MRS SANTA CLAUS BBT008

A Crochet Pattern by Sue Pendleton

Bluebeary Treasures by Sue Pendleton (830) 896-9616

www.bluebearytreasures.com bluebearymailbox@aol.com
 2

ABBREVIATIONS

beg – begin/beginning inc – increase

bet -- between lp(s) – loops
BL – back loop mm – millimeter(s)
ch – chain stitch pl – place
ch- – refers to a ch space previously prev – previous
made: e.g., ch-1 space rem – remaining
ch-sp – refers to chain or space rnd(s) – round(s)
cm – centimeter(s) RS – right side
cont -- continue sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr) sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches sk – skip
together (decrease) Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Dec – decreases(s) Sp(s) – space(s)
ea – each St – stitch
FL – front loop(s) tog -- together
FO – fasten off WS -- wrong side
hdc – half double crochet Yd(s) – yard(s)
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches YO – yarn over
together Yoh – yarn over hook

THREAD SUBSTITUTION

Two strands of punch thread held together is approximately equivalent to size 10 crochet
thread, or size 5 perle cotton. One strand of punch thread is approximately equivalent to
size 30 crochet cotton, or size 12 perle cotton. Be aware that cotton thread will not brush
up to be "furry" as will acrylic or wool threads.

THREAD COMPARISON

Check for Comparison to Perle Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use around a
ruler, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps that fit
inside ¼ inch (.6 cm) is the equivalent size to perle cotton. For instance, if your
thread wraps around 12 times, then it is equivalent to size 12 perle cotton.

Check for Comparison to Crochet Cotton: Wrap the thread you want to use
around a ruler, with each thread wrap touching the last wrap. The number of wraps
that fit inside ½ inch (1.3 cm) is the equivalent size to crochet cotton. For instance, if
your thread wraps around 30 times, then it is equivalent to size 30 crochet cotton.

2
 3

MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES: (See list of internet supply sources at end of

pattern.)
Mrs. Santa is approximately 6.5 inches tall.
• Punch thread: 2 spools of each color: Flesh, red, white, green, black, brown
• Size 6 (1.8mm) crochet hook
• Two ½" disks (1.3cm)
• One ¾" (1.9cm) cotter pin
• Pliers for turning cotter pin
• Hemostat, tweezers, or other stuffing tool of choice
• Mohair finger brush or stiff toothbrush for brushing up "fur"
• 3mm eyes, black
• Stuffing
• Needles: 5-inch (13cm) doll needle, tapestry needle, beading needle, milliners needle
(these are suggestions; use the needles that work best for you.)
• Upholstery or other strong thread for jointing
• Two 8-inch (20 cm) pieces ¼-inch wide (6mm) white ribbon (apron ties)
• Two 5-inch (12.5cm) pieces of ¼-inch wide (6mm) white ribbon (straps)
• Five 2mm pearl beads (optional)
• Two red ribbon roses (optional)
• Watercolor pencil (such as Prisma) or makeup blush, pink or rose
• Very fine point (.25mm) marker (such as Pigma Micron), brown
• Fray Stop (optional)

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
Gage: Gage is not important as long as the same size thread and hook are used for all the
pattern pieces. However, since tension can vary in different circumstances, it is
suggested that when making two pieces that must be the same, such as arms and legs, that
you complete both in one sitting. The same weight yarn and hook size should be used for
all pieces unless otherwise indicated.

Important Note on Stuffing: The way that you stuff your bear can greatly affect the
quality of the finished product, especially if you are thread-jointing. You'll be
amazed at the quantity of stuffing that each piece requires. The bear should be
stuffed firmly so that it won't lose its shape, but not so firmly that the stitches are
pulled apart to the extent that the stuffing shows through in a distracting manner.

Weaving/hiding loose thread ends: When making the bear, you can hide the loose
ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the needle
through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), and then pull the thread taut, and
clip close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it's best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can't hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always

3
4

leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave. To weave: Thread the
tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the piece and beginning directly beneath the
place where you fastened off, insert the needle underneath and through the upper loops of
fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same
stitches in the opposite direction.

