Aet LG

You might also like

Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 42

AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL

TESTING
(AET)

Learner Guide
TABLE OF CONTENTS

ABOUT THIS SERIES PAGE 1

PROGRAMME AET-1: TESTING THE STARTER CIRCUIT


OBJECTIVES PAGE 3
OVERVIEW OF THE STARTING CIRCUIT PAGE 4
HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS PAGE 7
STARTER TYPES PAGE 8
THE COMPLETE STARTING CIRCUIT PAGE 9
SELF-TEST NO. 1 PAGE 10
FAULT DIAGNOSIS PAGE 12
SELF-TEST NO. 2 PAGE 15
FAULT DIAGNOSIS (CONTINUED) PAGE 16
SELF-TEST NO. 3 PAGE 18
MAINTENANCE PAGE 19

PROGRAMME AET-2: TESTING THE A.C. CHARGING CIRCUIT


OBJECTIVES PAGE 21
OVERVIEW OF THE A.C. CHARGING CIRCUIT PAGE 22
SELF-TEST NO. 1 PAGE 26
FAULT DIAGNOSING PAGE 27
SELF-TEST NO. 2 PAGE 30
FAULT DIAGNOSING (CONTINUED) PAGE 31
SELF-TEST NO. 3 PAGE 33
MAINTENANCE PAGE 34

MODEL ANSWERS TO SELF-TESTS PAGE 35

CONTACT DETAILS:
https://techav.co.za
info@techav.co.za
ABOUT THIS SERIES

This series on Automotive Electrical Testing procedures has been designed to assist you, as
the learner auto mechanics and auto electricians, to do the following:
o Provide you with a practical overview of the starting systems.
o Provide you with a practical overview of the charging system.
o Demonstrate simple but effective procedures in testing and correcting faults that will
inevitably occur (at some time or another) in both the starting system and the
charging system.

This series consists of a video programmes namely:


AET-1 Testing the Starter Circuit.
AET-2 Testing the A.C Charging Circuit.

Accompanying the video programme is the workbook which is intended to guide you
through each programme.

Please read through this workbook before you view the video as this will assist you to fully
understand the subjects discussed.

Back to Table of Contents 1


AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL
TESTING PROCEDURES

AET-1
PROGRAMME NO. 1

Back to Table of Contents 2


PROGRAMME NO. 1
THE STARTING SYSTEM

In this programme you will be given an overview of a typical automotive starting system.
Following the overview we shall demonstrate how to perform a systematic check of the
complete system.

OBJECTIVES
When you have completed this programme you will be able to:
o Identify by name all the major components of a typical starting system.
o Describe the function or purpose of all components.
o Using basic test instruments you will be able to "pin point" any trouble spot
anywhere in the starting system.
o You will be able to rectify commonly encountered problems in the circuit.

Proceed now by first reading through the notes beginning on the following page.

Back to Table of Contents 3


PART ONE
OVERVIEW OF THE STARTING CIRCUIT

The first section of the video(AET-1) covers the parts and functions of a typical (12 volt
system) starting circuit. The following notes and diagrams are intended to assist you when
you are performing practical work.

THE SYSTEM (CIRCUIT)

1. A battery.

2. A D.C. high-torque electric motor known simply as


the "starter".

3. An electrical switching unit known as a "solenoid".


Most modern starters are of the pre-engaged
design and the solenoid is mounted directly onto
the motors "end frame" (Fig. 3a).

Inertia type starters use a remotely mounted solenoid


(Fig. 3b.).

Back to Table of Contents 4


4. The fourth unit is a starter / ignition switch - a
multi-purpose switch which activates the ignition,
accessories and the starter solenoid.

The diagram (Fig 5) represents how typically the four units


are linked together to form the circuit.

Shown alongside (Fig 6) is an electrical schematic of a


typical circuit.

You will notice that the four elements are


connected via electric cables. The cables connecting
the battery to the solenoid, and the solenoid to the
starter, are "heavy" (i.e. large in the cross sectional
size). These heavy cables are known as the
"insulated line". In modern vehicles the insulated
line is connected via the "+" (i.e. the positive) post
of the battery.

NB: Always connect this way if vehicle is


equipped with an "alternator".

