Professional Documents
Culture Documents
T Magazine August 27 2023 F Dnviy
T Magazine August 27 2023 F Dnviy
T Magazine August 27 2023 F Dnviy
COVER STORY
Page 3
Saudis are clear the kingdom is adopting a
10 million ECONOMY
Page 4
FASHION
Page 8
children in Pakistan suffer from Malnutrition fuelled by inflation is like a An entire generation has really skipped out
non-aligned position — Dr Kristian Coates stunted growth slow poison — Dr Kaiser Bengali on the sari — Aiza Hussain
F
or decades, Saudi Arabia has basked in the his perspective on MBS's economic shift. While perts contend that its strategic significance and
glory of an unparalleled oil boom, leverag- The conversion of football clubs acknowledging the intent to move away from oil international influence can endure through skillful
ing a handful of family-owned companies
to amass riches and construct much of the
– Al Ittihad, Al Ahli, Al Hilal, revenues, Professor Swain expresses reservations
regarding the heavy investments in sports and in-
diplomacy, domestic stability, and adept leveraging
of its unique strengths. As the kingdom embarks
nation's current infrastructure. and Al Nassr, where renowned ternational events in Saudi Arabia. He believes that on a path to become a hub for tourism and busi-
However, nearly fifty years after its initial suc-
cess, and following yet another windfall from oil,
Portuguese footballer Cristiano historically, such ventures have benefited individu-
als rather than the nation's image, and questions
ness, the extent to which societal shifts accompany
its economic evolution remains an open question.
Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman (MBS), the Ronaldo plays – into corporate the broader impact of such endeavors. On the personal front, despite facing setbacks,
de facto ruler of the country, is driving an ambi-
tious agenda of economic diversification, aiming
entities represents another According to a report by the Financial Times, the
Saudi government seeks to establish a powerhouse
MBS's resurgence is undeniable. His adept naviga-
tion of global politics, combined with Saudi Ara-
to reduce the nation's dependence on petrodollars. stride by the $600 billion domestic football league by attracting top foot- bia's vast resources and geopolitical influence, has
After consolidating his authority, MBS has firmly
established his economic control and appears to be
sovereign wealth fund toward ballers. The signing of Cristiano Ronaldo by Saudi
Professional League (SPL) club Al Nassr for over $200
reinstated him on the world stage. While chal-
lenges persist, particularly in the aftermath of the
steering the economy away from its longstanding realising a post-oil economy million annually marked a watershed, followed by Khashoggi incident, experts suggest that MBS has
reliance on oil revenues. high-profile signings like Karim Benzema, N’Golo successfully reclaimed his position.
A significant development occurred this June Kanté, Roberto Firmino, and former Aston Villa
when the government in Riyadh, which is domi- sources to a diverse range of events, spanning box- manager Steven Gerrard. Saudi Arabia's investment
nated by members of the Saudi Royal Family, en- ing, tennis, horse racing, and Formula One. Fur- to promote tourism, including a reported $25 mil- The execution of these
trusted the management of four premier domestic
football teams to the Public Investment Fund (PIF),
thermore, Riyadh has made significant investment
in luring top soccer players to join domestic teams
lion for footballer Lionel Messi's social media pro-
motion, underscores the kingdom's determination.
investments has primarily
the kingdom's sovereign wealth fund. Experts who with lucrative contracts. This highlights its ambi- Commenting on MBS's ambitious plan, Profes- flowed through the Public
have observed the crown prince's actions, view this
as part of a series of moves aimed at strengthening
tion to establish a formidable presence in the global
sports arena.
sor Swain highlights the crown prince's astute ac-
knowledgement of the uncertainties surrounding
Investment Fund (PIF), which
the financial foundation behind Saudi Arabia's am- The execution of these investments has primarily Arab oil reserves' stability. “With the global empha- currently ranks as the world's
bitious aspirations to move away from the oil econ-
omy. The conversion of football clubs – Al Ittihad,
flowed through the Public Investment Fund (PIF),
which currently ranks as the world's fifth-largest
sis on renewable energy and climate change mitiga-
tion, Saudi Arabia finds itself compelled to explore
fifth-largest sovereign wealth
Al Ahli, Al Hilal, and Al Nassr, where renowned sovereign wealth fund, as indicated by the Coun- alternative economic avenues, a path that MBS is fund, as indicated by the Council
Portuguese footballer Cristiano Ronaldo plays – into
corporate entities represents another stride by the
cil on Foreign Relations (CFR). The PIF's strategic
acquisitions include prominent soccer team New-
actively pursuing.”
