Siren’s Medallion BARBARA FALKOWITZ

Enjoy combining circular peyote stitch with two-

hole seed beads to create an elegant, ocean-hued
medallion suspended by a square-stitch bail and
strung with a netted tube and crystals.

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 3
 1) MEDALLION. Use circular peyote stitch Round 3, first pass: String 2E and pass
TECHNIQUES to form the centerpiece of the necklace: through the outside hole of the next F in
circular peyote stitch Round 1: Use 3’ of thread to string 8E, leav- Round 2; repeat seven times (Fig. 2, blue
square stitch
ing a 4” tail; pass through the beads again thread).
tubular netting
clockwise to form a tight circle. Tie a knot Round 3, second pass: String 2B and pass
tubular herringbone stitch
with the working and tail threads, then through the outside hole of the next F in
ladder stitch
stringing
pass through all the beads again to pull Round 2; repeat seven times. Weave
the tail inside the beads. Trim the tail. through beads to exit from the outside
PROJECT LEVEL  Center: String the 4mm bicone; pass hole of the first E added in this round
MATERIALS clockwise through the inside hole of (Fig. 2, red thread). Note: You will now
1 g silver-lined brown size 15° Japanese seed the E directly opposite the last E exited, begin working counterclockwise.
beads (A) then pass through the outside hole of the Round 4, first pass: String 1G and pass
5 g antique gold–lined clear size 11° Japanese same E (Fig. 1, green thread). through the outside hole of the next E in
seed beads (B) Note: You will now begin working Round 3, then string 1B and pass through
5 g brown-lined smoke iris size 11° Japanese counterclockwise. the outside hole of the following E; repeat
seed beads (C)
Round 2, first pass: String 1F and pass seven times (Fig. 3, orange thread). Note:
1 g nickel silver size 8° Czech seed beads (D)
through the outside hole of the next E The following rounds will partially sit on
2 g olive/brown luster 5×2.5mm 2-hole
seed beads (E) in Round 1; repeat seven times (Fig. 1, top of this pass.
1 g soft blue luster 5×2.5mm 2-hole blue thread). Round 4, second pass: String 4A and pass
seed beads (F) Round 2, second pass: String 1B and pass through the outside hole of the next E in
8 gray luster 3mm fire-polished rounds (G) through the outside hole of the next E in Round 3, the nearest B, and the outside
20 black diamond 6mm fire-polished Round 1; repeat seven times. Weave hole of the following E; repeat seven times.
rounds (H) through beads to exit the outside hole of Weave through beads to step up through
1 indicolite 4mm crystal bicone the nearest F (Fig. 1, red thread). the first 2A added in this round (Fig. 3,
8 amber AB 7×5mm crystal rondelles Note: You will now begin working clock- green thread).
16 antiqued brass 6×1.5mm (small) flower wise. All of the B added to the medallion Round 4, third pass: String 1B and pass
bead caps
should be on the same side of the work as through the nearest 2A/1E/1B/1E/2A;
2 antiqued brass 8×5mm (large) flower
bead caps the bicone. repeat seven times. Weave through beads
2 gold 2×3mm twisted crimp tubes to exit from 1B added in Round 4 (Fig. 3,
1 antiqued brass 9mm round filigree box clasp blue thread).
Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread Bail start: String 1B; pass through the last B
17½" of .014 beading wire exited (Fig. 3, red thread). Secure the
thread and trim.
TOOLS
Scissors
Size 10 beading needle
Wire cutters
Chain-nose pliers
FINISHED SIZE:
14½" (necklace); 1 × 1½" (pendant)

Fig. 1: Adding the center and Round 2 of

the medallion

artist’s tips
❯ You can skip stringing beads and just make
the netted tube for the entire length of the
necklace.
❯ To help the pendant dome, pull tight when
adding the size 11° seed beads in Round 2,
second pass, and Round 3, second pass.

Fig. 2: Stitching Round 3 of the Fig. 3: Forming Round 4 and the bail
medallion start of the medallion

