SIDE PLANKING CLAMP CA 43,L I N DECK PLATE

DECK PLATE KNEE

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1
7 DETERMINE ANGLE
, AT ASSEMBLY 9 i.
IA DECK
BEAM
SUMP PUMP HOLES

BREASTPLATE
 A

20

________ 3 6 " __________

.SHEER PLATE, 2- REQ.
, I-LEFT
DECK BATTEN
CABIN WIN DOW OPENING

BREASTPLATE
KNEE

ICLAMPSPLICE
FLOOR STRIPS
. 3 . ' . . 4 . # 8 SCREW NOTCH IN FRAMES
BEAM4 r -
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4 f- A. PLYWOOD
5 AFT SIDE BATTEN DETAIL, 2-REQ., I EACH SIDE
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2"-
SCREW X1YeTA5TTEN -1-1".."4111111.
SEC. B-B

________,.....,
________

KEEL I3'-5" LONG 0

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42" 42" 48"

4 BOTTOMPLANKING Ei SEC. A-A
60 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
nailed in place. This plywood 44BEAM 42".1•1 .V PLYWOOD -I, ,4/ _________,--___
need not be one continuous length FRAME X - GLUE __________—_______::-._ -___., 2g
but may be joined to save mate - 3
LUMBER ----4.
CROSS SECTION
, THROUGH PLATE „
rial, just so the plywood joint 48" ____________ 62
does not fall at the same spot that 34"
deck plates are joined. Using the  24" jtl 4
#1 A
FRAME DECK
same method for drawing the  32" I-A BEA
curved lines on the frames (Fig. 2A DECK
4), lay out the deck beams 1A and BEAM 4
47"
2A, Fig. 3. Note that the beams
are 4 in. wide and that the bottom WASTE
44
curves run off the board at the MAKES THIS r
-#.2 FRAME PART X 14"
ends. PLYWOOD SPLINE
Several of the parts of the Sea
Hawk are made from stock-size
3"
2 x 4-in. and 2 x 6-in. lumber (ac -
tually 1%-in. thick) planed down 1 AFTER PART DECK PLATE.
FORE PART SHOWING JOINT IN
to 11/4-in. thick. When purchasing 0 COVERING PLATE
these pieces (see Materials List)
HOLD PENCIL AT APEX, SLIDE 1.4-1F BEAM WIDTH —1
have your local lumber yard or BATTENS BACK AND FORTH 2
mill works surface-plane them be- FINISHING NAIL 2 BATTENSX1-41-"
fore delivery. BEAM
For the keel, cut the 2 x 6-in. HEIGHT
l um ber that has been planed t o BEAM DRAWING
11/4-in. thickness to a length of
13 ft. 5 in. Fasten it to the stem METHOD FOR DRAWING TRUE ARCS ON DECK BEAMS AND FRAMES
with glue and four #10 x 2-in. fh
screws. Use a chalk line or
straightedge clamped to the side of the stem to screws at each joint and to the breastplate with
align the keel with the stem. glue and #8 x 1-in. fh. screws driven through the
%-in. plywood. Reinforce the joint where the
A temporary assemblage of the stem, #1 and 2
deck plates join #2 frame with a knee shown in
f r a m e s a n d d e c k p l a t e s w i t h C - c l a m p s a s i n Fig.
Fig. 9. Fasten knee with glue and #8 x 1%-in.
7 should now be made so that any trimming and
fitting of the parts can be done before per manently fh screws.
assembling. This assemblage can be m a d e The hull framework including the subassembly
i n d o o r s d u r i n g i n c l e m e n t w e a t h e r , a n d then j u s t b u i l t , c a n b e s t b e e r e c t e d i n t h e u p - s i d e -
disassembled and stored until you are ready to down position on a building fixture made of 2 x
build the hull outdoors. First place the keel on 4's as in Fig. 6. Place the fixture on house bricks
the floor and prop up the stem so that it is or, better still, cement blocks, so that it is per -
p l u m b . N e x t , m a r k a n d c u t n o t c h e s i n t h e # 1 fectly level. Then turn the bow subassembly over
and 2 frames for the keel and stem, and place a n d p l a c e i t o n t h e b u i l d i n g f r a m e . A l l o w t h e
these frames in position. Use temporary props to s t e m , o r r a t h e r d e c k p l a t e s a t t h e s t e m t o r e s t
hold the frames in place. A few strips clamped to o n a 2 x 4 i n . b l o c k a n d p r o p u p t h e k e e l a n d
the berth supports on the frames (Fig. 7) will #2 frame so that the keel is level and parallel
help steady the assembly. with the building-frame rails. For props, use
Now, set the deck plates and deck batten in scrap 3 /4-in. stock nailed to the building frame
position on top of the frames and mark and cut and clamped to the hull frame parts. Now, meas ure
the notches in the frames for plates and batten. a nd m a rk t he l oc a t i ons of #3 a nd 4 fra m e s and
Then replace the plates and batten and clamp in the transom on the keel. Cut notches for the keel
place. in the frames and transom and assemble to t h e
