Meng AFV Modeller 093 - 2017 March April

Issue 93 Cover.
qxp_Issue 26 cover 10/02/2017 13:30 Page 1
93
MAR/APRIL 2017 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
BIG
BANG
March / April 2017
THEORY
Meng AFV Modeller
MARK NEVILLE FIRES UP TAMIYA’S NEW M40

AFV-93 Mar-apr 2017.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/02/2017 13:15 Page 222
CONTENTS
2 Leopard 2 A7
Domingo Hernandez Martin models Meng’s latest Leopard.
10 Big Bang Theory

We go for a Korea change with the new Tamiya M40.
20 Fire and Ice

Flammhetzer in 1:48 by Manuel Reinher.
28 Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 11
The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.
34 Challenger 2
Trumpeter’s Chally modelled by Oscar Ebrí.
44 Keeping Track
New releases.
58 Soviet ‘Fury’
Radek Pituch’s Leand-Lease M4A2.
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1
ISSN 2059-4305 or ommissions.
LEOPARD
T
he Leopard 2 is a main battle tank developed in Germany during the
early 1970s by Krauss-Maffei-Wegmann. It entered service for the first
time in 1979, replacing the Leopard 1 in its role as MBT in the German
Army. After several successive updates and upgrades, the latest version is the
A7 and it still matches the level of the best and most advanced armoured
combat vehicles in the world. In total, more than 3,480 Leopard 2s have been
manufactured and are currently used by Germany with different versions in
service in 12 other European countries and several places outside of Europe.
The latest additions are basically an upgrade package for combat in urban
environments consisting of additional composite armour plates on the sides of
the turret and the side skirts. The A7 also features additional close-combat
weapons; MG 40 grenade launcher, an additional 7.62 calibre machine gun
and the replacement of the main L44 cannon by the Rheinmetall L55.
Meng’s release of the A7 has been very welcome and continues their range of
the modern German big cats with well researched, well detailed kits which are
a pleasure to build.
2
Domingo Hernandez Martin models Meng’s latest Leopard
1:35
3
big cat build
As I almost always start the construction with the lower hull as detailed The kit has some very fine detail and finesse as can be seen here at the
by the kit instructions. The kit allows you to leave the suspension rear of the hull. The inclusion of some photoetched parts offers a great
adaptable to the terrain allowing you a margin of manoeuvre in order to detail out of the box project.
pose your Leopard in a scene.
With the help of a jig provided with the kit I was able to The finished lower hull with a dry-fit of the upper hull and excellent workable tracks. The tracks do
position the chassis protection pieces without problem. take some time to assemble but the results are worth it.
Since I did not like the kit’s

main cannon too much, I
decided to use the excellent
metal barrel from Orange
Hobby.
To add some interest, I decided to cut open some of the rear

maintenance access hatches and working to some good
reference constructed the internals using styrene stock and
some spare items from resin detail sets I’d used in the past.
4
Some of the most difficult construction work Here, the hatches with the scratch-built inner surface details are
concerns the photoetched parts around the positioned and test fitted. Some of the smallest details were
rear of the turret, again, the results of the added at the painting stage.
time invested are worthwhile.
The A7 turret is enormous! Even

without the barrel the 1:35 turret
alone is larger than most 1:48
tank models!
All of the sub-assemblies were
sprayed with a good coat of
Tamiya grey primer allowing me
to rectify any blemishes before
laying on the colours.
giving the leopard his spots
The first layer I painted with XF-67 Nato Green The brown spots I painted with the XF-68 Nato The black spots are XF-69 Nato Black with
from Tamiya lightened a little with XF-76 Gray Brown clarified a little with Tamiya Buff. several drops of XF-66 Light Gray to lighten
Green generously covering the whole model. the colour very slightly.
With Vallejo acrylics and the Tankograd reference book, I painted

the internal components I had made earlier. I also finished the
hatches with a little silver paper and some wiring. Some details I
painted separately to be placed when finishing the model like the
machine gun, rear lights, antennas, etc ...
5
While letting the other work dry, I After masking the area of the The next step was to dirty the track, I
began to paint the tracks working very rubber and inner blocks, I painted didn’t want them too muddy but the
carefully since they are very delicate the rest with a base of XF-79 and truth is that in the photos that I was
assemblies. The first step was to paint XF-72 without mixing, first one referring to even the cleaner tanks
them with black primer as the basis of colour and then the other, without had dirty tracks. I started by applying With the same sponge I applied
the work. covering either. The result of the Ammo Earth Enamel by controlled Ammo's ‘Rainmark Effects’ on both
painting work was evident when I sponging. sides of the track.
removed the masks.
A flat brush dampened with clean The area was cleaned further by Finally I applied ‘Europe The completed
thinners ‘cleaned’ the area where the removing the excess pigment with Earth’ pigment in patches, the tracks showing the
track makes contact with the road a cotton bud. last touch was to apply some fine detail.
wheels. Gun Metal pigment was rubbed rust on very specific points of Remember to
across the guide teeth. the links to break the handle with care.
monotony.
As for the wheels, after having painted them with the base green, I made
masks for the inside and the outside leaving the tyres. The next step was to
paint the rubber with a mixture of matt black with a few drops of flat flesh.
The tracks look a little loose on the

sprocket until they’re mounted in
position, unfortunately a lot of the
track is hidden by the side skirts!
With the sprocket wheels I applied ‘micro

chipping’ with German Camo Brown and rust
colours, the difference between a finished wheel
and an un-weathered wheel can be seen here.
When modelling modern vehicles it’s easy to find

quality colour images to work from when adding
wear and tear to paint finishes.
6
With a barrier coat of satin varnish I was able to Before starting weathering I detail painted The next step was to enhance the depth with a
trial some weathering methods. Acrylics blended the on vehicle equipment and applied the wash, blends between ‘Enamel Nato Wash’ and
with water gave the dusty effect I wanted. minimal decals. dark brown oil colour was flooded around details.
While the upper-hull work was drying I started to The next step of layers was with the same acrylic paint and also pigments, I applied the
paint the lower areas, with Vallejo acrylics I second layer adding a drop of dishwasher liquid to the mixture to break the surface tension
started to paint scuff marks especially in the of the acrylic paint. The last step was the application of enamels in different tones and
prominent areas most prone damage. applying fluid and grease stains.
The suspension and side skirts had thinned acrylics and pigments
applied which were then blended by a damp brush and sponge. On
the side skirts I paid attention to the direction of the splashes
(working to my reference photos) before blending.
7
Some final shading and highlighting brought back some of the detail that had A final touch to the rear of the hull was to detail paint the exhaust outlets with
started to get lost under the dirt and dust. I was happy that the finish was some subtle rust tones and an application of soot stains with black-smoke
matching the reference images well. pigment powder.
Placing the separately painted details and painting DEF Model produce some superb accessories and The pattern of the netting is excellent and looks
the vision blocks with a crystal blue brought the conversions; their modern camouflage netting is perfectly in-scale. It has an elastic feel which is
Leopard close to completion. no exception. perfect for manipulating into the shape desired. A
little pigment dusted randomly across it helped
break-up the monotone appearance.
In my reference images foliage was added to the
netting, I found natural mosses replicated this very
well and the colours of course have a natural
appearance.
8
This is another excellent Leopard

from Meng and a very enjoyable
out of the box build, although we
find it difficult not to add our own
little touches, don’t we?
I’d like to thank Meng and David
Parker for allowing me to share my
latest Leopard with you.
9
FA N C Y A K O R E A C H A N G E ?
TA M I Y A’ S N E W H E A V Y H I T T E R
C O U L D B E J U S T T H E J O B ...
10
Towards the end of WWII the need for Designated T83, this replacement for the Perhaps seen as a bit of a stop-gap
heavy-hitting self-propelled artillery led to M12 SP gun (having proved to the U.S. whilst a dedicated Gun Motor Carriage
the development of the widened and hierarchy there was a need for these chassis (the M53) was developed, the
lengthened M4A3 chassis to carry the mobile weapons) was deemed worthy of M40 was deployed in the Korean War
new 155mm gun. being pressed into service in May 1945, with the huge M1A1 gun's range of over
now with a production status it was 23Km it was suited to the terrain.
referred to as M40.
MODELLED BY
MARK NEVILLE
11
BIG ‘T’S BIG SHOT- BIG KIT
In these days of instant up-to-the-minute not to the level of some manufacturers with they are too, allegedly using 3D scanning
information somehow Tamiya still manage thousand-part-kit productions that take technology. The enormous gun barrel is
a few surprises, this brand new kit (with the months to assemble, if like me you find available as a separate additional detail set
exception of HVSS suspension most pleasure in painting, a simple well complete with some turned brass rounds,
components) caught us out anyway! We engineered kit can prove just too some modellers would I'm sure expect
certainly have a nostalgic affection for the tempting…as was the case here! these included in the box for the asking
Tamiya brand here at AFV Modeller and price but another example of Tamiya doing
you have to admire their approach of very This is quite a lavish kit by Tamiya's what they've always done. Opinions will
much doing it their own way and keeping standards, by that I mean there's a small also be divided concerning the tracks, I
things just as they've always been. For me sheet of photoetch, metal chain, miniature found them good to go with only a very
personally, this equates to a kit which I nuts and bolts and brass tubing. Most faint mould seam running through the end
know will fit together with minimal fuss and notable though is the inclusion of no less connectors; fit is excellent and the overall
still have a decent level of detail; maybe than eight figures, a full crew for the M40 look is very good, the guide horns in reality
and very nicely done are hollow and aftermarket sets are
available if this niggles you. The kit allows
the option of transport mode with the rear
deck and spade folded up and the barrel
locked in place. The gun can be raised and
lowered by means of some very nice
engineering and fit of parts.
Both the lower and upper hull are

