See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: https://www.researchgate.

net/publication/237387280

One bath method dyeing of polyester/cotton blend fabric with

sulphatoethylsulphonyl disperse/reactive dyes treatment by chitin biopolymer

Article · January 2010

CITATIONS READS

22 2,442

4 authors, including:

Mehrdad Hajilari Hamidreza Movahed

Islamic Azad University hamidreza movahed
13 PUBLICATIONS 83 CITATIONS 6 PUBLICATIONS 32 CITATIONS

SEE PROFILE SEE PROFILE

All content following this page was uploaded by Mehrdad Hajilari on 02 March 2015.

The user has requested enhancement of the downloaded file.

African Journal of Biotechnology Vol. 8 (6), pp. 1127-1135, 20 March, 2009
Available online at http://www.academicjournals.org/AJB
ISSN 1684–5315 © 2009 Academic Journals

Full Length Research Paper

One bath method dyeing of polyester/cotton blend

fabric with sulphatoethylsulphonyl disperse/reactive
dyes treatment by chitin biopolymer
H. Najafi1*, R. Assefipour2, M. Hajilari1 and H. R. Movahed1
1
Department of Textile, Islamic Azad University, Shahre Rey branch, Tehran, Iran.
2
Young Researchers Club, Islamic Azad University, South Tehran branch, Tehran, Iran.
Accepted 5 February, 2009

In this research, the process of dyeing polyester/cotton fabrics using disperse/reactive dyestuffs in one
method dyeing processes was investigated. In the order to improve the adhesion of chitin to the surface
of polyester/cotton fibers, pre-treatment in NaOH solutions was performed. The colour and rubbing
fastness properties of the chitin-deposited polyester/cotton fabrics were assessed. The colour
difference between the dyed blank samples and samples dyed in NaOH and/or different viscosity chitin
treatment was estimated. The data obtained shows that it is possible to dye polyester/cotton fabrics
finished by chitin with only one disperses/reactive dyestuff. The dyed samples showed good rubbing and
washing colour fastness properties within the range of colour change. The colour strength of the dyed
samples increased with the increased deposition of chitin on the fabric.

Key words: Disperse/reactive dyestuff, one bath method, polyester/cotton fabric, chitin biopolymer,
sulphatoethylsulphonyl.

INTRODUCTION

Costumers generally will accept polyester/cotton textile
fabrics. The selection of these fibres ensured sufficient
comfort resulting mainly from the use of cotton fibres, as
well as suitable mechanical properties such as the tensile
strength characteristic of synthetic fibres. However, the
presence of both components (polyester/ cotton) in
textiles causes some difficulties in the dyeing process
(Gejdzicki, 1998).
Polyester fibres show a hydrophobic character, and
swell to a very small extent in the water bath. Hence, the
access of the dyestuff molecules to the fibres inside is
very difficult (Arslan, 2001). This fact, together with an
absence of active chemical groups in polyester's macro-
molecules makes it impossible to apply the majority of
dyestuffs apart from disperse dyes (Bhattacharya, 1992).
On the contrary, hydrophilic cellulose fibres may easily
undergo swelling in water. Owing to this phenomenon,
the dyestuff molecules first adsorbed on the fibre surface
may diffuse into the fibre interior. Subsequently, the
bonding interactions between the dyestuff and cellulose
may be formed (Legrini et al., 1993).
In spite of their advantages, polyester fibres are difficult
to dye (Yediler et al., 2000). The often applied pressure
method requires a suitable, intricate apparatus which
causes great energy consumption. In order to obtain an
intensive colour strength of polyester fibres, dispersing
or carrier material agents are often added to the dye
bath (Perez et al., 2002). These agents can often cause
sensitization of the human skin. Moreover, the small
amount of them left on the polyester fibres reduces
colour fastness to light (Neamtu et al., 2002). It is possi-
ble to eliminate disperse dyestuffs and the detrimental
auxiliary agents by the application of natural polymer
such as chitin in the textile finishing processes
(Montazer, 2001). Here, we study the process of dyeing
polyester/cotton fabrics using disperse/reactive dyestuffs
in one method dyeing processes.
MATERIALS AND METHODS

Fabrics
*Corresponding author. E-mail:
textilechemist.najafi@yahoo.com. Tel. /Fax: +982122003756. Polyester/cotton fabric its 65/35 blends, enzymatic method with 2
1128 Afr. J. Biotechnol.