From the dimensions given in Fig. 9 fit the k e e l w i t h s u i t a b l e p r o p s e x t e n d i n g f r o m frame
p r e v i o u s l y c u t 1 A a n d 2 A d e c k b e a m s t o t h e sides to building frame. Note that the trans o m i s
deck plates and batten, and clamp in place. When s e t a t a 1 5 ° a n g l e a n d t h a t t h e k e e l notch
you are satisfied that all the parts fit together extends through the keel frame and ply wood. The
properly, disassemble and store or proceed with end grain of the keel is later covered with the
the permanent assembly outdoors. outer transom frame pieces. Use a 2 ft. square and
Fasten the #2 frame to the keel with glue and plumb bob to set frames square with the keel both
t w o # 1 0 x f h s c r e w s a n d t h e # 1 f r a m e crosswise (athwart ship) and ver t i c a l l y . T h e n
with glue and four #10 x 2%-in. fh screws driven f a s t e n t h e f r a m e s a n d t r a n s o m t o the keel with
1
into the stem at an angle as for toe-nailing. Make two #10 x2 /2-in. fh screws at each joint.
and fasten the knee extension and tie bar (Fig. I t i s i m portant that the keel be absolutely
9) to further secure the #1 frame to the stem. straight. Check for high or lows spots by sighting
Fasten the deck plates and batten to frames and lengthwise along the keel or placing a straight -
deck beams with glue and two #8 x 1 3 /4-in. fh e dge on i t . R a i s e or l owe r t he fra m e s on t he i r
props if needed to straighten the keel.
 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
Installation of chines is your next job. Since
it is impossible to obtain chine stock long enough
to reach from transom to stem, join 14 and 5 1/2 ft.
length with a reinforcing strip of chine stock
about 40 in. long between #3 and 4 frames as in
Figs. 2 and 9. Fasten with Elmers waterproof glue
and #10 x 2 1/2-in. fh screws spaced 6 in. apart and
staggered to prevent splitting. To mark the
frames and transom for chine notches, saw off a
2 or 3 in. length of chine stock, hold in place on
the frame and mark around with a pencil. Then
cut the notches slightly undersize with a hand
saw. When the chines are clamped in position,
run your hand saw between the chines and
frames cutting the frames at a slight angle to
make perfect contact between chines and frames.
STUFF RAGS AROUND
WORK PIECE Nik.
STEAM BOX, MAKE
FROM FOUR PIECES
OF IX64X 6'
WORK
GARDEN
HOSE
5 GAL.
CAN
PIPES
rni SETUP FOR STEAMING
in CHINES ET C
Since it would be almost impossible to fasten
the chine bracket to the bow at the correct angle
without having the chines in place to use as a
guide, make up the chine bracket (Fig. 4) at
this time and hand-fit it to the stem knee. Locate
it about 23 in. above the keel and bend the chines
around to the bracket for alignment. Mark and
fasten to the stem knee with a 3 /8-in. bolt.
Starting at the transom, install both chines at
the same time fastening to each frame alternately
to avoid pulling the framework out of alignment.
Use glue and one #10 x 2 1 /2 in. fh screw at each
fra m e and three screws at the s t e m kne e . If
chines do not bend readily at fore end, wrap with
rags and soak with boiling water.
Unless you can purchase a 19 ft. length of
x 1 1 /4 for the sheer clamp, join two lengths of
stock between #4 frame and the transom with
a reinforcing strip as in Fig. 9. Cut notches for
sheer clamps in the transom and #3 and 4 frames
first then clamp the sheer clamps to the transom
and frames, and bend around to the #1A deck
beam. Mark for notches to be cut in #1 and 2
frames and #1A deck beam. Install the sheer
clamps with one #8 x 1 3 /4-in. fh screw at each
joint.
61
To make the curved rise in the sheer line just
aft of #2 frame, lay out and saw the curved
sheer clamp and 3 /8-in. plywood gusset (Fig. 9) to
shape. The cutout in the gusset will prevent
accumulation of moisture between side planking
and this gusset which would result in premature
rot. Install curved sheer clamps and gussets with
five #6 x 1-in. fh screws (Fig. 8) .
Side battens are next. Rip these from two 11-
ft. lengths of 3 /4 x 5 5 /8-in. stock, tapering as in
Fig. 9. Join the pieces end to end with a 3 /4 x 2%-
in. batten as you cli1 the chines and clamps. To
locate where to cut the notches, clamp the battens
t o t he fra m e s e qui di s t a nt be t we e n c hi ne s a nd