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 4

Fig. 4: Stitching the bail onto
the pendant
2) BAIL. Square-stitch a bail for the
medallion:
Row 1: Start 2’ of new thread that exits from
the B in Round 4 that sits to the left of the
B added at the end of Step 1 (the bail
start). String 2B; pass through the bail-start
B. String 2B; pass through the next B of
Round 4 (Fig. 4, blue thread). Note: This
forms a 7B base for square stitch.
Rows 2–14: Work off of Row 1 to square-
stitch a strip 7B wide and 14 rows long
(Fig. 4, red thread). Don’t trim the thread.
Set the medallion aside.
3) ROPE. Use tubular herringbone stitch and
netting to form the center rope:
Rounds 1 and 2: String 4C; pass through the
beads again to form a tight circle.
Manipulate the beads into 2 stacks of 2C
each. *String 2C; pass down through the
previous 2C and up through the 2C just
added. String 2C; pass up through the pre-
vious 2C and down through the 2C just
added. Repeat from *. Ladder-stitch the
final stack to the first stack to form a ring.
Round 3: String 2C, pass down through the
next top C of Round 2, and up through the
following C; repeat twice. Step up through
the first C added in this round (Fig. 5,
green thread).
Round 4: String 1B, pass down through the
next C of Round 3, and up through the fol-
lowing C; repeat twice. Step up through
the first B added in this round (Fig. 5, blue
thread).
©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com
Fig. 5: Forming Rounds 3–5
of the rope
Fig. 6: Adding Rounds 49–51 of the
rope (shown flat for clarity)
Rounds 5–48: *String 1C, 1B, and 1C, then
pass through the next B added in the pre-
vious round; repeat twice. Step up through
the first 1C/1B added in this round (Fig. 5,
red thread). Repeat from * for 45 rounds
or until the rope is
4” long.
Round 49: String 2C and pass through the
next B of Round 48; repeat twice. Step up
through the first C added in this round
(Fig. 6, green thread).
Round 50: String 2C, pass down through the
next C of the previous round, and up
through the following C; repeat twice. Step Repeat this entire step, reversing the string-
up through the first C added in this round ing order and using the other half of the
(Fig. 6, blue thread). clasp. Wrap the pendant’s bail around the
Round 51: Repeat Round 50 (Fig. 6, rope and square-stitch Row 14 to Rows 1 and 2.
red thread). Secure the thread and trim. ●
Weave a ladder-stitched thread path through
the beads of Rounds 50 and 51 to tighten the BARBARA FALKOWITZ is co-owner of Artful
rope end. Secure the thread and trim. Beads Studio and Workshop in Pennington, New
Jersey. She enjoys teaching and sharing her
4) ASSEMBLY. Use the beading wire to designs with others and especially loves the
string 1 crimp tube and one half of the clasp; challenge of creating new projects. Barbara feels
pass back through the crimp tube and flatten lucky to be a part of the beading world. Contact
it with chain-nose pliers. String 3D. String {1H Barbara at info@artfulbeadstudio.com.
and 1D} three times. *String {1 small bead
cap (outside to inside), 1 rondelle, and 1 small RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or
bead cap (inside to outside), 1D, 1H, and contact: Superduo 2-hole seed beads,
1D}** twice. String 1H and 1D. Repeat from * Swarovski crystal bicones and rondelles,
to **. String {1H and 1D} twice. Repeat from * FireLine braided beading thread, SoftFlex
to ** again. String 1 large bead cap (outside beading wire, and all other materials: Artful
to inside), pass the wire through the center of Beads Studio and Workshop, (609) 737-1077,
the rope, and string the remaining large bead www.artfulbeadstudio.com. Kits: Artful Beads
cap (inside to outside). Studio, www.artfulbeadstudio.etsy.com.
5
 Fleur-de-lis Necklace BARBARA FALKOWITZ AND AMY HAFTKOWYCZ

Like its namesake, this necklace embodies light, life, and

perfection with ornate embellishments made of SuperDuos,
SuperUnos, O beads, and more.

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 6

1) BASE. Use right-angle weave and netting
to build the base of the necklace:
Row 1, Unit 1: Use 3' of thread to string 1J,
1B, 1F, 1B, 1J, 1B, 1H, and 1B, leaving a
2" tail; pass through all of the beads again
and use the tail and working threads to tie
a knot and form a tight circle. Weave
through beads to exit the second J strung
(Fig. 1, purple thread). Secure and trim
the tail thread.
Row 1, Unit 2: String 1B, 1H, 1B, 1J, 1B, 1F,
and 1B; pass through the last J exited and
the 1B/1H/1B/1J just added (Fig. 1, blue
thread).
Row 1, Unit 3: String 1B, 1F, 1B, 1J, 1B, 1H,
and 1B; pass through the last J exited and
the 1B/1F/1B/1J just added (Fig. 2, red
thread).
TECHNIQUES
Row 1, Units 4–24: Repeat Row 1, Units 2 right-angle weave
and 3 ten times, then repeat Row 1, Unit 2 netting
again. fringe
Row 2, Unit 1: String 3B, 1D, and 3B; pass picot
through the next J. String 3B, 1D, and 3B;
PROJECT LEVEL 
pass through the previous J, the first
3B/1D/3B added in this unit, and the next J MATERIALS
(Fig. 2, blue thread). 2 g antiqued bronze size 15° seed beads (A)
Row 2, Units 2–24: Repeat Row 2, Unit 1 5 g matte transparent brown size 11°
twenty-three times (Fig. 2, red thread). seed beads (B)
Center embellishment: Pass through the 2 g matte beige topaz 3.8×1mm O beads (C)
nearest 3B, the first (outside) hole of the 8 g matte copper 5×2.5mm two-hole
SuperDuos (D)
next D, and the second (inside) hole of the
2 g jet bronze 5×2.5mm SuperUnos (E)
current D. String 1A, 1G, and 1A; pass 24 crystal Picasso 6mm Czech flat 2-hole
through the inside hole of the opposite D squares (F)
in the current unit. String 1A, 1G, and 1A; 72 silver luster green 1.5×2mm crystal
pass back through the inside hole of the rondelles (G)
first D exited, the outside hole of the 47 dark bronze 4mm fire-polished rounds (H)
25 green Picasso 8mm pressed-glass
rounds (J)
1 antiqued copper 17mm toggle clasp
7½" of antiqued copper 10×13mm unsoldered
oval chain
Smoke 6 lb FireLine braided beading thread
TOOLS
Scissors
Size 10 beading needle
2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers
FINISHED SIZE
17"