Table 1. The chitin samples characteristics; the viscosity was determined for a 1 - 7%
solution of chitin in a 1.5% solution of acetic acid at a temperature of 300°C, by
means of a Brookfield Viscometer at 40 rpm.

Property Unit hitin I Chitin II Chitin III

Dry mass % 96.5 88.9 89.4
Ash content % 1.29 0.28 1.1
Deacetylation degree % 82 65 77.6
Viscosity mPas 19.7 1228 240

Figure . One bath dyeing profile of PE/Co blend with temporarily solubilized
disperse/ reactive dyes.

g/l by Baylase AT (Bayer Co. Germany) at 70°C 40 min and then
washing hot water with added 0.5 g/l nonionic soap, scoured and
bleaching H2O2 35% 4 g/l, NaOH 30% 2 g/l, stabilizer 2 g/l, wetting
agents 1 g/l in 90°C at 45 min and then washing hot water and cold
water and air dried at room temperature when finishing in
pretreatment dyeing with disperse/reactive sulphatoethylsulphonyl
dyes.
Sulphatoethylsulphonyl reactive/disperse dye
Polyester/cotton fabric, PE/CO 65/35 (120 g/m2), containing in warp
and weft disperse/reactive ions PE/C0 65/35 yarns of linear density
10 × 2 tex. The samples were washed for 50 min in an aqueous
solution containing 2 g/l of wetting agent Diadavin EWN (Product by
Bayer. co Germany) with a liquor ratio of 1:30 at 70°C, and then
rinsed in cold water and dried at 100°C. In order to improve the
adhesion of chitin to the smooth surface of polyester fibres, an
alkaline pretreatment in water solution containing 0, 5, 10 and 15 g/l
of NaOH for 25 min at 95°C with a liquor ratio of 1:30 was
performed. Subsequently, the samples were rinsed twice in cold
water and dried at 100°C. Three chitin samples of different viscosity
and different deacetylation degree, produced by the Sails Chem.
Co Iran were used. The properties of the samples are shown in
Table 1.
The chitin flakes were dissolved in an aqueous 1.5% acetic acid,
after adding a cross linking agent (glutar aldehyde, 4% w/w,
calculated to the weight of pure chitin). The samples were immer-
sed in the chitin solutions in the special laboratory padding
squeezing machine, made by Atlas Co. This process was repeated
several times to ensure the even deposition of chitin on the fabric
surface. Then the samples were dried at 98°C for 35 s and
subjected to a thermofixation process at 145°C for 20 s.
The chitin amount deposition on the surface fabric was
determined an according to the equation:
p= T*a
d (1)
Where p = chitin amount deposited on the fabric, in %, calculated in
relation to the weight of fabrics, a = chitin concentration in the
padding solution, in g/l, T = chitin pick-up, in % (80% for
polyester/cotton blends), and d = density of the chitin solutions,
approximately 1 g/l for all chitin solutions.
A chitin solution of concentration 20 g/l was used for deposition.
For example, at T = 80%, a = 20 g/l, and d = 1g/l, the chitin amount
p = 1.6%.
Dyeing of polyester/cotton fabric
For satisfactory dispersion in the dye bath, the dye was initially
finished by mortar milling in the presence of a specially selected
dispersing agent. Polyester/cotton fabric were dyed in Atlas dyeing
machine at a liquor ratio of 1:40 using distilled water. The dye bath
were prepared with the dye concentration 2% owf and with 1.5 g/l
anionic Carrier (Levegal PEW Bayer Co. Germany). The pH was
then adjusted 6.5 and 0.2 mol sodium sulphate solution. Dyeing
 Najafi et al. 1129

Table 2. Changes in dry-rubbing, wet -rubbing (PN-EN ISO 105-X12:1999) and

washing fastness (PN-EN 20105-C01:1997) properties of polyester/cotton fabric
samples dyed using disperse /reactive blue after treatment with chitin ( I), 0 - without
alkaline pretreatment, and A1 -with alkaline pretreatment, NaOH 5 g/l.