IMPORTANT NOTE: YOU WILL WORK WITH 2 STRANDS OF A COLOR

HELD TOGETHER THROUGHOUT UNLESS OTHERWISE INSTRUCTED.
(THIS ONLY APPLIES IF YOU'RE USING PUNCH THREAD.)

HEAD:
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join. Use a piece of contrasting thread as a rnd
marker.
2. 2 sc in ea of next 6 c. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 9 times. (27 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around. (27 sc)
7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in ea of next 2 sc) 9 times. (36 sc)
8 – 10. Sc in ea sc around. (36 sc)
11 - 12. Sc in next 15 sc, sl st in next 2 st, sc in next 2 sc, sl st in next 2 st, sc in next 15
sc. (32 sc, 4 sl st)
13. Sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 5 st, sc in next 2 sc, 2
sc in ea of next 5 sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc. (42 sc)
14. Sc in ea st around. (42 sc)
15. (Sc2tog, sc in next 18 sc) twice, sc2tog. (39 sc)
16. Sc in next 8 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 5 times, sc2tog, sc in next 9 sc. (33 sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times.
(24 sc)
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 3 times,
sc2tog. (16 sc)
• Begin stuffing head.
20. Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog 5 times, sc in next 3 sc; FO. (11 sc)
• Finish stuffing head. Make sure cheeks are filled out. Add small pieces of stuffing to
define the chin area. Place the cotter pin onto one of the disks, and insert the disk inside
the bottom head opening, with the pin's legs protruding downward. Using upholstery or
other strong thread, sew a row of gathering stitches, going in and out of the outer lps
around rnd 20, and then pull carefully to tighten around the cotter pin. Fasten off
securely, and pull the thread inside the head to hide the end. You may alternatively sew
the head to the body, or make a thread joint, in which case you will omit the cotter pin
step.
FACIAL FEATURES
NOSE:
1. With same thread as head ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch; turn. (3 sc)
2. Sk 1st sc, sc in next sc, sl st in next sc; FO, leaving long end.

4
 5

• Row 2 is the top of the nose. Using the long end, sew the nose to the center of the face,
placing the top of the nose on rnd 11 between the two sets of 2 sl st.
ATTACH EYES: Use pins (the kind with round glass heads are good for this) to locate
the eye positions. Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong thread: Begin by
threading a sturdy needle, such as a milliner's needle, with nylon or other strong thread.
If using wire-looped eyes, crimp the wire loop with pliers, if it's not pre-crimped, until
you can just get your needle through the loop; insert the needle through the loop (or
bead), and then remove the thread from the needle. If you can't get your needle through
the wire or bead, insert the thread through first, then thread the needle. Thread both ends
back onto the needle, and then insert the needle into the first eye location. *Bring the
needle out the back or bottom of the head (depending on the angle you want), pulling the
thread until the wire loop touches the face. Insert the crimped loop into the same place
where the needle went in (use a larger needle to make a tunnel for the loop if necessary),
pushing it flush against the face. Pull gently but firmly on the thread to slightly imbed
the eye into the face. Keeping the thread taut so as not to allow the eye to loosen, insert
the needle back into the exact place,** then push through the head and out at the second
eye location. Insert the threaded needle through the eye wire or bead (once again, if your
needle won't go through the opening, remove the thread from the needle,
insert it through the eye wire or bead, then rethread the needle). Insert the
needle into the 2nd eye location, then repeat * to ** to attach the 2nd eye,
bringing the needle out finally at the bottom of the head. Tie off the ends
with a surgeon's knot (see illustration at right), then thread the ends onto
the needle and insert back into the head in the same place where the knot
is; pull though the head. Clip ends close to the surface so that they
disappear inside the head.
EYEBROWS:
Using white punch thread or perle cotton, embroider a straight stitch above each eye for
eyebrows.
MOUTH:
Using dark red punch thread or perle cotton, you will embroider a horizontal straight
stitch 1 sc beneath the nose. The stitch should be about 6 sc wide, and should fit in the
groove between rounds. Make another stitch in the same place, on top of the first,
bringing the needle out of the same place where the edge of the lip is (this is the upper
lip). Insert the needle back into the face on the edge of the upper lip and out the opposite
edge, holding the thread against the face, but let it arc downward so that the bottom lip
will be in the shape of a smile. Make another bottom lip stitch over the first one. This
time when you insert the needle back into the edge of the mouth, bring it out one sc
below the upper lip, in the center of the lip, and catch the lower lip stitches underneath
the needle as it comes out. As you pull the needle out, the thread will be above the lower
lip. Insert the needle back into the same place that it came out, taking the yarn around
and under the bottom lip threads, then bringing it back out at the left corner of the mouth.
*Catching a tiny bit of fabric, insert the needle back into the face, and bring it out the
bottom of the head; pull to indent the corner of the mouth slightly. Insert the needle back
into the head in the same place,* and bring it out at the opposite corner of the mouth.
Repeat * to *, this time coming back out in the same place as the center stitch that secures
the bottom lip. (Optional Step:) Insert the needle under the thread of the bottom lip, and