This strategic shift, Professor Swain said, coin-
on Foreign Relations
$600 billion sovereign wealth fund toward realising castle United, a contender in England's premier cides with broader changes in the global power
a post-oil economy, aligning with MBS's vision to professional league, and the transition of former structure. “The kingdom is altering its approach,
diversify the nation's economic landscape. international rival LIV Golf into a collaborative part- becoming more active on the foreign stage by de-es- And as the global landscape continues to evolve,
Recent assessments reveal substantial invest- nership with the US-based PGA Tour. calating tensions with adversaries and embarking Saudi Arabia's ability to successfully navigate these
ments, with some analysts suggesting that Saudi These endeavors by MBS have not gone unnoticed. on extravagant domestic mega-projects.” shifts will ultimately determine its place in the
Arabia has allocated more than $6 billion to sports The crown prince has strategically accelerated the As Saudi Arabia's position on the world stage new order.
deals since early 2021. The kingdom's inaugural implementation of the Vision 2030 plan. Conceived evolves, the kingdom's diplomatic alliances are un-
venture into international sports dates back to 2018 in 2016, this ambitious initiative aims to diversify dergoing a transformation. Historically linked to Oil and influence
when the Saudi sports ministry secured a decade- the Saudi economy beyond oil, encompassing hefty oil, Saudi Arabia's influence is also shifting. MBS Throughout much of the world's recent history, the
long deal to exclusively host World Wrestling En- investments in both the sports and technology sec- also appears to be balancing relations with both Chi- sway of Riyadh’s influence has been unmistakably in-
tertainment (WWE) events, capturing attention tors. However, skeptics argue that the lavish spend- na and the US, leveraging Saudi Arabia's unique geo- tertwined with oil prices and supply dynamics. In 1973,
due to its substantial financial impact – estimated ing on sports serves as a form of "sportswashing," political position to ensure its strategic importance. Saudi Arabia spearheaded an Arab oil embargo against
at a whopping $100 million annually, represent- deflecting criticisms of the Saudi Royal Family's do- As Saudi Arabia embraces this transformative the US and other nations that backed Israel during that
ing around 10 percent of WWE's yearly earnings. mestic and foreign policies. journey, its ability to maneuver a changing global year's Arab-Israeli conflict, contributing to a recession
According to experts, Saudi Arabia’s interest in Dr Ashok Swain, a prominent professor of Peace order remains crucial. While the era of Saudi Ara- in Western economies.