constructed from flat plates, fit is
excellent with some reassuring
‘clicks’ as you go! The perfect
butt-join allows the delicate weld
detail to stay undisturbed. Clear
parts are provided for the vision
blocks and nice photoetch grilles
I found I was left with a gap where a
are included for the radial engine
couple of the plates met in the rear
air intakes.
corner; the fit is so good I suspect it
was an error on my part but easily
filled with a styrene strip and some
Mr. Surfacer.
Ok, this is an out-of-the -box build
but I couldn’t live with the light-
guards in heavily moulded plastic; a
quick rummage in the spares box
turned up some etched parts from a
Tasca Sherman. The moulded-on
lifting handles on the hatches also
had to go, replaced with 0.4mm
brass rod.
The mighty 155mm barrel

joins well but needs some
time investing in sanding and
polishing. Tamiya have been
very creative in producing a
elevating gun. Poly-caps, tiny
bolts, brass tubing and metal
rods all combine to make a
very smooth operation
More multi-media parts with some

chain and the winch cable, probably
the most tricky part of assembly.
There’s a choice of ‘in action’ or
‘travelling’ with the rear platform and
spade posed to suit. Be aware that if
the gun isn’t elevated enough with
the breech modelled open it wont
lock into the bayonet fitting (as with
a tank kit turret). Keep the gun
movable and follow the instructions!
12
With all of the nooks and crannies of the fighting compartment I’d
decided a black base coat / primer was the way to go. A good
opportunity then to test-drive a brand new range of paint from our old We’re really impressed with these
friends at Mission Models starting with their Black Primer. acrylic paints. The pigments are very
fine and dense, using their own thinner
and flow agent the results are ultra-
smooth and very quick drying. I applied
the Olive Drab over the primer within an
hour with no problems allowing the
black to show through as a pre-shading
in shadow areas. Check our ‘Keeping
Track’ pages for more details on the
Mission Models range; highly
recommended.
Now it was time for the fun to start and ruin that beautifully smooth
base coat! For many years I’ve used Designers Gouache water-
based paint for creating dust effects. Sure there are plenty of
specific products for this on the market now but I’m familiar in how
to achieve the desired look with the gouache and it has the benefit
of being water based meaning subsequent spirit-based filters and
washes can be done immediately.
The kit provides markings for “Courageous

Confederate” and “Aita’s Ankies” but I’d
decided on generic recognition stars as I’d
found in a few photographs. The kit’s decals
were used as a guide to cut some masking
tape and the stars were airbrushed, less
AMMO’s Mud Splashes worked well stark and more to scale I feel.
in creating heavier textured areas to
add to the layering of the dirt I could
see in my reference images. Load a A good quality set of gouache basic
paintbrush with the liquid and blast colours will last a modeller years; you
some air though it; simple and can keep returning to a dry pallet with
effective with a subtle texture. water to use it agin and again.
With the dust and dirt complete it was time to think about some washes to lift
the detail out and add staining as I’ve started here on the gun trunnion parts.
13
DETAIL PAINTING AND WEATHERING
Gun and Fighting Compartment I paid close attention to

the different moving and static elements of the gun and cradle with
On Vehicle Equipment tool handles various materials receiving different tones and textures. The barrel was
were undercoated in Vallejo Beige with neat polished with my finger to a slight sheen, Yellow Ochre oil paint was
Burnt Umber oil colour ‘dragged’ over to blended to indicate staining of lubricants on moving parts and paint which
create the effect of wood grain. Kit supplied has been scuffed and worn was replicated by Vallejo Camo Black-Brown,
nylon thread was used for the tow cables, in lightly tapped on the surface with a tiny piece of sponge held with
hindsight I would replace these with copper tweezers. The ingrained dirt around the floor is pigment powder and oil
aftermarket items. 2.5mm light lenses from paint washes.
Little Cars add a little sparkle of realism. Fuel
spills are from oil washes and AK Interactive
The chrome of the exposed
Streaking Grime. A touch of pigment powder
equilibrators was done with a strip
was added to the edges where the wet fuel
of Bare Metal Foil (Bright Chrome).
has attracted dust before evaporating. The
M40 was powered by a Continental radial
engine, mid-mounted.
The depth of the finish is due to the

multiple layers of the dust effects
harmonized with some subtly tinted filters.
Localised pin-washes add depth to the
detail.
Note the driver’s preferred access route

has left dust buffed away and paint
Wheels and Tracks washes of Burnt Umber oil colour to bring out details
and washes of light dust colours. Tyres picked out in diluted dark grey acrylic with
damaged.
the contact surface painted a darker tone. Inner contact surface of tracks picked
out in tones of dark grey and guide-horns buffed with Lifecolor Reflecting Agent.
14
THE CREW
“I’m no figure painter...” often quoted by armour
modellers, and myself included, but there’s no
doubt figures always improve the presentation
of a vehicle model. Not only do figures add a
sense of scale but will also give historical
content and (perhaps) tell a story of a moment
in time. Tamiya have been brave in tackling the
full eight-man crew of the M40 and I felt it
would be rude not to use them all.
Airbrushing some
‘directional light’
gives a good basis
for shadows and
highlights.
The figures are very well actually similar to late WWII

rendered, especially German versions, a little
considering the limitations of reshaping here and there and
injection moulded plastic, with adjustment of the peaks and
realistic anatomy and they were good to go. Suitable
convincing uniforms. One bare-heads were given hair
feature I wasn’t too keen on with soft putty and posed to
were the heads with helmets interact with each other. Eight
worn by all eight figures. Many figures was going to require
of the photographs I was some sort of a production line
flicking through of artillery in approach so I decided to try a
action from the Korean War technique of undercoating in
showed crews sporting caps or black and airbrushing a ‘light
a complete lack of headgear. I source’ to start and create
decided to turn to the old some strong contrasting
favourites; Hornet heads. Much shadows and highlights. Over
has changed in our hobby over this I applied multiple coats of
the last couple of decades but quite dilute acrylic colours
these heads, in my opinion, which allows subtle shifts of
have never been bettered green tones which I’d observed
adding such character and in the period colour images
emotion in 1:35. The U.S. field and gives the faded and dusty
caps of the period have a appearance.
particular look which are
Using acrylics for the flesh tones also

speeds up the work, with quick drying
times I found myself working on several
figures at any one time. The sharp detail
of the Hornet heads allows tiny washes of
colour to pick out detail around the eyes
without the labour of lining-in eye lids or
trying to paint eyeballs!
15
The groundwork couldn’t be simpler. A piece of polystyrene

