it for your inventory. Begin with profitability, since so few product lines are profitable when sold in
the spa environment with commission. Once you have established which lines are profitable, you can begin paring the selection down to the ones that deliver the best results. Branded product typically does not offer the opportunity to make more than a 50 percent GPM (gross profit margin). This is not adequate for profitability in most spas. One way some spas protect profits is to provide higher commissions on more profitable products, and use lower commissions on branded products. Try to extract a 60 percent GPM from branded product, but be careful if you mark up over the manufacturers suggested retail, since consumers can compare prices on branded lines. They may believe you are price gouging if you do this. Be careful about managing inventory growth, as new products are introduced to you or as you want to add new SKUs from existing lines. Each addition to the inventory must be justified as a sound investment and necessary addition to your retail mix. n
After a simple intake form (or pop quiz, as co-owner Andr West-Harrison refers to it), the therapist does a simple dosha analysis of the client. Then client and therapist visit the
and gives the therapists time to discuss ingredients and give tips on how the client can improve their appearance. Compare it to the fun people have in the mall at Build-A-Bear stores.
You can follow any process you normally would for the body wrap, just switch out your typical seaweed or mud for the custom botanical concoction.
spas Botanical Bounty Bar to select the exact ingredients for the treatment mask. Great Face & Body uses raw ingredients from its skin care manufacturing area on the first floor of the building to stock the bar. With the therapists guidance, the client selects from a gel (for oily and combination skin types) or cream (for dry, mature or sensitive skin types) base for the application, which is determined by skin type. Then the client also selects from three freezedried fruit powders and four essential oil blends. Since this process is unique and very handson, it adds some excitement to the treatment
Training for success

One of the biggest issues to consider when adding new services or seasonal specials is making sure that the entire staff knows the procedure to follow. For example, replace the custom mask in lieu of the mask step for your signature facial. You can follow any process you normally would for the body wrap, just switch out your typical seaweed or mud for the custom botanical concoction. Here is a simplified, non-product oriented service process to use with your current assortment of products: continues
business|heat up your fall menu
Facial (50 minutes) 1. Cleanse 2. Tone 3. Exfoliate 4. Mask (made with our custom blend) 5. Face massage 6. Serum 7. Eye treatment 8. Moisturize Body wrap (45 minutes) 1. Dry brush the client. 2. Apply body treatment to client.
3. Wrap in plastic and cover with warm blanket. 4. Massage feet and scalp. 5. Unwrap the client. Remove product with hot towels. 6. Moisturize with a firming body lotion.
Making the right additions to your spa menu leads to great media buzz and a huge increase in client satisfaction.
Sales and rebooking

After concluding the treatment, ask the client how they feel. This is a good time to explain what you would like to do when you see them again to further improve their skin or body condition. Have products and written recommendations ready for a brief introduction, and make sure you provide adequate information about the recommended products. Introduce your client to their next therapist or an available concierge for checkout. Advise your client as to when their next appointment should be set for and ask the concierge to schedule it. Tell your client how much you enjoyed working with them and that you are looking forward to their next visit. Leave your written instructions on the product recommendations with the concierge to explain to your client in further detail.Shake your clients hand again, thank them and ask them to please come back to the spa soon. Making the right additions to your spa menu leads to great media buzz and a huge increase in client satisfaction. Both clients and staff love trying new things ... just make sure you introduce them the right way! n
K e i t h We s t Harrison is the Master Retail Magician. He teaches spa owners and therapists how to be successful and satisfied in their careers. Known for his motivational and entertaining presentations, West-Harrison teaches his client first sales and customer service methods that help spas increase retail sales by 300 percent!
by Ann Brown
business|
avoiding employee termination
... and what to do when you cant

ONE OF THE MOST DIFFICULT TASKS a boss can face is letting an employee go. Whatever the reason behind the decision, breaking the news to an employee is challenging. No one wants to have to fire a staff member, so the first thing to remember about terminations is to minimize them by setting your staff up to succeed, not fail. have a two-way discussion with the staff member about their performance and your expectations of them on the job. Then do it again in another two weeks. The first month of employment is critical to get new staff on board. Couple those two-week meetings with mentorship from other leading staff at your spa. It is imperative
Making smart hiring decisions involves outlining your mission, vision, standards and goals before you interview, looking for new staff members who will best fit into your teams framework, and hire accordingly.
endure moments of silencegive the staff member time to process, comment and confide their challenges. Listen to find out where the staff members heart lies; do they believe your spa is the right spot for them, and are they truly trying to make this relationship work?
Document and record