5
6

use it to wrap the thread around the lower lip 3 – 5 times. Insert the needle into the
corner of the mouth, and bring it out once again at the bottom center of the lower lip, then
repeat the wrapping process for the other side of the lower lip. This will give the
appearance of a thicker lower lip. Optional: Embroider 2 straight white lines inside the
lips, one just under the upper lip, and one just above the lower lip, for teeth.
EARS:
LEFT EAR:
1. With 2 strands of skin color held together, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; ch 1, turn.
(8 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sl st in last sc; FO, leaving long
end for sewing. (10 sc, sl st)
RIGHT EAR:
1. With 2 strands of skin color held together, ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook; turn piece
right to left. (8 sc)
2. Sl st in 1st sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc; FO, leaving long
end for sewing. (10 sc, sl st)
• Sew ears to sides of head, with inside center of ears at about the level of the eyes.
HAIR: The hair will be added later. You can do it now if you wish, but it gets in the
way a bit while you're making the body and skirt, and you don't want to take a chance on
ruining it.
BODY:
1. Ch 2 with red, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join, place rnd marker. (6 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (24 sc)
5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)
6. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in
next 7 sc. (34 sc)
7 - 8. Sc in ea sc around. (34 sc)
9. Sc in next 11 sc, (2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next sc) 6 times, 2 hdc in next sc, sc in next
10 sc. (21 sc, 20 hdc)
10. Sc in next 9 sc, hdc in next 24 st, sc in next 8 sc. (17 sc, 24 hdc)
11. Sc in next 9 st, hdc in next 10 st, sc in next st, sl st next 2 tog (*insert hook into next
st, yo and pull up a lp**; repeat * to ** once more, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook),
sc in next sc, hdc in next 10 st, sc in next 8 st. (19 sc, 20 hdc, sl st)
12. Sc in next 8 st, (sc2tog, sc in next st) 4 times, sl st in next st, (sc in next st, sc2tog) 4
times, sc in next 7 st. (31 sc, sl st)
13 - 14. Sc in ea st around. (32 sc)
15. Working in BL, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 8 times. (40 sc)
At this point push the cotter pin protruding from the bottom of the head into the
center of round 1 of the body. Place a disk onto the cotter pin and push flush
toward head; then, reaching inside body with small pliers, curl each side of
cotter pin toward disk.
16 - 17. Sc in ea sc around. (40 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc) 4 times. (36 sc)
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 6 times. (30 sc)

6
 7

20. (Sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog) 6 times. (24 sc)

21. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
22. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 6 times. (18 sc) Stuff body firmly.
23. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 6 times. (12 sc) Add more stuffing if needed.
24. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving a long end. (8 sc)
• Thread end on needle, then sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of the front lps of
rnd 24; pull gently but firmly to gather and close (punch thread breaks easily). Insert the
needle into the body through bottom opening and out elsewhere on body. Insert needle
into exact spot where you just brought it out, and then bring needle out again at a
different place on back of body. This will secure the thread. Pull thread taut and clip
close to body. If done correctly, end of thread should disappear into body.
LEGS: (Make 2)
nd
1. Ch 7 with black, 2 sc in 2 ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch, moving
around to work on opposite side of ch, 2 sc in 1st ch, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch; do not
join, place rnd marker. (16 sc)
2. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(24 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 7 sc, sc in next 8 sc; sl st in BL of
next sc. (32 sc)
4. Sc in BL of next 31 sc, sc in BL of next sl st. (32 sc)
5. Sc in both lps of ea sc around. (32 sc)
6. Sc, move rnd marker to begin next rnd here (this is to get back to center to begin the
rnd, and does not change the stitch count at all), sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog 8 times, sc in next
8 sc. (24 sc)
7. Sc in next 5 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (19 sc)
8. Sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc. (17 sc)
• Stuff foot.
9 - 13. Sc in ea sc around; FO at end of rnd 13 with sl st in next sc. (17 sc)
14. Join red with sc in st at ctr back of heel, sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch
1, do not turn. (17)
15. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn.
(17 sc)
TO CHANGE COLORS: At end of round insert hook into 1st sc as if to join with sl
st; instead of bringing through a loop of original color, bring through a loop of the
new color.
16. 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 16 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, changing to white (see
instructions above); do not FO red, ch 1, do not turn. (18 sc)
17 – 18. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around with white; join with sl st in 1st sc,
ch 1, do not turn. (18 sc)
19. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; join with sl st in BL of 1st sc, changing
back to red, ch 1, do not turn, FO white. (18 sc)
20. Working in BL with red, sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; do not join. (17
sc)
• You will now resume working in rounds.
21. Sc2tog, sc in next 16 sc. (17 sc)

7
8

• Continue stuffing. The limbs should be stuffed firmly and evenly. If they are under-
stuffed, you will not be able to make a strong and lasting thread joint.
22. Working in BL, 2 sc In next sc, sc in next 16 sc. (18 sc)
23 – 26. Sc in ea sc around. (18 sc)
27. (Sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc) twice. (16 sc)
28. (Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc) twice. (14 sc)
29. (Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc) twice; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for sewing.
(12 sc)
• Add stuffing to top of leg if necessary. Thread end on needle, then close the opening
with a ladder stitch or an oversew stitch, with the seam running front-to-back (the leg is
wider front-to-back than it is side-to-side). Insert the needle into the top of leg and bring
out elsewhere on leg. Pull thread taut and clip close to leg so that the end disappears
inside.
UNDERWEAR LEG TRIM (OPTIONAL):
Bottom Ruffle:
1. Using one strand of white and with top of leg toward you, join with sc in free lp at
center back of row 19, sc in same pl again, (sc in next 5 free lps, 2 sc in next free lp)
twice, sc in next 5 free lps; join with sl st in BL of 1st sc; ch 3, do not turn. (21 sc)
2. Dc in same pl as joining, 2 dc in ea sc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3; ch 1,
do not turn. (42 dc)
3. Sc in same pl as joining, (ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc) around, ending with ch 2, join
with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (21 ch-2 lps)
Top Ruffle:
1. Using one strand of white and with top of leg toward you, join with sc in free lp at
center back of row 21, sc in same pl again, (sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 5 times, sc in
next sc; join with sl st in BL of 1st sc; ch 3, do not turn. (23 sc)
2. Dc in same sc as joining, 2 dc in ea sc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 1,
do not turn. (46 dc)
3. Sc in same pl as joining, (ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc) across to last dc; end with ch
2, sl st in 1st sc. (23 ch-2 sp)
FUR BOOT CUFF:
1. With 2 strands of white held together, ch 24 (or to fit loosely around the leg at the top
of the boot), join with sl st to form a ring, ch 1, sc in same ch as joining, and in ea ch
around; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1, do not turn. (24 sc)
2. Sc in same pl as joining, and in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO, leaving long
end for sewing to boot top. (24 sc)
• WS will be facing out. Brush the piece until it appears "furry." Slide the cuff onto the
foot, WS out, and up to the edge of the boot top. Easing in any extra fullness, sew the cuff
to the leg, slightly above the top edge of the boot.
ATTACH LEGS:
First used long pins inserted through the tops of the legs to help you locate the desired
position. Thread doll needle with a 30-inch (76cm) length of upholstery or other strong
thread, doubled but not knotted. Insert needle into the 1st hip and push through to
opposite side, leaving a 3-inch (8 cm) tail protruding from body. Insert needle back into
body one row down, push back through body, and bring out on opposite side of body one