Fig. 1: Working Row 1, Units 1–3

artists’ tips
❯ Start and end threads on
the back of the piece where
they are easier to see.
❯ Keep even tension while
working the initial base
row of right-angle weave
to make sure each section
sits directly next to the
previous one.
❯ Make sure both holes of
each SuperDuo are open
before using them. Fig. 2: Stitching Row 2

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 7

same D, and through the next 3B/1J of the
current unit (Fig. 3, purple thread).
Repeat from the beginning of this embel-
lishment twenty-three times (Fig. 3, blue
thread). Pass through the nearest 1B/1H/
1B/1J of Row 1 (Fig. 3, red thread).
Bottom edge: Turn the beadwork over so
the embellishments are facedown and the
F are along the bottom edge. Pass through
the nearest B and the top (inside) hole of
the nearest F of Row 1. String 2B; pass
through the bottom (outside) hole of the
same F (Fig. 4, green thread; back view of
beadwork shown). String 1H and pass
through the outside hole of the next F in
Row 1; repeat twenty-two times (Fig. 4,
blue thread). String 2B; pass through the
top hole of the same F. Weave through
beads of the end unit to exit the bottom-
right B, then weave back through beads
following the same thread path to work a
turnaround. Pass back through the last 2B
added and the nearest 1F (outside hole)/
1H (Fig. 4, red thread). Turn the beadwork
over so the embellishments are faceup and
the F are along the bottom edge. String 1B,
1C, 1E, 1C, and 1B, then pass through the
©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com
Fig. 3: Working the center embellishment
Fig. 4: Adding the bottom edge
last H exited and the next 1F (outside
hole)/1H; repeat twenty-two times
(Fig. 5, green thread). Weave through
beads to exit the H of Row 1, Unit 24
(Fig. 5, blue thread).
Top fringe: String 1A, 1D, 1A, 1G, and 1A;
pass through the second hole of the D just
added. String 1A and pass through the last
H exited and the next 2B/1H of Row 1
(Fig. 5, red thread). Repeat from the
beginning of this fringe twenty-three
times. After forming the final fringe, weave
through beads to exit down through the
second (right) hole of the last D added
(Fig. 6, purple thread). String 2A, 1C, and
2A, then pass through the first (left) hole of
the next D, the nearest 1A/1G/1A, and the
right hole of the same D; repeat twenty-
two times. Pass through the next A of the
first fringe and the nearest 1B/1J of Row 1
(Fig. 6, blue thread).
2) ASSEMBLY. String 13B and 1 end link of
one 3 3/8" piece of chain; pass through the last
J exited. Pass through the 13B just added and
through the last J exited; repeat twice to rein-
force. Pass through the nearest 1B/1H/1B of
Row 1 (Fig. 6, red thread). Secure the thread
and trim. Attach one half of the clasp to the
other end of the chain by opening and clos-
ing the end link as you would a jump ring.
Add 12" of new thread that exits the end J at
the opposite end of the base; repeat this
entire step. ●
BARBARA FALKOWITZ and
AMY HAFTKOWYCZ , along with Barbara’s
daughter Laina Goodman, are co-owners of
Artful Beads Studio and Workshop in Pennington,
New Jersey, and run an Etsy shop: www.artful
beadstudio.etsy.com. Their signature style of
work often combines a love of beadweaving
techniques with pressed-glass beads and other
interesting findings. Contact Barbara and Amy
at www.artfulbeadstudio.com and
info@artfulbeadstudio.com.
RESOURCES Check your favorite bead
retailer or contact: All materials: Artful
Beads Studio and Workshop, (609) 737-1077,
www.artfulbeadstudio.com, www.artful
beadstudio.etsy.com.
8

CREATE A STYLISH BRACELET by
making the following alterations
to the necklace instructions:
Row 1, All Units: Work only a total
of 15 units and use F in place of H.
Row 2, All Units: String 2B instead
of 3B.
Center embellishment: After pass-
ing through the J at the end,
string 3B; pass through the
outside hole of the nearest F
of Row 1.
Option
Bottom edge: From the outside hole of the
F at the end of the first edge, string 3B;
pass through the J at the end. String 3B;
pass through the outside hole of the oppo-
site F. Instead of working the necklace’s top
fringe, repeat the bottom edge pattern on
the second side. From the outside hole of
the end F, string 3B and then pass through
the end J, the first 3B strung in this step,
the outside hole of the next F, and the
next H. Note: Reinforce the picot to
prevent it from flopping.
Clasp: Exit the J at one end; string 4B
and one half of the clasp. Pass back
through the last B added, string 3B,
and pass through the J. Repeat the
thread path to reinforce.

