Biomimetic LRF Complex

Description

Natural butter from Astrocaryum genus tree kernels.

INCI Name

(SUGGESTED) Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter.

Introduction

Fats and Oils in Cosmetology

Fats and oils from vegetal and animal origins have been considered as the early emollients used. There are
records of their uses in cosmetics since 7000 B.C.1,2. Generally, fats and oils from vegetal sources overcome the
animal ones, keeping the advantages of emollience, grooming, safety and smoothing effect with a reduction on the
greasy sensation. 1
Emollients are substances that keep the skin smoothness and softness. They promote a protective effect
against dryness and irritation thus forming a barrier that prevents excessive dermal moisture loss. 3 In addition to
the traditional moisturizing mechanisms, occlusion and humectancy, a third mechanism has recently been proposed:
the stabilization of intercellular lipids in the lamellar liquid crystalline phase. Fats and oils or products that may act
by this mechanism should provide long-lasting moisturization. 4
Lipids commonly used in moisturizers may reduce skin reactions to irritants and protects skin from getting
slack.5 The addition of those lipids as ingredients in topical use products promotes protection and replacement
effects of the several skin lipid layers.6
The use of physiologic lipids could lead to new forms of topical therapy for dermatoses (e.g., psoriasis,
atopic dermatitis, and irritant dermatitis) triggered by abnormal barrier function. 7

Astrocaryum sp
On Astrocaryum genus include a large number of palm species found naturally in the Brazilian Amazon, for
example: A. acaule Mart, A. aculeatissimum (Schott) Burret, A. aculeatum G. Meyer, A. alatum H.F. Loomis, A.
awarra DeVriese, A. burity Barb. Rodr, A. campestre Mart, A. carnosum Kahn & Mill, A. caudescens Barb. Rodr,
A. chambira Burret, A. chonta Mart, A. confertum H. Wendl. Ex-Burret, A. cuatrecasanum Dugand, A. echinatum
Barb. Rodr, A. farinae, A. giganteum Barb. Rodr, A. gratum Kahn & Mill, A. gymnopus Burret, A. gynacanthum Mart,
A. horridum Barb. Rodr, A. huaimi Mart, A. huebneri Burret, A. huicungo Dammer ex Burret, A. jauari Mart., A.
javarense (Trail) Trail ex Drude., A. kewense Barb. Rodr., A. leiospatha Barb. Rodr., A. macrocalyx Burret., A.
macrocarpum Huber., A. malybo Karsten., A. manaoense Barb. Rodr., A. mexicanum Liebm. ex Mart., A. munbaca
Mart., A. murumuru Mart., A. paramaca Mart., A. perangustatum Kahn & Mill., A. pygmaeum Drude., A. rodriguesii

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Trail., A. sciophilum (Miq.) Pulle., A. scopatum Kahn & Mill., A. standleyanum L. H. Bailey., A. trachycarpum Burret.,
A. triandrum Galeano, Bernal & Kahn, A ulei Burret, A. urostachys Burret, A. vulgare Mart., A. weddellii Drude, A.
Yauaperyense Barb. Rodr.8, as shown in some Figure 1.

Astrocaryum tucuma Astrocarium alatum

Astrocarium alata Astrocaryum murumuru

Figure 1: Astrocarym genus.

Biomimetic LRF Complex is the lipid material, mainly triglycerides, obtained from the kernels of the fruit of
Astrocaryum genus palm trees of the Amazon rainforest, especially in the states of Acre and Amazonas. Biomimetic
LRF Complex is a natural butter obtained by cold pressing, without the use of chemical solvents, a process that
conserves all its natural characteristics that guarantee softness, hydration and protection for dry skin. In hair the
restoration of life and the brightness is a guaranteed benefit.

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 Characteristics of plants:
The palms of Astrocaryum genus grow among small groups of palm trees. Its trunk reaches up to 10 meters
tall and has black thorns. One known feature is up to the grip of old leaves on the surface of the trunk. The leaves
measure up to the four meters and are green-silver. Another feature of the palm trees of this kind is that their
clusters, filled with nuts, grow pointing upwards.
In Table 1 is shown the fatty acid composition of two of the most representative species of the Astrocaryum
genus.9

Table 1 – Fatty acid composition of almond butter of fruit of palm tree from Astrocaryum genus.
Fatty acids A. tucumã * A. murumuru *
C8:0 1.9 2.7
C10:0 1.7 2.0
C12:0 50.6 51.6
C14:0 23.7 25.8
C16:0 5.3 6.0
C18:0 2.5 2.9
C18:1 9.3 5.7
C18:2 3.6 3.0
C18:3 0.1 0.1
C20:0 0.1 0.1
Saturated 85.9 91.0
Unsaturated 13.0 8.8
Source: Mambrim & Barrera-Arellano, 1995.9

Benefits
The Biomimetic LRF Complex brings numerous benefits for the skin and hair.
For the skin is an excellent emollient. It forms a protective film that helps the skin retain moisture leading
to an optimal hydration for dry skin.
For hair, because it has a balanced fatty acid composition, restores the natural hydrolipidic layer, providing
shine, softness, hydration and protection to the hair. It is ideal for treating hair lifeless and damaged. It is strongly
recommended its use in Afro-ethnic products.