Back to Table of Contents 5


Current flow, back to source (i.e. to the battery
negative), returns via the vehicles body or chassis
and is referred to as the Earth, or Return Line (as
shown by arrows).

Note that a connecting cable, called the "bonding


strap", assists to complete the earth-line on units
which have engines and transmissions on rubber
mountings. The bonding strap effectively "earths"
the starter, which is attached to the engine" to the
body.

Back to Table of Contents 6


HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS

To operate the starter ... the driver has to turn the start /
ignition switch fully (usually far right). This closes the
"solenoid" circuit and a low amperage current will flow
into a "winding" inside the solenoid.

A magnetic field builds up in the windings. Placed in this


field is a plunger (metal core) which carries a "bridging
contact plate" (see Fig.11). Magnetic forces react with
the plunger causing it to try and move out of the field.
This movement brings the bridging contact into contact
with the "BAT" and "STA" terminals, which effectively
closes the circuit between the battery (BAT) and the
starter (STA) main terminal. Full battery current now
flows across the bridging contact and into the starter
"main" terminal.

Upon release of the start/ignition switch ... the solenoid


circuit opens and the magnetic field collapses. A strong
spring returns the plunger back to its "rest" position
which in turn opens the BAT and STA connection.

Back to Table of Contents 7


STARTER TYPES

1. INERTIA TYPE
The starter motor is activated via the solenoid. As the
motor shaft rotates a "bendix drive" is thrown into
mesh with the flywheels "ring gear" (Fig.13).

2. PRE-ENGAGED STARTER
In this type the solenoid is used to pull the
"pinion gear" into mesh with the ring
gear.

This action occurs slightly before the


solenoids' bridging contact closes the
battery to starter main connection.

A small "clutch" is normally fitted to the


pinion to prevent the engine from driving
the starter before it has time to
disengage.

Back to Table of Contents 8


THE COMPLETE STARTING CIRCUIT

YOU ARE NOW READY TO WATCH THE VIDEO UP TO REVIEW BREAK NO. 1.

(PLEASE ENSURE THAT YOU ARE IN POSSESSION OF TECH A.V. VIDEO ENTITLED AET-1).

Back to Table of Contents 9


SELF TEST NO. 1
AET-1: PART ONE

Before we continue to the fault diagnosing procedure can you answer the following
questions without looking back to the notes?

QUESTIONS YES NO

1. The four main components of a typical starter circuit are:


i) _______________________________________________
ii) _______________________________________________
iii) _______________________________________________
iv) _______________________________________________

2. The insulated line consists of:


i) _______________________________________________
ii) _______________________________________________

3. Vehicles with an alternator must always have the main insulated


cable connected to the _____________________ battery post.

4. What is the purpose of a "bonding strap"?


ANS: ________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________

5. Can you sketch a typical starter circuit? (Use the block space below)

NOW CHECK YOUR RESPONSES FROM THE NOTES.

Back to Table of Contents 10


PART TWO
FAULT DIAGNOSIS

The second part of the video demonstrates the systematic procedures for conducting a full
check out on a 12 volt starting system.

Note that if you follow these procedures, in order, you will definitely locate any problem
that may exist.

Perhaps the commonest starter problem is that of the starter motor not turning or "clicking"
solenoid. The procedures we shall now describe can be used whenever you suspect the
problem is an electrical one, rather than a mechanical problem.

PREPARATION

Question: What tools and equipment will you


require?

Answer: Normal hand tools, a 0 – 40v voltmeter


and a hydrometer.

PROCEDURE

FIRST STEP
Test the battery, it must be at least 70% charged, if
not:

Action
Have the battery charged or replaced before
continuing.

Back to Table of Contents 11


SECOND STEP
o Ensure all connections to the battery are clean
and secure.

o Ensure all connections to the body or chassis


are clean and secure.

Having ensured a charged battery and good electrical


connections -does the starter motor now operate?

Yes: Then you have solved the problem.


No: Then move on to the next procedures.

THIRD STEP
Now we'll check the voltages during cranking (or
attempting to).

o Connect voltmeter across both battery


terminals.

(Remove L.T. wire to distributor for next


tests to prevent coil overheating and
engine starting).

o Crank engine (i.e. turn ignition to "start")


and observe voltage.

Reading should be no less than 9,5 volts.

