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 WELCOME
Photo: Stuart Holmes
What makes a mountain?
YOU MIGHT CALL the Lake District’s
mountains ‘small’ on world terms, but on the
scale of time they are vast. The area’s heartland
was born in the depths of the ocean 450 million
years ago during a tumultuous time of volcanic
uproar, then thrust out of the sea by tectonic
violence to form a range the size of the Himalayas. Over subsequent
eons these mountains were gradually eroded down to their current
size, with their outlines still holding the shape of the glaciers that
ground through them just a few thousand years ago. They have been
shaped by deep time, extreme heat, ice and the ocean; they are vastly
older than dinosaurs, flowers, or indeed most life on land.
As with many people, the Lake District is where my love for
mountains was born, seeded during childhood or adolescent
holidays with my family. In the midst of the rocky intricacy of the
Scafell massif, you have vast crags with some of the world’s oldest
climbing routes, home to arctic-alpine plant communities; waterfalls
cascading over rocky terraces and tumbling through rocky cataracts;
lush, cavernous gills full of vegetation; beautiful tarns set into the
landscape like jewels. The experience of walking here isn’t that
different atmospherically – or in the strain it can put through your
legs – from the likes of the Pyrenees or the Alps; except those
mountains are a lot bigger. But what makes mountains is the
atmosphere and the emotions they evoke, not simply size. I don’t
think you need to be familiar with the Lake District’s geological past
to intuit something of its scope and scale in the way it makes you feel;
something it shares with much grander mountain ranges.
This distinctive landscape, of course, was also one of the places
Get in touch: tgo.ed@kelsey.co.uk @TGOMagazine
Great Gable’s Napes
Needle: the ‘birthplace’ of
rock climbing
that helped to create the modern western world’s love affair with
mountains as a whole. Pillars of the Romantic movement like
Wordsworth, Coleridge and Ruskin helped affect that sea change
where society went from seeing the high places as harsh and
unproductive wastelands to places of adventure and transcendence,
sublime antidotes to the industrial world. The fact that the Lake
District has always had its own industries – mining, sheep farming,
tourism – has never quite taken the appeal away from this seductive
myth. The other day I watched the sun rise after a wild camp on
Crinkle Crags, and watching that burning space orb rise above the
Langdale Pikes was enough to send me into Romantic raptures.
This issue of The Great Outdoors spans from Spain to Wales to
the Scottish Highlands and beyond, but we have a particular focus
on England’s much-celebrated mountain kingdom. In our lead
feature (p26), our team of Lake District connoisseurs rounds up
their favourite routes up Wainwright-listed fells (another central
figure in Lakeland history) – and then, just for fun, also gives us
their most-loathed approaches. Our Wild Walks section (p78)
also has a strong Lake District flavour. Enjoy!
Finally, I just want to direct your attention to the reader survey we
will be running on our website by the time you read this. We always
want to know what our readers think, and as TGO continues to evolve
your feedback is more important than ever. Fill it in – and potentially
win some goodies – at thegreatoutdoorsmag.com/survey2023
Carey Davies, Editor
@carey_davies
/TGOMagazine thegreatoutdoorsmag.com
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 3
 CONTENTS
July 2023

Escape
Inspiration to get away
8 Langdale 26 Lake
District
Of the famous listed Lakeland fells,
Almanac which are Wainwrights, and
which are ‘Wainwrongs’?
In the outdoors this month
11 Creator of the month
12 Reader pages
18 Opinion
14 Trail of the month
20 Weekender: Newcastle
24 Mountain portrait
100 Coastscript

“The next
stretch of
path was not
a path at all,
24 Mountain portrait
Jim Perrin considers a ‘very special place’:
the Cairngorms’ mighty Cairn Toul

but a tenuous
route through
a high, chaotic
limestone
wilderness”
Carey Davies, p51

On the cover
James Forrest on Great
Gable, by Stuart Holmes

44
Photo credit: Stuart Holmes

Epic Wales
Will Renwick tackles all 189 Welsh mountains
on a self-supported solo trek across his homeland

4 The Great Outdoors July 2023

“There was the Skye Cuillin in the distance, with the haar rising over
the sea in front of it, catching the dying embers of the sun.”
David Lintern, page 42

36 Strathfarrar
David Lintern returns to these Munros
on a thought-provoking backpacking trip
Skills
58 Hiking in heat

Gear
The latest products & reviews
61 Gear news
62 Sleeping bag comparative
68 Trip report

SUBSCRIBE
AND SAVE!
Turn to page
76 for details

Wild Walks
Varied routes across England,
Scotland and Wales

50
79 Ben Chonzie
81 Crummock Water
83 Bleaberry Fell & High Seat
85 Dow Crag &The Old Man of Coniston
87 Sergeant Man via Steel Fell
Picos de 89 Branstree & Selside Pike
Europa 91 Scafell Pike via Esk Hause
Carey Davies concedes 93 Pitch Hill
every day’s a school day 95 Bleak House
amidst these soaring
97 Hartland to Bude
Spanish peaks

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 5

IN THIS ISSUE
0HHWVRPHRIWKHIRONZKRPDGHWKLVPDJð

David Lintern, in a break

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PRXQWDLQVKDVMXVWUHWXUQHGIURPD
ZHHNèVZDONDURXQGWKHFRDVWRI-XUD
DJHRORJLFDOZRQGHUODQGUHSOHWH www.thegreatoutdoorsmag.com
ZLWKPDQ\WLFNVDGGHUVIHUDOJRDWV THE GREAT OUTDOORS is published by
DQGVHDHDJOHVThe Great Outdoors’ .HOVH\0HGLD7KH*UDQDU\'RZQV&RXUW<DOGLQJ+LOO<DOGLQJ.HQW0($/
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WKHDPRXQWRISODVWLFZDVKHGXSRQWKHVKRUHVRIWKLVZLOGDQG EDITOR Carey Davies, carey.davies@kelsey.co.uk

UHPRWHLVODQG,QWKLVLVVXHKHUHWXUQVWRWKHKLOOVDIWHUDSHULRG COMMISSIONING EDITOR ART EDITOR Helen Harper-Collins

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6 The Great Outdoors July 2023

Get adventure inspiration 76
you never knew you GE
PA TIO
NO
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needed. Subscribe to O RI
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8 The Great Outdoors July 2023
 Escape

Langdale,
Lake District
“I took a swift hike up Loughrigg
Fell in the hopes of capturing some
of the moody landscape views that
surround the fell. The Langdale
Pikes are proud and prominent
in this view, and easily recognisable.
“Langdale has always been one
of my favourite places in the Lake
District, and the view you get from
Loughrigg Fell is fantastic. This
day was a mix of cloud and the odd
burst of sun, but I waited for the
light to hit at the right time and
snapped this photo.”

Photo by Mark Pickersgill

Insta: @theyorkshirewanderer

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 9

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or scan the QR code here
 ALMANAC JULY
LQëHKLçV
Photo credit: Kate S Appleby
&UHDWè
OF THE
KATE APPLEBY
MONTH
Cumbrian-born adaptive adventurer
Founder of Adaptive Adventurers, Kate Appleby is using her own experience to create space for
more peopleto enjoy the outdoors
“THE OUTDOORS SAVED MY LIFE,”
Kate Appleby tells The Great Outdoors.
Born in Cumbria, her deep relationship with
the fells is “life-affirming”. After an abusive
childhood and “a complicated upbringing”
that took her away from the Lake District,
Kate vowed to return to her happy place.
Now, the 30-year-old scientific-
consultant-turned-public speaker can be
found at home in the fells, climbing, hiking,
paddleboarding, biking – to name a few of
her preferred outdoor pursuits. Kate, a
self-titled jack-of-all-trades, equates her
hobbies to friends: “having many is to have
different people to hug, support and comfort
you,” she says.
Indeed, Kate needs variety on her
adventures. She was diagnosed with lupus
at 16 – a blow that “felt like the final straw.”
12 READER 14 TOTM 18 OPINION
PAGE
Kate owes a lot to
the outdoors
A Cumbrian wild camp
Back then, Kate explained that after
surviving domestic and sexual abuse, “an
attempt on my life felt like the only viable
option”. She overcame and, in living with
lupus, the outdoors became her “saviour” –
a place where she could turn her back on
the pain of previous chapters and heal.
Having different ways to enjoy adventure
is essential to Kate as she balances the
consequences of her complex physical
health conditions – including Raynaud’s,
Sjrogen’s, asthma and postural orthostatic
tachycardia syndrome – with the mental
health benefits of being outdoors. She has
learned when to push through pain – as in
her Bob Graham round – and when to
accept it. Kate can be mountaineering one
day and unable to get out bed the next on
this “isolating roller coaster” of invisible
20
WEEKENDER
24 MOUNTAIN
PORTRAIT
Summiting Helvellyn
Lakeland is the perfect
place for a paddle
illness that regularly manifests in join pain,
chronic fatigue, infections, migraines and
digestive issues. Aside from the extra safety
considerations Kate builds into her time
outdoors, everyday adaptation is key.
Motivated by her own experiences and
“arising from a need to remove barriers
preventing folk from accessing the outdoors”,
Kate founded a social enterprise, Adaptive
Adventurers. It will offer community and
funding to others, as well as advocacy that is
already seeing Kate consult with the national
park authority on access to toilets, hard
standing disabled parking, gates rather than
stiles, and improved paths in the Lake
District. She hopes it will create meaningful
change and open this magical place up to
more people who need it – just like she does.
Q @katesappleby / adaptive-adventurers.com
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 11
LETTERS
Readers’ page
Share your views, your experiences and your favourite photos
tgo.ed@kelsey.co.uk
Postal address The Editor, The Great Outdoors,
Kelsey Publishing Ltd, The Granary, Downs Court,
Yalding Hill, Yalding, Kent ME18 6AL.
Please include a phone number and postal address.

Can apps do better for people with disablities?

The Great Outdoors is still receiving many responses from hillwalkers after we published an
article earlier this year investigating the crowdsourced data used by popular hiking apps. Mike
Beaumont is among them, but he has another perspective to add...

Walking and mountaineering have always

suffered from poor access to information.
The information is there, along with many
superb courses; but it’s not openly obvious
to the many newcomers to the great

Photo credit: KMRT

outdoors. Access and routes for people with
disabilities are even more obscure. More
people are seeking to access the outdoors, in
a variety of ways using aids like walking
sticks, crutches, wheelchairs, mobility
scooters (including all-terrain versions) and
life support systems, but this information is
not widely publicised either.
A few years ago I had to have my lower
right leg rebuilt after a major traffic incident,
which required the fitting of an external
metal frame (external fixator, or to be more
precise, a Taylor Spatial Frame) to hold the
multiple broken sections of the tibia in place
for almost two years, until they joined.
The procedure didn’t quite go as intended,
but I’ve moved on, and the hospital and
supporting medical teams have been just
brilliant. In preparation for the time when
I would be able to get back outdoors, the
difficulty I had trying to find disabled
access information, via print or the Internet,
A call-out on Green
Gable with the RAF
and Keswick MRTs
was horrendously worse than scaling an
icy cliff face without proper gear! With the
experience I gained over the decades as an
able-bodied walker, I can seek out safe routes;
but not everyone has that background.
Whilst there are organisations out there who
cater for virtually all disabilities, there are
many who would like the opportunity to go
out safely and independently. This, I feel,
is where many hiking apps could help to
improve route information. Yes, I know
it is a lot to ask; but what cost is a life?
In the interim, disabled or not, The Great
Outdoors is still a great magazine and I still
enjoy reading the gear reports and various
routes – keep up the good work!
Mike Beaumont
Much-missed gear
Elsewhere in the TGO inbox, MG
Marvin had a question for other readers.
I wonder if other readers regret the
passing of certain gear items which
served well in the past but have since
disappeared. My own list includes Ron
Hill Treks Tracks walking trousers:
great for hiking but sadly discontinued.
A firm called Wintergear made
excellent trousers in the same style but
with thicker material, again no longer
available. Craghoppers also made a
great fleece trouser in a ski pant style
which was excellent for winter but is no
longer available. Why do firms stop
making these top-class items?
MG Marvin

Social media
The national park formerly known as the Brecon Beacons was all over the news recently after the park authority revealed that it will be reverting to
solely using the Welsh name for the region, Bannau Brycheiniog, in the future. Many beautiful Welsh place names have been lost – so the restoration
of Welsh names for national parks is to be applauded, argued Will Renwick. Here’s what our readers thought...

bipedal shenanigans (@bipedal_
simon/Twitter) Can’t see me
changing to be honest. The BBNP
authority can call themselves
whatever they choose, home will
always be the Beacons to me.
Iain Cameron @theiaincameron/
Twitter) With stories like these,
I often wonder what speakers
of a current Celtic language (e.g.
Welsh, Gaelic) thought when
those who spoke the previous,
pre-Celtic ones complained their
culture and language was being
eroded. It’s a fascinating topic.
DragonsofWales (@
DragonsofWales/Twitter)
Great article. Diolch.
Phil (@CasegFraith/Twitter)
Welsh is a British language, while
English and Scots are Germanic
languages and Scottish Gaelic
is an Irish language. We must
do everything we can to make
sure that an indigenous British
language survives!
Derwent 2 (@derwenttwo/
Twitter) The BBNP didn’t switch;
Bannau Brycheiniog has always
been there. They just dropped
the English!
Chris Knight (@ohwhataknight_/
Twitter) A great article, Will!
Brian Moran (@WmsGwyn/
Twitter) Thank you for your
thoughtful, reasoned and
sympathetic piece. I’ve always
been of the mind that people
who visit our national parks on
a regular basis have a genuine
DIĆQLW\ZLWKQRWMXVWWKHSODFH
but the history, the heritage, the
myths and legends - and all that
encapsulates.
Matthew Malthouse (@
calmeilles/Twitter) This is just a
stepping stone to a Brycheiniog
independence movement, isn’t it!?

12 The Great Outdoors July 2023

 Your adventures this month
The Lake District has long been a favourite of The Great Outdoors’ readers. With towering fells, scrambles up to quiet camp spots, and the chance
to watch the sun rise over its plentiful waters, it’s a hillwalkers’ paradise. Here are just some of the magical mountain moments you’ve shared
with us on social media, from Lakeland with love.

Gemma McAuley (@wandering_wilma_/Instagram)

“An early morning hike up to Gummer’s How
in the Lake District to catch the sunrise and
see the most beautiful cloud inversion.”

Martin Hornsey (@martin_hornsey)

“Camping on Yewbarrow with views over
Wasdale on a sunny day in the Lakes”

[above] Amira Patel (@amira_thewanderlust)

“I’m so grateful to be surrounded by these beautiful mountains and I’m
working my way through them slowly. The view of Buttermere from
Fleetwith Pike has to be one of my favourite spots in the Lakes.”

[right] Tom Green (@tom.w.green/Instagram)

“Cracking views over to the Coniston fells from Pavey Ark. The person
at the bottom of the frame was seemingly admiring them as well!”
ALMANAC
TRAIL
OF THE
MONTH

Cambrian Way
This challenging coast-to-coast crossing of Wales via its mountainous spine proved surprisingly
controversial in its early days – but it has since become an established long-distance classic.
Will Renwick walks us through it...

THE CAMBRIAN WAY

AT A GLANCE
DISTANCE: 479km / 298 miles
ASCENT: 22,460m / 73,700ft
START: Cardiff FINISH: Conwy
DURATION: 15-20 days

The Cambrian Way was conceived by

7RQ\'UDNHLQ+DYLQJSOD\HGD
large role in establishing the Offa’s Dyke
Path and Cotswold Way, he turned his
attention to creating what he dubbed
the ‘mountain connoisseur’s walk’, a
route that would take in Wales’
mountainous spine in one south- to-
north journey from coast to coast.
But Drake’s idea didn’t quite get off
the ground in the way he’d wanted. The
British Mountaineering Council’s North
Wales committee was concerned about
the proposed section through the tricky
WHUUDLQRIWKH5KLQRJ\GGDQGVXEVHTXHQW
resistance from the National Farmers
Union –, and even Snowdonia National
Park – ultimately led to funding for the
trail’s creation being put on hold. Tired of
the slow progress, Drake decided to
simply launch the route himself,
XQRIĆFLDOO\+HHYHQZURWHDJXLGHERRN
which would be reprinted after his
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The Cambrian Way has come a long
way in recent years thanks to the
continued efforts of the Cambrian Way
7UXVWDQGDOVRWKH5DPEOHUV&DPEULDQ
Way Working Group. The route is now
shown on Ordnance Survey maps,
extensive waymarking has been carried
RXWDQGWKHĆUVWRIĆFLDOJXLGHERRNZDV
SXEOLVKHGE\&LFHURQH3UHVVLQ
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south as I liked the idea of walking back
to my home just outside of Cardiff, and I
was completely enamoured. I can’t think
of a better way to become immersed in
wild Wales. Since then I’ve become
somewhat devoted to the trail and in
,MRLQHGWKH&DPEULDQ:D\7UXVW
to help to protect the legacy Tony Drake
created and left for all of us to enjoy.
THE ROUTE & ITINERARY
Whilst the Cambrian Way can be tackled
in whichever direction one so chooses,
Tony Drake’s recommended direction was
south-to-north. That way, walkers could
build themselves gradually towards the
big mountains of Eryri-Snowdonia, with
Wales’ highest mountain then forming the
ĆQDOKXUGOHRUFKHUU\RQWKHFDNHEHIRUH
the approach to Conwy. That direction also
means the sun and the prevailing wind will,
by and large, be on your back.
The route might start right in the heart
of Wales’ capital city at Cardiff Castle,
EXWWKHĆUVWGD\RIZDONLQJLVVXUSULVLQJO\
green. There’s little to no road or street
walking, with the trail following parkland
DQGZRRGODQGWKDWćDQNVWKH5LYHU7DII
until you’re eventually out of the city and
on the edge of the South Wales Valleys.
The Cambrian Way then follows an upland
course all the way to the edge of the Black
Mountains where the Bannau Brycheiniog
%UHFRQ%HDFRQV VWUHWFKEHJLQV5RXJKO\D
week will be spent curling around the broad
ridges of the Black Mountains, climbing Pen
y Fan and then moving over to the park’s
western boundary where the towering
escarpment of the Carmarthen Fans lies.
This can be climbed, or you can skirt around
its base if you fancy a less demanding
approach to Llandovery.
Perhaps my favourite stretch of the
Cambrian Way comes next. That’s the
steep-sided Doethie Valley, where verdant
landscapes gradually give way, taking you
up into the high moorlands of the Elenydd.
The altitude gets no higher than 752 metres
(Pen Pumlumon Fawr) along this roughly
week-long stretch, but many regard it as the
hardest part of the Cambrian Way. It’s boggy
country and the path often fades away,
leaving you with no choice but to navigate
WKURXJKDPLQHĆHOGRIWXVVRFNV,Q
WKH5DPEOHUVDOORFDWHGVRPHRIWKHOHJDF\
funds that Tony Drake entrusted them with
to install waymarks along the Cambrian
Way, and whilst this was all completed
successfully, don’t expect National Trail
levels of signposting. This particular stretch
through Mid Wales is particularly light on
signage with certain sections requiring
self-navigation, particularly through the
PRRUODQGWKDWVXUURXQGVWKH7HLĆ3RROV

14 The Great Outdoors July 2023

 Illustration: Jeremy Ashcroft.
For personalised prints see
jeremyashcroftmaps.etsy.com

Slightly more manicured hill country

follows in the approach to Cadair Idris.
This spectacularly craggy 893-metre
mountain is then traversed in full before
a brief visit to sea level at Barmouth. You’ll
want to make sure you’re well replenished
and stocked up here because the next stage
WKURXJKWKHERXOGHUĆOOHGPRXQWDLQVRI
the Rhinogydd is demanding and remote. It
should take around two days before you’re
out the other side at Llyn Trawsfynydd.
The Cambrian Way then journeys into
the thick of Eryri where the mountains
might now be higher but the paths are at
least well-trodden and easier to follow. The Looking over Llyn y
Moelwynion and the shapely top of Cnicht Gadair on Cadair Idris
come next with an opportunity to restock
in the village of Beddgelert, then it’s up to
the summit of Yr Wyddfa, taking a crowd-
dodging route via Bwlch Main. The North
Wales coastline should come into full view
Photo credit: Shutterstock

here, weather permitting, but there’s still

a lot of walking to come – two days’-worth
for many – including the bouldery tops
of the Glyderau, a sharp descent to the
Ogwen Valley and a sharp ascent up to the Wild camping in Sunset over
the Rhinogydd Pen y Fan
&DUQHGGDXLQUHSO\7KHĆQDOVWUHWFKWKHQ

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 15

ALMANAC
The Cambrian Way seeks
the higher ground, meaning
camping is often the best –
or only – way to go
bobs along the long row of 3000-footers
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WKHEHJLQQLQJRI\RXUWULXPSKDQWGHVFHQW
to the sea.
ACCOMMODATION
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RSWLRQVDUHQèWLQWKHVDPHNLQGRIVXSSO\
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)RUWKLVUHDVRQPDQ\RIWKRVHZKRKLNH
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16 The Great Outdoors July 2023
&ODHUGGXQHDUWKH7HLĆ3RROV7\èQ\FRUQHO
RQHRIWKHWZREDVLFKRVWHOVWKDWDUHVHWLQ
IDQWDVWLFDOO\ZLOGORFDWLRQVLQWKH(OHQ\GG
LVFHUWDLQO\ZRUWKDYLVLWHYHQLILWèVMXVWIRUD
FKDWRYHUDFXSRIWHDDQGD:HOVKFDNHZLWK
WKHYROXQWHHUZDUGHQ
FOOD AND SUPPLIES
&DUGLII3RQW\SRRO$EHUJDYHQQ\
&ULFNKRZHOO/ODQGRYHU\%DUPRXWKDQG
&RQZ\IRUPWKHPDLQWRZQVDORQJWKH
URXWH%HWZHHQWKHPKLNHUVPXVWUHO\
RQYLOODJHVKRSVDQGSXEV2QP\RZQ
&DPEULDQ:D\ZDONWKHUHZDVQèWDVWDJH
ZKHUH,QHHGHGWRFDUU\PRUHWKDQWKUHH
GD\VèZRUWKRIVXSSOLHV/ODQGRYHU\WR
3RQWDUI\QDFK DOVRNQRZQDV'HYLOèV%ULGJH 
LVSHUKDSVWKHPRVWEDUUHQVWUHWFKEXW
DVOLJKWGHWRXURIIWKHWUDLOWRWKHVPDOOVKRS
DW3RQWUK\GIHQGLJDLGFDQVROYHDQ\VXSSO\
KHDGDFKHVKHUH
ESSENTIAL GEAR
:LWKWKHLQWHQVLW\RIVKHHSIDUPLQJLQWKH
XSODQGVRI:DOHV\RXFDQèWTXLWHEHVXUH
WKDWDQ\QDWXUDOZDWHUVRXUFHVDORQJWKH
WUDLODUHJRLQJWREHFOHDQDQGWKHUHIRUHD
JRRGZDWHUĆOWHUZLOOEHDYHU\KDQG\WKLQJ
WRKDYHZLWK\RX*DLWHUVZRXOGDOVREHDQ
DVVHWHVSHFLDOO\WKURXJKWKHWXIWHGJUDVVHV
LQWKRVHSDWKOHVVVWUHWFKHVLQ0LG:DOHV
FURTHER RESOURCES
7KHRIĆFLDO&DPEULDQ:D\ZHEVLWHå
cambrianway.org.uk åZKLFKLVUXQE\WKH
&DPEULDQ:D\7UXVWKDVDQH[FHOOHQWOLVW
RIDFFRPPRGDWLRQSURYLGHUVDORQJWKH
URXWHDVZHOODVIUHH*3;GRZQORDGVIRU
HDFKVWUHWFK$VIRUDFRPSOHWHJXLGHWR
WKHWUDLO7RQ\'UDNHèVERRNLVQRORQJHULQ
SULQWEXWKLVNQRZOHGJHDQGZLVGRPKDV
EHHQFDUULHGLQWR&LFHURQHèVJXLGHERRN
Walking The Cambrian WayZKLFKZDV
ZULWWHQE\*HRUJH7RGDQG5LFKDUG7\OHU
Photo credit: Shutterstock
WZRRIWKH&DPEULDQ:D\7UXVWèVORQJ
VWDQGLQJPHPEHUV7KHQWKHUHèVWKH
)DFHERRNJURXS:DONLQJWKH&DPEULDQ
:D\ZKLFKLVDOZD\VEXV\ZLWKXVHIXO
LQIRUPDWLRQDQGLQVLJKWVIURPWKRVHZKR
KDYHZDONHGRUDUHZDONLQJWKHWUDLO
Love the Lake District?

Crummock Water by Andrew Locking

Become a member of Friends of the Lake District

and help look after this special place

We are the only membership organisation dedicated

to protecting and enhancing Lake District and
Cumbrian landscapes

FREE GIFT. ..
.. . for The Great Outdoors readers when you join Friends of the
Lake District as a member.
Enter the offer code TGOFLD when joining online and you’ll
receive a FREE Lake District walks book!