Pretreatment Chitin Colour fastness to:

deposition%
Rabbing Washing
Dry Wet
O 0 4 3 4
1 4 3 4
2 4 3 5-4
3 4 3 5-4
4 4 3 5-4
5 5-4 3 5-4
6 4 3 4
7 5-4 4-3 5-4
0 5-4 3 5-4
A1 1 5-4 3 5-4
2 4 3 5-4
3 4 3 5-4
4 4 4 5-4
5 4 4-3 5-4
6 4 3 4
7 4 3 4

started at 45°C for 15 min, and then the dye bath temperature was
raised at a rate of 1.5 - 2°C /min to 70°C. From 70°C, the dye bath
temperature was raised by 1°C /min to 90°C, maintained at this
temperature for 60 min and cooled to 60°C. After 30 min at 60°C,
20 g/l of alkali (Na2Co3) was added to effect fixation of the reactive
dye on cotton and maintained at 60°C for further 30 min. The
dyeing were rinsed and soaped at 95°C for 10 min with 1.5 g/l
soaping agent and then dried at room temperature (Figure 1).
After dyeing, the samples were fixed in an aqueous solution
containing 3% Acrafix MF Bayer Co. Germany (without formalde-
hyde) for 45 min at 50°C, then rinsed and dried at room
temperature.
The colour difference between the dyed blank samples and
samples dyed after the alkaline and/or chitin treatment was
monitored with a Macbeth Color Eye 3000 diffusion reflectance
spectrophotometer, made in the USA, under illuminant D65 using a
10° observer. The colour and rubbing fastness properties were
estimated according to Polish standards. The results were assess-
ed in ratings from grade 1 (very poor) to grade 5 (excellent). The
colour change was assessed according to the grey scale from
grade 1 (much altered) to grade 5 (unaltered).
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Dyeing with disperse/reactive dyestuffs obtained on chitin
deposited polyester/cotton fabric samples is even, and
independent of earlier alkaline pretreatment. The dyeing
uniformity depends on the uniformity of chitin deposition.
The dyed polyester/cotton samples are characterized by
better dyeing uniformity and mélange effect, which
decreases with an increased amount of chitin.
The data obtained shows that after chitin treatment it is
possible to dye polyester/cotton fabric with only one
disperse/reactive dyestuff, which shows substantively only
to cellulose fibres. The dyed textiles are characterized by
good dry rubbing and fastness properties (3 - 4 to 4 - 5
grades), as well as good washing fastness properties in
the range of the colour change (4 to 4 - 5 grades), apart
from the polyester/cotton fabric samples dyed with the
disperse/reactive red dyestuff, for which 3 to 3 - 4 grades
were obtained (Tables 2 - 6).
An alkaline pretreatment of fabric samples has
practically no essential consequence for changes in
colour fastness to rubbing and washing, but causes a
slight increase in the depth of shade. In order to improve
the adhesion of chitin to the surface of polyester fibres,
the pretreatment in an alkaline solution containing 10 g/l
of NaOH is permitted.
The colour strength increases with an increase in chitin
deposition independent of the degree of deacetylation.
The colour difference between the dyed blank samples
and the samples with chitin is significant (Figures 2 - 6). The
deacetylation degree of chitin does not essentially affect
either the strength of colour of textiles or the colour fast-
ness to rubbing and washing. The viscosity of chitin (which
depends on the molecular weight) decides its application
properties. The stiffness of the chitin deposited samples
increases with an increase in the chitin deposition on
textile. According to the data obtained, the polyester/
cotton fabrics are best finished by means of disperse/
reactive dyestuffs after an alkaline pretreatment in so-
lution containing 10 g/l of NaOH and followed by impreg-
1130 Afr. J. Biotechnol.