was cut to a suitable size with a few undulations pressed into the
surface. Something as heavy as the M40 would really dig itself
into the terrain, especially with the recoil of the gun, so I cut a
couple of furrows where the tracks would sit. The rear spade
would obviously cut into the earth so another slot was made to
accommodate this.
16
With the crew in shirt sleeves I was restricted to the The Tamiya M40 certainly makes for an
gun in action in warmer, summer weather. A search impressive display with the crew figures. Some
through period colour photographs showed much of modellers may want to push the detail further
the Korean countryside quite dry and arid with a light, with the barrel and ammunition set from Tamiya,
stoney earth and dry foliage. I gave some of the new maybe some aftermarket tracks and the
AK Interactive Diorama range a test drive with their inevitable aftermarket photoetch which is going
‘Dry Ground’ effect, a textured acrylic with a good to make for a very expensive project.
colour match. The textured paste brushes easily and
was given more body (for areas of disturbed earth)
with fine grit. The M40 was set into the paste whilst
still wet, drying time was around an hour after which
the foliage was added using more of the AK paste as
adhesive. I keep a box of natural moss, fine roots and I’m pretty
hemp rope which were ideal for this vignette. satisfied with
Some shading and highlighting with pigment powders the results with only
helped with the dusty appearance of the earth the few tweaks I’ve
and the final touches of the charge canisters made, another
and ammunition were added. enjoyable build
from Tamiya.
17
Manuel Reinher models a Flammhetzer in 1:48
Much has been written about the Tamiya 1:48 kits and the Hetzer is by far the easiest kit I
have ever built. My time at my work bench is very limited but the kit allowed a relaxing build
within a few sessions. As I was always fascinated by the fearsome and diabolic power of
flametanks I decided to use the nice conversion set from Hauler to create this special Hetzer
version.
The designated Flammhetzer 38 were ordered in November 1944 for the operation
“Nordwind” and were organized in Flamm-Kompanies. Some 20 vehicles were converted
and saw action against enemy strongholds in the last big offensive on the western front.
Construction
Beside the conversion set from Hauler I also used the standard Hetzer PE set from the same
company. Fit of the parts was excellent and within a few evenings you are able to finalize the
construction phase. Tamiya putty thinned with their extra thin glue was used to improve the
surface texture of the vehicle. Therefore I used an old brush an added the mix to the surface
in stippled motion. During the construction I also replaced all the plastic handles with 0.2 mm
wire and the putty mix also served as a filler around these details.
To add some individual touches to the model a small tarp was sculpted using green stuff
putty. Additionally I used0.05 mm wire to create the remains of the camouflage wire which
was used to attach foliage to the vehicle. The allied held air supremacy during this stage of
the war and Germans tried to hide their equipment whenever possible and so I thought this
detail would match perfectly to the setting of this tank.
20
The final build showing the extra texture created using putty and glue For some further detail a small tarp was sculpted using green stuff
21
The mixed base colors. The not shown dark yellow was used The first layers of brown and dark yellow were
straight from the jar and the green base color applied. added.
The stencils were created using Tamiya tape The markings were sprayed using Tamiya acrylics
A first pin wash was applied to enhance the overall look and feel. The fading of the base colors starts
Base colours: colour and store it in spare jars. This turn moment of the build there was no
The winter 1945 was very cold; the muddy out as very helpful for later touch-ups. aftermarket product for the markings
terrain had frozen to a solid surface. Before starting the work on the base available, so I had to come up with my
Therefore I wanted to show a tank with dry colours I applied primer straight from the own solution. I took a side view picture of a
mud and some snow effects. can. This will unify all different used Flammhetzer from the internet. Using an
This vehicle was my first subject with hard materials and help you to spot any image editing program I constructed the
edged camouflage and after seeing Sven imperfections. Once the primer was dry I dimensions of the markings by reference
Frisch’s results with his brush painted started to airbrush my base green colour points on the picture, scaled it and printed
Hetzer I decided to give it a try as well. For to the whole model. it on paper. Tamiya masking tape was
the base colour I used Lifecolor products Next the camouflage pattern was sketched used to create a stencil, and the printed
because they work fine in my airbrush and with a pencil and then carefully painted paper provided me with the guides to cut
perform also very well used with a brush. with highly diluted colours using several the mask.
The green is a mix of RAL 7016 layers to build up the density. After 3-4 Once the masks were applied I sprayed
Anthrazitgrau, 4BO Russian Dark Green applications I was satisfied with the result, the markings using Tamiya acrylics and
and UA 077 German Fieldgrey. The Brown and overall I can really recommend using after this I did some final touch ups using a
a mix of RAL 8012 Rotbraun and RAL 7028 the good old brush for tasks like this. paint brush. Next all the details and the
Dunkelgelb. For the dark yellow I simply To unify the whole work I applied several tracks received their base colours. I think
22 used UA 090 Sand straight from the jar. light layers of stain varnish. Now it was it’s important to block out all main colours
You should always prepare some more time to create the markings. At the as early as possible to get a better
The tank after the fading and speckling The first whitewash effects were applied. Up to 3 layers will follow.
The remains of the worn winter camouflage. Between the whitewash applications some filters and streaks were applied
understanding about the overall wasn’t satisfied with the overall look and so streaks using enamels from Humbrol. In
appearance of your model. I decided to grab my wife’s hairspray and between I also painted the exhaust parts
start the compressor. using paints from the excellent Dust and
The White Wash The faded whitewash was done using the Rust set from Lifecolor. The colour was
After a pin wash using Humbrol 170 Brown Hairspray Technique. This is a well simply dabbed onto the parts with a
Bess and Black oil colour from Mig I still documented technique, I just want to add sponge, starting with lighter and ending
wasn’t sure if I should add a whitewash to that I like to repeat the process to get with darker tones. Once I was satisfied with
the vehicle or not. That’s why I started with some finer effects. Therefore I did up to 3 the overall appearance I switched once
the fading of camouflage colours using applications of hairspray and Tamiya White more to oils and Humbrol, increasing
oils. Small dots were applied and the thinned with water. Painting models contrast with another pin wash and filters
colours were worked into the surface using doesn’t follow clear rules in my case. I like to enrich the surface. Oils were also used
an almost dry brush. After this I added to try out things, look at the result and to improve the look of the exhaust parts.
some speckles with thinned colours using decide how to proceed throughout the Therefore I used the powerful Lasur-Oxid
an old toothbrush and added some first painting stage. colours from Schmincke Light to add
chippings using Humbrol colours. Now the Between the hairspray applications I glazes and rust streaks.
whole thing started to come alive, but I still started to add some filters and whitewash
23
The base painted exhaust The hairspray whitewash application is done. Now it’s time for some brush
work
The look of the whitewash was improved using a wash and further filters Lasur-Oxid oil colors were used to create rust effects on the muffler
The excellent range of metal paints from Games Workshop were used to The mix for the dry mud consists of pigments fixed with thinner
create metallic effects
24
To get some variation, mud in different tones was applied as splatters The snow effects were created using textured paint.
Polished metal was created using Boltgun Metal. The smallest wire I could
find was used to create the camouflage fixation
A pencil was used to create metallic edges
Pigments and Snow diorama texture paint. The powder snow some of the exposed edges.
After a quick dry brushing pass with effect mix was thinned with water to get The last details to be added to this model
Boltgun Metal from the Games Workshop the right consistency and applied using a were two helmets and the camouflage
range it was time to add some dirt. brush. wire. The 0.05 wire was the finest I could
The mud is a mix of Mig pigments fixed find. It was painted using once more the
with thinner. For some colour variation I Details and metal effects Dust and Rust set and applied using
mixed Earth effects enamel colour from AK Now it was time to add the side skirts of superglue. As the loops are just simplified
with pigments and applied them using a this little tank. To add some visual interest I on this model I had to work from section to
toothpick and a brush. Wet and oil effects decided to show one part of the section carefully cutting the wire to the
were created using gloss varnish and oils. “Schürzen” in primer red. As base colour I required length.
To finalize the mud work some spots used Vallejo 70814 Burnt Cad Red and
received a pin wash of Tamiya smoke to weathered it in the same manner as the
create the look of fresh oil. rest of vehicle. Mainly the tracks and road The small Tamiya kits are a real joy to build
As for the snow I did several tests to find a wheels received some bare metal effects and even out of the box they have a lot of
satisfactory solution. I had difficulties using the excellent metallic range from potential. So if you are looking for a small
creating satisfying results with snow Games Workshop. For the rest of the tank I project in-between or if you want to start
powders and ended up with using Tamiya used a pencil and rubbed graphite on our hobby I think they fit perfectly.
25
Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Part Eleven
In part eleven we return to unfinished business in the engine bay easy design to replicate and so we decided to use 3D printing
and tackle a replacement engine to bring it up to the standards of technology to achieve the best results and combine these with
the rest of the model. The Maybach engine is by no means an more traditional techniques.
This is the Maybach HL 120 TRM engine that the kit provides. I don’t think you a useful basis for adding detail to. Given the complexity of the engine I turned
need to be an expert on the engine to see that this model is a vague to the possibilities of 3D printing to make an accurate replacement engine
representation and a more in depth examination shows that the cylinder and also to manufacture an engine kit for other modellers who want an
heads are not offset as they should be and are also angled incorrectly accurate engine for their mls.
meaning that even the basic shape of the engine is wrong so that is not even
Professional CAD draughtsman Don Campbell took on the challenge of different images for the ancilliary parts and other details. We were particularly
designing the new engine working from a useful set of plans drawn up by pleased to see the Solex logos on the carburetors and the Maybach logos on
French engineers which provided key dimensions and an assortment of the oil filler caps.
The CAD design was split into parts and printed on a

26 high quality 3D printer and here the parts are seen as This shows the main components as
they came off the printer. We made copies of these resin copies ready to be detailed.
parts in resin as it is easier to work with and allowed us
to duplicate parts if required.
The first job was to apply a subtle cast texture to the main components. I also fitted pins and dirlled holes in the engine block to allow the cylinder heads
This was simply done by roughly brushing on a coat of Mr Surfacer 1200. to be quickly and easily aligned.
The exhaust manifolds were a huge improvement over the plain tube provided The oil tank was provided with a locator pin and the filler tube was
with the kit engine but I adjusted the profile to be more rounded where each constructed. The fine lip around the tank was damaged on my resin copy so I
pipe blended into the main tube. I also added a textured finish and the used the original orange 3D printed version instead.
numerous bolts and clamps which fix the manifold to the cylinder heads.
I added the central coupling plate in the centre of the flywheel to which a At the opposite end of the engine I thickened up the engine mounting frame
universal joint will connect the drive shaft. and added pin and hole locations for it and the pulley assembly. I added
casting numbers to the engine block.
2 3 4
27
The Distributor and Magneto 1 have location pins added whereas the Water Here work has started on the three Oil Filter Covers at the base of the engine
Pump and its pulley wheel 2 sit into a shaped cradle. block. The Inertia starter 3 and Oil Cooler 4 above are test fitted to make sure
the Oil Filters will fit beneath them.
6
5
The completed pair of oil filter covers and the Oil cooler 5 with the tensioners The Inertia Starter needed mounting brackets as well as some other
for the mounting straps and the hose connector 6 added. additional details and it slides snuggly into position.
The Inertia Starter also connects up to the toothed ring on the flywheel. On the opposite side of the block the Electric Starter also need a set of
mounting brackets.
I had to construct the pair of rear engine mount brackets using some brass tube resin and glued in place but I need something strong to take the weight of the
for the shaft which carries the engine block. These will eventually be cast in block while testing the fit of the engine.
With the brackets complete I was able to test fit the engine into the engine bay hull roof. The benefits of having a removable rear plate start to become
28 to be sure it fits! Despite the kit having a double floor which makes for an apparent at this stage for checking alignment and ease of access.
overscale floor thickness everything lined up well and the engine did not foul the
I had been putting off work on the Dynamo because of its awkward fixings to arrangement on the top of the dynamo. I also removed one of the rings from
the engine block. I used a pair of plastic pins to join it to the block in such a the pulley belt wheel, leaving just a single wheel.
way that the pins are hidden. I was then able to construct the tensioning
The fixings for the air filter trunking

were added using the remodelled
oil filler caps from the kit engine.
Lead wire was used to add the Time for one last dry fit of everything using Blu Tac to hold
lifting loop on the engine block. everything together. Once the photos were complete the
parts were all individually primed and any imperfections
cleaned up in preparation for casting
Quite a handful!
The first fully assembled test casting of the new
Maybach engine looking quite spectacular, complete
with flexible resin fan belt!
29
The kit engine mounts are not completely accurate so I made a new set of the I used 3mm blocks on the hull floor to raise the engine block to the correct
non-identical mounts. I used a slightly thicker plastic than scale thickness to position above the hull floor and this allowed me to check positions withount the
carry the weight of the resin engine. need to establish the other rear engine mounts yet.
I began to add some of the various pipe details to Here the pipework around the oil cooler is added using plastic rod. I drilled location holes in the resin parts to
the engine block in preparation for connecting the accept the plastic rods.
engine to the cooling system.
30 With a correctly sized engine I was able to consider construction of the air filter The overhanging lips from the construction of the box were trimmed away and
system for the engine. The overall shape of the filter box was established and a the surfaces were sanded. I used trimmed down U shaped profile to glue the
quick test fit confirmed it was on the right track. lipped channel around the top of the filter box.
The project continues in the next Issue