clamps and leave the forward end sweep upward
toward the stem beyond #1 frame. Mark and cut
the notches and fasten the side battens with one
#10 x 11/4-in. f h screw at each joint. Fasten the
forward ends to the stem with aluminum
brackets.
Now, make up four 3 /4 x 1 3 /4-in. bottom battens
12 ft. long. Dado saw a 1 /4-in. groove 1 /4-in. deep
lengthwise in the center of a 1 3 /4 in. side for ply-
wood webs (Sec. C-C Fig. 9) to be added later.
Clamp the battens to the frames and transom
bottoms between keel and chines as in (Fig. 9).
Then mark frames and transom for notches, re -
move battens and cut notches 3 /4 in. deep.
When assembling the battens, be sure to place
grooved side toward inside of hull. Fasten with
two #8 x fh screws at each joint. Cover
the exposed ends of the chines, clamps and bat -
tens at the transom with the three outer transom
fra m e pi e c e s (Fi g. 3). Fa s t e n fra m e pi e c e s t o
transom plywood with glue and #8 x 1 3 /4-in. f h
screws, spacing them about 4 in. apart and
staggering.
Fairing the entire framework so that the ply -
wood planking will make contact with the frame
members is your next step. For years a jack
plane, jointer plane and wood rasp have been the
principal tools used for trimming and fairing a
wooden boat framework. Recently, however, two
new tools placed on the market have speeded
up this operation. They are Stanley's S u r f orm file
and rasp plane and the P e r m a - G r i t file put out
by Ski l Sa w.
A 1 /2-in. square batten about 16 ft. long to lay
across the framework is also needed. Bending
the batten to conform to the shape of the frame -
work a nd s i ght i ng unde r t he ba t t e n wi l l re ve a l
how m uc h you wi l l ha ve t o be ve l t he fra m e s ,
chines etc.
Applying Planking. Starting with the bottom
planking, place a 4 x 12-ft. sheet of 3/8-in. plywood
on the framework bottom so that a 4-ft. edge is
flush with the transom and a 12-ft. edge on the
center of the keel. Clamp the plywood in place
and mark along the outer edges of the chine.
The n re m ove t he pl ywood a nd s a w t o m a rke d
shape. Fit this cut out piece of planking by plac -
ing it on the framework bottom on the opposite
side of the keel. If it fits well on this side, use
it as a pattern to mark the plywood for the other
bottom planking side. If it does not fit, mark the
other side as you did the first.
Now, place both planks in position on the
62 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
framework and clamp down. To locate fastening piece of heavy brown paper over the framework at
screw locations, crawl under the framework and the bow and crease it along the edges of the
pencil mark the plywood on each side of the framing with your fingers. Since the center edges
frames and battens. Remove the planks and of these forward pieces of planking cannot be
drill 3 /8-in. holes through the plywood at center brought together edge-to-edge, leave a space be -
between penciled lines at each end. Connect tween as in Fig. 13 to be filled in later. Remove
dri l l e d holes with light pencil l i ne s on out s i de a nd c ut t he pa pe r t o s ha pe , t ra ns fe r out l i ne t o
of planking for bottom frame members and two 3
/8-in. plywood and saw to shape. Since the fore
lines 3/8-in. on each side of center hole for
bottom battens so that screws will not break
through into 1 /4 x 1 /4-in. groove cut in center of
bottom battens.
At this time you should decide if you are
going to cover the hull with fiber glass. Because
fiber glass will not adhere if Kuhl's Bedlast is
used between planking and framework along
chines and transom, glue must be used. On the
other hand if you are not going to fiber glass the
hull, then Bedlast should be used along chines
and transom and glue elsewhere. After applying
glue to frame bottom members and keel, and glue
or Bedlast to chines and transom, place plywood
in position and clamp down. Fasten plywood
planking with #8 x 1 1 /4-in. fh screws spaced 3 in.
apart, stagger screws driven into bottom battens
to miss groove and along chines and transom to
avoid splitting.
To obtain a pattern with which to cut the tri - To fill the gap between the two forward sheets of
angular shaped pieces of plywood needed to bottom planking, add a long tapering strip of 1/4-in.
plank the forward bottom of the hull, place a p l yw o o d as i n d i cated ab o ve.

