DRL Fitting instructions – Part No.

LR003
Models – Ford Transit MK7 Vans and Motorhomes, September 2006 to 2014

Precautions & General guidance

• Always take extreme care when using power and hand tools and be sure to follow
the manufacturer’s safety instructions.
• We advise that the vehicle battery is disconnected while the electrical connections
are made. The battery is located inside the van under a lid on the floor in front of the
seats.
• Please note that if the radio has a code make sure that you know it before
disconnecting the battery.
• Protect the area being worked on with masking tape so that if any tool slips it will not
damage any adjacent bodywork.
•Fitting this kit will not interfere with the van’s canbus electrical system.

Disclaimer - These instructions are given in good faith but the fitter is ultimately responsible
for checking that they can be followed safely. They apply to the models we have tested but
there may be slight differences on some variants mainly on the position of wiring connections.

Parts included in the kit:-

2 lamp assemblies with bracket attached

2 mounting plates
1 wiring loom and control box
6 12mm x 12 self tappers
4 M5 x 12mm bolts nuts and spring washers
8 M5 washers
1 M6 nuts and washers
1 M4 bolt, nut and washers
8 cable ties
1 wire connector
1 fuse adapter

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Fitting the lamps:-

1. Remove both blanking discs from the

bumper moulding. The easiest way to do
this is to use a Stanley knife and push it
through at 6mm intervals all the way
around in the groove as shown in photo
right, then cut between, or this can be
done carefully with a 70mm diameter
hole saw (extreme care is essential –
recommended only for skilled operators).
2. Then take a half round file and smooth
the hole so that the lamp passes through
and is a good fit.
3. Loosely attach the lamp assembly to the mounting plates (one left hand and one right
hand with the narrowest part of the plate towards the lamp) using the M5 bolts, nuts,
washers and spring washers provided. Do not tighten these bolts now.
4. From the back of the bumper offer the lamp assembly up to the housing making sure
that the E-mark on the lamps is towards the bottom and secure them to the bumper
studs with the 12mm self tapping screws provided.
5. Adjust the lamps to the right position and tighten making sure that the cable is looped
downwards and that the connecting plug / socket to the loom is away from direct road
water spray.

Wiring :-

1. Uncoil the wiring loom and feed the longest wire across the top of the front cross
member and down to the lamp on the drivers side and plug the wires together (they
will only fit one way).
2. Feed the other wire with plug down to the passenger side lamp and connect.
3. Connect the white single wire to the side lamp (blue with brown stripe) or dipped
beam (green with white stripe – blue or yellow/red on some) cable in the loom behind
the passenger headlamp. (to dim with side or dipped headlamps as preferred) with the
wire snap connector supplied. The correct wire will be live at 12v + when side lamps or
dipped beam lights are switched on. It is easier to connect this wire if the headlamp is
unbolted and pulled forward to gain access.
4. Remove the cover from the relay box on the passenger side in the engine bay and also
the smaller cover on its left side covering the main live cable terminals – push in two
clips on its side and slide it upwards. Connect the red wire with fuse to the smaller of
the three connections (see photo 1) with the M6 nuts and washers provided and the
black wire to the earth point on the inner wing under fuse box as shown in photo 2 or
to another good earth point nearby.
If your model of vehicle is slightly different the red wire needs to be connected to a
permanent live (+ positive) and the black to earth (- negative).
5. Using the add a fuse connector supplied take out fuse F34 from the fuse box, insert it
into the bottom slot with the supplied fuse in the top and insert the connector back
into the fuse box slot.

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6. Feed the yellow wire from the control module into the fuse box from the back and
connect to the fuse adapter.
The fuse box connections may differ in some variants – other fuse points or empty slots
may be used if they become live when the ignition is switched on.
7. Bolt the control box in the position shown or nearby with the M4 bolt, nut and washers
provided.
8. Replace the fuse box covers.
9. Use the cable ties to secure the cable under the front bonnet cross member or to the
expansion tank water pipe making sure it does not come into contact with any moving
parts. Position the lamp plug/socket away from wheel spray.

Photo 1 Photo 2

Photo 3 Photo 4

The lights will come on with the ignition and dim with the dipped headlights. They will go off
about 1 minute after the ignition is switched off - a useful “see me to the door function”.

We hope that these instructions have been clear and you are now happy with your installation.

Thank you

Email sales@ledcom.co.uk
Website www.ledcom.co.uk

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Wiring checklist –

Red – live
Black – earth
White – dipped headlamp circuit (signal wire)
Yellow – ignition controlled live (signal wire)

Troubleshooting

Fault Problem / Solution

Lamps do not switch on with ignition Check power in yellow wire – must be at least 12
volts when the ignition switch is on (measure by
probing this wire with a meter)
Lamps do not dim with dipped Check connection of white wire to dipped
headlamps headlamp supply – must have at least 12 volts
when dipped headlamps are switched on.
(measure by probing this wire with a meter)
This function can be checked by disconnecting the
white wire and, while the DRL’s are on, touching it
to the red wire live connection.
Error warnings on dash Fuse taken out of fuse box for fitting adapter not
replaced in bottom slot of adapter – adapters must
have two fuses fitted.
Other problems Usually due to a bad earth connection

On some 2012 to 2014 models the headlamps may be programed to be on

permanently as day running lights. This function can be disabled by your Ford
Main Dealer.

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