If you find out that, despite your best efforts, you have a staff member who continues to struggle to fit in on your team or perform below your spas expectations and standards, documentation becomes very important. Make notes regarding every communication you have with that associate regarding their performance, including the date, and place it in their personnel file. While I do not recommend rushing to terminate an employee, I do feel that after one and as much as two occurrences in a short period of time (within 30 to 60 days) it is best to try and part ways and allow them to find something more in line with their own mission, vision, values etc. It is never easy to let a staff member go, but you do not want to upset your team, allow the guest/client to question your repucontinues
Making smart hiring decisions involves outlining your mission, vision, standards and goals before you interview, looking for new staff members who will best fit into your teams framework, and hire accordingly. You set your new employees up to succeed when you clearly communicate your companys culture. Yet despite your best efforts, you will sometimes find that a new associate is struggling to fit in at your spa.
Critical times
photo: StockLite/Shutterstock.com
Do not wait for the struggle to get worse and negatively impact your spas business. Support all new staff by scheduling one-on-one meetings with all new hires two weeks after their employment start date. At the two-week meeting,
that a part of your team, such as the lead esthetician or operations manager) becomes a role model to encourage the new staff, offer support and help them make the right choices. Keep this meeting and mentorship strategy in mind when dealing with established personnel as well. When a long-time staffer begins to lag in performance, set up a meeting to discuss issues, reiterate expectations and identify any problems that need to be tackled. Ask the appropriate lead staff member to assist in monitoring and encouraging the staff who needs help as well. The spa staff is a team, so guide with a team mentality of support. With all meetings, remember to listen as much as you talk. Be prepared to
business
tation or to lower the guests or associates expectations of you and your business, so do not prolong what you see as inevitable. Wait a minimum of four weeks between the time you discuss performance issues with an employee and termination to allow adequate time for your staff member to try to make corrections and improvements.
2. Bring back up when you can. Ask another member of your management team or HR department to sit in on the
let a spa member go, take a look at your spas employment atmosphere. Take action to dispel rumors that may have risen
With all meetings, remember to listen as much as you talk. Be prepared to endure moments of silencegive the staff member time to process, comment and confide their challenges.
meeting and serve as witness in case a legal debate arises at a later date. 3. Limit your explanations and do not apologize. Give honest answers, but do not debate. 4. Try to facilitate a quick and graceful exit. Explain the procedure: any options regarding insurance and unemployment, details regarding final paycheck and how long the staff member has to clear out their belongings and be on their way. 5. Be compassionate, but do not waver or sugarcoat the reason for the meeting. Stick to the facts, stay focused and be honest. in light of the termination, and do not let the situation negatively affect the rest of your staff. Uphold your company vision and keep encouraging your team to work toward a strong, successful future and common goals. n
Letting them go
As you move toward letting an employee go, remember that you must have a legitimate business reason for termination, and be prepared to state and prove your case if a legal challenge arises. Federal law prohibits discrimination on the basis of age, race, gender, disability or religion. The need for a termination may arise based upon performance issues, operational restructuring or lay-offs due to economic downturnall legitimate reasons. Your documentation should reflect and support your reason for termination. When you sit down with an employee to break the bad news, it should not be a surprise. Your previous meetings with the staff member should have prepared them if performance has been an issue. Here are a few best practices for your final meeting with an employee: 1. Plan a door-shut conversation in a private conference room or office. Give the employee some privacy.
Focus on compatibility
Your goal is to find and retain employees who are the best fit for your spa. Likewise, it is in the employees best interest to find the best fit for themselves, a mutually beneficial relationship. Present your position from this angle. After you have
photo: Monkey Business Images/Shutterstock.com
Ann Brown is a licensed esthetician, massage therapist, nail technician and cosmetologist. She is currently the director of Spa Shiki, and serves on the board of directors for the International Spa Association, where she was previously a member of the education committee. Brown was also a founding member of the American Spa Therapy Education and Certification Council.
business
background photo: wavebreakmedia ltd/Shutterstock.com; treatment photos courtesy of Bio-Therapeutic
LAYERING TECHNOLOGY
MOST OF MY LIFE I HAVE BEEN INTRIGUED, if not obsessed, with fitness. As it is one of my lifelong goals to live as healthy as possible, I find myself in the gym five to six days a week. I split up my routines each day for different parts of the body, and combine aerobic and anaerobic exercise. Throughout an average week, I perform upwards of 60 completely separate exercises that incorporate an equal number of different machines or tools, and it does not stop there. Each week as I network with others in the gymincluding personal trainersI discover more techniques, machines and tools to continue to refine my fitness goals and objectives. The point being is that the human body is complex, and as such, it requires multiple disciplines and layers of routines to continue to refine itself to the ultimate level of fitness. Skin care is very similar to this concept, in that it takes multiple technologies, with independent disciplines, layered together, to create the perfect skin.
BY DAVID SUZUKI
Layering strategy
Once we understand the objective, we can create a technology-layering strategy using multiple science disciplines to expedite our results. To begin this process it is necessary to choose one primary technology. For example, if the client is more than 60 years old and has general concerns of muscle atrophy, fine lines and wrinkles, I would choose microcurrent as my primary technology, incorporate microdermabrasion as my secondary technology, and oxygen infusion as my tertiary technology. Sequentially, I would perform microdermabrasion first to create the perfect palette to work from, as well as begin the process of refining the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This will require about six minutes of machine time. Next I would incorporate oxygen infusion technology using an oxydome type of application for seven minutes. Oxydome type of applications cover the entire face with purified oxygen, creating the ultimate oxygenated environment. This helps maximize cellular respiration, which in turn creates the perfect environment for ATP (adenosine tri phosphate/cellular energy) synthesis. Finally, I would apply microcurrent facial sculpting movements and skin work, which requires approximately 20 to 30 minutes of machine time. Microcurrent, when used with specific frequencies, has been proven to increase ATP levels by as much as 500 percent, which leads to an incredible sculpting of the facial muscles, as well as expedites collagen and elastin synthesis that greatly improves skin texture and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
UNIQUE SOLUTIONS FOR AGING SKIN
Defining success
If you do not define success, how do you know what you are trying to achieve? In my opinion, this critical subject is one of the most overlooked talking points in most consultations. Yes, we need to discuss the clients overall health, profile and contraindications. However, the most important discussion is about them. Why are they here, and what is their definition of success? This conversation should be much more than a one-level question and answer; you need to know specifics. What has changed recently, what are the highest priority concerns, when did they feel that their skin was at its best, and do they have a picture of her/himself at that age? Obviously we cannot perform miracles, however, we can and need to understand what their definition of success looks like and work from there.
Switch it up
Once the initial strategy is created, including the frequency in which the client is instructed to come in for services, continue to contour and evolve the strategy more specifically to meet your clients objectives. Remember that this is continues
business|layering technology
the frequencies and progressively moves them forward as the series of services advances. This means that with every service, clients are receiving new and more progressive frequencies, maximizing a positive cellular reaction. After a series of microcurrent, it would be prudent to start the second series with LED as the technology leader, continue to use microdermabrasion, then use oxygen with a wand-type applicator to spray key products onto the skin, and then use jet-type applicators to help encourage the products to penetrate further with the force of pressurized and purified oxygen. As you always want to maintain, I suggest slipping in microcurrent at least once every four to six weeks.
Having an array of technology at your fingertips is also very useful from a marketing standpoint, as it provides a near endless array of services that can be strategically placed on your menu.
Benefits of layering
The layering concept allows for a more assertive and comprehensive service, as not all skin reacts the same to technology. By utilizing multiple scientific disciplines together, we can significantly improve the end result and reduce the amount of time required to achieve this result. Having an array of technology at your fingertips is also very useful from a marketing standpoint, as it provides a near endless array of services that can be strategically placed on your menu. In addition, it provides your business the opportunity to strike interest with a broader array of clientele. Most of todays saavy consumers usually have a favorite technology that they have recently read about. Regardless of which way you slice it, owning one layer or multiple layers of technology is good business. Mixing large and small technology is also a creative way to integrate layering concepts. Possessing the intimate knowledge of how to use each technology individually, and in layered form, is equally important; hence the reason why you must choose a supplier that ranks technology education at the top of its priority list, right next to quality manufacturing. My fitness objectives and goals are not so different today than they were 30 years ago. What is different is the evolution of fitness tools and technology available that make my journey more effective, expeditious and just as importantly, exciting! n
a work in progress, and we must react and progress as we observe the skin changing. If your client is coming in twice weekly, there are limitations with microdermabrasion. With that in mind, for visits between microdermabrasion services, use ultrasonic exfoliation with a flat, metal peeling probe for a significantly gentler exfoliation method. Add in a splash service of LED from time to time to introduce this technology. What is consistent about skin is its inconsistency; no two individuals are the same. Each client must have his or her own specific professional prescription, which in many cases may include as many as five technologies used in harmony. Although the client is the original architect of defining success, you are the one who will eventually lead them to success and keep them there!
Long-term strategy
The second most overlooked conversation with most clients is about long-term strategy. It is true that we do not have a crystal ball, and thus cannot predict exactly what will be happening with their skin in 4, 6 or 12 months. However, we do know enough to give them a very good educated guess. It is imperative to create a long-term layering strategy that involves services for at least a year down the road. Taking this into consideration, it is not necessary to use every technology in your arsenal immediately. Point being is that a long-term plan will help you weave your technology in and out of their personal strategy to keep it interesting for them, while the results continue to progress. As with a fitness routine, your body quickly adapts to the exercises and machines that you commonly use. It is imperative to change your routine frequently. The skin and muscles of your face are no different, in that they very quickly get used to the routine. Because of this, progressive manufacturers of microcurrent and LED have a technology known as sequencing, which constantly changes
treatment photo courtesy of Bio-Therapeutic
David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active, licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory issues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. E-mail him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit www.bio-therapeutic.com.
spa|news biz|news
PERFECT PARTNERSHIP
commerce, trade, industry and people body, equipment and supply products
Eurisko Design is pleased to announce that it has formed a distributor relationship with Neill Corporation, parent company of etopa, a design consulting business for spa and salon owners. Our commitment to the customer is to seek unique and cutting edge solutions that will enhance and maximize the potential of their business, says Eurisko president Leon Alexander. We know that etopa shares this same commitment. www.euriskodesign.com
NOTEWORTHY NOD
PCA Skin is proud to be recognized with a Most Admired Company Award from AZ Business Magazine for the second year in a row. Winners of this distinction are selected through the votes of industry-wide business leaders. The award recognizes companies for ethical practices, employee satisfaction and exceptional customer service. www.pcaskin.com www.azbigmedia.com
OVERSEAS EXPANSION
Multiple product lines from Bio Jouvance were recently launched in numerous presitigious spas and salons in Athens, Greece. Bio Jouvance founder and CEO Sonia Boghosian and distributor Georgina Karella were the key players in establishing these new partnerships, says the company. The product lines adopted by the new spas include Paris Cleopatras 24K Gold, Exfoliate Diamond and the EMA clinical line. www.biojouvance.com
JOINING THE JOURNEY
An international trade group dedicated to the development and promotion of wellness tourism has just been launched. Wellness Tourism Worldwide (WTW) was founded by Camille Hoheb (at left) and Laszio Puczko, who both recognized the absence of a trade group focused solely on the growing wellness tourism/well-being travel industry. WTW is based on quality of life indicators and domains of wellness and integrates all facets of health, wellness, leisure, tourism and sustainability. Wellness Tourism Worldwide represents a rather unique value proposition by providing a platform for three major stakeholders impacting the relationship of well-being and travel, says Ms. Hoheb. Those stakeholders include researchers, regulatory bodies and business representatives. www.wellnesstourismworldwide.com
MORE NEWS
business|news
WATER THERAPY
The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, New York has introduced oxygenintensified healing waters in its mens and womens vitality pools. The spa is the first in the world to adopt Oxygen Pur Spas proprietary infusion technology. For decades, medical professionals have described oxygens healing benefits, and it is one of the fastest growing anti-aging treatments in the beauty industry, according to the report. Assisant spa director Nicole Yih explains, By combining the therapeutic powers of water and oxygen, we can now offer guests a one-of-a-kind wellness experience that no other spa currently has. www.mandarinoriental.com/newyork
CROSSING CONTINENTS
Bio-Therapeutic recently launched btGEAR in the South African market. The company provided onsite classes and an educational webinar series to introduce the line. www.bio-therapeutic.com
MAJOR MILESTONE
American International Industries (AII) is proud to celebrate their 40th anniversary this year. Headquartered in Los Angeles, CA, AII currently employs more than 800 people in a 500,000 square foot facility. The company does sales in 180 countries, and manufactures 61 million beauty products each year. Gloria Rodriguez, the companys very first employee, still works at AII, now serving as leader of the Safety Team. www.aiibeauty.com
Please visit us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa in Philadelphia at booth 608
green spa green corner