Panzerkampfwagen
Correction Parts
1:16
Maybach HL 120 TRM Engine

Fully detailed replacement power unit to fit all Trumpeter 1:16 Panzer IV kits
36 resin parts with detailed assembly instructions and presentation case £90.00
Price includes costs for tracked / signed for delivery for UK and EU countries.
31
32
34
MODELLED BY OSCAR EBRÍ • FIGURES BY JOSE MARIA ILLA
It is something curious how a simple picture can inspire us, and

as many modellers that was what happened to me during
pleasant Sunday night. I spotted on the browser a Challenger II on
the top of a little mound with all his suspensions going up and
down and I just thought how cool it was. I ended up setting my
next project in about 30 seconds.
When thinking about the project I was tempted to build a more

modern Challenger with enhanced armour, but eventually I
decided to stick to the initial idea of the KFOR units. The “old”
Trumpeter kit (ref.00308) was the chosen to do this project. After
a first release with several mistakes and lack of detail, Trumpeter
revised the kit fixing some things. I added two photoetched sets
from Eduard ref.35733 and ref.TP070 and the workable tracks
from Hobbyboss ref. AB3523.
35
1 2
I knew for the very first moment it was soft detail here and there, on the other really poor (pic 2). I then moved to the
going to be a tough kit, and to be honest, hand, the anti-skid surface is quite well back part, which is very busy and took me
during the assembly I asked myself several represented. It’s important to mention that several hours. I decided to remove one of
times why I didn’t choose Tamiya’s Trumpeter made some corrections to the the fuel drums and damage the other, as
Challenger. Perhaps it is not as difficult as original kit but Eduard didn’t. The grilles on well as making a bundle of tarpaulins with
those resin kits that people used to suffer the engine deck were far too large in the a waving effect because of the speed. That
and love with the same intensity when I corrected kit, so I had to buy another PE helped me to individualise the model and
was starting my first model back in 2005. set from Eduard (ref.TP070) to fix that give a little extra sensation of movement.
The first thing noted was that there are problem. Apart from that, the wheels and
many ejector marks on almost every part Starting with the chassis, plastic styrene suspensions were glued as the tanks was
of the kit. As I advanced through the and putty is needed to fill the gaps within rolling over a little mound. The kit didn’t
assembly I found some simplification and the upper and the lower parts as the fit is have a workable suspensions so I had to
3 4 5
36
trim down the plastic parts that lock the fender, so I needed to thin down part of the bond, making it easy to manipulate without
position in order to articulate the wheels to piece taking care not to mess it up. breaking it apart. This was especially
the shape of the ground. The kit needs (SMChally_Build4) Then I cut the fenders useful for the front mudflaps and the lids of
several minor plastic corrections to that I wanted to remove, a glued a strip of the stowage bins. The work on the chassis
accommodate the photoetched parts that styrene to simulate that thin sheet. It’s basically consists of filling gaps and gluing
obviously doesn’t improve the whole build necessary to dig a hole in the upper part of all the little pieces and handles. The turret
experience (Pic 1). Another big problem each screw that supports the fenders. As it’s by far the most problematic part of the
were the skirts. They are really poor in the kit wasn’t thought to represent the kit. It’s important to test fit all the pieces
detail and I needed an extra effort to finish model without fenders, I needed to add before fixing because there are some
them. Firstly, they are too thick, so I had to the supports for the screws of the fenders serious gaps between them which have to
sand down all of them. In addition, the skirt (Pics 4&5). be corrected. (Pic 3)
itself is fitted higher than the thin sheet I used soldering whenever possible to deal
that covers the gap between chassis and with the photoetched as I get a strong
37
Painting shadow I used several references of the applying little dots of paint and blending
From the very first moment, I knew I modulation set 4BO Russian Green (AK them with a brush soaked in white spirit.
wanted a very subtle colour modulation 028). (Pic 6&7) After that, I followed the (Pic 9) Remember to apply the brighter
with the airbrush work and then, building work with the brush by highlighting the tones in the brightest parts of the base and
up the major parts of the contrast by details. At this point, I wanted to make the same goes for the dark tones. Here the
highlighting the details. This time I wanted contrast between the base and the choice of palette is individual to the
to play with a muted palette on the surface different details, so I used brighter and modeller, but for example to enhance the
and with a more vivid colours on the more saturated tones. It’s important to dark parts of each panel and to add
details. work in thin layers so we can achieve a shadows I used blue and sienna oils, this
I started spraying the green colour over the smooth finish. time not using dots but by depositing a
surface and working it with two lights and larger amount of oil paint. Ochre and light
two shadows. Then, after masking the Base: Oils grey can be used to enhance highlights
model with “bluetack” I repeated the same In this stage, oil paints were used to unify too and to make effects of heavy
procedure with the black. The two tones, to create depth effects, weathered weathered paint especially around
references used to paint the camo were paint and to give chromatic richness in hatches.
the NATO Green (AK 796) and NATO Black general. The classic "dot" technique was
(AK 735) from AK. For the highlights and used all over the surfaces. It consists of
6 7
8
38
Chipping Earth”(AK-4063) you can also do so by 078) were used to represent wet effects
It’s important to practise at least 20 spraying a light dust enamel colour. (Pic and to give more contrast
minutes before you start painting the 12) At this point you can use white spirit to
model, so you can get used to it and remove some of the product, (Pic 13)and For the tracks I used a mixture of “Khaki
correct your technique. Chipping is always you can repeat spraying other earth tones. Drab” (XF-51) and “Dark Yellow” (XF-60)
a tedious stage at any model, but when After that, several pigments like “Light (Pic 17). Then I made splashes of heavily
well done it gives to a model a very Dust” (AK-040), “Dark Earth” (AK-081) and thinned acrylics (Pic 18), and after that I
realistic look. I started by representing the “European Earth” (AK-042) were applied used graphite to represent the polished
superficial scratches and chips with a mix and fixed with pigment fixer (pic 14). Once steel zones (Pic 19). To finish I painted the
of NATO Green (AK 796) and Buff (70.976) I have all the work with pigments dried, I rubber parts with a mixture of “Black”
for the green and NATO Black (AK 735) normally like to make some splashes with (70950) and “German Cam. Black Brown”
plus some White (70.993) for the black. heavily diluted enamel earth tones. That (70.822) and I applied some pigments to
Then I moved to the second round of helps to blend the tones a little, although integrate the tracks (Pic 20).
chipping with Chipping Colour (AK 711) for you might take care of not overdo them so Dust, and final Effects
the deepest chips. Using an acrylic we preserve some of the contrast To represent dust over the chassis, I used
retarder and having ready a brush soaked achieved with the pigments. mostly “Brown Earth” (AK 4063) and “Light
with water, gives you time to correct any I sprayed a light coat of enamel earth Dust” (AK 4062). I used a damp brush with
mistakes tones on the wheels, and after letting it dry the product and I deposited it on the
a few minutes I removed some of that corners, surfaces and places where it is
Running Gear coat with a brush and White Spirit (Pic 15). logical to find dust and earth After some
To represent the dust, earth and mud of Some earth tone pigments were applied time I blended all these random shapes
the of the lower part of the chassis I and fixed with pigment fixer (Pic 16). “Wet using a brush and turpentine. When dry
started by spraying a thin layer of “Brown Effects” (AK-079) and “Damp Earth” (AK- the product it brighten a little giving a
9 10
11
12 13 14
39
15 16 17
18 19 20
21
22
realistic look. To represent the same effect very little spots of water over a surface recreate the grime effect of the fuel mixed
you can use pigments fixed with white (remove the bigger spots with a brush) and with the dust. Grease and fuel effects were
spirit. You can repeat as many times as then spray a small quantity of enamel recreated in several places (Pic 22).
necessary, and then retouch it with earth tones with a low air pressure on it.
pigments of different tones applied in small The water acts like a mask giving the Moss and Camouflage Net
amounts with a small brush. On the effect of a light rain over a dusty surface. The last things I added to the model were
fenders, rather than applying the paint with (Pic 21) all the moss on the front part and the
a brush, I prefer working with the airbrush. To finish the effects I used Sienna oil to Barracuda camo net. After considering
After spraying some of enamel earth represent humidity and damp zones. I some options I decided that actual moss
tones, I removed some of the paint with worked with three mixtures one of them it was the best way to recreate the
White Spirit and I made some marks with almost had no white spirit, 50/50, and vegetation usually used by British forces. I
the rear part of a brush. heavily diluted. First I damped the surface selected pieces of the moss in sections
with some white spirit, then I applied the and then I glued them to the model using
On the rear deck, I used the Pere’s Pla’s mixtures starting from the most diluted to white glue (Pic 23) . After that, enamel
technique “Rain-over-Dust” to recreate this the thicker one. I also applied “Fuel Stains” paints and pigments were used to
effect. Actually, it’s quite simple to get it (AK-025) around the fuel caps. Normally I integrate the moss. As for the camo net, I
done, but you might want to practise a like to add a little amount of a dark earth used a fantastic aftermarket set from
little bit first. It simply consisst of splashing pigment over the wet surface in order to Eduard that comes already pre-painted. I
40
23 24
used Dust&Deposits to recreate dust and as the vehicle would have been moving.
then I glued it onto the model using ciano After trying several options I decided to
and lots of patience (Pic 24). leave the commander pointing out
something to the loader. Once the position
Figures
When Oscar asked me to get involved in
was fixed I attached the hands, also from
Hornet, and I shaped the body parts using
25
his Project I didn’t hesitate for a second. Milliput clay (yellow-grey). At this point of
My figures couldn’t have a better backdrop the modelling I wasn’t concerned about
than his Challenger II. The initial plan was the details, I only wanted to shape the
for me to paint a commercial figure but muscular structure which I would then use
after checking the market we found out to dress the figures (Pic 25). The final stage
that it is very difficult, almost impossible, to was dressing the figures, adding all the
find modern British crew, wearing the details such as belts, buckles, buttons, etc.
regular Kosovo uniform from the Balkans I used a mixture of Milliput 75% and
war in 1999. I decided therefore to model Kneadatite 25% for some of the details and
the figures from scratch. The uniform to the vests, as this is a stickier mixture that
recreate was the British standard with the allows working better on small details
DPM model 95 pattern. After checking
photographs of the conflict, I also decided
taking longer to dry. (Pic 26&27)
26
to recreate the flak vest as it is rare to see Painting
British crewmen without it when in service. This was the first time I painted this
I began with a base made of wire to which

