Meng AFV Modeller 095 - 2017 July August

Issue 95 Cover.
qxp_Issue 26 cover 13/06/2017 10:53 Page 1
95
JULY/AUG 2017 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
July / August 2017
Meng AFV Modeller
Scammell!
HOW TOW CAN YOU GO?
BUILDING THE NEW 1:35 SCAMMELL SV2S FROM IBG MODELS
AFV-95 JULY/AUG 2017.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 13/06/2017 10:22 Page 222
CONTENTS
2 PLZ05
Adam Wilder gets digital with the Meng Chinese 155mm self-propelled Howitzer.
12 Anatomy of a Tiger
Charlie Pritchett disects the Takom King Tiger.
20 Recovery Position
IBG’s new Scammell SV2S taken for a test drive by Dirk Eickholt.
30 Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 13
The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.
36 Winter Warrior
Lukasz Orczyz Musialek goes to town on Dragon’s Tiger 1 E.
46 Keeping Track
New releases.
58 Valentine
Stan Spooner feels the love for Tamiya’s new 1:35 Valentine.
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1
ISSN 2059-4305
Meng’s 155mm
Adam Wilder
embraces the
challenges of the
digtal age
Today in the scale modelling world manufacturers such as MENG digital camouflage seen in the illustration on the box art instantly
and Hobby Boss are offering good kits for Chinese subjects that caught my interest. In fact, I found the box art as a whole to be
are little known in the West. These AFVs are interesting for one of the most attractive ones that I have ever seen. When
modellers because they are unique. Although having a Russian viewing the instructions after receiving the kit I found that there
appearance modern Chinese armour is interesting because these was an example of a digital camouflage used when some PLZ05s
vehicles give us the opportunity to apply a number of diverse participated in China’s 60th National Day Parade in 2009. I felt this
camouflage patterns that separate them from other modern example to be much more interesting. During this article I will
subjects. The Chinese tend to use some different digital schemes demonstrate how this digital camouflage was masked and
on their AFVs, sometimes containing unusual bright colours. painted. After, I will discuss how the model was subtly weathered.
Around a year ago MENG released the PLZ05 155mm Chinese First let’s quickly talk about the model’s construction.
Self-Propelled Howitzer. Along with the shape of this huge AFV, the
2
C h i n e s e S e l f - P r o p e l l e d Howitzer
3
straight out’ the box

MENG, in my opinion, is one of the best of the new
companies to have started producing injection
moulded scale model kits over the recent years. I
found the assembly of the parts and details located
on the upper front hull to be a little complex. In
general the model assembles nicely. The plastic
individual track links are a “snap-together” type and
somewhat fragile. Although designed to be workable,
once assembled they should be glued in order to
keep them straight while containing the proper slight
sags seen between the return rollers. After taking
photos of the assembled model, I disassembled the
larger details such as the huge gun, turret and
running gear to facilitate painting.
By sheer chance, while looking for photos of PLZ05s on the web that
took part in China’s 60th National Day Parade, I came across a self-
adhesive mask set from DN Models. DN Models at
www.dnmodels.com produces adhesive mask sets to help with
camouflaging for all types of subjects. Surprised by this stroke of luck
I immediately ordered two sets. I knew that having a few sets would
be handy because I would most likely make mistakes while masking
the model. After I started the masking part of this project I found the
nice colour illustrations in the instruction booklet of the MENG kit to
be a very good reference to follow so let’s get started.
4
masking madness
It is always easier to paint darker tones over lighter colours, so the first coat is a bit difficult to apply evenly but the second and
after priming the model I started with the light green colour, which third coats cover the subject fine once they have a base to grab
I mixed using AK Interactive acrylics. I thinned the paint a bit, then onto.
applied the first coat. AK acrylics spray like most acrylics in that
Considerable time was

required to cut and locate
each of the sections that
would make up this complex
At this point I started to understand how much of a pattern. At this point the
task that it was going to be to both mask and paint camouflage was about half
this digital pattern, so I decided to apply finished.
the masks to all of the flat areas of the
model first. You will need a few fine sets of
tweezers to both place and press the
masks onto the surface.
As I moved onto the parts of the model containing
more details progress slowed a bit. As with most
masks, they will need to be cut in order to properly
get them to fit around the different parts of the
model. I had to cut and fit and alter each of the
masks. A pencil, straight edge and sharp hobby knife
were necessary for this task.
5
I decided to move on and airbrush the dark green tone next. Other them so much easier. I kept all of the different colours that I mixed
details, such as the wheels, were painted at this time. Keeping for the camouflage in jars as I would need them in the upcoming
details such as these separate from the model makes painting steps.
First, I carefully removed the parts of the mask that only made up When brushing the squares of the camouflage you will need to go
the black areas of the pattern. Next, I outlined the edges to ensure back and forth between the colours. After painting a missed light
that these areas were authentically straight with right angles. After green square I needed to go around it with the darker green tone
outlining the black patterns I painted them in. A few layers were in order to make sure that it was properly square.
needed to get these areas opaque.
After all of the grey-black sections were applied, I used the dark
green paint to go over and fix any of the shapes around the grey-
black areas, keeping the different parts of the digital pattern tight.
6
time to relax...
After applying the markings I airbrushed a few coats of clear over parts more noticeable, while also unifying the different parts of the
the model in preparation for the washes as they are easier to camouflage. Thinner was used to clean up and remove unneeded
control over satin and glossy surfaces. I used a dark brown oil parts of the wash. Next I moved onto the chipping process.
paint diluted with enamel thinner for the washes. After brushing a
general wash over the model, I also added pin washes into all of
the seams and around the details. This step helped to make these
I would obviously need to apply the traditional chipping process I applied some very fine brown rust tones over some of the green
over this model. I used a sponge to create chips of the dark green chips. There were a few areas where more of the brown rust
tone (that made up the base coat of the actual PLZ) over the would be present, such as over the sheet metal components of
camouflaged areas. First, remove the excess green paint away the model. Applying rust in a random manner such as shown here
onto a scrap piece of paper. Next lightly touch the areas where is much more authentic looking.
you would like the chipping effects to occur. You can use a fine
000 pointy brush to touch up these areas in order to get larger,
more random-looking chips. At this time I also brushed on chips
over the dark green areas using a lighter tone.
7
I added more rust tones over the brown chips using a thinned mix decided to blend some dark brown oil paints under some of the
of oil paints and pigments. The pigments will give the regions of details on top of the superstructure, creating fake shadows and
rust more different tones while adding a very slight texture often further enhancing these parts.
seen on areas of oxidation.
Tape was used to create the red and white pattern over the details
that appear to be some sort of range-finding poles. Some touch-
up was needed after the tape was removed. During this time, I
I painted the MG using a lacquer gun metal-

coloured paint from AK Interactive’s Xtreme Metal
range. An aluminium colour from the same range
was lightly dry-brushed over some of the gun’s
details, creating worn-looking areas. These worn
areas were slightly blended using graphite from a
large soft pencil. After this, some oil washes were
applied using a bark blue tone. At this point I was
ready to add the earth tones to the model.
I airbrushed a light matt transparent with it by brushing on streaks then

dust tone over the areas of the model, blending them downward with a fine
such as the chassis, where most of the brush.
earth would be present. This light shade
was simply a base for the weathering. Larger amounts of the Light Dry Mud
The Light Dry Mud Effect from the Effect were also painted on, then
Nitroline was used to create these blended over the dust tones around
subtle areas of dust over the turret and parts of the lower hull that I airbrushed
upper hull. You can simply brush this on earlier. These areas of Light Dry Mud
effect on, let it dry for a moment, and Effects can also be subtly blended
then slightly blend it using thinner. Note using the speckling technique.
how focusing this effect in the corners Pigments can be carefully brushed on
(where dust tends to collect) also helps to lightly blend some of the enamel
to create contrast, breaking up the dust tones that you are not totally
different parts of the vehicle. The Light content with. Next I moved onto the
Dry Mud Effect can be thinned down to tracks.
make washes like the one applied over
the hatch at the front right side of the
hull. You can also create rain marks
8
After airbrushing the tacks with a buff-grey matt coloured cleats. A fresh satin dark earth colour was mixed for added
base coat, I carefully painted the rubber cleats on the outer earth tones. The Murky Water Rain Marks helped to add a
sides. I decided to mix a thicker light earth tone in order to satin fresh mud finish while the Dark Brown pigments added a
add some texture to the tracks. Dry European Mud pigments bit of texture while also darkening the tone. After randomly
and plaster were mixed with some of the Light Dry Mud Effect adding the tones over the tracks, I wiped the rubber cleats
to create this tone. After brushing on the light earth tone onto clean, this time using my finger.
the tracks a paper towel was used to wipe it from the rubber
The speckling technique was used to subtly