8
 9

rnd below beginning tail. Insert needle back into body in same place as tail, and bring out
on opposite side at the upper point of the joint. Pull thread to indent socket on each side.
*Insert needle into inner side of leg and through to outer side, and then turn and insert the
needle back into the leg in the same place where it came out, push it back through the leg,
dipping down inside the leg to grab some stuffing, and bring it out the same place on the
inside of the leg. Insert the needle back into the body in the top of the joint stitch,
through the body, and out the opposite side in the same place on the top of the joint
stitch.** Repeat * to ** for 2nd leg. If one of the legs feels loose, you can repeat the
process * to *8 for one or both legs, ending with needle coming out of body just behind
or in front of the top of the leg. Cut thread, leaving a 3-inch (8 cm) tail. Tie off the
beginning and ending tails with a surgeon's knot, then thread the ends on a needle and run
through the body to hide the ends.
SKIRT:
1. You'll work this rnd in the free lps on rnd 14 of body. Using red, with the doll's head
toward you, join with sc at the center back of the doll, sc in same pl, sc in next 3 sc, (2 sc
in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 7 times; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 3, do not turn. (40 sc)
2. Dc in same pl as joining, (3 dc in next sc, 2 dc in next sc) 20 times; join with sl st in
top of beg ch-3, ch 3, do not turn. (102 dc)
3. Working in BL, dc in ea dc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, do not turn.
(102 dc)
4 - 11. Dc in BL of ea dc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch-3, ch 3, do not turn. At
end of row 11 do not ch 3, FO. (102 dc)
12. Trim: With WS facing, and bottom of skirt up, join white with sc at center back of
skirt, sc in ea dc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (102 sc)
13 - 15. Sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. FO after row 15.
(102 sc)
• Brush up the white trim for a furry appearance, being careful not to brush the red.
Trim any unruly ends.
HAIR:
You will need about 150 strands of white punch thread, each about 6 inches (15cm) long,
depending on how much hair you want to put on the head. Cut 20 or 30 at a time, so it
won't be so monotonous, if you like. You will use these to make a fringe around the head
as follows: Hold two of the strands together and fold them in half. Beginning just in
front of the top edge of the right ear, insert the hook into, under, and out behind the 1st sc;
grab the center of the folded thread with the hook, and pull the loop back through, YO
and pull all strands through the loop on the hook. Pull on the strands to tighten the knot
against the head. Continue the process up and around the front hairline to just in front of
the top edge of the left ear. (See photo) Next make another row of fringe around the
back hairline, beginning behind the left ear and finishing behind the right ear. Make 2
rows of fringe if you want extra coverage.
• Thread a needle with white punch thread; double but do not knot the ends. Smooth the
hair (use a soft toothbrush or other tool if you need to) toward the top of the head and
gather the hair into a high pony tail. Grasping the pony tail together with the left hand,
insert the threaded needle into the head at the back hairline, through the head, and out at
the base of the pony tail, leaving a 3-inch (7.5cm) tail protruding from the entry point.
Wrap the thread around the pony tail 3 times, pulling to tighten it around the ponytail,

