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WEAVING TECHNOLOGY

FIRST YEAR SECOND SEMESTER

UNIT PART TOPIC

Different forms of yarn packages like hanks, cones, cheeses, and spools –
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purpose and use

Yarn is a continuous strand of twisted or untwisted threads of natural or synthetic material such as cotton,
wool, silk, polyester etc. Yarn is the basic raw material required for manufacturing cloth. Yarn is
manufactured by various techniques like spinning, reeling, bonding etc. Generally yarn is produced in
spools by spinning mills and then converted to the form of package required by the user industry.
Depending upon the requirement of the user industry, yarn is made available in the form of hank, cone
cheese and spools.

Hanks

Yarn in the form of hank is produced mainly for Handloom and decentralized powerloom sector. Hank is
a conglomeration of yarn wrapped around with particular circumference and length. In other words, hank
of yarn is an object where a strand of yarn is coiled around with a defined circumference and length. In
case of silk and synthetic yarn the coil form of yarn is termed as skein. In the preparatory process, hank
yarn result in more waste than other form of packages.
For example
1. One hank of cotton yarn under English cotton system have 840 yards
2. One hank of cotton yarn under French system have 1000mtrs
3. One skeins of silk yarn under metric system have 9000 meters.
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Cone
Yarn packaged in the shape of cone is termed cone. Yarn
produced in spools is rewound in paper or plastic cones
and quantity in each package is expressed in weight.
Depending upon the manufacturer, each cone of yarn
may weigh 1 to 2 kilogram. Cone yarn is meant for mill
industry although handloom and decentralized power
loom sector rarely use the yarn in cone form. Unwinding
yarn from cone is very easy and attracts less wastage.

Cheese
Yarn packaged in paper tubes or plastic tubes are termed
cheese. Yarn is wound uniformly in the tube as shown in the
figure. A small disadvantage in this style is that, when yarn is
unwound from this cheese, breakage is more comparing to cone
as the yarn experience little resistance when it is unwound from
the bottom of the cheese. Yarn in cheese package is used by the
mill and de3centralised power loom sector.

Spool
Yarn often is wound in spools as shown in the figure. In
cotton spinning mills, yarn initially is wound in spools and
then converted to either cones or hanks. Where as synthetic
yarn manufactures, mostly, wind synthetic filament yarn in
spools and market to user industry.

Bobbin
Certain types of yarn is wound in double flanged bobbins and marketed. These
varieties of threads are unmanageable in other forms of package. Gold
zari, silver zari, metallic yarn, certain fancy yarn are packed in these bobbins
and traded. Many sizes of bobbins are available in the market for varied purposes
and uses.
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UNIT PART TOPIC

I 2 Essential characteristic of warp and weft

Warp
 The longitudinal threads in a woven fabric are known as warp.
 The warp threads are individually referred as ends.

Weft
 The Horizontal (transverse) threads in a woven fabric are called weft.
 A pick run from one selvedge to another in the fabric.
 The weft threads are individually known as pick.

Distinction between warp yarn and weft yarn

Warp Yarns:-
 Folded yarns are mostly used as warp.
 Single yarns of different materials such as cotton, polyester, silk etc.,
 The strength of warp yarn is comparatively more than weft yarn.
 Yarn uniformity is required in warp.
 Yarn defects such as knots, neps and slubs are not desirable in warp.
 Combed yarns are preferred for warp because of their strength, uniformity etc.,
 Twist per inch (TPI) in warp yarns is more.

Weft Yarns:-
 Both single yarns and folded yarns are used as weft.
 Soft twisted yarns are used as weft.
 Strength of weft yarn is comparatively less.
 Carded yarns are preferred for weft.
 Irregular yarn such as fancy yarn, slub yarns etc can be used as weft.
 Coarser weft, multi plies, thick roving are used as weft.

UNIT PART TOPIC
I 3 Yarn preparatory process
All the processes carried before starting weaving is called
preparatory process. In other words preparing the yarn for the weaving process is called
preparatory process.

The fallowing is the preparatory process

 Warp winding
 Weft winding
 Warping
 Sizing
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UNIT PART TOPIC

I 4 Bobbin winding and pirn winding using charka

Flanged package (Bobbin) Flangeless package (Spool)

Parallel wound Cross wound

1. Cop built 1. Cheese
2. Roving built 2. cone
3. Combination built
Yarn winding:
 The objective of winding are
1. To remove objectionable faults in the yarn.
2. To built package of suitable shape & size for further process.

Good winding:
 Good winding process should meet the following requirements.
1. The surface of the yarn should not be damaged during the process of winding.
2. If possible surface of the yarn may be improved by waxing & sizing.
3. Rewinding of the yarn from the package is easy with required speed.
4. The package shape, the size and built must be suitable for a particular end use.

Categories of package:
1. Flanged package (Bobbin).
2. Flangeless package (Spool).

Flanged package (Bobbin):

A flanged package (D.F. Bobbin-Double flanged bobbin) is shown in the figure.

It is having two discs for providing lateral support to yarn. Bobbin is the example of
flanged package in this type of package the yarn as with drawn to the sides of the package
and itself rotate while withdrawing the yarn from package.

Flangeless package:
 The flangeless package tubes do not have any side support in this type of package the yarn in wound around
and along the tube the yarn layer is self supporting.

Improved cycle wheel charka:

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Cycle wheel charka is an improved model of traditional charka.

 A traditional charka is modified by attaching free wheels, chain & pedal set with an existing
charka as shown in figure.
 The following are the advantages of an improved cycle wheel charka.

Advantages:
 High speed of winding.
 High productivity.
 Less strain for the winder.
 Less winding cost
 Higher earning to the winder.
Hank yarn winding in Handloom Industry:
 Traditional charka with swift is used in the Handloom Industry for bobbin & pirn winding.
 Now a days improved charka with swift replaced the traditional charka for winding.

Charka winding:

 The traditional charka consists of a cycle wheel rim and

a spindle.
 A twine connects the wheel and spindle as shown in
figure.
 The wheel is rotated with the help of a handle and the
motion is transmitted to spindle through the twine.

Winding:


 A well dressed hank of yarn is placed over the swift and spread well with the help of leasing
twines.
 All the seven leas are spread well.
 The leading end of hank tied with leasing twine is properly located and taken for winding.
 Break the leasing twine.
 A bobbin or pirn is placed on the spindle.
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 Attach heading end of the thread to the bobbin or pirn and start winding.
 The handle is rotated with right hand and the thread is guided on the package with uniform
traverse and winding is completed.

Object of warp winding:

1. To wind yarn from small spinning packages (ring cops) and convert into cones or cheeses.
2. Large packages such as cones & cheeses can with stand for more time during warping.
3. While winding yarns from ring cops defects such as slubs, neps etc are removed.
4. For handloom industry, ring cops are converted into hanks & bundles.
5. The hank yarn are bleached and dyed and then taken for warping.
6. Different methods of warp winding processes such as cop winding, DF bobbin winding, and Tin
bobbin winding are followed.