blend these areas of dark fresh mud.
Washes can also be made by thinning this
mix to bring out details over heavily
weathered areas. Faint areas of fresh mud
were brushed on and then blended with
enamel thinner. The same mix was used to
create areas of mud splashed up by the
running gear at the front and rear of the
model.
9
The fresh mud was also applied to parts of the upper hull and turret and blended using enamel thinner.
I added some snow to the running gear to match what I saw in the reference photos that I used
when weathering this model. The textured snow is an acrylic product that does not shrink, turn
yellow or crack once it solidifies. Some Murky Water Wet Effect was used to help give a glossy
slushy appearance to the snow.
Watery effects were added to the rest of the Don’t forget that MENG’s PLZ kit is really nice and
model using the Murky Water Wet Effect lightly that there are a variety of other camouflages that
thinned with enamel thinner. At this point I felt that you can use which are equally unusual while also
the PLZ was finished. As a result of masking and taking less time to apply. The subject is very
brush painting the camouflage this ended up interesting and I would recommend this model
being one of the longest projects that I have ever and I hope this provides some inspiration!
undertaken. The final result is really interesting
and does add some diversity on the shelf next to
my other completed models.
10
11
With so many King Tigers available as 1/35

injection kits, Takom decided to focus on offering a
full interior with scale thickness armour plate to
stand out from the crowd. In this article, I will focus
attention on these special features by showing how
I created this classic ‘cutaway’ model.
Anatomy of a
TIGER
TAKOM 1:35 TIGER II Ausf.B
Modelled by CHARLIE PRITCHETT
12
13
1 2
3 4
To start things off, I needed to cut away the portions of the kit interior plates, which was simply filled with bits of leftover plastic
that would allow the best view into the interior. I started by from the previous cutting operation (Pics 2 to 4). Once the cement
drawing lines on the parts, then began hacking away with a scroll had dried, these areas were easily cleaned up with the saw and
saw (Pic 1). After making the cuts, the modified parts were more careful sanding. The channel in the armour for the gun sight
carefully sanded smooth along the rough cuts. The next step was was carved out with a needle file, and internal components were
to match the internal plates of the upper glacis and turret face rapidly installed. Due to the removal of one side of the tank, many
with the exterior cuts and cement them in place. The result in internal (and external) parts were left out (Pics 5 to 6).
these two thicker armour plates is a gap between the exterior and
14
7 8
Painting commenced by airbrushing the interior with A.MIG-017 colours shown (Pics 9 to 10). I wanted to turn up the red on the
RAL 9001 Cremeweiss (Pic 7). After this coat was allowed to dry red oxide primer, so I applied a ‘filter’ using slightly diluted A.MIG-
thoroughly, the inside was carefully masked before airbrushing the 1605 PLW Dark Red Brown. The internal ammunition stowage
red oxide primer colour. In this case, I started with A.MIG-919 Red parts were all carefully tagged for easier identification in later
Primer Dark Base, and then went back over with successively assembly. Using an airbrush, MIG192 Polished Metal was used in
lighter shades (A.MIG-920, 921, 922, and 923), taking care to combination with Alclad Polished Brass to paint them (Pic 11).
allow multiple shades to show through in the final result (Pic 8). I After these colours were nice and dry, A.MIG-091 Glossy Varnish
incorrectly painted the triangular upper glacis support in this was applied with the airbrush to seal it all in and prepare for
colour, but was able to repaint it correctly before final assembly washes.
later. Various details were picked out using a brush, using the
10
15
11 12
13
14
15 16
18
16
The Elfenbein surfaces were all oil stains were applied (Pic 17).
given multiple washes using only At this point, all the smaller
A.MIG-1003 Interior Wash (Pic subassemblies were installed
12), while the more dominant red into the model before the hull
oxide surfaces were given a and turret were cemented
variety of darker and lighter together (Pic 18 to 21).
washes (Pic 13). The floors were
singled out for an extra-grimy The exterior was primed in the
appearance, beginning with same A.MIG-920 Red Primer
slurries of pigment powders Base (Pic 22) used on the
mixed with tap water (Pic 14). interior, before applying A.MIG-
Once these were dry, 2010 Scratches Effects and a
combinations of A.MIG-1408 coat of A.MIG-011 Dunkelgelb.
Fresh Engine Oil and A.MIG-1409 Chipping was done using a wet
Fuel Stains were built up in paint brush and an old paint
layers, adding more pigment brush handle sculpted into a
powder for good measure (Pic chipping tool (Pic 23). For the
15). The engine air cleaners were camouflage colours, I chose
carefully chipped with a brush A.MIG-015 Schokobraun and
17 using A.MIG-192 Polished Metal A.MIG-916 Olivegrun Base (Pic
(Pic 16). After adding multiple 24). The tracks were airbrushed
washes to the engine A.MIG-035 Dark Tracks (Pic 25),
components, some final fuel and followed by a couple of light
19
17
20 21
22 23
18
24 25
washes, before the contact surfaces were painted with Polished

Steel. At this point I stopped taking progress photos due to a
camera problem and a looming deadline to finish the model. The
exterior weathering was kept to a minimum, mostly due to time
constraints. In the end, I wanted to show off the interior of this kit,
so I think it all worked out well after painting all the cut edges
bright red. Although it was a lot of work, I must say I enjoyed this
model every step of the way! In all it took about 3 months,
finishing it at the end of the year and just on time. I had initially
planned to address some detail omissions in the kit, so I had
previously added the vertical dividers in the exhaust pipes and
the sighting vanes on the front periscope housing on the TC
cupola using stretched sprue. I also managed to get a couple
headphone sets installed to dress up the radio. Unfortunately, in
my rush to finish it, I overlooked the addition of 3 small PE parts
on the front fender, I got overspray on the coaxial MG muzzle,
and I simply ignored the periscopes!
19
20
21
Not usually being a military vehicle builder – I prefer aircraft – I was I decided to build the version used by the South African Army in
strangely fascinated by the look of the Scammell when IBG Models 1944. The 6th SA Armoured Division was stationed in Egypt for
released the kit this year. The Scammell, a 6x4 off-road vehicle training purposes and was moved to Taranto, Italy in April 1944. It
used by the British Army from 1935, was built in three versions: an stayed in Europe until the end of war. My idea was to add a
artillery tractor, a recovery vehicle and as a tank transporter. IBG German motorbike to the Scammell as an interesting focus and
have released the recovery vehicle first, as the SV2S version. Its change of colour. Since the Germans left North Africa in 1942, I
predecessor, the SV1, were mostly lost after the BEF (British decided to switch to the European theatre and imagined how this
Expeditionary Force) was evacuated from the European mainland Scammell’s crew found a German BMW R12 in Italy and “pulled” it
via Dunkirk in June 1940. The SV2S was introduced in 1938 and out of hiding.
nearly 2000 units were built until 1945. I started the kit with the wheels and the engine. The Scammell had
The kit covers 5 different versions (Afrika Korps, Russian Army, US a 102 bhp Gardner 6 cylinder diesel engine. It’s well documented
Army, South African Army and Polish markings are included). It and you can find some good reference photos on the internet.
contains photo-etched parts and an additional cable for the winch.
The parts are well located on the runners and the plastic is well
moulded and good to handle with very little in the way of flash or
seams. The fit of the parts is very good and IBG made sure to
represent most of the details of the truck. I’ll explain what I added
to the kit; IBG somehow forgot or just left off some parts, which in
my eyes are interesting aspects that would make this model more
detailed.
The access panel to the rear

body received missing detail
with styrene rod and styrene
strip.
Everything was given a primer

coat of grey and rust-brown
which was later revealed using
the hairspray technique.
22
The completed chassis