sports is evidenced by its generous allocation of re- and Conflict studies at Uppsala University, offers bia's dominance solely through oil may wane, ex- Continued on page 2
cover story
situation to foreign investment its workforce. With much of the Saudi Arabia finds itself compelled to lieves its strategic importance MBS and the future
levels in these projects falling no-
tably below initial projections,
economic elite emerging from
the oil sector and a significant explore alternative economic avenues, a and international influence can
be upheld through adept politi-
After being ostracised in the after-
math of the killing of Saudi jour-
Ulrichsen said: "Until the projects
and the vision can independently
reliance on foreign labor with-
in the workforce, Saudi Arabia
path that MBS is actively pursuing cal maneuvering, safeguarding
domestic stability, and leverag-
nalist Jamal Khashoggi in 2018,
MBS, the de facto leader of the
generate revenues and become must prioritize cultivating do- ing its unique assets. kingdom, has staged an impressive
self-sustaining, Saudi Arabia is mestic human capital to transi- will remain a partner of the US. tends to withstand external pres- resurgence. Experts point out that
unlikely to meaningfully lessen its tion successfully into a post-oil “Saudi authorities are increasingly sures to choose sides and instead Is tourism an option? Prince Mohammed, aged 37, has de-
dependence on oil." economy.” According to Swain's clear that the kingdom is adopting aims to harmonize its associations According to the Carnegie fied predictions that his leadership
When asked about Saudi Ara- perspective, maintaining the ex- more of a non-aligned position in to optimize benefits for the Saudi Endowment for International Peace, was under peril, skillfully utilizing
bia’s ability to maintain its influ- isting societal structure and eco- international affairs that contrasts national interest," Dr. Ulrichsen Saudi Arabia's strategic "Vision the nation's abundant wealth, its
ence on the world stage once it nomic framework will become a sharply with the role the country elaborated. 2030" involves the implementation influence over global oil markets,
makes its economy less reliant complex endeavor in the absence played during the Cold War when According to Professor Swain, of extensive societal transforma- and its pivotal position in the Arab
on oil production, Dr Ulrichsen, of a resilient oil-based economy. it was firmly a part of the anti- the key lies in MBS's skillful tions to enhance the nation's at- and Islamic realms to elude re-
whose expertise delves into the communist camp,” said the Mid- navigation of relations between tractiveness to tourists and global current attempts to isolate him
evolving roles of Persian Gulf states Global alliances dle East specialist. China and the US while concur- enterprises. In a bid to mirror the internationally.
within the global order, stated: Despite differences on human "In the 2020s, Saudi Arabia un- rently ensuring domestic sta- successes of Dubai and establish During his election campaign,
“This depends on worldwide en- rights and the Arab-Israeli con- der MBS is clearly conveying its bility. “Should this balance be itself as an international epicenter President Biden had pledged to iso-
ergy transitions, and there exists flict, Washington DC and Riyadh unwillingness to align with any achieved, the kingdom can sus- for business and tourism, the king- late Mohammed bin Salman and
a potential scenario wherein Saudi maintain a close alliance that is particular faction in the emerging tain its capacity to exert interna- dom recognized the allure within its punish him for Khashoggi’s kill-
Arabia assumes an even more piv- now in its seventh decade. But this era of intense great power compe- tional influence,” he added. In expansive geography and proximity ing. This was followed by a stern
otal role in the global oil markets.” relationship was always based on tition and strategic rivalry. It in- conclusion, the Sweden-based to the Red Sea. warning from Biden of potential
Oil from Saudi fields, Dr Ul- an exchange: The US gave security Consequently, a substantial sum repercussions for opposing Ameri-
richsen said, has a lower cost of guarantees to Saudi rulers, and they of $810 billion has been earmarked can preferences on oil policy.
production and fewer emissions. promised access to the kingdom’s to foster the growth of the tourism Republican Senator Lindsey Gra-
“This could conceivably be mar- vast oil reserves. sector in the forthcoming years. ham labeled Prince Mohammed
keted as the ‘greenest’ form of oil As per analysts, this arrange- This initiative is anticipated to as a "wrecking ball" unfit to hold a
in the world. Consequently, Saudi ment has survived periodic con- generate a notable three million leadership role on the global stage.
Arabia could potentially position flicts. With Washington DC no jobs, with expatriates projected to Meanwhile, Jay Monahan, the
itself as the most environmentally- longer entirely reliant on the account for two-thirds of these po- head of golf's esteemed PGA Tour,
friendly form of oil within a world kingdom’s oil, of late, the relation- sitions. indicated that players joining a
that will continue to rely on oil for ship’s moorings have weakened. competing Saudi-backed league
the foreseeable future." When asked about Saudi Arabia’s But can the kingdom attract were betraying the victims of the
With all that said, Saudi Ara- diplomatic alliances after its tran- tourism? September 11 terrorist attacks—ac-
bia's robust oil production not only sition, Professor Swain said: “The Baker Institute’s Dr. Ulrichsen tions orchestrated by hijackers,
secures its position among the kingdom's significance on the shared a rather cautious response: most of whom were Saudi citizens.