Object of weft winding:

1. To wind the yarn from hanks, cones or cheeses into compact form called pirns suitable for loom
shuttle.
2. To wind a continuous yarn free from defects

UNIT PART TOPIC

I 5 Warping and its requirements

Weaving of a cloth consists of interlacement of a minimum

of two series of threads. These two series are termed warp and weft, the first one (warp) is kept vertically
and the second one (weft) is kept transversely in the cloth. In the warp, a series of threads in uniform
length are kept parallel and this process is termed warping. Warping is a process of collecting a pre
determined number of ends from a set of wound package and transferring them into a sheet form.
Good warping
 Tension of all warp ends must be uniform
 Length of all sections, threads to be equal
 Width of section and width of warp should be maintained
 No cut ends, cross ends should be there
 Warp should not be unevenly stretched during warping and elastic properties must be retained
 The yarn should not be subjected to abrasion(rubbing)
 Spreading of warp on warping drum must be uniform and width of the warp must suit to the reed
width
 Pattern, if any should be in order and there should not any error in pattern
 Pattern should join properly and in order
 Production should be optimum with in the machine capacity

UNIT PART TOPIC

I 6 Peg warping, vertical warping, and sectional warping

Peg warping
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Peg warping is one of the simplest methods of preparing warp. A simple rectangular warping
frame having number pegs as shown in the figure is used for preparing the warp and hence the name-peg

warping

Method of preparing the warp

 The yarn intended for the warp is wound in the bobbin/spool/ parivattom as the case may be.
 The starting end of the yarn from the bobbin or any other source is passed through a pipe which is
used as handle cum guide for routing the yarn over pegs.
 The initial end of the yarn is tied in the peg No.1 and is then passed over the peg No.2 and under
peg No.3 (leasing) and passed around peg No.4, and then to left- passing around 5, and then to
right- passing around 6 and then to left- passing around 7 and then to right- passing around 8 and
then to left- passing around 9 and then to right- passing around 10 and then to left- passing around
11 and then to right- passing around 12 and then to left- passing around 13 and then to right-
passing around 14and then to left- passing around 15 and then to right- passing under 16 and over
17(leasing) and then again over 18.(With this process of warping- if the distance from one left side
peg to another in the right side is one meter, a warp with one end having a length on 11 meter is
prepared.)
 The process of warping is reversed and then moved under 17 and over 16 (leasing) and then to 15,
14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and then over 3 under 2 (leasing) then to 1. (With this process, a
warp with two ends having a length on 22 meters is prepared.)
 The total process of this warping is continued till the required number of ends is warped. The last
end of the warping thread is tied over the peg No 1 or 18 as the case may be.
 Leasing thread is inserted between the pegs 2 and 3 then between pegs 16 and 17
 The warp is then slipped out of pegs and taken for gaiting in the loom

Advantages
1. Easy to prepare short length of warp
2. Warping machine is too simple
3. Warping method is simple
4. Possible to produce stripe patterns
5. Warp in any material can be produced

Disadvantages
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1. As only one thread is used to prepare a warp, enormous time is taken to prepare a warp and its
laborious
2. Restriction in length of warp
3. Restriction in more number of ends in the warp

Vertical warping
Vertical warping is carried out in vertical warping drum as shown in the picture and this machine is
associated with a creel. The machine is either four sided or six sided. The circumference and height varies
depending on the requirement. However the height should not be more than the reach of the person
working. Vertical warping machines are available in both fully manually operated and partially manually
operated. The former one is generally used for fine counts and the later one for courser counts of yarn.

Method of preparing the warp

 The yarn package is mounted in the creel
 Odd ends are drawn through the mail eye of the leasing
devise and even ends between two heald wires
 This method is repeated for all the threads in the creel
 Initially, all the warp ends are knotted together and
hooked in a peg at the bottom of the drum
 The machine is rotated laying the rope of warp threads
over the circumference of the drum spirally
 Leasing is inserted either manually or mechanically in
all the vertical reapers of the drum
 On reaching the top, the warping processing continued
by turning the drum in the opposite direction
 Now the rope of warp is kept over the circumference
spirally down
 On reaching bottom, the warp is turned back and the
drum rotation is changed to other direction
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 This process is repeated number of time till the required number ends is attained and this depend
on the number of package in the creel and the total number of ends required in the warp
 Leasing band is inserted in all the leasing points
 On completion of warp, the warp in rope form is slipped out of leasing pegs and kept in ball warp
form
This warp is gaited in the loom as ball warp or beamed in a roller by the
help of hand wraith.

Advantages
1. Suitable for all counts and material
2. Possible to produce stripe patterns
3. No limitation in maximum number of ends
4. Packages in the creel can be of side delivery or end delivery type
Disadvantages
1. Generally, the length of warp is limited to 150 meters
2. Quality of warp is not comparable to warps prepared in sectional warping machine
3. As the out put of the warp is in the form of ball warp, re beaming is required if the warp is to
be gaited in beam

Sectional warping
Sectional warping is carried out in a machine section by section and hence the name. The sectional
warping machine consists of a warping drum, heck box and creel. The circumference of the drum varies
from the minimum of 2yds. The heck box is provided with standard reed, leasing heald, and change reed
and tension rollers. Normally ‘V’ type creel as shown in the picture is used for loading the bobbins.
Sectional warping machine is provided with a measuring devise which enable to see the number of
rotation made in the drum. The machine is also provided with a mechanism which moves the heck box
for every one rotation of the drum. This is to avoid the side ends from progressive wrapping slipping
down.

Method of preparing the warp

 Wind the required quantity of yarn in each bobbin
 Mound the bobbin in creel
 Fifty percent of the bobbins to be mounted on each side of the creel, if the creel is ‘V’ shaped
 If pattern warp to be prepared, arrange the bobbin as per color pattern from one side back of the creel
 Draw the ends through standard reed (standard reed should be coarser than change reed. This reed
condenses the whole of warp threads before it get condensed to the
required width in the change reed
 Draw the ends through the leasing healds, the odd ends through the mail eye and even end between
two heald wires
 Draw the ends through the change reed (the count of this reed changes as per the reed in the loom.
However this reed must be at least four numbers more than the loom
reed. For example, if the loom reed is 52s the change reed should be
56s. This is to maintain the width of warp with that of the width of
cloth woven in the loom as the sections in the drum is likely to spread
a little than it in the change reed )
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 Keep the tension roller over the sheet of warp above the wooden roller

 Knot together all the warp threads and hook it on the nail provided in the horizontal reaper of the
drum
 Apply leasing by operating the leasing heald in the starting of the section
 Rotate the drum number of times depending upon the length of warp required.( if the circumference
of the drum is two meters, by rotating the drum five times makes a warp of 10 meters)
 Slip this knot inside the sections in the drum for a temporary locking
 This warping process is continued section by section till the required number of ends in the warp is
attained
 The sectional warping machine is provided with beaming mechanism
 Load the warp beam in the stand provided and unwind the sections from the drum, put it in the
groove provided for the purpose in warp beam
 Wind the sheet of warp from the drum to warp beam
 Load the beam in the loom and proceed with the gaiting process