showing the added detail to
the engine and winch.
With this reference, I decided to add more and painted before final assembly. The rear After a black primer coat I sprayed Alclad
detail to the engine, since IBG had decided axle received some improvements also; dull aluminim on it and on the edges and in
to represent only the major components of here I added some scratchbuilt springs for spots I used Revell 32183 rust. After it
the engine. Fuel injection, accelerator the braking system. These could have dried, I put a layer of hair spray over it all
control and ignition cables were painted been easily added by IBG to the kit but and finally painted it with Lifecolor UA 220
with shades of Mr. Metal Color. The engine then I wouldn’t have had so much fun Olive Drab. After around 3 hours I started
block was painted with Mr Paint Light Blue adding my own! While setting up the the chipping. Metal parts were highlighted
(MRP-24) over a coat of Alclad black chassis I built the winch, which is with polished Mr Metal Color Iron. This
primer. Some weathering effects were underneath the rear box. As provided by procedure was mainly done with all parts
added with pigments and a pin wash. IBG it looks really nice, but it has some of the kit, where damaged paint was to be
More prominent parts added to improve prominent parts that are not included in expected (except on wooden parts).
the engine detail were the oil filter, fittings the kit, mainly the three springs that are Regarding the Olive Drab: the instructions
for the servo brakes and wiring. welded to the frame of the chassis. These suggest to use a grey-green for the South
Next, I adjusted the front axle so that it had to be built from wire. I also added African version. Parts that were not easy to
would be possible to display the front some additional details to the dog clutch. It access received the OD, and the rest of
wheels in a turned position. From this point won’t be seen easily when everything is put the model was painted with the grey-
on I worked through the instructions and together, but I know it’s there! The clutch green. Here I used AK interactive RAL 7008
completed all the steps without putting the operating lever goes right to the inside of Graugrün OPT2 (AK705), slightly thinned
major parts together. These were sub- the cabin between the driver’s seat with a with Tamiya thinner.
assemblies like the cabin, crane, chassis rod connecting it to the winch.
and winch which were treated separately
23
The crane and the top hoist were next. The would have been better enhanced by
hoist was built as per the kit. The crane The rear unit with the compartment boxes scribing before painting.
needed an improvement, something that and the crane received a grey Alclad
IBG didn’t decide to replicate; the metal primer coat first. Then I used a sponge to The outside of the cabin, the bonnet, the
guide for the main cable on top of the small add dark grey enamel paint. A layer of hair radiator and the rims were primed with gray
winch, where the crane beam could be spray was applied, and then Olive Drab and Alclad primer, Revell enamel rust, hairspray
extended. It was built from spare PE parts. RAL 7008. The paint was ‘chipped’ away and a top coat of RAL 7008 from AK. The
IBG provides a cable with the kit for the with a stiff brush and water and finally black camo-areas were added with Hataka
crane extension unit. I looked at a lot of enhanced with grime and oil stains. Blue-black HTK-A224 by careful brush
photos to see what the diameter was, as I The cabin interior was only painted with painting. After chipping and weathering
had the feeling that the one from IBG was Olive Drab and details were picked out after with rust pigments and Mr Metal Color ‘Iron’
too thin. Finally, I decided against IBG’s and weathering. Again, weathering was done I airbrushed a layer of Ultra Matt Varnish
used a small chain from Master Tools with an oil wash and the use of earth from AK over everything. Finally, I added
(No.06624). The cable that connects to the pigments. The two fire extinguishers in the European earth pigments with a fine brush.
hoist the winch under the body is also from cabin were painted with Alclad Polished Pigments adhere better to the final matt
Master Tools (No.06628). The hook itself is Brass ALC 109 on a flat black base. The finish.
scratch built, working to reference images. floor of the cabin is wood which probably
The front and rear treated with a sponge moistened with Revell thinner. Finally I
fenders received applied European Earth pigments, brushed off in places and
scratchbuilt mud-flaps sealed with a pigment fixer. The rims received some chipping and
which were painted flat a dark oil wash with a final layer of Ultra Matt varnish.
black. I also added the
distance indicators on the Now I needed to complete the second part of this project, the
fenders, something else that IBG BMW motorbike. I considered the BMW R12 from IBG at first, but
should have added to the kit, but easy to make. The little ‘ball’ on after completing the kit I was not satisfied with the wheel spoke
the ends were made out of wax. The wheels were first painted detail. I switched to the Zvezda BMW R12 and the PE upgrade
with Alclad black primer. Then the rims got some rust colour and from Voyager. This was finished in only two days and added to the
hair spray before being painted in RAL 7008. Afterwards, the rims back of the Scammell with a rope and a chain. Finally the whole
were covered with masking tape. The tires were then painted with model got another highly thinned coat of XF-57 all around.
Mr Paint Tyre Rubber MRP-173. At this point I had to decide how
to achieve the dirt effect tires and the profile. I went for thinned Even though vehicles aren’t my usual subject, the project was
Tamiya XF-57 Buff and airbrushed in that way that the inside of the finished in only four weeks; surely testimony to the quality of this
profile received the most. Not letting it dry too long, I took a cloth recent release from IBG who have a great range of British
dampened in Revell Thinner and removed the XF-57 on the softskins. Let’s look forward to the tank transporter version of the
outside of the tyre profile. The rest of the tyres were also then Scammell!
24
Leaving the model as sub-

assemblies allows full access
for painting. The winch
operating rods which pass
through the rear of the cab can
be seen clearly here.
With the rear body in place the driver’s

side of the cab and the cab roof are
last to be installed. Thankfully the fit of
the parts is good enough to allow this
method of pre-painting.
The blue-green of the engine block and cylinder