Fig. 5: Completing
the bottom edge
and starting the
top fringe

Fig. 6: Finishing the top

fringe and assembling
the necklace

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 9
 Icelandia Necklace CHRISTINA NEIT

Resembling an Icelandic sweater, this right-

angle-weave necklace design incorporates two
different two-hole beads.

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 10
TECHNIQUES
right-angle weave
netting
flat and circular peyote stitch
picot
PROJECT LEVEL  1) BASE. Work a row of right-angle weave, stitch. String 3B; pass down through the
MATERIALS
then embellish it with flat peyote stitch, net- left hole and up through the right hole of
1 g copper size 15° seed beads (A) ting, and picots to form the necklace base: the same D (without passing through the
10 g matte metallic purple/olive size 11° seed Row 1, Stitch 1: Use 6' of thread to string a bottom 3B) (Fig. 1, red thread).
beads (B) stop bead, leaving a 12" tail. String 1D Row 1, Stitches 4–149: Repeat Stitches 2
5 g gilt-lined pumpkin opal size 11° seed and 3B; pass up through the second and 3 seventy-three times or to the
beads (C) (right) hole of the D. String 3B; pass down desired length minus 1" for the clasp. Pass
75 peacock 6mm Czech flat 2-hole squares (D) through the first (left) hole of the D and through the fourth B of the final stitch
21 g opaque violet Picasso 5×2.5mm 2-hole up through the right hole (without pass- (the first B at the top of the D).
seed beads (E)
ing through the bottom 3B) (Fig. 1, green Row 2: String 3A, skip 1B of the previous
5 g transparent amethyst 3.4mm drops (F)
thread). row, and pass through the following B,
Smoke 6 or 8 lb braided beading thread
Row 1, Stitch 2: String 1B, 1D, and 1E; pass then string 1F, skip 1B of the previous
TOOLS up through the right hole of the previous row, and pass through the next B; repeat
Scissors D, through the B just added, and down seventy-three times or for the length of
Size 10 and 12 beading needles through the first (left) hole of the D just Row 1. String 3A, skip 1B of the previous
FINISHED SIZE: added (Fig. 1, blue thread). row, and pass through the following 1B/
21" Row 1, Stitch 3: String 3B; pass up through left hole of 1D/2B (Fig. 2).
the right hole of the D in the previous

artist’s tip
❯ If you have trouble finding peacock
Fig. 1: Forming Row 1, two-hole squares similar to those
Stitches 1–3 of the base Christina used, substitute them with
CzechMate squares in the color and
finish of your choice.

Fig. 2: Stitching Row 2

of the base

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 11
 Row 3: String 1C; pass through the bottom
(second) hole of the nearest E. String 3C;
pass through the bottom hole of the E
again to form a net. String 1C, skip 1B of
Row 1, and pass through the following B.
Repeat from the beginning of this row sev-
enty-three times. Pass through the next B
of Row 1 and under the thread between Fig. 3: Adding Rows 3
beads of Row 1, then weave through and 4 of the base
beads to exit back through the center C of
the last net (Fig. 3, blue thread).
Row 4: String 1B, 2E, and 1B, then pass
through the center C of the next net in
Row 3; repeat seventy-two times (Fig. 3,
red thread).
Row 5: String 4B; pass through the bottom
(second) hole of the last E added, then Fig. 4: Working Rows 5
string 1C and pass through the bottom and 6 of the base
hole of the next E. String 1E and pass
through the bottom hole of the following
E, then string 1C, and pass through the
bottom hole of the next E; repeat seventy-
one times. Pass back through the nearest B
of Row 4 (near the top of the final E exited)
and the center C of the nearest net in
Row 3. String 4B; pass back through the
bottom hole of the last E exited (Fig. 4,
blue thread).
Row 6: String 3B; pass through the bottom
(second) hole of the last E exited and back
through the nearest C of Row 5. *String 2B;
pass through the bottom hole of the next
E in Row 5. String 3B; pass through the
bottom hole of the last E exited. String 2B; 2) CLASP BAR. Use flat peyote stitch to Zip: Fold the strip so the first and last rows
pass back through the following C. Repeat form a tube, then connect it to the necklace: interlock like a zipper. Weave the beads
from * seventy-one times, then pass back Strip: Use 18" of thread to peyote-stitch a together to form a seamless tube. Exit out
through the bottom hole of the next E of strip 14B wide and 12 rows long, leaving a through one end of the tube.
Row 4. String 3B; pass back through the 4" tail. Ends: String 1F; pass through the center of
bottom hole of the last E exited and the the tube. String 1F; pass back through the
first 4B of Round 5. Secure the working
thread and trim it; don’t trim the tail thread
(Fig. 4, red thread).