camouflage scheme. It proved difficult as
there is a vast number of patterns
27
I attached, with a bit of kneadatite, the depending on the period they were made
pelvis and chest, and I added a and colors can widely vary. Once I found
commercial hornet head. Using this base I the appropriate tones (see coluors table), I
created the posture I liked on a dummy airbrushed a black primer and a first coat
model. I looked for a neutral position that, with a slightly darkened lighter colour. I
at the same time would convey the scene added a shadow with the airbrush and,
41
then, I drew the patches. I did the lighter which would be quite normal given the Green:
patches first, moving on to the darker ones vest was not as commonly used. Finally I Base: military green (70.975) 80% + sunny
in sequence. applied very diluted Burnt Umber under the skin-tone (70.845) 10% + olive green
I added basic skin-tone 815 or Iraqi sand folds on the clothes to simulate shade. (If (70.967) 10%
819 to the patches base colours, to paint not indicated, the colors used are from Highlights: base + basic skin-tone (70.815)
the shirt and trousers and I only used the Vallejo Model colour) Brown:
bone-white reference of Vallejo Model Base: burnt umber (70.941) 70% + flat
colour for the light colour. This made the Figure Colour table brown (70.984) 25%
clothes appear to be more Lightest colour: Highlights: base + bone-white (Vallejo
worn than the Base: desert yellow (70.977) 50% + bone- game colour 34)
vest, white (Vallejo game colour) 50% Black:
Highlights: base + (Vallejo game colour 34) Base: German grey (70.995)
Highlights: base + bone-white (Vallejo
game colour 34)
Thanks
I’d like to thank all the people who helped
me during this project and three in
particular. Firstly, Peter Robinson. Peter
was Squadron Sergeant Major and
commanded a Chieftain and a Challenger I
on several campaigns (Gulf-Bosnia-
Kosovo), Peter is also a good modeller. He
selflessly offered me help through the
process. I also want to thanks both Sara
for his support and patience and Jose
Maria for agreeing to collaborate without
even knowing me. Making new friends is
42 one of the greatest rewards of this hobby.
Terrain
28 29 I started the base with a five part wooden
case. I filled it with expanded polystyrene
using a cutter to make the shape of a little
mound. I used modelling clay to cover the
case and before it had dried, I fitted the
model to make sure it fits the shape of the
surface (Pic 28). To paint the flag I mostly
used masking tape and a template I made
myself with Photoshop. Red was a mixture
of Vallejo “Carmine Red” (70.908) and
“Lemon Yellow” (70.952) for the red and
“Prussian Blue” (70.965) for the blue. I also
sprayed an acrylic earth tone on the top of
30 31 it (Pic 29).
Real earth and “Gravel and Sand Fixer”

(AK 118) were used to represent the
ground (Pic 30). It’s super easy to use it,
as you only need to deposit the earth over
the surface and dampen it with a brush or
a pipette. I used more fixer to add stones.
Then several mixes of enamel earth tones
were applied in order to recreate darker
32 33 and brighter zones and add richness (Pic
31). Little bushes were made using
Woodland Scenics grass that I cut and
glued myself (Pic 32). Both Woodland
scenics and miniNature (silhouette 717-
24S) were glued to the ground using white
glue (Pic33).
43
new releases
KEEPING TRACK
Meng 1:35 King Tiger

It has been a rare privilege to have participated in the design of types of mantlet included and two patterns of exhaust cover. The
this new Meng King Tiger and you may therefore presume that snorkel port on the engine deck has both covers provided along
any review of the kit will be tainted but I can assure you that this with two patterns of front ventilator domes. The late gun sight rain
kit very much speaks for itself. This complete kit is to be followed guard is already moulded onto the front of the turret should you
by a full interior which you can add and a separate set of working wish to model a late production vehicle. It is only when you start
tracks and suspension which offers a welcome choice without to assemble it that you can appreciate the cleverness and
impacting adversely the cost of the base kit which many will precision with exact interlocking panels meaning that all the weld
appreciate. This kit offers a fixed suspension set up which can beads are already in place. The hull and turret roof are both
easily be made to articulate and a link and length track which will moulded separately allowing your interior to be displayed if you
not work with articulated suspension if thats what you want. There choose to add it and the precision fit of the hull roof is quite
is no missing the red oxide plastic but more important is the remarkable. The turret roof requires some very slight sanding to
excellent subtle rolled texture that has been applied to the armour allow it to slot into the double skinned turret shell. For those
across the kit. Similarly the weld bead detail is first rate and this is building sans interior there is a clever plug in frame to hold the
the first 1:35 King Tiger to have all the correct welds on the hull separate engine deck panels. All the turret hatches are moulded
roof plate. The kit offers a choice of plastic and turned aluminium separately including the shell ejector port and a complete anti-
gun barrels, both using the same plastic muzzle brake. The aircraft MG mount is also included. Negatives? There are one or
aluminium barrel lacks the four holes around the locking ring but two. The shape of the stepped pattern mantlet is not quite right
they can be drilled into the ring using the plastic version as a but can be corrected, the mounts for the side skirts have an
guide. There is a photoetched fret with a full set of engine deck angled lower edge which must be shaved off. They have oval
screens, the gas indicator mount plates and three ammo sack holes and the rearmost single skirt mount is missing. Markings are
lids. Clear moulded periscopes are supplied and the kit comes provided for a choice of four vehicles. Also available is a separate
with a pair of crew figures. These are rather disappointing with set of zimmerit decals which offer a pre-shaped 3D printed decal
44 soft details in areas like the hands. The kit depicts what is a mid for a very quick and easy solution which also looks very
production vehicle with bolted cupola and jack carried, but comes convincing. Purists will want to do their own but if this is too
with various options to allow more flexibility. There are the two daunting this offers a reasonable alternative.
Zvezda T-14 'Armata' Russian MBT

Not the first out of the blocks with a kit of this fearsome looking (weighing in at around half the price of the Takom kit) we've a very
futuristic main battle tank but you would like to think as a proud no-frills production, forget the photoetch and fancy turned barrels
Russian manufacturer that Zvezda will have done their homework although thankfully the link and length track looks very nice,
on the details of this vehicle as it comes into service boasting an bearing in mind also that very little track is visible. The rear slat
unmanned turret and all of the latest technology. Takom's recently armour will certainly get attention from the photoetched fiends but
released T-14 has had criticism for the lack of features on the generally many modellers will be pleased with the levels of detail
lower hull but it looks as if Zvezda have had full cooperation from straight from the box. A quick dry fit of the enormous hull top
Ural Vagon Zavod in the production of this kit. Common with promises a good fit, if this is a reflection of the rest of the kit 45
Zvezda's new toolings, this looks a very cleanly and finely moulded Zvezda have a winner on their hands; a really nice looking kit
set of sprues with some very nice details. With economy in mind especially when you take the cost into consideration.
Takom 1:35 G6 Rhino S.P. Howitzer

This unique South African National Defence Force Self Propelled the hull is constructed from flat panels offering nice detail with
Howitzer was developed out of necessity with a UN trade some excellent features such as the slats of the air intakes. The
embargo enforced in the late 1970s, taking an existing 155mm giant turret is also worthy of note, a really impressive piece of
towed gun and developing a wheeled chassis (wheels favoured moulding although we’ll have to make-do with an ‘old school’ style
over tracks due to ease of repair from mine damage) this beast of two part gun barrel. A nice photoetch fret covers the essential
has been in service since the 1980s with the SADF (seeing grilles and the tyres (about the height of a 1:35 figure!) are superb,
combat in the Angolan Civil War) and exported to Oman and the amongst the best we’ve seen moulded in vinyl with delicate side-
UAE. This is a big old box from Takom but we were pleasantly wall detail and no flash to remove; a definite bug-bear normally
surprised at the relatively simple construction for what appears a with this material. A couple of SADF markings offer a single colour
complicated vehicle. The only interior detail offered is the driver’s finish of hard edged three-tone pattern. A nice kit of a unique
central position (obviously helping with the simple assembly) and subject, our thanks to Takom for our sample kits.
Revell 1:72 T-55 A/AM