head are typical of British vehicles of the period
and adds a welcome splash of colour.
25
26
27
Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Part Thirteen
Work continues on fitting out the engine bay with the cold weather systems. The engine bay is now a crowded space and the
pre-heater system and revisions to the cooling system that was demands of working inside what is an open top box with virtually
constructed in Part 12. New information about the cooling nothing permanently fixed are considerable. My decision to modify
pipework showed some errors that I was not happy to leave the rear hull plate so that it remains detachable has really paid off
uncorrected so I modified my original parts. Then it was on to at this stage in allowing access for the continual test fitting that is
adding the finer details to the engine with the exhaust pipe required to get all these individual parts to fit.
connectors and onto the complexities of the fuel feed and primer
The pre-heater system with its complex pipework was not a part I was With the main pipe established using platic rod with a plastic tube sleeve and
looking forward to constructing. The system allows a blow torch to be the fishtail shaped from a solid block, brass strip was soldered to provide a
introduced via a port in the rear to heat the engine coolant in the collar 1 with secure mount. A candle flame was used to heat and shape the first
the hot air exiting via the ‘fishtail’ to heat the fuel pumps / starter motor area. connection from the collar to the input of the oil cooler.
In a revision to some of my earlier work the lower connection 2 runs from the In test fitting the whole assembly I had to check that the pipes did not foul the
base of the radiators to the underside of the collar exhaust manifold and that the radiator connection would pass over the
auxiliary generator.
I rigged up a small support strut to hold the pre-heater at the correct height Once I was happy that everything fitted as required I added the sleeve
so that I could remove the rear panel and check the alignments. With connectors using lead sheet and self-adhesive aluminium foil strips as well as
28 nothing fixed in place considerable patience and constant checking is the welds around the collar joints.
required.
I returned to finish air filter system by priming and sanding the pipe work to More primer seals everything and reveals any flaws that need attention.
eliminate any remaining seams. I then added the small welds that pipe work
has using fine red Slaters plastic rod. When liquid glue is applied the rod gives
a good irregular weld texture.
I added the connector sleeve where the tube connects to the air filter box Final touches to the air filter box were the clamps 3 running across the top of
again using lead foil and self-adhesive aluminium strip. Lead wire with a the box and the wingnut clamps.
crimped end was used to make the tighteners.
Returning now to the pipes connecting the top of the engine to the radiators I what I had done. Reluctantly I decided to rework the pipes based on the new
needed to make a pair of non-return valves. In the course of this I realised information. On the front pipes I added thinner connector pipes 4 and 5 and
that the valve would not fit onto the previously made pipework and I also added the angled section to align with the radiator 6.
obtained some clearer photo of the pipework which showed some errors in
8
7
On the rear pipework I retained the original valve but replaced the other pipe correct U bend shape. With the new shape established and the parts
with thinner diameter rod and I revised the shape of the ‘S’ section 7. I used connecting correctly to the radiator I added the connector sleeves as before 29
liquid putty to build up the thickness of the pipe where it joins the valve and I and finally fitted the handwheel and the new non-return valve 8.
made a new feed from the water pump from 0.8mm copper wire with the
Time for another dry run to check as far as possible that everything fits and connects correctly. What seemed like a big empty space when I started on the engine
bay is now stuffed with machinery!
Under the radiator I added the vertical spur pipe for the other valve on the diameter rod which was heated and bent with two punched discs at each
heat exchange system. Whereas the other bends in the pipework are smooth end for collars.
this section features a right angled connector. This was made from larger
9 10
The rest of the pipework 9 was shaped to follow the contours of the radiator The other non-return valve was fitted to the end of the new pipe. At this stage
30
emerging close to the other valves. I am uncertain if the pipework 10 is fixed to the radiator frame or if it is self-
supporting. Fixed seems most likely but until I know it will be left as is.
I needed to construct the exhaust pipes which join the exhaust manifolds to Both pipes are kinked to match up with the holes in the rear plate. This is I
the muffler on the rear of the tank. I only had plastic tube of the required think partly to avoid the pulley wheels and belts which drive the fans and are
diameter which would be difficult to heat bend so I inserted a smaller mounted on the inside rear hull panel.
diameter rod into the tube before heating and bending them.
The vehicle uses a flexible concertina pipe to allow for these direction Time to detail the carburetors with the fuel lines at the top and the throttle
changes which I replicated using 0.6mm copper wire which was pre-shaped linkage controls at the base.
over a straight rod before being slid onto the exhaust tubes.
On the opposite face the throttle control arms were shaped from flattened With the additional detail added the carburettor assembly is quite a tight fit
lead solder which is easy to bend and work with. between the cylinder heads.
The other end of the fuel supply for the carburetors are the fuel filters used lead wire for the frame to minimise the problems of painting the frame
mounted on the fuel pumps at the base of the engine. I started by making which will be an unpainted metal finish. A wire pin was used to mount the 31
the caps from a disc of plastic with two sizes of rod glued on top. The glass filters into the pre-drilled holes in the fuel pumps.
bowl was made from a piece of clear plastic sprue, shaped and polished. I
To replicate the fuel pipes from the fuel tank selector I used some excellent The next stage is to add the pipe carrying the fuel from the pumps up to the
flexible scale conduit tube. I passed some copper wire through the conduit to carburetors. Unfortunately the pipe appears to have no fixing points along its
help with bending it and to form the thinner section which couples to the fuel length and is just secured at either end. This makes it more difficult to establish
filter. I capped the end of the conduit with a photoetched brass ring and the shape of the pipes but I manage to get basic shape. Note the overhangs
added a drilled out plastic bolt head connector. which will be carefully trimmed to line up with the connection points.
12
11
The wire was shaped and trimmed to connect to the first fuel pump 11 and The other end of the pipe was connected to the input on the carburettor 12
then the connection to the second pump was added with a slight upward with a small section of Albion Alloys aluminium tube added as a collar.
angle to clear the fuel filters when they are added.
This T junction connector was added to the pipe using Albion Alloys The completed fuel line system in position with the carburettor assembly dry
aluminium tube again. It is easy to cut so I split the tube to fit it around the fitted.
copper wire and crimped it together before gluing another piece of tube. This
junction connects to the engine primer system.
14
13
The primer pump system injects special high octane fuel directly into the The remainder of the pipework was 14 shaped using 0.5mm copper wire with
cylinder heads via a pipework system. Plastic rod was drilled and used to hexagonal connectors punched from plastic card using the RP Toolz punch
32 make the injector points. Brass rod was threaded through them to make sure and die.
they are aligned as seen on the bottom set 13.
The last section of pipe connects the primer pump with the rest of the pipes, This is a job that I should have undertaken before starting to detail the engine.
unfortunately this is in the narrow gap between the engine and the firewall. I glued pieces of plastic beam to the base of the engine. These will not be
Brass wire was used for this section but the final connection will not be made visible when the engine is finished but will help glue the heavy lump of resin in
until the engine is painted and fitted. place. I also drilled a 3mm hole through the floor and a matching hole in the
sump so that I could securely pin the engine, minimizing the chance of it
breaking loose in the engine bay.
The main fuel feed pipes have to be shaped to run to a tether point on the The copper wire core helped in shaping the pipes but it still took a couple of
firewall and then to connect to the fuel tank selector valve in the corner of the hours work to shape the pipes within the confined space.
engine bay.
The fuel tank selector valve also needs the pipes which feed to each of the This was more difficult than I expected and the position of the auxiliary
three fuel tanks under the fighting compartment floor. I began by making the generator meant that hose would have to flex around it. I started again by
fittings for three 1.5mm solder wires and to then shape them to connect up. gluing three lengths of solder to the reverse of the firewall with epoxy glue.
This time I added the brass tube connectors to the fuel selector valve and The fuel feeds for the fuel pumps can then be shaped to connect with the
plugged the hoses into the bottom. outermost junctions of the fuel tank selector valve.
33
The project continues in the next Issue
In my opinion the best kits of the Tiger I are ATAK Zimmerit 35032
produced by Dragon Models, and the replica of Friulmodel ATL-06
‘221’ I present here comes from their range. I used Aber PE parts 35A10 and 35015
a fully-loaded ‘3 in 1’ kit No. 6253. It has almost
RB Model gun barrel 35B71 and
1150 parts (plastic, photo-etch, metal gun barrel,
MG barrel
shackles and more), which gives huge number of
options and different options on the sprues. The RB Model antenna and its mount
modeller has the choice to create a late production, Eureka XXL towing cables ER-3502
a late command variant, or final production version
of this tank. I decided to build the late version. To
raise the level of details further I added a lot of
aftermarket parts:
36
37
The kit assembles very well and has excellent detail throughout.
ATAK’s resin Zimmerit fits perfectly, and to have more control
during the positioning I used the bottled Revell plastic cement.
When it dried I used super glue to finish the edges for a stronger
bond before starting to replicate the damage. First, I marked out
the damage with a pencil, and then I cut the edges with a sharp
blade and the inner areas were ‘chipped’ away.
38
The sheer amount of photo-etched parts made this a time- parts were also damaged, the fenders were bent and dented and
consuming part of the build. The exhaust covers come from the the turret bin shows signs of shrapnel damage. The most extreme
kit’s fret (it was really difficult to bend them and drill the tiny holes damage are the signs of direct hits made by drilling indents first
because of the brass thickness) and the rest is from basic Aber and filling the holes with Milliput. A toothpick was used to create
set. the final shape working from reference photographs.
My intention was to make a damaged “war veteran”, so along with
the damaged Zimmerit many of the photo-etched sheet-metal
I like to use the Black Primer from Vallejo. All parts were mounted
on cocktail sticks and wooden skewers, making them easy to
handle and allowing good access while airbrushing.
Deconstructed! All of the components ready to start the paint process.
39
The hairspray technique

helped to achieve the realistic
scratches. I used the red
brown acrylic to brush more
controlled scratches.
The Zimmerit damage shows

the primer red painted at this
stage. The decals needed to be
softened and the Microscale Set
and Sol works perfectly.
Camo Chipping Filters and wash

The lower hull and the turret were painted The first paint damage was created after Before an overall wash was applied I tinted
with Vallejo 982 Cavalry Brown to simulate the camo was airbrushed. The hairspray some surfaces of the model with grey filters.
the primer red. When it had dried a little I applied earlier acted as a barrier between I wanted to cancel out the ‘sandy-yellow’
applied hairspray to allow removal of the primer red-brown and camo colours. look of the previous layer over the white
selected areas later. With the Tamiya acrylic Gentle scrubbing of the top coats with a which created subtle blends between each
I prepared the dark yellow base, followed by stiff-bristled brush and warm water revealed panel. Also, some ‘mapping’ with stronger
red-brown and olive green. The main gun random scratches through to the primer. white was applied by brush.
was painted with 866 Grey Green to AK Winter Wash and Streaking Grime was
simulate the heat resistant primer. It was a Whitewash the final layer applied, enhancing contrasts
nice touch to break the yellow-green- brown Before whitewash was applied I covered the and giving depth to the detail.
base and the whitewash finish. whole kit with AK Worn Effect Fluid to have
To finish the other details I brushed a wide an easy solution to wipe off the winter
selection of Vallejo paints. camouflage. The two coats dried quickly
and I sprayed over with white acrylic paint.
Battle Scars For a varied, realistic finish the white coat
To show my model as a veteran I needed to was airbrushed in different densities. I used
enhance the signs of battle damage I’d old brushes, cotton buds and toothpicks
created at the build stage. Original pictures and warm water to remove the white to
are very helpful in obtaining realistic paint various degrees. The result was promising
damage around the shot impacts and and I started straight away with the next
creased metalwork. steps.
40
Exhausts Friul tracks’ holes. I was pleased with the some coats of mud, The areas under the
During the build I hadn’t decided if I would results of this touch of extra detail. The mudguards, where they’ve been removed
be using both of the exhaust shields, so painting of the spare links was based on on the hull sides, show traces of older
had to finish the mufflers in rusted tones. I the same methods as the rest of the dried mud. The wet finishes on the wheels
used only Vallejo paints; starting with a model. The base colours (greys and were applied when this feature was being
Cavalry Brown base, then with different red browns) were covered by white and then added to the tracks to keep the colour and
and orange shades applied by sponge, scraped with an old brush and a texture uniform.
creating a rusted effect. With Volcanic toothbrush. A worn white camo was
Sand and Black pigments I simulated the enriched with different shades of rust. For
soot stains, and tones of rust-coloured this purpose I used the new AK oil paints
pigments gave the look of fresh surface and Light Rust Wash.
rust.
Wheels
Spare tracks IIn this case the wheels aren’t damaged,
The Tiger’s spare tracks are a great area as the rims are steel, but because of the
to show weathered bare metal finishes. winter conditions they’re covered with
Before painting the spare links some heavy build up of mud; dry textures first
realistic track pins were needed. I found and then fresh and wet deposits on top.
what I needed in my wife’s sewing kit. Also, the hull sides and bottom received
Placing some steel pins
in the chuck of my mini-
drill, I sanded the heads
to proper dimensions and
cut them to fit into the
41
A unique touch; the wooden

plank with the nick-name.
Fixed with thin wire this adds
an interesting touch of colour.
The first pigment work on the

chassis. It was necessary to build
the appropriate densities for next
step in the weathering process.
Mud (chassis & tracks)