Member benefits:
- Welcome pack and magazine
- Lake District discounts and offers
- Events, walks, talks, and volunteer days

Visit our website www.friendsofthelakedistrict.org.uk/types-of-membership to join today

@FriendsofLakes www.friendsofthelakedistrict.org.uk
Tel: 01539 720788
FriendsoftheLakeDistrict Email: info@fld.org.uk
friendsoflakes Registered Charity Number: 1100759

T&Cs: Free book available to new members only, with a UK address, when joining via our online form. While stocks last. Offer expires 30.9.23.
‘15 Short Walks in the Lake District: Windermere, Ambleside & Grasmere’, by Jonathan and Lesley Williams, is published by Cicerone, RRP £9.95.
ALMANAC
The lost history of
ůǕŔǓ Ǖǔ
COMMENT
by Rachel Hewitt ǔǓ ǕǕ
Campaigners for women’s suffrage played a leading role in the early
history of mountaineering – but, argues Rachel Hewitt, the way
they were phased out of the sport is a salutary lesson for today
IN 1911, Annie Smith Peck climbed to the
21,000-foot summit of Nevado Coropuna in
the Peruvian Andes and unfurled a ‘Votes for
Women’ banner. The following year, Fanny
%XOORFN:RUNPDQOHGWKHĆUVWH[SHGLWLRQWR
H[SORUHWKH6LDFKHQ*ODFLHULQ%DOWLVWDQDQG
was photographed holding aloft a newspaper
with a ‘Votes for Women’ headline.
I describe in my new book In Her Nature
how, from around the mid-1800s, women
turned en masse to outdoor activities,
because they offered emancipation from
‘the shackles of conventionality’, as Victorian
climber Lizzie Le Blond put it. Suffragists
such as Mary E Crawford, president of
Winnipeg’s Political Equality League, loved
mountaineering because it helped women
WRçJDLQFRQĆGHQFHZLWKHYHU\VWHSèDQGWR
‘gaze out upon a new world’: to hope for a
brighter feminist future.
Nowadays, there is a tendency to think of
outdoor leisure as an ‘escape from the real
world’ and ‘an outlet to escape politics’. But
suffragette-mountaineers understood that
access to the great outdoors was inseparable
from politics – and, in particular, they saw how
women were being driven out of the outdoors
amidst a anti-feminist backlash. The same is
happening today, and we can learn from these
women about how to resist it.
Suffragists were also passionate about
outdoor sport because it had become a key
battleground for women’s rights. Over the
19th Century, feminists had achieved legal
wins that increased women’s rights in the
public sphere and in their families. Many
PHQH[SHULHQFHGWKLVDVDUDLGRQWKHLURZQ
SRZHULQ+HQU\-DPHVèVQRYHObThe
Bostonians, Basil Ransom was dismayed that
“the whole generation is womanised; the
masculine tone is passing out of the world”.
Men couldn’t necessarily stall women’s
legislative progress – so they pushed back
in other areas, including women’s access to
the outdoors. Through the 1880s and 1890s,
18 The Great Outdoors July 2023
many European and North American outdoor
clubs and resorts had welcomed women.
But by the end of the 19th Century, men were
rewriting the rules of mountaineering clubs
WRH[FOXGHZRPHQ)RUH[DPSOHWKH6ZLVV
Alpine Club, which had accepted female
members from 1863, decided in 1907 to
kick women out. As a consequence, female
mountaineers had less visibility in male-
dominated publications. On top of this,
PHQLQFUHDVLQJO\XVHGVH[XDOLQWLPLGDWLRQ
to drive active women out of the outdoors.
Numerous women wrote about how they’d
‘learned… to be afraid in broad daylight’
as suffragist Elizabeth Robins put it, because
of ‘the darker moods of men’, which put them
off walking and cycling on their own.
7RGD\PDQ\PHQH[SUHVVVLPLODUYLHZV
to Basil Ransom, especially online, and it’s
a commonplace belief that women’s rights
have eroded men’s power.
The great outdoors has, once again,
become a battleground. Men dominate
the visible face of nature pursuits and
contemporary sport. A ‘New Nature Writing’
anthology, which pledged to challenge male
bias, still only included two women to 17
men. Social inequalities that deter women
from outdoor pursuits – such as gendered
gaps in leisure time and disposable income –
have worsened since 2000, and particularly
VLQFHWKHSDQGHPLF0HQèVSXEOLFVH[XDO
harassment of active women has increased
VLJQLĆFDQWO\RYHUWKHODVW\HDUV2QFHDJDLQ
men are pushing back against feminism
by driving women out of the outdoors.
How do we protect women? We could
learn from the suffragist-mountaineers:
from their successes, and also from their
failures. Suffragists won the vote, but they
temporarily lost the battle for women’s right
WRURDP0HQZHUHDEOHWRH[FOXGHZRPHQ
in the early 20th Century, in part because
the organisation of sport and outdoor leisure
was largely decentralised and unregulated,
Annie Smith Peck in her (scandalously
masculine) mountaineering gear, 1911
and swayed by individuals’ prejudices. So to
protect women’s access to outdoor activities,
we need to turn to centralised mechanisms.
These include more robust legislation
and policing for the prosecution of street
harassment; legislation similar to Title IX
LQWKH86ZKLFKSURKLELWVVH[GLVFULPLQDWLRQ
in college sport; and greater transparency
and parity in how state funding is allocated
to projects designed to boost the activity
levels of men and women. (Evidently,
6SRUW(QJODQGGRHVQèWNHHSçVXIĆFLHQWO\
granular’ data about how much money it
contributes to male vs female activities.)
We also need to keep in mind the link
between outdoor leisure and politics,
which the suffragist-mountaineers
FOHDUO\LGHQWLĆHG$VWKH\SRLQWHGRXW
over 100 years ago, sport and outdoor
leisure are not ‘escapes from the real world’.
Women’s outdoor pursuits are particularly
vulnerable to the misogyny of the ‘real
world’, and only real-world reforms can
protect women’s freedom outdoors.
Photo credit: Alamy
„ Rachel Hewitt’s In Her Nature: How Women
Break Boundaries in the Great Outdoors
(Penguin Books) is out now
© 2022 American Pistachio Growers

In a recent study conducted by Cornell University

and published in the journal, Nutrients, the antioxidant
power of American-grown pistachios was measured
using the Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC)
and Cellular Antioxidant Activity (CAA) testing protocols.
For more information, visit AmericanPistachios.co.uk
ALMANAC
YOUR
WEEKEND
IN...
NEWCASTLE
At the foot of the Mourne Mountains in Northern
Ireland, this coastal town has some fantastically
atmospheric hiking and hillwalking on the doorstep.
Here’s our guide to having the best possible
adventurous weekend there...
Winter views in the Mournes
[right] Sunrise from Slieve
Loughshannagh
A BEAUTIFUL RANGE of coastal granite
mountains fringed by fragments of
temperate rainforest, Northern Ireland’s
Mourne Mountains are well-known across
the island of Ireland but are arguably
under-appreciated by hikers and outdoor
enthusiasts on the other side of the Irish
6HD%XWWKHSURĆOHRIWKHVHKLOOVLVVHWWR
be boosted by their designation as part of
a UNESCO Global Geopark, in recognition
of the landscape’s outstanding geological
heritage – a natural inheritance that has
become intertwined with the region’s
history and culture in fascinating ways.
Fantasy fans will also be in their element
here: the Mournes were used as a suitably
HSLFĆOPLQJORFDWLRQLQGame of Thrones,
and are also said to have inspired CS Lewis’s
visions of Narnia.
“The dark Mournes sweep down to
the sea,” as the song goes, and the seaside
resort town of Newcastle is a good place to
appreciate this, being as it is spectacularly
overlooked by the shapes of Slieve Donard,
the region’s 850m (2790ft) high point,
and its surrounding hills. The County
Down town promotes itself as the ‘activity
resort’ of Northern Ireland, and walkers
are well catered-for here, with the town
and its surroundings making an excellent
base for hiking and hillwalking in these
rugged, heathery hills, with their broad
backs punctuated with plunging crags and
20 The Great Outdoors July 2023
fortress-like tors. These aren’t hugely tall
summits, but they deliver a punch: the terrain
underfoot is often challenging and walks
sometimes begin from sea level, packing
in the elevation. Fans of the hills of Arran –
another compact range of maritime granite
mountains – will likely feel at home here.
The area around the Mournes also offers
ample scope to combine your hiking with
other types of outdoorsing, like mountain
biking or paddleboarding. And if you want
to contextualise your adventurous exploits,
there’s an array of cultural activities
allowing you to get an insight into the
region’s history. With its array of cafés and
restaurants, Newcastle is also an excellent
place to dip into the thriving local culinary
VFHQHDQGVDPSOHVRPHWUHDWVZLWKDĆUP
rooting in the local landscape.
YOUR WEEKEND SORTED
SATURDAY
Hit the heights with a classic hike up Slieve
Donard, or take it easy on gentle forest trails…
Slieve Donard, Northern Ireland’s highest
summit, makes for an irresistible objective,
and it’s walkable straight out of the door
from Newcastle. The popular but rewarding
out-and-back route up it via Glen River
(10km/6 miles, 866m/2841ft ascent, 4-6
hours), begins in Donard Park, although you
could start nearby on the beach if you want
WRPDNHLWDçVHDWRVXPPLWèWULS7KHĆUVW
section of the route climbs via a beautiful
woodland path, with the water of said river
snaking through sinuous cataracts in the
rock below. At the saddle between Donard
and Commedagh you meet the famous
Mourne Wall – a 22-mile drystone wall built
to enclose the catchment area of the Silent
9DOOH\5HVHUYRLUĆQLVKHGLQDIWHU
\HDUVRIEXLOGLQJåDQGMRLQLWIRUWKHĆQDO
steep push to the summit. Return the way
you came.
Prefer to take it a bit easier? Kilbroney
)RUHVW3DUNQHDU5RVWUHYRU DPLQXWH
drive from Newcastle) has an array of visitor-
friendly waymarked trails of various lengths,
including the gentle and family-friendly
&ORXJKPRUH7UDLO NPPLOHVKRXUV 
which takes you up to the giant glacial erratic
boulder of An Chloch Mhor (Irish for ‘big
Photo credits: Shutterstock
stone’, aptly enough) and provides beautiful
views over Carlingford Lough.
SUNDAY
Soak up one of the most spectacular views in
the Mournes with a strenuous walk up Slieve

Slieve Donard spectacularly
overlooks Newcastle's beach
Binnian, or enjoy some family fun in a beautiful
country park…
With the highest hill in the Mournes under
your belt, it’s time to look elsewhere. There’s
an ample array of options, but our pick for
the second day of your weekend would
be the third-highest hill in the Mournes,
Slieve Binnian (11km/7 miles, 616m/2021
feet, 4-5 hours). Climbing it from the Little
Carrick car park near Annalong (a 20 minute
drive from Newcastle), you join the line
of the Mourne Wall and follow it to the
spectacular array of tors on the mountain’s
745m (2444ft) summit, before soaking up
RQHRIWKHUDQJHèVĆQHVWYLHZVWKH6LOHQW
Valley reservoir hemmed in by plunging
crags and rocky mountaintops, a scene
reminiscent of some of the glacial troughs of
the Cairngorms.
If you’re looking for a more easy-going
day, or have kids in tow, Castlewellan Forest
Park is the place to be. The 5km (3 mile)
circular walk around the wooded shores of
Castlewellan Lake is a beautiful wander, but
for the little ones there’s also the ‘Animal
Wood’ play structure and the Peace Maze,
one of the world’s largest hedge mazes. Local
providers also offer mountain biking and
e-biking on the park’s 27km of biking trails.
OTHER GREAT WALKS
IN THE MOURNES
Slieve Bearnagh and Meelmore circuit (10km/
6 miles, 797m/2614ft ascent, 4-5 hours)
Starting from Trassey car park, this fantastic
round incorporates Slieve Bearnagh, one
of the Mournes’ most distinctive summits,
with an array of awesome rocky tors.
The terrain is rugged and the path ill-
GHĆQHGLQSODFHV
The Hen, Cock and Pigeon circuit (13km/
8 miles, 802m/2631ft ascent, 5-6 hours)
So-named for the animal-monickered
mountains you encounter along the way,
this walk starts in the Hen Mountain car
park on the western side of the Mournes,
taking in some wild terrain and spectacular
rock formations. Expect boggy ground and
tough terrain underfoot in places.
ACCOMMODATION
Double rooms at the boutique Avoca Hotel
(avocahotel.com), with gorgeous views
overlooking the sea and promenade and
lively bars below, start from £150 a night.
Briers Country House (thebriers.co.uk), a
mile or two outside offers doubles for about
£110. Hutt Hostel (hutthostel.com), close to
the Newcastle seafront, offers dorm beds
for £26 a night. Green Holiday Cottages
(greenholidaycottages.com) near Newry
provide self-catering cottages based around
a converted mill.
If you want to wild camp, ensure you do
so at a good distance from civilisation and
leave no trace of your visit – and be mindful
WKDWOLNHWKHUHVWRIWKH8.LWLVQRWRIĆFLDOO\
legal to do so in the Mournes.
FOOD AND DRINK
Newcastle is well-served by a range of
restaurants and cafés, but if you’re feeling
fancy, Brunel’s Restaurant is excellent
(brunelsrestaurant.co.uk). If you’re feeling
even fancier, and are a committed
foodie, local Michelin-starred chef Paul
Cunningham offers a unique ‘secret
dining’ experience, where you get whisked
off to a mystery location and served an
11-course tasting menu entirely made from
ingredients sourced within 15 miles – a sort
RIGRZQWRHDUWKĆQHGLQLQJLIVXFKDWKLQJ
exists (tinyurl.com/secretscoff). The Killowen
Distillery (killowendistillery.com) – Ireland’s
smallest distillery, perched in a beautiful
spot in the hills near Lisnacree – is well
worth a visit; expect music, heritage and
some surprisingly delicious poitín, Ireland’s
most ancient and head-spinning spirit.
GUIDES & ACTIVITY
PROVIDERS
• Walk The Mournes Run by local walk
leader Peter Rafferty, and offering various
walking tours (walkthemournes.com)
• Bike Mourne Provides mountain biking
and e-biking tours in the Mourne area,
including a popular ‘Trails and Ales’ trip
(bikemourne.com)
• Green Holiday Cottages As well as
accommodation, owners Mark and Jenny
also offer a drystone walling experience,
giving you the opportunity to build part
of a traditional Mourne-style granite
wall, accompanied by insights into the
region’s landscape, geology and history
(greenholidaycottages.com)
• Tracey’s Farmhouse Kitchen Combines
paddleboarding on the beautiful, birdlife-
rich Strangford Lough with lessons in
traditional baking techniques, including
soda bread (traceysfarmhousekitchen.com)
GUIDEBOOKS
• The Mourne and Cooley Mountains:
A Walking Guide, by Adrian Hendroff
(The Collins Press)
• The Mourne Mountains: The 30 Best Hikes,
by Andrew McCluggage
(Knife Edge Outdoor)
GETTING THERE
Newcastle is a one-hour drive from
Belfast, or an hour and a half by bus,
changing in Downpatrick. Flights to
Belfast are widely available from airports
in Britain, and ferries run from Birkenhead
in England and Cairnryan in Scotland.
Both Northern Ireland and the Republic
of Ireland are part of the common
travel area, meaning there are no travel
restrictions for British travellers.
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 21
The Allak is both very strong
and lightweight, making it
an excellent choice for any
adventure
The joy of the
Musician, adventurer and Hilleberg user Tilmann Graner has backpacked in many of the
world’s wildest places – but for him, it’s all about the experiences, not the accolades
Tilmann Graner has built his professional
career in the arts, working as a bassoonist
and photographer for Nordhausen
Theater/Loh Orchestra in Sondershausen,
Germany for 30 years. He has also lived a
life of dedicated adventure, with 50 years
of experience exploring around the globe.
Tilmann, rather than seeing these parts of
KLVOLIHDVVHSDUDWHĆQGVSDUDOOHOVEHWZHHQ
the two. “If you play a concert, you have to
be absolutely focused on each second.
,I\RXèUHFURVVLQJGLIĆFXOWPRXQWDLQVLWèV
not so [different],” he says.
Over years of practice, Tilmann has
developed his physical and mental strengths
for both his passions. He needs total
control over his breath in order to play
his woodwind instrument, and must have
steadfast focus for climbing and long-
22 The Great Outdoors July 2023
ADVERTISING PROMOTION
distance treks. “It’s important also to be
in good shape for bassoon playing and for
FOLPELQJPRXQWDLQVëKHUHćHFWV
In pursuit of adventure, Tilmann has
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to Greenland; three to Norway and Peru; two
to Nepal, India, Canada, the US and Bolivia;
as well as trips to Scotland, Iceland and
Turkey. “It’s important for the soul, for the
brain, to get fresh air and to see that there’s
something greater than you,” he says. He
prefers visiting remote, rarely accessed areas
far from worn-down trails. His approach to
these trips is usually relaxed, despite the fact
that he’s far out in the backcountry. “I don’t
OLNHWRKDYHDĆ[HGSODQZKHUH,èPIRUFHGWR
spend this night here and the next one there,”
he says. He enjoys adapting to changes in the
weather and landscapes as he goes.
Unknown and untouched
For some of his earlier treks, he relied on
documented information about routes and
conditions. But during later trips, Tilmann
and his partner, Susanne, with whom he
does most of his journeys, began to pave
their own way instead. “We did our own
thing, sooner or later,” he says. For some of
his trips to Greenland, Tilmann used only
satellite images for reference. “There were
crossings of mountain ranges, and I didn’t
know of anyone who had crossed them
before,” he says. “I didn’t know whether
it was possible, so I just tried it.”
Tilmann does not explore these places
WRVWDNHFODLPRQEHLQJçWKHĆUVWèWRGRVR
He does it simply because he loves to. He’s
been playing in the outdoors for a long time;
 “It’s important for
the soul, for the
brain, to get fresh
air and to see that
there’s something
greater than you.”
[above] Tilmann is an adventurer, musician, photographer, and
rarely (but sometimes) a model!
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July 2023 The Great Outdoors 23
 MOUNTAIN PORTRAIT

C A I R N T O U L
This mighty Cairngorms mountain may be forbidding – but its rare
wildlife and special atmosphere are truly unique, says Jim Perrin
“To many Cairntoul [sic] is the most imposing mountain of the of The Devil’s Point – at 1004m/3303ft a Munro itself and a very
Cairngorm range. Whereas Braeriach, Ben Muich Dhui, and, fine viewpoint – before re-focusing on the task in hand and
to a lesser extent, Cairngorm, have had their summits worn setting your sights on Cairn Toul.
But you’ll want first to soak up the atmosphere of this very
comparatively flat and insignificant by countless storms,
special place. Where else in Britain matches the spacious, barren
Cairntoul, as seen from Lairig Ghru pass, is a mountain in the grandeur of the Cairngorms plateau? You might think it lifeless,
real sense of the word, its summit rising sharp and distinct, and but don’t be deceived. Look closely and the likelihood is that,
presenting a true Alpine appearance...” at the right season, you’ll glimpse three mountain birds of
Seton Gordon, The Charm of the Hills outstanding ornithological interest – the snow bunting, the
ptarmigan and that strange little scurrying migratory character
WHENEVER I PASS the Linn of Dee, I always think with a of the northern heights, the dotterel. The latter’s numbers were
shudder of Menlove Edwards, the major Welsh rock-climbing sadly depleted early last century by the demand among fly
pioneer of the 1930s, swimming down when it was swollen fishermen for its feathers, which were highly valued for salmon
with snow-melt at Easter 1933. To reassure his companions, ties, so the guns were charged with birdshot and the “flutterin’
he agreed to tie on to a climbing rope so that they could drag gory pinions” (Burns) tumbled lifelessly down into the heather
him out if necessary. In the first pool of the descent after the – one blood sport begetting another, and the dotterel population
confluence with the Geldie Burn, still not recovered to nineteenth-
his head went through a loop of the century levels.
rope. Somehow he survived. I’d not “Where else... matches the spacious, From the saddle between The
recommend that you try to repeat Devil’s Point and Cairn Toul, head
the experience. Instead press on barren grandeur of the Cairngorms a few degrees west of north (you’ll
along the track to Derry Lodge
plateau? You might think it lifeless, need good compass work up here
in Glen Lui. The track continues if the mist, as is frequently the case,
as a well-marked moorland path but don’t be deceived.” is swirling around), and climb the
to reach the southern entrance convex slope that fines down to
of Lairig Ghru, and in doing so a slender ridge of Stob Coire
provides the most enjoyable approach to Cairn Toul, despite the an t-Saighdeir. The drop from here into Lairig Ghru is awe-
lengthy and potentially ankle-snapping boulder fields you’ll inspiring, and in winter conditions you’re well advised to watch
need to cross further along the way. out for huge cornices. Press on to the summit of Cairn Toul,
Don’t panic that the path takes you up the east bank of the where you’ll find a circular wall with the summit cairn within
Dee whilst your objective rises from the west bank. There’s a – welcome shelter if the wind’s grasping icy fingers are reaching
footbridge close to the watchers’ bothy of Corrour, near the down from the north. I’d recommend a rather longer descent
main salmon gathering pool in the mighty burn’s headwaters, than the one by which you approached. Head north-west along
to allay proper fears of Scottish river crossings. Once you’re the ridge to the Angel’s Peak (Sgor an Lochain Uaine), descend
across it, you’ll find yourself in the shadow, literally, of The Devil’s its south-east ridge to Loch nan Sturtrag, then contour round
Point (the Gaelic name is habitually earthier). You’ll probably the northern slope of Glen Geosachan by a path that curves
encounter hard snow here well into the summer months. round beneath The Devil’s Point to return you to Corrour.
A stream spills down the hillside in front of you, foaming white in Here’s Seton, with an enticement: “Very slowly the moon –
the shadow. You’ll need to keep it on your right-hand side as an though as yet hidden from us by the shadow of Cairn a’ Mhaim
immense ascent brings you to the saddle between The Devil’s – floods with light the corries of Cairntoul, and the spindrift is
Point and Cairn Toul. You may as well follow the contours round lit up with magical effect.”
to the left upon reaching the plateau and take in the summit cairn May you see it also thus!

FURTHER INFORMATION
Maps: OS Explorer OL57 ( Cairn Gorm & Aviemore); OS Landranger 36
(Grantown & Aviemore); OS Landranger 43 (Braemar & Blair Atholl)
Further reading: What Scottish writer worth the salt in his porridge hasn’t
written on the Cairngorms? Take your pick from Seton Gordon, WH Murray,
Tom Weir, Nan Shepherd, Janet Adam Smith, Cameron McNeish, Jim
ųƚĵĬåƼôƼŅƚűĬĬĀĹÚŞĬåĹƋƼĜĹƋĘåĜųޱčåŸƋŅŸƋĜųƋĘåŞŅƋŅüĵåĵŅųĜåŸţ
A selection edited by Hamish Brown of Seton Gordon’s writing includes
the romantic hill-classic essay, The Full of the Moon on Cairntoul - to my
ĵĜĹÚƋĘåĀĹåŸƋŸĜĹčĬåÚåŸÏųĜŞƋĜƴåŞĜåÏååƴåųƵųĜƋƋåűÆŅƚƋƋĘå±ĜųĹčŅųĵŸţ
It originally appeared in this hardily-bekilted old mountaineer-naturalist’s
collection The Charm of the HillsŠ±ŸŸåĬĬŎĿŎƖšţ
Transport: train to Inverness and bus to Braemar and Aviemore at either end
of the Lairig Ghru
Facilities: plenty of hotels across the price range, SYHA and independent
ĘŅŸƋåĬŸ±Ƌų±åĵ±ų±ĹÚeƴĜåĵŅųåţ‰ĘåŅųųŅƚųŅƋĘƼĜŸÏŅĹƴåĹĜåĹƋĬƼŞĬ±ÏåÚ
for an ascent to The Devil’s Point, but it’s small and popular, so don’t assume
ƼŅƚűĬĬĀĹڟޱÏåţa±ččĜå:ųƚåųűŸ±ƋFĹƴåųåƼĜŸĬŅĹččŅĹåرĬ±ŸØÆƚƋƼŅƚϱĹ
ųå±Ú±ÆŅƚƋĘåųĜűĬĬƋĘåÏĬ±ŸŸĜÏƋåƻƋŸţ
Stalking: You’re in the Mar Lodge estate here – rich people with high-
ƴåĬŅÏĜƋƼųĜā域Ƶ±ųĵĘåųåĜĹƋĘåŸĘŅŅƋĜĹčŸå±ŸŅĹţFüƼŅƚƵ±ĹƋƋŅŞĬ±ƼŸ±üåØ
ÏĘåÏĩƵĜƋĘƋĘååŸƋ±ƋåŅþÏåĜĹų±åĵ±ųţ

24 The Great Outdoors July 2023

 The Angel's Peak, Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochan Uaine
seen from Braeriach
Photo credit: Nature Picture Library / Alamy Stock Photo

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 25

 Great Gable from
Wasdale at sunset
Photo credit: Shutterstock

AND
WAINWRONGS
26 The Great Outdoors July 2023
 Lake District

What are the best (and worst) Lake District mountain routes? We asked Lakeland
experts to nominate their favourite fells and least loved hills, and the results are
intriguing. Let the heated debate ensue!
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 27
FROM BREATHTAKING BLENCATHRA
and hedonistic Helvellyn to miserable
Mungrisdale and boring Back o’ Skiddaw,
the Lake District is home to the 214
Wainwrights – the iconic tick-list of
mountains created by guidebook writer
Alfred Wainwright in the 1950s and 1960s.
Whilst many of his choices are
undeniably epic, some are arguably dull and
uninspiring. Is there a special Wainwright
you’d happily hike every week for the rest of
your days? Or do you despise one so much
you’ve vowed never to set foot on it ever
again? We’ve asked regular contributors
to The Great Outdoors to propose the very
best and worst of Lake District routes, their
Wainwrights and Wainwrongs if you like –
and their answers throw up a few surprises.
QFor maps of the best routes featured here,
check out thegreatoutdoorsmag.com

VIVIENNE CROW
LAKE DISTRICT
GUIDEBOOK
WRITER

BLENCATHRA
VIA HALL’S FELL
Distance:ƁţƗĩĵxĊţăĵĜĬåŸ
Ascent:ƁƆăĵxƗăljŀüƋ
Duration: ƑţăĘŅƚųŸ
Most thrill-seekers visiting Blencathra
scramble up the razor ridge of Sharp Edge,
but there is possibly a better way. Hall’s
Fell Ridge – or Narrow Edge as it is also On Hall’s Fell Ridge
known – is a succession of craggy humps
and rocky spines, forming a knobbly arête of
eye-watering splendour. Alfred Wainwright
GHVFULEHGLWDVêSRVLWLYHO\WKHĆQHVWZD\WR
any mountain top in the district,” with an
exhilarating, direct ascent scoring a “bulls-
eye by leading unerringly to the summit”.
Award-winning outdoor writer and
photographer Vivienne Crow is similarly
impressed. She tells TGO: “The sight of this
distinctive mountain’s imperious ridges
seduces all who enter the Lakes via the
A66. The Hall’s Fell approach is narrow and
rocky enough to provide a bit of scrambly
excitement, but nowhere near as terrifying
as Sharp Edge – it’s a must-do route.”
The most common approach to mighty
Blencathra begins at Scales and loops north-
Photo credit: Vivienne Crow

east to Mousthwaite Comb before ascending

Grade 1 Sharp Edge – a knife-edge spine of
bare rock that requires scrambling skills and
Looking north-east
a good head for heights – before descending
from the Old Man of
Hall’s Fell Ridge. But, if that sounds like too
Coniston’s summit
much technicality, an ascent of Hall’s Fell

28 The Great Outdoors July 2023


Photo credit: Alamy
Photo credit: James Forrest
and descent of Doddick Fell makes for an
equally epic horseshoe walk.
THE OLD MAN OF
CONISTON VIA THE
TOURIST PATH
Towering high above Coniston village,
The Old Man is a popular fell with high
tarns, lofty ridges and the historical
remnants of centuries of slate quarrying
and copper mining. Some adore it; others
see only an industry-scarred, overcrowded
summit. “Of course, if you don’t mind a
tiresome, stony trudge in the company of
GR]HQVRIRWKHUVWKHQ7KH2OG0DQèVĆQHë
says Vivienne Crow, who has written over
10 guidebooks on Lake District walks.
“It does, after all, enjoy far-reaching views
– as distant as Eryri (Snowdonia) on a good
day – and is pocked with almost as many
fascinating holes as The Beatles claimed for
ç%ODFNEXUQ/DQFDVKLUHèë
RONALD TURNBULL AWARD-WINNING AUTHOR
GREAT GABLE
VIA STY HEAD
& WHITE NAPES
Distance:ŏljţŀĩĵxƆţîĵĜĬåŸ
Ascent:ŏljîĊĵxƑăăăüƋ
Duration: ăĘŅƚųŸ
A humongous, rugged mass of rock and crags
and cliffs, Great Gable is unquestionably one
of the great Lakeland fells. It is a mountain
that captures the imagination and fuels
passions; a place that demands respect and
admiration, and gets it in spades. It is a war
memorial, the birthplace of rock climbing,
a scrambling paradise, a hillwalking rite of
passage, and so much more.
ê7KHFOXHLVLQWKHQDPHëVD\V5RQDOG
Turnbull, author of The Book of the Bivvy. “This
is the hill that has it all: airy scrambles, classic
rock climbs, scree gullies of gothic splendour,
piquant pinnacles and no really easy routes
up it at all. The best route in my opinion starts
in Borrowdale, heads to Styhead Tarn and
then takes the Screes Path and White Napes
DVFHQWWR:HVWPRUODQG&DLUQë
Such an approach brings you up close and
personal with the Great Napes on Gable’s
VRXWKHUQćDQNVDIUDFWXUHGEORFNDGHRI
rock with terrifying proportions. Jutting out
Lake District
The iconic Napes Needle
on Great Gable
of the mountain with unbridled power, it has
front, side and back walls, forming a dark,
craggy cathedral of brutal grandeur. It’s a
place of ornate spires of rock and gargoyle
outcrops, including the unapologetically
phallic Napes Needle and the much-
SKRWRJUDSKHG6SKLQ[5RFN
CAT BELLS VIA
SKELGILL BANK
Cue 100 strongly-worded
complaints to the editor. Cat Bells is
commonly cited as a family favourite,
a classic Lakeland outing for toddlers,
grandparents and everyone in between,
with breathtaking views across Derwent
Water and Borrowdale. But for some it’s
way, way too busy with Keswick tourists.
“The sweet little, dear little, over-trodden,
over-hyped, litter-sprinkled Instagram
hot spot that’s Cat Bells is my worst
route, heading up the north end after
some irresponsible parking above Hawse
(QGëVD\V5RQDOGê%XWWDNHWKHERDWWR
Brandelhow, divert over Maiden Moor,
and come down to Cat Bells just in time
for sunset, and of course it can be quite
DQLFHSODFHWREHë
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 29
Scrambling up Jack's
Rake on Pavey Ark
HANNA LINDON
REGULAR CONTRIBUTOR TO
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
PAVEY ARK
VIA JACK’S RAKE
Distance:ƆĩĵxƑţƁĵĜĬåŸ
Ascent:ƁljĊĵxƗƑljŀüƋ
Duration: ƑţăĘŅƚųŸ
“This is just one of many strong contenders
for my favourite Lake District peak, but
there’s plenty to make it stand out,” says
Hanna Lindon, a freelance travel writer
who has been contributing to The Great
Outdoors for over a decade. “The watery
and wonderful scramble up Stickle Ghyll,
the views over Stickle Tarn, the truly brilliant
scramble up Jack’s Rake and then a lofty
loop back over the Langdale Pikes including
the majestic summit of Harrison Stickle
(and Pike o’ Stickle and Loft Crag if you’re
feeling energetic) – it’s sterling stuff.”
30 The Great Outdoors July 2023
Arguably Jack’s Rake is the best way to
experience the craggily domed skyline of the
dramatic Langdale Pikes. The Grade 1 ascent
– a nerve-jangling scramble up the imposing
cliff face of Pavey Ark – is not for the faint-
hearted. It’s an accident hot spot that has
tragically claimed many lives, the rock is
RIWHQFUXPEO\DQGZHWDQGFRQĆGHQFH
over exposed terrain is essential.
Take it on, however, and you will be
rewarded with an adrenaline-inducing, high-
octane experience. You will scramble up a
rocky groove, which mercifully shelters you
from sheer precipices; haul yourself over
rocky steps and up narrow chimneys; tiptoe
along grassy terraces with dizzying views;
and, ultimately, stand atop Pavey Ark feeling
like a real adventurer.
SCAFELL PIKE VIA
HOLLOW STONES
Do you love it or hate it?
Photo credit: Hanna Lindon Photo credit (insert and lead): Shutterstock
England’s loftiest peak often polarises
opinion. For some it’s an iconic mountain
and a massive achievement to stand atop
the roof of England; for others it’s an
RYHUFURZGHGVDFULĆFLDOPRXQWDLQSODJXHG
by Mountain Rescue incidents, with a
treadmill of a slog up the Hollow Stones
path from Wasdale Head. Hanna Lindon
tells TGO she’s in the latter camp. “It might
be England’s highest, but Scafell Pike lacks
the interest and character that the peaks
around it have in spades. I once walked the
Three Peaks route up from Wasdale in a
PRWRUZD\RIIRRWWUDIĆFDQGUHJUHWWHGLW
all the way to the top.”
 Lake District
Harrison enjoys a bite to
eat on Helvellyn

HARRISON WARD
OUTDOOR COOK

HELVELLYN
Distance:ŏĊţăĩĵxŀĵĜĬåŸ
Ascent:ŏŏĊîĵxƑƁƆăüƋ
Duration: ƆţăĘŅƚųŸ
Voted Britain’s favourite walk in ITV’s
Britain’s Favourite Walks: Top 100, a
primetime TV show hosted by Julia
Bradbury, Helvellyn has always been
much-loved. Why? It’s probably because
Helvellyn is home to a horseshoe ridge of
legendary verticality. First comes Striding
Edge, a knife-edge arête with a tantalising
tightrope path edging along the crest,
before bagging the summit and completing
a high-level loop of Red Tarn via the rocky
apex of Swirral Edge.
Harrison Ward, an outdoor cook best-
Photo credit: Ryan Lomas

known for his @fellfoodie Instagram account,

favours a route up Helvellyn from the
Thirlmere side at Swirls before an up-and-
down loop of the famous edges. “This route is
like a stone staircase, offering a rapid ascent
and big views, and the exercise always blows
away the cobwebs”, he explains.
“But, on a more personal level, the
walk always holds a special place in my
heart, as it was the mountain that sparked
a transformation in my life, helping me
to overcome alcoholism and sparking a
new passion for the hills. After struggling
with depression and suicidal thoughts as
a teenager, I turned to alcohol as a young
adult to self-medicate and sedate my mind.
But when my life hit rock bottom, it was the
mountains that saved me.”