by Hannelore Leavy and Judith Stanton
ACCORDING TO GREEN CONSERvationists, water will be more valuable than gold in the generations to come. We can already attest to this, as we see parts of our world being devastated by drought. Living things cannot survive without water, so it is important that we educate ourselves on how to preserve it, as well as how to make sure that the water we drink is of the purest nature. Here are some findings from various independent studies, followed by a comprehensive comparison of the different water solutions available to us today: Drinking properly filtered water can help maintain and improve ones health. Harmful microbes, a significant source of gastrointestinal illness, are present in treated water. Treatment plants add chlorine to the treated water to kill microbes. Chlorine itself is a pollutant, and one of the most harmful chemicals found in our water. Agricultural chemicals that leak into the ground are also present in treated water.
pure, clean water
1. Tap water
Microbial contamination is one of the problems with tap water. Another is lead corrosion, which can result in delayed physical and mental development, along with deficits in attention span and learning abilities. Plumbing materials getting into the tap water contributes to lead corrosion, and occurs because of old or poorly maintained buildings.
the sun, hot areas, etc. During this time, Bisphenol A (BPA) chemicals seep into the water from the bottles. BPA is a hormone-disrupting chemical that has been associated with reproductive abnormalities, obesity and insulin resistance. A study commissioned by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) pointed out the negative environmental impact of the bottled water phenomenonevery year, 1.5 million tons of plastic are used in bottled water manufacturing. Millions of these bottles end up in our alreadycrowded landfills, and toxic chemicals spew into the environment during the bottle manufacturing and disposal.
to the NSF testing. The (NSF)National Science Foundation is a United States government agency that supports fundamental research and education in all the non-medical fields of science and engineering. Among them are chlorine, metal, asbestos and cyanide. There is also a tremendous cost savings when using the proper water filtration systems. Based on a typical household consumption of water for drinking and cooking over the span of 5 years, $31,250 is spent on bottled water, compared to the mere $1,679 spent on replacement filters and the cost of tap water. Spas and consumers are consistently becoming greener. The most costly and wasteful use of resources is in the consumption of nonrenewable energy, including excessive water use. In many cases, water conservation can be a matter of purchasing and using the proper systems and tools. Be sure to replace expensive bottled water purchases with filtered water. n Hannelore Leavy, president of spa and wellness consultancy HRLeavy LLC, is the founder and former executive director of the Day Spa Association and the International Medical Spa Association. Contact her at HRLeavyLLC@aol.com. Judith Stanton is the founder and CEO of Stanton Healthcare Group (SHG) and Stanton Spas LLC. SHG partners with medical centers, hospitals, and universities to create physician manpower development programs and physician succession strategies, as well as recruit top medical administrators. Stanton is a valued source of authority, frequent speaker and sought-after consultant in the spa and health care industries.
3. Filtered water
In todays environment this is recommended as the No. 1 solution for health reasons. It is the process for transforming standard drinking water (tap water) into living water. The system combines a mesh pre-filter, advanced carbon filtration, pi-water technology, far-infrared energy technology, and magnetic energy technology. Approximately 90 percent of contaminants are removed in the process, according
photo: Vitaly Raduntsev/Shutterstock.com
2. Bottled water
Do you really know where bottled water comes from? We do not know how long bottles are sitting around warehouses, in
FREDERICTON, NEW BRUNSWICK, CANADA
SABAI WELLNESS CENTER
green spa
SABAI WELLNESS CENTER, LOCATED IN THE heart of downtown Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada, is a healing garden paradise centered on living plants, clean running water and fresh air. Owner Cassandra Rafuse was inspired to create the feeling of being in a southern Thailand temple garden in the early afternoon, and recently brought her vision to life in a converted Victorian townhouse originally built in the 1800s.
Striving for perfection

If Cassandra Rafuses name sounds familiar to you, it should. Rafuse has mentored spa professionals RAFUSE from all over the world through SpaBizBoard, and has become a soughtafter writer for industry publications, contributing articles on air-purifying plants, and eco-friendly living. She has also been featured in Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spas Green Spa of the Month, which catalyzed her decision to open a unique spa that features therapies from around the globe.
Healing journey
Rafuse feels she was destined to open an ecofriendly spa dedicated to alleviating physical, spiritual and emotional woes. Sick most of her childhood and drawn toward healing remedies, she began her journey with herbs at age 13. Rafuse excelled in her studies and was awarded numerous substantial scholarships to the university of her choice. But her mother was soon diagnosed with a rare form of inflammatory breast cancer and given a remaining life expectancy of less than a year. Knowing what side effects the conventional treatments would bring, Rafuse left the university and pursued a degree as a master herbalist. Driven to learn as much as she could about restoring homeostasis to the body, Rafuse studied and mastered a variety of healing arts including aromatherapy, Ayurveda, reflexology, crystal healing, reiki, holistic beauty therapy, Tibetan medicine, Indonesian Jamu, Thai Ayurveda, Japanese Kapoh, Chinese medicine and traditional healing methods used in the Philippines and Malaysia. Rafuse worked closely with her mothers oncologist, adding alternative healing methods that complemented the conventional treatments her mother was undergoing. She was inspired to begin training in cosmetic chemistry when the radiation treatments began. Rafuse formulated products to minimize the effects of radiation, chemotherapy and medicines. Despite receiving more than 100 radiation treatments, her mothers skin never burned or peeled, much to the amazement of her radiation therapist. This eventually led Rafuse to create her own skin care line. Her mother lived six-and-a-half years beyond the original prediction she had been given. Defying an additional form of cancer, she continued to lead an active lifestyle between treatments, in large part because of her daughters efforts.
Rafuse genuinely cares about her patrons. I want my clients to learn how to take care of themselves better, she explains. I dont look at the skin as a canvassome sort of covering that can take a fair amount of abuse.
Rafuse strives for perfection. I want everyone that comes to have an experience that leaves them feeling as though they have been to a magical place, where everything is arranged to nourish their mind, body and spirit. These details are evident at the Sabai Wellness Center. All equipment here, including the Thai herbal steam tent, Ayurvedic copper bowls, Thai Tok Sen (tamarind wood hammer and peg for tapping pressure [Sen] points), copper Shirodhara vessel, bamboo treatment bowls, trays, mortars and pestles were made in their respective countries by local craftspeople using sustainable materials. Rafuse genuinely cares about her patrons. I want my clients to learn how to take care of themselves better, she explains. I dont look at the skin as a canvassome sort of covering that can take a fair amount of abuse. That is the impression we often get as we slather on product after product, cosmetic after cosmetic. Though the outer layer of the skin is an effective barrier, it is still our largest organ, second only to the liver. The skin can take on some of the functions of the liverwhich is the bodys main filtration continues
BY GENA FLORES
green spa|sabai wellness center

This handmade, organic cotton Thai herbal steam tent from Thailand is more private than communal saunas. A lower, safer temperature is used in the tent. It was once used for the traditional ufai treatment Thai women would have after giving birth.
deviceif the liver is overworked due to ill health, poor nutrition or some other disorder. Rafuse says that those who come in for beauty treatments receive an in-depth consultation with her, and that she makes the skin care products she uses for each client from scratch, fresh, for each appointment. She also offers clients the option of making custom products for their use at home, with a small onetime fee for the formulation process. Rafuse also discusses nutritionwhat you eat is reflected strongly in your overall wellbeing. Small changes in your diet can make big changes in how you feel ... and how you feel about yourself is the foundation of being beautiful. As a therapist, Rafuse believes it is important that she be a conduit for any and all healing energies that exist in the universe. She explains her philosophy: Meditation, mantra and healing rituals help bring focus to the task at hand, so that I can create an atmosphere of security, comfort and tranquility. I must exhibit compassion, teach compassion, be compassion. It is important for me to have clear, open communication with the client, and I believe that having a highly developed sense of intuition is a key part of holistic healing. Being given permission to look inside someone with the power I have in my hands is help-
ful in giving me an overall look at a clients wellness, but it is imperative to know how to properly restore homeostasisbalanceto the body. It must be done gently, over time, that is the true nature of almost all traditional healing systems; there is no quick fix, fast cure. Much of todays medicine is based on treating and alleviating the symptoms of deeper problems, but putting a bandage on a gunshot wound isnt going to do much good in long run.
A bit of paradise
Sabai Wellness Center is only 225 square feet, but it is powerful and draws clients in the moment they arrive. Eyes will instantly be drawn to the sunlight at the opposite end of the room, as ears soak in the sound of water trickling in the bamboo sprout fountain. The air is fresh and clean, stimulated by more than 20 air-purifying plants. Further exploration leads to the discovery of two authentic Balinese theater masks on either side of a traditional medicine Buddha. Once clients have finished their consultation and are lying on the treatment table, they can see the original plaster from the 1800s that is painted a brilliant white, surrounded by vivid blue walls featuring a red and gold picture of Buddha. Clients can breathe in peace, relax and let Rafuse expertly transport them to that coveted Thai garden. Clients can choose among treatments such as a traditional Ayurvedic facial, Thai herbal compress facial, revitalizing aromatherapy body oil wrap, Thai sugar and spice body polish or an electro-acupuncture non-surgical facelift. Wellness treatments include the Thai herbal body steam, selenite crystal massage, bamboo massage, reiki and Thai reflexology with Tok Sen. When asked about future plans, Rafuse says: As part of my commitment to increasing awareness of traditional healing systems and their usefulness in todays society, I will be offering a free wellness clinic once a week starting early winter. People will be able to come in and have a free holistic consultation, and get recommendations for changes they can discuss with their primary care practitioner to bring complementary therapies into their lives, just like I did with my mother. If I can help just one person, I have done my job, and I have done it well. It is all about what we give of ourselves. n Gena Flores is a licensed esthetician, instructor and contributing author to Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa magazine. She is passionate about mentoring other spa professionals, and volunteers her time as the director of the National Aesthetic Spa Network for the Midwest.
photos courtesy of Sabai Wellness Center
by Lake Louise
green spa|
top 10 beauty foods of fall
OUR SKIN SERVES AS A BAROMETER for what is going on internally, whether good or bad. One of the ways our bodies excretes toxins is through the skin, therefore if the majority of our diet consists of unhealthy foods and snacks, our bodies will begin to show signs of bloating, rashes, breakouts, constipation and more.
autumn delights
route to their destination. Not only does this affect the fresh taste and aroma of our fruits and vegetables, it causes vitamin degradation and nutrient loss. Shipping fruits and vegetables over long distances creates a huge carbon footprint on our planet: increased greenhouse gas emissions,
Kale contains high amounts of vitamin C, which enables other antioxidants to work effectively, and protects and repairs the skin, bones, brain and heart.
Modern technology and the global distribution of food allow fruits and vegetables to be made available in supermarkets year round. Because of this, we have become increasingly disconnected from the practice and importance of eating with the seasons. Eating seasonally provides our bodies with the maximum amount of nutrients and is supportive of our health, as well as the health of the planet. Buying fruits and vegetables that are not in season means: They have arrived at our local supermarkets after traveling long distances, if not from the other side of the world. They are picked before they are ripe to ensure that they do not spoil en
C and contain quercetin, an antioxidant which has been shown to inhibit the reproduction of cancer cells. Always eat and use apples with their skins, since that is where you will find most of the nutrients and flavor. Fresh apple slices make a great tasty snack with a dollop of almond butter for an added protein boost.
Dates
These jewel-sized treasures do not get the credit they deserve considering the nutritional value they provide. Although high in calories, dates are a good source of B vitamins, potassium, magnesium and iron. Potassium is essential for the growth and maintenance of our bodies. Potassium also helps with the growth of new cells. When your body is able to produce new cells, your skin will become healthier. Magnesium assists in the absorption of calcium, vitamin C and potassium. Iron is essential to red blood cell production, and red blood cells carry all the nutrients to cells throughout the body. Medjool dates are the most popular and readily available. Did you know dates have more potassium than bananas? A half cup of dates has 584 mg of potassium. They can be blended into a morning protein smoothie. continues
pollution and continued depletion of the earths limited energy resources. As our favorite summer fruits begin to disappear from our local farmers markets, there will be a new crop of seasonal fruits and vegetables to take their place. These are equally rich in vitamins and antioxidants, which our body needs. Here are the top 10 nutrient-rich beauty foods of autumn.
Apples
This amazing fruit is at peak season from August through Novemberand yes, an apple a day can keep the doctor away. Apples are an excellent source of both soluble and insoluble fiber, which helps sweep out and detoxify the digestive tract. Apples are also high in vitamin
photo: Raffalo/Shutterstock.com
green spa|autumn delights Carrots