Tests

In Vivo Efficacy
Evaluation of the maintenance of skin barrier after application of a body lotion (with 0.2%, 1.0% and 3.0%
w/w Biomimetic LRF Complex) in humans.

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 Analysis TEWL reduction compared to placebo

Graph 1: Increase in TEWL index (T1= 1 hour, T2= 2 hours, T3= 3 hours e T4= 4 hours)

Analysis of the protective effect on skin barrier

(% improvement)
100 94,8
% Improvement of the cutaneous barrier

80

60 54,7

40
29,3

20

0
0.2% 1.0% 3.0%
Base with Biomimetic LRF Complex

Graph 2: Improvement of the cutaneous barrier after x time.

Under the experimental conditions adopted and taking into account the evolution of the instrumental
parameters we can consider that after 1 hour:
 Body lotion with 0.2% w/w Biomimetic Complex LRF promotes a restoration of skin barrier effect of
29.3% compared to the base.
 Body lotion with 1.0% w/w Biomimetic Complex LRF promotes a restoring skin barrier effect of 54.7%
compared to the base.
 Body lotion with 3.0% w/w Biomimetic Complex LRF promotes a skin barrier recovery effect of 94.8%
compared to base.

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 Appreciation in humans of the cosmetic qualities and efficacy of two hair product lines after applications
under controlled conditions
This study evaluated the efficacy and the cosmetic qualities of Biomimetic LRF Complex 2% w/w conditioner
and phenyltrimeticone 2% w/w conditioner in a volunteer panel, after a single application. The products application
was controlled and executed by a hair salon professional. The efficacy and cosmetic qualities were assessed
subjectively by a salon professional and volunteers, through notes at the end of treatment about the cosmetic
qualities.

Easy to rinse off 7,2

8,2

Ease to use 7,2

8,2

Smoothness 6,6
7,6

Conditioning 6,6
7,6

Volume 6,6
7,6

Combability 7
7,8

Detangling 6,9
7,9
Notes

PHENYL TRIMETICONE 2% COND. BIOMIMETIC LRF COMPLEX 2% COND.

Graph 3: Appreciation by the hair saloon professional with note – wet hair.

Static charge 10
90

General conditioning 40
60

Volume 30
70

Smoothness 40
60

Shine 40
60

Combability/Detangling 40
60
% Volunteers appreciability

PHENYL TRIMETICONE 2% COND. BIOMIMETIC LRF COMPLEX 2 % COND.

Graph 4: Cosmetic appreciability referred by volunteers.

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 According to the results obtained by a subjective analysis of the Professional and the included volunteers in
the study, the Biomimetic LRF Complex was better appreciated compared with the pheniltrimethicone product
and showed better efficacy in combing and detangling.

Application and Usage Indications

Creams, lotions, serums, cream oil, shampoo, conditioners and masks.

Physicochemical Aspects and Compatibility

Unknown incompatibility.

Suggested Concentration

0.2 to 10.0% (w/w).

Bibliographical References

1- Berdick M. Role of Fats and Oils in Cosmetics. Journal of the American Oil Chemists Society. 49: (7) 406-&
1972.
2- Denavarre Mg. Oils and Fats, Historical Cosmetics. Journal of the American Oil Chemists Society .55: (4) 435-
437 1978.
3- Hamilton, H.D. – Emollient Oils. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 48: (7) A332, 1971.
4- Barker Mo. Moisturizers of Tomorrow. Journal Of Toxicology-Cutaneous And Ocular Toxicology 11. (3)
257-262 1992.
5- Loden, M. & Andersson, A.C. - Effect of Topically Applied Lipids on Surfactant-Irritated Skin.British Journal of
Dermatology.134: (2) 215-(220 Feb 1996).
6- Schaich, B. & Korting, H.C - Effects of Cosmetics and Dermatics on Skin Lipids and By Hyperproliferation.
Hautartzt. 43: (7) 403-408 1992.
7- Feingold Kr, Thornfeldt Cr, Elias Pm & Maoqiang M - Optimization Of Physiological Lipid Mixtures For Barrier
Repair., Journal Of Investigative Dermatology.106: (5) 1096-1101 May 1996. ).
8- http://www.virtualherbarium.org/vh/auth/palm.html
9- Mambrim MCT e Barrera-Arellano D, “Characterization of palm tree fruit oils from Brazilian Amazonia region”
[Caracterização de óleos de frutos de palmeiras da região amazônica brasileira], GRASAS Y ACEITES, 48: (3)
154-158 maio-junho 1997.

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 The information contained in this Literature is provided in good faith. We recommend the test of our products in order to verify the
convenience of their use before adopting them at industrial level. Such information shall not be understood as concession or permission to
use the methods or compositions covered by any patent. This material reproduction is prohibited without the CHEMYUNION LTDA
authorization.
SA: 10756/16

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