MUNGRISDALE
COMMON FROM
ANY ANGLE
Almost universally condemned
as drab and dreary, Mungrisdale Common
is disliked by almost everyone – even Old
Alf himself. Wainwright said Mungrisdale
“appeals only to sheep” and “precious holiday
hours should not be wasted here”. Harrison,
Photo credit: Dougie Cunningham/Leading Lines

whose debut book Cookout (Vertebrate

Publishing) is due for release in October,
is similarly critical. “It’s a bleak and barren
bogfest with very poor vistas compared to
other Wainwrights”, he says. “It feels like a
box-ticking exercise, a service station peak
to ‘bag’ en route to Blencathra when walking
from the east. Even Wainwright disliked it,
which makes you wonder why he included it
On Helvellyn's summit
LQWKHĆUVWSODFH"ë

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 31

Lake District

NICOLA HARDY
MUNROIST AND
PROLIFIC PEAK-
BAGGER

SHEFFIELD PIKE
VIA HERON PIKE
Distance:îţƗĩĵxăţŏĵĜĬåŸ
Ascent:ăŀîĵxŏŀƆŏüƋ
Duration: ƑĘŅƚųŸ
ê,ĆQGLWLPSRVVLEOHWRSLFNDQDEVROXWH
IDYRXULWH/DNH'LVWULFWPRXQWDLQëVD\V
1LFDQDPEDVVDGRUIRUWKHQDYLJDWLRQDSS

Photo credit: Nicola Hardy

NRPRRWZKRKDVFRPSOHWHGWZRURXQGV
RIWKH:DLQZULJKWVê7KHUHDUHVRPDQ\
WRFKRRVHIURPDQG,èGSUREDEO\JLYHD
GLIIHUHQWDQVZHUHYHU\RWKHUWLPHWKH
TXHVWLRQLVDVNHG,ORYH/RZ)HOO)OHHWZLWK 1LFRODRQ6KHIĆHOG3LNH
3LNH%ODFN&UDJ+D\VWDFNV<HZEDUURZ
DQGPDQ\PRUH%XWRQWKLVRFFDVLRQ
,èPJRLQJWRFKRRVH6KHIĆHOG3LNH
ê:K\"$VD6KHIĆHOGODVVWKHQDPH
6KHIĆHOG3LNHDOZD\VĆOOVPHZLWKQRVWDOJLD
DQGVHHPVDQDSWFKRLFH%XWLWèVQRWMXVW
WKHQDPH7KHYLHZIURP6KHIĆHOG3LNH
DFURVV8OOVZDWHULVXQULYDOOHGZLWKWKHODNH
VWUHWFKLQJRXWVXPSWXRXVO\åDOOJUDFHIXO
FXUYHVDQGEHDXWLIXOOLQHVåLQWRWKHGLVWDQFH
,RQFHZRNHXSDIWHUDQLJKWRIELYY\LQJRQ
6KHIĆHOG3LNHWRDFORXGLQYHUVLRQRYHUWKH
ODNH,WZDVRQHRIWKHPRVWPDJLFDOHWKHUHDO
H[SHULHQFHV,èYHHYHUKDGLQ/DNHODQGë
6KHIĆHOG3LNHLVFRPPRQO\KLNHGIURP
*OHQULGGLQJZLWKWKHXVXDOURXWHWLFNLQJ
RII*OHQULGGLQJ'RGGRQWKHZD\XSEHIRUH
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ULGJHYLD+HURQ3LNHDQG%ODFN&UDJ
ê,WèVZHOOZRUWKWKHHIIRUWå\RXZRQèW
UHJUHWLWëFRQFOXGHV1LF

HART SIDE VIA

GLENCOYNE HEAD
6RPHIHOOVDUHWKHKHDGOLQH
GHVWLQDWLRQRIDGD\èVZDONLQJ
RWKHUVDUHUHGXFHGWRDPHUHGHWRXURU
LQFRQVHTXHQWLDOEXPSHQURXWHWRWKHPDLQ
HYHQW+DUW6LGHLVSUREDEO\LQWKHODWWHU
FDPS,WLVUDUHO\FOLPEHGRQLWVRZQDQGIRU
VRPHKLNHUVDWOHDVWLVDIRUJHWWDEOHVXPPLW
ZLWKIHZUHGHHPLQJIHDWXUHVê,URQLFDOO\P\
Photo credit: Daniel Toal

IDYRXULWHDQGOHDVWIDYRXULWHIHOOVDUHFORVH
WRJHWKHUëVD\V1LFê+DUW6LGHLVDELWRIDQ
DZNZDUGIHOO,WKDVQHYHUEHHQWKHKLJKOLJKW
RIP\GD\DQG,èYHDOZD\VVHHQLWDVPRUHRI
DQDIWHUWKRXJKWWRH[WHQGDZDONWKDWZDV 6XQULVHRQ6KHIĆHOG3LNH
UDWKHUSHUIHFWZLWKRXWLWëb

32 The Great Outdoors July 2023


JAMES FORREST
RECORD-BREAKING
ADVENTURER
PILLAR VIA HIGH
LEVEL ROUTE &
SHAMROCK TRAVERSE
Distance:ŏƑţŀĩĵxîţƆĵĜĬåŸ
Ascent:ŏƑŀăĵxĊăƁăüƋ
Duration: ƁĘŅƚųŸ
This adventurous hike brings you within
touching distance of Pillar Rock, Lakeland’s
most handsome crag – a seemingly
impenetrable column that juts out of
Pillar’s north face like a craggy fortress.
It rises some 500ft from the hillside and is
separated from Pillar’s bulk by a plunging
Photo credit: James Forrest
chasm: Jordan Gap. This vertical cleft
separates Pillar and High Man, the highest
point of Pillar Rock, leaving the summit
tantalisingly out-of-reach for hikers.
Even if you can’t visit the top of Pillar
Rock, however, you can hike right up to the
base of the crag thanks to a secret climbers’
traverse path. From near Looking Stead,
the High Level Route is a rough trod over
rugged terrain via Robinson’s Cairn, whilst
the Shamrock Traverse is a tilted rake
IHDWXULQJDKHDUWLQPRXWKVKXIćHDFURVV
a slab of slanting rock with precipitous
drops on one side.
“This is an epic day out – exciting,
adventurous, invigorating, compelling and
hair-raising all in one,” says James Forrest,
an outdoor journalist known for his fast-
hiking adventures. “The views of Pillar Rock
are something to behold, and it’s a real
workout too – particularly if you start and
ĆQLVKLQ%XWWHUPHUHEDWWOLQJDWULRRISDVVHV
WZLFHXS6FDUWK*DSDQGRQFHXS%ODFN6DLO
Pass) as you go.”
Looking over the
PDJQLĆFHQW3LOODU5RFN
[below] The brooding
QRUWKHUQćDQNVRI3LOODU
Photo credit: Alamy
BRANSTREE
In the Far Eastern Fells, above
Haweswater, lies a duo of
notoriously peaty and boggy fells – Selside
3LNHDQG%UDQVWUHH$OIUHG:DLQZULJKW
saved his most scathing criticism for
%UDQVWUHHGHVFULELQJLWDVêGUHDU\ëZLWK
an ascent that “must disappoint all who
climb it”. James tells TGO he is similarly
XQLPSUHVVHGê:KLOVW,OLNHWKHYLHZV
across Haweswater from Selside Pike’s
2OG&RUSVH5RDGSDWK%UDQVWUHHKDV
always disappointed me. It’s a tad boring
and monotonous, and most of my memories
of it involve squelching through knee-deep
mud and peaty quagmires, my feet soaked
and my spirits low.”
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 33
7 TOP TIPS
FOR WAINWRIGHT-
BAGGING
1. Buy Wainwright’s guidebooks
7KHRULJLQDOVDUHWKHEHVW,QYHVWLQ
a seven-book set of Wainwright’s
guides and you can wonder at his
SRHWLFWXUQRISKUDVHVKDUSZLW
charming linescape drawings and
summit-identifying diagrams.
2. Learn about mountain safety
6WD\LQJVDIHZKLOVW:DLQZULJKW
bagging is priority number one.
,PSURYH\RXUPRXQWDLQNQRZKRZ
E\FRPSOHWLQJDKLOOVVNLOOVFRXUVH
OHDUQLQJĆUVWDLGDQGSUDFWLVLQJ\RXU
navigation. adventuresmart.uk
3. Get kitted out correctly
&RUUHFWJHDULVHVVHQWLDOLI\RXèUH
going to survive the unpredictable
&XPEULDQZHDWKHU<RXèOOQHHGFRPI\
DQGJULSS\IRRWZHDUZDUPOD\HUV
and – most importantly – reliable
waterproofs.
4. Be tech-savvy with your
route planning
3DSHUPDSVDUHHVVHQWLDOEXWPRGHUQ
technology is incredibly useful too.
LEFT OFF THE LIST:
10 ‘LOST’
WAINWRIGHTS
James Forrest rounds
XSVRPHRIWKHĆQH
Lake District hills that
the famous author
didn’t bestow with
‘Wainwright’ status
Most peak-bagging lists use a mathematical
DSSURDFKWRPRXQWDLQFODVVLĆFDWLRQ
meaning the inclusion (or exclusion) of
peaks is not up for debate; it’s simply a
matter of geographical fact. The Nuttalls
RI(QJODQGDQG:DOHVIRUH[DPSOHDUH
mountains over 2000ft with 50ft of
SURPLQHQFHRQDOOVLGHVZKLOVWLQ6FRWODQG
WKH0XQURVDUHRYHUIWWKH&RUEHWWV
are 2500-3000ft with 500ft of drop on all
VLGHVDQGWKH*UDKDPVDUHIW
with 150m of drop on all sides.
With his 214-strong list of Lake
'LVWULFWSHDNV$OIUHG:DLQZULJKWGLG
Photo credit: Daniel Toal

With navigation apps you can plot and
GRZQORDGURXWHVDQGSLQSRLQW\RXU
exact location whilst out in the hills.
5. Track your progress effectively
,WèVDORYHO\PRPHQWZKHQ\RXèYH
ĆQLVKHGDZDONDQGFDQWLFNRIIWKH
summits you’ve bagged. The free
British Hills app has user-friendly
FKHFNOLVWVRU\RXFDQEX\VFUDWFKRII
and tick-list wall maps.
6. Be an eco-friendly bagger
Wainwright-bagging exploits can
easily become a petrol-guzzling
HFRGLVDVWHU,QVWHDGZK\QRW
take a train to Windermere and
D6WDJHFRDFKEXVWR$PEOHVLGH
*UDVPHUH/DQJGDOHRU.HVZLFN"
7. Pack a tent and sleep wild
under the stars
Whether you’re bivvying on
a summit or camping next to
DWDUQZLOGFDPSLQJLVDPDJLFDO
experience – and a brilliant way
to tick off several summits in an
HIĆFLHQWPXOWLGD\URXWH
things differently. He shunned the raw
mathematical data and instead used a
SRHWLFSHUVRQDODSSURDFKWRVXPPLW
selection. No one knows exactly why he
included some mountains and not others
– and some of his choices can seem rather
odd. But it seems likely that (for the most
SDUW $:ZURWHDERXWWKHIHOOVKH
thought worthy of inclusion by virtue of
EHDXW\GUDPDDQGVLJQLĆFDQFHUHJDUGOHVV
of their height or prominence.
6XFKDVXEMHFWLYHDSSURDFKKRZHYHU
RSHQVWKHćRRGJDWHVWRGHEDWH,V$OIUHGèV
OLVWEH\RQGUHSURDFKRUGLGKHPDNHVRPH
SRRUFKRLFHVDQGHYHQRPLWRWKHUSHDNV
WKDWVKRXOGèYHPDGHWKHFXW"2IFRXUVH
the 214-long list will never change and we
ZRXOGQèWZDQWLWWREXWMXVWIRUIXQKHUHèV
our round-up of the 10 best Lake District
peaks Wainwright overlooked.
1. ROUGH CRAG, 628m
6WDURIWKH5LJJLQGDOH5RXQGZDONWKLV
SHDNåZKLFKLVLQFOXGHGLQWKH%LUNHWW
+HZLWWDQG1XWWDOOOLVWVRIKLOOVEXWQRWWKH
Wainwrights – features a spiny ridgeline
soaring above Haweswater. The ascent is
ZRQGHUIXOO\DLU\ćDQNHGE\SUHFLSLWRXV
drops south to Blea Water and north
WR5LJJLQGDOH
2. WHIN BEN, 413m
$UJXDEO\:KLQ%HQLVMXVWDEXPSDORQJ
DQRWKHUPRXQWDLQèVćDQNVEXWWKHVDPH
could be said for Wainwrights such as
6WRQH$UWKXU-XWWLQJRXWRI:KLWHVLGHèV
VRXWKHDVWHUQULGJH:KLQ%HQIHHOVOLNH
DIHLVW\PRXQWDLQLQPLQLDWXUHZLWKD
VFUDPEO\FOLPEDQGGHOLJKWIXO&UXPPRFN
Water views.
3. LADYSIDE PIKE, 703m
6WDQGLQJSURXGO\RYHUWKHYHUGDQWĆHOGVRI
WKH9DOHRI/RUWRQ/DG\VLGH3LNHLVOLWWOH
known and seldom climbed – and that’s
a travesty. There’s a lovely ascent via its
QRUWKHUQULGJHWRWKHFDLUQHGVXPPLWDQG
beyond is an exhilarating little scramble on
slabs of naked rock to Hopegill Head.

34 The Great Outdoors July 2023


4. ILL CRAG, 935m
Wainwright called Ill Crag “a graceful
peak”, but didn’t bestow it with Wainwright
status, classifying it instead as subsidiary
top of Scafell Pike – an odd choice,
SHUKDSVIRUDPRXQWDLQQRZFODVVLĆHGDV
WKHĆIWKKLJKHVW1XWWDOOLQDOORI(QJODQG
1HDUE\%URDG&UDJ P ZDVVLPLODUO\
VKXQQHGE\$OI
5. LITTLE STAND, 740m
Whilst hillwalkers are drawn to the north
by the excitement of Crinkle Crags and
%RZIHOO/LWWOH6WDQGRFFXSLHVSULPHUHDO
estate to the south, high above Wrynose
3DVVDQG&RFNOH\%HFN,WVVXPPLWåD
labyrinth of quaint tarns and knobbly knolls
åLVZHOOZRUWKH[SORULQJ
6. CASTLE ROCK, 339m
Part of the “boring Dodds” of Matterdale
Common, Watson’s Dodd is not a name that
sets hillwalkers’ pulses racing, but on its far
western slopes, towering above St John’s
in the Vale, is a dramatic, turreted crag that
will get you excited – the delightful Castle
5RFNRI7ULHUPDLQ
7. GATEGILL FELL, 851m
In a parallel universe, several of the tops
VXUURXQGLQJ%OHQFDWKUDå%OHDVH)HOO
6FDOHV)HOO'RGGLFN)HOO*DWHJLOO)HOOå
FRXOGKDYHDFKLHYHGIXOO:DLQZULJKWVWDWXV
The latter, perhaps, has the biggest
case for grievance, courtesy of its
exhausting but exhilarating southern
DU¬WHYLD.QRWW+DOORR
8. GREAT KNOTT, 696m
%\SDVVHGWRWKHVRXWKE\WKHPDLQ3LNHRè
%OLVFRWR&ULQNOH&UDJVSDWK*UHDW.QRWW
LVDIHOOGHVWLQHGWREHIRUHYHUQHJOHFWHG
%XWLWVJUDVV\VXPPLWLVZRUWK\RIDTXLFN
detour – perhaps for a drinks break or lunch
Lake District
Rough Crag and the
Riggindale Ridge protruding
above a sea of cloud at sunrise
– and offers expansive views across the
KHDGRIWKH/DQJGDOHYDOOH\
9. HONISTER CRAG
(BLACK STAR), 630m
-XWWLQJRXWRIWKHVLGHRI)OHHWZLWK3LNH
with a forbidding ferocity, Honister Crag
is a dark, shattered cliff face looming over
*DWHVJDUWKGDOH7KHFOLPEWRLWVVXPPLW
%ODFN6WDU LQYROYHVDQLQWULJXLQJUDWKHU
than pretty, hike through desolate land
VFDUUHGE\FHQWXULHVRIPLQLQJ
10. HIGH CRAGS, 529m
If you ticked off Hindscarth as an out-
DQGEDFNGXULQJWKHFODVVLF1HZODQGV
+RUVHVKRH\RXPLVVHGDWULFN+LQGVFDUWKèV
north-eastern spur is a superlative ridge
walk, featuring a lumpy-bumpy ascent over
DWULRRI%LUNHWWWRSV6FRSH(QG P 5HG
.QRWW P DQG+LJK&UDJV P 
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 35
THE

OF THE HILLS

After a bout of illness, David Lintern returns to the hills with an idyllic backpacking trip
around the remote Strathfarrar Munros – but with a new perspective on what true
‘open access’ means

Photography by David Lintern

Strathfarrar Four

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 37

Strathfarrar Four

TUCKED AWAY to the west of Inverness are a series of parallel

glens that will be well known to some readers, less so to others.
Mullardoch and Affric are the most famous, their long lochs
separated by miles of suspended wild space, summits strung
out along days’ worth of skyline ridge walking, none of it hugely
technical, pretty much all of it the embodiment of that slightly
old-fashioned phrase, ‘the freedom of the hills’. Airy ridges you
can really stride out on, lots of room to breathe – the good stuff.
I’ve visited both in the past (and written about them in these
pages), but not so the glen immediately to the north. Strathfarrar
and its four Munros remained out of reach. I kept reading about
access restrictions. Different rules depending on the time of year,
and a limit on the number of vehicles allowed in the glen. In the
winter, it seemed you had to be a member of Mountaineering
Scotland to get in at all. I’m sure I was overcomplicating things,
but it sounded like a faff.
And, to be honest, it rankled a little. By all accounts, Scotland
has some of the best access legislation in the world. The owners
of Strathfarrar, Glenavon and Braulen estates (and their agents,
Bidwells) weren’t playing fair. Last year, things became less free,
with no vehicle access in the winter allowed at all and walkers
restricted to just the Munros themselves. In context, access rights
in Scotland do seem to be under threat, post-pandemic, with lots
of questionable signage, blocked rights of way and cuts to local
government path and access work. Access in Scotland is rightly
celebrated, but it’s not a given.

ON TWO WHEELS
Still, all my wailing and gnashing of teeth isn’t going to get my
Munros done. My list is slowly shrinking, and this represented
one of the remaining, more obvious groups still to explore. A week
of high pressure over Scandinavia and the consequent clear, dry
spell in the Highlands coincided with a few days off for me and a
friend. Rather than bother with permits and rules, we shoehorned
our bikes into the back of Mick’s car and set off for Inchmore,
where the public road ends and the private one begins.
The sun split the sky as we floated down the first mile of
empty tarmac, birch woodland on our right, the river Farrar on
our left. A brief mechanical problem interrupted the early reverie,
but otherwise it was bucolic. The road rose and fell, meandering
alongside the river glinting diamonds in sunlight. Further in,
old-growth pine lined the water’s edge, whilst new growth draped
the hillsides above. It was so warm we stripped down to our
baselayers – in April, in Scotland! Only an occasional car or hydro
works van disturbed the peace. Surely all mountain journeys
should start like this. We joked that it felt like cycling into the past:
a halcyon, Kodachrome Highlands, the kind of place our
forebears toured on single-speed pushbikes back in the day. Now
and then, we saw goats – big, hairy, Satan-horned, cloven-hoofed
beasts, animals domesticated early on as part of subsistence
farming and the clan system and then left to become feral after the
Clearances. Perhaps we could keep cycling backwards in time,
seeing ever more outlandish creatures. Elk? Wolves? Mammoths?
Sabre toothed tigers…?
As we rode farther still, I began to wonder if some of my
prejudices around access in Strathfarrar were misguided. I’d spent
the previous day working as photographer with an organisation
[previous spread@0LFNDGRSWVKLVEHVWçRXWGRRULQćXHQFHUèSRVH
(purely by accident!) [above] Climbing towards camp under Sgurr na
Ruaidhe [right] Camp under Sgurr na Ruaidhe [next spread] First light
the following morning
called Able to Adventure, close to home in the Cairngorms
National Park. Part of their offer is the provision of adapted bikes
and wheelchairs, enabling those with physical challenges to enjoy
the kind of outdoors freedom able-bodied people like myself can
sometimes take for granted. This well-kept road almost free of
traffic would be ideal for some of their groups, I thought.
I suppose I like to think of myself as environmentally educated,
but on reflection I’d been too quick to conflate access with
motorised transport. Cars don’t equal access. It’s green space and
public transport that improve our shared civic life, infrastructure
that is held in common. Spending just a little time with adapted
bike users had shifted my perspective. A relatively car-free glen
like Strathfarrar creates a lovely atmosphere for all… and an
opportunity for people with different physical needs to improve
their access to nature. Almost certainly, we should aim for more
of it, not less. With the right infrastructure, of course!
ON TWO FEET
We were enjoying that bucolic atmosphere so much we managed
to overshoot the start of the hill path, but with our mishap
corrected and the bikes tucked behind a shieling wall, our slow
walk into the hills began. And, as agreed by both of us, it was

38 The Great Outdoors July 2023

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 39
 ‘Site yourself in the hills that you’ve
visited, in the memories you’ve made,
and you are home again.’
deliberately slow. Almost immediately, we stopped for a late lunch
before climbing above a ravine harbouring birch woodland.
The sun still blazed, but as we gently gained height, reached
the moor and then the first crags under the summit of Sgurr na
Ruaidhe, a cold easterly reminded us it was still early in the season.
Aside from a few overnighters, this was my first ‘proper’
backpack in a few months. A viral infection over the winter really
took its toll. It’s taking concerted effort to recover from what was
a bizarre and debilitating condition, but with attention to diet,
exercise and physiotherapy, the fatigue, nerve damage and joint
pain are slowly receding. Mick had his own physicals to contend
with, so our mission this time was to proceed with caution, enjoy
40 The Great Outdoors July 2023
the opportunity to chat nonsense and soak up all that vitamin D
we’d been missing.
My recent experience brought me up short and prompted much
ruminating about access in the broadest sense; to what, for whom,
and how. We’re becoming more open about mental health – it
feeds into a wider societal acknowledgement, post-pandemic,
of how important access to nature is to ‘wellbeing’ – but we seem
far less willing to admit to physical frailty through illness or age.
Initiatives like Able to Adventure aim to change the story, but the
western consumerist version of the outdoors is largely about the
young, affluent and able-bodied getting stoked or psyched living
their best lives. Health is wealth. There seems to be no middle

ground – we’re either upwardly mobile or invisible. In contrast
(just one example), Swedish outdoor ads feature models from
infants to the elderly.
Even how we talk about the nature-wellbeing connection can
verge on reductive psychobabble. During that bout of illness, I
became sharply aware of just how much I lean on physical access
to nature for my mental health. My personal redemption narrative
runs as follows: the depression that plagued my youth is no longer
overwhelming. The outdoors is more than a ‘coping strategy’, it’s a
way of life that has enabled me, over time, to change my outlook.
But perhaps this is only partly true. Unsurprisingly, my lowest
point physically was also my lowest mentally for years, simply
Strathfarrar Four
because I couldn’t get out. Oversimplifying the relationship
between mental and physical health had quite literally added insult
to injury. Certainly, access is more complex than ‘live, laugh, love’
or #outdoors. It’s not to be taken for granted.
IN TWO TENTS
That first night out was a wonderful reminder of the simple,
practical pleasures of backpacking, and the gentle emotional
benefits too. I was half afraid I’d forgotten how it all worked, but as
we reached the 800 metre mark the contours eased off, a suitable
pitch presented itself and it all slipped into place. Mick and I
retreated into our shelters, nattering away at a distance whilst
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 41
Strathfarrar Four

THE STRATHFARRAR FOUR

Duration: ŏěƗÚ±ƼŸ
%ĜŸƋ±ĹÏå׉ĘåÏĜųÏƚĬ±ųĘĜĬĬƵ±ĬĩüųŅĵƋĘåĜĹüŅųĵ±Ĭϱų
ޱųĩ±ƋaĘƚĬĬĜå:ųååĹŸØģƚŸƋޱŸƋ%å±ĹĜåŞŅƵåųŸƋ±ƋĜŅĹØĜŸ
ƗƑţŀĩĵxŏĊţŀĵĜĬåŸţ‰±ĩåƋĘåƵåĬĬěĩåŞƋŸĜĹčĬåƋų±ÏĩųŅ±Ú
üųŅĵFĹÏĘĵŅųåϱųޱųĩرųŅƚĹÚŏƗĩĵxƁĵĜĬåŸØå±ÏĘƵ±Ƽţ
eÆĜĩåĜŸĘĜčĘĬƼųåÏŅĵĵåĹÚåÚüŅųƋĘĜŸŸåÏƋĜŅĹţ
eŸÏåĹƋ×ŏƆƁƗĵxăĊîăüƋ

ACCESS AT STRATHFARRAR Mountaineering Scotland had

Access for walkers and cyclists
(and powered transport for
disabled users) is allowed
day and night (providing one
can negotiate the walkers’
gate) but for motor transport,
there’s effectively a summer
permit system.
a special dispensation under
the permit system to access
the glen using vehicles. This
arrangement has been recently
rescinded and there currently cooking and eating before emerging as the wind dropped for the
is no winter vehicular access last of the light. We played that favourite hillside game for a while:
in the glen, whilst foot and site yourself in the hills that you’ve visited, in the memories you’ve
pedal-powered access is made, and you are home again. There was the Skye Cuillin in the
©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19