world's key power players but also global stage, previously tied to its “It remains to be seen whether any Now, their words ring hollow;
furnishes the revenues that have oil wealth, will naturally wane. social and cultural changes will be contrary to what was said about
facilitated opulent domestic devel- MBS is astute enough to compre- limited to the giga-projects them- the crown prince’s fate, he has
opmental policies. hend this reality.” At this point, selves, in which case they may be made a full recovery. “To all intents
the Saudi Crown Prince, Professor containable within a specifically and purposes, the transition to
Post-oil economy challenges Swain said, is less concerned about defined area, or whether they will MBS as de facto leader has already
According to Dr Kristian Coates pleasing the US. “He is adeptly ma- be part of a broader transition that happened and been completed,”
Ulrichsen from Rice University's neuvering geopolitics by engaging covers Saudi society as a whole.” said Dr. Ulrichsen.
Baker Institute, Saudi authorities both China and the US.” “My guess is that the giga-proj- Any lingering repercussions
are currently reliant on oil rev- “This strategic shift involves ects will become enclaves of a sort, faced by the Saudi Crown Prince,
enues to secure the essential fund- playing the "China card" while albeit ones that will be open for in relation to human rights con-
ing required for the monumental maintaining ties with the US and Saudis to participate in,” the Mid- cerns, such as the Jamal Khashog-
giga-projects that serve as the foun- potentially leveraging the strategic dle East expert explained. gi incident and the Yemen con-
dation of Vision 2030. However, this importance of Saudi Arabia, in- To further broaden Saudi Ara- flict, Dr. Ulrichsen explained, have
intricate balance could encounter cluding its religious significance. bia’s transition, the kingdom has substantially diminished. “This
heightened difficulties should other Although Saudi Arabia's influence increased the number of expats transformation notably transpired
nations accelerate their own energy won't replicate its previous oil- who live and work in the Kingdom during 2020-21, and it was particu-
transitions. based prominence, it can still hold from 30 percent to 50 percent. Ac- larly accentuated by the full-scale
Furthermore, Professor Ashok sway through skillful diplomacy cording to the Carnegie Endow- Russian invasion of Ukraine in
Swain of Uppsala University shares and exploiting its unique geopo- ment for International Peace, the 2022. As a result, Mohammed bin
a similar perspective, suggesting litical position,” the Sweden-based government in Riyadh has intro- Salman has resurfaced, reassum-
that Saudi Arabia lacks a substan- academic explained. duced new schemes to allow for- ing a prominent role on the global
tial financial cushion to effectively Dr. Ulrichsen from the Baker eigners permanent residency and stage,” the Middle East scholar
support its diversification endeav- Institute asserts that Saudi Arabia access to economic benefits, such added.
From Quetta’s
heart to every
corner Deprived of a reliable mass transit system for long, locals hail the new eco-
friendly bus service project for Quetta and want it expanded to more areas.
However, private transporters plying dilapidated buses are not too happy
the designated stops and bus routes tion sector for a considerable peri-
od,” says 30-year old Nazeer, who
serving those locations. The provision uses public transport for his daily
commute to work. “I hope that
of water dispensers, trash bins, and as the new bus service expands,
A nation
starves, an
economy
suffers
Story by: Yusra Salim & Nabil Tahir Design by: Mohsin Alam
Numbers (millions) of
children under 5 affected
by wasting, by United
Nations sub-region, 2022
0.2
Central Asia
0.1
Asia
31.6 million
Western Asia
1.0 25.1
Southern Asia
1.1
Eastern Asia
& Caribbean
0.7 million
95% confidence
Stunting Wasting Overweight interval
Percentage of children
under 5 affected by
NI's efforts encompass a range of activities aimed at improving nutri- between inflation and malnutrition. Such a strategy should
tional outcomes. From enhancing vitamin A supplementation for chil- encompass implementing policies that not only regulate food stunting, wasting and
dren under five to promoting zinc supplements and oral rehydration salts prices but also ensure food security for vulnerable populations. 33.0 overweight, global,
en for managing childhood diarrhoea, NI's interventions touch multiple
facets of health. Furthermore, NI extends its reach to remote rural ar-
It should also incorporate targeted social safety nets, subsidies for
essential commodities, support for local food production, promotion of 2000-2022
eas, ensuring that marginalised groups receive improved nutrition and agricultural efficiency, and facilitation of local food systems.