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 12
 Fig. 5: Attaching the
clasp bar to the end of
the necklace
center of the tube and through the first F
(Fig. 5, yellow thread), then pull tight;
repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure
the thread and trim. Set the tube aside.
Connect: Remove the stop bead from the
tail thread of the base and add a needle.
String 6B; pass up through the left hole of
the last D exited and through the first 4B
just added (Fig. 5, green thread). String
2B, 1C, 1E, 1C, and 2B; pass through the
side of the tube (between beads) in the
center (Fig. 5, blue thread). String 1A;
pass back through the side of the tube.
String 2B and 1C; pass through the second
(top) hole of the last E added. String 1C
and 2B; pass through the third and fourth
B of the 6B in the beginning of this section
(Fig. 5, red thread). Repeat the thread
path several times to reinforce. Secure the
thread and trim.
©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com
Fig. 6: Forming the
clasp loop
3) CLASP LOOP. Use circular peyote stitch
to form the clasp loop:
Loop connector: Start 12" of new thread
that exits up through the right hole of the
D at the free end of the base. String 6B;
pass up through the right hole of the last D
exited and through the first 4B just added
(Fig. 6, yellow thread).
Loop, Rounds 1 and 2: String 23B; pass
through the last 3B exited in the loop con-
nector and the first B just added (Fig. 6,
green thread).
Loop, Round 3: String 1B, skip 1B of the pre-
vious round, and pass through the next B;
repeat ten times. Weave through beads to
exit from the first B added in this round
(Fig. 6, blue thread).
Loop, Round 4: String 1A, 1C, and 1A, then
pass through the next B of Round 3; repeat
nine times (Fig. 5, red thread). Secure the
thread and trim. ●
Influenced by Native American beadwork,
CHRISTINA NEIT started beading and
incorporating porcupine quills in 2004. Since
then her work and teaching has evolved, and she
continues to challenge herself. To see Christina’s
finished work and tutorials or to contact her, visit
www.goodquillhunting.com.
RESOURCES Check your favorite bead
retailer or contact: Seed beads, Miyuki drops,
Superduo 2-hole seed beads, and FireLine
braided beading thread: Out On A Whim, (800)
232-3111, www.whimbeads.com. Alternative
CzechMates 2-hole squares: Artbeads.com,
(866) 715-2323, or FusionBeads.com, (888)
781-3559.
13
 Aurora Borealis Collar SHERRY LESTER

Use seed and bugle beads to bead-embroider

this beautiful collar in iridescent hues of the
northern lights. It has a unique strap that
makes putting it on a breeze.

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 14
 1) BEADING BASE. Form the collar’s Ultrasuede edge (Fig. 1, purple thread).
TECHNIQUES foundation: Clasp rings: Turn the work over and *trim
backstitch bead embroidery Ultrasuede: Make a photocopy of Fig. 1. Use the 1�8" of interfacing excess from one tip of
fringe
the marker to trace the outline of the pur- the interfacing. Start 8" of new thread that
brick stitch
ple-shaded area in Fig. 1 onto the exits 1�8" from the end and securely stitch
stringing
Ultrasuede by making dots every ¼" along the ring half of 1 toggle clasp to the back
PROJECT LEVEL  the outside edge of the pattern. Note: of the Ultrasuede and interfacing. Secure
MATERIALS
Trace the pattern near one of the corners the thread and trim. Repeat from * for the
2 g opaque purple iris size 11° seed beads (A) of the Ultrasuede square, as you will need other end using the ring half of the other
20 g transparent lavender/purple AB size 8° to cut another pattern from this piece for toggle clasp (Fig. 2).
seed beads (B) the necklace backing. Cut out the pattern.
7 g metallic purple iris 6mm or 7mm twisted Place the flat oval in the center of the 2) CENTER OVAL. Attach the flat oval, then
bugle beads (C) trimmed Ultrasuede and trace it in the frame it with backstitch bead embroidery:
8 metallic purple iris 4mm fire-polished same fashion, but don’t trim. Oval: Turn the work over. Center the flat oval
rounds (D)
Interfacing: Place the Ultrasuede pattern on on the previously drawn pattern. Place a
5 purple 5×7mm cat’s-eye ovals (E)
the interfacing. Draw a cutting line 1�8" small amount of glue on the back of the flat
1 smoke AB 13×16mm faceted glass flat oval
larger than the edge of the pattern all the oval and press it into position; let dry. Start
6 × 7" piece of light purple Ultrasuede
6 × 7" piece of lightweight to medium-weight
way around (Fig. 1, black outline). Cut the 3' of new thread that exits up through the
nonfusible interfacing pattern along the cutting line. interfacing and Ultrasuede (the base), near
2 silver-plated 12mm fancy toggle clasps Connect: Position the Ultrasuede pattern on the oval’s hole. Pass through the oval and
1 silver-plated 6×12mm lobster clasp with top of the interfacing, leaving the stitch into the base on the other end.
7×10mm ring 1�8" interfacing edge showing on all sides Repeat the thread path several times to
4 sterling silver 2mm crimp tubes and taking care that the traced oval is on secure (Fig. 1, green thread). Pass up
14" of gray .019 beading wire the top of the work. Use the beading through the base to exit near the oval’s
Purple size D nylon beading thread thread to baste the interfacing and edge.
Clear jeweler's craft adhesive Ultrasuede together ¼" from the
TOOLS
Scissors
Size 12 beading needle
Crimping pliers
Extrafine-point permanent marker
Wire cutters
Chain-nose pliers (optional)
FINISHED SIZE
18"