Advantages
1. Suitable for pattern warp
2. All folded yarn can be warped
3. Hank sized single yarns can be sizes
4. Any length of warp can be warped
5. Suitable for handloom, decentralized power loom, and mill sector

UNIT PART TOPIC

I 7 Objective and importance of sizing of cotton yarn

Single yarns such as 2s, 6s, 10s, 20s, 30s, 40s, 60s, 80s, 100s, etc received from spinning mills do
not have adequate strength to be used as warp. So all the single yarns, when used as warp,
irrespective of the count, are required to be sized.
1. Objective of sizing
Single yarns, generally, does not have sufficient strength to undergo the stress and strain of
weaving process. Single yarn is sized to increase the tensile strength of yarn to withstand stress,
strain, and abrasion etc during weaving. In addition to increase of strength, sizing also adds
stiffness, weight, and finish to the yarn.
2. Importance of sizing
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The yarn in warp form is loaded in the loom using various techniques. Individual ends from the
warp beam or any other form is passing through different type of gadgets and parts in the loom. In
a frame loom, the yarn passes over back rest, lease rods, heald wires and reed. In all these places
the yarn is subjected to stress and strain, abrasion and if the yarn is not having sufficient strength,
it will break during the said passage at different places. Frequent breakage of warp threads reduces
the production and result in very bad quality product.

UNIT PART TOPIC

I 8 Ingredients used in size mixture and their functions
An Ideal size:-
An ideal size should impart the following qualities to the yarn:-
 Increase tensile strength of yarn.
 Better fiber lay and resistance to abrasion.
 Uniform and better penetration of size solution
 Surface of sized yarn is to be smooth & uniform.
 Better elasticity and flexibility.
 Desired weight and handle to the cloth.
 Eliminate warp breakages, crossing ends and knots.

Sizing ingredients
a) Adhesives
b) Softeners and Lubricants
c) Antiseptics
d) Tinting agents
e) Deliquescent
f) Wetting agents
g) Weighing agents
h) Anti static agents
i) Anti Foaming agents

Details on sizing ingredients

a) Adhesives
 Adhesives should have good binding properties.
 This is the major component of the size mixture and preferably soluble in water
 It forms a thin homogeneous film on the surface on the yarn.
 It should bind the fibers and increase the strength and abrasion resistance of yarn.

Commonly used adhesives

1. Sago flour
2. Corn starch
3. Tapioca starch
4. Wheat starch

Synthetic adhesives
1. Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA)
2. Poly acrylic acid

b) Softeners and Lubricants

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 Softener is used to avoid brittleness of the film.

 It helps to retain the pliability of the yarn.
 Lubricants are used to reduce the fiber to yarn friction and also loom parts to yarn friction during
weaving.
 It protects the size film from abrasion from the weaving machine parts.
 It provides slippage for protruding fibers from the shed.
Examples:
1. Paraffin wax
2. Mutton tallow-best
3. Waxes
4. Oils

c) Antiseptics
 The sized beams are preserved in the stores before taken for weaving.
 It also takes long time during weaving to complete one full warp beam.
 During storing and weaving the sized beams are prone to mildew and insect attack.
 In order protect sized beams antiseptics are added to size solution.
Examples:-
1. Zinc chloride
2. Copper sulphate
3. Salicylic acid

d) Tinting agents
Tinting agents are used for tinting the color of the grey or bleached yarn or to improve the brightness of the yarn.
 This is used in grey state
 Cotton has a cream color and in order to get whiteness bluing agents are used.
 Commonly used agents are Ultramarine blue and acid dyes.

e) Deliquescent
 It is added for sizing cotton yarn.
 Cotton yarn becomes weak, brittle and harsh in dry condition.
 Deliquescent absorbs moisture from air and keep the yarn in mellow condition with good elastic
properties.
Example
1. Magnesium chloride
2. Calcium chloride
3. Zinc chloride

g) Weighting agents
Some time fabrics are used in the grey state and require special type of finish in order to impart a fill
appearance and at the same time giving some added weight.
Example
1. China clay
2. Epsom salt.

h) Anti static agents

 Fibers are bad conductors of electricity.
 When the yarn is rubbed against different parts of loom such as beams, heald, reed etc.,
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static electric charges are developed.

 It attracts dust & flies from the atmosphere leading to weaving difficulties and defective fabric.
 To avoid this antistatic agents are added in the size solution.

Example
1. Soaps
2. Sulphate acids
3. Poly ethylene glycol etc

i) Anti foaming agents

Often size solution form foam during sizing or while preparing the size mixture. Anti foaming
agents are used in size mixture to prevent this.
Example
1. Vinyl alcohol
2. Turpentine
3. Pine oil etc.

UNIT PART TOPIC

I 9 Various forms of sizing- hank sizing and street warp sizing
Various forms of sizing
1. Single yarn sizing
2. Hank sizing
3. Street sizing
4. Mill sizing

Hank sizing
Hank sizing is one of the primitive method of sizing followed by handloom and powerloom sectors in
some part of the country. The process is tedious, time consuming and the objective of the sizing is not
fully met and hence it is not adopted by all in the industry.
Preparation of hank yarn

The hank yarn intended for sizing is to be soaked overnight in water with 1-2 % wetting oil, if the yarn
grey. In case of yarn under gone any wet processing to be soaked in water for about half an hour. After
either of the process, the hank yarn to be squeezed throughly
Method of sizing

 Prepare the size mixture as per the preplan

 Fill the size solution in the vessel sufficent enough to dip the yarn
 Work the hank of yarn in the solution number of time and squeeze out throghly
 Dry the yarn under indirect sunlight partially
 Repeat the process(Point No.3 and 4) number of times depending upon the size pick up required
 Final drying under indirect sunlight with continuous provocation.
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 If warp is prepared imedeatly, wind the yarn from hank to bobbin/spool when the yarn is slightly
wet
 Dry the yarn well if the warp is prepared latter
 Wrap the sized yarn in wet cloth before it is taken for winding in case of taking the hank for
processing after some days
Advantages
1. The process can be instantly carried
2. Minimum quantity of yarn can be sized
3. The process is easy that even a unskilled worker can do hank sizing
Disadvantages
1. Sizing result may not be as good as street sized warp
2. Likly to have haireness
3. As the strands in hank is likly to stick together, during the unwinding process, more hairiness
may form
Street warp sizing
Street warp sizing is one of the best systems of sizing yarn. There are two stages in
sizing warp under this process.
1. Preparation of warp
2. Sizing of warp
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Preparation of warp:
As discussed in the earlier pages
under sizing chapter, sizing normally required only for single
yarn. The yarn intended for the preparation of warp is wound
on tin ‘dabba’ and placed in front of the large warping
machine shown in the picture. This warping drum normally
have 6.5 yds circumference and have self leasing mechanism.
At a time four or five warps are prepared each having a
specific number of ends and length. Four warps are prepared in
the picture shown. On completion of warping, proper leasing
provided and then the warp in rope form is removed from the
drum and made into ball warp. This warp is handed over to the
team of workers carrying out the work of sizing.