The fresh winter mud was mixed from Russian Earth pigment, plaster,
acrylic resin, saw dust and static grass mixed together with satin
varnish. I created a dark ‘wet’ shade suitable for the winter weather
and terrain conditions. Finally, to give a sheen to the wet areas, they
were soaked with Wet Effects.
The Friul tracks were treated in the same way. They were sanded on
the contact areas (revealing the bare metal) and then fixed to the
model. They give the model a look and feel of weight and have the
exact appearance of the sag across the wheels. So now onto the last
steps…
The mud was a mix of

Winter Streaking Grime
pigments, saw dust, acrylic
Thanks to this clever potion we can easily get very nice traces of
resin, acrylic glossy varnish,
battlefield filth much faster than typical oil paint fading. Since I started
static grass and dried
using this liquid I’ve found it to be one of the best inventions from AK.
With the help of White Spirit I painted this on all surfaces.
Stowage
From the beginning I was wondering how to create something
interesting from all angles on this Tiger. During the painting stages I
came up with the idea that I could present the tank after refuelling.
With Tamiya's barrels, jerry cans and other items of detailed ‘clutter’ I
added, removed and swapped around the elements until I was happy
and called my veteran winter tiger complete.
AK fluids are perfect to make the

42
weathering process easy and fast.
Here two grimes were used.
43
new releases
KEEPING TRACK
Meng 1:35 BMR-3M Mine Clearing Vehicle

The eleventh release in Meng’s Stegosaurus series is the wheels, lower-hull and excellent tracks which at first look a little
fearsome-looking BMR 3-M, the latest armoured path-breaking daunting but actually assemble quite swiftly due to the clever
vehicle fielded by Russia. It sports the KTM-7 mine clearing unit design but are delicately detailed while remaining robust. No
consisting of the large rollers and electromagnetic attachments. interior is included but very little could be seen on the finished
This latest version has the comfort and safety of the crew of model to be honest, the crew compartment assembly is made
paramount importance with facilities to enable three days of simpler by the ERA blocks designed to be added in sections with
operations in the closed down vehicle. Meng have needed to use some superb and delicate detail on show including the remote
one of their chunkier boxes for this kit, inside there’s a big bundle MG cupola. With no turret to assemble that time is focussed on
of tan coloured sprues (we prefer this to the dark green on a the mine roller which has more stunning detail throughout, we’re
complex vehicle such as this) clear parts, braided metal wire (to hard pushed to imagine how the aftermarket guys will find any
replicate tow cables), nicely scaled chain, poly-caps and ways to improve this kit as it’s so richly detailed and well
photoetch (including a wheel-painting mask). Tracks are workable designed. Three colour schemes are included, all from Russian
individual links supplied in black with softer push-fit end Arms Expos as to our knowledge the BRM-3M hasn’t yet been
46 connectors. Moulding is Meng’s usual state-of-the-art production used in any modern conflict. This level of detail straight from the
with some parts familiar from their T-90 based kits, namely the box proves again we are in a golden-age of modelling, enjoy it!
Meng 1:35 Middle Eastern

Refuelling Equipment
New in the 'Supplier' series from Meng are
these excellent resin fuel pumps, typical of any
modern filling station or garage. The pumps are
double sided and fit together beautifully from
just a few parts with sharp details. These would
make a great focal point of any modern
diorama or vignette and could add a real splash
of colour. Copyright laws have probably
restricted the inclusion of any fuel company
logos but we've had good results with some of
the decal papers available for the kind of
printers many of us have access to at home
and images are plentiful on-line. Check
www.meng-model.com for details of other
modern diorama accessories available.
Best known for their superb click together resin tracks (some formally produced by WWII
Productions) Australian GTG are hard at work down-under adding to their range of detail
sets. In 1:35 are a set of six German ‘Notek’ lights which are beautifully detailed right down
to the manufacturer’s pressed logo. In 1:16, and already put to use on our Panzer IV
GTG Resin project, are a set of various sizes of bolt and nut heads perfect in the larger scale for adding
finesse. Also in 1:16 are a set of various wing nuts, all very finely moulded. Head over to
www.gtg-resin.com where you can buy direct and browse the full range available.
RADO
1:35 SS Panzer
Master Box Grenadier
'Somewhere in Saigon' is the title of this new release in MB's 1:35
Vietnam War Series and is very reminiscent of a scene from a A new name now and the first figure release from the well
famous movie with the most excellent illustrations on the packaging; known modeller Radek Pituch who has been sculpting his
worth the purchase price alone! Of course what's important is the own figures for many years. He has now launched his own
figures themselves, these too are rather excellent with crispness of range beginning with this Panzer Grenadier from SS Panzer
detail and anatomy as close as you'll get to resin figures (actually Regiment 12 from the Normandy campaign. The figure has a
better than some). The five figures will work really nicely as an great natural pose with his MP 40 slung over his shoulder
interacting group, individually, or paired- especially the females who (you will need to add your own sling for this) and he would
although suitably dressed for the sixties wouldn't look out of place in easily adapt to regular tank crew. Casting is excellent with
a modern scenario (we follow fashion very closely here at AFV separate head, arms and weapon. A great start to what 47
modeller…) www.mbltd.info has more details of their creative and promises to be an interesting range of figures.
top-quality figures and vehicles. www.facebook.com/radominiatures
More to keep modern U.S. armour

modellers happy with the first in a new
‘Warmachines’ reference series on the M1
Assault Breacher Vehicle, which although
not having a turret mounted main gun,
seems to take on a more menacing
appearance with it's giant insect style
mine clearer. A dozer blade can also be
fitted and an MCLC (Mine Clearing Line
Charge) is launched from the unique turret
roof. Already available as a conversion
and now as a complete kit from Rye Fields
Models in the current wave of M1 new
releases this is another invaluable
reference of large colour images which
M1ABV, Warmachines 1 not only provide detailed walkaround shots
By Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, but demonstrate the beasts in action
Pearce Browning performing their various roles, perfect if
Published by SABOT you're planning a project with groundwork
Softback format, 65 pages too! Essential modelling reference.
ISBN 9780997 377460
www.sabotpub.com
The M1128 Mobile Gun System is a multi-

role weapons platform based on the
Stryker family of vehicles (available in 1:35
from AFV Club) and continues SABOT's
series of modern US vehicles in up-close
detailed images which will be an excellent,
inexpensive companion to anyone building
this complex vehicle. The majority of the
book is dedicated to the walkaround
images of serving vehicles in Afghanistan
and Iraq highlighting all areas (externally,
no interior coverage) modellers may want
to add detail to or help visually with the
many aftermarket additions for the Stryker.
An 'In The Field' section shows various
Stryker MGS, Warmachines 2 MGSs on exercise during the past few
By Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, years providing valuable weathering
Pearce Browning reference. It may have been nice if more
Published by SABOT images from combat areas of Afghanistan
Softback format, 67 pages and Iraq were included as the ones shown
ISBN 9780997 377477 are excellent, nevertheless a good solid
www.sabotpub.com reference source for the vehicle.
Takom 1:35 FV432 Mk1/2

We've had a flurry of recent releases sent by Takom, first up is this also used for the link and length tracks, the tracks are well
long-awaited British FV432 which has rightly had a great response detailed but look like there's a lot of clean-up with five sprue gates
as it's a subject long overdue as a plastic kit. With over fifty years and two ejector pin marks on every individual link. The runs of
service there's a great number of versions possible (already a third track have tiny sprue gates on the side right onto the track pin
generation 'Bulldog' has been announced) which is going to keep end, much easier to prepare. With any vehicle still in service there
British post-war modellers just as happy as when Takom released should be no excuse for any glaring errors, the wheel and
their series of Chieftains. The kit has a partial interior (no engine sprocket detail certainly looks good and the hull fittings with all the
bay but everything else) so there's a fair amount of sprues in the posable hatches looks very comprehensive. Photoetched and
box with Takom's now familiar flat sprue runners, everything looks clear parts are included with an option to build the upgraded
as you'd expect from brand new tooling, nice sharp detail with version with the roof mounted mesh stowage container (no tarp
minimal flash. There are quite a number of ejector pin marks but cover is provided) and side bins. Marking options include the
everything looks designed for these to be hidden once Berlin urban pattern, Gulf War and an OPFOR sand and green.This
assembled. The hull tub is the main building platform and has looks like a straight forward build from the box, even more so if
some superb chequer-plate pattern moulded in, the interior and you opt to do just an 'external' version, with really good levels of
48
sidewalls are the first steps before moving onto the suspension detail. Well done Takom for producing this neglected subject, can't
arms which are helped into place with the aid of a jig. The jig is wait to see the Bulldog!
Armour In Theatre Vol.4,