The bright orange color of carrots signifies their high beta- and alpha-carotene levels. This gives them the ability to rejuvenate your skin and other organs. While carrots can be eaten raw, they do benefit from slight cooking, which helps them release their antioxidant carotenoids. A raw carrot will yield 3 percent beta-carotene, which can increase to 39 percent if steamed, juiced or cooked in oil. The body converts beta-carotene into vitamin A, which is needed for healthy eyesight and aids in detoxification. Carrots are also high in vitamin A that does not need converting, so they do their utmost to keep us youthful. If you make your own carrot juice, try adding flaxseed oil. This will help release the beta-carotene, as it is a fat-soluble nutrient. ture aging. As little as one clove a day is effective at lowering blood pressure and regulating cholesterol levels, as well as supporting the skin-nourishing effects of good circulation (just try not to breathe on anyone).
Butternut squash
Nutritionally speaking, the butternut squash has more vitamin A than pumpkin. Vitamin A is a powerful antioxidant required by the body to maintain the integrity of the skin and mucus membranes. Its additional contributions include potassium, folic acid and lutein, a carotenoid that provides nutritional support for the eyes and skin. A butternut squash soup is an excellent way to reap the nutritional benefits from this autumn beauty.
Broccoli
A close relative of cabbage and cauliflower, broccoli contains significant amounts of vitamin C, sulfur and certain amino acids, which make it a very good detoxifier. It helps remove free radicals and toxins like uric acid from the body, thereby purifying the blood and helping prevent skin-related issues such as rashes, eczema and hardening of skin. Enjoy it steamed with olive oil drizzled on top and a pinch of Himalayan sea salt.
Figs
Unlike other fruit, fresh figs contain protein and are also rich in calcium and iron. Figs contain phenols, which can help the body fight premature aging and disease. Of all the common fruits, figs are the highest in overall mineral content and are an excellent source of both soluble and insoluble fiber. They can be eaten alone or with salads.
Cauliflower
Cauliflower contains potent cleansing and rejuvenating sulfur compounds that work as antioxidants to help repair areas of the body that have been damaged. In addition, these compounds appear to lower estrogen, thereby helping to prevent cancers of the breast and prostate as well as regulating female hormones, keeping women youthful post menopause. This excellent source of vitamin B6 helps access the energy from food we eat for skin and bone renewal. Its vitamin C and B5 content help the liver remove damaging aging toxins as well as support the adrenal glands, which in turn helps us to cope with stress, an important factor in staying young.
Sweet potatoes
Sweet potatoes contain the orange nutrients alpha- and beta-carotene and lutein, powerful anti-aging particles that protect you against skin damage from sunlight. These fat-soluble carotenoids are needed to protect fatty areas in the skin, heart, eyes, brain and liver. In addition, they are an outstanding source of vitamins A, B6 and C; copper; iron; manganese; potassium; and dietary fiber. The most nutritious way to prepare sweet potatoes is to roast or bake them. Sweet potatoes are a starchy food, so it is best to eat them with a salad or steamed vegetables.
Nutritional delights
Autumn provides a bounty of nutritional delights for the seasonal eater. As the seasons change, our skin and bodies change along with it. Consuming seasonal foods is important to ensure that the body adjusts to the changing seasons. Ultimately, it is up to us to make the commitment to eat fresh fruits and vegetables for optimal health, which keeps us in rhythm with natures cycle. Take care of your skin and it will take of you! n
Kale
This cruciferous vegetable is in the same family as cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts and offers the same protective, rejuvenating properties. The high calcium content makes it a stand-out food in keeping our bones, teeth and joints healthy. Kale contains high amounts of vitamin C, which enables other antioxidants to work effectively, and protects and repairs the skin, bones, brain and heart. I prefer juiced kale combined with apples, celery, ginger root and lemon. Steamed or sauted kale is also an excellent way to reap its nutritional benefits.
Garlic
Garlic is one of the most revered immune-system-boosting, antibacterial foods on the planet. It was traditionally used for medicinal purposes due to its many sulfur compounds, which work to remove harmful and aging toxic metals such as lead and mercury. Used regularly in cooking, it helps to keep the digestive tract clean, support the immune system and ward off infections and conditions that can lead to premaPage 108 www.LNEONLINE.com
Lake Louise received her master's degree in education from Stanford University. She is the founder and CEO of SMB Essentials, a lifestyle and wellness company whose brands include Lotus Moon, Plain Jane Beauty and DetoxRx. For more information call 888.762.2667 or visit www.smbessentials.com.
green spa|news
PRETTY PROTECTION
Zen Attitude by Dr. Jules Nabet is a de-stressing, revitalizing, restructuring and moisturizing cream. The powerful formula improves the appearance of skin while protecting it, says the company. Soya, yam and vitamins E and F work together to fight the visible signs of stress, pollutants, toxins and climate changes. www.drjulesnabetskincare.com
ecofriendly skin and spa products and therapies
SWEET SIMPLICITY
Ole Biologique skin care products are made from EcoCert certified, 100 percent organic argan, almond, evening primrose, hazelnut and rosehip oils. The pure, superior quality beauty oils effectively promote radiant, hydrated skin, says the company. The Ole Organique collection has products to meet the needs of every skin condition, as each oil has specific healing benefits. www.oliebiologique.com
SURFACE RENOVATION
Catalyst from Osmosis Skin Care is a skin restoration serum with SGRF-7. The combination of amino acids and co-factors is formulated to repair DNA damage and assist the production of proteins and antioxidants within the cells. This results in improved wound healing, lightened hyperpigmentation, a reduction in visible capillaries and stimulation of collagen and elastin production, says the company. www.osmosisskincare.com
BRANCHING OUT
Marlene Katz, one of the first pioneers of the day spa concept and holistic spa treatments, has opened Intelligent Skin Sense (ISS), a green spa in Fairfield, CT. Katz created ISS for the purpose of providing quality age fighting services and products. The spas guiding principles are integrity in all business endeavors, excellence in services and products and contributing to society at large. Katz has been an innovator in the spa industry for nearly 25 years. www.intelligentskinsense.com
MORE NEWS
green spa|news
RED RELIEF
Rosacea sufferers are sure to love the chemical free Organic Tinted Sunscreen SPF 22 for Face from Celtic Complexion Beauty Society. Founded by master esthetician Jennifer Devlin, this line consists of organic skin care for rosacea and sensitive skin. All of Celtic products are free of synthetics, fragrance and toxic chemicals, says the company. www.celticcomplexion.com
CLEAN AND CLEAR