Table . Changes in dry-rubbing , wet- rubbing (PN-EN ISO -X : ) and

washing fastness (PN-EN -Co : ) properties of polyester/cotton fabric samples
dyed using disperse /reactive blue after treatment with chitin (II), -without alkaline
pretreatment, and A - with alkaline pretreatment, NaOH g/l.

Pretreatment Chitin Colour fastness to:

deposition% Rabbing
Dry
0 4
O 1 4 3
2 4
3 4
4 4
5 4
6 5-4
7 5-4
0 4
A1 1 5-4
2 5-4
3 4
4 4
5 4
6 4
7 4
Washing
Wet
3 5-4
5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4
4 5-4
4 5-4
3 5-4
4 5-4
4 5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4

Figure . Changes in colour difference of polyester/cotton fabric samples dyed using

disperse/reactive blue after chitin (I) NaOH concentrations of 0 and 5 g/l.
 Najafi et al. 1131

Table . Changes in dry-rubbing, wet- rubbing (PN-EN ISO -X : ) and

washing fastness (PN-EN -Co : ) properties of polyester/cotton fabric samples dyed
using disperse /reactive blue after treatment with chitin (III), -without alkaline
pretreatment, and A - with alkaline pretreatment, NaOH g/l.

Pretreatment Chitin Colour fastness to:

deposition% Rabbing Washing
Dry Wet
0 5-4 4 4
O 1 5-4 4 4
2 5-4 5-4 4
3 4 4 4
4 4 4 4
5 4 4 4
6 5-4 4-3 5-4
7 4 4 4
0 4 4-3 5-4
A1 1 5-4 4-3 4
2 4 4-3 5-4
3 5-4 4-3 4
4 5-4 4 5-4
5 5-4 4 4
6 5-4 4 4
7 4 4 4

Figure 3. Changes in colour difference of polyester/ cotton fabric samples dyed

using disperse/reactive blue after chitin (II) NaOH concentrations of 0 and 5 g/l.
1132 Afr. J. Biotechnol.

Figure 4. Changes in colour difference of polyester/cotton fabric samples dyed using

disperse/reactive blue after chitin (III) NaOH concentrations of and 5 g/l.

Table 5. Changes in dry -rubbing, wet- rubbing (PN-EN ISO 105-X12:1999) and
washing fastness (PN-EN ISO 20105 C01:1997) properties of polyester/cotton fabric
samples dyed using disperse /reactive red after treatment with chitin (I), 0-without
alkaline pretreatment, A1-with alkaline pretreatment, NaOH 5 g/l, A2-with alkaline
pretreatment, NaOH 10 g/l, and A3 –with alkaline pretreatment, NaOH 15 g/l.

Pretreatment Chitin Colour fastness to:

deposition%
Rabbing Washing
Dry Wet
0 5-4 3 5-4
O 1 5-4 3 5-4
2 5-4 4-3 5-4
3 5-4 3 5-4
4 5-4 4-3 5-4
5 5-4 3 4
6 5-4 3 4
7 5-4 4-3 4
0 5-4 3 4
1 5-4 3 4
2 5-4 3 5-4
3 5-4 4-3 5-4
A1 4 5-4 4-3 4
5 5-4 3 4
6 5-4 3 5-4
7 5-4 3 5-4
 Najafi et al. 1133

Table 5. Contd.

0 5-4 3 5-4
1 5-4 3 5-4
2 5-4 3 5-4
3 5-4 3 5-4
A2 4 5-4 4-3 4
5 5-4 4-3 5-4
6 5-4 3 4
7 5-4 3 4
0 5-4 3 4
1 5-4 4-3 4
2 5-4 3 5-4
3 5-4 3 5-4
A3 4 5-4 3 5-4
5 5-4 3 5-4
6 5-4 4-3 5-4
7 5-4 3 5-4

Figure 5. Changes in colour difference of polyester/ cotton fabric samples dyed using
disperse/reactive red after chitin (I) NaOH concentrations of 0, 5, 10 and 15 g/l.