Action
If below 9,5 volts replace battery with a known
good unit and repeat test.
If still below 9,5 volts then the starter motor draw
is excessive. Remove starter for a full test on
bench.

Back to Table of Contents 12


If battery is 9,5 volts or better move on to next step.

FOURTH STEP
Now we are looking for voltage at the small terminal
of the solenoid.

o Connect your voltmeter as shown opposite.

o Operate the start switch and observe


voltmeter (Vm).

Is the reading the same as when you checked the


battery voltage?

Yes: Then solenoid circuit is O.K.


No: If lower, then a fault is in the ignition / starter
switch circuit.

Action

Check all wiring and connections and repair as


necessary (see circuit opposite).

FIFTH STEP
Now we move along to check the voltage at the
main starter terminal. Connect the Vm as shown.

• Operate ignition / starter switch and


observe Vm.

Is the reading approximately the same as the


battery tested voltage (i.e. no more than 0,5
volts or lower)?

Yes: Then starter circuit is O.K.


No: Reading is 9 volts or less then more
testing is required.

YOU ARE NOW READY TO VIEW THE VIDEO UP TO REVIEW BREAK NO. 2.

Back to Table of Contents 13


SELF TEST NO.2
AET-1: PART TWO

Before we continue to the next of fault finding can you answer the following without
referring to your notes or the video.

QUESTIONS YES NO

1. What condition must the battery be in before you can perform


any checks?
ANS: _________________________________________________

2. What minimum voltage should the battery give whilst the starter
is being activated? (12 volt system)
ANS: _________________________________________________

3. If with a new or reliable battery you still have a reading below


the required voltage, what can you suspect?
ANS: _________________________________________________

4. What minimum voltage should you have on the starter main


terminal? (12 volt system)
ANS: _________________________________________________

NOW CHECK YOUR ANSWERS.

Back to Table of Contents 14


PART TWO CONTINUED
FAULT DIAGNOSING

We continue our procedural check out of the systems assuming that we obtained a lower
than normal voltage at the starter main terminal, and we want to confirm that the rest of
the system is in order.

1. CHECKING THE INSULATED LINE


Connect your Vm across the main battery cable as shown in
the diagram opposite. Operate the starter and observe
voltage, which should read 0 volts.

If a voltage (0,5 or more) is read, then:

Action

Remove and clean the terminals at both ends of the main


cable and the link strap.

(NB: Make sure to first disconnect battery earth thus


preventing accidental flash to ground).

2. CHECKING THE SOLENOID


To ensure a good internal connection of the solenoid
bridge connect the Vm between the BAT and STA
terminals (shown opposite).

Operate the starter and check Vm. There should be a "Ov"


(zero) reading.

If reading is present (in excess of 0,25 volt), then:

Action

Replace the solenoid as the contacts are creating a


resistance.

Back to Table of Contents 15


CHECKING EARTH I RETURN LINE

We need make only one check which involves


connecting your Vm between battery negative (-)
and a good earth point on the starter motor body.

o Crank starter and observe Vm, there should


be Ov (zero) reading.
o
o If a reading (+0,25 volts) is present, then:

Action

o Check and clean the earth strap between


battery (negative) and chassis.

o Check and clean the bonding strap terminals


at both ends.

YOU ARE NOW READY TO WATCH THE VIDEO UP TO REVIEW BREAK NO. 3.

Back to Table of Contents 16


SELF TEST NO. 3
AET-1: PART TWO CONTINUED

We have now completed the system check on procedure - can you now answer the
following questions?

QUESTIONS YES NO

1. If a voltage is recorded in excess of 0,5 volts across the battery


positive (+) and starter main terminal what could be the
problem?
ANS: _________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________

2. How would you diagnose a high resistance over the solenoid


bridge contact?
ANS: _________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________

3. If a voltage is present between the battery negative terminal and


the starter motor body what needs to be done?
ANS: _________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________

NOW CHECK YOUR ANSWERS.

Back to Table of Contents 17


PART THREE
MAINTENANCE

In this final section we shall describe the most usual reasons for starter circuit problems.