The new Tamanu & Licorice Clarifying Face Wash from Shea Terra Organics combines Tamanu oil and licorice root to clear away inflammation, acne and blemishes while producing healthier, brighter looking skin, says the company. It is suitable for all skin types. www.sheaterraorganics.com
SMOOTH SOLUTION
Take years off your clients skin with the Purely Age-Defying Ultra Firm and Lift Cream from Jurlique. Formulated with high performance botanicals, the luxurious triple-action cream is proven to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, boost skin elasticity and redefine facial contours, says the company. www.jurlique.com
PREVENTATIVE POTION
The Green Tea Cleanser from the Mlis Aspire line combines the antiinflammatory power of green tea with gentle emollients, vitamins, hydrators, antibacterials and UV protectors into a powerful cleanser suitable for all skin types, says the company. The formulas ingredients work together to prevent and treat abnormal skin conditions, as well as protect the skin from environmental factors and free radicals that can accelerate aging. www.mlis.com
PLANT STEM CELLS
AGE MANAGEMENT PEPTIDES
- Protects the longevity of skin cells - Limits collagen degradation - Combats chronological aging
- Decreases wrinkle depth - Stimulates collagen synthesis - Increases skin thickness
SUN PROTECTION
ACNE & ROSACEA

- Reduce breakouts - Break up bacterial colonization - Increased hydration - High performance anti-inflammatory - Reduce redness & irritation - Protects and nourishes sensitive skin
(High UVA Protection) from Consumer Product Testing.
HHH Awarded 3 Stars
- All Solar Protection made with the finest cosmetic quality Zinc Oxide (15-18%)
LUC R C E P H YSI CI A N S A E ST H ETI C R E S E A R C H | 8 0 0 . 6 2 6 . 7 5 4 6 | w w w. l u c re ce . co m
October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. We at Touch Beauty will commit 10% of all profits for the month of October to programs that help women undergoing treatment.
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by Ellie Malmin
WHAT IS LURKING IN YOUR CLIENTS eyelashes? Is it Demodex folliculorum (a hideous dust mite that can lay up to 25 eggs on a single follicle)? Or does she have blepharitis, an inflammation of the eyelid caused by bacteria? Or is it simply excess sebum production?
eyelash hygiene safety
clients spend hundreds of dollars on eyelash enhancements, growth serums, over-the-counter or prescription products. But how can any product possibly look good or even be effective on dirty lashes?
Best practices
As a professional, it is vital for you to set yourself apart, act with the best interests of your clients and abide by the best practices of the industry. Recently, the Lashologist Council of America announced a set of guidelines promoting hygiene though eyelash shampooing. It is important for both yourself and your clients that you understand and practice proper eyelash hygiene and shampooing. Additionally, you will increase your credibility as a professional and earn greater revenue by offering eyelash shampooing. The benefits to your clients are many. Their eyes will feel clean and refreshedeven lighter. Their lashes will look healthier. Your lash enhancement procedure will have longer lasting results (some estimate up to 75 percent longer), whether it is eyelash extensions or perming. Tinting, false lashes, strips and semi-permanent mascara may also last longer, since the product will initially adhere properly. Growth serums will penetrate and work more effectively.
It is not uncommon to see clients spend hundreds of dollars on eyelash enhancements.
There are two types of blepharitis: anterior blepharitis, which affects the eyelid margins, and posterior blepharitis, which affects the inner eyelid and the oil-producing meibomian gland. There are many conditions that can occur in the lash line such as styes, a tender, sore red bump on the eyelid caused by an infected hair follicle. There are a multitude of reasons why it is important for estheticians to properly cleanse the lashes. With proper eyelash hygiene, we can help prevent and control some of these conditions.
Getting to the root of it

Estheticians know the value of skin care treatments. An esthetician would never think of applying a facial serum on top of makeup. But how many of our clients never remove their eye makeup at night? The eyelash cosmetics industry has grown in leaps and bounds. It seems like everyone is trying new mascaras and procedures, as manufacturers continue to roll out new and exciting products. It is not uncommon to see
The nonprofit Lashologist Council of America advises using gloves (vinyl gloves if the client is allergic to latex). Have your client remove their contact lenses. Use lint-free applicators or cotton buds to remove eye makeup with a non-oily eye makeup remover. Choose a remover without surfactants, color or fragrance. Use a solution of tear-free baby shampoo diluted with two-thirds water. With a cotton bud, gently apply the solution to the clients lashes (be sure they close their eyes). Repeat until the cotton bud is free of any makeup. Rinse eyes with eye wash solution until fresh and clean, usually two to three minutes, then repeat on the other eye. Comb the lashes and dry with a lash dryer. Finish with a conditioning eyelash serum. Add a little style with a heated eyelash curler. The average service price is usually $25 for a 15-minute procedure, and the cost in materials is as little as 50 cents. The Lashologist Council of America also recommends that you demonstrate to your clients how to perform the procedure on their own. n Ellie Malmin is the founder of Anushka Spa. She is a licensed cosmetologist and electrologist, and has co-authored training manuals and developed training programs for a variety of cosmetics manufacturers. Malmin currently serves as the executive director of the Lashologist Council of America.
Tips
Prior to starting a client profile form, a client consent form should be filled out. If it is your practice, you may want to take before and after pictures. Doing so will help your client to not only feel but also undoubtedly see the difference.
photo: pashapixel/Shutterstock.com
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FALL
LIPS, LASHES AND FABULOUS LOOKS
MAKEUP TRENDS
BY FLYNN MARIE PYYKKONEN

FALL IS HERE, AND THIS YEARS autumn makeup trends for 2011 are beautiful ones to fall for! The most popular look this season uses smoky metallic, jeweled-toned eyeshadows paired with dramatic lashes smothered in mascara. These beautiful eyes look great with smudged liner. Forget about harsh lines this fall; smoked liners and blended jeweledtoned shadows are the way to go with this seasons makeup trends. You can create a smoky eye with an eyeliner brushgently blend away the harsh eyeliner. Brows this season are bold and defined, filled in with natural-colored shadows. Foundation is soft and dewy, making skin look fresh and youthful, so make sure you apply moisturizer before starting the makeup application. Add a peachy cream blush and a highlighter to the soft, dewy looking skin. The highlighter should have a luminous finish. For final touches, add a red wine-colored matte lipstick and a matching glossy finish. Create the look in just 10 steps!
Get set for fall

Prep and prime: Prepare the clients skin and remove any makeup. Use foundation or primer to help hold eyeshadow, which should be done first to avoid any messy colors falling onto the face. Applying eyeshadow first allows you to clean up any extra pigment before adding foundation. Step 1: Use an eyeshadow in a jewel-colored shade such as purple, green or sapphire. Gone are the days of only using dark greys and black to create the smoky eye. Now we can use any of our favorite colors and still
Step 1
be stylish ... as long as they are well blended! Tip: Intensify your favorite eye colors by using them wet. Make sure your brush is not too damp by testing it on the back of your hand or a tissue. Apply the eyeshadow onto the lid, starting on the lash line, and bring it up to where the natural crease ends. Step 2: Use a lighter shade of warmtoned eyeshadow above and slightly over the darker shade to blend and create a subtle gradation of dark and lighter shades. Blend together in a windcontinues
photo: magdanphoto/Shutterstock.com
PHOTO COURTESY OF EVE PEARL
image|fall makeup trends
A nice red wine matte lipstick with a matching gloss adds the finishing touch to your makeover.
shield-like back-and-forth motion. Keep these colors near and slightly above the crease area.
Step 6
Step 3: Above the crease, apply a lighter shade or neutral color upward to the brow bone. This will smooth out the shadows and act as a cleaning step.
Step 4: With a black liquid liner, draw a thin strip across the eyelid, staying as close as you can to the lash line. Pull the liner up and out a little at the end of the eye for some extra drama. Tip: If you make a mistake/mess with the liner, just go over it with some of the darker jewel-toned eye shadowthis will add to the smoky effect. Step 5: Take a definer brush with a bit of shimmery dark, jewel-toned shadow, and apply it right under the black eyeliner to smooth it out and keep it from running. Step 6: Add one pair of faux eyelashes or even layer one pair of lashes on top of another for more intenselooking eyes. Step 7: Apply your favorite black mascara (two coats to add extra volume) and line the bottom lash line with a black kohl eye pencil. Step 8: Clean any excess makeup from underneath the eyes by removing it gently with a sponge and priming moisturizer. Now apply foundation and concealer to the under-eye area.
Step 9
Step 10
Tip: For that flawless foundation finish, wet your sponge for a smoother application and blend all makeup evenly. Step 9: Apply powder in a color that matches your clients skin tone. With a fan brush, apply a light peachy blush and luminous highlight to add lift and youthfulness to the face. No need to match the blush to your clients clothing; blush should make them look their best, regardless of what they are wearing. Tip: A fan brush can brighten and lift the face with proper application. Try not to use large/thick blush brushes, they tend to pick up too much color, causing you to spend just as much time wiping off the blush as you did putting it on. Step 10: Apply one of your favorite lip color shades for fall. A nice red wine matte lipstick with a matching gloss adds the finishing touch to your makeover. n
lipstick: Maram/Shutterstock.com
Flynn Marie Pyykkonen is a makeup artist for Eve Pearl, where she also works in public relations and advertising. Pyykkonen was educated at Make-Up Designory, where she received training in makeup artistry for brides, print, film, television and high definition.
by Noreen Young
image| face it!