Fig. 1: Preparing the base, placing

the oval, and stitching the inner
and outer rings

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 15
 Fig. 2: Adding the clasp rings
Inner ring: *String 2B; lay the strand down
against the edge of the oval and pass
down through the base near the last B’s
hole. Pass up through the base between
the 2B just added and pass through the
second B strung. Repeat from * around the
edge to backstitch a ring around the oval
(Fig. 1, blue thread). Pass through all the
beads again to tighten, then pass down
through the base. Exit up through the base
outside of the ring just formed.
Outer ring: Backstitch another circle around
the inner circle, this time adding 1E at the
west, northwest, north, northeast, and east
points of the oval, interspersed with 1B
between each E. Continue backstitching
around the bottom of the circle with all B
(Fig. 1, red thread). Pass through the beads of
this ring again to tighten. Secure the thread
and trim.
artist’s tip
❯ To avoid knot bumps in the project,
start new threads by making a
sideways stitch through the back of
the base, leaving a 1" tail. Fold the tail
over and make many tiny stitches over
the tail until the thread is secure.
©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com
Fig. 3: Backstitching the bugle beads
3) BUGLE BEADS. Use backstitch bead
embroidery to add two rows of twisted bugle
beads:
Bugles: Start 3' of new thread that exits up
through the base, near the bottom of the E
on the east side of the oval. String 1C; lay it
down along the outer ring and pass down
into the base at the bottom edge of the C.
Pass up through the base one bead’s width
away from the last exit point. String 1C; lay
it down parallel to the last C placed and
pass down through the base. Pass up
through the base to again pass through
the C just added. String 1C; lay it down
next to the nearest E, pass down through
the base, and up through the base one
bead’s width away from the last exit point
(Fig. 3). Continue backstitching rows of 2C
along the bottom edge of the base, stair-
stepping the C so the rows flow nicely and
keep a consistent distance from the base
edge. When room lessens toward the
base’s tip, work just 1 row of C. Repeat to
mirror the bugle rows on the other side of
the oval. Secure the thread and trim.
Fill: Start 18" of new thread that exits below
the first C added on the right side of the
base. Backstitch a row of A along the bot-
tom of the oval’s outer ring, between the C
on the right and the C on the left (Fig. 4).
Secure the thread and trim.
Fig. 4: Adding the fill below the oval rings
artist’s tip
❯ When finishing a thread, secure it to
the back of the base by making several
reverse-direction stitches, with a
hidden pass up through the beadwork.
4) FRINGE. Start 3' of new thread that exits
up through the base near the left tip. *String
1B and 1A; pass back through the B and
down through the base. Pull tight to form a
fringe. Pass up through the base one bead’s
width away from the last fringe placed
(Fig. 5). Repeat from * to tightly fill the open
space on the base above the rows of C and
the oval rings; then repeat on the right side
of the necklace. Secure the thread and trim.
5) BACKING. Place the beaded base on the
remaining Ultrasuede (backing). Press the
beadwork down so the base is flat. Use the
marker to draw a dotted line along the edge
of the base to create a cutting line, working
from the center out to the edges and ends to
avoid any distortion. Cut out the pattern.
Note: Once the backing is added, any repairs
to the beadwork will be very difficult, so now
is the time to check for any loose beads or
stitch errors.
16
6) EDGING. Start 6' of new thread that
exits from the edge of the base, at the top of
the left tip. Place the backing underneath
the base. String 2B; sew through the edge of
the base and the backing and pass back
through the second B just added (Fig. 6,
blue thread). *String 1B; sew through the
edge of the base and the backing, one
bead’s width from the last stitch, and pass
back through the B just added (Fig. 6, red
thread). Repeat from * around the bead-
work edge to connect the base and backing.
Stitch the final and first B together to finish
the edging. Secure the thread and trim.
7) NECKLACE. Use 7" of beading wire to
string 1 crimp tube and the bar half of
1 toggle clasp; pass back through the tube
and crimp. String 1B. String {1A, 1C, 1A, 1B,
1A, 1C, 1A, and 1D} four times. String 1A, 1C,
1A, 1B, 1 crimp tube, and the lobster clasp;
pass back through the tube and crimp. Place
the toggle bar through a ring at the tip of the
beadwork.
Repeat this entire step on the other side of
the necklace using the bar half of the other
toggle clasp and the lobster-clasp ring. ●
©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com
SHERRY LESTER has been designing jewelry
Fig. 5: Forming
since 1971, when she discovered wire came in
the first fringe
different gauges. She went from curling wire to
adding beads, to stringing beads, to weaving
beads, and now, to bead embroidery. Contact
Sherry at mamalester@yahoo.com and visit her
web store at www.etsy/shop/mamalester.com.
RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or
contact: Seed beads: Anita’s Beads, (603)
522-6529, www.anitabeads.com. Bugle beads,