Many modellers of more modern armour in 1:72 will no doubt the upper run already mouded-in. The turret looks a good shape
welcome this new-tooled kit from Revell of one of the most widely and has separate roof inserts for the optional hatch arrangements,
used armoured vehicles ever, the T-55. Really long overdue from a other options are the main gun and stowage boxes to suit either
mainstream kit manufacturer as a new tooling this should prove the A or AM versions. The rear engine deck too is offered as
very popular with the plethora of versions and conversions optional inserts and no doubt some aftermarket photoetch
possible. First impressions of the moulding is excellent with some wouldn't go amiss here. A really good solid little kit from Revell
very fine detail, all clean and sharp with ejector pin marks which is sure to be a hit. Revell model kits are available from all
confined to hidden areas. The hull bottom and sides are separate good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
46 ensuring good detail with the road-wheels and sprockets very www.revell.de/en
nicely done. Tracks are in a link and length style with the 'sag' of
Kinetic 1:35 RG31 Mk.5
Kinetic have followed up their previous releases of Mk.3 RG31s we look guaranteed of high levels of detail straight out of the box,
with the Mk.5 version, a larger vehicle altogether but sharing there’s a few knock-out pin marks here and there that could be
running-gear components. Visually this version certainly has more visible especially if you take the option of opening all of the doors
appeal as a modelling subject with it’s large roof turret nest (with and hatches, the interior is nicely done and this version includes
optional .50 Cal or grenade launcher) and large boom arm which decals for the dashboard. Tyres are moulded in vinyl and free from
can be posed as you wish. Popping the lid reveals a good heap of any mould seams or sprue gates, a nice matt finish and
sprues which are this time moulded in grey with a few clear convincing ripple-effect to the side wall will make these perfectly
sprues providing the armoured glass (this will have to be tinted to useable to many modellers. Markings for the U.S. version are
be entirely accurate). A small photoetched fret is welcome and minimal to say the least but there’s some good options available
even an EOD figure is included; all of this adds up to over 500 as the use of this Mk.5 vehicle spreads Worldwide including
parts which tells you this is a kit for more experienced builders. United Arab Emirates and Spain. A very nice kit again from Kinetic
Moulding looks very nice throughout and with the high parts count and a unique subject.
Dragon 15cm s.IG.33/2 (Sf) Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer

Dragon are producing a couple of bergepanzer 38(t) based included, tracks are provided in a link-and-length style which look
vehicles, one mounting a FlaK 38 and this one mounting the s.I.G. like they could prove to take some time to clean up from the
infantry support gun. Only a handful of these vehicles were sprues but the detail is good. Good interior and gun cradle detail
converted intended to replace the Grille so information seems a is provided along with ammo storage and the correct pattern idler
little sketchy with only factory period photos available to our sprocket. Some cutting of the front glacis is required specific to
knowledge. Dragon have produced their usual ‘mash-up’ of mounting the gun but the section is moulded as a line internally so
available sprues along with parts unique to the version, all this shouldn’t prove too taxing. This is an interesting little S.P. gun 47
moulded to their usual high standards with some very fine detail which should prove popular with late-war German fans.
on show. A small photoetched fret and nice aluminium barrel are
By any reasonable standards this is a these images in what is a beautifully printed

To The Gates of Moscow massively spectacular and beautifully book. Alongside the images we have a very
with the Third Panzer produced new book from the team at detailed day by day examination of the combat
Division Luftfahrtverlag Start which presents a quite diary of the unit which traces the advance into
Axel Urbanke, Dr. Hermann Türk spectacular collection of previously unseen Russia in some detail supported by numerous
Published by Luftfahrtverlag-Start wartime images photographed by Dr. Hermann map diagrams showing the different incidents.
Hardback, 568 pages, German and Türk. He was a medical officer serving with the Unfortunately the maps are only annotated in
English text 3rd Panzer Division and the book presents his German but this is the sole issue I could find.
ISBN 9783941437296 personal record of events recorded from just The combat diary reports are interspersed with
before the start of the invasion of Russia up Dr. Türk’s fascinating daily diary entries which
until he was wounded just outside Moscow in bring the whole book to life while providing a
December 1941. Whilst this is impressive different perspective on the more formal
enough, the fact that the majority of the combat diaries. As a result the book is very
photos are full colour lifts this to a whole new readable. I think you can see from some of the
level of uniqueness. The publishers have taken images here what a great modelling reference
great pains to ensure that the very best results this although not cheap because of its massive
have been achieved with the reproduction of size it is well worth it.
Mission Models paint
More new paint? Well, if it’s something that’s better (or easier to use
for that matter) we’re always keen to give it a try. from the U.S.,Mission
Models are a blast from the past and we certainly remember the high
quality of their modelling tools (many of which we’re still using) and it
appears the same standards of quality research and manufacture
have been applied to a new range of acrylic paints. Having used the
primer and Olive Drab recently I can vouch for the claims made about
this paint being a pleasure to work with; it really does spray beautifully.
The colours are triple-pigmented for maximum opacity (something we
noticed) and are lightfast, no additional additives are used to produce
‘airbrush ready’ paint which avoids any premature breakdown or
shortened shelf life MM claim. The paint can be sprayed through even
the smallest airbrush tip but it’s recommended to thin slightly with
their own thinners which we’ve done, also including a few drops of
their polyurethane mix additive which improves flow and leaves a silky
smooth finish. Water can be used for clean-up and we’ve found the
consistency well suited to brush painting A range of primer colours
and clear coats are part of the range and colours cover some generic
tones and specific military subjects with FS and RAL codes also,
colours come on chunky 30ml bottles with a snap-cap and off-set
48 dropper hole. It’s nice to see these guys back on the scene, find out
more at www.missionmodelsus.com and on their Facebook page.
German Motorcycles of
WWII (Part1)
David Doyle
Published by Ampersand / Hobby
Link Japan
Softback, 129 pages
ISBN9781944367022
www.hlj.com
In the same vein as the Kübel and Schwimmer book here's a superbly restored and preserved solo and sidecar-combo
great companion for anyone with an interest in the basic machines provides great visual reference for modelling. There's
mechanisation of the German forces of WWII with a collection of also great walk-around images of the little IF8 trailer / cart initially
large format period and contemporary images of BMW R4, R12, designed as a man or horse powered cart they were often seen
R35, R71, R74 and the Zündapp KS750. Again, the combination of hooked up to the sidecar combos. Another affordable and
wartime archive and extensive walk-around photographs of enjoyable reference.
M1A2 in Detail, Volume 2

Chris Mrosko and Brett Avants
Published by SABOT
Softback format, 142 pages
ISBN 9780997 377446
www.sabotpub.com
With a host of brand new kits hitting the market the timing of this Infantry Division participating in the Nordic Tank Challenge. As
second volume on the 'Abrams' is right on the money. Feeling well as overall views of static and performing M1A2s there's
chunkier than their previous releases it's certainly a case of quality excellent close-ups of internal and external details and stowage,
and quantity, this is a cracking collection of unique images, if you priceless modelling reference. The photo captions are well
don't fancy building an M1 when you put this book down you're detailed but written in a laid-back style and humorous at times.
probably a railway modeller! This book isn't a study of the Great modelling reference, recommended to anyone interested in
development or technical side of the U.S.'s MBT but more of a the Abrams, and for us, Sabot's best release in their range of 49
look at the working machine and the crews including the 1st modern U.S. vehicle references.
Cavalry Division, 1st Armoured Division, 4th Infantry and the 3rd
Mini Art
We continue to be impressed with the steady stream of releases Another useful set is ‘Office furniture and accessories’ including a
from Mini Art who realy are the saviors of the diorama builder with couple of desks and chairs with a varied selection of 1930s -
a great selection of accessory sets to compliment their building 1950s equipment. A printed sheet of maps and posters is a nice
and scenic kits. New railway signal and water pump kits are inclusion to this excellent set.
perfect to pair with Mini Art’s rail track we looked at in the last Featuring in their recent superb T-44 kit, a dedicated wheel and
issue, beautifuly moulded and highly detailed they come complete track set is now available suitable for late T-34s, very delicate
with clear and tinted parts.More multi-coloured moulding features detail and superb, sharp moulding make this a high quality and
in the wine bottle, milk bottle and crockery sets; even decals are economical detail upgrade which looks like it could be made to fit
included for the crates and bottle labels with enough to last many most manufacturers kitts with little fuss.
50 years of diorama projects (unless you’re planning on building a Check out Mini Art’s massive range at www.miniart-models.com,
fully loaded milkfloat). our thanks to them for sending our samples direct from Ukraine.
Takom 1:35 Hanomag SS100

Even enthusiasts of classic German vehicle design (myself wanted to display the bonnet open. All of the doors are posable
included) surely couldn’t consider the SS100 attractive in many and the interior is well rendered giving good diorama options. All
ways, developed originally in the 1930s as an agricultural vehicle it of the sprues are cleanly moulded as we expect from new tooling
certainly has that appearance but served extensively as a and the vinyl tyres exceptionally good with good cross-ply type
dependable workhorse with both the Wehrmacht and Luftwaffe tread detail and superb ‘Kleber’ side-wall lettering. A really nice kit
and produced in post-war France. Takom’s kit is very much of a of this vehicle which is long overdue, the set which includes this
‘flat-pack’ design with the chassis built from separate rails and tractor with the V-2 and launcher from Takom is certainly one to
cross members and the body from separate panels although the look forward to!
engine provided (although welcome) looks pretty basic if you
Dragon 1:35 King Tiger kits with Zimmerit

You wait for a King Tiger and then they all arrive at once! Before and pattern is not as closely spaced as it is on the real vehicles.
you get too excited these are essentially re-releases of the 2011 There are also some omissions like the undercuts on the front of
kits with the moulded zimmerit. There is a small addition to each the Henschel turret which should be zimmeritted and the hatch
kit however with the Henschel turret version having two turret plate on the back of the Porsche turret is missing the big conical
shells, one with the clean rectangle on the turret side for PzAbt.505 bolts around its edge. For many modellers the density of the
vehicles as depicted on the box art. The kit provides decals solely pattern will probably not be a concern as it overcomes the hurdle
for this unit but manages to get the style of the turret numbers of adding your own zimmerit. Both kits provide photo etched parts
wrong. The Porsche turret version includes a bonus optional portal for the screens and similar parts and both include clear moulded
crane for the turret roof but it comes with rather unconvincing periscopes and two sizes of braided metal rope. If you missed
photoetched chains. Both kits were very much the state of the art these the first time around now is your opportunity to snap these
choice not so long ago and both will still build into excellent up but the newest generation of King Tiger kits have now 51
replicas of the tank but I remain dubious about the ready moulded superceeded these.
zimmerit finish which on both kits although it captures the depth
35 A127
35 259
35L-207
72L-53
G32
35L-206
48L-28
Aber
Perfect precission from Poland with a new batch of upgrades from MiniArt’s new T-44M is barrel set 35L-206. In 1:72 is a brilliant L/48
Aber. Starting with the ever popular Tiger I is a couple of sets for barrel for StuG.IIIs with set 72L-53 and in 1:48 is 48L-28 for Flak
the new Rye Field kits; 35 259 is designed for Tunisia 501vehicles, 18 and 37s. If you’re following our 1:16 Panzer IV build these two
packed with details and including cleaning rods. 35 A127 will fit sets will be of interest; 16 069 is a beautiful set to replace the
any early Tiger providing the Feifel air cleaner tubes (with their cylindrical air filters on the Ausf.H (early or G) and 16 112 are
particular weave). G32 is a simple little set to upgrade Takom’s T- generic hexagonal bolts (1.34mm across the head), 30 pieces are
55AM with a full grille set and still in 1:35 35L-207 is a full set of included. www.aber.net.pl is the place for more details.
barrels for the Meng WWI Mk.V Male and bang up to date for
AK Interactive Diorama Series