LETS FACE ITAGE MANAGEMENT or anti-aging makeup, good-for-yourskin makeup, healthy beauty, mineral power, eco/organic makeup, natural beauty and meaningful beauty ... all these terms describe multi-purpose makeup at its best. Now we can give clients gorgeous and better-looking skin through makeup. Makeup does not a few. Juarez adds that grapeseed is very popular as well. It contains the antioxidant proanthocyanidin, which provides anti-inflammatory protection. It is also known to maintain healthy collagen and does wonders for the skin. It achieves this through the antioxidants ability to bond with collagen and promote healthy elasticity. her freckles or sun damage. She reads labels and wants easy beauty. She also prefers not to spend a lot of money on her skin care or makeup.
Eco-chic woman
This woman loves our planet and even travels with an eco-friendly green tote for her errands or groceries. She loves all things organic and natural. She loves to learn about all you have to offer on this trend. She celebrates all things natural, from organic eggs and milk to makeup. She also probably buys green cleaning products and has her familys behavior patterned after her own. Keep in mind that some clients will look chic and others may have a wholesome look.
Eco-chic woman: She loves all things organic and natural. She loves to learn about all you have to offer that fits this description.
just color the complexion, enhance the best features or camouflage blemishes; now it has become an important step of the skin care regimen. Our clients are in tune to what is going on. They are more perceptive than ever and read labels. They care what goes into their bodies and on their skin, and they are very proactive. Pass by a mall makeup store and it is usually packed. Pass by a salon and it may not be. Remember that success does not solely rely on which brands you carry, it is also how you present it. The key is to go to trade shows and classes, keeping informed and up to date with the everchanging trends. More ingredients that continue to create a buzz in the industry are pomegranate, soy, Chinese mushrooms, macdamia nut oil, walnut oil, botanicals, jojoba and antioxidants.
Maintaining their style

In regard to products for the face, please remember that not all clients want to look like celebrities or you. Most want or have their own style. Also bear in mind that one womans day look is another womans evening look. Simply put, I believe most clients want to look like themselves, only better. Fall is an exciting time for beauty products and various looks that reflect makeup and lifestyle personalities. Here are some of the clients you will encounter in your beauty chair.
Metro glam
This woman is usually single, a mom, a woman who works, and/or a business owner. She loves what is hot in beauty and fashion, and usually spares no expense to look great, even if she has to save to get it. She is easy to please and loves makeup.
Designer diva
She loves all things regarding beauty and fashion, but with a label. She usually dresses head-to-toe in labels. Her purse probably costs more than anything else she has on, and it may cost something close to a years supply of makeup. She may have a great paying job, or she may be a busy mom with a husband who finances the lifestyle she has grown to continues
photo: Image Source/Getty Images
Healthy trends
Kym Juarez, a cosmetic chemist, says the healthy trend in beauty ingredients is growing. The must-have ingredients added to cosmetics are: royal jelly, rose hip oil, sunflower oil, green tea, sacred lotus, vitamin C and acai berry, to name
Bare beauty
This is the woman or teen who wants to keep it simple and use as little product as possible. She may not want to cover
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love. Depending on her age, she wants everything to make her look younger or to stop the aging process. She will buy almost anything you tell her to if there is a designer label.
Celebrity crazed
She is like the designer-diva client, and loves anything used by, worn by or associated with a celebrity. She usually spares no expense to look good ... again, even if she has to save for it. She will do anything that a celebrity she likes does for beauty, like whiten and brighten her teeth. She will want to know about any fountain-of-youth skin care and makeup you have to offer.
TIMELY TRENDS
Mineral makeup continues to soar. Brush, swirl, blend, tap and buff. Not all your clients will look good in it and some may not even want it. But for those who do, there are a plethora of fabulous colors to choose from. Highly pigmented colors with longer-lasting ingredients are the it formulas for eyeshadow products. These products can also be made into eyeliners when mixed with water or an eyeliner sealer. Mix and matte shades continue to be in demand. For luscious lips, it is all about the gloss factor. Sexy lip plumpers, fillers and stains are always popular. In addition to looking and feeling amazing, they are filled with good-for-your-lips ingredients. Look for ones with a sunscreen built in, especially since skin cancer is on the rise and the lips are very vulnerable. Teach your clients how to protect their lips and offer products with SPF when possible.
Makeup junkie
Need I say more? She wants all things beauty and has a lot of fun doing it. If she has the money or a credit card, she will buy anything you have.
Plain Jane
We all have them ... she is usually one who does not want to wear any makeup or does not know what to do. Or she may wear a minimal amount of a makeup, perhaps just lipstick. These are the clients we want to help. They can be your business new BFF, as they really need to bring out their personal best. Go easy on them. They resist change and do not want to be beauty overwhelmed. They are usually wonderful women, and they need us.
Wrap up
Always remembercarry and use things that you are passionate about, but make sure you are offering your clients options. Learn more, earn more, sell more and offer your clients the best that the cosmetic world has to offer: healthier makeup and skin. Start shopping and playingand show your clients how to look ageless at any age! n Noreen Young is a makeup artist and sought-after speaker in the spa and beauty industry. She has worked with designer Diane Von Furstenberg, actor Martin Short and many sports professionals and other celebrities. Her experience includes work on Larry King Live and several television networks. Young released a makeup and skin care DVD entitled, Diamonds Arent a Girls Best Friend Makeup Is! For more information call 904.739.2560.
photo: Jennifer Westmoreland/Shutterstock.com
by Karla Hirkaler
image|
age is just a number
fall into blissful, ageless beauty

WHEN IT COMES TO AGE, WOMEN can be very sensitive to the change. Mature clients are frustrated when they witness the newest trend or hottest looks appear on an 18 to 20-year-old magazine model. However, with the right application and products, professionals can make clients look fabulous and flawless at any age. Remember, it is all about the skin; never forget to
Step by step
1. Apply a moisturizer all over the skin, using a sponge or just fingers.
Applying eye makeup first will save us time and product.
moisturize before applying makeup. Also, when choosing a brand of cosmetics, make sure to select a product line that has the following nutrients/ ingredients/benefits: Astaxanthin (a powerful antioxidant 500 times stronger than vitamin E) Omega-3 A natural, chemical-free sunscreen equivalent to SPF 20 Hydrating, protective and rejuvenating properties that improve skins texture and elasticity Anti-inflammatory properties to soothe, treat and protect against sun damage
2. Choose the right shade of foundation. When deciding on the hue, do not match it to the skin on your clients hand. That is a common mistake. Instead, opt for a dual foundation (a cream formula with two shades), because it gives you a better range of color and can be used throughout the year.
tends to fall on skin, and then we have to remove it and reapply foundation and concealer. This can be frustrating. Applying eye makeup first will save us time and product.
3. Apply eye makeup first. How many times have we applied foundation and then accidentally dropped eyeshadow onto the freshly applied base? During application, eyeshadow
After eye makeup is done, use a foundation brush to apply the lighter shade of the foundation on eyelids, then set with a pressed powder. 4. Apply a waterproof liquid liner. Try to get as close as you can to the lash line. Use a natural eyeshadow palette and apply the darker brown color over the liner to create a V-shape on the corner of the eyes. The light color continues
image|age is just a number

eyeshadow is going to be applied on the center of the lid and the bone color in the inner corner of the eye. Blend with a blender brush. 5. Apply the rest of the foundation to the face using the reverse-contouring a liner brush and brown shadow to soften it up. Apply the concealer using a concealer brush. Blend and set. 7. Apply blush using a fan brush, starting on the apples of the cheeks.
lashes. There you have it ... beautiful and flawless! n
method. Apply the darker color of the foundation on the apples of the cheeks, chin and nose, then apply the lighter color on the rest the face and blend with a damp sponge. After blending the foundation, set with a pressed powder. 6. Apply a brown-colored eye pencil under the eyes and go over it with
8. Line lips and fill them in with the clients favorite shade of lipstick.
Photos courtesy of Eve Pearl
9. Last but not least, fill in eyebrows using a shadow and eyebrow spoolie brush. Then apply mascara to the
Karla Hirkaler began her career as a makeup artist at the Four Seasons Salon & Spa in Florida, and later started doing freelance work in a variety of specialized areas of makeup. Throughout her eight years of experience in the field, Hirkaler has been trained by some of the most prestigious makeup artists in the industry. Hirkaler is now a blogger, makeup artist, head resellers representative and a member of the customer care support team at Eve Pearl.
spa|news image|news
REMAKING THE RAINBOW
Jane Iredale unveils an fresh new color collection this fall called Naturally Confident. The latest hues are seen in the two varieties of the new Eye Steppes, eyeshadows designed to flatter warm or cool complexions; the cutting-edge dualended Lip Fixation products; and the Complete In Touch Highlighter, a natural looking icy pale pink finish, the perfect finishing touch for any look. www.janeiredale.com
makeup, and and trends body, equipmenttools supply products
BEAUTY WITH BENEFITS