cat’s-eye ovals, and findings: Fire Mountain
Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www
.firemountaingems.com. Similar faceted glass
flat oval: Mamalesters Tangents, (603)
755-4401, www.etsy/shop/mamalester.com.
Ultrasuede: Suede Shop, www.etsy/shop/
suedeshop.com. Pellon interfacing: Jo-Ann
Fabric and Craft Stores, www.joann.com.
Fig. 6: Brick-stitching
artist’s tips the edging to
connect the layers
❯ Don’t be concerned with
how the stitching looks on
the back side of the base. It
will be completely hidden
later by the Ultrasuede
backing.
❯ Interchange the necklace
straps with ribbons for a
different look.
17
 techniques
BRICK STITCH
Stitch a foundation row in one- or two-
needle ladder stitch. String 2 beads and pass under the
closest exposed loop of the foundation row and back
through the second bead. String 1 bead and pass under
the next exposed loop and back through the bead just
strung; repeat.
To decrease within a row, string 1 bead and skip a loop of
thread on the previous row, passing under the second
loop and back through the bead.
To increase within a row, work 2 stitches in the same loop
on the previous row.
For circular brick stitch, work increases as needed to keep
the work flat; at the end of each round, pass through the
first and last beads to stitch them together, then string
2 beads to begin the next round.
For tubular brick stitch, join a ladder-stitched foundation
row into a ring by passing through the first and last beads
of the row, with the holes facing up. *String 1 bead and
pass under the closest exposed loop of the foundation
ring. Pass back through the same bead and repeat, adding
1 bead at a time. Finish the round by passing down
through the first bead and up through the last bead of the
current round, then string 2 beads to begin the next
round.
SQUARE STITCH
String a row of beads. For the second row, string 2 beads;
pass through the second-to-last bead of the first row and
through the second bead just strung. Continue by string-
ing 1 bead, passing through the third-to-last bead of the
first row, and passing through the bead just strung. Repeat
this looping technique to the end of the row.
©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com
RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE
For one-needle right-angle weave, string 4 beads and
pass through the first 3 beads again to form the first unit.
For the rest of the row, string 3 beads and pass through
the last bead exited in the previous unit and the first
2 beads just strung; the thread path will resemble a series
of figure eights, alternating direction with each unit. To
begin the next row, pass through beads to exit from the
top bead of the last unit. String 3 beads and pass through
the last bead exited and the first bead just strung. *String
2 beads; pass back through the next top bead of the previ-
ous row, the last bead exited in the previous unit, and the
2 beads just strung. Pass through the next top bead of the
previous row. String 2 beads; pass through the last bead of
the previous unit, the top bead just exited, and the first
bead just strung. Repeat from * to complete the row, then
begin a new row as before.
To begin two-needle right-angle weave, add a needle to
each end of the thread. Use one needle to string 3 beads
and slide them to the center of the thread. *Use one nee-
dle to string 1 bead, then pass the other needle back
through it. String 1 bead on each needle, then repeat from
* to form a chain of right-angle-weave units. To turn at the
end of the row, use the left needle to string 3 beads, then
cross the right needle back through the last bead strung.
Use the left needle to string 3 beads, then cross the right
needle back through the last bead strung. To continue the
row, use the right needle to string 2 beads; pass the left
needle through the next bead on the previous row and
back through the last bead strung.
STRINGING
Stringing is a technique that uses beading wire, needle
and thread, or other material to gather beads into a strand.
NETTING
String a base row of 13 beads. String 5 beads and pass back
through the fifth bead from the end of the base row. String
another 5 beads, skip 3 beads of the base row, and pass
back through the next bead; repeat to the end of the row.
To turn, pass back through the last 3 beads (one leg of the
last net). String 5 beads, pass back through the center
bead of the next net, and continue.
For circular netting, string {1A and 1B} six times; pass
through them again to form a circle for the foundation
round and pass through the next 1B. *String 1A, 1B, and 1A;
skip 3 beads and pass through the following bead in the
previous round to form a “net.” Repeat from * twice, then
step up for the next round by passing through the first
2 beads of the first net. String 2A, 1B, and 2A; pass through
the middle bead of the nearest net in the previous round.
Repeat twice, then step up for the next round by passing
through the first 3 beads of this round. Work each round
the same way, increasing the number of A beads as nec-
essary to keep the work flat, and stepping up by passing
through the first half of the first net.
LADDER STITCH
For one-needle ladder stitch, string 2 beads and pass
through them again. Manipulate the beads so their sides