Sizing:
Sizing is done by a separate group of workers whose main work is to size the warp and supply the sized
ball warp to weavers. On receipt of warp from the weaver, the sizer, open the ball warp and stretches it in
between two cross bars made of bamboo. Group of
workers get involved in this street sizing activity.
The sizer now inserts the leasing rods at leasing
positions and spread the warp in sheet form.
Size mixture prepared is poured into a tubular cloth
and the same is rubbed over the surface of the sheet
of warp as seen in the picture by two workers. This
process makes the warp to get drenched with size
solution. After applying the size on one side of the
warp, the sheet of warp is turned up down and again
the size solution is applied using the tubular cloth.
The sheet of warp is kept in the same stage for few
minutes to have better absorption of size solution.

Then, excess of size solution is squeezed out by

workers as seen in the picture.
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Specially made brushes are used to brush the

sheet of warp as seen the picture. The
brushing is done from one end of the warp to
other end only. Brushing should not be done
in the opposite direction. After completing the
brushing number of time, the warp is turned
up down and again brushing activity is
continued. Proper brushing is very important
for getting a quality sized warp. The brushing
even out the size solution on the entire sheet
warp and every end in the sheet of warp is
cared by the brushing. The process of
applying size solution and brushing is repeated number of time depending on the percentage of size pick
up required. After every stage of applying size solution, for few minutes the warp is kept idle to get better
absorption. Finally, in the last round of brushing, coconut oil is smeared over the surface of the brush and
then brushing is done on each the side of the sheet of warp two or three time.

The sheet of warp is kept open for drying in atmosphere. If the

atmospheric temperature is not warm enough to dry the warp, a
worker will keep the sheet of warp as seen in picture and shake
number of time to dry the warp quickly.

After drying the warp properly, the whole sheet of warp is

made into rope form and converted to ball warp as seen in
the picture. The ball warp is handed over to weaver for
further process.
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Advantages:
 Street sizing is one of the best method of sizing
 Size solution penetrate well in the yarn
 The binding of protruding fibers is very good
 All the ends in the warp is brushed evenly
 Ends in the warp will become smooth
 The sized threads will have high strength and pliability
 The cloth woven in the street sizes warp get better look, feel and loom finish
 Very much suitable for sarees, dothies etc
Disadvantages:
 Very slow process
 Short length of warp only can be sized
 Atmospheric condition play key role in the quality out put of the sized warp
 Sizing is practiced in the early morning
 Not possible to size in the hot summer or raining season
 Gaiting process in the loom is tedious and time consuming

UNIT PART TOPIC

II 1 Evolution of Handlooms

History of weaving in India

It is not known with certainity when weaving was first
adopted by our ancestors. However, it has already been estabilished that weaving was known about eight
thousand years before Christ. it is a matter of controversy whether wool, linen, silk or cotton was first
used as raw material for weaving. It may be assumed that human beings, impelled by nature and
compelled by necessity, sought a better kind of material than barks or leaves of trees or hides of animals
to protect their bodies from inclemancies of variable weather. It is highly probable that fleece attracted
their first attention. In the vedic age we find a remarkable understanding of spinning and weaving of
linen, wool, silk, cotton. In the ages of Ramayana and Mahabharata, the art of weaving reached a high
standard of perfection and beauty.
The appreciation of fine arts and textiles of Hindus met its
climax during reigns of mugal emperors. Dacca Muslin and silk dictated the fashions of the Asian
and Europian aristocrats till the end of the eighteent century. 400s or higher counts of cotton yarn
were recorded to have been spun by ladies by using a small instrument called “Takli”.
Despite the traditional background of highly developed artistic
weaving with extra weft in different countries, it was surprising that weaving machine was short of
mechanical details till the introduction of the fly shuttle loom and jacquard machine. Since the invention
of the sley and fly shuttle loom in the thirtees of eighteenth centuary there have been rapid improvements
in loom mechanism.
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Evolution of Handloom
There is no conclusive proof to mention the evolution of handloom in India.
But from the available records it is to presume that the developments of hand loom has taken place as
below.
Probably our for fathers would have started weaving
cloth in loom hanging down from the branch of a tree.
There is no wooden structure except upper wooden roller
from which the warp threads are droping down. Stone
weight is used to pull down the warp in straight state.
Weft yarn is inserted through the shedding division and
beat to th efell of the cloth by hand. The loom is exposed
to the natural conditions. From the tree loom the next
development has taken place-
Vertical frame loom.

After the tree loom, further developments have taken

place in the loom technology. Little more frames and
parts are added to the loom structure. But weaving
continue to be an outside activity as shown in the picture
on the right. The loom shown in the picture is an early
stage of the loin loom.

The weaving become an in house activity as shown in

the picture. The width and length of the cloth has
increased marginally. Some more wooden parts are
added in the loom. Pick inserted from both the sides
and beating of weft yarn effected by two ladies from
both side of the loom.

A gradual development can be seen in

this picture. The loom has got a set of regular heald
shaft and a bamboo reed. The healed and reed are
suspended from the roof of the building. A typical
heald reversing motion is used to operate the
healds which is connected with the treadles in the
pit. The loom shown in the picture is a throw
shuttle pit loom.
 19

This is a fly shuttle pit loom. More wooden parts are added and
the loom has a sturdy structure comparing to all the previous
looms. Firm healds and reeds are provided with fly shuttle sley.
Use of fly shuttle increase the production and make the weaving
process easy. Length of warp and the product woven has
increased remarkably.

Further improvements in the loom structure with space

saving technology. The loom is called as raised pit loom.
This loom is always associated with a pit loom. Raised pit
loom is set opposit to pit loom in the same hall of the
weavers hut. This fly shuttle loom having almost all features
of pit loom. Weaver sit comfortably and produce
commercialy saleable products like saree, dothies etc.

The loom has further devoloped to a full structured

equipement for weaving cloth. This is a frame loom
capable of weaving all sorts of cloths including heavy
furnishing. This loom has got pillars, sley, warp roller,
cloth roller, heald shafts, treadles, seat for the weaver to
sit etc. Frame looms are availabel in varies widths to
produce different width cloth.

After the frame loom, many other types of handlooms has come to
the industry. Handloom attached with different type of dobbies, jacquards, looms with take up and let-off
motions etc. Loom with catch cord technique to weave solid border, loom with SPS sley to weave solid
border etc are some of the developments taken place in the loom technology. There are semi automatic
handlooms in which some of the motions are made automatic.

UNIT PART TOPIC

 20

II 2 Various parts of handlooms and their functions

Loom
 It is a machine used for weaving fabric.
 Handloom is a machine operated manually by hands and legs for producing cloth by weaving.