healthcare services. Gambhir highlighted the potential agents of change in this scenario.
s Working in tandem with national and provincial government depart- "The key players who can bring about a transformation by introducing
all ments, NI has been instrumental in fortifying wheat flour to reach mil-
lions of people and improving levels of iron, vitamin B12, and folic acid
fortified flour or other nutritional items to the public include the tradi-
tional bureaucratic establishment, the association of flour mills, and
among children and women. the media," he said. He fexplained that this requires a substantial scale
One noteworthy accomplishment is NI's involvement in the Sindh of advocacy. The involvement of organisations like the Asian Bank and
22.3
Food Fortification Act 2021. This groundbreaking legislation makes Sindh USAID could swiftly propel implementation. However, these approaches
the first province in Pakistan to enact a law focused on food fortification. often remain unheard and overlooked in favour of established ideologies
NI played a significant role in the drafting of this bill, showcasing its dedi- and research. Gambhir emphasised, "Creating awareness, advocating for
cation to addressing malnutrition at a policy level. change, and educating the masses are pivotal to fostering improved con-
Between 2016 and 2020, NI concentrated on building technical and hu- sumption patterns."
man resource capacity, collaborating with government departments, In the journey towards a healthier and more prosperous future for Paki-
and strengthening industry associations. This holistic approach not only stan, addressing the interconnected challenges of malnutrition and in-
enhances knowledge but also fosters sustainable change. flation requires a multi-faceted approach. It's essential to recognise that
8.7
In Pakistan, where malnutrition remains a persistent challenge, NI's the battle against malnutrition isn't just a health concern; it is a fight for 6.8
efforts stand as a testament to the power of collective action. By working economic growth, human potential, and the well-being of generations
hand in hand with governments, communities, and industry stakehold- to come.
ers, NI seeks to contribute to a healthier, more nourished future for all, Policy-makers, organisations, and individuals must join hands to ad-
embodying the spirit of collaboration and impact-driven change. vocate for better nutrition, affordability, and accessibility. By fortifying 5.3 5.6
food as well as societal awareness and education, Pakistan can break free
Need of the hour from the shackles of malnutrition. This journey is undoubtedly a chal-
The need of the hour is a strategic approach that encompasses both im- lenging one, but with concerted efforts and collective determination, the
mediate relief and sustainable solutions to effectively address the nexus future holds the promise of a healthier and more nourished Pakistan.
2.9 13.7
0.7 0.1 33.0 35.5 36.2 38.0 37.8 37.0
Africa Latin Oceania Global
America
and
up Joint Malnutrition Estimates, 2023 edition Caribbean
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yards
of style
Move over Alya Bhatt! Our very own Aiza
Hussain has revived and reinvented the
sari trend with modern, affordable, and
sustainable pieces for everyday wear
By Rizwana Naqvi her family but she says, “It is my different communities belong-
personal passion.” ing to all religions like Parsis.
As far as I can remember, my mother “The sari doesn’t care for our Sari is also often passed on as
always wore a sari, whether she was origin or our colour; it is us who heirloom from one generation to
at home doing household chores or have assigned these labels to the another.
going out no matter what the oc- sari that exist around it today,” “I believe that it depends on
casion was. First in the morning, she says. “I have come across how things are portrayed,” says
even before preparing breakfast, she women who worry about their Hussain. A concept doesn’t come
would change from her night dress body type, colour, marital sta- out of thin air, it’s bred over time,
into a sari. tus, and so many things when we are socialised into believing
Those were the times when sari it comes to donning this dress. I certain traditions and values at-
was the preferred dress for most am trying to normalise this dress tached to a dress form. I am a big
married women, and girls too again and break all stereotypes proponent of how things are engi-
would often wear it, especially for around it, using regional ethnic neered over time.