The Mineral Compact Foundation is one of the latest additions to Dr. Grandels ARABESQUE product range. The pressed foundation mattes like a powder and leaves a natural looking finish, says the company. It is packed with beneficial ingredients such as echinacea to moisturize, vitamin E to guard against free radicals and tiger grass for sensitive skin. www.grandel-usa.com
FRUITY FRESHNESS
Effective citrus and pineapple enzymes in the Citrus Enzyme Lip Exfoliator from minence Organics refine the lip area by removing dryness and fine vertical lip lines, says the company. Powerful fruit pulp infuses bioflavanoids and vitamins to parched lips, leaving them smooth. www.eminenceorganics.com
COMPLETE COVERAGE Perfecta Base from CARA Cosmetics is an oil-free foundation ideal for a broad range of skin conditions. The formula contains sodium PCA, sodium hyaluronate and cucumber extracts to provide extra hydration and soothe the skin while it evens the complexion and minimizes the appearance of large pores and imperfections, says the company. It is packaged in a slim, elegant bottle with a spatula built into the cap for easy application and custom blending ability. www.caracosmetics.com
MORE NEWS
image|news
FABULOUS FULLNESS
The unique Eyebrow Mousse from blinc is designed to offer a quick, long-lasting but non-permanent eyebrow application, helping to fill in sparse brows and hold them in place. The new blinc brow bar features six natural looking water-resistant colors of the brow mousse. The display can be used to promote retail sales or for add-on services. www.blincinc.com
NATURES BEST
Lady Burd introduces The Mineral Difference Kit, which contains a full assortment of mineral cosmetics to address every areaeyes, lips, cheeks and face. Items in the kit are formulated from natures ingredients, and are free of fragrances and other potential irritants, says the company. www.ladyburd.com
classified ads
DAIL BREAKING NEWS ... Y WEB-EXCLUSIVE ARTICLES TRADE SHOW INFORMATION ... AND SO MUCH MORE
products distributors services training new/used equipment employment

ONLINE Medical Aesthetics Education! Learn the basics of microdermabrasion, laser hair removal, Botox and much more! Visit http://cosmeticnurseconcepts.litmos.com/courses for more information! AIRBRUSH MEDIA MAKEUP ONE WEEK CLASS For Ads, HDTV, Film, Fashion, Weddings. Portfolio included. While spa clients decline in weak economy, high paid, exciting, Media Airbrush work remains strong. AwardMakeupSchool.com 310.364.0665 Face & Neck Contouring Method. A facial massage technique of deep muscle work. Designed to Strengthen the underlying structure by increasing the flow of blood & energy, aiding production of new skin cells & collagen. A special compound of HONEY & acupressure are applied. Particularly appropriate for Acne skin!! Classes held at The Hadsten House Inn & SPA, Solvang, Ca. ATT. Skin class kcfacialhoney@yahoo.com 805.344.3565/805.452.2496
WWW.LNEONLINE.COM
...
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ENTER
THE
STEP-BY -STEP
DRAWING!
Signature Facial
This month win a grand prize from Nelly de Vuyst valued at $285
Check out the working steps from Nelly de Vuyst and enter the drawing for a chance to win!*
EMPLOYMENT
minence Organic Skin Care is looking for their next outstanding International Trainer. Must be a licensed esthetician, have 2 years experience with minence products and willing to travel extensively. Previous training experience an asset. Visit www.eminenceorganics.com to learn more. We are a French cosmeceutical skin care company distributed through a network of 70 business partners in 64 countries around the world. We are actually looking for an exclusive business partner in the USA. For more information please visit our website at www.ericson-laboratoire.com or send an e-mail to export@ericsonlaboratoire.com.
* WINNERS WILL
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PRODUCTS
Refectocil Tint Pure Black, Blue-Black, Natural Brown, Light Brown, Deep Blue, Graphite, Chestnut, Red and Blonde Bleaching Paste. 1.877.547.5463 www.dermagraphicsinc.com
EDUCATION / TRAINING
LEARN NEW TECHNIQUES THROUGH DVDS - FREE CATALOG Aesthetic VideoSource offers award-winning, comprehensive instructional DVDs: Facials, Facial Massage, Facial Equipment Techniques, Waxing, BOTOX, Dermal Fillers, Laser Hair Removal, Spa & Body Treatments, Threading, Manicures, Pedicures, Makeup, and Massage. 800.414.2434 www.VideoShelf.com. Free sample video clips online.
MISCELLANEOUS
Feeling Left Out? Place your classified ad with Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa and get national exposure for a fraction of the cost. Its just $2 a word, with a $30 minimum. Sign up online, and preview your ad before it is published in the magazine. For more information, please contact Maria Gil at 800.471.0229; e-mail maria@LNEONLINE.com; or visit www.LNEONLINE.com.
To place an ad, please call 800.471.0229 ext. 103, e-mail maria@lneonline.com or visit www.lneonline.com.
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
WEST | CENTRAL | EAST | INTERNATIONAL
West
OCTOBER (ONGOING)
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Distance learning available. Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424.
Hydropeptide Product Training Seminar by Hydropeptide. Webinars held Mondays and Wednesdays. www.hydropeptide.com. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 3-5
Tibetan Blissful Sleep by Diamond Way Ayurveda. San Luis Obispo, CA. 866.303.3321.
OCTOBER 3-7
Wellness Consultant and Advanced Consultant Certification by The Mlis Company. Salt Lake City, UT. 800.548.0569.
OCTOBER 3-9 OCTOBER 2