Healds:
 Heald are used to draw the threads through them as per the drafting order.
 The healds are braided or individual pieces mounted on heald frames for producing shedding.
 The following are the types of healds.

Types of Healds:
 Single clasped heald (used in primitive looms)
 Double clasped heald (used for finer count saris, dhotis, dress materials)
 Varnished heald-for weaving medium count
 Steel heald-for weaving all varieties
 Leno heald (used for leno fabric weaving)
Heald shaft:
 It is composed of two wooden or metal frames as shown in figures.
 The Heald wires which are mounted on a pair of rods are attached to the frame.
 In the middle of each heald wire, there is a heald eye, through which the ends are drawn.
 The warp threads are drawn through the heald eye.
 Heald shafts are known by various names such as staves, heddles etc.

Functions of Heald Shaft:

1. It keeps the warp thread as per the drafting order.
2. It helps to form the design/weave.
3. It helps to form shedding according the peg-plan.
4. It also helps to detect broken ends.

Reed:
 It is a comb fixed in a slay with a reed cap.
 The open space between the reed wires is termed as ‘dent’.
 Bamboo, steel, stainless steel and bras reed are available.

Functions of Reed:
o Ends per inch in a fabric is maintained by using required counts of reed
and denting order.
o The openness and closeness of a fabric may be altered by changing the
denting order.
o It beats last pick of weft to the fell of the cloth.
o It acts as a guide for the shuttle to pass from one shuttle box to another.
o It keeps the warp threads in respective positions.
o It also maintains the width of cloth.

Types of Reed:
 21

2. Expanding Reed
3. Gauze Reed
4. Leasing Reed
5. V – Reed
6. Bamboo Reed
7. Zig – Zag Reed

Slay (or) Sley:

 The slay is a wooden frame consisting of shuttle boxes, Slay race, Slay swords, Reed cap etc.
 It swings forward and backward while weaving.
 It beats the last pick of the weft to the fell of the cloth during its forward movement with the help
of the reed.
 It allows the shuttle to pass through the shed during its backward movement.
 The slay also provides dwelling to shuttle in the shuttle box when it is stationary.
 Reed space is equal to maximum width of reed that can be placed in the grooves of the sley.

Shuttle Box:
 It is a rectangular wooden box to accommodate the shuttle.
 It accommodates shuttle when it is stationary.
 It is fixed at both the ends of the slay race.
 The shuttle dwells in the box during the period between two successive picks.
 Picker is placed in the shuttle box to propel the shuttle.

Shuttle:
 Shuttle is a vehicle for carrying the weft from one selvedge to another through the shed.
 When stationary the shuttle dwells in the shuttle box.

Types of Shuttle and its uses

Bamboo Shuttle – Silk saris, Brocades etc

Fly Shuttle – Cotton, Silk, saris, and dress materials.
Movable Tongue Fly shuttle – Furnishing in handloom
Roller Shuttle – Wider width cloth
Swivel Shuttle etc. – Tape weaving

Picker:
 A picker is a piece of wood (or) leather (or) plastic placed inside the shuttle box.
 It moves in the grooves or on the spindle.
 It is used to drive the shuttle from one box to another.
 It absorbs the force of shuttle while entering the box.
 22

Weaver’s Beam (or) Warp beam:

 It is cylindrical wooden (or) metal beam with a pair of flanges mounted on it.
 It is also provided with ratchet wheel and pawl.
 The warp is wound on the warp beam.

 The wooden flanges help to maintain the width of the warp and avoid slippage of warp yarn at the
edges, there by facilitating to wind a longer length of warp.
 The length of warp wound on a warp beam depends upon the count of warp yarn, type of loom,
production capacity and quantity of fabrics produced.
 Normally 20 mtrs to 200 mtrs of warp on a Handloom, 50 mtrs to 500 mtrs on a powerloom, 1000
to 1500 mtrs in auto loom are loaded for weaving.
 Grey yarn sized beams are prepared with more than 1000 mtrs length.

Back Rest:
 It is a cylindrical wooden (or) metal bar (or) roller placed above the weavers beam.
 It guides the warp threads to sley through lease rods.
 It constantly maintains the level of the warp in co-ordination with the front rest.
 Hence longer length of warp can be wound on to the warp beam.
 Level of back rest is raised to insert heavy picks per inch (PPI) and to get better cover of fabric.

Front Rest [Breast Beam]:

 It is a cylindrical wooden (or) metal bar (or) roller placed in front of the loom above the cloth
beam.
 It guides the cloth on to the cloth roller.
 The front rest also helps to maintain the level of the warp in co-ordination with back rest and
therefore longer cloth can be taken on to cloth roller.

Cloth Beam:
 It is a cylindrical or square beam made on wood or metal.
 The cloth is wound on it after weaving.
 It is fitted in front of the loom just below the front rest.
 It is also provided with ratchet wheel, pawl take-up arrangement or any other take up mechanism.
Lease Rod:
 The Individual warp threads are alternatively passes up and down the lease rods, there by dividing
ends in the order of odd and even.
 Warp threads are kept in position by the lease rods.
 A pair of lease rods or 3 or 4 rods is used according to the requirement.
 The lease rods are placed between heald shaft and back rest.
 It places the warp threads in odd (1, 3, 5) and even (2, 4, 6) numbers.
 23

 It helps to locate the broken end and their respective heald for mending correctly.
 Bamboo sticks or Aluminium pipes are used as lease rods.
 Normally it is light in weight

Temple:
 Owing to the interlacement of warp and the weft, the fabric contract in width.
 The temple is a device used to maintain uniform width of fabric during weaving.
 The width of fabric in loom is lesser than the width of the warp on the reed.
 The temple prevents undue contraction of cloth, by keeping the cloth with proper tension.
 It also prevents the damage to the reed by the selvedge ends.

The following are types of Temple:

1. Flat wooden temple

used on handloom for all
count of textures.

2. Walking temple used for heavily wefted fabric such as

lungies, hand kerchiefs etc.
 24

3. Roller temple - used in power loom

for weaving fine and medium varieties

4. Ring temple - used in power loom

for weaving finer verities of Cotton,
silk, polyester.

Treadle:
 The treadle is a pedal or lever connected to the healds by means of cords.
 When it is pressed, it operates the heald shaft up and down according to the peg plan/ tie-up
and produces a shed.

UNIT PART TOPIC

Types of handlooms-throw shuttle handloom, fly shuttle handloom, pit & frame
II 3
loom

Types of Handlooms:-
3. Primitive looms
4. Throw shuttle pit loom.
5. Fly shuttle pit loom.
6. Frame loom (a) light wt. (b) heavy wt.
7. Improved loom
8. Semi-automatic loom.
 25

Pit loom:

 A small pit as shown in plan sketch is made in the

ground to a depth of say about 3’to accommodate the treadles. Loom
frame structure is built around the pit and a slay is hung from the frame.