tanks in the Great War
1914-1918
Mark Healy and Mark Rolfe
Published by Guideline
Softback format, 65 pages
ISBN 9781908565198
With a wealth of WWI armour kits available from mainstream and British subjects are covered with design, development and
manufacturers (who could have dreamt of this ten years ago?) this deployment and focus on major engagements at Amiens and
new release from Guideline is a great introduction to the birth of Cambrai in their own chapters with detailed text and diagrams.
mechanical armoured warfare. Aimed squarely at modellers This is a very interesting and well presented book (although it has
there's a excellent selection of colour profiles (all with what to be said the production is like a stapled-spine magazine) with
appears to be well researched detailed captions) and period top-quality colour profiles, recommended to anyone thinking of
images to aid with considered colour choices. French, German dabbling with a WWI subject.
Following their excellent M1A2

references, SABOT turn their attention
to the A1s deployed in Iraq 2003 to
2004. The now familiar format of large
colour images with supporting text
make these books superb modelling
reference, with walk-around detailed
close-ups and unique 'in the field'
photos providing the ultimate
reference of stowage and weathering.
There are some really dirty vehicles
documented here! The 1st Armoured
Division was moved from Germany to
Iraq so their Abrams wear the 3-tone
NATO camo pattern which would
make for excellent modelling material
M1A1 in Detail, Volume 1: Iraq with CARC tan vehicles also featured,
the 3rd Infantry division vehicles are
By Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, subject to some great images of
Pearce Browning close-up detail including maintenance
Published by SABOT leaving nothing overlooked externally
Softback format, 143 pages (including behind the side skirts) and
ISBN 9780997 377453 crew positions as viewed through the
www.sabotpub.com hatches. A great one-stop reference
with some excellent unique images.
On Display, Vol.4 Under the Red Star

Published by Canfora
ISBN 9789198232554
www.canfora.se
The ever popular subject of Soviet WWII modelling is the latest 1S and IS-2 heavies and the obligatory T-34 and SU-100. Step-by-
topic in the Canfora 'On Display' series where well accomplished step images and text show how the different modellers have
modellers (many of whom we featured in AFV Modeller) showcase tackled the Russian green and it's various tones and deteriorating
their work with a common theme. The look and feel of this release whitewash winter finishes. Another attractive, easy-going model
follows the previous titles featuring quality large format images showcase from Canfora providing good inspiration and 49
and clean layout. Eight vehicles (some with crew figures but no techniques.
groundwork) are featured including T-70 and BT-7 light tanks, KV-
British Cruiser Tanks

A9 and A10
By Peter Brown
Published by Model Centrum
Progress
ISBN 9788360672280
www.casematepublishers.co.uk
British armour fans will be pretty excited by the release of a brand This information is carried into the superb colour profiles, no less
new kit from a new company, Gecko Models, of the Vickers A10 than ten pages of colour and marking schemes and another
and here's a perfectly timed new reference in the 'Armor Photo fourteen pages of detailed scale drawings of various components
History' series. As suggested by the series title, the period photos and overall vehicles in numerous production variants. This is an
are the main focus of the book with some excellent images from excellent modelling reference, nicely presented on quality paper
archive and private collections. The text is quite brief but very but be prepared to pay a premium; on the pricey side for a
informative with detailed captions accompanying each of the softback with less than one hundred pages.
black and white images with call-outs to markings and colours.
Images of War Special

The Panzer IV, Hitler's Rock
Anthony Tucker-Jones
Published by Pen & Sword Books
Ltd
Softback format,123 pages
ISBN 9781473856752
www.pen-and-sword.co.uk
We're always hungry for Panzer IV reference so were keen to see on the PzIV chassis. For anyone looking for a potted-history of the
this recent release from Pen & Sword. The book is nicely medium tank's combat history the text is easily read and
produced and provides what could be best described as an understood without getting too deep into unit histories and the
'overview' of the vehicle and it's variants. As our collection of like. Some pictures are obviously mis-captioned and fourteen
Panzer IV reference has been strewn around the studio here for pages are in colour with profile illustrations which are
50 sometime (with our on-going project) most of the images disappointing at best. Not one for the hard-core enthusiast but an
presented are familiar and of various quality but all versions on all inexpensive start if you don't have much information to hand on
fronts are covered including flakpanzers and self-propelled guns the Panzer IV family.
Mac One Models

Our first look at Spanish brand Mac One with a selection from Pelican storage containers. MAC35132 is a set of crates which will
their impressive range of accessories for dioramas and figure add a nice touch of colour and detail to a modern scene. More of
display. This selection is perfect for modern scenes starting with a full kit is MAC 35011 to produce an improvised mortar as seen
MAC35162 which is a large (would comfortably fit a modern MBT) in modern conflicts utilising gas bottles as projectiles. All nicely
road section complete with drain cover detail, just ready to paint. cast in resin assembly looks very straight-forward. Take a look at
MAC35136 would work well in conjunction, a nicely detailed block www.maconemodels at their full range of kits and accessories
wall section cast in resin. More modern detail with MAC35160 including 1:48 and more historical subjects.
which is six superb suitcases and MAC35165 a large selection of
Images of War Special-

Armoured Warfare and
the Waffen-SS 1944-45
Anthony Tucker-Jones Much the same as the Pz. IV release, this is a and again, vary in quality and reproduction but
Published by Pen & Sword Books general overview of the final year of WWII and most feature armoured vehicles. The text is
Ltd famous fighting involving Wiking, Hitlerjugend easily read and gives a good insight to the
Softback format,116 pages and Hohenstaufen amongst others across the action involving SS armour. This is another
ISBN 9781473877948 Eastern and Western fronts. As the actions inexpensive historical reference but nothing 51
www.pen-and-sword.co.uk featured have been well documented in the really to excite from a modeller's point of view.
past, many of the images are very familiar
Rolls-Royce Armoured Car

Owners' Workshop Manual
David Fletcher MBE
Published by Haynes
Hardback format, 156 pages
ISBN 9781785210587
www.haynes.com
The Tank Museum's own Historian is the author of this new the Great War, interwar years and WWII all including a great
'Manual' on the famous Rolls-Royce which served the British and collation of period images for modelling inspiration and reference.
Irish military from WWI until the 1950s. Whether you're an A detailed look at the Tank Museum's vehicle contains excellent
enthusiast of vintage Rolls-Royce or British military history this is a close-up detailed walk arounds and a great section on running
must-have treasure of information and images and a superb and maintaining the cars with period illustrations and sections
reference for the kits available (Resi-Cast and Roden spring to from manuals. More unique reference is presented with a look at a
mind, the Editor built the beautiful Resi-Cast kit back in issue 45 restoration by Irish specialist James Black Restorations Ltd
and we still have a few back issues available). We begin with the including progress and component photographs. Another great
historical development and chapters covering the car's service in value packed-out book in this range.
AK Interactive
Released along side their book on the subject
is a set of two Chinese colours. AK 4240 is
eight PLA Army and Artillery tones of sand,
browns and greens. AK 4250 is again eight of
AK’s 17ml acrylics to suit the Marines and
Airborne vehicles, I’d doubt many armour
modellers will have much in the way of these
punchy blues in their paint stash! Both boxes
have a good selection of colour profiles on
the reverse. www.ak-interactive.com
Chinese Power Considering the might of the Chinese armed plenty of high-quality colour profiles. On the
Published by AK Interactive forces it's not until recently that a number of kits modelling side there's a good range of topics
Softback format, 240 pages have become available to start raising the covered as step-by-step projects by renowned
ISBN 8436535576666 interest of these subjects in the West. If you've modellers Sven Frisch, Oscar Ebri, Lukasz
www.ak-interactive.com found some inspiration in Adam Wilder's feature Orczyc, Adam Wilder (the PLZ05), Lester Plaskitt
in this issue this could well be the book for you. and AKI's own Kristof Pulinckx. The complexed
Very chunky for a softback at 240 pages, AK digital patterns are coved in-depth and a couple
have presented this with their usual flair and of Chinese built (Type 69 and YW750) subjects
stylish graphics with around half the book fighting in the Middle East are a good contrast.
52
dedicated to the history of the PLA and their If you fancy a PLA project for a change this is a
armoured vehicles, it's packed with images and great insight into the vehicles.
Centurion MBT
Owners' Workshop
Manual
Simon Dunstan We're pleased to see these cracking 'Haynes chapters include a good look at the interior and
Published by Haynes Manuals' being released at a steady rate and the operating the Cent with some excellent reference
Hardback format, 156 Centurion is a great subject for modellers. As well images, specialist versions such as the BARV,
pages as the now familiar factory diagrams, colour and AVRE and bridgelayer and an excellent history in
ISBN 9781785210570 black and white archive images and walk-around almost sixty years of combat. Praise indeed for
www.haynes.com style close ups there's expertly written text which what is surely one of the most important (and good
begins as expected with design and development. looking!) Western tanks and this book does it
Included in this first chapter are the various marks justice on it's 70th birthday; recommended to any
explained and the multitude of export versions British armour enthusiast and great value for
(including the popular IDF version). Further money.
Takom 1:35 V-2, Meillerwagen & SS100

