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Lecture 3 Apply Finishing Touches
Lecture 3 Apply Finishing Touches
Lecture 3 Apply Finishing Touches
1-3
Steps/Procedure:
1. Prepare the materials needed.
2. Measure and fold the hemline following the measurements needed.
3. Sew the hemline based on the garment specification.
4. Apply 5S.
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
Garments are trimmed of excess threads in accordance with
sewing procedures
Garments are reversed and hanged in accordance with company’s
procedures
Trimming tools are prepared in accordance with company’s
procedures
CONDITION:
The students/trainees must be provided with the following:
1.WORKPLACE LOCATION
2.TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Trimming scissors
Cutting shears
Specification sheet
Model/dress form
Seam ripper
Garment sample
3.TRAINING MATERIALS
Module
References
Information Sheet
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
Written Test
Actual performance
Learning Experience
Perform the Task Sheet LO4.2-1. Check your performance against the
Performance Criteria Checklist. If you
failed to perform the task, read the
information sheets again to perform
all tasks properly. See you’re
instructor.
TRIMMING TOOLS
Trimming is cutting off allowances to reduce bulkiness and cutting
excess thread. Sewing cutting tools are very important to moving the sewing
project along to completion. Sewing cutting tools should be of the best quality
that you can afford. The best quality cutting tools are made of high grade
stainless steel.
Pinking Shears
Pinking shears, not to be confused with dressmaker shears, have
serrated or jagged edges that cut a zigzag pattern on the fabric. These shears
are used to finish seams and to finish raw edges, and to create decorative
edges. The edge that they produce is resistant to raveling.
Pinking Shears
Scissors
Sewing scissors should consist of those for cutting fabric and those for
cutting paper such as pattern paper and cutting the actual pattern that is
going to be used away from the pattern sheet. Scissors for cutting fabric
should never be used for cutting paper, because this can dull these scissors.
Sewing scissors are also referred to as trimming scissors, because they are
used to trim and clip seams and facings and also to trim away excess fabric.
These scissors generally have about a six inch blade.
Embroidery scissors are a smaller with about a four or five inch blade
and are used in hand embroidery work and precision cutting, to get into
corners and clip threads close to the fabric.
Thread Clippers
GRADING AND TRIMMING
The most important sewing techniques that every sewer should know are
never directly visible on a completed project, yet they’re essential to giving that
project a truly professional finish. Trimming seam allowances properly on
enclosed seams is one of those steps that will quickly improve your sewing.
When you add a facing, make a collar, sew a pocket, cuff, or waistband –
anything that requires the seam allowances to get pressed together and hidden
on the inside – you need to trim those seam allowances to different levels so
they won’t create a ridge on the outside of the fabric. This is called grading.
When you grade a seam, you want to be sure the wider seam allowance is the
one that is closest to the right side of the garment like the upper collar, for
example. You can do this in a 2-step process: trim them both and then go back
and trim the lower seam allowance a bit more. But here’s a trick that makes
grading easy and the result is exactly what you need: simply hold your shears
at an angle while you trim both seam allowances together. This removes a little
more fabric from the seam allowance that is toward you – just enough to make
the grade!
Take it Up a Notch:
When you sew convex curves, like those around a collar or pocket, the
trimmed seam allowances don’t have enough room to lie flat so they form
ripples when you turn the fabric to the right side. You can make room by
cutting out some pie-shaped wedges around the curve. These notches create
just enough space to make your curves smooth and flat when pressed. And
when you’re working with lightweight fabrics, trimming around the curve with
pinking shears does the job. Another techiques is when sewing convex curve ,
shorten the stitch length as you go around the bend and yoy will get a much
smoother edge.
Directions: Write True if the statement is correct and False if the statement is
wrong.
_________ 1. Trimming seam allowances properly on enclosed seams is one of
the
steps that will quickly improve sewing.
________2. Proper trimming and pressing results in a perfect curve.
__________3. Trimming is cutting off allowances to reduce bulkiness and
cutting
excess thread.
__________4. Do not press seam allowances open before you turn to the right
side whether the edge is straight or curved.
________5.Notches creates space for seam allowances to spread around a
curve.
__________6.Thread clippers are a handy little spring loaded cutting tool that
allow for the snipping of threads.
__________7.Scissors for cutting fabric can also be used for cutting paper,
because this can dull these scissors.
__________8.Pinking shears are used to finish raw edges, and to create
decorative
edges.
________ 9.Picking shears are natural notchers.
__________10.When grading, you need to trim those seam allowances to
different
levels so they won’t create a ridge on the outside of the fabric.
1. True
2. True
3. True
4. False
5. True
6. True
7. False
8. True
9. True
10. True
Steps/Procedure:
1. Prepare the tools needed.
2. Trim only the excess thread.
3. Conduct quality check to ensure if the requirements are met.
4. Apply 5S.
Learning Experience
Most irons today have written right on them the type of fabric and what the
heat setting should be. ALWAYS TEST a scrap piece of fabric BEFORE you
press your garment or project pieces. You can set your iron to a lower temp if
you are feel the heat is too hot for your fabric. Here are some suggestions on
heat settings for different fabrics.
a. Cotton - This is probably the easiest fabric to press and usually
has no problems. You can use a dry iron or steam. Cotton fabrics
usually use a hot/high temperature. Be careful with cotton
blends, which are cotton fabric blended with another type of fabric.