9
10

then push the needle through the base of the pony tail and out the other side 3 times.
Push the needle back into the head at the base of the pony tail, down through the head,
and out at the back hairline. Clip the thread, leaving a 3-inch (8cm) tail. Tie off both
tails, then hide the ends inside the head. Trim the pony tail to about 3/8-inch (1cm) above
the base. Don’t trim so much off that the hair comes out of it's "band."
BUN:
Cut 9 18-inch (46cm)strands of white punch thread. Holding the 9 strands together, knot
one end. Now separate the strands into 3 groups of 3 strands each and braid the 3 groups
all the way to the other end. Knot close to the end. Trim both ends close to the knots.
Carefully brush white glue over the ponytail stub, and around the base of the ponytail.
Beginning at the back, wrap the braid around the base of the pony tail, and then wrap it
around the ponytail stub to cover the clipped ends, ending in the center. Set the head
aside to let the glue dry.
ARMS
Left Arm:
1. Ch 5 with green, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, moving to opposite side of
chain, sc in next 4 free lps; do not join, place marker. (8 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (8 sc) You may need to turn the piece right side out.
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times. (12 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
5. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc)
twice. (14 sc)
6. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
7. Sc in next 3 sc, move rnd marker here to begin new rnd (does not change stitch count),
ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog. (11 sc, 2 ch)
8. Sc in BL of next 2 ch, sc in next 11 sc. (13 sc)
9. Sc in ea sc around; FO with sl st in next sc. (13 sc)
Thumb:
1. With wrist opening toward you, join green with sc in 1st free lp of thumb opening, sc
in next free lp, sc in row end bet top and bottom of thumb opening, sc in next 2 sc, sc in
row end bet top and bottom of thumb opening, do not join. (6 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (6 sc)
3. Sc in next 3 sc; FO with sl st in next sc, leaving long end for closing end of thumb. (6
sc)
• Sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of the outer lps at end of thumb, pull gently
to close the thumb opening; FO, hide end by inserting needle into center top and pulling
thread inside of thumb. Stuff hand.
10. Resume arm: join red with sc in next sc on hand, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5
sc. (12 sc)
11 - 14. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
15. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc. (13 sc)
16. Sc in next around. (13 sc)
17. Sc in next 11 sc, sl st loosely in next 2 sc. (11 sc, 2 sl st)
18. Sl st loosely in next 2 sc, sc in next 11 st. (2 sl st, 11 sc)
• Begin stuffing arm.
19 - 20. Sc in ea st around. (13 sc)

10
 11

Note: if you do not wish to add the full sleeve cap to the top of the arm, then work rnd 21
in BOTH lps.
21. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (13 sc)
• Continue stuffing.
22 - 25. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
26. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; FO, leaving
long end. (9 sc )
• Finish stuffing and firm up top of arm.
• Thread end on needle, then close the opening with a ladder stitch or an oversew stitch.
Insert the needle into the top of arm out elsewhere on arm, pulling thread taut. Pull on
thread firmly and clip close to arm so that thread disappears inside.
SLEEVE CAP (OPTIONAL):
Dc2tog: (YOH and insert hook into next stitch, YO and pull up a loop), repeat
within ( ) once more, (YO and pull through 3 loops on hook) twice.
1. Turning ch-3 counts as 1st dc unless otherwise indicated. With the hand toward you,
find the free lps made from working rnd 21 in BL. Beginning with the free lp at center of
inner arm, join red with sc in next free lp, sc in same pl, 2 sc in ea of next 9 free lps; ch 3,
turn. (20 sc)
2. Dc in same pl as turning, 2 dc in ea of next 19 sc across; ch 3, turn. (40 dc)
3 – 4. Dc in next dc and in ea dc around; ch 3, turn. (40 sc)
5. Dc2tog 18 times, dc in last dc; ch 1, turn. (20 dc)
6. Sc2tog 10 times around; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO, leaving a long end. (10 sc)
• Thread the long end onto a needle, and sew a row of gathering stitches in and out of the
outer lps of row 6. Pull firmly but gently to gather and close the top of the sleeve cap.
Push the center top of the sleeve cap down against the center of the top of the arm, and
sew in place with a couple of stitches, then insert the needle down through the center of
the cap, then into the top of the arm, bringing it out of the arm below the cap. Insert the
needle back into the same place, through the arm, and out on the opposite side. Repeat
once more to anchor and secure the thread. Pull the thread taut and trim close to arm so
that it disappears inside.
FUR CUFF:
1. Ch 17 (or number required to fit loosely around wrist), join with sl st in 1st ch to form
a ring; ch 1, sc in ea ch around; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1, do not turn. (17 sc)
2. Sc in next 17 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO, leaving long end.
• The WS of the crochet will be facing out; brush up the WS of the cuff till fuzzy. Slip the
cuff onto the doll's wrist, and sew in place, easing in any excess fullness.
RIGHT ARM:
1 – 6. Repeat 1 – 6 of left arm.
7. Sc in next 2 sc, move rnd marker here to begin new rnd, sc in next 4 sc, ch 2, sk next 2
sc, sc in next 8 sc. (12 sc, 2 ch)
8. Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in BL of next 2 ch, sc in next 8 sc. (13 sc)
9. Sc in ea sc around; FO with sl st in next sc. (13 sc)
THUMB: Work same as for left arm.
10. Resume arm; join red with sc in next sc on hand, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8
sc. (12 sc)
11 - 14. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)