1958OUTBOARDMOTORCALCULATEDPERFORMANCE
DATA
I-
z
2 cc
LU
HP (ii; RPM

wy 0c.) w
W zer < Z
INCHES

Z L"'
O=
BORE,

we" Lu . etct, Z
WdU

CC
"ON

E.:6E Z - -c cc
-1
c11

cn =7-
1=1
a.1- IC.
Mercury MK-78.. . 70@;5400* .01295• 2.5625 1.06 356,400* 1910' 180 2.57
e0 CO 01 el Tr .1 Q NI OA N N 01 N 041 Cs1 Q C,1 GNI C4 01 Ci

2.125 66
Mercury MK-75 .. 8045400* .01111• 2.4375 2.125 60 1 324,000* 1910' 152 2.53
Flying Scott ........... 60@4800 .01250 3.125 2.75 63.27 .95 303,696 2200 160 2.67
Evinrude V-4.......... 50@4000 .01250 3.0 2.5 70.7 .71 282,800 1666 205 4.1
Johnson V.4........... 50@4000 .01250 3.0 2.5 70.7 .71 282,800 1666 205 4.1
Mercury MK-58 . . . 45@5400• .00833* 2.5625 2.125 44 1 238,000* 1910' 122 2.71
Mercury MK-55 40@5400* .00742* 2.4375 2.125 40 1 216,000* 1910' 111 2.8
BUCCANEER 35 HP
Scott-Atwater......... 40@4800 .00833 3.125 2.75 42 .95 202,464 2200 142 3.55
Firestone................ 38@4800 .00791 3.0625 2.75 40.5 .936 194,448 2200 117 3.08
Buccaneer............... 35@4500 .00771 3.0625 2.75 40.5 .86 182,250 2060 134 3.83
Evinrude................. 3W,4500 .00777 3.0625 2.75 40.5 .86 182,250 2060 138 3.94
Johnson............ 35@4500 .00777 3.0625 2.75 40.5 .86 182,250 2060 138 3.94
Oliver..................... 35@4500 .90777 3.0625 2.875 42 .83 189,000 2160 125 3.57
Sea King "35"........ 35@4500 .00777 3.125 2.75 42 .833 189,000 2060 134 3.83
Wizard.................... 35@4500 .00777 3.0625 2.875 42.35 .828 190,000 2160 125 3.57
Mercury MK-30... 30@5400' .00506' 2.1093 2.125 30 1 162,000' 1910' 110 3.67
Buccaneer............... 25@4000 .00625 2.875 2.75 35.7 .7 142,800 1832 130 5.2
Mercury MK-28 . 22@5400' .00407• 2.5625 2.125 22 1 118,800* 1910' 79 3.59
Scott-Atwater-22 . 22@4800 .00458 2.6875 2.4375 27.65 .795 132,720 1950 119 5.4
Mercury MK-25 20@5400' .00370' 2.4375 2.125 20 1 108,000* 1910* 75 3.75
Evinrude................. 18@4500 .00400 2.5 2.25 22 .818 99,000 1683 77 4.28
Johnson ................. 18@,4500 .00400 2.5 2.25 22 .818 99,000 1683 77 4.28