Throw shuttle pit loom:

 It is an improved version of primitive looms.
 Throw shuttle pit looms are provided with
permanent structures of loom frame, slay, healds, reed, threads etc.,
 In case of throw shuttle pit loom the slay is not provided with shuttle boxes &
race board.
 The reed is held in the slay with reed cap.
 Picking is done by throwing the shuttle by hand from one side to another.
 Light weight, bamboo shuttles and horn shuttles are used in this loom.

Throw shuttle pit loom is used for producing the following varieties of traditional handloom fabrics.

1. Solid border Kancheepuram sarees.(Three shuttle work)

 26

2. Banaras sarees and Brocades (Multi – color weft)

3. Tie & dye sarees of Gujarat(Patola),
4. Pochampalli tie & dye sarees of A.P
5. Vichitrapuri sarees of Odissa
6. Jamdani sarees of West bangal.
7. Set- mundas & sarees of Kerala etc.,

Fly shuttle pit loom:

 It is a further improvised version of the
throw shuttle pit loom to increase the speed
of picking and production.
 The slay of the fly shuttle loom is provided
with shuttle boxes on either sides of the
race board.
 The loom structure is comparatively heavier
than throw shuttle looms.
 Picking is done by using fly shuttle with the
help of a typical rope connection as shown
in fig.
 Fly shuttle pit looms are used for producing
saris, dhotis, lungies, dress materials etc.,
 Dobbies and jacquards are used on these loom for producing borders, pallav etc.,

Frame looms:

 The entire structure of the loom is made with wooden frame with Sley, warp
beam, backrest, front rest, cloth beam etc.,

 Frame looms have come into existence due to certain advantages they have in weavin
designed varieties with more than two healds
and treadles can be woven.
 Frame looms are popularly used for producing bed sheets, towels etc., by using varie
such as honeycomb, Mock-leno, double cloth
Alhambra, Figured bed ford cord etc.,
 Unlike pit looms the frame looms can be moved from one place to another place with
 Frame looms with heavy frames are used for producing coarser varieties of made ups
 Frame looms are also mounted with dobbies and jacquards for weaving figured furnis
 Now a day angled iron or square steel pipe are used to fabricate frame looms which c
dismantled and erected.
 Frame looms are popular in the state of Tamilnadu, Kerala, Hariyana, Panjab, Delhi,
attractive furnishings, bed sheets and made-up
items are made.
 Light weight frame looms are used for weaving finer verities of fabrics with extra wa
weft designs, dress materials, crepes etc in the
places like Madurai, Kannur, Santhipur, Solapur etc
 27

 In many of the handloom centers in the country, pit looms are replaced by
frame looms due to their advantages.

UNIT PART TOPIC

II 4 Path of warp (or) passage of warp in a fly shuttle handloom

Warp beam → Back rest→ Leas rods → Healds →Reed →Front rest→ Cloth roller

 The warp starts its journey form the warp beam.

 It passes over the back rest which helps to maintain the level of the warp.
 Then a pair of lease rods maintain lease between individual ends of warp threads.
 The ends are drawn through heald wires as per drafting order (drawing) and the through the dents
of the ‘F’ reed indicates the fell of the cloth.
 It is the meeting point of warp and the cloth.
 The woven cloth is passed on to front rest to cloth roller.
 The front rest maintains the level of cloth through out the weaving process.
 This helps to wind longer length of the cloth on the cloth roller.
 The treadle controls the healds through reversing roller.
 Reversing roller is used to weave plain fabrics with the heald shaft or two set of heald shafts.
 Roller reversing produces centre closed shed.
 If a treadle is pressed down it pulls down a heald shaft and another heald shaft is automatically
lifted up because of the reversing roller connection.
 This arrangement produce centre closed shedding.
 When the treadle is released the shed closes automatically at the centre of the reed. No separate
device is used for closing shed.
 Hence it is called Positive shedding
 28

(A-Treadle, B-Treadle, C-Shedding roller, D-Heald shaft, E-Heald shaft, F-Warp roller, G-Back
rest, H-Lease rods, I-Lease rods, J-Reed, K-Fell of the cloth, L- Cloth, M-Front rest, N-Cloth roller,
O-Treadle stand pin)

UNIT PART TOPIC

Motions of a handloom—definitions of Primary, Secondary, &
II 5
auxilary motions

MOTIONS OF WEAVING

Motions of weaving

Primary motion Secondary motion Auxiliary motion

Shedding Let off Temple motion

&
Picking Take up Terry motion
&
Beating – up Drop Box motion

Warp stop motion

A weaving machine, i.e. loom is requires to perform certain motions to weave

a fabric. The above table shows different motions of weaving.

Primary motions:
 Shedding
 Picking
 Beating - up
Primary motions are also known as essential or fundamental motions; in the
absence of any one of the primary motions weaving is not practicable.

Shedding:
 It is the first primary motions of weaving.
 It is the motion of dividing the warp in to two layers one above the other for the passage of the
shuttle with a pick of weft.
 Shedding is produced by treadles, dobbies & jacquards or other mechanisms.
Picking:
 It is the motion of propelling the shuttle from one shuttle box to another with the weft.
 A shuttle is used for carrying the weft in handlooms, conventional power looms and automatic
looms.
 29

 Other appliances such as rapier and miniature shuttles are used in shuttle less looms.
 Water force and air force are also used for the weft insertion in water jet and air jet looms
respectively.

Beating up:
 It is a motion of beating up the last pick of weft to the fell of the cloth with the help of the reed in
the slay.
 The slay swings forward to beat up the last pick of weft.
 The shuttle is propelled through the shed when the slay is in its back center position.

(Weaving of the fabric is carried out by shedding, picking and beating up in a sequential order)

Secondary motions:
 Let-off motion and
 Take-up motion.
Secondary motions are next important motions for weaving of longer length of
fabrics.

Let-off motion:
 It is a motion of releasing the warp from the warp beam to facilitate take-up.
 There are two type of let-off motion. (Positive Let-off motion and Negative let-off motion)
Negative Let-off motion: ratchet wheel and pawl, frictional let-off, rope and weight, rope and spring,
chain-lever-weight let-off.
Positive Let-off Motion: Let-off motions used on automatic looms.

Take-up motion:
 It is a motion of winding the cloth on to the cloth roller.
 There are two types of take-up motion (Positive Take-up motion and Negative Take-up motion)
Negative take-up motion: ratchet wheel and pawl, poker rod take-up etc.
Positive (intermittent) take-up motion: worm and worm wheel, five wheel and seven wheel take-up
motion.

Auxiliary motions:
 Auxiliary motions are used to produce quality fabrics.
 The following are the different types of auxiliary motions used on a loom.

a) Temple motion- To maintain width of fabrics.

b) Drop box motion – for weaving uniform check pattern.
c) Terry motion – To maintain uniform height of piles.
d) Warp stop motion – To stop the loom when an end breaks in automatic power loom. This enables
the loom to produce fabrics without broken ends.