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Portland, OR. 877.PCA.SKIN. Airbrushing and Creating a Portfolio by Award Studio. Burbank, CA. www.AwardMakeupSchool.com
OCTOBER 4
Microcurrent by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 3
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 9
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN.
West Central East International
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 12
Bio-Hydroderm Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 17
Bt-Cocktail Lift by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 10
Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Las Vegas, NV. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 13
Bio-Hydroderm Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 30
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 14
Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 31
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 16
Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Newport Beach, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 2
bt-GEAR With Sally Deitz by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 10-12
map: iStockphoto.com/Malcolm Romain
Tibetan Shirodhara Training by Diamond Way Ayurveda. San Luis Obispo, CA. 866.303.3321.
NOVEMBER 6
Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 11
Bio-Brasion Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
calendar|west|central
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Boise, ID. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 14
Bio-Ultimate Platinum Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 28-30
Himalayan Mountain Abhyanga by Diamond Way Ayurveda. San Luis Obispo, CA. 866.303.3321.
NOVEMBER 7
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Central
OCTOBER (ONGOING)
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by Hydropeptide. Webinars held Mondays and Wednesdays. www.hydropeptide.com.
NOVEMBER 14-20
Airbrushing and Creating a Portfolio by Award Studio. Burbank, CA. www.AwardMakeupSchool.com
NOVEMBER 7-9
PediKarma: Ayurvedic Foot Treatment by Diamond Way Ayurveda. San Luis Obispo, CA. 866.303.3321.
NOVEMBER 15
Bio-Synthesis Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 13
Kansa Face Wand Training by Diamond Way Ayurveda. San Luis Obispo, CA. 866.303.3321. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Honolulu, HI. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Santa Barbara, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 2
Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. St. Louis, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Lombard, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 16
Bio-Oxygen Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
NOVEMBER 17
Bio-Brasion Continuing Education by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.
OCTOBER 9
Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. San Antonio, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
calendar|central|east
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 20
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 10
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Chicago, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 21
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Houston, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 24
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 25
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.
East
OCTOBER (ONGOING)
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.
NOVEMBER 6
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 7
Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Kansas City, MO. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 13
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Skokie, IL. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Designing Your Face: Corrective Makeup Techniques for Daytime by Gabriel Productions. Coral Gables, FL. 305.444.1999. Evening and Glamour Makeup Program by Gabriel Productions. Coral Gables, FL. 305.444.1999. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by Hydropeptide. Webinars held Mondays and Wednesdays. www.hydropeptide.com. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.
calendar|east
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 6
Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference Skincare. Stuart, FL. 888.568.3150.
OCTOBER 23-24
The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa by Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa and Dermascope. Philadelphia, PA. 1.800.471.0229. www.LNEONLINE.com.
NOVEMBER 7
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 24
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Richmond, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Ann Arbor, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 2
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 13
Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Falls Church, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 23
Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. Richmond, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Ann Arbor, MI. 877.PCA.SKIN.
OCTOBER 24-26
3-Day Body Care Academy by Repchage Lydia Sarfati Academy. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.
calendar|east|international
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Philadelphia, PA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
NOVEMBER 14
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Charlotte, NC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Falls Church, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
International
NOVEMBER 13-14
Congreso Hispano de Estetica Spa Y Belleza EHESB by Enlace Hispano de Estetica. Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. 256.377.4902.
NOVEMBER 21
Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN. Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Newark, NJ. 877.PCA.SKIN.
TRADE SHOWS
Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa and Dermascope
NOVEMBER 20
Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Advanced Treatment Technologies Seminar by PCA Skin. Indianapolis, IN. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Atlanta, GA. 877.PCA.SKIN.
The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2012 March 4-5 Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2012 May 6-7 Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2012 September 9-10 Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2012 October 28-29 Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229
advertisers index
Page Number Reader Service No.
5................ A Natural Difference ................................................ www.anaturaldifference.com ......................................... 232 122............ A1A Facial and Salon Equipment ............................. www.a1afacial.com ........................................................ 299 6................ Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts ........................... www.arcskincare.com .................................................... 120 41.............. Athena .................................................................... www.athenabeauty.com ................................................ 162 106............ Ayu Sunless ............................................................. www.ayusunless.com ..................................................... 355 36.............. Beautiful Image ...................................................... www.beautifulimagellc.com .......................................... 183 78.............. Bio Jouvance.......................................................... www.biojouvance.com .................................................. 140 8,87........... Bio-Therapeutic ..................................................... www.bio-therapeutic.com ............................................. 139 74.............. Biomani .................................................................. www.biomaniskincare.com ............................................ 276 71.............. Bon Vital ................................................................ www.bonvital.com ......................................................... 265 60.............. Brushes by Karen ................................................... www.brushesbykaren.com ............................................. 104 110............ Brush Up With Barbara .......................................... www.mineral-mine.com ................................................. 103 49.............. Clarisonic ............................................................... www.clarisonic.com/professional .................................. 352 95.............. Cosmtiques France Laure..................................... www.francelaure.com .................................................... 199 114............ Cosmobelleza & Wellness ...................................... www.feriacosmobelleza.com .............................................. 122............ Dermafile Professional ........................................... www.dermafile.com....................................................... 296 9................ DermaQuest .......................................................... www.dermaquestinc.com .............................................. 261 64.............. DermAware ............................................................ www.dermaware.com .................................................... 256 101............ DPC International................................................... www.DPC2000.com ...................................................... 146 19.............. Dr. Grandel............................................................. www.grandel-usa.com ................................................... 109 58.............. Dr. Jeff .................................................................... www.dr-jeff.com ............................................................ 248 11.............. Dr. med. Christine Schrammek............................... www.schrammek.de/greenpeelusa.html ....................... 166 63.............. Edge Systems ........................................................ www.hydrafacial.com/lne .............................................. 201 2-3 ..............minence Organic Skin Care ................................. www.eminenceorganics.com........................................... 157 50 ...............Enspri ..................................................................... www.enspriskincare.com ................................................. 318 30.............. Equipro .................................................................. www.equipro-bty.com ..................................................... 242 62.............. Estheticians Etc ...................................................... www.estheticiansetc.com ................................................ 177 89.............. Fallene Skin Wellness ............................................. www.solarprotectionformula.com .................................... 305 132............ G.M. Collin ............................................................. www.gmcollin.com ......................................................... 115 21.............. Hydropeptide......................................................... www.hydropeptide.com.................................................. 278 102............ Image Skincare ....................................................... www.imageskincare.com................................................. 178 131............ Jojoba Company ..........................................................www.jojobacompany.com ............................................. 108 14-15 ........ Klapp ............................................................................www.klapp-usa-shop.com ............................................. 147 13.............. Lady Burd .....................................................................www.ladyburd.com........................................................ 119 111............ Lucrce Physicians Aesthetic Research ...................www.lucrece.com .......................................................... 263 53.............. Methode Physiodermie ..............................................www.derme.ca .............................................................. 193 45.............. Murad ...........................................................................www.murad.com ........................................................... 184 57.............. Nature Pure Labs ........................................................www.naturepure.com .................................................... 316 22.............. Nelly de Vuyst/Derme.ca ...........................................www.derme.ca .............................................................. 124 79.............. Oakworks .....................................................................www.oakworks.com ....................................................... 313 69.............. PCA Skin ......................................................................www.pcaskin.com .......................................................... 110 80.............. PFB Vanish ...................................................................www.pfbvanish.com ...................................................... 229 85.............. Rapidlash .....................................................................www.tryrapidlash.com ................................................... 224 100............ Rejuvi Laboratory ..........................................................www.rejuvilab.com ........................................................ 149 42.............. Saian..............................................................................www.saian.net ............................................................... 165 29.............. Satin Smooth.................................................................www.satinsmooth.com .................................................. 304 118............ Select Spa Source .........................................................www.selectspa.com ....................................................... 253 92.............. Sesha Skin Therapy .......................................................www.seshaskin.com ....................................................... 271 17.............. Shira ..............................................................................www.shirausa.com ......................................................... 249 37.............. Silhouet Tone ................................................................www.silhouettone.com .................................................. 192 75.............. Skin Accents ..................................................................www.skinaccents.com.................................................... 218 61.............. Szep Elet/ilike................................................................www.szepelet.com ........................................................ 274 122............ Teka Fine Line Brushes..................................................www.tekabrushonline.com ............................................ 195 76.............. Terraderma/Pibbs................................................... www.pibbs.com ............................................................. 129 112 .............. Touch Beauty ....................................................... www.touchebeauty.com ................................................ 243 7................ Yum Skin Care/Vitelle ............................................. www.yumskincare.com, www.vitellelab.net ................... 206
*Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spas Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
The Jojoba Companys

HobaCare Jojoba
EL
ES INAT IM
YN
TIC THE
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means means
PURIT Y
HobaCare is 100% Pure, Unrefined, First-Press Golden Jojoba.
Nature's Conditioner for Skin, Scalp and Hair

Weve been advocating purity to skin care and massage professionals since 1994. Customers are demanding a higher standard. Skin care and massage professionals are responding. Move away from formulations; come home to HobaCare, our 100% pure jojoba. Do it for your benefit, for the sustainability of the planet, and for your clients.
It does not stain; its non-allergenic; it does not clog pores, and it has an indefinite shelf life. Our pure HobaCare Jojoba is natures emollient, akin to the natural fluids of our skin. A few drops go a long way. HobaCare Jojoba is especially helpful with sensitive skin, including newborns. Try our recipes or use your own to blend essential oils. And, rest assured there are absolutely NO synthetics, fillers or additives.
Were very proud that our professional customers use our HobaCare Jojoba on their clients AND on themselves as part of their personal care regimens. They know its essential for skin and hair revitalization. Use it to remove make-up, for HobaCare Jojoba is available in facial massage, and to deep-cleanse the skin. HobaCare Jojoba your choice of pesticide-free or is effective with any full body massage modality requiring USDA Certified 100% Organic. direct contact with the skin.
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The Jojoba Company

Since 1994
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AnTi-Aging mASk
EvERy bEAuTiful Skin hAS A SECRET
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The alliance of powerful innovative sciences Plant Stem Cells: regulate the activity of the genes Advanced Ceramide Complex (Skinmimics Complex) An exclusive blend of Peptides, Resveratrol and Probiotics.

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LNE & Spathe magazine for skin care and spa professionals

Industry Leaders in Keeping the Planet Green.

Firm Skin VitaSkin Solution

Toll-Free 1-888-747-6342 | info@eminenceorganics.com www.eminenceorganics.com

Autumn Body Essentials

Create a Luxurious, Impeccable Lavatory Autumn Body Essentials

Heat Up Your Fall Menu

103 104 107 109

113 115 117 119 121

courtesy of Franck Provost

Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa October 2011

Natural antioxidants and pore refinement.

Beautiful Results with Pumpkin

advanced Rejuvenating concepts

Denise R. Fuller, denise@lneonline.com

Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa October 2011

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #206

Advance Hand Held Tools

Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa October 2011

U S I N G T H E L AT E S T SKIN BRIGHTENING INGREDIENTS:

DermaQuest Skin Therapy

The SkinBrite Collection

dermaquestinc.com or contact us at 800.213.8100 or education@dermaquestinc.com.

spa of the month|studio 55 day spa & salon

spa of the month|studio 55 day spa & salon

Feel, Smell, and See the Difference!

Our Products are as Pure as Nature Itself

Les Nouvelles Esthtiques & Spa October 2011

ECO Control certified

Fast reliable convenient. For more information contact:

spa of the month|studio 55 day spa & salon

spa of the month|studio 55 day spa & salon

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #124

the international congress of esthetics and spa

INCLUSIVE! SEPARATE FEES

October 23 & 24,2011

hotel & traVel inforMation

Located across the street from the Convention Center

Rate includes deluxe continental breakfast

HILTON GARDEN INN

Located across the street from the Convention Center

Located 1 block from the Convention Center

Adjacent to the Convention Center

RESERVE YOUR HOTEL

AIRLINE RESERVATIONS & CAR RENTAL

GETTING TO PHILADELPHIA BY TRAIN

AIRPORT SHUTTLE AND TAXICAB SERVICES

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Philadelphia 2011

GENERAL SESSION & SEMINARS

GREEN/WELLNESS SUMMIT Located in room 119A

3:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.

4:00 p.m. to 4:45 p.m.

MEDICAL ESThETIC SEMINAR Located in room 119B

SALON/SpA MANAGEMENT BUSINESS SEMINAR Located in room 119B

AESThETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) Located in room 126A

DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS

ADvANCED SALON/SpA BUSINESS SEMINAR Located in room 119A

IN-DEpTh MAkEUp CLASS Located in room 119B

Keys to a Successful Photo Shoot by Buntricia Bastian

AESThETIC INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION (AIA) Located in room 126B

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Philadelphia 2011

DED INCLU WITH SION ADMIS

3:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.