Summer Between April and
October, up to 25 vehicles are
allowed in during daylight hours.
Access is controlled by the
gatekeeper at Inchmore, where
there is a car park, but you are
not permitted to park in the
glen overnight. Opening hours
vary – check the Mountaineering
Scotland webpage for updates:
mountaineering.scot/access/
special-arrangements/strathfarrar
Winter In the past, members of
restricted to the four Munros distance, with the haar rising over the sea in front of it, catching
only. Deer disturbance has been the dying embers of the sun. Several of Affric’s tops were identified
given as the reason. and reminisced about. And wasn’t that Ben Nevis, far to the south?
The morning was even better. We awoke to a slow boiling
Q Able to Adventure is an
inversion. By 8.30am we were creeping steadily upwards again
all-abilities outdoor activity
provider. It advises national
towards the first, blunt summit as the blanket of cloud burnt off
bodies on how to make the gradually beneath our feet. Our relaxed pace continued. It’s a
outdoors more inclusive for compact round, and with no car parked at the foot of the hill and
those with physical challenge. no gate to reach before glen-chucking-out-time, we had no need to
It has an adapted bike hub at rush. We descended to the next bealach for a second breakfast and
Badaguish outdoor centre in the a first sit down, putting the world to rights, catching up as friends
Cairngorms, from which it runs do on a walk. We ambled up the southern spur of Carn na Gobhar
courses and provides hires. to its boulder-strewn top, before stopping again for another snack
able2adventure.co.uk and to bask in the sun, tucked out of the wind that was now

42 The Great Outdoors July 2023


blowing more briskly and chilly from the north. The ridge got
more interesting from there on in, a variety pack of chiselled
corries, easy going plateaus and aesthetic climbs whose cliff edges
were outlined by the last of the snow.
The views from the high point of Sgurr a’ Choire Ghlas are
probably the hilltop highlight. You even get to choose which cairn
to enjoy them from – there are two, plus a trig point. The sun shone
on, the air unfeasibly dry for Scotland. We paused again on the
final Munro (Sgurr Fhuar-thuill), dozing with our socks off and
our packs as pillows. It was only 2pm, and I was starting to wonder
if we’d made a mountain out of a molehill. Others caught up with
us, travelling in both directions, some clearly in a hurry to get
across and down before the gate shut. I reconsidered. Munro-
bagging on the clock didn’t really appeal.
In some ways, the best of this tightly knit group is saved until
last. The descent from the last top, going anticlockwise, is via an
ingenious garron (pony) path from pretty much 1000m. It tightly
hugs the upper tier of the corrie auditorium before dropping under
[left] The garron path descent [above] Soft spring sunshine by the
lochside walk out [below] The dramatic corrie of Sgurr Fhuar-thuill
a massive fin of rock, joining a series of plunge pool waterfalls and
then a lochside path. Lower still, a much grander waterfall,
remnant woodland and a wider track converge. Presumably,
garron ponies would have met a cart here. Looking up from below,
you could barely see the line we’d taken. I never cease to marvel at
the ingenuity of these paths and their creators.
Our second night was spent in the glen, football-pitch-perfect
next to the river, a little way from the road. The odd estate vehicle
trundled past in the gloaming, but we weren’t disturbed. We
passed a large deer ranch, an increasingly common sight in the
Highlands. The fact that intensive farming of a once wild animal
is happening here may be justification enough in some eyes for
the winter access restrictions. It’s also the reason all the woodland
is fenced in unnaturally. There’s plenty of opportunity here, though
– for more outdoor freedom, better-quality access for a wider mix
of people – not just plain constraint. I just wish I’d visited sooner
and not been put off by confusing regulations. It had been a
thought-provoking trip.
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 43
Epic Wales journey
In 2021, our new content editor Will Renwick set out on a quest
to climb all 189 mountains in his Welsh homeland in one solo, self-
supported trip. Dubbed Taith Galed – A Hard Journey, so it proved...
PHOTOGRAPHY: WILL RENWICK (UNLESS STATED OTHERWISE)
THE DAY HAD BEEN HARD, the
hardest of the two weeks so far. From
7am until 8pm I spent the entire time
with my chin tucked into my chest
and my eyes fixed on the ground whilst
the wind blasted rain straight at me.
The section through Cwmorthin, the
abandoned slate quarry, had been
particularly difficult, with all the paths
through the slate tips drowned in cascading
white water and low cloud making me
work hard to locate the 13 mountains of
the Moelwynion that I needed to climb
throughout the course of the day.
Still, I’d made it to Beddgelert, and that
tough day was behind me. I was about to
enjoy my first hotel so far on my attempt
to climb all 189 of Wales’ mountains in
one trip. It would be the chance for my
first bath since setting off on foot from
the South Wales coast on a sunny day in
mid-September. I was ‘looking forward’
to giving my blisters and scratches some
much needed TLC.
With the tub filling, a glass of whisky
over my left shoulder and a Guinness on
my right, I was feeling very content as I
surveyed my day’s progress on the app
I had been navigating with. But then I
noticed it: a hilltop called Moel Penamnen,
a hilltop I’d missed by about a kilometre.
A hilltop that was 35 kilometres and a
whole mountain range away from the
bathtub in which I was now sitting,
cursing my foolishness.
NUTS FOR THE NUTTALLS
I’m not sure what the polar opposite phrase
for ‘as the crow flies’ is; but if I knew, I’d use
it to describe the route between Swansea
and Conwy that Matthew Myerscough
44 The Great Outdoors July 2023
and Mike Murray sent to me. With the
help of the one other person to have linked
up all of Wales’ mountains in one go – a
woman called Ann Bowker – they had
created an 800km route that seemed to be
the most logical way to navigate between
“All 189
of the country’s
mountains.
30,000m
of ascent, three
coastlines and
nine counties”
all 189 of the country’s mountains – that’s
‘mountains’ using the Nuttall definition.
All in all, it involved 30,000m of up,
touched three coastlines and crossed nine
counties. For someone like me, who for
the last 13 years has been attempting to
explore every inch of my home country via
its long-distance trails, it was an irresistible
prospect. And so, the planning began…
The opening stage from Swansea and
into the mountains started well for me.
Too well, actually. In classic style, I set
out too quickly. By the end of my third
day on the trail, having run through the
South Wales Valleys and over the Black
Mountain, Pen y Fan and the central part
of Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons),
I was ready to quit. My ankle had flared up,
which I then strapped up. This led to an
angry blister, which inevitably opened up.
Others quickly followed.
I was suddenly overwhelmed by the
sheer scale of the task ahead. To my mind,
sitting in my tent on the moorland of
Mynydd Llangynidr, dousing my wounds
in whisky, it was inconceivable that I could
reach Conwy. I said as much on the phone
to my partner Hannah, who replied with
some simple advice: don’t think about the
end and everything in-between. Just take
things one day at a time.
After that phone call, I aimed for
Pumlumon in the Cambrians as a point
from which I might not too disgracefully
retire having made a decent enough crack
at things, and Hannah’s advice carried me
all the way to its 752-metre summit. I’d
reached the summit cairn at golden hour
to find the whole of Wales illuminated for
me. Behind, I could see just about every
mountain I’d spent the last week and a half
climbing, whilst ahead there was Cadair
Idris, the Rhinogydd and then beyond
them Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) itself. Having
a glimpse of the finish line for the first time,
I allowed myself to fantasise: perhaps I did
stand a chance of completing the challenge.
THE CHALLENGES ADD UP
By the time I had entered Eryri
(Snowdonia), it was my shelter that had
begun to cause problems. I’d expected
condensation, but there’s only so much
a small towel can deal with. On some
mornings, I’m sure I emerged wetter
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 45
Epic Wales journey

46 The Great Outdoors July 2023


[pevious spread] Will in the Black Mountains
[above] Yr Wyddfa, Snowdon, marked the highest
point on Will's journey [left] Descending to Bwlch
Llyn Bach from the summit of Cadair Idris [below]
Batchelor’s Pasta ’n’ Sauce: a real staple [above right
top] In search of Rhobell Fawr [above right] Into the
Glyderau, where eleven Nuttalls lie
than when I climbed inside the tent the
evening before.
It was also a high-level and often
remote route and with that came a lack of
opportunities to resupply. I survived on
instant mash, couscous and Super Noodles
with a good pub meal when I could find
one, but the latter were in shorter supply
than I’d have liked. As a result of the
calorie deficit my hips and elbows became
noticeably pointier, shadows started to
appear around my cheeks and my mind
was constantly occupied by thoughts of
burgers and Coca Cola.
Navigation became a lot trickier too.
In Bannau Brycheiniog and the Cambrian
Mountains, most of the summits were
neatly lined up, one after the next; but
things became a little more slap-dash
in Snowdonia. I had to dart off track in
seemingly random directions to reach
outlying summits, sometimes leaving
my pack to retrieve later.
South-east of Eryri, the Berwyns
presented some of the most difficult
country that I had come across so far.
Small, almost unidentifiable summits
were scattered throughout an endless,
pathless, heather-strewn moorland. The
Arenigs followed soon after, and the going
wasn’t much easier here either, though
it’s a stretch I’ll remember for the summit
of Moel Llyfnant, one of the standout
mountains for me from this trip. It was
very different to any Welsh hill I had come
across before. Stood on its summit, with
the light from the setting sun reflecting off
the scree slope on its southern flank and
vibrant green meadowland in the valley
below, it almost passed for the Dolomites.
As I continued into October the days
became frustratingly short, and I’d often
continue well past sunset in order to keep
to my schedule. It was at this point, going
into the heart of Snowdonia, that the scales
tipped and my discomfort during the
day was no longer balanced with comfort
overnight. I regretted opting for a summer
sleeping bag as its down loft diminished
in tandem with my drive to continue.
DIFFICULT DECISIONS
After noticing that I’d missed out that
single peak near Blaenau Ffestiniog,
probably distracted by the bad weather
and the prospect of a hot meal, the rest
of my evening was spent wracked in
deliberation. Should I forget about Moel
Penamnen, should I backtrack, or perhaps
re-route? I hadn’t completely ruled out
quitting altogether…
In the end, I settled on a complete
re-route for the days ahead. Due to the
weather forecast, that meant tackling the
most technically challenging terrain of
the challenge the very next day. The Yr
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 47
Epic Wales journey

BATTLE OF
THE WILL:
THE JOURNEY
IN NUMBERS
Total distance×ƁƆljĩĵxĊƁƗĵĜĬåŸ
Total ascent:ƑljØljƗƗĵxŀîØăljljüƋ
Duration:ƗƑÚ±ƼŸ
Start:„Ƶ±ĹŸå±kÆŸåųƴ±ƋŅųƼ
Finish:ŅĹƵƼ±ŸƋĬå

Will’s criterion for a ‘mountain’ on this trip

ZDVEDVHGRQWKH1XWWDOOGHĆQLWLRQåWKDWèV
any peak over 2000 feet with a prominence
above15 metres. A web search on ‘How many
Nuttalls are there in Wales?’ will produce
WKUHHFRQćLFWLQJUHVXOWVEXWWKHWZRSHRSOH
who walked the route before him had 190
on their list. Will settled for the 189 listed
on a website called Go4awalkDIDQWDVWLF
UHVRXUFHIRU1XWWDOOEDJJHUVWKRXJKKH
DOVRPDGHVXUHWRFOLPEVRPHRWKHUVMXVWLQ
FDVHåIRUH[DPSOHWKHWZRFDLUQVDORQJWKH
VRXWKVWUHWFKLQJULGJHIURP+D\%OXIILQWKH
%ODFN0RXQWDLQV

[below@7KH*O\GHUDXPRXQWDLQUDQJHZDVIRUPHGDURXQGPLOOLRQ\HDUVDJR
[right] Camped on Cribin Fawr: the calm before a storm

the first morning of the final few, very

Wyddfa Horseshoe and all the outlying
mountains within Yr Wyddfa’s massif
included 10 tops and around 35 kilometres.
I would have liked more time to mentally
prepare myself, but I had to take advantage
of the slim good weather window. I didn’t
get much sleep that night, and my bathside
drinks were left unfinished.
Calm, almost warm weather, some
of the finest views in all of Wales, the
knee-wobbling thrill of the traverses
along the two ridges of Crib Goch and
Y Lliwedd, and the novelty of sharing
the trails with other people for a change –
all this combined to make it a joy-restoring
day. Reaching the summit of Yr Wyddfa
felt momentous. There, on Wales’ highest
summit, was the first time I could see Tal y
Fan, the last mountain before my end point
at Conwy. It looked so near and felt so near,
but the reality, however, was that there was
still a long way to go.
I’d not experienced the sensation of
being blown off my feet before. Fortunately,
I wasn’t on the knife edge of Crib Goch, as
originally scheduled, but on a grassy slope
on Mynydd Mawr and so I was able to
regain my footing and continue. It was
rough days of the trip. I still had the Nantlle
Ridge ahead of me, then Tryfan and the
rest of the Glyderau, as well as the small
matter of that mountain I’d missed out –
Moel Penamnen.
I can’t really tell you much about the
scenic value of Moel Penamnen. All I know
is that I stomped through mist-shrouded
bog, then stomped uphill through mist-
shrouded bog, then I was standing in
mist-shrouded bog on what my app told
me was the 628-metre summit. I’d taken a
20km southbound diversion through wind
and rain to reach it and once there, I had
to retrace my steps back to where I started,
albeit with a slight diversion to climb Moel
Siabod. ‘Slight diversion’ might sound
understated, but by this stage, I was dealing
with steep mountain ascents with a certain
degree of… was it nonchalance, or blind
determination?
THE FINAL HURDLE
The Carneddau, home to five of the 10

48 The Great Outdoors July 2023

highest mountains in Wales, ensured that
the whole ridiculous affair had a fitting
final act. To get to Conwy Castle at 11am,
the time I had foolishly told friends I’d be
aiming for, I was left with a lot of work to
do. The 1000-metre mountains in wind and
rain were hard enough, but it was the sheer
number of outlying Nuttalls I needed to
visit that made this section so exhausting.
At 10pm, I climbed into my shelter, pitched
just below the 926-metre top of Carnedd
Gwenllian and, with the tent fabric
pressing into the back of my head, sat there
in my waterproofs watching the water
vapour rising off them as I summoned
the energy to peel off my clothes. If this
day had come at any other point on this
trip, I think I really would have given up.
Fortunately, the end was so very close.
I undertook this huge journey partly
because I get a kick out of exploring my
home country, discovering and being
surprised by its nooks and crannies, and
so the prospect of the challenge was too
enticing for me to resist. I’m not someone
who enjoys suffering or likes to see just
how far I can push my limits, but this trip
did, at many points, feel like an endurance
test. That’s not to say I hadn’t expected it to
be hard, but that wishful thinking got the
better of me. I certainly set out hoping for it
to be a bit jollier, weather-wise.
I also wanted to raise funds for Mind
Over Mountains, a charity that uses time
out in the British hills to support people
going through difficult periods in their
lives. With my finish point in sight, I
checked my fundraising total. I’d just
reached £10,000, far above what I thought
I might manage. It’s a cliché, but the
donations from so many friends and total
strangers along the way really had spurred
me on. And, remarkably, that total would
continue to rise substantially even after my
journey had ended.
Reaching the top of that last mountain,
Tal y Fan, I was hit by a huge sense of relief
and pride, quite literally as I my hand
landed on the trig point. In an instant, the
previous 23 days felt utterly worthwhile.
TOP TIPS FROM THE
RELUCTANT MASOCHIST
Many of the smaller mountains were
harder to climb than the bigger ones,
Arenig Fach being a good example.
• Avoid carrying two identical power packs
and not labelling them!
• Letting your lighter rattle around in your
pot is not only annoying, but can also
lead to a broken lighter and cold noodles
for dinner.
• Don’t be afraid to approach others for
help. Matthew and Mike were happy to
oblige when asked for their Welsh 2000s
*3;ĆOHV
• Will tried to avoid setting daily targets
before the trip as a way of keeping
relaxed about the endeavour. He let his
body dictate daily distances and assessed
his progress and schedule each evening.
Taith GaledWKHĆOPWKDWGRFXPHQWV:LOOèV
Hard Journey, is set for public release soon.
<RXèOOĆQGLWDWyoutube.com/@willrenwick
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 49
 Picos de Europa

Carey Davies gets taught some important lessons in Spain’s

awesome Picos de Europa, a world of soaring limestone
pinnacles, abundant wildlife and distinctive culture
Photography: Carey Davies

“IF I ATTEMPT THAT I THINK I COULD DIE,” said my friend, mountains rising from lush green skirts of forest and pasture,
looking at what lay ahead of us. It didn’t feel like an exaggeration. often wreathed in tendrils of mist and cloud, and bisected by
The safety of the valley floor was tantalisingly close, just a hundred some of the most spectacular valleys and canyons in Europe
or so metres below, but to get there we would have to negotiate a (including the jaw-dropping Cares Gorge). They shoot up from
final ordeal which at that moment looked impossible: a narrow the lush temperature landscape of ‘Green Spain’ – the country’s
traverse whittled out of the face of a sheer limestone cliff, with an north coast region – and are home to Iberian wolves, golden
unambiguously lethal drop below. eagles and even the odd passing Cantabrian brown bear. I had
The ‘path’ was protected by cables, and in normal circumstances made a previous visit in 2017 and memories of it remained vivid:
would have been no problem for either of us. But several hours ago, limestone pinnacles floating above cloud inversions; secret
near the start of a long and wickedly steep descent, my friend’s knee hanging meadows filled with butterflies; hospitable mountain
had started hurting. We pushed on; but after a succession of plunging villages with their traditions still intact.
scree slopes, wildly exposed balcony The Picos are well known in the
paths and difficult downscrambles
things became agonising for him, and
‘...an unreal city climbing world outside Spain, thanks to
the presence of landmarks like the iconic
the going had become slow, fraught Picu Urrielu / Naranjo de Bulnes, a vast
and unsteady as the pain ramped up. of sky-spearing limestone tower covered in an array of
We had made it down to a gentle ‘big wall’ routes (that’s the one you see
stretch of woods and pasture, and
even though I remembered this final
white mountains at the top of the results when you google
the Picos). But this is a mountain range
cabled section from a previous visit,
my memory had tamed it somehow,
rising from lush that seems to be largely overlooked by
hikers and trekkers in the rest of Europe;
made it seem less severe. We had both
started to relax, thinking the worst green skirts of although the walking possibilities here
are as eye-popping as anything you
was over. But as soon as I turned a find in the Pyrenees and much of the
corner and looked at this traversing forest and pasture’ Alps, on both my visits here, most of the
trail with fresh eyes, my spirits non-climbers I’ve met outside the tourist
plummeted. It was a cruel sting in the tail. honeypots have been Spanish.
It seemed we might have to spend the night here. I looked at the Perhaps, to be fair, that might be something to do with the
steep and heavily vegetated ground around us. It didn’t seem like geography. At first glance, you’d be forgiven for assuming this world
an attractive prospect, especially with the prospect of comfy beds of soaring rock citadels was solely a climbers’ kingdom; and it’s fair
so close; but we couldn’t push ahead and risk my friend losing his to say that even the ‘trekking’ trails of the region can pack a serious
footing. But even after a night of ‘rest’, I wasn’t sure he would be punch. But that’s all part of the fun, right?
up to the traverse tomorrow. Going back was unthinkable, but Well, yes – if you don’t bite off more than you can chew, that is.
pushing ahead seemed impossible. With my stomach knotted
with anxiety, I tried to weigh up the options. RISING ABOVE
We had set out 48 hours earlier from Sotres, the highest village
DEITY’S DREAM in the region of Asturias, reached by a drive through a tortuous
The Picos de Europa (Picos for short) look like something road up the precipitous gorge of the Rio Duje. Like Picos
conjured in a deity’s dream:; an unreal city of sky-spearing white settlements often do, it seemed somewhat miraculous in its

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 51

Picos de Europa

height and remoteness; but despite their vertiginous geography,

these mountains have a long history of ‘transhumance’ – farming
where livestock is moved between summer and winter pastures.
As a result, the Picos are still dotted with centuries-old villages,
constructions and high summer vegas (pastures), all of which can
often be found perching in improbable locations – clinging to
mountainsides or nestling in high hanging valleys.
This tradition, although in decline – and sometimes at odds with
the region’s toothier wildlife – is part of the landscape’s character and
gives an insight into ways of life which have altogether disappeared in
other mountainous regions of Europe. That farming heritage is also
closely intertwined with cheesemaking, and milks from cows, goats
and sheep are still blended together into some fantastic offerings –
like queso de Cabrales, a fiery blue cheese fermented in secret caves
dotted through the Asturian side of the Picos, or queso de gamoneu,
a slightly milder product that comes in two forms, one made in the
high passes and the other in the valleys, reflecting the rural rhythms
of the landscape.
On the face of it, the weather seemed unpromising as we set off.
The valley was sealed in by cloud, but I hoped that our first day might
bring us out into sunlight; on my last visit here, cloud inversions were
a daily occurrence.
We dipped down into the semi-abandoned village of Invernales
del Texu, before climbing back up to join the popular path up to
Vega de Urrielu. As we plodded upwards in the clag, soundtracked
by the clanking of cowbells from unseen animals, I began to worry
that maybe this grey purgatory was our lot for the day. But eventually,
at around the 1500 metre mark, the world around us started to
gradually brighten, and a cleft in the fog suddenly appeared to reveal
blue sky and sunlit white mountains above us, like some heavenly
vision. Within minutes we had transcended the cold, grey murk
and were staring dumbfounded at the jagged mountain architecture
around us, with an ocean of cloud stretching away below us towards
the Cantabrian Sea, and the bright sun warm on our faces.

AWESOME
We pitched our tents at Vega de Urrielu, outside the refuge of

[previous page] Looking across to Friero from the precipitous descent from
Collado Jermoso [below] The cable-assisted sramble up to Horcados Rojos
[right] Refugio Veda de Urrielu dwarfed by the huge tower of Picu Urrielu

52 The Great Outdoors July 2023

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 53
‘The Picos are still dotted with centuries-
old villages and constructions, perching
in improbable locations – clinging
to mountainsides or nestling
in high hanging valleys.’

54 The Great Outdoors July 2023

 Picos de Europa

[left] The Collado Jermoso refuge, with the peaks of the western massif
behind [above] Looking aross a cloud sea from Vega de Urrielu

the same name, beneath the monumental bulk of Picu Urrielu,

or Naranjo de Bulnes, the monolithic 2519-metre peak, which –
although not the highest summit in the range – is the icon of the
Picos and the most celebrated summit in Spanish mountaineering.
Its towering west face rears above Vega de Urrielu for 500 metres, a
sheer wall of limestone which turns the colour of a rich marmalade
in the light of the sunset (hence its Spanish moniker, although
‘Picu Urrielu’ is claimed to be the proper, older Asturian-language
name by local residents). The true size of that face is only revealed
when you squint closely at it and pick out the tiny figures of
climbers, dwarfed by the vastness of the structure.
After pitching our tents, we ascended a few hundred metres to
the short, steep via ferrata of the Corona del Rasu and scrambled
up to the promontory above it, which gave us an otherworldly view
of that sea of cloud lapping against the tumultuous mountains of
this central massif. Back at the tents, we watched the sunset flare
across the summits before heading into the refuge for dinner.
The night was spectacular clear but also windy and cold, and
sometime around 4am, with the incessant flapping of the tent
fabric fending off any chance of sleep, I resolved to look into
quieter shelters for my future trips.
The first half of the next day, at least, went well. We made our way
across the sublime Jou Sin Tierre – an echoing glacier-carved basin
ringed by peaks – and climbed up to the Collada de Los Horcados
Rojos via a pulse-racing, cable-assisted scramble that stayed just on
the right side of thrilling (I had descended via the same route on my
last visit, and climbing up this way refreshed my memory of how
hairy it felt to slither down that scramble, especially its sections of
scree and loose rock.) “This is awesome,” said my friend, beaming
with exhilaration. We were moving well, the sun was shining and
everything was going to plan. What could possibly go wrong?

THE THRESHOLD
We took a quick stop to take in the sight of the surreal Cabana
Veronica, a tiny four-person refuge repurposed from the gun
turret of an old American battleship and plonked spectacularly
on a lofty ridgeline. Amidst the lunar landscape of rock
surrounding it, it looks like a remote outpost on a far-flung alien
planet, as imagined in a 1950s pulp sci-fi comic.
The next stretch of path was not path at all, but a tenuous route

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 55

Picos de Europa

through a high, chaotic limestone wilderness, punctuated by narrow

teeters across ribs of rock and an ‘interesting’ chimney scramble. The
only signs of the route on the ground were the odd cairn and a faint
polishing of the rocks. “This doesn’t feel right,” I said, at one point,
surveying the route ahead; and, sure enough, we had wandered
off-track. Rather than plough ahead riskily, we carefully retraced our
steps to find the route again, but lost 20 minutes or so
in the process. The sun was beating down hard, and the final scree
slog to the Tiro Casares saddle was tough going.
In retrospect, crossing over the threshold of that saddle was the
turning point in the day. On the similarly scree-filled descent on
the other side, my friend started complaining of knee soreness, and
his morale seemed to sag. But we made our way across the massif,
passing through enormous corries – one of which contained a
remnant snow patch with a herd of chamois resting on it to gain
relief from the sweltering sun – and marvelling as we turned a [above] Picu Urrielu (on the left) and Torre Cerredo seen from near Las Arenas
corner and were hit by a view of the mighty western massif of the
Picos, just as a flock of beautiful white-winged snow finches fluttered

THE PICOS DE EUROPA:

out from the crags above us.
Once we reached the Refugio Collado Jermoso, I did entertain the
idea of calling it a day there. My friend was clearly uncomfortable,
and I knew the upcoming section would be steep and difficult.
ESSENTIAL INFO
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But the day was still relatively young, my friend said he was happy
to go on, it wasn’t that far on paper, and – hazardously – we had
WKURXJKDQGDURXQGWKHFHQWUDOPDVVLIRIWKH3LFRVGH
a guest house booked in the valley below. Besides, I thought, as (XURSD7KHURXWHWRWDOOHGNP PLOHV ZLWKDURXQG
I combed through my memories, it wasn’t that difficult, was it? P IHHW RIDVFHQWIROORZLQJWKLVLWLQHUDU\
Day 1: Sotres to Vega d’Urrielu, via Vega de Liordes or Collado
PAPER TIGER plus climb up to the short via de Valdeon.
Skip forward a few anxious, arduous hours, and we found ferrata of Corona del Rasu The Picos de Europa is divided
ourselves confronted with the appalling sight of that final traverse. Day 2: Vega d’Urrielu to into three massifs: eastern,
But just as I was still racking my brain for a solution, my friend Posada de Valdeon via Cabana central and western. The central
started making his way to the start of the section. “Are you sure?” Veronica and Tiro Casares massif draws most walkers and
I asked. “I’m just going to take a look,” he replied. The route turned Day 3: Day walk from Posada climbers thanks to the presence
out to be a paper tiger – fearsome-looking, but not actually that de Valdeon up to Penon de of landmarks like Picu Urrielu
threatening up close. We made our way carefully across, before la Iglesia and the Cares Gorge, but all are
Day 4: Posada de Valdeon to spectacular. Hiking in the high
finally emerging on to secure terra firma with immense relief, and
Poncebos via the Cares Gorge areas of the Picos often involves
eventually stumbling into our accommodation in the lovely village of negotiating steep and exposed
Day 5: Poncebos to Sotres
Posada de Valdeon after almost 13 long hours in the mountains. via Bulnes paths with scrambling sections,
We were OK in the end, but the Picos had served us a few salutary but less demanding walking can
lessons. My friend had gritted his teeth and battled through, but he Although this route was a be found in the valleys and lower
shouldn’t have had to. The ordeal could have been avoided, or at least change from Carey’s original sections surrounding the peaks.
managed, by not sticking slavishly to Plan A when the signs were plan of looping through the There are several rifugios – basic
pointing towards caution. We had spent too long in the precarious western massif of the Picos as staffed mountain huts providing
zone where tiredness and frustration combine to obscure good well, it would make the basis of a dorm accommodation and meals
decision-making and push up the chances of an accident. As the fantastic tour for anyone new to – dotted throughout the range.
‘author’ of the trip, I should have done better. the range. The section from Vega English is widely spoken in main
d’Urrielu to Posada de Valdeon tourist towns and villages but
That evening, we revised our route for the rest of the holiday,
involves a steep cable-assisted a grasp of some basic Spanish
jettisoning the planned circuit of the western massif in favour of a can be useful for the huts.
scramble (Horcados Rojos)
lighter itinerary. I spent a day hiking from Valdeon whilst my friend plus a section of challenging Wild camping (bivouacking) is
rested, and the next day we descended via the awesome Cares Gorge near-pathless terrain (Cabana allowed above 1500 metres.
to spend a couple of nights in the hub village of Las Arenas – which Veronica to Tiro Casares) and The nearest airport to the
we would use as a base for day hikes – before climbing back up to should only by experienced Picos de Europa is Bilbao, a 2.5-
Sotres through plunging gorges, lush oak forests and pretty pastures, mountain walkers who are hour drive, while the ferry port
via the extremely picturesque roadless shepherd village of Bulnes. comfortable with scrambling, of Santander is a 1.5-hour drive.
The Picos de Europa seem to have ensnared my imagination. and ideally in good visibility. Public transport is limited but
After this second visit, I am currently planning a third, with the aim To avoid this section and some buses run from Santander
of exploring that western side of the massif. But it’s not through any stick to clearer paths, you to tourist hubs like Las Arenas.
could devise a route involving Cicerone’s walking guidebook
sense of ‘unfinished business’; I simply find these simultaneously
descending via the Fuente for the region is Walking in the
compact yet huge mountains, and the culture woven through them, Picos de Europa: 42 walks and
Dé cable car, spending an
to be fascinating, and I want to return. overnight in the valley, and WUHNVLQ6SDLQèVĆUVWQDWLRQDOSDUN,
This trip was still an awe-inspiring experience, and none the worse getting back to the circuit by Robin Walker.
for the change of plan. That was the most important lesson.

56 The Great Outdoors July 2023

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July 2023 The Great Outdoors 57

{ SKILLS HIKING }
Backpacking in scorching
temperatures in
California's Sierra Nevada
HERE COMES THE SUN:
HOW TO HIKE IN THE HEAT
International Mountain Leader
Mike Raine shares his advice
for walking on sunshine (safely)
during hotter days in the hills
IN THE SUMMERTIME, when the
weather is high you can stretch right up
and touch the sky – or so we’ve heard.
And there’s no better place to get within
reaching distance of that hot ball of
glowing gases than in the mountains.
But you don’t want to descend from Ben
More with a sunburn more befitting of
the beaches of Benidorm than Bonnie
Scotland – or, worse, suffer any of the other
dangerous effects of heat in high places.
Due to an unfamiliarity with the
sun, we hillwalkers are often woefully
underprepared for its appearances. As
Mike Raine (WMCI, IML and author of
The Mountain Leader – a practical manual)
told The Great Outdoors: “we typically
underestimate the effect of the sun”. You
only need to glance into a Borrowdale beer
58 The Great Outdoors July 2023
garden at 3pm on the second Saturday of
summer to know he’s not wrong.
Yes, we can already sense the murmurs of
“we should be so lucky” and an onslaught
of reader letters cursing the ‘Great British
weather’ as I write this. But in Mike’s
experience mountaineers “have had to
learn to deal with drier and hotter weather
in recent years” as our temperate maritime
climate shifts with the impact of global
warming. According to the Met Office,
all of the UK’s ten warmest years on record
have occurred since 2002. Indeed, it’s not
long since we lamented another warm,
wet winter, watching as snow melted from
places it should not have quicker than we
could’ve imagined.
And now, here comes the sun once again.
Time to root around for the wide-brimmed
hat and begin bulk buying sweat-resistant
suncream. But first…
Cold day in the sun
Before reaching for the map, a lifetime of
weather-related disappointment has taught
most of us to check the forecast first. It
might be disheartening to pack for every
HOW TO
Words: Francesca Donovan
season on a single walk, but it’s still wise to
heed weather forecasts – even in the heat.
This means more than checking
temperature and precipitation. Pay
attention to humidity levels and UV
exposure. These predict how dry the
air will feel and the required level of
protection to keep you safe from harmful
UV rays, respectively.
It’s also worth noting what the wind will
be doing on the tops, according to Mike.
who says a dry wind can exacerbate heat.
“Whilst a breeze might help you feel cooler,
it could also dry you out,” he adds.
When it becomes time to map your
Photo credits: Carey Davies (above), Jessie Leong (right)
route, hot weather requires further
considerations. Mountainous areas
rarely offer much shade due to declining
tree coverage, so you should start early
during the cooler parts of the day.
Alternatively, plot a route sticking to
one side of the summit to remain in the
shadow of the peak.
Plan breaks during the heat, perhaps
plotting routes to shelters reachable by the
hottest time of the day. Contrary to popular
belief, this is not necessarily at noon when

the sun is at its highest point in the sky,
but rather between 2 and 3pm. The window
in which to be wary, more generally, is
between 11am and 3pm.
Furthermore, why not try diverting
the usual high-level mountain traverses
for a waterfall or plunge pool on route?
Mike said, “For many years, part of
mountaineering has been going for a dip
in mountain lakes. Obviously this needs
to be done wisely, but at the very least
soaking your feet will help you to feel
better.” If you are swimming, don’t be
tempted to dive right in. Submerge slowly
taking deep, steady breaths and give your
body time to adjust.
Multi-day backpackers must ensure
their route hits plenty of potential water
sources, with extra options factored in.
(There’s nothing more soul-destroying
than walking a mile off-route in the heat
of the day to find a dried-up source.)
Pocketful of sunshine
Once you’ve plotted your route, it’s time to
pull on some warm-weather clobber and
pack up your gear. Mike says, “It’s hard
to stay in the shade on a mountain in the
summer so full body clothing – yes, long
trousers, long sleeves and a silly hat – are
important. Of course, suncream is helpful;
but covering up is better.”
Let’s start from the top, shall we?
“A proper sun hat with an all-round
brim that covers ears and the back of the
neck is important. A baseball-style cap
does not cut the mustard.”
“By all means, pack lighter; but the ever-
changing conditions at altitude still require
you to take layers of warm clothing...”
Likewise, “a multifunctional neck gaiter
can be invaluable when it’s really hot. I
dip mine in water often to keep me cool.”
He pays particular attention to his wrists
and the back of his neck. Keeping these
areas cool is a great way to lower your
temperature as this cools the blood that
is circulating around your body. Finally, a
gaiter or Buff can help stop the (inevitable)
sweat from getting in your eyes. (Those
who wear contact lenses will know the
stinging agony which results). You’ll
also need a pair of sunglasses with UV
protection to protect your peepers.
Working our way down, lightweight,
loose and moisture wicking clothing is
preferable so you don’t get cold when you
stop and your sweat dries. You can also
invest in breathable base layers with UV
protective qualities. It also might be time
to ditch the heavy leather hiking boots for
trail runners during the summer season.
Don’t be tempted to pack less in the heat.
By all means, pack lighter; but the ever-
changing conditions at altitude still require
you to take layers of warm clothing in case
of both weather shifts or an emergency.
Soak up the sun
Hydration is key when hillwalking in the
heat. Mike says, “Always start the day well
Dayswimming: a great
way to cool down
during a hot hike
{ SKILLS HIKING }
hydrated and try to sip water as the day
goes on rather than glugging large amounts
all at once. Drinking bladders are very
good for this.” Mike recommends carrying
half a litre of spare water “as it’s hard to
tell how much is left in your bladder and
running out would be poor form”.
Running out is a common concern,
especially for backpackers. When seeking
water, always check above the source:
“Is there human habitation? Livestock?
Is the water running clear and fresh
from a recognisable spring?”
Water is vital, but on hot days you’ll
also need to replace lost sugars and salts.
Some choose electrolyte powders or
tablets – but these tend to be “a last resort”.
Others simply add squash or a vitamin C
tablet to their afternoon bottle of water.
Set the controls for
the heart of the sun
Even when prepared, the heat can still
prove overwhelming as “our bodies are less
well adapted to being too hot than they are
to being too cold.”
Heat exhaustion is a minor if unpleasant
condition caused by losing water and
electrolytes. The first signs include
tiredness, nausea, light-headedness and
profuse sweating. If you notice these
symptoms, you must rehydrate, find shade,
check your body is covered appropriately,
and take it easy by slowing the pace moving
forward. At this stage, Mike recommends
you also consider re-routing.
Left unchecked, heat exhaustion can
lead to heat stroke – a life-threatening rise
in core temperature triggered by the body
generating heat faster than it can cool
down. Heat stroke can cause the brain to
fail: potentially fatal in 30 minutes.
High temperatures and profuse sweating
that suddenly stops are very serious
warning signs, as are a rapid, strong pulse,
rapid breathing and muscle cramps. Be
alert for these. At first sign, evacuation
off the mountain should be sought by
contacting Mountain Rescue immediately.
Prevention is clearly better than cure.
When it comes to staying safe on the hills
in the heat, stick to Mike’s rules: “Cover
up, drink and take it easy,” he advises.
“Crucially, be prepared to change your
route. The mountain will still be there
next week. Make sure you are.”
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 59
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GEAR
News from the world of outdoor kit,
and product reviews from the UK’s Gear section
most experienced gear-testing team 62 Sleeping bag comparative
68 Trip report

Gear News

The North Face

trail collection is
inspired by the
roadrunner
Aiming to be the fastest out west?
Perhaps the new Enchanted Trails
„k‰kųåĬ屟åŸĬĜčĘƋƵåĜčĘƋÏŅŅĩ collection from The North Face is for
set combo for solo adventurers you. Created to improve your running
The lightweight, compact SOTO Thermostack Cook Set Combo experience, it is inspired by the high
is designed for solo backpackers and travellers. Constructed desert and its aerodynamic and fastest-
from aluminium, titanium and stainless steel, the eight-piece set moving inhabitant: the roadrunner bird.
weighs 310g and measures 8.6x11cm when stowed. It includes Alongside technical shorts, jackets and
an aluminium pot (750ml), which doubles as a mug, a titanium accessories, the collection includes
mug (400ml), a stainless steel mug (350ml), a pot handle, two revamped footwear – the brand’s
sipping lids, a joint to combine two mugs and enhance heat most technical yet. The Summit
retention, plus an insulated cover that keeps ingredients warm Vectiv Pro is a proven race day
and doubles as a bag. Qe shoe optimising stability. The
newheights.co.uk RYHUVL]HGOXJVDQGGXUDEOHXSSHURIWKH9HFWLY,QĆQLWHRIIHU
responsive protection. Lastly, the Vectiv Eminus provides long-lasting
comfort in an ultra-light yet supportive shoe. Q)URPe
thenorthface.com
Scarpa extends
its recycled
‘Planet’ range
Scarpa has extended its
eco range of footwear with
three new models, including
a trail runner. For hikers, the Mescalito TRK Planet is Sea to
designed for treks with a heavier backpack. Scarpa Summit
claims it “is the new green benchmark in the trekking creates
world” thanks to the innovative Perspair fabric.
Lightweight and breathable, the fabric is made from a
a fully
single-piece upper with 45% recycled yarns as well as
submersible
abrasion-resistant PUtek inserts. ÚƚýåĬěŸƋƼĬåÚųƼ쪱Ïĩ
It also features the new Gore-Tex Airtight and fully submersible, Sea to Summit’s Hydraulic Pro Dry Pack,
Flux membrane, which contains inspired by the natural landscapes of Australia, is designed to withstand
98% recycled fabrics, and a extreme conditions on land and water. The pressure-tested waterproof,
Vibram Ecostep Evo compound welded seams meet IPX8 submersion rating to 4m below surface.
sole, with 30% recycled rubber. The pack is almost indestructible thanks to 1000D TPU laminated
The ‘Planet’ range also now fabric. Comfortable to carry, it also features a padded, adjustable and
boasts the Mescalito Planet, VWHUQXPVWUDSZKLOVWIRUPĆWWLQJVKRXOGHUVWUDSVDQGH[WHQGHGIRDP
a technical approach shoe. back panels provide protection. An asymmetrical zip gives good access
QFrom £165 to pack contents. Available in 50l, 75l and 100l. QFrom £350
scarpa.co.uk seatosummit.co.uk

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 61

Gear comparative review
THREE-SEASON
SLEEPING BAGS
Mountain Leader Lucy Wallace and wildlife photographer
James Roddie enjoy sleeping out in the mountains, as warm
and dry as can be in the latest three-season sleeping bags
Photo credit: Chris McClean / Rab
THE FEELINGRIĆQDOO\EHLQJDEOHWRFRV\XS
in your sleeping bag after a day in the hills is one
of the simple pleasures that makes camping
so rewarding. Choose the wrong bag, however,
DQG\RXPLJKWĆQG\RXUVHOITXLFNO\ZLVKLQJ\RX
were back at home in bed. If you are intending
to camp in the spring, summer or autumn, then
a three-season sleeping bag is the best all-round
option. These bags are designed to be versatile
– allowing you to keep comfortable as the
temperature drops towards 0 deg C yet not
causing you to overheat during the warmer
nights of summer.
Temperature regulation when camping can be
tricky with the UK’s climate, particularly during
WKHVSULQJDQGDXWXPQ<RXQHYHUTXLWHNQRZ
what the weather will throw at you; as I (James)
write this it is gently snowing, but a week ago
it was 17 deg C. When you are buying a three-
season sleeping bag, look for features that allow
you to adapt to the weather. A ‘comfort’ rating
RIDURXQGGHJ&VKRXOGEHVXIĆFLHQWIRUWKH
majority of chilly nights outside of the winter
months, and ventilation zips will be welcome
62 The Great Outdoors July 2023
Rab Neutrino
in action
LI\RXĆQG\RXUVHOIFDPSLQJGXULQJDZDUPVSHOO
Sleeping bag insulation can either be synthetic or
natural (down), and both have their pros and
FRQV6\QWKHWLFĆOOHGEDJVWHQGWREHFKHDSHU
and more resistant to moisture, whereas down
bags have a better warmth-to-weight ratio, and
generally pack down smaller.
7KUHHVHDVRQVOHHSLQJEDJVDUHMXVWLĆDEO\
popular, and given this there is a wide range
available. Consider your intended usage
carefully. If you are mainly a lightweight
backpacker, then look for the best compromise
between weight, warmth and packed size.
Down sleeping bags are usually the best option
here. If you are a more generalist camper or on
a tight budget, then a heavier, synthetic bag may
be more suitable and affordable.
Another important consideration is that
people vary widely in how cold or warm they
tend to sleep. If you tend to feel the cold readily,
WKHQ\RXPD\ĆQGWKHFRPIRUWUDWLQJRIDVOHHSLQJ
bag does not translate to reality, and you will
probably need to select a bag with a lower
comfort rating.
Features
Shape and size
A smaller bag weighs less, but it needs to be
big enough for the user. The mummy shape
keeps cold spots to a minimum and hugs the
body. Bags are often available in different
VL]HVDQGRUJHQGHUVWRDFKLHYHEHVWĆW
Fill
Synthetic insulation costs less and ‘lofts’
ćXIIVXS ZKHQZHWEXWLWLVKHDYLHUDQG
less compressible than down. Synthetic bags
are also easier to clean. Down insulation
is very light and warm, with superb
compressibility, but it’s expensive and has
reduced lofting when wet. Down may be
treated to improve water resistance.
Shell
The shell should be durable yet lightweight
enough to allow the insulation to loft. For
down bags, the shell should be leakproof
to prevent feathers escaping through the
weave. The outer may have a durable
ZDWHUUHSHOOHQW ':5 WUHDWPHQW
Construction
For down bags, there are compartments that
may either be stitched through on both sides,
which can cause cold spots, or with box walls
to minimise cold spots. Typical synthetic bags
KDYHZRYHQZDGVRIĆOODQFKRUHGZLWKOLJKW
stitching to the shell fabric.
Zip
Usually ¾-length, but sometimes shorter
or even absent to save weight. The zip will
ideally be two-way to allow venting.
cåÏĩxDŽĜŞƱÿåŸ
Prevent heat loss around the neck and the zip.
Weight
The lighter the better if the bag needs to be
FDUULHGEXWOHVVĆOOPHDQVOHVVLQVXODWLRQ
so this is usually a compromise.
Temperature ratings
Standardised ISO ratings allow comparison
of different bags. The ‘comfort rating’ is the
temperature at which a “standard woman”
sleeps comfortably. The ‘limit rating’ is the
temperature at which a “standard man”,
curled up, is in “thermal equilibrium” ie resists
hypothermia. The ratings do not take into
account individual metabolisms, the sleeping
mat or other unique variables.
Ethics
Synthetic bags are vegan, and can be entirely
made from recycled materials but have
VKRUWHUOLIHVSDQWKDQGRZQ7KHĆOOEUHDNV
GRZQRYHUWLPHDQGPLFURĆEUHVPD\FDXVH
problems for the environment. Down bags
contain animal products. Look for the RDS
standard to ensure that the supply chain
is cruelty-free. Down bags usually outlast
synthetic models.
 comparative review Gear

WOMEN’S BACKPACKS
by Lucy Wallace
TESTING CONDITIONS
Lucy is 171cm tall with narrow shoulders. She sleeps cold, so likes a warm bag. Her bags were tested in winter and spring conditions
in Scotland and the Lakes, both wild camping and in a campervan. Weights including stuff sack were measured on Lucy's digital scales.

BEST BUY RECOMMENDED

Rab ‰Ęåųĵě
±ěåŸƋ
Women’s Neutrino
{±ųŸåÏƗlj8xěƆ
Ċljlj

ƊĊljlj îĊŀč
ƊĊƑlj ŀƑăčŠųåčƚĬ±ųš
light and warm
very warm for weight, three sizes
expensive, snug fit for taller women available

Fill: 400g 800FP Nikwax hydrophobic RDS European
goose down
Shell: 20D Pertex Quantum recycled nylon ripstop
Construction: trapezoidal box wall
Zip: ¾-length YKK two-way anti-snag
Length: 200cm
Rating: comfort -1°C, limit -7°C
Sizes: one
Men’s version: yes
rab.equipment
This latest edition of Rab’s
classic Neutrino 400 sleeping
bag was launched in 2022.
The most obvious change is
WKHFKHYURQVKDSHGEDIćHV
which Rab says help to
manage the down distribution
and also reduce the number of
EDIćHVQHHGHGFXWWLQJZHLJKW
There’s an improved
drawcord system in the hood
DQGQHFNEDIćHZKLFKLVQRZ
much neater and less likely to
ćRSLQWRWKHIDFH,OLNHWKDW
WKHQHFNEDIćHLVDGMXVWDEOH
Other features include a small
pocket inside the hood and a
snag-resistant two-way zip.
The women’s version is
smaller than the men’s, which
is a weight saving; but if like me
you are over 170cm tall it’s a
tad short, and it’s also narrow
at 156cm girth. The smaller
VL]HLVPRUHHIĆFLHQWIRU
trapping warm air, minimising
cold patches, but some women
PD\ĆQGWKH\DUHPRUH
comfortable sizing up to
a men’s bag.
7KHEDJLVĆOOHGZLWK
European goose down,
FHUWLĆHGE\WKH5HVSRQVLEOH
Down Standard, at Rab’s
factory in the UK. This means
WKDWRQFHĆOOHGLWWUDYHOVYHU\
little distance to the consumer
and is never stored packed
prior to purchase. This results
in spectacular lofting
capabilities – although these
could diminish a little with use.
The tough Pertex Quantum
that is used both inside and
outside the bag is made from
recycled materials and is
ćXRURFDUERQIUHH,WèVD
premium down bag for
lightweight use in the shoulder
months and even winter.
([SHQVLYHEXWGHĆQLWHO\
worth the money.
expensive
Fill: 470g 800FP Nikwax hydrophobic RDS down
Shell: 100% recycled nylon ripstop DWR
Construction: box wall
Zip: ¾-length two-way YKK anti-snag
Length: 203cm (regular)
Rating: comfort 0°C, limit -6°C
Sizes: small, regular, long
Men’s version: no, unisex
thermarest.com
Overall, this bag scored
really highly in my review.
,WZDVWHVWHGLQYHU\VRJJ\
conditions, normally
problematic for down sleeping
bags. The hydrophobic down
got a good soaking but
completely dried out in an
afternoon on the front seat of
my van in the sunshine.
,WèVZDUPIRULWVZHLJKWDV
you would expect with a down
bag, and it’s got some nice
details. There’s a cosy pocket
for feet in the bottom, and a
large zipped pocket on the
outside. There are removable
straps underneath
(‘SynergyLink Connectors’)
that help to secure it to
your sleeping pad, and it’s
compatible with most
OLJKWZHLJKWSDGVQRWMXVW
Therm-a-Rest’s. The mummy
hood is deep and luxurious,
and good for cold nights.
The otherwise generous neck
EDIćHLVQèWDGMXVWDEOHVRWKHUH
is a danger of losing a little heat
in this area.
The Parsec -6 is not available
in men’s and women’s versions,
but Therm-a-Rest produces
three sizes. This makes sense
to me, as a taller woman
FP ,RIWHQĆQGP\VHOI
on the upper limit of women’s
bags, but don’t want the extra
weight and dead space of a
men’s bag. The regular that
,WHVWHGZDVJHQHURXVLQ
length (203cm) and fairly
narrow (157cm girth), and
DUHDVRQDEOHĆWRYHUDOO
This bag also hits a lot of
ethical plus points, with the
shell and liner made entirely
from recycled materials and
ĆOOHGZLWK5HVSRQVLEOH'RZQ
Standard down.

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 63

Gear comparative review
RECOMMENDED
Sierra
Designs
Women’s
cĜčĘƋ±ŞƗlj
ƊŏƆlj ŏƆƗƆč
versatile, especially for
warm sleepers
zipless design can lead
to draughts
Fill: 1276g recycled Sierraloft Eco Synthetic
Shell: 20D recycled polyester
Construction: synthetic fill
Zip: none
Length: 188cm
Rating: comfort +1°C, limit -5°C
Sizes: one
Men’s version: yes
sierradesigns.com
Sierra Designs has pioneered
LQQRYDWLYH]LSOHVVEDJ
designs, including the
Nightcap 20. There’s isn’t any
weight saving by losing the
]LSDVORWVPRUHLQVXODWLRQLV
needed to create the
wrapover shape, but it does
create versatility for warm
sleepers who like to be able to
vent through the night and
allows for spreading out a bit
if needed. There’s even an
overlapping opening at the
feet for dumping heat. The
drawback is if you are an
energetic side sleeper: the
wrapover comforter can
fall open with too much
movement, leading to
draughts. The big plus is that
it’s wonderfully easy to get
in and out of, and there’s no
GDQJHURIVQDJJLQJ]LSV
The bag includes a sleeping
64 The Great Outdoors July 2023
mat sleeve on the base that
you can slide your pad into
to keep it in place. There
LVQèWDQHFNEDIćHEXWWKH
comforter can be tucked in
and around the shoulders
and works well if you don’t
move about too much.
It’s a fairly heavy bag at
JEXWWKHĆOOLVTXLWH
compressible for synthetic
insulation, and the bag can
be squished down to much
less than it’s advertised
19x38cm. The Eco Synthetic
ĆOOLVPDGHIURPUHF\FOHG
water bottles, and the shell
is recycled too.
Overall, it’s clever and
warm, with a smaller
environmental footprint than
many other synthetic bags;
and although it won’t suit
everybody, some will love the
versatile comforter system.
Kelty
œŅĵåĹűŸŅŸĵĜÏ„ƼĹƋĘåƋĜÏƗlj
Ɗŀlj ŏîăƆč
good value, warm
heavy, not very compressible
Fill: 1300g CirroLoft
Shell: 380T nylon taffeta
Construction: synthetic fill
Zip: Kelty’s own brand ¾-length two-way
Length: 188cm
Rating: comfort -4°C, limit -11°C
Sizes: one
Men’s version: yes
kelty.com
The Cosmic 20 synthetic
sleeping bag is very good
value if your main selection
criteria are warmth and
overall price. The comfort
rating of -4°C may be a little
ambitious for me (I’m a cold
sleeper) but I was warm
and cosy sleeping in my
campervan, despite when
I awoke there being ice on
the inside of the windows
and a hard frost outside.
The bag features generous
but non-adjustable front and
EDFNQHFNEDIćHVDQGD
EDIćHEHKLQGWKH]LSZLWK
anti-snag reinforcement.
The mummy hood has a
drawcord so that it can be
tightened to keep heat in
around the face.
At 188cm long, it’s still long
enough for people up to
172cm tall. It’s also quite
wide around the footbox,
providing some wiggle room
for side sleepers. It’s heavy at
1856g, but it’s worth noting
that it’s the only bag I tested
whose advertised weight
(1810g) was anything like
its measured weight.
Kelty’s proprietary
&LUUR/RIWV\QWKHWLFĆEUHV
do feel quite stiff and bulky,
DQGWKLVLVUHćHFWHGLQWKH
lack of compressibility
when the bag is stuffed.
,WVPLQLPXPSDFNVL]HLV
41x25cm, which takes up
a lot of precious room in a
backpack. For this reason
it’s best suited to car
camping, and this is the
main drawback to what is
otherwise a warm and
affordable sleeping bag.

MEN’S BACKPACKS
by James Roddie
TESTING CONDITIONS
James is 180cm tall with average-width shoulders. He tends to be a ‘cold sleeper’, and he has taken this into consideration.
He tested the sleeping bags in a variety of conditions in the Scottish Highlands during the spring – in overnight temperatures
ranging from around +2°C to +9°C. He weighed the sleeping bags (including stuff sacks) using his own digital scales.
BEST BUY
„å±ƋŅ
„ƚĵĵĜƋ
eŸÏåĹƋeÏĬěĊ
ƊƑƗlj ŀƗƆčŠųåčƚĬ±ųš
warm, packs down very small,
ĘƼÚųŅŞĘŅÆĜÏÚŅƵĹĀĬĬţ
expensive
Fill: 330g 750FP Ultra-Dry down
Shell: 20D ripstop nylon
Construction: side block baffle
Zip: 2-way, full-length on left, 2-way, 1/3-length on right
Length: 205cm (regular)
Rating: comfort +2°C, limit -4°C
Sizes: regular, long
Women’s version: no
seatosummit.co.uk
This is shaped something like a
mid point between a mummy
and a semi-rectangular bag.
If you are not a fan of the
IRUPHUèVVQXJĆWDURXQGWKH
legs and feet, this may be a
really good choice for you. The
foot box feels spacious, giving
you plenty of ‘wiggle room’.
It comes with a generous
lofting sack and an ultralight
compression sack. When
packed down in the latter,
it really is compact: about
25x17x17cm – the smallest
in this test.
7KHJRIĆOOSRZHU
Ultra-Dry hydrophobic down
certainly did a good job of
keeping me warm on nights
when the temperature
dropped to around 3°C.
Sea to Summit claims the
Ultra-Dry water-repellent
treatment allows this bag to
dry out 60% faster than bags
with untreated down – good
for bivvying – though I wasn’t
able to test this directly.
The hood is generous but
can be tightened down. One
of my favourite features of
this bag is the zip on the
right-hand side. It made it
really easy to change clothing
inside the bag, and provides
ample ventilation. There is
also a foot box ventilation zip.
$EDIćHUXQVDORQJWKHOHQJWK
of the main zip and this foot
box zip. However, in the bag
I tested, its insulation did not
extend along the length of the
foot box zip. It was hard to tell
whether this was due to the
GRZQçPLJUDWLQJèEXW,GLGĆQG
my feet getting a little colder
in this bag than in others.
Overall, the Ascent is a very
attractive option: warm,
lightweight and suitable for
a wide variety of conditions.
comparative review Gear
RECOMMENDED
Robens
FÏåü±ĬĬ{ųŅŀljlj
Ɗŏŀlj ŏĊŀăč
very warm and comfortable,
versatile centre zip design
heavy, long with no shorter option
Fill: 900g MicroThermo Ball 600FP polyester
Shell: 20D ripstop nylon
Construction: box wall
Zip: 2-way, near-full-length in centre
Length: 220cm
Rating: comfort 0°C, limit -5°C
Sizes: long
Women’s version: no
robens.de/en-gb
This is the warmest sleeping
bag in this review. The 900g
MicroThermo Ball synthetic
insulation is highly effective, and
,IHOWFRPĆHULQFROGHU
temperatures compared to the
other bags I tested. It has the
feel of a down bag in the way it
çćXIIVèXSDQGLVLQVWDQWO\FRV\
when you climb in. But you pay
for this with the weight: at
1395g it is quite heavy to
backpack with. At 220cm long
this sleeping bag certainly
seems to be aimed at taller
people, and unfortunately no
shorter version is available.
If you are someone who likes
to sit up in your sleeping bag in
your tent to eat or read etc then
this one may be well suit you, as
a high waist drawcord really
helps to keep the warmth in. It is
easy to be initially sceptical of
having the zip in the centre of
the bag rather than on one of
the sides, but I quickly fell in love
with this design. Firstly, I found
that it made getting in and out
of the bag much easier when
camping in a small shelter where
space is limited. This is especially
the case when using a bivvy bag.
Secondly it made it easier to
change clothing layers without
getting out of the bag. Thirdly it
allows for even ventilation over
your core if you decide to open
the zip during the night. There is
no side ventilation zip, but I felt
it would be unnecessary with
this centre zip design. It is easy
to undo the zip almost to the
feet, and use the bag like a quilt
in warmer conditions. People
who tend to get warm feet
may miss the lack of a foot box
ventilation zip however.
Whilst quite heavy and
lacking a shorter version, the
Icefall Pro 900 is a well-
designed three-season bag,
particularly if you want to
prioritise warmth and comfort.
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 65
Gear comparative review
Nordisk
kŸÏ±ųěƗàƚųƴå
ƊƗŀƆ ŀĊljčŠĬ±ųčåš
ĬĜčĘƋƵåĜčĘƋØŸĵ±ĬĬŸĜDŽåƵĘåĹ
ޱÏĩåÚ±Ƶ±ƼØŏljljŢųåÏƼÏĬåÚ
ŸƼĹƋĘåƋĜÏĀĬĬĜĹčĵ±ÚåüųŅĵ
ųåÏƼÏĬåÚ{)‰ÆŅƋƋĬåŸ
åƻŞåĹŸĜƴåØDŽĜŞěŞƚĬĬŸŸĵ±ĬĬ
±ĹÚüĜÚÚĬƼ
Fill: NorGuard S-PO s-core fibre
Shell: 7D ripstop nylon
Construction: offset double box wall
Zip: 2-way, 3/4-length on left
Length: 205cm (large)
Rating: comfort +4°C, limit -2°C
Sizes: medium, large, extra-large
Women’s version: no
nordisk.co.uk
This is a lightweight and
very packable three-
season sleeping bag. I was
immediately impressed
with its small size when
packed away, and if you are
carrying a lot of other gear
in your rucksack this is a big
advantage. It is supplied with
two different carry sacks – a
dry-sack and an extremely
lightweight bag made from
the same ripstop nylon as the
sleeping bag shell and lining.
This makes things easy to cut
the overall weight down as
much as possible. The shell
and lining material feels soft,
comfortable and very thin.
$OWKRXJKWKHĆUVWLPSUHVVLRQ
is that this material may
be prone to damage, it
seems to be surprisingly
resistant to tearing. The
‘curve’ shape of the bag is
described by Nordisk as ‘the
optimal balance between
insulation and space’,
based on the premise that
most people sleep in an
S-shape ‘running position’.
I sleep in multiple different
positions during the night,
so I certainly enjoyed the
ćH[LELOLW\WKDWWKLVDOORZHG
66 The Great Outdoors July 2023
As well as the two-way
side zip, the bag includes
ventilation zips on both the
right shoulder and foot box.
This is most welcome on
warmer nights or when you
wake up feeling stuffy.
+RZHYHU,GLGĆQGWKDWWKH
]LSSXOOVZHUHVPDOODQGĆGGO\
DQGGLIĆFXOWWRĆQGGXULQJWKH
night. The hood and draught
collar are both easily adjusted,
and my head felt nicely
insulated on cold nights.
In low temperatures I like to
be able to tighten the hood
and collar so that only my
nose, mouth and chin are
exposed, and this was easily
achievable.
I tested this bag down to
temperatures of +4°, and
whilst I felt comfortable for
some of the night, I needed to
put on an extra layer quite
soon in order to avoid feeling
cold. (As stated, I sleep on
the cold side.) Whilst other
sleeping bags I tested felt
warmer in comparable
conditions, the Oscar -2°
Curve is a good option for
three-season backpacking
when size and weight are
crucial considerations.
%åƚƋåų
kųÆĜƋěăà
Ɗŏŏă ŏîƑljčŠųåčƚĬ±ųš
Ƶ±ųĵرýŅųÚ±ÆĬåŞųĜÏåØĘĜčĘĬƼÚƚų±ÆĬå
Ęå±ƴƼØĬ±ųčåƵĘåĹޱÏĩåÚ±Ƶ±Ƽ
Fill: 900g high-loft hollowfibre
Shell: 50D Rec Pes ripstop
Construction: 2-layer
Zip: 2-way, full-length on left
Length: 205cm (regular)
Rating: comfort +1°C, limit -5°C
Sizes: regular, large
Women version: yes
deutergb.co.uk
The Deuter Orbit -5° is a
warm, affordable three-
season sleeping bag. It is not
aimed at lightweight
backpackers - at 1700g it’s a
heavy bag. From the outset,
it’s obvious that warmth
and comfort have been
prioritised over weight and
transportability. Even when
packed down as small as
possible in the included
compression sack, the bag
still takes up a lot of space
in a rucksack.
0\ĆUVWQLJKWRIWHVWLQJWKLV
bag was in quite cold spring
conditions at sea level in the
Scottish Highlands. It was
+2°C, and I had developed a
bit of a chill before getting into
the sleeping bag. I was pleased
WRĆQGWKDW,VWDUWHGWRZDUP
up quickly, and remained
comfortable throughout the
night. The foot box is slightly
raised, which is good news for
those with larger feet, and it
feels well-insulated. A thick
EDIćHUXQVDORQJDQGEHKLQG
the zip, doing a great job of
keeping warm air in, as does
the draught collar. The hood
feels warm, but I found it did
not extend over the top/front
of my head as much as I would
like and it felt a little
restrictive. I also found that
whilst the hood is easy to
tighten in the dark, it was
ĆGGO\WRORRVHQ,QFRQWUDVW
the main two-way zip features
a large pull, making it very
HDV\WRĆQGDQGXVHGXULQJWKH
night. The zip goes almost to
the end of the foot box and
can be opened entirely,
allowing ventilation for your
legs or feet on warmer nights.
This zip design means the bag
can also be used as a blanket.
The anti-snag zip guard is an
effective feature, as snagging
zips is a common annoyance
with sleeping bags.
For general three-season
camping this is a warm and
affordable sleeping bag.
It is large and heavy, however,
and if carrying it whilst
backpacking you will notice
the weight quickly.
Gear trip report

TRIP REPORT

Spring in Glen
eýųĜÏ
Chris Townsend puts a range of gear to the test
amid the wonderful woods and Munros of Glen Affric,
one of his favourite parts of the Scottish Highlands

The view along

Glen Affric to
Beinn Fhada

GLEN AFFRIC is one of my favourite glens
and I hadn’t been there for over a year,
which is far too long, so I decided to make a
YLVLWP\ĆUVWVSULQJWULSRIWKH\HDU,VWDUWHG
the walk on a sunny day along the Kintail-
Affric Way in the woods above Loch Affric,
an easy stroll on a forest track with good
YLHZVRYHUWKHWUHHVWRWKHKLOOV
DQGWKHWHPSHUDWXUHTXLFNO\GURSSHG
'HZIRUPHGRQWKHWHQWDQGVRRQIUR]H
7KHUHZDVQRZLQG
By dawn the tent was crackling with
IURVWLQVLGHDQGRXW7KHKLOOVZHUHLQPLVW
(soon dispersed by the sun) and the sky
was clear when I set off on the track up to
WKH%HDODFK&RLUH*KDLGKHLO
before and I wondered how clear it was and
if it really did just stop part way across the
KLOOVLGH,WWXUQHGRXWWREHPRUHGUDPDWLF
WKDQ,H[SHFWHG7KHSDWKLVQDUURZEXW
easy to follow – I don’t think many people
come this way as it’s not an obvious route –
and towards the end it runs along the edge
of steep crags with excellent views of Mam
Photo credits: Chris Townsend

Leaving the woods behind, I walked up
the open upper glen and camped near the
ULYHU$IIULFDĆQHVLWHZLWKVSDFLRXVYLHZV
That evening I sat watching the sun set
over the mountains, glowing gold in the last
OLJKW$VWKHVN\GDUNHQHGVWDUVDSSHDUHG
One reason for taking this route was
to explore a path marked on the map that
made a rising traverse across the hillside
from the bealach then stopped abruptly
QRWIDUEHORZWKHVXPPLWRI0DP6RGKDLO
I couldn’t remember ever taking this path
Sodhail and Carn Eighe, the two highest
VXPPLWVQRUWKRIWKH*UHDW*OHQ
The path did just stop too, but from
its end it was an easy short walk up
grassy slopes to the ridge above and then
onto Mam Sodhail and its massive cairn,

68 The Great Outdoors July 2023


Looking to Torridon
from Mam Sodhail
built by the Ordnance Survey in 1848.
The wind was strong and cold on the
summit. The views were excellent though
distant hills were hazy.
My plan had been to take a path down
into Coire Coulavie but the top of this
was blocked by a large, steep snowbank.
Attempting to descend this without ice axe
or crampons seemed unwise so instead
I took the long ridge over Mullach Cadha
Rainich to Sgurr na Lapaich. This is a
splendid walk and gave better views than
I’d have had in the corrie anyway.
$VWKHZLQGZDVĆHUFHRQWKHULGJH,
descended from Sgurr na Lapaich before
camping. An intricate, rough and narrow
path winds a way down through little crags
on the steep south-east ridge of the hill to
DćDWERJJ\DUHDZKHUH,KDGWRFRQWLQXH
Carn Eighe and Mam
Sodhail from the path
from the Bealach
Coire Ghaidheil
DIDLUZD\EHIRUHĆQGLQJDQ\ZKHUHGU\WR
camp. Here on the edge of the woods I was
sheltered a little from the strengthening
wind. The sky was clouding over and that
night there was no dew or condensation. In
the morning it was just a short walk through
the trees to my car.
Planning and preparation
The forecast was for sunny and windy
ZHDWKHUWKHĆUVWWZRGD\VZLWKDIURVWDW
night then clouding over with rain on the
third day. As usual for spring trips in the
Scottish Highlands this suggested a bit
warmer sleeping bag and clothing than
in summer but not full winter kit.
As the weather had been hot for the
past week I suspected there’d be little snow
left so I didn’t take ice axe or crampons.
trip report Gear
Boots with a view!
As it was I had to change my route once
due to a steep snowbank. The dry weather
also suggested the ground would be
fairly dry so I chose non-waterproof
footwear, reckoning comfort from good
breathability preventing sweaty feet
would be more important than keeping out
water. My feet did get damp once, in the
bogs below Sgurr na Lapaich near the end
of the second day.
I planned on low-level camps due to the
likelihood of strong winds up high, though
I still took a tent with good wind resistance.
As I intended climbing at least one
Munro with the full pack and I knew the
ascents in the area were steep I wanted
to keep the weight as low as possible, so
where there were choices I went for the
lighter option.
July 2023 The Great Outdoors 69
Gear trip report
CLOTHING & FOOTWEAR
BEST BUY
EDZ
Merino Wool
Plaid Flannel Shirt
Ɗŀlj ƑƆăčŠXš
temperature range, comfort, wind resistance
pockets could be bigger
Fabric: merino wool
Pockets: 2 buttoned
Cuffs: buttons
Sizes: S-XL
edz.co.uk
/LNHWKH2XWGRRU5HVHDUFK6XSHU6WUDQGMDFNHW,ĆUVWWULHGWKLV
shirt in spring 2022, and like that jacket it has since become a
IDYRXULWHDQGDQH[FHOOHQWDOWHUQDWLYHWRDOLJKWZHLJKWćHHFH
I’m particularly impressed with the wind resistance of the
FORVHZRYHQIDEULF7KLVLVMXVWHQRXJKWRNHHSRXWWKHZLQGRQ
GD\VZLWKDERYHIUHH]LQJWHPSHUDWXUHV,WZDVWKHRQO\RXWHU
layer I wore whilst walking on this trip and the wind was quite
VWURQJDQGFROGDWWLPHV7KHRQO\RWKHUZDONHUV,VDZRQ0DP
6RGKDLOZHUHERWKZHDULQJZDWHUSURRIMDFNHWV
7KHIDEULFLVDOVRYHU\EUHDWKDEOHVRZKHQWKHVXQFDPHRXW
DQGWKHZLQGGURSSHG,GLGQèWRYHUKHDW,WèVPRUHFRPIRUWDEOH
RYHUDZLGHUUDQJHRIWHPSHUDWXUHVWKDQDćHHFH7KHWKLQ
VRIWZRROGRHVQèWLWFKDQGIHHOVFRPIRUWDEOHQH[WWRWKHVNLQ
2QWKLVWULS,ZRUHLWRYHUDWKLQVKRUWVOHHYHGEDVHOD\HU
2QZLQWHUGD\V,èYHZRUQLWDVDEDVHOD\HU
7KHVKLUWKDVDEXWWRQHGIURQWFXIIVDQGSRFNHWV:LWK
FROGĆQJHUVWKHVPDOOEXWWRQKROHVDUHDOLWWOHDZNZDUGWRXVH
DQGFRXOGGRZLWKEHLQJDELWODUJHU7KHSRFNHWVZRQèWKROGD
VPDUWSKRQHELJJHURQHVZRXOGEHQLFH2YHUDOOWKRXJKWKLVLV
DQH[FHOOHQWVKLUW
70 The Great Outdoors Spri ng 2022
RECOMMENDED
Outdoor
Research
SuperStrand LT
Hoodie
ƊƗƗlj ƑŏăčŠXš
light, warm
non-adjustable hood
Fill: 85% recycled VerticalX SuperStrand polyester
Shell: ripstop nylon
Front: full-length zip
Hood: stretch rim
Cuffs: stretch
Hem: stretch
Pockets: zipped hand
Sizes: men S-XXL, women XS-XL
outdoorresearch.com
6LQFH,ĆUVWXVHGLWLQVSULQJODVW\HDUWKLVOLJKWZHLJKWLQVXODWHG
MDFNHWKDVEHFRPHDIDYRXULWH,QVXE]HURZHDWKHU,èYHZRUQ
it whilst walking, and on trips in milder weather like this one
,èYHZRUQLWLQFDPS2QWKLVRFFDVLRQLWZDVMXVWULJKWIRU
NHHSLQJPHZDUPDWWKHĆUVWIURVW\FDPS
,WèVĆOOHGZLWKDQUHF\FOHGV\QWKHWLFLQVXODWLRQWKDW
mimics the shape of down clusters and has a lattice structure
WRNHHSLWVVKDSH7KLVĆOOLVYHU\VRIWDQGFRPSUHVVHVHDVLO\
so the jacket is comfortable to wear and packs down small for
FDUU\LQJ7KHMDFNHWKDVGLVWLQFWLYHGLVFRQWLQXRXVTXLOWLQJWKDW
is also said to make compressing the jacket easier and which
DOVRUHGXFHVWKHDPRXQWRIVWLWFKLQJ
7KHMDFNHWKDVURRP\KDQGZDUPHUSRFNHWV7KHVHDUHFXW
off by a pack hipbelt and I did wish this wasn’t the case when
ZDONLQJLQWKHMDFNHWLQZLQWHU2QWKLVWULSLWGLGQèWPDWWHU7KH
non-adjustable hood does blow back in a strong wind if worn
RQLWVRZQDVLWèVTXLWHORRVHEXWZRUQRYHUDKDWLWVWD\VRQ
2YHUDOOWKLVLVRQHRIWKHEHVWLQVXODWHGMDFNHWV,èYHWULHG
,WèVYHU\FRPIRUWDEOHDQGKDVH[FHOOHQWZDUPWKIRUWKHZHLJKW
 trip report Gear

BEST BUY

inov-8
ŅÏāƼ:Ƒŀlj
BEST BUY
ƊŏƁă îŏîčŠŀš

ĬĜčĘƋƵåĜčĘƋØÚƚų±ÆĬåØčŅŅÚčųĜŞØƵĜÚåĀƋ
ĹŅƋĘĜĹč
Uppers: mesh with overlays
Sole: Graphene-Grip
Sizes: men 6-14, women 3-8.5
inov-8.com
With warm weather forecast, breathability seemed more
important for footwear than water resistance so I wore these
boots from inov-8. Whilst they do have a higher ankle than
trail shoes they are actually more like a beefed-up version of
the latter than like a hiking boot.
The boots have one feature that makes them very
comfortable – Graphene-infused foam in the midsole. This is
meant to deliver greater energy return than other midsole
materials. It’s certainly soft and comfortable on hard ground,
OLNHWKHIRUHVWURDG,IROORZHGRQWKHĆUVWGD\*UDSKHQHLVDOVR
found in the outsole, which should mean excellent durability.
,IRXQGWKHJULSĆQHRQWKHZLGHYDULHW\RIWHUUDLQ,FURVVHGRQ
the trip.
The uppers are made from breathable knitted mesh with
a tough rand to protect against abrasion. Breathability is
excellent and my feet never felt too hot or sweaty. Drying time
is good too. I did get the boots wet at the end of the second day
on boggy ground, but they dried very quickly during the short
walk the following morning.
7KH5RFć\*ERRWVKDYHDZLGHĆWZKLFKLVMXVWULJKW
for my wide feet. They’re very light too and ideal for three-
season backpacking.
Falke
‰UŏeÚƴåĹƋƚųå
œŅŅĬ‰ųåĩĩĜĹč
„ŅÏĩŸ
ƊƗŀ ŀăčŠĊƗěĊƑš
ŸŅüƋØÏŅĵüŅųƋ±ÆĬåØÆųå±ƋʱÆĬå
ĹŅƋĘĜĹč
Materials: PHULQRZRROSRO\DPLGH
Length: calf
Sizes: men 2.5-12.5, women 2.5-8
falke.com
I’ve had these socks for a few years but hadn’t
worn them much until last winter. After wearing
them on many trips I’m impressed. They’re soft,
comfortable and warm. They come with shaped left
and right feet. I’m never sure how much difference
WKLVPDNHVEXWWKHVHVRFNVFHUWDLQO\ĆWFORVHO\ZLWK
no bunching or loose fabric. And they’ve kept their
shape after many washings and when worn for three
days at a time, as on this trip. They wick moisture fast,
and combined well with the inov-8 boots so I never
had sweaty feet. Near the end of the second day
they did get damp in the bogs below Sgurr na Lapaich
but still felt warm and comfortable. They dried quickly
the next day.

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 71

Gear trip report

EQUIPMENT

ƊƗîă ŀƑăčŠaš

BEST BUY ultralight, pockets, tough fabric, comfort

expensive

Capacity: 60 litres
Atom Packs Materials: body: EPX200 200g/m2 recycled 200 denier face fabric, 45-degree
cross-ply, recycled 70 denier backing fabric; back: 500D textured nylon;
‰ĘåaŅš£Ɔlj side pockets: 210D Robic Extreema; front pocket Dyneema mesh
Closure: rollover with stud and buckle fastenings
Back system: framesheet with 12mm alloy bar, shaped 8mm closed cell foam panel
Hipbelt: padded, adjustable
Pockets: 2 open side, front mesh, base mesh, 2 mesh shoulder strap
Features: front and side elastic
Sizes: 4 length, 5 hipbelt
Load capacity: 19kg
atompacks.co.uk

The Mo 60 is the larger version of the Mo 50, which I gave Best Buy
to in 2021. The extra capacity is the only difference between the two
packs. For this spring backpacking trip the 60 litres were welcome
as I had bulkier clothing and sleeping bag than I’d carry in summer.
The back system is comfortable and stable with the frame
transferring the weight to the wide hipbelt well. The body-hugging
style does lead to a damp back on warm days, as I found on the walk
down Glen Affric, but I don’t mind this as I’d rather have good stability.
The latter was very useful for balance on the steep, rough descent
from Sgurr na Lapaich.
The pack is well-made from tough materials and feels very robust.
There are plenty of pockets for items needed during the day, though
none of these are waterproof so dry-bags are needed in wet weather.
I added the Atom Packs optional hipbelt pocket (28 grams, £20) for
access to small items whilst wearing the pack. There are also long
adjustable shockcords on the side and back for attaching extra gear.
I used these for carrying the bulky closed-cell foam Multimat.
I can’t fault the Mo 60. It is expensive though.

ƊƑŀţălj ŏljăčŠXš

RECOMMENDED
ƴŅĬƚĵåØƵ±ƋåųěųåŸĜŸƋ±ĹƋDŽĜŞØĵ±ÚåüųŅĵŅýÏƚƋŸ

expensive

Atom Packs Capacity: 2.5 litres

Materials: VX21 210D nylon/polyester/PET film
The Roo VX Features: Lycra stretch front pocket, YKK Aquaguard zip, nylon strap
bum bag Sizes: standard, large
atompacks.co.uk

This little bum bag held various items I wanted quick access to
such as a smartphone, mini binoculars, sunglasses (on and off many
WLPHV DQGPRUH7KHĆUVWGD\,ZRUHLWDVDZDLVWSDFNEXWLWGLGQèW
feel that comfortable. I guess I could get used to it like this but for the
next two days I wore it as a sling, which I preferred.
It’s made from offcuts from pack manufacture and has a
waterproof zip and a mesh pocket on the front. I used the latter for
my phone. There’s a key clip and a small compartment inside the bag.
The long strap is adjustable but not removable.
For backpacking and travelling (I used it for phone, keys and wallet
in cafés en route to and from Glen Affric) this is an excellent wee bag.

72 The Great Outdoors July 2023

 trip report Gear

ƊƗŏîÊŅƚƋåųš ăƁăčŠŅƚƋåųš
*price conversion correct in early May
BEST BUY
lightweight, spacious, headroom

Mountain only available from USA

Laurel
Designs Design: pyramid
Material: silpoly
SoloMid XL Pitching: flysheet first
Fabric: 20D silpoly, hydrostatic head 5,000+mm
Pole: trekking pole
Dimensions: 280x142cm, max. height 140cm
mountainlaureldesigns.com

This tent was my Best Buy in June’s Solo Tents review due to the low
weight, roominess, headroom, storm resistance and ease of pitching.
It’s made from silicone polyester rather than silicone nylon which
has the advantage of not stretching when wet. This was a boon the
ĆUVWQLJKWRIWKHWULSDVE\GDZQWKHWHQWZDVVRDNHGZLWKGHZDQG
condensation. Silnylon would have sagged. The silpoly didn’t.
By dawn the dew had frozen. This soon melted once the sun
rose, and the tent dried very quickly. Silpoly is meant to absorb less
moisture than silnylon.
The SoloMid is easy and fast to pitch, not that there was any hurry
on this trip. I didn’t attach guylines to the four tie-outs on the sides,
though I had them with me, and the tent resisted the gusty wind on
WKHVHFRQGQLJKWĆQH-XVWRQHWUHNNLQJSROHLVQHHGHG
I enjoyed the space inside and the wide door, which I never closed
so when I woke during the night I could gaze at the stars. I just used
a groundsheet inside as it was too early in the year for midges.
In summer I’d want a mesh inner tent.

ƊĊŏă îƆăčŠųåčš

RECOMMENDED lightweight, warm, comfortable, recycled fabric

expensive

Therm- Fill: 800- fill Nikwax Hydrophobic Down

Shell: recycled nylon
a-Rest Construction: box wall baffles, heat mapped zoned insulation, quilt
Zip: full-length
{±ųŸåÏƗlj8xěƆ Sizes: small, regular, long
Rating: comfort 0°C, comfort limit -6°C
thermarest.com

With the likelihood of frosty nights I wanted a bag that would keep me
warm a few degrees below freezing. The Parsec 20F seemed a good
FKRLFHDQGVRLWSURYHGWKHĆUVWQLJKWZKHQWKHWHPSHUDWXUH
fell to -2°C. I slept warm without even closing the hood.
The Parsec is designed to attach to a sleeping pad and has two
VWUHWFK\VWUDSVRQWKHXQGHUVLGH,ĆQGGRLQJWKLVUHVWULFWLYHDVLW
prevents me sitting up in the bag so I didn’t use the straps. This wasn’t
a problem as there’s enough room to move around inside. The base has
less insulation than the top but stayed under me both nights. If I’d felt
too hot I’d have turned the bag upside down so the base was on top.
The down is hydrophobic and the foot of the bag did get a little
GDPSWKHĆUVWPRUQLQJZKHQ,SXVKHGLWDJDLQVWWKHZHWWHQWIDEULF
It dried quickly.
The shell fabric is very soft and I found the Parsec really
comfortable and ideal for the conditions. It’s an excellent lightweight
sleeping bag but it is expensive.

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 73

Gear trip report

RECOMMENDED

Primus
Express

ƊĊlj Ɓăč
Therm-a-Rest
NeoAir XTherm NXT
ultralight ƊƗƆlj ĊăăčŠųåčš

needs windshield lightweight, warm, very comfortable

Type: canister-top stove very expensive

Fuel: gas canisters
Dimensions: 115x90mm
Burner diameter: 35mm
Power: 2600W
primusequipment.com
The Express stove is a simple gas burner that’s very light and
FRPSDFW,WIROGVćDWDQGWDNHVXSOLWWOHURRPLQWKHSDFN,
selected it for this trip as I hadn’t used it in a while and wanted
to remind myself how it performs. I used it with the Evernew
and MSR 900ml and 600ml pots that have been favourites for
decades and which have a combined weight of 229 grams plus
a foil windscreen weighing 53 grams. Primus says the narrow
ćDPHLVJRRGIRUZLQGUHVLVWDQFHEXWLQPRUHWKDQDJHQWOH
breeze the windscreen is needed.
The Express doesn’t have a piezo igniter, though one is
available as a standalone extra, which I don’t mind as I’ve
EURNHQPDQ\RIWKHPDQGVRDOZD\VFDUU\D/LJKW0\)LUH
)LUH6WHHOWROLJKWWKHVWRYH
7KHSRWVXSSRUWVORFNLQWRSODFHĆUPO\DQGFRXOGKROGELJ
SRWV+RZHYHUWKHćDPHLVQDUURZDQGFRQFHQWUDWHGDQGVR
best used with smaller pots.
The Express isn’t as powerful as some other gas stoves
but it still boiled water fast enough for me, including on the
frosty morning after being left in the porch all night. It simmers
well too.
Type: air bed
Materials: nylon with reflective inner coating
Dimensions: 183x51cm
Thickness: 7.6cm
Sizes: regular, regular wide, long
R-Value: 7.3
thermarest.com
7KHODWHVWYHUVLRQRIWKH;7KHUPVOHHSLQJSDGLVWKLFNHU
warmer, much less noisy and a touch lighter in weight than the
RULJLQDOYHUVLRQ,WèVWKLFNDQGFRPIRUWDEOHDQGUHDVRQDEO\
light and compact given the warmth. It made for a very
comfortable night’s sleep though I didn’t need such a warm mat
on this trip. With an R-rating of 7.3 this is a mat for the coldest
winter nights as it should be warm down to -32°C, which is
lower than the coldest night ever in the UK. Therm-a-Rest says
it has the best warmth-to-weight ratio of any sleeping pad.
7KLVZDUPWKSHUKDSVMXVWLĆHVWKHYHU\KLJKSULFH)RUPRVW8.
FDPSLQJDOLJKWHUPDWOLNHWKH;/LWHZRXOGEHĆQH
The low weight and high warmth come from its internal
FRQVWUXFWLRQZKLFKKDVWZROD\HUVRIWULDQJXODUEDIćHVSOXV
UHćHFWLYHPDWHULDO7KHEDIćHVDOVRKHOSWKHSDGNHHSLWV
VKDSHGZKHQLQćDWHG
7KH;7KHUPLVTXLFNDQGHDV\WRLQćDWHDQGGHćDWH,IRXQG
LWPRVWFRPIRUWDEOHLI,GLGQèWLQćDWHLWIXOO\DVWKHQ,FRXOGVLQN
a little into it and was in no danger of rolling off.

ƊƗƁţălj ŏƁŏč was useful for protecting against the cold, damp
and hardness when sitting outside the tent and
ultralight, inexpensive, durable, warm during the day as a sit mat. As it can’t be punctured
RECOMMENDED
I’d rather use a closed cell foam mat for this than
very bulky, not very soft
DPDWOLNHWKH;7KHUP7KHUHèVQRQHHGWRFKHFN
underneath for anything sharp; the mat can just be
Type: closed cell foam
Materials:FURVVOLQNHG3ODVWD]RWHSRO\ROHILQIRDP
FKXFNHGRQWKHJURXQG

Multimat Dimensions: 180x50cm

Thickness: 8mm
7KH6XSHUOLWHPDWLVYHU\OLJKWEXWLWèVDOVREXON\
VR,VWUDSSHGLWRQWKHRXWVLGHRIWKHSDFNZKLFK
Rating: -70°C
„ƚŞåųĬĜƋåî multimat.uk.com ZDVFRQYHQLHQWIRUTXLFNDFFHVVDQ\ZD\7KHIRDP
is quite tough so I wasn’t bothered about it being
Given the warmth of the XTherm, I didn’t need this VFUDSHGRQURFNVRUYHJHWDWLRQ,ZRXOGQèWFDUU\
closed cell foam pad for sleeping on. However it DQLQćDWDEOHPDWOLNHWKLVWKRXJK

74 The Great Outdoors July 2023

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2XUZDONVëLVPRQë
1 Ben Chonzie &
10 varied routes
Auchnafree Hill in Scotland, England
South Highlands
and Wales
Stefan Durkacz
In this Lakeland-themed
2 Crummock Water special, our contributors
Lake District have shared some of
their favourite walks in
the Cumbrian fells – from a
James Forrest
long route up the highest
peak in England to quiet
3 Bleaberry Fell/ spots celebrating rewilding
High Seat successes. Of course, we’ve
Lake District also included some walks
from elsewhere in the UK:
Alex Roddie Scottish Munros; hills in Mid
1
4 Dow Crag/The Wales; Dartmoorian day trips;
Old Man of Coniston and moments of coastal magic to
enjoy during the long, light
Lake District
summertime hours.
Francesca Donovan
Norman Hadley
Content Producer
5 Sergeant Man
via Steel Fell
Lake District 3
5
2
Vivienne Crow 6
6 Branstree 7
4
& Selside Pike
Lake District

Ian Battersby
7 Scafell Pike
via Esk Hause
Lake District

Emily Woodhouse

8 Pitch Hill 8
Powys

Roger Butler

9 Bleak House
dartmoor
10
9

Tim Gent

10 Hartland to Bude
Devon/Cornwall

Fiona Barltrop
1 ŏŀĩĵ/ŏƗĵĜĬåŸ/îěŏljĘŅƚųŸ
AscentŏljŀŏĵxƑăƁŀüƋ

Ben Chonzie & Auchnafree Hill

South Highlands SCOTLAND
Stefan Durkacz
tackles the round
of Loch Turret
BEN CHONZIE, or Ben-y-Hone,
isn’t quite the most southerly Munro
but it’s certainly one of the most
popular and accessible. Situated
near the genteel Perthshire town of
Crieff, it’s less than two hours from
Edinburgh and Glasgow. It’s also
one of the easiest Munros, a rather
humdrum half-day wander up and
down the featureless broad back of
the hill from Glen Lednock.
This hardly does it justice
though. The approach from further
Loch Turret reservoir east in Glen Turret shows Ben
from the dam Chonzie in a far more flattering
light: a proud, mysterious and
Ben Chonzie from inviting presence away at the head
Carn Chois of the glen, often sporting snow
around the summit escarpment
well into spring. It’s also less busy.
The classic expedition is a round of
upper Glen Turret, which includes
a bonus Corbett – Auchnafree Hill
– and the bold, rocky top of Carn
Chois. There’s a wonderful sense of
space up here, with the Ben Lawers
range especially well-seen.
At the end of this rugged,
often boggy 12-mile tramp
you’ll be sure to have a far richer
appreciation of this unpretentious
tract of hill country.

Carn Chois and Ben Chonzie Descending to Loch

from the summit of Turret by the
Auchnafree Hill Allt Bhaltair

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 79

 ROUTE
Start/finish car park by Loch Turret
Ú±ĵ±ƋƋĘååĹÚŅüƋĘåŸĜĹčĬåƋų±ÏĩųŅ±Ú
üųŅĵBŅŸĘĹå±ųųĜåý:×ccîƗŏƗƆĊ
NN821264/HDYHWKHFDUSDUN
1 DQGEHDU5SDVWDYHKLFOH
barrier. Walk the short distance up
the tarmacked road to a building by
the east end of the dam. Turn L and
ZDONDFURVVWKHGDPRQDĆUPWUDFN
Reaching the W end of the dam, climb
a metal stile and turn R, following a
rough track that climbs gradually
DFURVVWKHVORSHVDERYH/RFK7XUUHW
After about 1km the track peters out
into a hikers’ path. Follow the
sometimes indistinct path more
GLUHFWO\XSKLOOQRZDFURVVVHYHUDO
small, tumbling burns into a high
grassy corrie. Go through a gap (once
a gate) in a dilapidated fence. Straight
ahead are some minor crags; bear L
XSVWHHSJUDVVWRDYRLGWKHVH$V\RX
reach the crest turn R on a clearer
path that crosses your way. Follow
this for a short way as it skirts the top
RIVWHHSFUDJVDQGVORSHVRYHUORRNLQJ
Loch Turret. After a couple of
hundred metres bear L and head NW
for about 500 metres to reach the
pointed summit of Carn Chois
(768m). The trig point is perched
on a rock outcrop.
2 NN792277 From Carn Chois
GHVFHQG1:VWHHSO\DWĆUVW
VFUDPEOLQJRYHUELJURFNVEHIRUH
picking up the boggy path across the
moor towards the distant brow of
%HQ&KRQ]LH'RGJHDFURVVWKH
peat-hagged col (668m) NW of Carn
Chois. The path becomes drier and
stonier as it crosses Meall Seide
(757m) and onto the long whaleback
OHDGLQJWR%HQ&KRQ]LH)ROORZWKH
broad crest as it dog-legs NE where
the popular route from Glen Lednock
comes in from the E. Large cairns
DORQJWKH1HGJHOLQHWKHĆQDO
DSSURDFKWRWKHWRSRI%HQ&KRQ]LH
(931m) and its sprawling cairn
and windbreak.
:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå0HWUHVDERYHVHDOHYHO
800
600
400
200
0 km 2 4
80 The Great Outdoors July 2023
3
NN773309
3 Descend steeply
NE for around 900 metres
to reach the Bealach na Gaoith.
Turn R and descend with care – the
way is steep, eroded and often
slippery, down a gully enclosed by
crags on either side – but take time
WRHQMR\WKHĆQHYLHZGRZQWKH
length of Loch Turret. Lower down
EXWWKHPRVVFRYHUHGGHEULVIURP
an ancient rockfall, stay on the path
as it bears L and picks up a line of old
wooden fence posts.
4 NN784315 Where the
main path turns R towards
Lochan Uaine, keep following the
fence posts towards the Moine
Bheag. Bear R away from the
IHQFHSRVWVDWRQHSRLQWWRDYRLG
the worst of the peat hags. Climb
the grassy, mossy hillside of
A’ Chairidh opposite, which appears
to be home to a large colony of
moles. Pass to the S of the summit
then descend E below some
outcrops to pick up the ruined fence
again. It crosses just S of a saddle,
worth the slight loss in height to
DYRLGDPD]HRIJOXWLQRXVSHDWKDJV
Keep with the fence on the long,
heathery drag onto the bleak
plateau of Auchnafree Hill.
$V\RXUHDFKOHYHOJURXQGSHHO5
away from the fence posts to locate
WKHFDLUQRIZKLWHTXDUW]LWHURFNV
about 100 metres S of the fence,
that marks the summit of this
humblest of Corbetts.
6 8
Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
4
5
6
2
1
5 NN804307 Continue S for
50 metres or so to reach a
larger grey cairn. From here, a
clear path heads SE. Follow this passable. Follow it downhill to
through a boggy area to reach MRLQWKHWUDFNE\/RFK7XUUHWYLD
ZKDWORRNVOLNHDYHKLFOHWXUQLQJ DFRXSOHRI]LJ]DJVORZHUGRZQ
DUHDH[FDYDWHGLQWKHSHDW)ROORZ Turn L and follow the track for
/DQG5RYHUWUDFNV6DQGGRZQKLOO 2.5km to the dam and car park.
IURPKHUH7KLVHYHQWXDOO\
becomes a proper track that leads
E to a junction.
6 NN812300 At the junction
turn L. Follow the track as it
contours around the headwaters
Further information
RI*LOEHUWèV%XUQDQGRYHUWKH Maps: OS Landranger
shoulder of Ton Eich to the ford sheet 52 (1:50k);
across Allt Bhaltair (Walter’s OS Explorer sheets 379 and
%XUQ /HDYHWKHWUDFNKHUH OL47 (1:25k)
turning R and following the burn
Transport: none to start
downstream. Although the little
glen is narrow, the going is
Information: Perth
generally easy with the R bank of i VisitScotland iCentre
WKHEXUQJLYLQJWKHEHVWJRLQJ (01738 450600)
RYHUDOO$IWHUURXJKO\PHWUHV
DUULYHDWWKHKHDGRIDWUDFN
GLVXVHGDQGUDWKHURYHUJURZQE\
heather and bracken but still
10 12 14 16 18
2 ƗŏţƁĩĵ/ŏƑţăĵĜĬåŸ/îĘŅƚųŸ
AscentŏƑƁƗĵxĊăljŏüƋ

Crummock Water
Lake District ENGLAND
James Forrest
takes in four
Wainwrights on
a high-level loop
CRUMMOCK WATER has always
lived in the shadow of its neighbour
Buttermere. Buttermere is forever
lavished with praise and attention,
whilte poor old Crummock Water
goes somewhat unnoticed and
unloved. But this is an injustice.
Flanked by the shapely outline of
Mellbreak to the west and the
domineering bulk of Grasmoor to
the east, Crummock Water is a
place of beauty and intriguing
Views from Grasmoor dichotomy. With typical wordsmith
flair, Alfred Wainwright described
Crummock Water as “gay with life
and colour” on its eastern shore,
but “where loneliness, solitude and
silence prevail” to the west.
In the absence of an established
high-level horseshoe route around
Crummock Water, I’ve created
one. From Loweswater, climb the
dramatic north ridge of Mellbreak
before looping along the shoreline
for lunch in Buttermere. Then spend
the afternoon ascending Whiteless
Pike, bagging Wandope, standing
atop the mighty Grasmoor, and
completing the circuit via Gasgale
Solitary wild camper
on Wandope Gill and Lanthwaite Wood.

Herdwick sheep
on a lane near
Lanthwaite Green

Bivvying on the
summit of Grasmoor

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 81

 ROUTE
Start/finish ƋĘåƴåųƼŸĵ±ĬĬĬ±ƼÆƼŠŸŞ±ÏåüŅų±üåƵϱųŸ
ŅĹĬƼš±ƋĘƚųÏĘųĜÚčåĜĹXŅƵåŸƵ±Ƌåų:×c¥ŏĊljƗljî
NY140208 Take the road
1 south and pass Kirkgate Farm.
Continue on a walled lane through
ĆHOGVDQGDUULYHDWDJDWH,JQRUHWKH
bridleway veering right and instead
head straight up through trees to
open fellside. At the scree ahead take
an obvious rake, which zig-zags uphill
on steep, eroded ground. This section
is somewhat confusing, with multiple
lines created by walkers. Stick to the
line of a prominent scree chute,
heading generally south-east,
and arrive at the nose of the ridge.
Here a clearer path appears,
ascending south to emerge at the
twin cairns of Mellbreak’s north top.
2 NY143195 Continue south
into the depression, sticking
WRDSDWKRYHUćDWJURXQGEHIRUH
YHHULQJOHIWDQGFOLPELQJEULHć\WR
Mellbreak’s south top. Descend a
good but steep path over grassy
slopes to reach a fence to the south of
Scale Knott. Cross the fence and take
a trod south-west, trending right to
avoid steeper ground and arrive at
the bridleway alongside Black Beck.
3 NY148173 Turn left onto the
bridleway. Veer left at a fork
and descend east. Pass to the left of a
footbridge and join a path continuing
east alongside Scale Beck. Turn right
over a footbridge and go through a
gap in a wall. Go through a gate and
cross another footbridge to emerge
at the lakeshore. Head south-east,
crossing a series of footbridges.
Beyond the southern tip of the lake,
follow Buttermere Dubs, turn left
across Scale Bridge, and head
QRUWKHDVWRQDODQHWKURXJKĆHOGV
Go through a kissing gate, turn left
and enter Buttermere village.
4 NY175169 Next to the Bridge
Hotel, turn left on the road
:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level
800
600
400
200
0
0 km 2 4
82 The Great Outdoors July 2023
1
2
3
before immediately
turning right through a gate
into Ghyll Wood, next to a National
Trust sign. Head north-east on a
path meandering above Mill Beck.
Climb steps to cross a wall and
emerge onto open fellside. Turn
left momentarily and then right
up a narrow trod heading north.
Reach a wider path and turn right,
ascending to merge with the main
footpath. Climb steadily to the west
of Whiteless Breast and continue
north as the terrain steepens.
Press on over intermittent stone
pitching, exposed bedrock and a
ĆQDOSXOORQORRVHVFUHHWRVXPPLW
Whiteless Pike.
5 NY180189 'HVFHQGEULHć\
before climbing steeply
north-north-east up Whiteless
Edge. Beyond the ridge’s nose, veer
right at two forks and head east for
Wandope’s summit. Turn left and
head north along the cliffs above
Addacomb Hole. Turn left on a faint
trod that cuts a corner to join a
stony track. Turn left and climb
steeply to a prominent cairn.
6 8 10
Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
Continue west
over the plateau top
to summit Grasmoor. Head east
on a trod above Dove Crags. Veer
left and descend steeply north-east
to rejoin a good footpath. Turn left,
cross a stream and arrive at
Coledale Hause.
6 NY188211 At a large cairn,
turn left and descend west
along Gasgale Gill, taking care
where the path is eroded and
unstable. After passing around a
rock face, veer right to take a higher
path traversing above Liza Beck.
6FUDPEOHEULHć\RYHUDURFN\
outcrop and contour around the
base of Whin Ben. Drop down left
to cross a footbridge. Head
south-west to the road. Climb the
steps over a wall, take the lane
through Lanthwaite Green Farm,
go through two gates and arrive at
Lanthwaite Wood. Turn left on a
track that swings north-west and
12 14 16
5
4
arrives at a car park. Turn left
on the road, cross Scalehill
Bridge, and head south-west
back into Loweswater.
Further information
Maps: OS Explorer OL4
(1:25k), OS Landranger
89 (1:50k), Harvey Maps
UltraMap XT40 Lake District
North (1:40k)
Transport: no bus services
direct to the start of the
walk, but the 77/77A Honister
Rambler connects Keswick
with Buttermere (summer
timetable only)
Information:
i visitlakedistrict.com
18 20 22
3 ŏăţăĩĵ/ŀţƆĵĜĬåŸ/ĊěăĘŅƚųŸ
AscentƆăîĵxƗŏăŀüƋ

Bleaberry Fell & High Seat

Lake District ENGLAND
Alex Roddie
takes in some of
WKH/DNHVèĆQHVW
viewpoints
THE LAKE DISTRICT is a place of
huge variety, encompassing fells,
moorland, woods, lakes and a long
history of human habitation – and
some of the finest walks embrace
this variety. Keswick is one of the
most popular centres for walking
in the Lakes. Whilst Skiddaw and
Blencathra are there to scratch the
itch for big, impressive mountains,
lower fells to the east of Derwent
Looking over
Derwent Water from Water still have plenty to offer
the landing stages – including, arguably, views that
are just as good but require less
effort. This circuit takes in Walla
Crag, with its superb views out over
the lake, then heads for the moors
before reaching Bleaberry Fell and
continuing to High Seat. The return
journey is just as interesting. After
crossing Dodd, there is a steep
descent to the edge of the lake, and
then pleasant easy walking through
lakeside woods back to the start.
This varied walk from Keswick
takes in some of the finest
viewpoints in the north Lakes – as
well as two Wainwrights for those
The view to bagging their way around the
Skiddaw on the
way through national park’s high places.

Regenerating The panorama from

woodland at Walla Crag is one of the
Walla Crag best in the north Lakes

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 83

 2
1

ROUTE

Start/finish Derwent Water

Lakeside Car Park :×c¥ƗƆƆƗƑlj
NY266230 Starting from the
1 car park, take the path heading
SE beside Cockshot Wood, then
cross the B5289 and walk through
Castlehead Wood, climbing left of
the hill summit.
2 NY272229 Join a tarmac lane
and turn right, heading away
from the town. After about 800m
the lane ends at a small tea room.
Take the path continuing SE through
woodland, which soon begins to
climb to the right of a stream, gently
DWĆUVWDQGWKHQVWHHSO\
3 NY283223 Where the path
joins a lane, turn right and
follow it for 200m until past a farm,
and then cross a footbridge to take
the footpath climbing almost due S
on the left-hand side of a wall.
4
'RQèWPLVWDNHWKHĆUVWVXPPLWIRU
the Wainwright’s true top. There is
10 5
an unmarked rocky prominence
after 1km; the true summit is
DQRWKHUNPEH\RQGWKLVRYHUćDW
WHUUDLQDWĆUVWEHIRUHDPXFK
steeper section with some rocky
and eroded ground underfoot.
6 NY286196 From the summit
of Bleaberry Fell (590m,
substantial cairn / wind shelter) the 6
views are excellent and extensive, 9
particularly out over Derwent
Water and north to Skiddaw.
It is one of the easiest Wainwrights
in the area to climb, and its
8
well-deserved popularity means
that there are likely to be others on
the summit enjoying the view.
Continue on a path, heading SE

4 NY279215 The gradient eases

as the path approaches a wall.
Do not continue left of the wall;
instead, head through the gap and
follow an undulating path that winds
its way between stands of woodland,
with excellent views down to
Derwent Water and north to
Keswick, Skiddaw, and Blencathra.
The summit of Walla Crag, at 379m,
is soon reached. Continue past the
rocky summit area with cairn to
rejoin the original path on the other
side of the wall.
5 NY276211 A clear trail
now heads almost due south
WRZDUGV%OHDEHUU\)HOOåbDWĆUVW
DOPRVWćDWEHIRUHJUDGXDOO\
steepening. Some sections of this
path were repaired in recent years,
making the going a lot easier
over areas of peat bog and helping
DWĆUVWEHIRUHYHHULQJGXH6
There is a gentle descent followed
E\DODUJHO\ćDWVHFWLRQZLWKPLQRU
undulations and hummocks. A few
pools and minor streams are passed.
Although the path is generally clear,
some sections are boggy in all but
the driest weather.
7 NY287180 After about
NPWKHUHLVDĆQDOVKRUW
ascent leading to the twin top of
High Seat (608m). Low outcrops
protrude through the heather. In
mist, don’t confuse the eastern top
(Man) for the summit. Although
there is a cairn, the true summit is
topped by a trig pillar and is a short
distance to the SW. After taking in
the moorland ambiance, descend
NW on a good path that sticks to a
vague ridge SW of Ashness Gill.
7
steepens and veers right towards
the gill before curving back left
again. The way down continues
steeply until it reaches the road.
9 NY270196 Turn right, Further information
cross Ashness Bridge,
and then almost immediately
Maps: OS Explorer
OL4 (1:25k), OS
take a footpath on the right-hand
Landranger sheet 90 (1:50k),
side of the road. Do not taking
Harvey British Mountain Map
the rising fork; take the line Lake District (1:40k)
descending slightly. Continue
through woods for 1.6km until
reaching a crossroads, then go
Transport: Keswick is
amply served by buses.
left to rejoin the road. The walk can easily be begun
from Keswick town centre
10 NY270211 Turn right.
A path breaks off from the instead of the Lakeside Car Park
road and continues around the
Information: visitkeswick.
edge of Derwent Water, passing
through a marshy woodland called
i com 017687 75738

to prevent further erosion.

8 NY278189 At a minor top,
Dodd, the descent suddenly The Ings to return to the car park.

:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level

600

400

200

0
0 km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

84 The Great Outdoors July 2023 Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
4 ŏƗţƆĩĵ/ƁţîĵĜĬåŸ/ăĘŅƚųŸ
AscentîƗljĵxƗƆŀljüƋ

Dow Crag & The Old Man of

Coniston Lake District ENGLAND
Coniston Old Man
is a classic for
good reason, says
Norman Hadley
WITH A MODICUM of
deviousness, you can sneak up
on The Old Man of Coniston
from the back, avoiding the
busy, stony zigzags coming from
Low Water. Better yet, you can
include Dow Crag (nominated
by Wainwright as one of his six
finest summits) as a preamble,
approached from the delightful
valley of Torver Beck.
Blind Tarn and This short loop has it all: a
Brown Pike shy valley full of gorse flower
and birdsong, interesting quarry
workings, a surprising (and illicit)
waterfall, a curious beehive shelter,
a mildly scrambly summit, a
bird’s-eye circuit of Goat’s Water
and an almost certainly deserted
descent of one of Lakeland’s most
frequently-climbed fells.
And if you’re wondering what
constitutes an “illicit” waterfall,
this rather pretty example was
apparently created in the late Fifties
A morning cloud by some wayward schoolboys
inversion seen from mucking about with a mattock.
Coniston Old Man

Banishead Quarry
and the “illicit”
waterfall

Looking to
the Low Water
zig-zags from
Coniston Old Man

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 85


ROUTE
Start/finish XĜƋƋĬåeųųŅƵĹå±ų‰Ņųƴåų
:ׄ%Ɨŀljŀălj
SD290950 Start at Little
1 Arrow. If you are arriving by
car, park sensitively: there are a
couple of laybys but the one closer
to Little Arrow is right next to some
houses so it’s as well to seek
permission from the residents.
The one towards Coniston village
is opposite High Ground farm, so be
mindful of gates and turning tractors.
Go up the drive through the little
cluster of cottages, emboldened
E\WKH3XEOLF)RRWSDWKVLJQ7KH
driveway swings left, leading to a
cattle grid and stile. Gain the fell
path up a narrow dell and through
another gate. You’ll soon be
established on a good path on
DVKHOIDERYH7RUYHU%HFN7KH
URXWHĆQGLQJJRLQJXSLV
straightforward, but take careful
note of two paths joining you
obliquely from your right as these
can be confusing on the return leg.
2 SD280958 Ignore the
bridleway joining from your
OHIW3DVVWRWKHOHIWRIDVL]DEOHVSRLO
heap. The scenery is a lot prettier
than that sounds. Soon you’ll skirt
WKHIHQFHGRIISRRORI%DQLVKHDG
Quarry. This is an impressive crater
with (in sunny weather) a bright blue
eye of water inside, backed by the
waterfall. Take the path through
the bracken, parallel to the beck,
to join the Walna Scar road just
EHORZ&RYH%ULGJH ODEHOOHG7RUYHU
%ULGJHRQWKH26PDS 
:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level
800
600
400
200
0
0 km 2 4
86 The Great Outdoors July 2023
4
SD273964 Turn left on
3 the Walna Scar Road, over
the bridge and zig-zag up past
the curious beehive shelter to the
high col.
4 SD258965 Turn hard right at
the watershed and follow the
ZHOOGHĆQHGULGJHRYHU%URZQ3LNH
DQG%XFN3LNHWRWKHWKULOOLQJWXUUHW
of Dow Crag itself. The downward
glances to Goat’s Water are
impressive, as are the rearward
SURVSHFWVRI%OLQG7DUQDQGWKHELJ
seascapes beyond the Duddon
Sands. Keep heading north on an
easy-to-follow path down to Goat’s
Hause. From the hause, take the
right of three forking paths curving
up rightwards to the distinctive top
of the Old Man himself, with his trig
point and pedestalled cairn.
5 SD272978 Your navigation
skills will need to be on point
for this next section. Head south
and look for a thin trod in the grass,
ZKLFKEHFRPHVPRUHGHĆQHGDIWHU
a couple of minutes, sticking to the
south ridge of the fell. This then
softens to a rounded fellside, with a
6 8
Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
5
6
3
2
1
thin trod zigzagging down.
In general, the trend is south-
eastwards, with more leftward
zigging than rightward zagging, if
that helps. As an ascent, this is one
of Wainwright’s favourite quiet
alternative routes. It’s also one of
mine. Just be aware that, when
descending, there are crags and Further information
quarries, especially on the right. Maps: OS Explorer OL6
(1:25k), Harvey Ultra Map
6 SD282968 If your navigation
is sound, you’ll arrive back Lake District West (1:40k)
RQWKH:DOQD6FDU5RDGE\%RR
Transport: The X7 or
Tarn, at the bottom of a steep
quarry road. Turn right and follow X12 bus services will
get you to Torver
the Walna Scar Road until you
can see a good path leading down
Information:
WKURXJKWKHEUDFNHQWR%DQLVKHDG i visitlakedistrict.com
Quarry and your return leg. 01539 822222
Just be aware of the false tracks
mentioned in step 1.
10 12
5 ŏăţƑĩĵ/ŀţăĵĜĬåŸ/ăţƑĘŅƚųŸ
AscentîĊîĵxƗƁîljüƋ

Sergeant Man via Steel Fell

Lake District ENGLAND
Easedale Tarn
On the climb to Steel Fell,
looking across Dunmail Raise
towards the Helvellyn range
Surround yourself
with fells,
recommends
Vivienne Crow
A LAKELAND ‘hug’ rewards those
prepared for complicated route-
finding on this hike to the hub of
fell country. Stand on Sergeant Man,
near the centre of the Lake District’s
‘wheel’ of mountains, and perform a
360-degree turn. All around, as far as
the eye can see, hills march off into
the distance. There are few summits
that provide such a palpable sense of
being enfolded. To reach the 736m
(2414ft) summit of Sergeant Man,
this route first climbs Steel Fell’s
southern ridge – a satisfying
approach, mostly on grass but with
the occasional rock outcrop to add
interest and adrenaline – before
heading out across lonely, boggy
country enlivened by the presence
of small, sparkling tarns. For
Wainwright-baggers, Calf Crag is
the next of four ticks you can add to
your list today. Soon heading off the
beaten track again, an intermittent
trail leads up past Codale Head to
reach Sergeant Man before the
descent along Blea Rigg then down
past Easedale Tarn and the tumbling
waterfalls of Sourmilk Gill.

The partially forested slopes on

Stickle Tarn can be seen the eastern side of Thirlmere
from the Blea Rigg path lead up to Helvellyn

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 87

 ROUTE
Start/finish Layby set back from
ųŅ±ÚŅĹ屟ƋåųĹŸĜÚåŅüeăŀŏØƗţŏĩĵ
ŸŅƚƋĘŅü%ƚĹĵ±ĜĬ±ĜŸå:×c¥ƑƑăljŀƆ
NY335096 Walk north
1 beside the busy A591 for
PWKHQWDNHWKHĆUVWURDGRQWKH
left. Immediately after crossing a
bridge, turn right up a lane. At the top,
go through the gate onto National
Trust land.
2 NY329098 Almost
immediately, leave the track by
bearing right – on a grassy route
climbing through the bracken. It
follows the line of the wall on the
ULJKWDWĆUVWODWHUSDVVLQJWKURXJKD
gate in it. Soon after a kissing- gate,
the path steepens and climbs around
WKHVLGHRIWKHĆUVWRIVHYHUDOVPDOO
crags. There is some rocky ground on
the way up, but hands aren’t required.
On reaching a small cairn with a rusty
fencepost sticking out of it, you get
\RXUĆUVWJORULRXVYLHZWRWKHQRUWK
Thirlmere, Skiddaw and Blencathra
are the most obvious features. Bear
left to cross to the larger cairn
marking Steel Fell’s true summit.
3 NY319111 Descend on a clear
path with the fence on your
right. Stay roughly parallel with the
fence, crossing some damp ground,
until it makes a sharp right turn. The
path and fence now part company;
RXUURXWHKHDGLQJZHVWDWĆUVWDORQJ
the southern side of the ridge. Pass to
the right of a rocky knoll and then to
the left of a series of small, shallow
tarns. Since the top of Steel Fell,
you’ve been following a sporadic line
of old fenceposts but, about 140m
beyond the little tarns, as the path
becomes less distinct, swing away
from them slightly. Head south-west,
picking up a path that stays about
100m south-east of the fenceposts.
The path becomes more obvious as it
begins climbing again (south-south-
ZHVW ,WSDVVHVWRWKHOHIWRIWKHĆUVW
obvious hillock on the far side of the
:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level
600
400
200
0
0 km 2 4
88 The Great Outdoors July 2023
5
boggy area and then climbs to the
cairn on Calf Crag.
4 NY301104 Turn right, later
reaching a path junction
marked by a cairn at the head of Far
Easedale. Go straight across
(south-west), following a line of
rusty fenceposts. You’ll know when
you’ve reached Codale Head
because a wonderful panorama of
mountains suddenly appears ahead,
including the Coniston Fells, Crinkle
Crags, Bow Fell and, in a few more
strides, Scafell Pike. Closer in – just
270m to the south-west – is the
distinctive summit of Sergeant Man.
Make your way towards this and
clamber to the top.
5 NY286089 Drop back to the
base of the rocky dome and
follow a path generally south-east
onto Blea Rigg, enjoying a superb
view of Pavey Ark, Harrison Stickle
and Stickle Tarn to the right. Keep to
6 8
Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
4
7
6
high ground as much as possible.
6 NY303078 Having walked
2.2km from Sergeant Man,
immediately after dropping from
the rocks at Blea Rigg’s highest
point, take the faint trail north
DFURVVDćDWJUDVV\DUHD7KLVVRRQ
descends more steeply (north-
east), later making directly for
Easedale Tarn.
7 NY308085 On reaching a
junction with a clear path
just above the tarn, turn right.
Keep right as a trail goes left
towards the outlet stream. The
clear path later descends beside
the waterfalls of Sourmilk Gill.
8 NY324083 When you drop
on to a track in the valley
bottom, cross the tiny beck and
immediately go through the
left-hand of the two gates to
follow a path downstream beside
Easedale Beck.
10
3
2
1
8
9
NY330081 Turn right along
9
the road on the edge of
Grasmere. In 190m, take the lane
on the left. At a T-junction, turn
right, crossing Low Mill Bridge
over the River Rothay. Go left at
the main road; the layby where you
started is 410m ahead on the right.
Further information
Maps: OS Explorers OL5,
OL6 and OL7 (1:25k),
OS Landranger 90 (1:50k),
Harvey 1:25,000 Superwalker
Lake District West
Transport: bus 555
(Lancaster/Kendal
to Keswick)
Information: lakedistrict.
i gov.uk 0845 901 0845
12 14
6 ŏăţƁĩĵ/ŀţîĵĜĬåŸ/ăţăĘŅƚųŸ
AscentƆljljĵxŏŀƁljüƋ

Branstree & Selside Pike

Lake District ENGLAND
Ian Battersby
pans for gold in
lesser spotted
Swindale
SWINDALE is a dinky dale hiding
in the far east of the Lake District.
Famed peaks are absent, so you’ll
likely be wearing a greedy grin at
not having to share the towering
crags that lead up to forgotten fells
such as Branstree and Selside Pike.
They are ideal stages for viewing
the grandeur of Mardale Head,
Swindale Beck High Street and Swindale.
Yet the dale itself steals much of
the limelight. Swindale Beck was
Riggindale from the
Branstree ridge
uncurled over 200 years ago to aid
farming efficiency; but the resulting
amplified flow led to downstream
flooding, whilst scoured banks lost
vital niches for invertebrates, bird life
and fish. Now the river has been
re-wiggled thanks to the RSPB et al.
In return it delivers gold better than
that which twinkles from a pan.
Salmon have spawned here for the
first time in 200 years and pollinators
buzz through meadows luxuriant
with the scent of wild flowers, whilst
dodging a diverse array of avian
hunters. It makes for a wonderful
walk along lively waterfalls and
through wooded hillsides.

Swindale from
Black Bells on
'UDJRQć\DW0RVHGDOH Selside

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 89

 ROUTE
Start/finish Last parking area
ŅĹ„ƵĜĹÚ±ĬåX±Ĺå:×c¥ăƗƗŏĊƗ
NY522142 Park at the last
1 parking area (helpfully
signposted), which is overlooked by
Bewbarrow Crag, and head S into the
narrowing dale along the singletrack
Swindale Lane. The lane curves SW
after passing Swindale Foot farm
house, passing occasional buildings,
approaching the river close to a dam
and arriving at Truss Gap farm
shortly after the dam.
2 NY515132 Just before the
farm go through a gate on the
left and cross the river using the
stepping stones. There is a footbridge
downstream if the river is up. Follow
the stony track SE for a short distance
WRWKHĆUVWOHIWKDQGEHQG/HDYHWKH
track here, taking a minor path S and
climbing to a wall corner. Follow the
path that shadows the intake wall
SW contouring above the coils of
Swindale Beck and passing through
PDJQLĆFHQWZRRGHGKLOOVLGH
following occasional guiding arrows,
beneath Gouther and Outlaw Crags.
The path turns steadily S, passing
The Knott to reach a footbridge
over Mosedale Beck beneath its
lively waterfalls.
3 NY506116 Cross the bridge
and head SW to reach a
bridleway. Turn left along the
bridleway, climbing generally SE up
100m of steep grassy bank, which
opens into the hanging valley of
Mosedale above, a much gentler
landscape of rounded fells, covered
with golden grasses, more akin to
Pennine hills. Continue S along the
bridleway, which occasionally frays
through more challenging boggy,
tussocky ground, passing Nabs Moor
and approaching Ash Knott, where
a path forks right, dropping to
Mosedale Beck. Take the left fork
here, continuing to contour above
Mosedale Beck, slowly turning SW to
:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level
600
400
200
0 km 2 4
90 The Great Outdoors July 2023
1
reach Mosedale Cottage. Pass left
of the house and continue along the
bridleway as it climbs SW before
bending W. At altitude 500m head
WNW across open country to meet 2
a wall corner at altitude 575m.
Follow this NW on an unmarked
path climbing to the broad summit 6
of Branstree at 713m. Scout
clockwise round the top for views
DURXQG0DUGDOH+HDGĆQLVKLQJDW
a prominent cairn atop Artle Crag.
4 NY480102 Again no path is
shown on OS maps, but a
3
fence drops NE down the gentle 5
gradients of this grassy ridge,
passing standard cairns
and an old survey pillar,
skirting below an
intervening,
unnamed top,
4
before turning
NNE to reach the
summit of Selside
Pike, and an easy
path follows this
fence. From Selside
Pike the path leaves the
fence behind, continuing
NE, to reach the top of the
crags that tumble into Swindale.
The bird’s eye view of the valley is
spectacular. This and the far side of
the dale are dominated by imposing
crags that rise over sylvan slopes
and the coiling river, and the valley Church – its remains, along with
sweeps NE towards hazy Pennine the village, lie submerged after the
rolling ridges. Follow the edge NW construction of Haweswater Further information
to the top of Selside End. Reservoir. Follow the grassy
Maps: OS Explorer OL5
bridleway NE to a wall corner
5 NY493115 The path drops N
down Selside End to a saddle above woods.
(1:25k), OS Landranger
90 (1:50k)
where it meets the Old Corpse
Road bridleway, so named after its
6 NY501127 From the top of
WKHZRRGV]LJ]DJ1(WKHQ6 Transport: None to start
use to transport the dead from then SE down to the terminus of
Mardale to Shap prior to permission Swindale Lane at Swindale Head Information: tinyurl.com/
being given to Mardale Church to Farm. Follow the lane NE to Truss i GoKeswick 0845 901 0845
bury its own dead from 1736. Don’t Gap then retrace steps along the
bother trying to spot Mardale lane to return to the parking area.
6 8 10 12 14 16
Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
7 ŏƑţăĩĵ/îţăĵĜĬåŸ/ƁĘŅƚųŸ
AscentŀăljĵxƑŏljljüƋ

Scafell Pike
Lake District ENGLAND
Emily Woodhouse
takes a long – and
more interesting –
route up England’s
highest mountain
SO YOU WANT to go up Scafell
Pike to stand on the highest point
in England, but you want to make a
day of it on a full mountain outing
that takes in more of the Lake
District’s beautiful fells. You’re not
scared of doubling the amount of
distance you must walk uphill to
get there – in fact, that sounds like
your idea of fun.
Ascending towards I have heard this route described
Ruddy Gill as a monster. Personally, I find it a
very pleasant day out – albeit long
– that happens to take in Scafell
Pike. If your only objective is to
stand on the highest summit in
England then there are far more
straightforward ways to do it.
But if you want ridges, gullies,
gills and tarns then look no further
than the Corridor Route.
As this is a very full day out,
it’s important to start early to
provide as much chance as
possible to complete it in daylight.
Although much of the route is on
a clear path, it is easy to lose the
The view back
cairns between Esk Hause and
towards Borrowdale Scafell Pike in bad weather.

Borrowdale with Ruddy

Gill in the foreground
Photo: Shutterstock

An aerial view of
Scafell Pike’s summit

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 91

 1
ROUTE

Start/finish {±ųĩĜĹčĬ±ƼěÆƼ±Ƌ„å±ƋĘƵ±ĜƋåŠƋĘåųåĵ±ƼÆå
åƻƋų±ĀåĬÚޱųĩĜĹč±ƴ±ĜĬ±ÆĬåĜĹŸƚĵĵåųš:×c¥ƗƑăŏƗŏ

NY235121 From the end

1 of the road, walk through 2
Seathwaite Farm and out along
a track, following the main river
along the bottom of the valley.
7KHZD\LVIDLUO\ćDWFURVVLQJDIHZ
small streams coming off the fells
to your left.

2 NY234109 In the shadow of

Glaramara’s black crags, the
path takes you to Stockley Bridge 5
– a Grade II listed stone bridge,
part of an old packhorse route.
Cross it and, through the gate on
the other side, turn immediately
left, following the drystone wall
uphill beside Grains Gill. As the
wall drops away, stick to the path,
climbing higher and higher into the 3
fells. It is well-made with couple of
big steps, narrowing towards
Ruddy Gill. The way opens out of
the gill to meet the main path
between Sprinkling and Styhead
Tarns. After walking south-east
on this path for only 100 metres, 4
take the path bearing right and
uphill towards Esk Hause.

3 NY232080 At the col,

hopefully with grand views FODPEHUXSWKHĆQDOURFN\VORSH exposed in places, and involves a
down towards Eskdale, you should onto Scafell Pike. very small section where hands Further information
see the craggy top of Esk Pike to on rock are required.
your left and the way ahead to your
4 NY214072 After summit
Maps: OS Explorers

right: Ill Crag, Broad Crag and

maybe even a glimpse of what’s
behind. The path initially is not
very obvious, but head for the col
below Great End and follow the
line of cairns – these lead all the
way to Scafell Pike. Cross the
ERXOGHUĆHOGVRQWKHćDQNVRI
Ill Crag and Broad Crag, then
descend a disappointing distance
to the col – bracing for loose
ground underfoot and a possible
wind funnel in the middle. Then
VHOĆHVDQGSDFNHGOXQFKLQ
the shelter, descend north-west
(may need a bearing in cloud)
to pick up a well-worn path
downhill. Beware steep crags
in all directions not on a path.
Just before Lingmell Col, a path
splits off right. Take it and traverse
around the top of Piers Gill, an
impressive scar in the landscape.
This is the start of the Corridor
Route, a high-level contour path
that traverses around the foot
of Great End. It is steep and
5 NY221094 The Corridor
Route drops you off on the
open hillside before Styhead Tarn.
Walk up the grassy slopes until you
can see the tarn and the clear path
that at curves around its western
bank. Follow this path to the
footbridge across Styhead Gill
then, crossing, onwards beside
the river and ever downhill.
The path scoops around the edge
of the woodland and steeply back
down towards Stockley Bridge.
Retrace your steps to the car park.
OL4 & OL6 (1:25k),
OS Landranger 90 (1:50k),
Harvey British Mountain Map
Lake District (1:40k)
Transport: trains to
Windermere then
Bus 555 to Keswick and 78
to Seatoller. The most direct
route is then to walk down the
narrow road to Seathwaite
Information: lakedistrict.
i gov.uk, 01539 724555

:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level

1000
800
600
400
200
0
0 km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14

92 The Great Outdoors July 2023 Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
8 ŏîţăĩĵ/ŏŏţăĵĜĬåŸ/ƁĘŅƚųŸ
AscentƆƁăĵxƗƗŏăüƋ

Llangunllo & Pitch Hill

Powys WALES
Roger Butler
wriggles his way
through the
Welsh Borders
NO MATTER how many times
you might have walked in the Welsh
Marches, there’s always more to
explore amongst the steeply rolling
contours that hug the Heart of Wales
line. The railway enables fine linear
walks and this energetic route, partly
Looking west along following breezy Glyndwr’s Way,
Cwm Gilla near the
start of the walk snakes its way between the border
town of Knighton and the toy-town
station at Llanbister Road. It is the
The view east into Cwm
ideal route upon which to wriggle
Gilla from Glyndwr’s Way
your way through the Welsh borders.
AE Housman famously wrote
about these blue remembered hills,
where drovers once crossed these
whaleback ridges, and their old
tracks encourage swift progress.
A green bridleway twists up Pitch
Hill, where an exultation of skylarks
provides a musical score to wide
panoramic views into Mid Wales.
Beyond Bleddfa, a sharp and
unexpected escarpment tumbles
from a strange azure-blue pool
before the day finishes with a
20-minute train ride back to the start
– just remember to stick your hand
out to ensure the train stops!

St Michael’s Pool – one of

very few lakes in this part The lower slopes of
of Wales – nestles in the Pool Hill, with Cnwch
hills to the west of Bleddfa Bank on the left

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 93

 ROUTE
Start UĹĜčĘƋŅĹų±ĜĬƵ±ƼŸƋ±ƋĜŅĹŠüųååޱųĩĜĹčš
:ׄkƗŀljƁƗƑ
Finish XĬ±ĹÆĜŸƋåųŅ±ÚŸƋ±ƋĜŅĹGR: „kŏƁĊƁŏƆ
8
SO290723 From the railway
1 station at Knighton, follow
Glyndwr’s Way through the town and
pass the Offa’s Dyke Centre on the
right (with excellent information and
displays – but check opening times).
Cross the B4355, fork left and at
the end of the houses go right on
a narrow path. Continue on a grass
SDWKDURXQGWKHORZHUćDQNVRI
Garth Hill, through some low trees,
to reach a minor lane.
2 SO268722 Go across and fork
left (now back on Glyndwr’s
Way) and follow the track, past the
house named Ebrandy, towards the
top of Downes’s Dingle, with good
views back to Knighton and south
into wooded Cwm Gilla. Continue
past a pond to a junction of tracks
– turn left here to carry on over the
open hill, with big skies, on the old
drovers’ track. Go straight over the
next junction after 1.2km.
3 SO240715 Follow Glyndwr’s
Way markers – the way ahead
:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level
400
300
200
100
0 km 2 4
94 The Great Outdoors July 2023
4 3
twists and turns through trees and
bushes – to cross a valley towards
farm buildings and the quiet lane
at Cefn-suran. Fork right through
trees after 20m and continue via
several small gates in a shallow
valley to cross a narrow lane
with trees ahead. Bear slightly left
and walk downhill through the
wood. Continue steeply ahead
into a small open valley where
the path veers right to the rear
of a row of houses. Keep on the
path to descend to the lane.
4 SO212712 Turn right
(the village pub called The
Greyhound is a little further up
the lane – but check its limited
opening times) and then turn sharp
left at a bridleway gate opposite
WKHYLOODJHKDOO*RWKURXJKWKHĆUVW
gate on the right, turn left by some
barns and take the grass track
up to a gate in trees on the left.
Walk steeply uphill to another gate,
then look for markers to pass
6 8
Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
2 1
through three more gates. Follow
the fence to another gate, close to
the broad top of Pitch Hill.
5 SO211697 Continue to
the next gate and turn
immediately right via another gate.
Bear left over the hill and after a
couple of gates descend towards
an isolated clump of forestry.
Go right, take a gate on the left
and descend to a footbridge
leading into the hamlet of Bleddfa
(the pub is currently closed).
6 SO207683 Turn right at
the lane and fork left after
500m, by large barns. Continue
on a good broad track up the valley,
fork left at cottages and keep
ahead for 1km to pass the isolated
St Michael’s Pool on right.
7 SO183698 Reach the top
of a long gorse-splattered
escarpment, with panoramic
views, and descend steeply around
a zig-zag on the track into the next
valley. Continue on to a junction
10 12 14
and take the tarmac lane to the
farm named The Rhos. Go through
a gate on the right and follow
markers down to the next lane.
Turn right for 100m to reach
Llanbister Road railway station
for the return to Knighton.
8 SO174716The most
convenient departure is
around 17.15pm but you’re likely to
be alone on the platform; stick your
hand out to ensure the train stops!
Further information
Maps OS Explorers
200 & 201 (1:25k);
OS Landranger 148 (1:50k)
Transport Heart of Wales
line to Knighton:
heart-of-wales.co.uk
Information Offa’s Dyke
i Centre, Knighton
01547 528753
16 18
9 ŏƗţƑĩĵ/ƁţƆĵĜĬåŸ/ĊěăĘŅƚųŸ
AscentƑĊŀĵxŏŏĊăŏüƋ

Bleak House
Dartmoor ENGLAND
Tim Gent visits a
remote ruin where
a German spy
may have hidden
DARTMOOR has experienced
various attempts to strip it of its
assets over the years. Swathes of peat
have been dug up and hauled away.
The remains of these endeavours are
still visible, and one of the most
enigmatic is Bleak House. A license
to extract peat near Great Links Tor
Crossing the Lyd was granted in 1878. A year later,
The Rattlebrook Peat Works had
installed a railway and drying kilns,
and built a home for the manager.
Early photos show an imposing
dwelling, built using local granite.
Despite the investment in time and
money, the works never flourished.
The rails for the railway were lifted in
1932, and the army soon demolished
the drying buildings. At some point,
the crumbling remains of the
manager’s home became known as
Bleak House. All Dartmoor features
carry a tale of course, and during
World War One, Bleak House was
said to have been the hiding place
of a German spy. The fact that the
works employed a scientist called
Muller may provide a rather less
Bray Tor (aka Brat Tor) sensational explanation.

Approaching
Bleak House Bleak House

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 95


1
ROUTE
Start/finish: The car park to the east of
Dartmoor Inn, Lydford :ׄ£ăƗƗîăƗ
SX522852 Follow a broad
1 track north-east from the car
park, crossing the Lyd either at the
ford or the pedestrian bridge just
upstream. A clear path should be
visible climbing to Bray Tor (Brat Tor
on later OS sheets) with its
distinctive stone cross.
2 SX539857 Head east from
Bray Tor to cross Doetor
Brook, before turning south-east to
climb gently to Sharp Tor (there are
no visible paths on this section).
3 SX550849 Continuing
south-east beyond Sharp Tor,
\RXZLOOĆQGWKHQDUURZEXWTXLWH
deep remains of a miners’ track.
Follow this as it drops gently
downhill and through old
mining earthworks.
:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level
500
400
300
200
0
0 km 2 4
96 The Great Outdoors July 2023
2
SX559847 Beyond the
4 derelict earthworks, leave the
miners’ track, which continues
downhill to cross the Rattle Brook.
Instead, keep fairly high on the
valley side to head upstream. As the
valley side steepens, drop down
closer to the stream, negotiating
more tin mining scars, to climb to
the remains of Bleak House. After
an exploration, continue beyond to
ĆQGDJRRGWUDFNWKDWKHDGVQRUWKWR
meet another track, the line of the
old peat works railway.
SX559871 Turn left onto the
5 track, but only for a short
distance to avoid the worst of the
wet ground around the infant Rattle
Brook. Turn right off the track to
climb gently improving ground that
6 8
Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
6
3
4
lifts to Hunt Tor, before following Nodden Gate, where you follow
the remains of a derelict track FOHDUIRRWSDWKVLJQVDFURVVĆHOGV
(more of a broad, grassy path) past to the south and a laddered stile.
Green Tor and down to cross the Turn right onto the track beyond
tiny Lyd and meet a good track – the stile, which leads back to the
the old railway line – where you car park.
turn right.
6 SX548883 At any point
beyond the Lyd where the
ground on the slope falling away
Further information
to the west looks clear, leave the Maps: OS Explorer
track to drop downhill, turning left OL28 (1:25k)
as the track is met again.
Transport: Dartline
7 SX640878 If you want
to climb Great Nodden,
Coaches bus 118
leave the track on the left to take
01392 872900
an obvious path over the hill, Information:
before re-joining the same track. iOkehampton TIC
Alternatively, you could simply 01837 53020
follow this track, which leads to
10 12
10 Ɨîţăĩĵ/ŏƁţƁĵĜĬåŸ/ŀĘŅƚųŸ
AscentŏƗljƆĵxƑŀăƁüƋ

Hartland to Bude
Devon/Cornwall ENGLAND
Fiona Barltrop
relishes one of the
best coastal walks
in the country
ARDUOUS it may be, but the
15.3-mile stretch of coast path
between Hartland Quay and Bude
is one of the most spectacular
sections of the South West Coast
Path National Trail. The SWCP
Association’s annual guide grades it
‘severe’ with an overall ascent of
Coast Path just south of
Hartland Quay some 4000ft. Indeed, there are ten
steep, deep river valleys to cross
along the way. Nonetheless, any
suitably fit person with plenty of
stamina who takes it in their stride
should enjoy a great day of coastal
walking here. Fine settled weather
makes all the difference, with the
long days of late spring and
summer being the best time for it.
There are buses between Bude
and Hartland village, but no public
transport to Hartland Quay. So
unless you can take a taxi from
Bude (none from Hartland) or two
cars between you and a walking
companion, bear in mind the added
distance, although it is an easy 2.5-
mile walk to the coast and worth
the extra effort to take in this linear
Litter Mouth and
Gull Rock, south of pt 5. route along spectacular coastline.

Stanbury Mouth
seen from the north,
between pts 5 & 6

Sunset near Bude

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 97

 ROUTE
Start B±ųƋĬ±ĹÚÆƚŸŸƋŅŞxŸĘåĬƋåųØ
cŅųƋĘč±Ƌå:ųååĹ :ׄ„ƗăŀƗĊă
Finish: ƚÚåƋŅƵĹÏåĹƋųå
:ׄ„ƗljîljƆĊ
SS259245 From the Hartland
1 bus stop/shelter, turn right
along North Road, which curves left
DQGSDVVHVWKHUHGĆUHVWDWLRQRQWKH
right corner. Continue south along
the road (now North Street). At the
next junction follow the road (now
West Street) round to the right. Keep
ahead at the following junction (road
is signed for Stoke and Hartland
Quay). At the edge of the village
ignore the side road on the right and
continue along the country lane.
Keep straight on at the next junction,
again following signs for Stoke and
Hartland Quay, soon passing a
turning for Hartland Abbey. Keep
ahead through Stoke to the parish
church of St Nectan, known as ‘the
Cathedral of North Devon’ – its
tower is one of the county’s tallest.
2 SS235247 From the far end of
the church continue along the
path that runs parallel to the road on
its north side, rejoining the road just
before a building called the Rocket
House. (Now a holiday rental, it
originally stored the apparatus used
by rescue services, which included a
breeches buoy system, giving it the
name Rocket. To allow the rescue
teams to practice, a mast was situated
RQWKH:DUUHQĆHOGDQGWKHç5RFNHWè
shot at the mast, then the breeches
buoy was set up and used.) Just after
it, continue down the Coast Path
(to the right of the toll road), which
descends to the upper car park, and
thence down to Hartland Quay.
3 SS223247 There’s another car
park and hotel (with bar, shop
and museum) here, a popular spot
with day visitors for its stunning
scenery. The contorted rock layers
:ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå Metres above sea level
150
100
50
0
0 km 5 10
98 The Great Outdoors July 2023
are very striking. Looking north-
north-west, assuming clear
conditions, you can see Lundy island
on the horizon. Built in the late 16th
Century, Hartland Quay was a
thriving port until the pier was
destroyed by storms at the end of
the 19th Century. From the bottom
car park follow the Coast Path sign
for Speke’s Mill. The path, which
passes behind St Catherine’s Tor,
leads to the impressive waterfall
at Speke’s Mill Mouth.
SS226236 Turn inland to
4 cross a footbridge over the
stream, beyond which is a junction
where you can either follow the
valley route or the more dramatic
clifftop path up Swansford Hill –
they join up again south of
Swansford Hill. The next few miles
along the gently undulating clifftop
path are fairly easy going (which
might make you wonder if this walk
is really as demanding as all that...
but be prepared!) Having passed
Embury Beacon (visible remains of
an Iron Age fort) you descend quite
steeply to Welcombe Mouth and
cross the stepping stones over the
river to the car park.
5 SS213179 Now begins the
serious work of the day with
several more steep, deep river
valleys to cross. Having climbed up
from Welcombe Mouth you drop
straight back down again to
Marsland Mouth. On the way down
you’ll pass a stone hut, which was
built by the poet and playwright
Ronald Duncan, and restored by
his daughter after his death. It’s
open to passing walkers – an ideal
spot to take a break and enjoy the
15
Always take a map and compass with you. ©Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19
2
3
1
4
glorious view. Marsland
Mouth marks the boundary
between Devon and Cornwall.
After more ascents and
descents you’ll pass another
much smaller hut, Hawker’s
Hut, on Vicarage Cliff, built
by the eccentric Parson Hawker.
5 Further on, as you near the GCHQ
satellite dishes at Cleave Camp,
watch for the signed right turn
towards the cliff edge. Thereafter
you descend to Duckpool.
6 SS2031167KHĆQDOIHZPLOHV
to Bude are easier going,
especially from the next valley,
Sandy Mouth. At Bude Haven head
inland to the car park and town.
7 SS208064 You have reached
your destination!
Further information
6
Maps: OS Explorers 126
& 111 (1:25k), OS
Landranger 190 (1:50k)
Transport: Go Cornwall
bus service 219 between
Bude (Strand) and Hartland
(Northgate Green); Go Cornwall
bus service 217 between Bude
and Morwenstow (four times
a day, Mon-Fri), about halfway
along, providing option to split
length, taking two days over it
7
Information: Bude TIC
i 01288 354240
visitcornwall.com
20 25
 Coastscript
NOTES FROM
THE EDGE

Wurst-case
scenario
Emma Schroeder says it’s a dog-
eat-dog world on her big walk
around Britain’s coast– especially
when sausages are at stake...

AFTER A COLD, dark winter, springtime could not

be more welcome. The thrift is thriving and the
bluebells are blooming. Spring is a time of growth
and change. The supermarket prices are doing It’s dog eat dog (and
particularly well this year; I’ve never seen them sausage) out there.
JURZVRKLJKVRTXLFNO\b
The weather is all over the place and keeps me on
my toes, from toasty to toe-tally soaked. I’ve had my
pasty legs out in shorts on cloudless mornings, only to
be bundled up in two coats, freezing as the rain lashes
down from dark skies hours later.
Ticks are appearing again. Spiders and slugs venture
up my tent. Bumblebees buzz past. Luckily, I’ll be back
in England before midge season kicks off again in
Scotland. Call me a soft southerner, but one summer
of midges was more than enough for me. I don’t think
I have the mental fortitude to deal with another.
I’m grateful for the lack of deadly wildlife in the UK.
The cliff paths are scary enough without having to
worry about getting gobbled by a bear or half-digested
by a great big python. I’ve seen a few adders but they
haven’t given me grief… unlike man’s best friend.
This may be controversial, but my biggest nuisance
by far has been dogs. Don’t get me wrong, I like dogs. and I was really looking forward to it. He walked off,
,OLNHVHHLQJSURXGOLWWOHGRJVFDUU\LQJELJVWLFNVb,FDQèW “that wet Labrador in tow. Unbelievable. The Labrador looked
keep a straight face when somebody points at their back, licked his lips, and laughed.
polite golden retriever and tells me she’s a bitch. dog smell Sometimes I think my plight would make a good local
But dogs have also given me a lot of hassle whilst QHZVSDSHUSLHFHRQDVORZQHZVGD\ê7LUHGRIKDYLQJ
FDPSLQJ,WJRHVOLNHWKLVTXLFNIRRWVWHSVVQLIĆQJ lingers on KHUVDXVDJHVVQDIćHGE\RSSRUWXQLVWLFSXSV(PPD
a collar jangling, a thump as something collides with 6FKURHGHUWHOOVXVZK\WKLVFRXQWU\èVJRLQJWRWKHGRJVë
my tent, a bark, a nose poking under the porch my never- And then a picture of me looking cross, pointing at an
ćDSPRUHEDUNLQJVRPHERG\VKRXWLQJê0LOR HPSW\PHVVWLQb
*HGGRXWRĆWëPRUHEDUNLQJDQGWKHQSHDFH On many mornings I’ve been woken by the sound
Until Rover or Daisy or Yo-yo come to investigate.
quite-dry of dogs barking. It would make the best alarm clock
Sometimes the dogs are too quick for me and will if you like waking up suddenly and in a panic. Other
steal food from my porch before I have the chance to socks that I candidates for best/worst alarm clock sounds include
defend my resources. Recently, a dog swooped under EDELHVVFUHDPLQJRUVRPHERG\VKRXWLQJê:DNHXS
P\WHQWćDSDQGJXOSHGGRZQRQHRIP\VDXVDJHV optimistically <RXèUHWKHSLORWDQG\RXQHHGWRć\WKHSODQHë
Photo and illustration: Emma Schroeder

LQVHFRQGV$YRLFHVKRXWHGê2KP\JRGGLGKHHDW
DQ\WKLQJ"ë)RUDVHFRQG,WKRXJKWWKLVZRXOGEH
genuine concern over my missing food followed by the
RIIHURIPRQH\IRUDUHSODFHPHQWEUHDNIDVW$ĆYHU
would do it for the inconvenience and distress caused.
ê-XVWRQHRIP\VDXVDJHVë,VDLGSRNLQJP\KHDGRXW
P\WHQWê2K7KDWèVRNWKHQëWKHPDQVDLGDVWKRXJK
that was indeed okay then. It was not okay. I was one
sausage down. It’s not the dog’s dinner, it’s my dinner
,GRQèWNQRZZK\GRJVDOZD\VĆQGPHb%XWWKDWZHW
wash in dog smell lingers on my never-quite-dry socks that I
optimistically wash in campsites from time to time.
campsites 0D\EHWKDWèVZK\GRJVFRPHUXQQLQJWRPHWKHPXG
the sea air, the wet socks. I must smell divine to them.
I’ve always let sleeping dogs lie. I wish they’d return
from time the favour, especially when I’m the one who’s dog tired.
I will doggedly continue my walk and guard my food
to time” more closely in future.

July 2023 The Great Outdoors 99

 Forty spectacular
places to escape it all
and reconnect with nature

Available wherever books are sold, and online at

collins.co.uk/NationalTrust