We’ve had some sample of a brand new
range of diorama materials from the guys at
AK. The M40’s groundwork in this issue was
created using this and I found it to perform
really well. With everything from desert
sand to snow the packs are pretty sizeable
100ml and 250 ml, with some excellent
natural textures and man-made effects
such as concrete and asphalt. Some of the
products are designed to work in
combination should you require it such as
dry and wet mud and snow terrain and
snow sprinkles. Various water effects also
feature in the range with liquid (pouring)
acrylic and gels. This range will certainly
take the guess work and experiments out of
diorama production and AK produce some
excellent tutorials which can be found on
their website
52 www.ak-interactive.com
Kübelwagen and If my lotto numbers ever came up forget your a selection of large format archive images
Schwimmwagen exotic Ferraris and the likes, A Kübel or forming a perfect pictorial reference if you're
David Doyle Schwimmwagen (or both depending how much modelling either vehicle. Detailed captions are
Published by Ampersand / Hobby I'd won!) would be top of my 'want' list. Having included with call-outs for year-models and
Link Japan seen a Schwimmer schwimming at a vintage production changes. Nothing is included
Softback, 136 pages VW show many years ago I've been smitten showing the undersides of the vehicles but
ISBN9781944367039 (should that be schmitten?) ever since. This new there is plenty of interior and engine bay images
photo study by the very respected David Doyle with the preserved vehicles featured obviously
showcases some beautifully restored and chosen for their authenticity. I just want one
preserved examples in all their glory along with even more now!
Italeri 1:9 German Military Motorcycle and Sidecar

Italeri continue to work their way through the old ESCI large scale compartment, paniers and MG34 (enormous in this scale!). In this
kits which actually stand up pretty well today and would look series was a Kübelwagen which had a sprue included of personal
respectable built staight from the box due to their impressive size. equipment, it would have been great to see this included to add a
I’ve fond memories of this kit with it’s soft vinyl parts, springs and little clutter as you probably won’t have anything in the spares box
tubing it was state-of-the-art in the seventies! The moulding is in this scale. A tool box complete with hand tools is as good as it
decent with some flash here and there which shouldn’t cause too gets. Maybe the figure produced by ESCI might even see the light
much trouble, maybe the vinyl tyres will be a little more tricky to of day again? The Ampersand book we’ve just looked at would be
clean up but the detail is decent. Avoiding any statement of a great help in adding some detail, easily done in this scale and
‘BMW’ on the box art (undoubtably due to any copyright issues) would prove a really rewarding project, great to see this kit again
but this is the R-75 combination with interesting features such as and we hope Italeri continue the series. 53
the axle driven sidecar wheel, the kit includes the hinged storage
Light Trucks of the Italian

Army in WWII
Enrico Finazzer and Luigi Carretta
Published by Mushroom Models
Softback format, 64 pages
ISBN 978 8365281 227
www.mmpbooks.biz
With some lovely kits on the market in both resin and injection vehicles feature heavily, not only the trucks themselves but some
moulded mainstream offerings, this is a great inexpensive good information on the guns they mounted. A good collection of
reference from the guys at MMP if you're into those quirky Italian period images, plan drawings and colour profiles (including
trucks. The development of the vehicles for desert warfare is uniforms) make this a very worthwhile addition to the library of any
explained with their subsequent deployment by both Italian and modeller of soft-skin wartime vehicles.
foreign forces after the Italian Armistice. AS42 and AS43 based
SU-76 On The Battlefield PeKo's WWII Photobook series hits volume twelve with a look at the Russian SU-76, good timing
Neil Stokes if you've picked up the new Tamiya kit or have Mini Art's stashed away as there's some great
Published by PeKo Publishing Kft. images here to inspire a vignette or diorama. One of the most prolific pieces of Soviet armour
Hardback, 110 pages, produced there's a great selection of large format images with excellent captions showing action
Hungarian / English text in the snow covered countryside of the Motherland right through to some of the best quality
ISBN 9786155583001 images of the Soviet push through Berlin. Some quality comprehensive views of a beutepanzer
www.pekobooks.com operated by the Wiking Division in 1944 which appears to have had a full repaint by it's new
owners. Great visual modelling reference as always from this series.
Der Tiger Volume 2 Volume 2 of 'The Tiger' tracks the introduction included of the workshop areas and the
Volker Ruff and use with Schwere Panzerabteilung 502 reader is certainly made aware of the constant
Published by Volker Ruff with an excellent collection of large format maintenance and support these beasts
Hardback, 128 pages, images, very much unseen photographs with required, and indeed how frequently they
German / English text many from the serving troops. With such a became stuck in soft ground. Each image has
ISBN 9783981690811 wide source of images the quality varies but detailed English and German text providing
www.panzerwrecks.com the poorer ones are included for their interest excellent reference, a must for Tiger fans and
and benefit of completing the 'timeline' Volume 3 already promised on the Schwere
grouping from initial testing of the Tiger in Panzerabteilung 503. Our thanks to
54 1942/43 to their retreat to Courland and the Panzerwrecks for the sample copy.
last Tiger IIs. There are some great images
Dragon 1:35 Sd.Kfz.162 Jagdpanzer IV A-O

Rather than revisiting and re-boxing their original kit of the A-0 it production Jagdpanzer IV and Dragon look to have made an
appears Dragon have produced a whole new superstructure and excellent job with delicate torch-cut marks and weld seams. A
combined other sprues of their latest generation Panzer IV based nicely detailed gun breech and mount are included along with
AFVs. While the previous release contained etched metal other rudimentary interior features will provide enough should you
schurtzen, individual link tracks, metal barrel etc. this release is wish to leave the roof hatches open. With fear of repeating
under the 'Smart Kit' banner with single-run DS tracks and styrene ourselves, Dragon's range of Panzer IV based are beautifully
side armour, which is commendably thin although moulded as one detailed straight out of the box with lots of 'leftovers' for the spares
continuous length. With the unique curved corners to the bin…could this be the last version of Panzer IV from Dragon?
superstructure this is an interesting predecessor to the main Probably not.
Tigers in Combat III

By Wolfgang Schneider
Published by Hellion & Company
Hardback, 520 pages,
English text
ISBN 978-1-910777-97-8
www.casematepublishers.co.uk
Tigers in Combat I & II have long held a cherished spot on my filters and battery maintenance are all covered. It is all well
bookshelves as the definitive weighty tomes on on the tiger units illustrated with a mix of photos from the original service manuals
and after a very long gap we now have volume 3! Dont be put off as well as diagrams and illustrations but again the mix between
by the quite dreadful cover design with comedy burning tank on Ausf.E and B is not always explained in the captions. The bias of
the back cover which contrasts with the understated covers of the most of the contents of the book is swayed towards the Ausf E in a
original books. If you have the original books you may wonder what 90 -10% ratio. The roles of the different crew members are
more there is to be said in this new book but this deals with the examined as well as tasks like rearming, refuelling, towing and rail
technical aspects of both Tiger E and B. It begins with looking at transport. Tactics are explored along with command and control
the establishment of the new Tiger units, examination of the Tiger and the effects of enemy weapons with disturbing images of
E production line before moving onto training and technical trials. assorted impacts and holes. There is a small section of colour
The book now moves onto look at how to operate the tank which is images, most of which will already be familar and not all are
an extremely detailed examination of every aspect of the tank. terribly well reproduced with some printed very dark. Photo-wise
Mostly thise is focussed on the Tiger E with passing reference to there are a lot of images in the book - 1200 photos and
the B and in some cases the ilustrations are mixed which is illustrations so there is plenty to study although as said the Ausf.B 55
confusing. However if you want to learn how to start your Tiger this gets scant coverage. A worthy companion to the previous books
is all you need! Towing, work on the running gear, oil changes, fuel but very much more slanted towards the working of the tanks.
The SS Division Wiking in Mushroom Models always offer some great equipment and excellent armour shots
the Caucasus 1942-43 value, specialised topics which is very much especially of Panzer III and II. A good few
Massimiliano Afiero the case here with a chronological study of images of the seldom photographed Marder
Published by Stratus ‘Wiking’ on the Eastern front. Period reports IID are featured throughout and it’s
Softback, 144 pages and testomonies along with original interesting to see the contrast of not only the
ISBN 9788365281371 documentation, maps and of course an condition of the vehicles but the troops
www.mmpbooks.biz excellent collection of images which all themselves in the images of the summer
appear to be sourced from private advance and winter retreat. A good
collections. The images vary in quality but compact and easily read reference for
there’s some great reference of uniforms, German armour modellers.
Mini Art 1:35 T-54-I