functions, etc. prints, and trying to do that at a The Saari Girl is not just dedi-
I am told that in the pre-Parti- cost that a lot of people can bear. cated to promoting affordable
tion India, sari was mostly worn It is not supposed to cost you an saris, but also battling notions ed in society.” the whole process that we work brands are marketing saris now,
by Hindu women and Muslim arm and a leg. We should own about the sari. “In the twenty- on.” which is evident from campaigns
women usually wore gharara or proudly.” first century, it is time that we Fabrics and styles Hand block-printed Ajrak sari by premiere fashion clothing
chooridar pyjama, while Sikh The idea behind The Saari Girl is show more progressive thinking Talking about the fabrics and styles that is made on pure cotton is brands. Three or four years ago
women wore shalwar kameez. to make sari more accessible and and break past attaching religion that are more popular Hussain says, gaining popularity. “I think it is none of these brands was mar-
But gradually the distinction dis- affordable for the masses in Paki- to a dress,” advocates Hussain. “Banarsi and silk are the main fab- because of the history attached keting the sari. She recalled that
appeared and women began to stan and generally to Pakistanis Discussing how sari has been rics that we work with.” They have to the organic, vegetable dye while at a shopping mall recent-
wear whatever they wanted, irre- or the desi diaspora abroad. “I politicised in the past few de- all types of saris ― Indian banarsi, process that is completely hand- ly, she noticed one mannequin at
spective of religion. Sari and shal- want to trace the cultural dynam- cades, such as during Gen Zia’s Pakistani banarsi, cotton silk, pure made. There is zero machinery premiere clothes outlet wearing
war pushed the gharara aside to ics around this particular dress Islamisation drive which has had cotton, lawn, organza saris, tissue involved ― from blocks to dry- a sari. “The fact that it is being
an extent that it seemed to have form and then to contribute to- its impact on women’s dressing, saris, sequence net saris. “Ajrak sari ing to washing and final touch mass produced by bigger brands
been reserved for the elderly or for wards ‘The Saari Girl,’ Hussain especially the sari, Hussain says, is very popular and I feel proud that up, everything is done by hands. shows that people are wearing
occasions like weddings, when adds. “When you think of the national we are promoting Sindhi artisans’ These are ancient techniques that sari more regularly.”
even young ones would be dressed dress you think of the shalwar work through those,” says Hussain. that are followed for sari making. As a measure to revive the sari,
in a gharara and look like dolls. Each sari takes about two weeks “We have done campaigns that
However, with the passage of to make, so a lot of hard work are very socially inclusive; for ex-
time, somehow in Pakistan, the goes into this. Yet we try to price ample, campaigns that were ac-
sight of sari-clad women began them at reasonable rates; starting tively targeted towards minorities
to diminish, or in other words the from 5,000 onwards and goes up in Pakistan, such as campaigns
sari fell out of favour. While in to Rs7,000 -8,000.” on Diwali and Karwa Chauth.”
the 70s women used to wear sari Another popular variety is the One can say that revival of the
even in informal settings and in silk saris which come in a variety of sari is happening as more and
day to day life, and one could even colours such as peacock green, ma- more people are wearing saris for
see sari-clad women walk on the roon, plum and royal teal shades Eids, for birthdays, etc. “There’s
streets and even at the work place, are really popular these days. a movement that is in place, but,
but now fewer women wear it. According to Hussain, ‘The given the decades of pluralism
Aiza Hussain, CEO of The Saari Saari Girl’ is the country’s largest against the sari that we have to
Girl, seems to have taken upon e-commerce platform for saris. “I fight, it will take time. It is some-
herself to bring back sari in style. was the first one to pioneer this thing that we are actively work-
She refutes the thought that it be- movement, and pioneer the idea ing on and there is still a long way
longs to some particular commu- of an online sari store. Before this to go,” says Hussain.