1. BAD ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS


o An electrical connection is only "good" if current
can flow, un-resisted, between connections.
o Anything that gets in the way of the flow is called a
resistance.
o Resistance can be caused by dirt, corrosion, paint
etc.
o A loose connection results in a gap and the current
has to try and "jump" the gap -resulting in a spark
and then erosion.
o The low voltage (12v) cannot jump a large gap -so a
loose connection usually just cuts the circuit -a
common problem.

Remedy
o Make a point of keeping all electrical connections
clean and tight.
o Scrape away paint to reveal a bright metal surface
for terminals on chassis or body.
o Coat secured terminals with petroleum jelly
(Vaseline), grease or "battery-post gel" to keep out
moisture

BATTERY
An old or neglected battery is often the cause of most
electrical problems. Unless a battery is at least 70% charged
it cannot supply the high amperage required by the starter
motor. Only a full battery test can reveal the batteries
condition and "capacity". To learn about this you'll have to
work through Tech A.V.'s battery maintenance programme
(LAB series). Our final tip is this -unless the battery is
reliable don't even bother to carry on testing any electrical
system as all electrical test begin at the battery.

Back to Table of Contents 18


AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL
TESTING PROCEDURES
AET-2 PROGRAMME NO. 2

Back to Table of Contents 19


PROGRAMME NO. 2
THE A.C. CHARGING SYSTEM

In this programme you will be given an overview of a typical automotive charging system
featuring the AC. generator most commonly known as the alternator charging system.

Following the overview we shall demonstrate how to perform a systematic check of the
complete system.

OBJECTIVES
When you have completed this programme you will be able to:
o Identify by name all the main components of a typical AC. charging system.
o Describe the function or purpose of the main components.
o Use basic test equipment in diagnosing faults to eliminate any "hit and miss"
methods.
o Rectify the most commonly encountered "on vehicle" problems that occur in AC.
charging systems.

Proceed now by first reading through the notes beginning on the following page.

Back to Table of Contents 20


PART ONE
OVERVIEW OF THE A.C. CHARGING SYSTEM

The first section of the video (AET-2) covers the parts and functions of a typical A. C.
charging system on a 12 volt supply.

The following notes and diagrams are basically a replica of the video input and are intended
to assist you whilst you are performing any practical work.

THE BASIC CHARGING SYSTEM


The principle component of the system is the "alternator",
which has nowadays largely superseded the old fashioned
"generator". Alternators produce an "alternating current"
which, through a rectifier is converted to a direct current
(D.C.) in order to:
o Maintain an acceptable "stage of charge" within the
automotive battery.
o Balance the varying electrical loads when the vehicle
is operating.

A typical alternator consists of two major components namely:


o A rotor (Fig.2).
o A stator (Fig.3).

Back to Table of Contents 21


A complete alternator is depicted in section view here in Fig.4.

A small (low amperage) current is fed into the rotor coil via "brushes" which bear upon "slip
rings".

Current flowing through the rotor windings induces a


magnetic field into the interlocking segments (Fig.5).

This magnetic field is induced into the "stator windings"


resulting in a current output (see Fig.3) from three
separate leads. Three separate coil "pairs" result in an
overlapping 3 phase output which now must be
converted to D.C.

The devise responsible for converting 3 phase A.C.


current into a single output "D.C." current is known as
the "rectifier" (Fig.6).

Rectification of A.C. current is achieved using


electronic devises called diodes. A diode is basically an
electrical "one way valve" which permits current to
flow through it in only one direction.

Back to Table of Contents 22


The "symbol" for a diode, as seen in electrical circuit
diagrams, is shown in Fig.8.

The diagrammatic circuit for a typical "rectification"


process is shown in Fig.9.

It must be understood that all A. C. systems are


used only on NEGATIVE earth circuits.

If you happen to fit the battery the wrong way


round (i.e. Positive to earth) the rectifier will be
instantly destroyed! (See Fig.10).

In operation the battery requires differing amounts of charge ego after a start the battery
requires a high charge and the output from the alternator needs to be increased.

On a long run, without using lights etc.


the battery will no longer need so much
charge -in this case the alternator must
reduce its charge-rate. The devise used
to take care of this detail is the "voltage
regulator".

The "regulator" effectively "senses"


battery voltage -then electronically
reduces, or increases, the current
flowing into the rotor field. Any

Back to Table of Contents 23


reduction to field current results in a reduction of alternator output. Conversely, an
increased field current results in an increased alternator output.