touch. String 1 bead. Pass through the last bead added
and the bead just strung. Repeat, adding 1 bead at a time
and working in a
figure-eight pattern.
BACKSTITCH BEAD EMBROIDERY
Tie a knot at the end of the thread. Pass up through the
foundation from back to front. *String 4 beads and lay
them against the foundation. Pass down through the foun-
dation next to the last bead added. Pass up through the
foundation between the second and third beads just
added, then pass through the third and fourth beads.
Repeat from *.
18
 techniques
PEYOTE STITCH
For one-drop even-count flat peyote stitch, string an
even number of beads to create the first two rows. Begin
the third row by stringing 1 bead and passing back
through the second-to-last bead of the previous row.
String another bead and pass back through the fourth-to-
last bead of the previous row. Continue adding 1 bead at a
time, passing over every other bead of the previous row.
Two-drop peyote stitch is worked the same as one-drop
peyote stitch, but with 2 beads at a time instead of 1 bead.
For odd-count flat peyote stitch, string an uneven num-
ber of beads to create Rows 1 and 2. String 1 bead, skip the
last bead strung, and pass through the next bead. Repeat
across the row (this is Row 3). To add the last bead, string
1 bead and knot the tail and working threads, clicking all
beads into place. Start the next row (Row 4) by passing
back through the last bead added. Continue in peyote
stitch, turning as for even-count at the end of this and all
even-numbered rows. At the end of all odd-numbered
rows, add the last bead, pass under the thread loop at the
edge of the previous rows, and pass back through the last
bead added.
Begin a midproject peyote-stitch increase by working a
stitch with 2 beads in one row. In the next row, work
1 bead in each stitch, splitting the pair of beads in the pre-
vious row. For a smooth increase, use very narrow beads
for both the two-drop and the one-drop between.
©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com
To make a midproject peyote-stitch decrease, simply
pass the thread through 2 beads without adding a bead
in the “gap.” In the next row, work a regular one-drop
peyote stitch over the decrease. Work with tight tension
to avoid holes.
For circular peyote stitch, string 3 beads and knot the tail
and working threads to form the first round; pass through
the first bead strung. For the second round, string
2 beads and pass through the next bead of the previous
round; repeat twice. To step up to the third round, pass
through the first bead of the current round. For the third
round, string 1 bead and pass through the next bead of
the previous round; repeat around, then step up at the end
of the round. Continue in this manner, alternating the two
previous rounds. It may be necessary to adjust the bead
count, depending on the relative size of the beads, to keep
the circle flat.
For even-count tubular peyote stitch, string an even
number of beads and knot the tail and working threads to
form the first 2 rounds; pass through the first 2 beads
strung. To work Round 3, string 1 bead, skip 1 bead, and
pass through the next bead; repeat around until you have
added half the number of beads in the first round. Step up
through the first bead added in this round. For the follow-
ing rounds, string 1 bead and pass through the next bead
of the previous round; repeat, stepping up at the end of
each round.
Work odd-count tubular peyote stitch the same as even-
count tubular peyote stitch; however, it isn’t necessary to
step up at the end of each round.
HERRINGBONE STITCH
Form a foundation row of one- or two-needle even-count
ladder stitch and exit up through the final bead. String
2 beads, pass down through next bead in the ladder, and
pass up through the following bead; repeat to the end of
the row. Step up for the next row by wrapping the thread
around previous threads to exit up through the last bead
strung. To form the next row, string 2 beads and pass
down through the second-to-last bead of the previous row
and up through the following bead. Repeat, stringing
2 beads per stitch, passing down then up through 2 beads
of the previous row and stepping up as before. The 2-bead
stitch will cause the beads to angle in each column, like a
herringbone fabric.
Begin tubular herringbone stitch with a foundation ring
of one- or two-needle even-count ladder stitch. String
2 beads. Pass down through the next bead and up through
the following bead in the ladder. Repeat around the ring.
At the end of the round, pass through the first beads of the
previous and current rounds to step up to the new round.
FRINGE
Exit from the foundation row of beads or fabric. String a
length of beads plus 1 bead. Skipping the last bead, pass
back through all the beads just strung to form a fringe leg.
Pass back into the foundation row or fabric.
PICOT
A picot is a decorative net, most often made with 3 beads,
used to embellish a beadwork surface.
19
 More Resources:

eBOOK eBOOK eBOOK

click here click here click here

https://www.facebook.com/Interweave

http://www.pinterest.com/interweave/

https://twitter.com/InterweaveCraft

©F+W Media, Inc. | All rights reserved | F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use | www.interweave.com 20