Type of Let-off motions:

Positive Let-off motion:
 A let-off motion is classified as positive when the warp is released from the warp beam at a
regulated length for every pick by maintaining uniform tension on the warp sheet. It also take-up
the warp when the loom is operated in the reverse direction.
 30

Negative Let – off motion:

 In case of negative let-off motion the warp is not released at a regulated length for every pick and
the tension on the warp sheet also varies from time to time.
 When the take-up is effected the tension between the cloth roller and warp roller increases and
hence the frictional let-off releases the warp beam to relates.
Ex:
a) Rope & spring
b) Rope & dead weight
c) Rope or chain-lever and weight
d) Ratchet wheel & pawl let-off (Handloom)
e) Rope let-off used on Salem type looms.

Type of Take-up motions:

Positive Take-up motion:
 A take-up motion is known as positive take-up motion when the take-up of cloth on to the cloth
roller is regulated for every pick at a constant the rate.
 The pick per inch can be set as per requirement in case of positive take-up motion to maintain
uniform picks per inch (PPI) in the fabric.
Ex:
Five wheel take-up motion.
Seven wheel take-up motion.
Worm & Worm wheel take-up motion.

Negative Take-up motion:

 In case of Negative take-up motion the cloth is not taken up on to the cloth roller at a constant rate
for every pick.
 In Handlooms the take-up of the cloth is done at intervals of say 4 to 10 inches.
 Negative take-up motion is suitable for weaving irregular weft.

UNIT PART TOPIC

Different types of shed formations-center closed shed, bottom
II 6
clossed shed, top clossed shed, open shed, and semi-open shed

TYPES OF SHED

SHED
 31

CLOSED SHED OPEN SHED

BOTTOM CENTRE TOP OPEN SEMI OPEN

CLOSED CLOSED CLOSED SHED SHED
SHED SHED SHED

Depth of the shed:

 The maximum distance between the top and

bottom layer of the shed is known as depth
of the shed. This varies depending upon the
requirement. The depth of shed depends on
the material woven and the type of shuttle used to insert a pick of weft yarn. A fine cotton or silk
weft yarn is inserted using a slim shuttle. A course cotton or fancy weft yarn is inserted using a big
shuttle. Depth of shed can be adjusted as per requirement using proper mechanism.

(A-Upper layer of warp, B-Lower layer of shed, C- Depth of shed, D- fell of cloth, E- back
end of shed)

Shedding Devices:
 Shedding is the first of the primary motions of weaving.
 It is done by means of treadles, dobbies and jacquard both in handlooms and power looms.
Closed shed:
 In closed shed the warp threads form a single layer after the insertion of a pick.
 Hence it is called closed shed.

Open shed:
 In an open shed the warp threads form two layers, i.e. top layer and bottom layer.
 The threads move from one layer to another according to the weave and produce a new shed.
 The shed remains always open, hence it is called open shed.
 Separate devices are used to close the shed when the loom is not working.

Methods of producing bottom

closed shed:
 In Bottom closed shed
warp threads stay at the
bottom of the reed
touching the race board.
 A shed is produced by
moving only those threads
which are to form top
layer.
 The bottom layer remains stationary.
 32

 After insertion of a pick the top layer comes down and closes at the bottom.
 Hence it is called bottom closed shed.
 If the depth of the shed is 2 ½” the top layer threads move once up 2 ½” and moves down 2 ½”
(total 5”) before forming the next shed.

(A-Fell of cloth, B- Back end of shed, C- Upper layer, D- Closed layer)

Advantages:
The alternate tightening and slackening of top layer threads produced a covered cloth.
Disadvantages:
 It takes a long time to form a shed.
 It is unsuitable for high speed looms.
 Great and unequal strain is put up on the top layer threads.
 Power consumption is more.
 Wear and tear of the weaving machine is more.

Shedding devices producing bottom closed shed:

 Handloom Dobby (Bottom Closed shed).
 Handloom Jacquard
 Barrel Dobby
 Lattice Dobby

Methods of producing Top closed shed:

 In top closed shed warp

threads stay at the top of
the reed.
 By reversing the order of
bottom closed shed some
time a shed is formed with
a stationary top layer.
 A shed is produced by
moving only those threads which are to form bottom layer.
 After insertion of a pick the bottom layer threads closes at the top of the reed.

(A-Fell of cloth, B- Back end of shed, C- Lower layer, D- Closed layer)

Methods of producing centre closed shed:

 Incase of centre closed

shed the warp layer stays
at the middle of the reed.
 The selected threads for
the top layer move from
centre to top.
 33

 The rejected threads for the bottom layer move from centre to bottom simultaneously.
 After insertion of a pick both top and bottom layer move towards the centre and closes.
 Hence it is known as centre closed shed.

(A-Fell of cloth, B- Back end of shed, C- Upper layer, D-Lower layer, E- Closed layer)

Advantages:
 The time taken to form a centre closed shed is approximately half when compared to open shed or
bottom closed shed.
 The speed of shedding is more.
 The strain up on the warp threads is less.
 Wear and tear of the machine parts are less.
 Power consumption is less.

Disadvantages:
 Since all the threads are moving constantly to form a shed, unsteady movement is caused.

Shedding devices:
 Centre closed shed dobby and jacquard
 Treadle loom with roller reversing motion.
 Multi treadle loom with tumbler lever short lam and long lam.
 Wood craft tappet, the Jamieson tappet etc

Open shed:

 In open shed the warp threads form

two stationary lines; the top layer
and the bottom layer.
 A shed is formed by moving only
required threads from one layer to
another as shown by the arrows in the
figure.
 The ascending (moving up) and
descending (moving down) threads
move simultaneously to form a shed.

(A-Fell of cloth, B- Back end of shed, C- Upper layer, D- Lower layer)

Advantages:
 There is no unnecessary movement of threads.
 Minimum time to form a shed.
 Hence it is capable of running at high speed.
 Strain up on the warp is less.
 Ascending threads helps to raise the descending threads.
 Less power consumption
 Less wear and tear.
 34

Disadvantages:
 It is difficult to mend the broken ends
 The strain on threads in the back side heald shaft is more.
 When the yarn is weak, breakages are more.
 Leveling apparatus is required to close the shed for repairing.

Shedding Devices:
 Hattersley tappets.
 Climax dobby
 Knowles dobby
 Double lift jacquards.

Semi open shedding:

 It is a combination of closed and open

shed principles.
 A semi open shed is formed in the
following way.
 Initially the shed is a open shed.
 The threads from the bottom layer
required for the top layer move
straight away from bottom layer to top layer.
 The threads from the top layer required for the bottom layer move straight away from top layer to
bottom layer.
 The threads in the top layer, which are required again for the top layer come down up to the centre
with the falling threads and go back to the top with the rising threads.

(A-Fell of cloth, B- Back end of shed, C- Upper layer, D- Lower layer, Middle layer)

Advantages:
 It has all the advantages of an open shedding.

Disadvantages:
 It has all the disadvantages of open shedding.