nity, pointing out that the history no online sari store has emerged Being dedicated to social respon-
of sari in the subcontinent goes as from Pakistan.” Hussain was just sibility, Aiza feels that in a coun-
far back as the Indus Valley Ci- 23 when she established ‘The Saa- try where majority of the popula-
vilisation. She mentions the sari ri Girl’ and a year later established tion lives below the poverty line it
draped figurines of the Indus Val- the website. Now at just 26, she is important to keep giving back
ley, which shows the historical leads an all women team, all of to society in whatever way possi-
value of this dress. Why it fell out of style kameez; when you think of ap- “These hand block printed saris are whom are younger than her and ble, monetarily or through more
“The sari has been here for cen- When we talk about sari falling propriate clothing for women you very close to my heart. The hand- mostly students. “It’s like a girl exclusive campaigns. “For this,
turies and is common to many out of style, usually Gen Zia and go back to shalwar kameez, the loom traditional khaddi banarsi is power sort of initiative, where I we have done campaigns where
communities,” Hussain says. his Islamisation drive is blamed for headscarf and abaya and all.” again very traditional and involves am trying to empower women we donate a percentage of 5-15
“But while growing up I did not this. It is true that “during Gen Zia’s She recalls Iqbal Bano’s per- a lot of hard work and is also one of by making them believe in them- percent towards flood relief. I do-
see the sari to be as popular as I era sari was not encouraged in a lot formance at the Alhamra in my favourites. Apart from these we selves, to feel more confident nated 50 percent of proceeds for a
was told during my research; not of places,” says Hussain. “In fact, in 1986, when she sang Faiz ‘Hum have lace chiffon, georgette, chunri about themselves as well as en- couple of months, and in August
at least in the circles and spheres most places it was frowned upon. dekhein ge’, wearing a black sari. saris too.” trusting them with responsibili- last year I donated 100 percent of
that I come across. My mother This was not exactly an active at- [Faiz had been banned by Zia be- Hussain and her team encour- ties, taking their creative input, my proceeds,” says Hussain.
has never worn a sari, though tack but definitely a way to discour- cause of his close association with age all kinds of drapes, from the working together on ideas in a To bring back the sari, just in-
both my grandmothers loved age sari, while shalwar kameez was Bhutto, but Iqbal Bano continued standard and most popular drape holistic, teamwork kind of envi- troducing new styles and mass
wearing sari. I feel that an entire encouraged as the proper national to sing his poems as an act of defi- that goes on the left shoulder, to ronment. It’s a women-led and marketing is not enough. As Aiza
generation has really skipped out dress. Though, in later years, sari ance and resistance.] And because Gujarati drape where the pallu women-run enterprise.” says with so many women suffer-
on sari and that somehow propels did redeem in some places like in the she was wearing a sari which was comes in front, to the Marathi ing from colourism, from body
me towards this dress.” military uniform and among medi- also considered improper and drape where the sari is draped Revival image, etc. we have to be more
Hussain, a socio cultural an- cal professionals.” not deemed something that can separately on the two legs in a As far as popularising the sari is con- mindful of that and should have
thropologist by training, received Another factor is that because be worn by the masses, the sari particular style. Customers are cerned, Hussain believes that there more inclusive campaigns. And
her education from LUMS and sari is more popular in India it is came to be labelled as revolution- assisted about how they should has been a change. “I think it is a this, she says, is her mission.
University of Chicago where she often considered a Hindu dress. ary and rebellious. wear a sari, how they should journey where we have definitely
was a Fulbright scholar. She is Hussain calls this notion a false- “I am particularly striving feel confident about themselves, made a monumental impact. I can Rizwana Naqvi is a freelance journalist
also a researcher and enjoys food, hood, saying “it is not correct at against established norms,” she what sort of look they need and say this because since we started off and tweets @naqviriz; she can be reached
travel, and saris. Seeing her pas- all.” Sari is worn in other coun- says. I am not trying to introduce what will complement them, many brands have picked up.” at naqvi2012rizwana@hotmail.co.uk
sion, one would have thought tries also such as Bangladesh; something new, but only revive what they have in mind for them- She says this can be measured All facts and information are the sole
that she perhaps inherited it from also in Pakistan, it is worn by something that has always exist- selves, explains Hussain. “So it’s by the fact that many popular responsibility of the author