11
12

15. Sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (13 sc)

16. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
17. Sc in next 4 sc, sl st loosely in next 4 sc, sc in next 5 sc. (9 sc, 4 sl st)
• Begin stuffing arm.
18 - 20. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
Note: if you do not wish to add the full sleeve cap to the top of the arm, then work rnd 21
in BOTH lps.
21. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (13 sc) Continue stuffing.
22 - 25. Sc in ea sc around. (13 sc)
26. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog, sc in next sc; FO ,
leaving long end. (9 sc )
• Add more stuffing if necessary to firm up top of arm.
• Finish as for left arm. Add the sleeve cap (if desired) and sleeve cuff.
ATTACH ARMS:
First use pins to first mark the location of the arms on each side. Start with a 30-inch
(76cm) length of upholstery or other very strong thread. Thread it onto a 5-inch (13cm)
doll needle, double, but do not knot the ends. Insert needle into shoulder area, and push
through body and out the same place on the opposite side; leave a 3-inch tail of thread
protruding from first side. Insert the needle back into the body 1 rnd below the exit point,
push through body, and bring out 1 rnd below the protruding tail. Go back into the body
in the exact place where the tail is, through the body, and back out on the other side in
the same place as the lower point of the joint. Pull the thread on both sides of the body at
the same time to indent the arm sockets a bit. Insert the needle into the first arm between
the 2nd and 3rd rnd from the top, making sure that you have the thumb pointing upward!
* Insert the needle back into the same place, dip needle down and back up to catch some
stuffing to anchor the thread, then back out arm in same place as entry.* If you have
made sleeve caps, make sure you don't catch the fabric of the cap when you insert the
needle back into the outside of the arm. Go back into body in same place, through body
and back out opposite side in same place, 2 stitches below where thread tail protrudes,
then into 2nd arm. Repeat * to * for 2nd arm. Insert the needle back into the same place,
push back through to opposite side of body, and back out same place as before. (Repeat
the process once more if desired, but be careful not to catch the joint thread inside the
body or arms.) Cut thread, leaving a 5-inch (13cm) tail. Pull firmly to force the arms
tightly against the body. Make sure arms are snug against body, then tie off both sets of
tails, using a surgeon's knot. Thread the ends onto a needle, and pull through the body to
hide ends; clip close to body.
APRON:
1. Beg ch-3 counts as dc unless otherwise indicated. Ch 18 with white, sc in 2nd ch
from hook and in ea ch across; turn piece right to left. (17 sc)
2. Working in FL, sl st in 1st sc, ch 3, 3 dc in next sc, (2 dc in next sc, 3 dc in next sc)
across to last sc, 2 dc in last dc; ch 1, turn. Mark row 2 as RS. (41 dc)
3. Sc in 1st dc, (ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next dc, sc in next dc) 10 times;
turn right to left. (10 shells)
4. Sl st in 1st sc, ch 4, (sk next ch-1 sp, sc bet the next 2 dc, ch 1, sk next dc and ch-1 sp,
2 dc in next sc, ch 1) 10 times across; ch 1, turn. (9 shells, 2 half-shells)