A real Mega-Kit here from Takom with the mobile V-2 launch Meillerwagen is the all-new feature in the kit, contained on six
system, very impressive in 1:35 to say the least! We’ve already sprues with some photoetch and metal chain it’s a complex
looked at the chunky little Hanomag SS100 in a previous issue so chassis and cradle which looks beautifully detailed but not one to
briefly, it’s a nice rendition of the tractor unit with a simple engine be rushed! The option of transport / raised or launch positions are
and chassis detail. Vinyl tyres aren’t everyones cup of tea but the offered but Takom’s usually excellent instructions fall-short in
two sets included (tractor and trailer) are as good as you’ll see in explaining the choices here. With some very attractive colour
the material. The rocket itself has also previously been released options for the rocket this will be a real show-stopper, and as
separately, although a menacing subject you can’t fail to be we’re sure most modellers will treat this as three separate ‘builds’
impressed by the sheer size but be prepared for some work it represents very good value. Our thanks to Takom for keeping us
53
usually tackled by aircraft modellers with rivets crossing the main up to speed with their latest exciting releases;
joint. As with the SS100 the moulding is clean and sharp. The www.takom-world.com
Sturmgeschütz III on the This impressive series of rarely or never seen (including excellent coverage of the F and F8)
Battlefield WWII images reaches Volume 13 with the hot and the availability of such a wide range of StuG
Mátyás Pánczél topic of the Sturmgeschütz III. The large format kits on the market (especially the month of
Published by PeKo images always provide great modelling manufacture / factory releases by Dragon) this is
Hardback format, 105 pages (duel reference with the in-depth captions calling out an excellent addition to any German armour
English / Hungarian) MIAG or Alkett production, units and other modeller's library. Nicely presented and good
ISBN 9786155583025 unique features which will make for some value.
www.panzerwrecks.com interesting projects. With all versions catered for
Panzer III on the Number 14 in the World War Two Photobook theatres of action throughout WWII. As the
Battlefield series sees the focus fall on the popular Panzer period photos are from various sources the
Tom Cockle III. Common to the previous releases in the image quality varies but the majority we've not
Published by PeKo series the images are king with the familiar seen published previously which is usually a
Hardback format, 105 pages (duel large landscape format, one per page style priority to most modellers seeking reference and
English / Hungarian) layout with detailed, knowledgable captions inspiration with everything on show from factory
ISBN 9786155583063 from acclaimed expert on the subject, Tom fresh tanks to KO'd wrecks. Our thanks to
www.panzerwrecks.com Cockle. The images are shown in chronological Panzerwrecks for our sample copies.
54
order starting with a few Ausf. A and B vehicles
right through to the Ausf.Ms and Ns in all
Forgotten Archives 2
Darren Neely
Published by Panzerwrecks
Hardback format, 240 pages
ISBN 9781908032157
www.panzerwrecks.com
This is one of those books (as was Volume 1) which captivates you the individual photographer's work covering the American advance
from the first cursory 'thumb-through', it's hard to put down! The post D-Day in the ETO featuring both their own vehicles and
author has followed leads and knowledge gained from the armour and German battlefield vehicle casualties. A great deal of
previous volume and with help from Signal Corps veterans and care has gone into the photo captions which must have been
their families, this superb collection of previously unseen images difficult considering many images are from original film reel and
can now be shared. The first thing that strikes you is the image not prints. To round-off this visual feast are a selection of colour
quality, these photographs are taken by professionals with illustrations by Felipe Rodna based on the photographs, highly
professional equipment and the large format, landscape format recommended to any WWII modeller or armour enthusiast.
allows them to be seen at their best. The chapters are split into
Nuts & Bolts Vol.38

Jagdpanzer IV Part 2-
If you're a serious German armour modeller, Nuts hundred made these images must be considered
L-70 (Sd.Kfz 162/1)
& Bolts are familiar bi-words for reliable and in- rare N&B's drawings and plans have always had
Joachim Baschin and Martin
depth reference. This thirty eighth volume great respect for their accuracy, these coupled
Block
features the L/70 gunned Jagdpanzer built by with the extensive walk-around section of several
Published by Nuts & Bolts
Vomag and Alkett following on from the previous museum preserved vehicles and removed
Softback format, 209 pages,
volume on the short barrel tank hunters. The components really does give the modeller a
English and German text
history and technical development is followed by serious one-stop reference. The usual excellent
www.nuts-bolts.de
the structure and history of the anti-tank units and colour plates complete this volume which is sure
a collection of period images with an excellent to be another 'must have' to add to the German 55
section of images in particular on the 'A' version armour modellers' library. Highly recommended
with the tall superstructure, with less than three reference as always.
Takom 1:35 Tiran 4
Building on their series of T-54 and T-55s is the Tiran 4 version of provided de-sprued with only tiny easily removed pin marks. The
the IDF just released from Takom. These captured vehicles multi part upper hull is nicely done with photoetched mesh for the
(around three-hundred in total) make for interesting modelling engine deck, photoetched mudguard supports are also used and
topics with the IDFs series of modifications and upgrades. This kit there’s some excellent fine detail across all of the fender fittings
is based on Takom’s T-54 with extra parts for the stowage, especially the fuel tanks. The turret looks great with all of the extra
mudguards, loader’s hatch and a choice of early or late main IDF stowage and defence weapons. Along with IDF colours there’s
guns. The box is brimming with grey sprues accompanied by a an option to finish the kit in the SLA blue-grey which does look
small photoetch fret, clear parts, metal tow cable and quality rather good! Not an overly-complex kit to build a detailed Tiran 4
instruction booklet. The ’Starfish’ wheels have the correct from the box, with Miniart releasing a full interior Tiran 4 and
differences for the foremost ones and separate tyres (tyre rib detail Dragon releasing several Magachs, now is a good time for IDF
is a little pronounced but easily sanded) and the track links are modellers to plan a few projects.
Takom 1:35 M47/G Patton

For some time now the vintage Italeri kit has been the basis of rim moulded separately we're in for some tedious clean-up with
many M47 projects (regarded as one of their better armour kits) twelve sprue gates total per wheel, this unfortunately carries
but here's Takom with an all-new offering. Boxed as a 2in1 kit it's across to the link and length tracks with a single link having five
pushing it a little as the 'G' German version has little more than attachment points and ejector pins to clean up. The upper hull
smoke candles and a few different turret fittings to distinguish it looks very nice indeed with a subtle cast texture and some sharp
apart. That said, the modelling possibilities are almost endless as moulding on the rear deck which is covered in slatted panels; in
the U.S declared the M47 obsolete on the arrival of the M48 in the reality these are open into the engine bay but some careful paint
late 1950s and shipped the M47 all over the world as part of the tricks would fool the viewer. Separate mudguards are good for
Military Aid Program with it seeing combat in service with those wanting to add damage and the tools and stowage bins
countries including Croatia, Iran, Jordan and Pakistan. Lifting the have nice finesse. Turret detail is excellent and a good choice of
lid with some very nicely done box-art we have Takom's regular mantlets and muzzle brakes are included. Colour profiles are
grey sprues all individually bagged. The lower hull is a really nicely offered on the excellent instruction booklet for six diverse marking
56 moulded piece with all suspension mounts in place and well options. Great to see a modern tooling of the M47 which is sure to
detailed. Wheels look well rendered but with the tyres on the outer be popular.
VALENTINE
58
I must admit, when I heard Tamiya were releasing

a 1:35 scale Valentine I was less than star-struck
over the subject. l already had a couple of
Valentine kits by other manufacturers in my stash
so I figured that was enough for me, but… as they
say, “timing is everything.”
59
The Valentine’s release date was just prior to an annual

event sponsored by Tamiya America at the Long Beach
Grand Prix. I’m good friends with the owner of Brookhurst
Hobbies (the largest hobby shop in Southern California) who
has a sales booth within the larger Tamiya America booth at
the Consumer Event Center, adjacent to the annual Indy Car
race track.
Eureka XXL tow cables, some

stowage and a little wiring are
the only diversions from a true
out of the box build.
For years now, myself and some of my kit built! I was very impressed with the to be painted. The stowage came from a
friends have been asked to demonstrate engineering and fit of this new kit. Almost few sources; the large tarp by Model
model building to all the people attending all the relevant details that you would Point, the smaller tarps and the box of
the race as they were walking by. As it’s want are provided in this little beauty of a potatoes are by Value Gear and the fuel
usually a day filled with building plastic model. Later that night looking at the cans, the bucket, teapot and pan are by
models and surrounded by sunshine and Valentine, I decided to take a few hours Tasca. Finally, the tow cables are from
fast cars, its an offer you can’t turn down! that weekend and finish it off. Other than Eureka XXL. A few other bits were added
A couple of days earlier, a test shot of the the very prominent conduit that Is from the spares box but generally, I felt
new Valentine kit was available to build so externally mounted for the headlamps, that was enough to help me tell an
I thought, why not give it a go? The day this kit wasn’t missing anything. I decided interesting story. Although I never
came, I showed up at the booth and to do a little scratch building with some intended to work on this model past the
started building the kit, even though I had lead wire and Evergreen rod to represent demonstration day, it became clear that I
no real intention of finishing this model. the wiring and at that point, the model now had my unexpected Valentine!
By the day’s end, I almost had the entire was ready for stowage to be added and
60
The link and length tracks certainly help