As a "driver" aid -a dash warning lamp will light up when:

i) The ignition is switched on (engine not


started).

ii) A fault occurs during the running of the


engine.

iii) The warning light or "charge-indicator" is


fed via the ignition circuit. It also receives
a feed from the alternator field (see
diagram in Fig 13).

In simple terms, the voltage flowing to the


warning lamp from the ignition switch ...
becomes matched by the voltage in the
field circuit. At such time the potential
(voltage drop) across the warning lamp
reaches zero and the lamp goes out.

THIS CONCLUDES THE BASIC OVERVIEW.


YOU ARE NOW READY TO VIEW THE VIDEO UP TO REVIEW BREAK NO. 1.

(PLEASE ENSURE THAT YOU ARE IN POSSESSION OF TECH A.V. VIDEO ENTITLED AET-2.)

Back to Table of Contents 24


SELF TEST NO. 1
AET-2: PART ONE

Before you continue to the fault diagnosing sequences, can you answer the following
questions without looking back at your notes?

QUESTIONS YES NO

1. The rotor's functions are to?


ANS:______________________________________________

2. Current is fed into the rotor windings via?


ANS:______________________________________________

3. An alternators output current is created within the?


ANS:______________________________________________

4. What devise is responsible for converting the A.C. into D.C.?


ANS:______________________________________________

5. What are the principle (i.e. main) components in the devise you
answered in question No.4?
ANS:______________________________________________

6. How can you simply describe the component that you answered
in question NO.5?
ANS:______________________________________________

7. Why must you never connect a battery in such a way that is


positive goes to earth?
ANS:______________________________________________

Back to Table of Contents 25


8. What is the primary function of the voltage regulator?
ANS:______________________________________________

9. In effect what does the regulator have to do to achieve your


answer to question NO.8?
ANS:______________________________________________

NOW CHECK YOUR ANSWERS.

Back to Table of Contents 26


PART TWO
FAULT DIAGNOSING

The second part of the video programme deals with testing of the A.C. charging system,
which is simply another way of saying "fault diagnosing".

The procedures that we recommend will fully check out the complete system and you will
no doubt be able to isolate any problem if you stick to the procedure.

PREPARATION
You will require the following tools and / or equipment:
o A voltmeter (scale 0 -40 volts).
o An ammeter (scale 0 -100 amps).
o A hydrometer.

NOTE:
Induction ammeters may not be reliable or accurate
enough for some of the tests.

PROCEDURE
CHECK NO. 1
o Test the battery and ensure that it is at least
70% charged (refer to TECH A.V programmes
L.A.B.).
o Ensure all electrical connections to the battery (insulated line and return line) are
clean and tight.

CHECK NO. 2: DRIVE BELT (FAN BELT)


Ensure that the belt is:
o In good condition.
o Correctly tensioned.

NOTE:
A loose belt will result in decreased alternator output.
An over tightened belt will overload the alternator
bearings.

Back to Table of Contents 27


CHECK NO. 3: ALTERNATOR CONNECTIONS
Ensure that all connections to the alternator are
clean and secure.

NOTE:
Loose or dirty connection will reduce alternator
output.

CHECK NO. 4: CONTINUITY OF WIRING


o Connect your voltmeter to a good earth point on frame or chassis.
o Remove both connections from alternator.
o Switch on ignition.
o Probe each connection with + Vm lead.

Conclusion: A voltage (equivalent to battery voltage) should be found at the


output and indicator (field) leads.

Corrective Action: If no voltage found, then check for open circuits. On the "ind" lead
check that the indicator bulb has not blown.

A simple test to see if the indicator bulb is


functioning -ground the small lead and
observe if lamp comes on when ignition key
is in the "on" position.

CHECK NO. 5: CHECK OUTPUT CURRENT


Connect your ammeter between the alternator
output terminal and the "BAT" terminal on the
starter solenoid / or battery positive.
(Alternatively connect directly between + and
the removed lead "B" in diagram).

If alternator has a multi-plug connector use a


jumper lead to connect IND wire to INO
terminal "C" in diagram.

o Switch on vehicle headlamps for ± 3


minutes to drain surplus off battery.
o Start engine and hold revs around ±
3000 r.p.m. whilst observing the

Back to Table of Contents 28

You might also like