12
 13

5. Sc in next dc, (ch 1, sk next dc and ch-1 sp ch-1 sp, 2 dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next ch-1
sp, sc bet next 2 dc) 9 times, ch 1, sk next dc and ch-1 sp, 2 dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next ch,
sc in next ch (3rd ch of ch-4); turn right to left. (10 shells)
6 - 9. Repeat rows 4 and 5 twice; FO after row 9.
RUFFLED TRIM (OPTIONAL):
1. Working down the side edge with RS facing, join white with sl st bet rows 1 and 2;
make 12 sc evenly spaced down the side of the apron, turn the corner and make 3 sc in
the 1st sc on row 9, then sc in ea sc, ch-1 sp, and dc across to last sc on row 9, 3 sc in the
last sc, turn the corner and make 12 sc evenly spaced up the side edge of the apron; FO
with sl st bet rows 2 and 1. (78 sc, 2 sl st)
2. With RS facing and working in BL, join white with sl st in 1st sc on row 1, (sc, hdc,
dc) in same pl, 3 dc in ea sc around to last sc, (dc, hdc, sc, sl st) in last sc.
BIB:
1. With RS facing, join white with sc in 3rd free lp of waistband foundation ch, sc in next
12 free lps; ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
2 – 7. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. At end of row 7 do not ch 1; FO. (13 sc)
• Sew one of the shorter pieces of white ribbon to each side of the bib at the top edges.
• Sew one of the longer pieces of white ribbon to each edge of the waist band.
• Optional: Sew a red ribbon rose to the center front of the apron.
• Put the apron on Mrs. Claus; wrap the waist ties around her waist, and tie into a bow
at the center back. Wrap the straps around the back of her neck and tie into a bow. Trim
ends to desired length, and apply fray-stop to the ends of the ribbons (optional).
COLLAR (OPTIONAL): USE 1 STRAND OF WHITE.
1. Ch 25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across; ch 1, turn. (24 sc)
2. Working in BL, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc) twice, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc,
2 sc in next sc; ch 1, turn. (28 sc)
3. Working in BL, (sc in next sc, ch 2) across, ending with sc in last sc; FO.
• Row 3 is RS. Pin the collar to the body around the neck with the opening in the front.
Sew in place.
FINISHING TOUCHES:
• Sew a 2mm pearl to each ear lobe as earrings.
• Shade Mrs. Santa's cheeks with pencil or makeup blush. You may want to add a little
pink to the tip of her nose, and the insides of her ears, too.
• With a very fine marker, use a tiny dabbing motion to line the top half of the doll's eyes.
• Sew or glue a red ribbon rose to the head, placing it next to the bun, slightly to one side
or the other.

For questions or to notify the designer of errors, send email to

bluebearymailbox@aol.com. Happy crocheting!!

13
14

Some Internet Sources for Supplies

Punch Thread:
http://www.tedsfromthreads.com
Crochet Thread, Tatting Thread and Yarn:
www.anniesattic.com (double knitting, size 10, 20, 30 cotton, sport weight)
http://www.thethreadexchange.com/ (Valdani thread, nylon thread)
http://www.joann.com
http://www.maggiescrochet.com
Eyes, Cotter Pins and Disks:
http://www.tedsfromthreads.com
http://www.edinburghimports.com/index.asp
http://www.sassybearsandfabrics.com/
http://www.bearycheap.com/index.html
Crochet Hooks:
http://www.tedsfromthreads.com
http://www.lacysusan.com/Pins_and_Tools/pins_and_tools.html
http://www.joann.com
http://www.maggiescrochet.com
Upholstery Thread:
http://www.edinburghimports.com/index.asp
Nylon Thread:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
Tiny Buttons and Ribbon Roses:
www.tedsfromthreads.com
www.sassybearsandfabrics.com
Ribbons, Buttons, Fancy Trim:
www.Mjtrim.com
www.buttonsgaloreandmore.com

Copyright 2008 by Sue Pendleton – All rights reserved.

This pattern may not be used to mass-produce dolls. The purchaser of this pattern may,
however, sell the dolls he or she creates from the pattern.

14
 15

15
16

www.bluebearytreasures.com

16