Mini Art continue to bridge the gap between the T-34 and T-55 moulding and some ultra-fine detail, such is the extent of the
with this new release to accompany their beautiful T-44. This is interior work this one is crying out for a scrapyard scene with the
another mega-kit featuring a full interior including the engine bay, turret and V54 engine removed! Some of the moulded cast and
individual link tracks, over one hundred photoetched parts, clear armour textures are as good as you’ll see from any manufacturer
parts and decals for four versions. All of this adds up to over one proving that Mini Art can mix it with the best, another superb kit of
thousand parts with fantastic detail straight from the box but an interesting subject and surely a must have for any enthusiast of
56 obviously for the ‘builders’ amongst us with some degree of post-war Soviet armour. Now we just need to get all of these
experience. Mini Art realy are going from strength to strength with sprues back into the box...
this kit being possibly their best looking yet with super-sharp
the War. It should be stated that the diesel the T-34s thanks to the wet stowage of the
T
he lend-lease programme is a well-
known form of support delivered to engine powered M4A2 was the only type of ammunition, after getting a hit it didn’t
the Soviet Union during WWII by the Sherman delivered to Soviet Union. explode immediately and the crew had
U.S.A. Among the shipments of equipment Besides the USSR, other users of this type time to bail out. The new 76 mm gun
there were of course large numbers of the of tank were the British Royal Armoured proved good against German medium
U.S. work-horse tank, the Sherman. Initially Corps (who called the tank Sherman III) tanks as well, especially the Panzer IV.
the Red Army was supplied with the 75mm and the U.S. Marine Corps. The U.S. Army My model represents a vehicle with the
gun version (around 2000 tanks delivered didn’t accept diesel powered Shermans for early layout of the turret containing the big
in 1943-1944). From May 1944, after the their use. Apparently the Sherman was loader’s hatch (instead of the later, oval
production switched to the T23 turret valued by it’s Soviet crews, such opinions one), pressed roadwheels of the later style
version housing the more powerful M1A1 can be found in their memoirs. Although (in use from the late months of 1944) and
76mm gun, the Red Army started receiving they preferred the steel chevron tracks no muzzle-brake on the gun barrel .
this new type, to bolster the strength of the over the rubber padded ones the tank was
Guards Units. More than 2000 new held in high regard, mainly because after
Shermans were delivered until the end of getting hit it didn’t catch fire as quickly as
58
1:35
59
This particular tank, with tactical number The stowage layout is loosely based on of a diorama hence the crew looking
330, was supposedly photographed at the war time example. Another thing that around the tank as if they were driving
Torgau, April/May 1945, probably after caught my eye was a huge fuel leak on through a post-battle terrain.
the German surrender. Initially I had a the side, covering almost half of the The sponson’s slogan means “The
different plan for the model being built sponson. The crew member in charge of Russians always beat the Prussians”,
as a Sherman operating somewhere in refueling had to be a really clumsy guy, and is a quote after the Marshal of the
Austria, based also on a wartime photo but a great touch for modellers to Russian Empire, Suvorov, who replied
hence the T49 tracks, fuel barrel stowed replicate. with the words to the Tsar while the
on the engine deck etc. But when I saw Initially I planned only a three man crew latter insisted on implementing Prussian
the set of pictures showing the “Torgau” visible outside the tank but later on I had army drills in his own army.
Sherman I immediately changed my the idea to add a fourth in the loader’s
mind. The slogan and stripes on the hatch. Fitting another figure to the hatch I would like to thank Melius Manu from
turret (either black or red, I choose red), once it was glued to the turret became Poland for designing and supplying me
tree logs, tarps and damaged road- more difficult than I thought but with the unique decals for this model.
wheel were the details that made me eventually I did manage to squeeze him
want to build that particular Sherman. in there. The tank will later become part
One of the weakspots of the Dragon kit is Then I applied the putty to the right areas, Using one of my sculpting tools, a sharpened
the lack of some of the welds. To replicate pressed into place with my fingers. toothpick, I created the texture of the welds,
missing ones I used Greenstuff that was then they were smoothed with a brush
first rolled to a thin, long roll. soaked in warm water.
In this picture you can see, as already

mentioned, that initially I had a completely
different idea for the model, Modelkasten
T49 tracks can be seen here, commonly
used on Red Army Shermans.
Some of the work had to be undone to

match the tank in my reference
photographs. No doubt I’ll used the items
on a future project.
60
The effect is clearly visible here
The tank in the wartime photos has it’s T48 tracks worn nearly to Later the tracks were painted overall
the limits. Since I decided to use the vinyl offering from Tasca I with Humbrol 72 earth tone, then the
had to work on the rubber pad surfaces a bit to wear them out, rubber pieces were brush painted with
to do this I used dremel and course sand paper Lifecolors’s anthracite.
Since the model was supposed to be painted in a more traditional Here you can see the turret with red stripes masked and
way with no colour modulation involved, I sprayed a layer of Lifecolor’s sprayed, the cast surface textures are enhanced by polishing
Olive Drab UA 222 (from their Olive Drab paint set). with powdered graphite.
The hull undergoing the same

treatment as the turret...
A comparison of the ‘flat’ looking hull with the turret, here you can see
I’ve already painted the edges of the road wheels with a polished
metal look (Modelmaster silver metallizer was used).
61
I repeated the graphite process several times by rubbing it onto the Weathering was done using Tamiya Buff sprayed over a layer of hair
model with my fingers and cotton tip to get to the less accessible spray, no pigments were involved in the process (later on I only
areas of the model. The tarp over the .50 cal Browning was done applied them on the tanks rear, to add texture to the dusty look).
using a tissue soaked with water/white glue mixture.
The tarpaulins after

weathering. Note also
the oily effect of the
diesel spills
The tarps in this case were made using lead

foil that was cut to smaller squares of different
sizes and then bent accordingly to the
contours of the model
Custom made decals by Melius

Manu applied to the model
62
More of the decals on the turret, the tactical number was later treated
with some filters to give it more battle worn look. Diesel fuel runs were
done using AK Fuel stains effect.
The hull is several steps into the weathering process

here with the Tamiya buff over hairspray then
scrubbed with water obtaining the random ‘patchy’
effect, the turret’s yet to receive dust layers.
A look at the rear progressing, tarps were

weathered mainly with Mig Productions Neutral
Wash, one of my favourite mediums for weathering,
you can also see the damaged rear rack and lack
of the cleaning rod parts (stowed by the crew
My partially scratch-built crew, the commander’s and behind the loader’s hatch).
loader’s heads come from Alpine’s range, the rest are
Hornet’s with scratch-built tanker helmets. I used Magic
Sculp for their bodies and clothes, Greenstuff for gear
such as helmets, buttons etc.
The tricky job of positioning

the crew, ultimately there will
be two figures in the loader’s
hatch, trickier still!
63
For the buckets and large funnel

for pouring the fuel I used the
Eureka XXL photoetched set.
Fitting the loader in his hatch along

with the second crewman was not
an easy task but happily I
managed to get the look I wanted. AK Interactive 2.7 mm lenses, dedicated for Sherman
tanks appeared to be the best solution for my model,
the lights come from a Tasca kit. The lenses add a
final touch of realism to my Soviet ‘Fury’.
64
65
only
£22 .95
116 pages featuring three modelling
projects based on an extensive 40
page reference section of retired
Russian armour.
Packed with step-by-step scratchbuilding,

detailing, painting and extreme weathering
along with groundwork techniques.
Scrapyard Armour is available for a
limited introductory offer with free postage.

Meng AFV Modeller 093 - 2017 March April

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Issue 93 Cover.

qxp_Issue 26 cover 10/02/2017 13:30 Page 1

MARK NEVILLE FIRES UP TAMIYA’S NEW M40

10 Big Bang Theory

20 Fire and Ice

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by

Editor and Designer: David Parker

big cat build

Since I did not like the kit’s

To add some interest, I decided to cut open some of the rear

The A7 turret is enormous! Even

giving the leopard his spots

With Vallejo acrylics and the Tankograd reference book, I painted

The tracks look a little loose on the

With the sprocket wheels I applied ‘micro

When modelling modern vehicles it’s easy to find

This is another excellent Leopard

BIG ‘T’S BIG SHOT- BIG KIT

Both the lower and upper hull are

The mighty 155mm barrel

More multi-media parts with some

The kit provides markings for “Courageous

DETAIL PAINTING AND WEATHERING

Gun and Fighting Compartment I paid close attention to

The depth of the finish is due to the

Note the driver’s preferred access route

The figures are very well actually similar to late WWII

Using acrylics for the flesh tones also

The groundwork couldn’t be simpler. A piece of polystyrene

Manuel Reinher models a Flammhetzer in 1:48

A pencil was used to create metallic edges

The CAD design was split into parts and printed on a

The fixings for the air filter trunking

The project continues in the next Issue

Maybach HL 120 TRM Engine

MODELLED BY OSCAR EBRÍ • FIGURES BY JOSE MARIA ILLA

It is something curious how a simple picture can inspire us, and

When thinking about the project I was tempted to build a more

I began with a base made of wire to which

Real earth and “Gravel and Sand Fixer”

Meng 1:35 King Tiger

Zvezda T-14 'Armata' Russian MBT

Takom 1:35 G6 Rhino S.P. Howitzer

Revell 1:72 T-55 A/AM

Kinetic 1:35 RG31 Mk.5

Dragon 15cm s.IG.33/2 (Sf) Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer

By any reasonable standards this is a these images in what is a beautifully printed

Mission Models paint

M1A2 in Detail, Volume 2

Takom 1:35 Hanomag SS100

Dragon 1:35 King Tiger kits with Zimmerit

AK Interactive Diorama Series

Italeri 1:9 German Military Motorcycle and Sidecar

Light Trucks of the Italian

Dragon 1:35 Sd.Kfz.162 Jagdpanzer IV A-O

Tigers in Combat III

Mini Art 1:35 T-54-I

In this picture you can see, as already

Some of the work had to be undone to

The effect is clearly visible here

The hull undergoing the same

The tarpaulins after

The tarps in this case were made using lead