Shedding Devices:
 Double lift jacquard and dobbies.

Positive shedding:
 A shedding is known as positive shedding when the healds shaft is reversed to their initial position
without any addition mechanism.
Ex: a) Centre closed shed with roller reversing motion.
b) Centre closed shed with tumbler lever short lam and long lam connection.
Negative shedding:
 A shedding is known as negative shedding when the healds shafts are reversed to their initial
position by using any addition mechanism.
Ex: Bottom closed shed – Heald shaft reversed by using springs or elastic card or dead weight
 35

And in Jacquard harness threads brought down by using lingoes.

UNIT PART TOPIC

Shedding mechanism of a handloom using treadles and heald
II 7 reversing motions-roller system, pulley system, and jack and lam-
rod system

Tie-up connections in a multi-treadle handloom:

Heald
Shafts
Treadle
1 2 3 4

Pick - 4

Pick - 3

Pick - 2

Pick - 1
Design Peg Plan Tie – Up Plan

A 2/2 Twill weave, draft, peg plan and tie – up plan are given above.

Tie-Up:
Pick – 1 (Treadle-1):
 Connect 1 and 2 long lam and 3 and 4 short lam to treadle.
Pick – 2 (Treadle-4):
 Connect 2 and 3 long lam and 1 and 4 short lam to treadle.
Pick – 3 (Treadle-2):
 Connect 3 and 4 long lam and 1 and 2 short lam to treadle.

Pick – 4 (Treadle-3):

 Connect 1 and 4 long lam and 2 and 3 short lam to treadle.

Treadle 1 and 2 are controlled by left leg and treadle 3 and 4 are controlled by right leg.

Roller system

Roller system of shedding is used to open shed with a minimum number of heald shafts. Normally
maximum number of healds operated using this mechanism is our. One or two rollers are provided
one above the other as shown in the figure. The upper one will have more diameter than the lower
roller. The diameter of the rollers depends on the type or size of heald shafts used in the loom.
 36

Total space occupied by the heald shafts (front to back) should be equal to the diameter of the
bigger roller.

Two types of roller shedding devise are shown in the figure. The left side one operates two healds and this
mechanism is having additional levers to facilitate the advantage of leverage. In this type the rollers are
connected with two horizontal levers on each side which in turn is connected to healds shafts.
In the figure on left, two rollers are connected directly with heald shafts. In this
mechanism four heald shafts are provided and though four shafts are provided it can be used for weaving
plain weaves only. This type shedding devises are used in pit loom and raised pit loom for weaving fine
count materials.

Pulley system
The tie-up of healds at the top of the loom by means of pulleys has been
shown in figure. The depressed treadle A draws down the heals D along with
these warp threads which are drawn through its eyes, at the same time, the
other heald E is lifted, with the help of the pulley C, along with those warp
threads which are drawn through its eyes, there by a shed is formed. In this
way the heald E is lifted, when the heals D is depressed in the next pick, with
help of the pulley C, by reversing the order of tread ling, the resultant shed is
known as centre-closed. Pulleys are most extensively used in weaving certain
types of fabrics, owing to its simple arrangement and where pairs of healds
are used.

(A-Pulley, B-Inner diameter, C-Outer diameter, D-Healds, E- Treadles)

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Pulley and heald-horse system

Two heald horses are tied together with cords over a
pulley C above. The heald horse A is to the front side, and the healds
horse B is placed to the other side. The two healds D and F are tied at two
ends of the first heald horse A, and the other two healds E and G are then
tied at two ends of the second heald horse B. Now, when one end of all the
healds is tied up, the other end will be done in the same manner. With this
arrangement, a center closed shed is produced.
This arrangement is suitable for plain weaves and also combined weaves,
where even number of healds are required to be lifted or depressed in each
pick as in the case of pulley.

Jack and Lam-rod system

In this arrangement compound levers have been used to actuate the healds
up and down by means of two sets of parallel levers, namely, short and long lams. The healds, which are
required to be taken down for the first pick, must be connected to a treadle through their respective short
lams, and the heald required to be taken up in this pick must be connected to the same treadle through
their long lams and tumbler lever. This process must be repeated for all the picks in one repeat of the
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pattern. The number of treadles required must be the same as the number of picks in the patter, unless the
same pick is repeated.

(A, B-Treadles, C- Center of the loom space, E,F-Healds, G,H-Short lam, M,N-Long lam, O-
Fulcrum, P-Cords, R,T- Tumbler lever)
 39

INDIAN INSTITUTE OF HANDLOOM TECHNOLOGY, SALEM.

DIPLOMA IN HANDLOOM & TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

WEAVING TECHNOLOGY

II SEMESTER DHTT

PREPARED BY

G.SUKUMARAN NAIR
JUNIOR LECTURER (TEXTILES)
IIHT, SALEM.
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UNIT PART TOPIC

III 1 Picking mechanism of a handloom

Picking is the second of the primary motions in weaving. It is a process of passing

the weft yarn through the shed. Many methods are adopted for this purpose. They are

1. Passing the weft yarn through shed by hand

2. Passing the weft yarn through shed by the help of a rod/stick

3. Loading the weft yarn in a carrier (shuttle)and then passing it through the shed by throwing

4. Propelling the weft carrier (shuttle) through the shed(fly shuttle)

5. Carrying the weft yarn through the shed by some medium or appliance

The mechanism of shuttle picking is negative, complicated, elaborate, costly and

unsatisfactory. Continuous attempts are made to avoid this mechanism which gives total dissatisfaction and
negative results. As a result, positive picking mechanisms which changed the face of weaving technology were
developed.

There are two types of picking mechanism

1. Negative picking

2. Positive picking

Picking adopted in all the handlooms and conventional power looms are negative. In negative picking,
once the shuttle is propelled from the shuttle box, till it reaches the other shuttle box; we do not have any
controller over it. The shuttle is propelled through the shed by negative force. Throw shuttle and fly shuttle
looms are the example for this.

Picking adopted in the entire shuttle less weaving machines are positive. In positive picking the
weft yarn is transported through the shed by a medium or appliance. Air jet loom, Rapier loom, Water jet loom,
and Projectile loom are the example for this type of looms.

Slay is an important part in a loom or weaving machine, as it is called now-a-days. Of the three primary motions
of a loom, two primary motions, viz- picking and beating are executed by the slay.

Picking mechanism

The figure of the slay is shown below and its state is without a shuttle in the box. In case a shuttle is boxed in
the shuttle box, the rope shown would have slightly tilted towards the side in which side the shuttle is boxed.
During the weaving process, the weaver, presses the treadle for forming the shed and simultaneously pushes the
sley backward. By the time the sley reaches the back center, the weaver pulls the handle provided for picking.
The shuttle moves to the other side box.

The most important point to note here is, by the time the shuttle moves to other side box, the slay should be
brought to font center or other wise the shuttle will fly out. In other words, by the time the shuttle crosses the
center of the slay race, the slay should start moving to front center.