speed-up construction and have good detail.
Painting for me is very much a shoot-from- Militaria that I thought would make a very I primer my models with Tamiya Grey
the-hip procedure. I find an image or a nice model. It was a Valentine Mk.IV from Primer and then do a quick black pre-
colour profile that catches my eye and just the 41st RTR 24th Armoured Brigade 8th shading and shadowing of all the
go for it. I tend to mix my colours to the Armoured Division. I did some research appropriate nooks and crannies of the
best of my understanding of the actual and realized painting it wouldn’t be a model. Once that’s done I start considering
colour to make what I think might be problem but there were no markings out what colours I’d like to use on the model. I
appropriate for the scale for the subject there for this particular tank or it’s unit. It paint almost exclusively with Tamiya paints
model, in this case, 1:35. I know there’s a was going to require some cobbling and lacquer thinner. For the Valentine, I
lot of guys out there that prefer the idea of together of bits and pieces of decals from started by painting the stowage a little bit
precision measurements of paint and the other sources as well as some hand at a time while masking one element in
exact colours but quite honestly, I attempt painting of markings. I decided not to let turn on different stowage items with Silly
to take a more artistic approach and come that stop me so I pressed forward with Putty. You can purchase Silly Putty in
up with something that is a fair painting the camo scheme that was so almost any toy store and I found it makes a
representation of the tank I’m trying to engaging to me. fabulously pliable mask leaving no residue
build while still creating something that is a and at a very low cost. I have found that
bit on the eye-catching side. For the you can use it over and over again and it
Valentine, I found a colour profile in the does not lose its ability to adhere to the
Tank Power 331 book by Wydawnictwo model.
I try to keep in mind the actual

colours of the items that I’m
representing but I also want to vary
the tones as I did on the fuel cans
so that once it is surrounded by
the green camouflage colours it
still stands out and helps to move
the viewer’s eye around the
vehicle. For me, this creates visual
interest and quite honestly is just
more fun paint this way.
61
Crayola ‘Silly Putty’ is widely available

from toy stores in the USA but also
available in the UK and the rest of
Europe from many craft suppliers.
Once the stowage had been painted and wheels were hand brushed with Vallejo green paint was reapplied to create the
masked, I free-handed the darker green Dark German Gray, there was perfect effect of a flaking edge to the camouflage.
camo shapes with the upper surfaces paler separation between the track link colour All in all, I was very happy with the effect.
where the light would reflect. I mixed and the green colours for the road wheels. It’s a really great product and very easy to
lighter shades of the dark green while It’s at this point that I started picking all the use. Now that the model was generally
adding different tones of browns, tans and details out with various colours of Vallejo painted, it was time to tackle the markings.
yellow to vary the colour in these areas. acrylics to represent the rope and tie down I purchased a few sheets of Archer
Once I was happy with the way things were straps, the various tones of the potatoes transfers that allowed me to spell out the
looking, I once again covered these areas and other details on the vehicle and its word Brooklyn on the bow plate and put
with Silly Putty. Next I basically repeated stowage. One of the last things I did was to the red squares on the sides of the turret.
the same process only with lighter shades add a little rust to the muffler and cover. I The “GO” marking is also an Archer item
of green to create the lighter camo shade. thought this would give a little bit of but I had to apply thin strips of yellow decal
At this point, everything on the model is character beyond just the stowage. To do to represent the markings on my
coloured with these two shades of green. this, I airbrushed various tones of rust and reference. The remaining markings both on
Once I removed the silly putty, I was pretty orange on the muffler and cover and then the bow plate and the red 6 on the turret
pleased with the overall tonality. The last tried for the first time, Wilder Red Masking sides are hand painted. Once the markings
feature that had to be addressed where Fluid to create the edges of the peeling were finished I coated the entire model
the tracks. As I was going to hand paint paint. I had seen The Editor use this with Testers Dullcote to give a nice even
rubber on the road wheels, I simply masking fluid on his Meng P-51 to good finish and to seal the model for the
created a mix of dark greyish-rust paint effect and I wanted to give it a shot. The weathering process.
and airbrushed it over the visible track masking fluid was sponged over the
areas. Once the rubber on the road orange and rust tones and then more
62
I freely admit that I am not a Historian and comfortable with the results using Winsor homestretch. Some of the smaller details
with what little research I could do on this Newton and Grumbacher oil paints thinned were pulled out at this point such as the
tank I found it was located in the UK in with Turpentine. Various colours were rims on the road wheels and the edges of
1942 but as I kept digging into my dotted over small areas of the tank at one the track links using Rub-n-Buff silver. This
research on the unit, I believe it was later time and then thinned out with a broad was then toned down with the wash of Burt
transferred to North Africa. My assumption brush covered in Turpentine. This creates Umber oil paint. This approach isn’t
is that the tank would be repainted with the subtle shifts of tone adding interest to the appropriate for every model but in this
appropriate camouflage but to be honest I surfaces. Pin washes were used around case, I felt it added enough contrast to
don’t know for sure. That said, I used a the details with a mix of Burnt Umber and bring out the details that I wanted to show.
little creative liberty and along with Moss Green oil paint that worked well with Little things like the periscope lenses were
European tones of dirt and grime, I also both the camouflage colours and the tones now painted with dark gloss green and the
added a little warm sand tone to pull some on the stowage elements. I then added rear-view mirror was painted again with a
detail out and to once again help move touches of Mig pigments here and there to Molotow Liquid Chrome pen, (I painted it
your eye around the tank. When I weather have a gritty effect but I did not go too with the pen at the very beginning but my
my tanks I’m a bit ‘old school’. I realize heavy as I felt the visual story was starting masking tape didn't hold very well!) It’s at
there are many products out there now to get a little complicated. Everything was this point I step back and ask myself, did I
that give you the correct shade of filter for once again covered overall with a coat of miss anything?
this and that. For now, I still feel Testers Dullcote and now I was in the
Custom markings were

created by rub-down
transfers and some
careful masking.
With markings in place and the base colours complete

it was time to start the weathering process.
63
A few touch ups here and there and the only I have to admit, more often than not I enjoy the painting process more
thing I needed was a figure to stand next to than the building process of my models, but this was a very satisfying
it. I picked up a beautiful British tanker figure and fun build of Tamiya’s new Valentine Mk.II/IV. I can’t tell you how
from Alpine Miniatures and gave him a quick much I loved the engineering and the ease of assembly. There are
paint job to help show a sense of scale. The many wonderful camouflage schemes out there that you could use on
figure and Valentine was then set on a base I this model so there’s no reason you can’t find something which would
designed and was made out of Ash wood by prove a quick and interesting project.
my dear friend Brian. I primered and painted
it flat black and then I made a simple plaque
designed in adobe illustrator and printed on
my Canon printer.
64
65

Meng AFV Modeller 095 - 2017 July August

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Issue 95 Cover.

qxp_Issue 26 cover 13/06/2017 10:53 Page 1

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by

Editor and Designer: David Parker

straight out’ the box

Considerable time was

I painted the MG using a lacquer gun metal-

I airbrushed a light matt transparent with it by brushing on streaks then

The speckling technique was used to subtly

With so many King Tigers available as 1/35

washes, before the contact surfaces were painted with Polished

The access panel to the rear

Everything was given a primer

The completed chassis

Leaving the model as sub-

With the rear body in place the driver’s

The blue-green of the engine block and cylinder

Deconstructed! All of the components ready to start the paint process.

The hairspray technique

The Zimmerit damage shows

Camo Chipping Filters and wash

A unique touch; the wooden

The first pigment work on the

Mud (chassis & tracks)

The mud was a mix of

AK fluids are perfect to make the

Meng 1:35 BMR-3M Mine Clearing Vehicle

Meng 1:35 Middle Eastern

More to keep modern U.S. armour

The M1128 Mobile Gun System is a multi-

Takom 1:35 FV432 Mk1/2

Armour In Theatre Vol.4,

Following their excellent M1A2

On Display, Vol.4 Under the Red Star

British Cruiser Tanks

Images of War Special

Mac One Models

Images of War Special-

Rolls-Royce Armoured Car

Takom 1:35 V-2, Meillerwagen & SS100

Nuts & Bolts Vol.38

Takom 1:35 Tiran 4

Takom 1:35 M47/G Patton

I must admit, when I heard Tamiya were releasing

The Valentine’s release date was just prior to an annual

Eureka XXL tow cables, some

The link and length tracks certainly help

I try to keep in mind the actual

Crayola ‘Silly Putty’ is widely available

Custom markings were

With markings in place and the base colours complete

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