Most times you will have to use a lower temp for blends.
b. Fabrics with a Nap - You must be careful pressing fabrics with a
nap. Press on the wrong side (or ugly side) whenever possible. If
you must press on the right side (or pretty side) use a piece of the
same fabric with the nap. Have the nap sides together while
pressing.
c. Silks - Silk fabric should always be pressed with a dry iron, do not
use steam.
d. Wool - Use plenty of steam when sewing with wool. Wool is easily
shaped when using steam. You can also use a damp cloth to press
over the wool.
e. Linen - Most linen fabric today has a nice shine to it. You will
want to press on the wrong side so that the "shine" does not go
away.
PRESSING EQUIPMENT
1. STEAM IRON: is heated plate with a handle and water reservoir. It is used
to smooth out wrinkles in clothing. Unlike dry iron steam irons have a
steaming feature that helps to smooth away stubborn wrinkles.
2. IRONING TABLE:
This square or rectangular padded table is used for the bulk of the
pressing procedures. The ironing tables are significantly larger than a regular
ironing board to allow the costume technician to spread large pieces of fabric
out flat for proper pressing.
3. IRONING BOARD:
These are similar to ironing boards found in the home, but are sturdier
to withstand constant use. All ironing boards must be level and well padded,
they also have a tapered end to press small areas.
4. PRESS CLOTHS:
These pieces of fabric are used to protect the garment from marking
during the pressing process. Not all fabrics need this protection, but it is a
good idea to check all fabrics first before pressing without one. White
broadcloth or muslin are used to avoid creating a shine on all fabrics.
The procedure for using a press cloth is the same for any of the above
types. To avoid a shine, place the press cloth over the right side of the fabric
and press as usual. To avoid seam edges marking the right side of a
garment, place the press cloth between the wrong side c the fabric and the
seam allowance.
7. SLEEVE BOARD:
This actually is two small ironing boards placed one on top of the
other. It is designed to press small, narrow areas such as sleeves, trouser
legs, and necklines
8.SLEEVE ROLL:
This tubular, firmly stuffed cushion is rounded on either end. It can
be used to press curves and seams in hard to reach places. With this roll
you press not only the seam, but the surrounding area as well, which
prevents creases.
11.SPRAY BOTTLE:
Often stubborn wrinkles and creases need a shot of water in addition
to the steam provided by the iron. A light spray before pressing will usually
remove these marks. Pretest the fabric before applying the water as some
fabrics water spot.
12.CLOTHES BRUSH or NYLON NET:
A clothes brush or a wadded piece of nylon net is used to remove
small pieces of thread and lint from the garment or the ironing surface
before pressing. If you press without removing this lint, it can permanently
mark the fabric.
13.IRON CLEANER:
This product is designed to remove scorch, marks, lint, and dirt
buildup from the bed of the iron while the iron is hot. Read the directions
carefully before using, and always protect the surface of the ironing table
with several layers of scrap fabric.
SELF–CHECK LO4.3-1
Directions: Read the items carefully and identify what is being described.
Write your answer on a separate answer sheet.
__________ 1.This fabric should always be pressed with a dry iron. The use of
steam is not allowed.
__________ 2.This tubular, firmly stuffed cushion is rounded on either end
and is used to press curves and seams in hard to reach places.
__________ 3.This is probably the easiest fabric to press.
__________ 4.This square or rectangular padded table is used for the bulk of
the
pressing procedures.
__________ 5.This is designed to remove scorch, marks, lint, and dirt buildup
from the bed of the iron while the iron is hot.
__________ 6.This oblong, firmly stuffed cushion has rounded curves. It is
designed to press curved areas of the garment such as darts,
sleeve
caps, and princess seams.
__________ 7.This fabric is easily shaped when using steam and with a
damp cloth.
__________ 8.These pieces of fabric are used to protect the garment from
marking
during the pressing process.
__________ 9.It is used to remove small pieces of thread and lint from the
garment
or the ironing surface before pressing.
__________10.This iron has steaming features that help to smooth away
stubborn wrinkles.
1. Silk
2. Sleeve roll
3. Cotton
4. Ironing table
5. Iron remover
6. Tailor’s ham
7. Wool
8. Press cloth
9. Cloth brush or nylon net
10.
INFORMATION SHEET LO4.3-2
CORRECT PRESSING
Correct pressing is essential for the shaping and molding of the garment.
It gives a professional appearance to the finished garment. Pressing involves
applying heat , moisture and pressure to the fabric while it is in desired shape.
The iron is raised and lowered , rather than pushed along with fabric.
Before beginning the actual pressing work on any garment all loose dust
and dirt must be brushed out of the cloth, spots and stains must be
completely removed by some of the methods already described. If dust and dirt
are left in the material the steaming process may cause the cloth to look dingy.