nation with chitin solution with concentration below 1 -
7% ( w/v), independent of the chitin characteristic.
Conclusion
It is possible to polyester/cotton fabrics with disperse/
reactive dyestuffs after chitin treatment. Dyed textiles are
characterized by good dry rubbing and washing fastness
but medium wet-rubbing fastness properties. The alkaline
pretreatment affects the greater adhesion of chitin to the
surface of polyester fibres, which is manifested by the
greater colour strength. Pretreatment in an alkaline
solution containing 10 g/l NaOH is permitted. The
achievement of good effects depends mainly on the
amount of chitin deposited and its characteristic
1134 Afr. J. Biotechnol.

Figure 6. Changes in colour difference of polyester/cotton fabric samples dyed

using disperse /reactive blue after chitin (I) NaOH concentrations of 0, 5, 10 and
15 g/l.

Table 6. Changes in dry-rubbing, wet- rubbing (PN-EN ISO 105-X12:1999)

and washing fastness (PN-EN 20105-C01-1997) properties of polyester/cotton fabric
samples dyed using disperse /reactive blue after treatment with chitin (I), 0-
without alkaline pretreatment, and A1-with alkaline pretreatment, NaOH 5 g/l, A2- with
alkaline pretreatment, NaOH 10 g/l, and A3- with alkaline pretreatment, NaOH 15 g/l.

Pretreatment Chitin Colour fastness to:

deposition% Rabbing Washing
Dry Wet
O 0 4-3 3 4
1 4-3 3 4
2 4-3 3 5-4
3 4-3 4-3 5-4
4 3 3 5-4
5 3 3 5-4
6 4-3 3 5-4
7 4-3 4-3 5-4
0 4 3 5-4
1 3 3-2 5-4
2 3 3-2 5-4
3 3 3-2 5-4
A1 4 4-3 3 5-4
5 4 3 5-4
6 4 3-2 5-4
7 4 3-2 5-4
0 4-3 3-2 5-4
1 4 3 5-4
2 4 3 4
3 4 3-2 5-4
A2 4 4-3 3 5-4
5 4 3 5-4
6 4 3 5-4
7 4 3-2 5-4
 Najafi et al. 1135

Table 6. Contd.

0 4
1 4
2 4
3 4
A3 4 4
5 4
6 4
7 4
3 4
3 4
3 5-4
3-2 5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4
3 5-4
3-2 5-4

(deacetylation degree, molecular weight). The greater Montazer M (2001). Alterations in dyeing of wool used in Persian carpet
piles, Jan. Feb, p. 4-7.
the molecular weight (viscosity) of chitin used, the worse Neamtu M, Siminiceanu I, Yediler A, Kettrup A (2002). Kinetics of
effects are observed. decolourization and mineralization of rective azo dyes in aqueous
solution by UV/H2O2 oxidation. Dyes Pigments 53: 93-99.
Perez M, Torrades F, Domenech X, Peral J (2002). Fenton and photo-
REFERENCES Fenton oxidation of textile effluents. Water Res. 36: 2703-2710.
Yediler A, Lienert D, Koch M, Kettrup A, Germirili- Babuna F, Karatas
Arslan I (2001). Treatability of a simulated disperses dye-bath by O¨, Insel G, Orhon D (2000). Appropriate technologies for the
ferrous iron coagulation, ozonation, and ferrous iron-catalyzed minimization of environmental impact from industrial wastewaters—
ozonation. J. Hazard. Mat. B85: 229-241. textile industry, a case study. AZ. II-72 146.
Bhattacharya SK (1992). Treatment of textile wastes. In: Wang LK,
Wang MHS, editors. Handbook of industrial waste treatment, vol.1.
New York.
Gejdzicki B (1998). The dyeing process of textile made from
polyester/cellulose fiber yarn, proceeding of the conference of dye
and colourists, zakopane.
Legrini O, Oliveros E, Braun AM (1993). Photochemical processes for
water treatment. Chem. Rev. 93: 671-698.

View publication stats