FIRESTONE 38 HP CONTINUED ON PAGE 66

 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK 63
SIDE AND BOTTOM
JOINT DETAIL

/ CHINE

El SECTION A-A
?STOCK

View of hull shortly after it was taken off of building frame and turned
right-side up. Frames, bulkhead and deck beams retain hull shape.
48 in. of the bottom planking is butt joined to the
side planking (Fig. 15) rather than lapped as it
is along the rest of the chine, check to see that the
sawed edge will fall exactly over the corner
of the chine. Plane fore edge of plywood, if
necessary. Pour hot water on these planking
pieces to make them flexible enough to bend
in place on the framework. Cover with water
soaked rags on both sides to prevent drying.
While the fore planking pieces are soaking, cut
four 4-in. wide strips of 3 /8-in. plywood for
butt blocks where fore and aft planking will join
(Fig. 9 page 59). Cut these strips so that grain
of the outer plies runs across the 4 in. width.
Glue and clamp one of these strips to the fore
end of each piece of planking already fastened to
the hull. Fasten with #6 x 3 /4-in. fh

CARUN MEASURE AND CUT NOTCH AT ASSEMBLY

5,1* 3'
NOTCH
FOR
TRM-4, SHEER
TO RT 16- CLAMP
POSITION 1_
COAMINGS - 2 RM. 5: THICK

T 202• CORNER eOST

AFT /IX 3' CARRIAGE BOLTS

202° CLEAT BOLTED DECK- ' X2" FH SCREWS, 2 EACH JOINT'''\A• d'
TO BULKHEAD BEAM
'
KNEE •
2 TO FIT -,1PLYWOOD STOCK
r DECK FASTENER —*2BULKHEADSHAPE
RED
PLATES

NOTCH CARUN g
FOR SHEER PLATE

48Xli
FH 4-1 X If. CARUN
SCREWS

WEDGE
COWING

36•
s c re ws spaced 4 in. apart. Now gl ue c oa t t he
k e e l , c h i n e , #1 f r a m e a n d b u t t b l o c k f o r t h e
watersoaked triangular pieces of planking, and
fasten in place with #8 x fh screws spaced
3 in. apart. Then reinforce the butt blocks by
gluing the other two strips of 4 in. wide 3 / 8 -in.
plywood on top of the strips you have installed.
Fasten with #8 x 1-in. fh screws spaced 2 in.
a pa rt . After the glue dries, pla ne t he e dge s of
the pl anking flush with the chi ne t o wi t hi n 48
in. of the bow. Start the side planking at the
bow (Fig. 13) and work toward the transom by
b e n d i n g a n d clamping a 4 x 12 ft. sheet of 3/8-
in. p l y w o o d t o t h e f o r e e n d o f t h e
framework. Pencil m a r k a l o n g t h e c h i n e , s h e e r
a n d bow, then remove and saw to shape. Plane the
forward 4 8 i n . a l o n g t h e c h i n e e d g e a t a n
a n g l e s o i t w i l l butt tightly against the edge of
the bottom planking (Fig. 15). Do the same with
the other sheet of plywood for the other side of
the framework. G l u e c o a t a l l c o n t a c t i n g
surfaces and fasten p l a n k i n g i n p l a c e w i t h
# 8 x f l t s c r e w s spaced 3 in. apart along
sheer and chine and
4 in. apart at the frame sides. The aft side
planking pieces, which are 4 x 10 ft. sheets of
3
/8-in. plywood, are then fitted, marked and cut
to shape. Fasten with glue and screws as you
did the planking. Install two 4 in. wide strips
of %-in. plywood for butt straps where the side
planking pieces are joined.
After the glue dries, plane the edges of the
side planking flush with the bottom planking
and stem upright. Then fill in the gap between
the bottom pla nking along the ke e l (Fi g. 13),
w i t h a t a p e r i n g strip of 1/4 in. plywood.
T o d e t e r m i n e the taper at which t o c u t t h e
o u t e r stem piece (Fig. 5, p a g e 5 7 ) , h o l d a
5 ft. length of 2 x
8-in. stock against
the stem upright
and mark along
the edge of the
plywood on each
side. Then saw
on lines and at an
angle to coincide
with the angle of
the planking at the T'
-

bow. Plane the Ig

_± forward side of
this outer stem so