Sometimes a garment has a shiny appearance which needs to be
removed. There are a great many ways in which this can be dealt with. A hard
brushing with a stiff brush will often prove effective. Sometimes it will be
necessary to rub the spot lightly with very fine sand paper, other times such
an effect can be removed by sponging the spots before finishing the pressing.
Any garments to be pressed should be laid perfectly straight and smooth
in the desired shape. Pressing is sometimes done directly on the wrong side of
material, this, however, is not a good practice for beginners. You should work
on the right side according to the following directions.
A piece of wet cloth (a soft well worn piece of canvas or unbleached
muslin is satisfactory) should be placed smoothly over the garment. This wet
cloth should be covered with another perfectly dry piece of heavy material (a
piece of canvas would be suitable for this purpose). The hot iron is then
applied to the dry cloth.
The heat of the iron produces steam from the wet cloth and causes it to
pass into the garment which is being pressed. The dry cloth on the top serves
to hold the steam and thus forces it into the garment. In order to prevent
wrinkling it is well to press with a straight downward pressure, as much as
possible, rather than with a rubbing motion.
The pressing should be continued until the garment is perfectly dry. The
most important point is to make sure that the garment is absolutely dry before
the pressing ceases. If a garment is left damp, all the tiny fibers of the wool
being soft and pliable, it will not hold its shape long. However, if the pressing is
done until the material is absolutely dry, the garment will remain in fine
condition for a long while.
PRESSING TECHNIQUES
1. Finger pressing is using the heat of the body to press or crease small areas
of fabric. It often works wonders on stubborn seams before you press with the
iron.
2. Favoring is when you roll one garment edge over another just slightly to
conceal the seam. Used extensively in tailoring and can make any collar,
waistband, etc.
look much more professional.
Directions: Write True if the statement is correct and False if the statement is
wrong.
_________1.Perfect pressing gives a professional appearance to the finished
garment.
_________ 2.Finger pressing is using the force of the body to press or crease
small
areas of fabric.
_________3.Pressing is not essential for the shaping and molding of the
garment
_________4.To prevent wrinkling it is well to press with a straight downward
pressure rather than with a rubbing motion.
_________ 5.Pressing each unit of garment is not important factor in sewing.
1.True
2.False
3.False
4.True
5.False
6.True
7.True
8.True
9.True
10.True
Removing Creases
Mix equal amounts of white vinegar and water. Apply directly to the
fabric and press to set or remove creases.
Directions: Write True if the statement is correct and False if the statement is
wrong.
________ 1.To avoid imprints in the fabric, do not press over either pins or
basting.
________ 2.Tap water may be okay to use in your iron, depending on what type
of
water you have.
________ 3.Clothes are very difficult to iron when they are fully dry or over
dried in
the dryer.
_________4.When a hem is folded and pressed into position, press it over the
top edge.
_________5.Try to iron your lightest silk, synthetic, and delicate fabrics first
because these need to be ironed on low temperatures.
_________6.Mix equal amounts of white vinegar and water and apply directly to
the
fabric and press to set or remove creases.
_________7.Pressing is one of the most important steps to successful sewing to
be
able to have good result.
_________8.If too many articles of clothing are in the dryer, it will not create
monster wrinkles, and will not make your ironing much more
difficult.
_________9.Starches and sizers is a great tool when ironing, but they must be
used properly.
_________10.Use a tube of a nonabrasive cleaning agent recommended for irons
to
remove dirty soleplate.
Learning Experience
Perform the Task Sheet LO4.4-1. Check your performance against the
Performance Criteria Checklist. If you
failed to perform the task, read the
information sheets again to perform
all tasks properly. See you’re
instructor.
Packaging Materials
Our range of packaging material includes garment packaging materials
and industrial packaging materials.
These are appreciated in the global market for the following features:
1.Good functioning ability
2.Less maintenance
3.Durability
4.Excellent finishing for better appearance
5.Light weight
Before textile products, such as clothing, bedding, fabrics and awnings,
may be sold to the public, they must be labeled. The wording on the labels
must follow standard regulations that have been passed to protect the
consumer. It is the responsibility of the manufacturing that labeling is
accurate. There are three different categories of labeling requirements that
affect textile products:
1.Fiber content
2.Country of origin
3.Care instruction
The most effective method we have found to keep clothes virtually
wrinkle-free is the Pack It
Folder . The principle
behind the Pack It Folder
is that by packing
clothes without
wrinkles and keeping them
motionless during travel,
they will arrive Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4 in the same
condition in which they
were packed.
Fold shirts around packing guide and stack shirts with collars at
alternating ends.
Fold slacks in half, then in half again. Stack with waistbands at
alternating ends.
Place packing guide on top.
Secure ends and sides
Directions: True or False: Write True if the statement is correct and False if it
is wrong. Use a separate sheet of paper for your answer.
1. True
2. False
3. True
4. True
5. True
6. False
7. True
8. True
9. True
10. True
Steps/Procedure: